Just did these on my 2007 Eos (2.0TFSI - manual) What a difference. Night and day. This and many other of your videos helped me throughout all these projects/ upgrades. Thank you for all you do.
Very nicely done, process is the same for the 1..8t engine mounts on my mk1 TT. Vw original mounts are 511 (eng) and 111 eur (transmission) lol. Buy aftermarket of course. Febi is the OEM manufacturer.
I have replaced many engine mounts on a variety of cars. Cheap mounts never last, and I have even encountered ones that failed while still wrapped up in the original package. Sometimes they don't line up correctly because they are built to some pretty pathetic tolerances. If you ever need to replace engine mounts on a car, no matter what car you own, use only OEM, OES, or purpose built racing mounts. The money you might save on cheap mounts is not worth the extra labor you will be spending on those mounts. The advice for this special mount is great. I usually worked on American and Japanese cars, and they have far fewer quirks with repairs. This is why I recommend Honda and Toyota to people who aren't car enthusiasts. I'm willing to accept the extra costs of owning a German car since I do everything myself, however, I intend to buy an Evo X. There will never be another Mitsubishi Evo, so I never have to think "Damn, I wish I could afford the newest variant" every 3 years or so. This is why I will take an Evo X over a Subaru rally car or VW Golf R.
I remember that mine engine side engine mount was so tired, that the inner part was totally loose i could take it out :D One important note, the VW/Audi service manual says to replace the bolts
Great video. For what it is worth, the Bentley manual does not indicate the smaller 13mm bolt on the Trans mount is not a torque to yield. It just indicates it is Torqued to 18 Ft-Lbs. Unlike the 16mm bolts that are torqued to 30 ft-lbs plus an extra 90 degree turn.
Perfect timing guys Thank You. My son and I recently did the the clutch on the GTI and yup, should have done those mounts. This weekend we are gonna sneak back in there and change em' out.
@@HumbleMechanic I like visiting the cute girls at the Dealership anyway. Buying replacement bolts everytime we wrench on something. We joke all the time saying "can we Recycle" all this old metal hardware somewhere for some bucks back....
Great video love all your stuff that applies to my jetta mk5. I cant wait to see how to do the rear dog bone because there aren't any videos as good as yours out there on how to do it, so I have been procrastinating it for the longest time. Thank you again for all your helpful videos keep it up.
I always like watching your videos makes me want to get back out and work on my projects. :) A bit of a side note I find interesting and maybe you will too, typical oems for cheapness including parts manufacturers use cheap rubber materials with a typical tuned mass system to try and reduce vibrations. Its the wrong material for the job, the are materials like some engineered urethanes that have purpose built characteristic of absorbing vibrational energy and turning it into heat. Yes rubber does this some but kinda poor it transfers the energy into the mount and they add stiffness to the mount to try and hold the engine in place better for race applications. These above engineered materials can be pretty stiff and yet transfer verry little vibration through. It sucks that aftermarket urethane mount manufacturers havn't yet taken advantage of these materials.
hey thanks for the video. i have a 2014 vw passat tdi sel has 190k im looking over videos on changing out the mounts and was wondering is the gap revalant on my car as well like the same? gap A-14mm and B-10mm? first time doing maintance on this, would you recomment swapping out control arm bushings while i have everything off ? or wait? as far as control arms just do visual inspection then go from there? thats what i was thinking any advice is greatly appreciated
Great video, I have these mounts and absolutely love them. We’re actually very fortunate to have a sport rubber mount as most aftermarket are poly (and poly is fine, just not for engine/transmission mounting imo).
What about the subframe bushings (lower engine mount)? I'm having a heck of time finding anywhere that can do it or to even find a tool to have a little diy. I've already done the rest of the front end, but I can't get these lower mounts out or in. ...or should I just buy an insert and call it a day?
