That is totally a huge part of the issue. I actually upgraded to oxidean 8mm cooling lines throughout, made the return about 2in longer and heating issues are fixed. Great vid thanx brother.
I’m considering increasing the size of the holes in my boat since they are a tad too small. My only concern is with them being larger that water can get in or that the lines could be easily pulled out/move after a crash. Anyone have issues with leaks and if so is a silicone adhesive the solution? Highest temp my ESC has reached was 140 but more cooling is always a plus.
Dude I freaking loved the the video awesome information & thanks for the shout out brother in boats. Very informative. I think I like the white & blue better than the black and red boat
Thank you mate! Like you, just like boating and making vids!! Yes I thought the blue white colour looked fresh on this boat..very marine looking on the water! Love the speed runs you are doing at your new spot! Just a shame the water isnt fresh
I know it's alot of work cleaning and preparing the boat before and after each run. Waiting on a few new lipos to arrive, gonna start going to a new lake here shortly, take a few boats with me to do a weekly speed run day. Should be fun
Yes not keen on salt in my boats really…Love the speed runs tho, as thats my jam. Yes am ordering a few of the 100c packs!! Every time you’ve done a PB in what ever boat it seems these have been the power source!! Hope the new lake is good. I drive and hour and a half to get to the lake near my Dad, buts its a magic spot!
@@marxboatworx can you send me the link you bought your hose so I can get the right size. Everything is standard size at lowes. Thanks and I’m enjoying your videos
@@blanchard899 Yes this is for the stock size tube 6mm outside and 3 mm inside rcboatbitz.com/product/water-tubing-small-213b20/ Or you can up grade to the larger tubing 7mm outside and 4 mm inside diamater rcboatbitz.com/product/water-tubing-large-213b25/ Cheers Mark
@@blanchard899 yes and no. The larger lines will supply more water and quicker to the motor and esc, but the restriction due to the nipples will set the flow. I have heard (but haven’t done this myself) is to remove the nipples and drill them out to increase diameter. If you can find larger inside diameter nipples with the existing thread size..go for it but im not sure that search will be easy. Let me know what you decide and end up doing.
I have a sonicwake V2 and after its maiden run, I take the hatch off and smoke comes out. Electronics weren’t what was smoking, it was the rubber grommet that sits in the stuffing tube by the motor. The grommet is under the plastic mount that helps keep the stuffing tube aligned. Anyways, the grommet melted which is which smoke was produced. I liberally greased the flex shaft with the Included grease before the first run and make sure there was no grease in the collet area on the motor. Any ideas on why this happened??
I have the same issue. Someone who works at my local hobby shop had the same issue as well and ended up replacing that rubber with a piece of heat resistant silicon.
That has to be from excessive vibration somewhere bro. I would bench test and make sure everything is lined up properly and possibly try a diffrent flex cable. If that doesn't work it may be the Teflon liner in the stuffing tube spinning in which you can just take it out and super glue in place. Hope this helps brother.
Before I even did my maiden voyage I noticed the motor did not line up with the end of the flex shaft well and was definitely going to mess up the end of the stuffing tube if I ran it like that, so I would certainly check that, u can see when the flex shaft enters the coupler how much it has to move from center to enter the coupler, I dremeled the motor mount to adjust but I jus saw iron clad simply shim the stuffing tube to change the angle, good luck!
I have many issues with heating mainly my batteries. Yesterdays run I got as hot as 170 on the lipos. They are 9000 and 8000 100c Zeee pack Ec5 connecter. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m at a complete standstill. Motor was around 120 and esc was around 150.
@No Peak what size prop are you running? Stock one? And with the batteries are you running a 9000mAh and an 8000mAh ? what cell count are each of these please?
@@marxboatworx Stock Prop no damage brand new prop too. Everything stock. Zeee batteries 9000 and 8000 both 3s and 100c. So either 2 9000 or 2 8000. I don’t mix. Also the Lipos are brand new.
@No Peak Hmmmm thinking the 2 x large batteries will have some weight to them..2. 9000mAh 3S 100c Zee packs are 560g each..thats 1120g..alot of weight for the boat overcome weight/mass/inertia. The motor will be pulling some juice and in turn the ESC will be pulling huge amps which may be the cause of the resulting heat. I know batteries are expensive. Have you thought about 2 x 5200mAh ..only 250g each. If you have some lighter batteries to experiment with and see what happens to heat with a lighter pay load. Let me know how you go..??