Question so the 13mm bolt that goes on the back side of the transmission to the frame. So i went to replace the mounts on a mk4 gti I recently bought. And the 13mm hole was fallen thru, the previous owner drilled a hole from the bottom to be able to feed a bolt up to put a bolt on it. It's there anyway I can fix this?
Hey I replaced all 3 mounts in my 2001 golf. Old ones were original. I used new stretch bolts n torqued them to spec. I took note of the proper position of them and made sure to put all bolts in by hand till they were seated. I now have a slight vibration in my steering wheel at idle n when I drive. Should I mess with them or leave as is. I don’t wanna loosed the new bolts to re adjust. Thx in advance
@@bobomomo3764 Hey I still have the vibration. Can’t say if it has gotten better. Maybe a little if any. I wouldn’t try and adjust anything since I bought new stretch or torque to yield bolts. Once u loosen then your “ supposed” to replace them. Since it’s a 21 yr old work car I’m fine with the vibration. It’s been 5 months. Maybe more time needs to pass and they’ll break in? A mechanic said give it a few thousand miles which have passed to time will tell
I have a question - the little rear triangle tab that a 13mm bolt goes through on the transmission mount and then bolts to the inside chassis - is this an integral / load bearing part? I ask because while refreshing my mounts I managed to snap the rear triangle tab in half and there isn't enough left to get the bolt snugged back down. My thoughts are that this is more of a locating bolt/tab and it doesn't take any real weight - am I ok leaving this bolt out? Thanks in advance!
I have one more question if you get a chance, the mounts came in today and the engine motor seems pretty stiff compared to the transmission mount is that normal
great video! i followed your directions and the passenger side on my 2004 1.8T went smoothly. i just started the driver's side, and ran into a problem. the forward bolt on the engine was a bear to remove, even after squirting some oil down in there. after i finally got it out, the top of the threads have what looks like rust on them, and the lower half of the threads are filled with aluminum. did i mess something up, or did the installer before me cross-thread the bolt? what is the best course of action now?
@@HumbleMechanic I ended up rethreading it for 1/2"-13 and installed a grade 8 bolt. i replaced all three mounts, the engine side being the most worn out, but my engine still wobbles pretty badly under load- both when accelerating and, to a lesser degree, when engine braking in gear down a hill. when in neutral or with the clutch in, there is no vibration/wobble. any suggestions? i have to get the car back on the road to drive 2k miles to my dauhhter's wedding at the end of the month. thank you!
Can these mounts be the issue if my 07 jetta vibrates/grinds a lot while rolling(I don't have to be in a gear to make it happen) but when I'm not moving there is no vibration/grind. You can feel it a lot from 0-30 and then very prominently at 60mph at 2500rpms only. Any less then 60 or any more and it fades away in 1 or 2 mph. 3 shops can't diagnose it even With driving it.
Hi Charles, awesome video. I watched it all the way through multiple times over to replace the mounts on my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T Wagon. I managed to get all the mounts in without issue for the most part. However, the transmission mount in the engine bay was askew by 4mm. I have a subtle, consistent vibration when I take off from a stop that disappears around 2500RPM. I’m wondering if this could be related to the mount being off-center? Awesome videos, I enjoy watching!
Done mine, though having basically a Golf 1 makes it easier, just have to undo starter to get the new one in. Just have to do the transmission one to finish it, but they were not worn, just 18 year old rubber. Cheap as well, and work well enough being "second source", and funny enough the agents also use them as well.
@@HumbleMechanic 034, Vibra Technics, VF Engineering, Black Forest, ECS Tuning Anything but Stock will due, engine just dancing in the bay!!! Stay put dammit lol I like what you have done with your R!!! Very tasteful Mods🧐 I'd say Vibra over all the other Aftermarket mounts due to them being Rubber vs. Poly not a fan of Poly. 2 each his own
I am feeling weird about this video. We are coming down to the last of the modification videos. Still a few things I want to do, but getting to the end. Now I am bummed. Any advice on getting past it? ;)
Charles. I have a 2011 Golf TDi with a pretty bad shimmy/vibration seems to be only when accelerating and most felt at 45 to 60 MPH. I just replaced a worn passenger side front wheel bearing hoping that would fix it. But no same issue. I noticed both of my engine mounts are sagging using a mirror and flashlight. There is a large gap between the top of the rubber and the aluminum mount housing itself like yours in this video. Could that be causing my shudder/shimmy or do I have a drivetrain problem. My CV boots are all good. Thanks!