The only thing u needed is a T piece wher u can one water line spring for the esc in two o!!! You can see it in a litle movie of cooling your boot from iron clad rc.the only thing you must change is fixed a tube on one pipe at the esc,use the one that now sitting on your reviver antenna!!!and do the otherside to the other outlet,now u must only your motor tube placing on the other outlet,it’s also handy that u now can see or water streaming about the system,becous one (the old antena hole)go s up so it’s easy to see it works now!!!so your motor has one inlet and your esc has the other!!!realy has done a lot of resurge and this is the best way for cooling!!!becous when you go drilling and the dril is not sharp or wat ever it can destroy your haul,it’s fiberglass so it can cracks an if it cracks you screwed!!!👍hope u take my advice and maby u wil make. A nother video whit the update!!!becous don’t worry I don’t make video s,but when you do this update your temp stay way better!!!(when u drill your garantie fail)
Hi Chris, thank you for your thoughts. I agree the double input line Big B did on Ironclad does work..I will be doing on mine too. This is still separate to the hole size in the transom (BTW these hulls are ABS plastic, not fibreglass). If you don’t drill it out, you still have restricted flow into the boat. As the hole size is only going up by 1mm diameter, the hole is so easy to drill out..so simple. There should be not risk, but great reward! Happy boating
@@marxboatworx hello my rc friend,thank you for the info ,when it is plastic it’s way easy er than fiber glas,becous that’s always a litle bit tricky,so wat you say is when I drill the hole some bigger than u have more better flow in the hosses?!?!ok !!if u say so !!when it necercery I can drill it always!!!but at the moment it has a nice consistent flow,u can see it on top of the hull ,it cools so much better!!!I am happy that u not angry!!!This is also not the goal,but in this hobby ther is always somthing to learn for evry one!!!👍
Thanks for your comment @Ricky’DS Yes, small things like this make a difference, but when your manufacturing, I guess small details cost money. Still an amazing machine though and heaps of fun!!
@@marxboatworx I have a V1 on hold at my LHS. Is it better to upgrade the V1 or the get the V2 you think? I'm trying to find a one boat and done kinda deal. I have many land RCs.
@@jcallesano How much are you looking at the V1 to pay?? I think its worth spending the extra to get the V2. If you get a V1 the price will be better, and by the time you were to spend money upgrading the hardware to get to V2 standard. It would be ‘6 of 1 and half dozen of the other’ The V2 is an amazing boat right out of the box!
@@jcallesano yes so with an upgrade kit rcboatbitz.com/product/sonicwake-complete-hardware-upgrade-kit-red-pb1057k-r/ You will be around the $200. So is the V2 $600 or less?? Answers your question..👍🏻
@@marxboatworx picked up the V2 after work yesterday. White on. Going to go over it today and maybe yesterday's it later on. It's so damn hot out though. 100 today in MA.
Congratulations!! You’ll have a ton of fun with it!! 👍🏻 yes am watching the heat waves you guys have over there atm!! Not good. Very similar to our Australian summers recently😬
Thanks for your comment Jason..not sure of your RC experience, but there are a lot of people who are new to the hobby, and this may be their first boat. They may not understand how / why to do an upgrade like this, so this video gives them knowledge and confidence to drill a hole in their brand new, expensive boat. Thanks for watching!
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
That is totally a huge part of the issue. I actually upgraded to oxidean 8mm cooling lines throughout, made the return about 2in longer and heating issues are fixed. Great vid thanx brother.
Glad the video helped @tripletrc5654 ! Yes the 8mm lines are so good, and that you fixed the heat issue. Thanks for watching!
I’m considering increasing the size of the holes in my boat since they are a tad too small. My only concern is with them being larger that water can get in or that the lines could be easily pulled out/move after a crash. Anyone have issues with leaks and if so is a silicone adhesive the solution? Highest temp my ESC has reached was 140 but more cooling is always a plus.
Dude I freaking loved the the video awesome information & thanks for the shout out brother in boats. Very informative. I think I like the white & blue better than the black and red boat
Thank you mate! Like you, just like boating and making vids!! Yes I thought the blue white colour looked fresh on this boat..very marine looking on the water! Love the speed runs you are doing at your new spot! Just a shame the water isnt fresh
I know it's alot of work cleaning and preparing the boat before and after each run. Waiting on a few new lipos to arrive, gonna start going to a new lake here shortly, take a few boats with me to do a weekly speed run day. Should be fun
Yes not keen on salt in my boats really…Love the speed runs tho, as thats my jam. Yes am ordering a few of the 100c packs!! Every time you’ve done a PB in what ever boat it seems these have been the power source!! Hope the new lake is good. I drive and hour and a half to get to the lake near my Dad, buts its a magic spot!