HumbleMechanic I checked for play on the inner side. Just a little more play on the passenger side which also had the bad wheel bearing. But the play doesnt seem terrible. I think if I rotate the axle I could possible get more or less play though. Maybe its worth checking again.
the 1.9 t d i be careful on the passenger and look at the mount it might look the same but the center at the bottom is critical match the mount especially the Length and Hight
Great vidéo, a lot of ressources speak of 60 Nm instead of 100 Nm for the big bolts, i must replace the right engine mount on a mk5 GTI and i am confused. Chears from France !
Fun fact, our holden commodore’s here in Australia, if they have worn engine mounts, the sump sits on the subframe and actually runs through the sump if left too long.
Hey Charles, Great video(s). The clarity of your tutorials is refreshing. One tangential question, if you have time to respond regarding the dieselgeek skid plate; Did you notice any apparent under chassis air flow improvements with it? Thanks, RP
I recently bought a 2004 VW Jetta Automatic Trans. 1.9 TDI Wagon with 99,000 miles on it. It has Low oil Pressure warning light and alert.. Previous owner Replaced Oil Pump and oil Sensor. I also notice a lot of Exhaust smoke when I do start it up. Any ideas where I might start looking for a cure to this problem ?
Once again, great video. One question though. Isn't that mark on top of the transmission mount used for alignment? I noticed that the engine mount didn't have that mark. I myself don't know either way because I am only a backyard mechanic. Thanks.
Is it better to remove the Dog Bone before you are replacing the Upper Mount to have more freedom to move the engine? 2003 Chevy Cavalier. Thank you for the detailed and very professional film.
Thank you for the replay and attention to my question. You are absolutely right. What I did, I released the front part of that Dog Bone, removed front bolt. Then replaced the top Upper mount (I moved it around w/Dowel to put back a new one, it moved very easy, bcs that bottom Bone was released). Then, when I torqued the top Mount, I removed completely and replaced the Dog Bone for a new. To put the rare bolt in place you need to pry the Bone to the rare via a hole and against the Oil Pan, if smb needs it. Thank you again.
@@olenaerhardt7725 🤦🏼♂️😂 I found out it doesn’t actually matter while doing this last night . Next up is the subframe , cvs , and steering rack . Sorry for the late replay , I was out at the store getting cigarettes and Milk . … 😂
@@the_hat_on_the_cat4897 I disconnected though, the engine was moving very easily after that (I used Dowel) to set it for the bolts to be attached. Maybe it would move without that disconnection, but I replaced that Dog Bone as well. There will be problem to put it back, unless you use the pry bar via the hole and pressing at the oil pan, and moving the Bone backward for the rear bolt to fit. Otherwise easy. If someone needs.
@@the_hat_on_the_cat4897 I disconnected though, the engine was moving very easily after that (I used Dowel) to set it for the bolts to be attached. Maybe it would move without that disconnection, but I replaced that Dog Bone as well. There will be problem to put it back, unless you use the pry bar via the hole and pressing at the oil pan, and moving the Bone backward for the rear bolt to fit. Otherwise easy. If someone needs.
I just replaced mine, for the first time, with a timing belt service. It had juuuust short of 215k miles. It had sagged down about an inch, and to the rear about half an inch.
could I take out the transmission mounting bracket out?? I’ve broken the 2 bolts that go down from the top of the transmission mount, and broken them INSIDE the transmission bracket below it. I tried re tapping it I’ve tried easy out and I’m done xD can I just take out that bracket that the bolts go into??????
I thought you werent suppose to lift engine from oil pan or transmission pan? Can anyone answer that? About to do the transmission mount on a highlander
@@HumbleMechanic the problem is I'm not sure when it's due and the belt doesn't look too bad, I dont think.. but im not sure what a new belt and old one looks like as I've only recently got into car stuff. If I mark spots, is timing belt fairly straight forward?
Charles, should the R32 engine appear to sit a little higher on the passenger side than the driver side? New mounts didn't seem to change the angle. I had no idea about the engine alignment. I just slapped in my new (034) mounts a few years back. I may go check that alignment now.
hey man awesome vid. I have a mk4 golf with the 2.slow engine in it., do you recommend swapping engine? or turbo charging that 2.0, after rebulding it with more compression and bigger pistons and all that? or just get an r32 and save on headache and money?
Basically the car makes a clunking noise only in reverse drive and sometimes neutral otherwise it drives perfectly fine changes gears perfect doesn’t slip or mis gears …. Do you think it could be driveshaft issue? Because once its into reverse or drive and sometimes in park … its fine and in neutral it makes the noise for literally 5-10 seconds max then goes back too normal bro … could it be damaged driveshaft causing that and the fault code?? I did have a error code saying unexpected gear disengagement but since cleared that hasnt come back up…. What do u think is the issue????
this video would have been helpful a year ago. my 18mm bolts snapped in half one night and I supported the engine with a jack and wood. I ended up finding stronger rated bolts at the hardware store didn't know I needed to align it up I just hand tightened it down and had a shop torque it down.
Step one should be disconnect battery. I learned the hard way when I fried two o2 sensors when my wrench hit the alternator and grounded to the motor mount.
Reminds me of when they put the fng on the commercial line at AAP..."why is this guy at Firestone asking for a dog bone? We ain't a pet store!"...fun times at the parts counter.
My 08 Jetta alarm keeps going off by it self. I thought you would be the right person to ask. It’s pissing off my neighbors in my apartment complex🤦🏻♂️ Any advice would be great thank you bro. It just started happening. I changed the key fob battery and it’s still doing it. I would hate to have to go to a shop for a diagnosis.
It’s probably one of the door latches failing. Which one? That’s the question. You can check to see which one maybe doesn’t lock. You can also look at alarm sources in the scan tool. Paying for diagnosis isn’t fun. But it is probably cheaper than throwing parts at it .
Doyou still have these installed in the blue R32? Would you recommend these? What made you chose 034? Need new mounts for my Mkv. I’ll see you in April my friend!
@@HumbleMechanic rock on. I’ve heard differing opinions on the 034 stuff(not just the mounts) from our community. But I figured if you use em they can be that bad, or maybe your sponsored by them and have too(though I don’t think that’s the case). Love your stuff, and you as a person. Keep it up my dude
Nice! How can you tell when you need new mounts? Is there a sound? Does it feel different on a manual vs an auto? TDI vs gasser? Thanks as always for the tut, Charles!
Hi Charles, could you perhaps do a video on front cv axles replacement on a mk4 R32? I am doing a cv boot change on mine soon and cannot find the torque spec's for the installation gearbox side and wheel hub side. Much appreciated. BTW, i'm a big fan of your videos and that beautiful blue R32.
I have one more question if you get a chance, the mounts came in today and the engine motor seems pretty stiff compared to the transmission mount is that normal
Haha, i just did the same job also with anti-seize. Turned out it didnt need engine mounts and all the bolts where just loose :-/ Cleaned out the holes with break clean and compressed air then used orange thread lock ;-)
These are the very best DIY videos I have ever seen.
Thank you.
Just did these on my 2007 Eos (2.0TFSI - manual) What a difference. Night and day. This and many other of your videos helped me throughout all these projects/ upgrades. Thank you for all you do.