Great information! My esc and wires were getting extremely hot. I'm sure this will help a bunch. Thanks again for posting. New follower as well
@edgedmax Thank you for watching! Glad it helped!👍🏻
Great video quality and informative info. I smashed the sub button. Shoutout to the Boat Gang!
Thanks George have seen you on IronClad!! Thanks for the sub and the kind words…BG for sure!!
@@marxboatworx can you send me the link you bought your hose so I can get the right size. Everything is standard size at lowes. Thanks and I’m enjoying your videos
@@blanchard899 Yes this is for the stock size tube 6mm outside and 3 mm inside
rcboatbitz.com/product/water-tubing-small-213b20/
Or you can up grade to the larger tubing 7mm outside and 4 mm inside diamater
rcboatbitz.com/product/water-tubing-large-213b25/
Cheers
Mark
@@marxboatworx would I have to upgrade the nipples on the motor and esc?
@@blanchard899 yes and no. The larger lines will supply more water and quicker to the motor and esc, but the restriction due to the nipples will set the flow. I have heard (but haven’t done this myself) is to remove the nipples and drill them out to increase diameter. If you can find larger inside diameter nipples with the existing thread size..go for it but im not sure that search will be easy. Let me know what you decide and end up doing.
I added a T for the cooling on the esc for double cooling, works great!!!
Excellent, saw Big B on Ironclad did that!! Might give it a try..thank you man👍🏻
I have a sonicwake V2 and after its maiden run, I take the hatch off and smoke comes out. Electronics weren’t what was smoking, it was the rubber grommet that sits in the stuffing tube by the motor. The grommet is under the plastic mount that helps keep the stuffing tube aligned. Anyways, the grommet melted which is which smoke was produced. I liberally greased the flex shaft with the Included grease before the first run and make sure there was no grease in the collet area on the motor. Any ideas on why this happened??
I have the same issue. Someone who works at my local hobby shop had the same issue as well and ended up replacing that rubber with a piece of heat resistant silicon.
That has to be from excessive vibration somewhere bro. I would bench test and make sure everything is lined up properly and possibly try a diffrent flex cable. If that doesn't work it may be the Teflon liner in the stuffing tube spinning in which you can just take it out and super glue in place. Hope this helps brother.
Before I even did my maiden voyage I noticed the motor did not line up with the end of the flex shaft well and was definitely going to mess up the end of the stuffing tube if I ran it like that, so I would certainly check that, u can see when the flex shaft enters the coupler how much it has to move from center to enter the coupler, I dremeled the motor mount to adjust but I jus saw iron clad simply shim the stuffing tube to change the angle, good luck!
Thanks for the info my boat hasn't really got hot but will most likely do the upgrade. Peace from the michigan shores of lake erie
Cheers @Robert Bomyea, sound like you have a nice spot for boating brother!
very good i miss you i love speed boat RC
Look at the size of the holes into and out of the ESC way smaller than all others
I have many issues with heating mainly my batteries. Yesterdays run I got as hot as 170 on the lipos. They are 9000 and 8000 100c Zeee pack Ec5 connecter. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m at a complete standstill. Motor was around 120 and esc was around 150.
@No Peak what size prop are you running? Stock one? And with the batteries are you running a 9000mAh and an 8000mAh ? what cell count are each of these please?
@@marxboatworx Stock Prop no damage brand new prop too. Everything stock. Zeee batteries 9000 and 8000 both 3s and 100c. So either 2 9000 or 2 8000. I don’t mix. Also the Lipos are brand new.
@No Peak Hmmmm thinking the 2 x large batteries will have some weight to them..2. 9000mAh 3S 100c Zee packs are 560g each..thats 1120g..alot of weight for the boat overcome weight/mass/inertia. The motor will be pulling some juice and in turn the ESC will be pulling huge amps which may be the cause of the resulting heat. I know batteries are expensive. Have you thought about 2 x 5200mAh ..only 250g each. If you have some lighter batteries to experiment with and see what happens to heat with a lighter pay load. Let me know how you go..??