The track density mounts aren’t bad in the VR6. 034 will tell you this as well since it’s balanced much better than the 4 cyl.
My mounts were bad and it gave a knocking sound while driving. I could believe that they would have knocked so badly. Nice vid.
Great video, took all the scary out of changing mounts!
Very nicely done, process is the same for the 1..8t engine mounts on my mk1 TT. Vw original mounts are 511 (eng) and 111 eur (transmission) lol. Buy aftermarket of course. Febi is the OEM manufacturer.
I have replaced many engine mounts on a variety of cars. Cheap mounts never last, and I have even encountered ones that failed while still wrapped up in the original package. Sometimes they don't line up correctly because they are built to some pretty pathetic tolerances. If you ever need to replace engine mounts on a car, no matter what car you own, use only OEM, OES, or purpose built racing mounts. The money you might save on cheap mounts is not worth the extra labor you will be spending on those mounts.
The advice for this special mount is great. I usually worked on American and Japanese cars, and they have far fewer quirks with repairs. This is why I recommend Honda and Toyota to people who aren't car enthusiasts.
I'm willing to accept the extra costs of owning a German car since I do everything myself, however, I intend to buy an Evo X. There will never be another Mitsubishi Evo, so I never have to think "Damn, I wish I could afford the newest variant" every 3 years or so. This is why I will take an Evo X over a Subaru rally car or VW Golf R.
I remember that mine engine side engine mount was so tired, that the inner part was totally loose i could take it out :D One important note, the VW/Audi service manual says to replace the bolts
Where can I get the Vw service manual?
Great video. For what it is worth, the Bentley manual does not indicate the smaller 13mm bolt on the Trans mount is not a torque to yield. It just indicates it is Torqued to 18 Ft-Lbs. Unlike the 16mm bolts that are torqued to 30 ft-lbs plus an extra 90 degree turn.
replaced mine today with the help of this video, thanks Charles !
Awesome
Your videos are so helpful, I just changed my mk4 golf engine mount today, thankss!!
Perfect timing guys Thank You. My son and I recently did the the clutch on the GTI and yup, should have done those mounts. This weekend we are gonna sneak back in there and change em' out.
Nice!
@@HumbleMechanic I like visiting the cute girls at the Dealership anyway. Buying replacement bolts everytime we wrench on something. We joke all the time saying "can we Recycle" all this old metal hardware somewhere for some bucks back....
Great video love all your stuff that applies to my jetta mk5. I cant wait to see how to do the rear dog bone because there aren't any videos as good as yours out there on how to do it, so I have been procrastinating it for the longest time. Thank you again for all your helpful videos keep it up.
6:54 Hello. Is this valid for all MK4? I have a TDI with an ASV engine.
I always like watching your videos makes me want to get back out and work on my projects. :) A bit of a side note I find interesting and maybe you will too, typical oems for cheapness including parts manufacturers use cheap rubber materials with a typical tuned mass system to try and reduce vibrations. Its the wrong material for the job, the are materials like some engineered urethanes that have purpose built characteristic of absorbing vibrational energy and turning it into heat. Yes rubber does this some but kinda poor it transfers the energy into the mount and they add stiffness to the mount to try and hold the engine in place better for race applications. These above engineered materials can be pretty stiff and yet transfer verry little vibration through. It sucks that aftermarket urethane mount manufacturers havn't yet taken advantage of these materials.
Great timing! The motor mount on my Mk4 Jetta seems to be getting loose. Looks like a pretty straightforward job.
Very much so. Especially the engine side.
hey thanks for the video. i have a 2014 vw passat tdi sel has 190k im looking over videos on changing out the mounts and was wondering is the gap revalant on my car as well like the same? gap A-14mm and B-10mm? first time doing maintance on this, would you recomment swapping out control arm bushings while i have everything off ? or wait? as far as control arms just do visual inspection then go from there? thats what i was thinking any advice is greatly appreciated
what about bolt sizes or part number to replace them ??. I would really appreciate your help with that , please
Figure that out on your own don't be lazy
I called vw and gave them the part number for each mount and they were able to send me an email with all of the bolt part numbers
FYI, ECS Tunning sells a complete bolt kit for the VR6 and 1.8T
ECS-ES#:2535485
VW-MK4DM-BOLTSFULL
Great video, I have these mounts and absolutely love them. We’re actually very fortunate to have a sport rubber mount as most aftermarket are poly (and poly is fine, just not for engine/transmission mounting imo).
What about the subframe bushings (lower engine mount)? I'm having a heck of time finding anywhere that can do it or to even find a tool to have a little diy. I've already done the rest of the front end, but I can't get these lower mounts out or in. ...or should I just buy an insert and call it a day?
Question so the 13mm bolt that goes on the back side of the transmission to the frame. So i went to replace the mounts on a mk4 gti I recently bought. And the 13mm hole was fallen thru, the previous owner drilled a hole from the bottom to be able to feed a bolt up to put a bolt on it. It's there anyway I can fix this?
Hey I replaced all 3 mounts in my 2001 golf. Old ones were original. I used new stretch bolts n torqued them to spec. I took note of the proper position of them and made sure to put all bolts in by hand till they were seated. I now have a slight vibration in my steering wheel at idle n when I drive. Should I mess with them or leave as is. I don’t wanna loosed the new bolts to re adjust. Thx in advance
How did you fix the issue?
I'm having a similar issue, new vibration appeared after replacing all mounts 😕
@@bobomomo3764 Hey I still have the vibration. Can’t say if it has gotten better. Maybe a little if any. I wouldn’t try and adjust anything since I bought new stretch or torque to yield bolts. Once u loosen then your “ supposed” to replace them. Since it’s a 21 yr old work car I’m fine with the vibration. It’s been 5 months. Maybe more time needs to pass and they’ll break in? A mechanic said give it a few thousand miles which have passed to time will tell
Is this the same procedure for a 2010, VW Jetta 2.5 with automatic DSG trans? MK5. Thanks
Is it the same space/measurements when aligning the mount on an vw r32 mk5? or a3 3.2?
I have a question - the little rear triangle tab that a 13mm bolt goes through on the transmission mount and then bolts to the inside chassis - is this an integral / load bearing part? I ask because while refreshing my mounts I managed to snap the rear triangle tab in half and there isn't enough left to get the bolt snugged back down.
My thoughts are that this is more of a locating bolt/tab and it doesn't take any real weight - am I ok leaving this bolt out? Thanks in advance!
I have one more question if you get a chance, the mounts came in today and the engine motor seems pretty stiff compared to the transmission mount is that normal
Incredibly helpful video. Thank you both so much.
Just what I was looking for ! Thank you very much!
Any tips for loosening a stuck trans mount bolt on the mk4 platform?
This is a great video. Very well explained. I just have a quick question: Would you recommend putting anti-seize on the new bolts?
Use Loctite.
Great video mate I tough it was very difficult to do it and most mechanics charge a fortune to do it, all I need is the 🛠🤦🏽♂️😂
Great video, does the gap to align the mount also apply to an Audi A3 2006, 8P??
You will want to confirm in the repair manual. The key is making sure the mount is even
HumbleMechanic thanks a lot charles!!!
Is there a big difference between installing engine mounts on the MK4 R32 and MK4 ALH?
Not really. ALH has more room lol
going to be doing a new trans mount on a 2013 passat tdi are the torque specs and the same as this? Thanks love the channel
They probably are. But you want to confirm with the repair manual.
Would these torque specs be the same when installing factory engine mounts?
Doing my mounts on my 2005 GTI 1.8 T and was watching your video as wondering where I can get that metal skid plate
great video! i followed your directions and the passenger side on my 2004 1.8T went smoothly. i just started the driver's side, and ran into a problem. the forward bolt on the engine was a bear to remove, even after squirting some oil down in there. after i finally got it out, the top of the threads have what looks like rust on them, and the lower half of the threads are filled with aluminum. did i mess something up, or did the installer before me cross-thread the bolt? what is the best course of action now?