@@marxboatworx Honestly I’m returning both 8000 and 9000 zeee battery’s and probably going with a Gens ace basher 6700 6s pack.
@No Peak Yeah ok, still a bit of weight at 961g. Let me know how you go and what temps are like with new battery. Be very interested to hear..👍🏻
The only thing u needed is a T piece wher u can one water line spring for the esc in two o!!! You can see it in a litle movie of cooling your boot from iron clad rc.the only thing you must change is fixed a tube on one pipe at the esc,use the one that now sitting on your reviver antenna!!!and do the otherside to the other outlet,now u must only your motor tube placing on the other outlet,it’s also handy that u now can see or water streaming about the system,becous one (the old antena hole)go s up so it’s easy to see it works now!!!so your motor has one inlet and your esc has the other!!!realy has done a lot of resurge and this is the best way for cooling!!!becous when you go drilling and the dril is not sharp or wat ever it can destroy your haul,it’s fiberglass so it can cracks an if it cracks you screwed!!!👍hope u take my advice and maby u wil make. A nother video whit the update!!!becous don’t worry I don’t make video s,but when you do this update your temp stay way better!!!(when u drill your garantie fail)
Hi Chris, thank you for your thoughts. I agree the double input line Big B did on Ironclad does work..I will be doing on mine too. This is still separate to the hole size in the transom (BTW these hulls are ABS plastic, not fibreglass). If you don’t drill it out, you still have restricted flow into the boat. As the hole size is only going up by 1mm diameter, the hole is so easy to drill out..so simple. There should be not risk, but great reward!
Happy boating
@@marxboatworx hello my rc friend,thank you for the info ,when it is plastic it’s way easy er than fiber glas,becous that’s always a litle bit tricky,so wat you say is when I drill the hole some bigger than u have more better flow in the hosses?!?!ok !!if u say so !!when it necercery I can drill it always!!!but at the moment it has a nice consistent flow,u can see it on top of the hull ,it cools so much better!!!I am happy that u not angry!!!This is also not the goal,but in this hobby ther is always somthing to learn for evry one!!!👍
nice video
Thank you!👍🏻
It sounds like they did not do hardly any R&D on the V2 sonic Wake boat WTH !!!!!!!
Thanks for your comment @Ricky’DS Yes, small things like this make a difference, but when your manufacturing, I guess small details cost money. Still an amazing machine though and heaps of fun!!
@@marxboatworx I have a V1 on hold at my LHS. Is it better to upgrade the V1 or the get the V2 you think? I'm trying to find a one boat and done kinda deal. I have many land RCs.
@@jcallesano How much are you looking at the V1 to pay?? I think its worth spending the extra to get the V2. If you get a V1 the price will be better, and by the time you were to spend money upgrading the hardware to get to V2 standard. It would be ‘6 of 1 and half dozen of the other’ The V2 is an amazing boat right out of the box!
@@marxboatworx I think it it's 399 for te V1
@@jcallesano yes so with an upgrade kit
rcboatbitz.com/product/sonicwake-complete-hardware-upgrade-kit-red-pb1057k-r/
You will be around the $200. So is the V2 $600 or less?? Answers your question..👍🏻
I just did my second run. I noticed the same thing.
Get this V2 or the Impulse? GO!
Id go the V2..a good all around fun fast boat. Then go the impulse
@@marxboatworx picked up the V2 after work yesterday. White on. Going to go over it today and maybe yesterday's it later on. It's so damn hot out though. 100 today in MA.
Congratulations!! You’ll have a ton of fun with it!! 👍🏻 yes am watching the heat waves you guys have over there atm!! Not good. Very similar to our Australian summers recently😬
Impulse does not self-right. If you ask me that is a mandatory feature as it will flip just from its own power let alone waves and wind.
Just upgrade your ESC to the Spectrum 160. Problem solved.
Yes mate, easy fix there..fun trying to make things work over and above factory though!! Thanks for watching!
Easy, yes. Expensive, also yes.
This is a loooong ass winded way of saying "Does your RC boat overheat? Drill a bigger hole for the cooling tube"
Thanks for your comment Jason..not sure of your RC experience, but there are a lot of people who are new to the hobby, and this may be their first boat. They may not understand how / why to do an upgrade like this, so this video gives them knowledge and confidence to drill a hole in their brand new, expensive boat. Thanks for watching!
People don’t drill in your haul,if you do it wrong it’s done,I have a better solution!!!!
Yeah mate what’s your solution? Been waiting pins and needles here