You may need to replace the bracket or have the threads repaired. Something like a. timesert or helicoil may be in order.
@@HumbleMechanic I ended up rethreading it for 1/2"-13 and installed a grade 8 bolt. i replaced all three mounts, the engine side being the most worn out, but my engine still wobbles pretty badly under load- both when accelerating and, to a lesser degree, when engine braking in gear down a hill. when in neutral or with the clutch in, there is no vibration/wobble. any suggestions? i have to get the car back on the road to drive 2k miles to my dauhhter's wedding at the end of the month. thank you!
Can these mounts be the issue if my 07 jetta vibrates/grinds a lot while rolling(I don't have to be in a gear to make it happen) but when I'm not moving there is no vibration/grind. You can feel it a lot from 0-30 and then very prominently at 60mph at 2500rpms only. Any less then 60 or any more and it fades away in 1 or 2 mph. 3 shops can't diagnose it even With driving it.
Thanks for the video. Did you end up putting the dogbone mount on ?
After lot of search I found exact required vedio for my SKODA OCTAVIA MK1
Hey so I have a Jetta mk6 2012 it’s really low to the ground I was wondering if they say any engine mount spacers so my engine can sit higher
Charles, an even better way would be to "jack up" the number plates, & replace what is between them!!! hahahaha!! Those are fun to do!!
Hi Charles, awesome video. I watched it all the way through multiple times over to replace the mounts on my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T Wagon. I managed to get all the mounts in without issue for the most part. However, the transmission mount in the engine bay was askew by 4mm. I have a subtle, consistent vibration when I take off from a stop that disappears around 2500RPM. I’m wondering if this could be related to the mount being off-center? Awesome videos, I enjoy watching!
They are also Corteco mounts. Probably doesn’t matter but figured I’d throw that in there
Done mine, though having basically a Golf 1 makes it easier, just have to undo starter to get the new one in. Just have to do the transmission one to finish it, but they were not worn, just 18 year old rubber. Cheap as well, and work well enough being "second source", and funny enough the agents also use them as well.
Great DIY video... now about those Stock mounts HELL NO!
Vibra Technics😀
I have heard great things about 034, and Vibra. I wanted to see for myself how they behave.
@@HumbleMechanic 034, Vibra Technics, VF Engineering, Black Forest, ECS Tuning
Anything but Stock will due, engine just dancing in the bay!!! Stay put dammit lol
I like what you have done with your R!!! Very tasteful Mods🧐
I'd say Vibra over all the other Aftermarket mounts due to them being Rubber vs. Poly not a fan of Poly.
2 each his own
@@hapjoy16 034 are rubber as well
Would these torque specs and alignments be similar or close for a 2018 Audi S3? I'm having trouble finding exact matches for my car!
Probably similar
Does the same apply to the mkv r32 also how do you get to the second engine mount?
I went with a rubber set for around $150, wish me luck!!
Great video, anybody knows these fitt a eu modell? Or is there also a eu manufactuor that makes stuff like this?
I assume that this procedure also applies to the MK1 Audi TT since it has the same mounts in the exact same locations?
id like to know this as well... for a 1.8t
which size 3/8 extension ratchet you use on this video ? (18 - 24 - 30 inch extension ???)
Thanks for your help
any answer please ?
I am feeling weird about this video. We are coming down to the last of the modification videos. Still a few things I want to do, but getting to the end. Now I am bummed. Any advice on getting past it? ;)
It's definitely time you import an euro diesel and modify it :) 1.9 are well known for their abilities. Thanks for the great video!
Build a tow that is a boat and a solar source. Make the boat clear so light gets through.
Time for another car I guess 🤠
Stay tuned :P
Have a lottery on your web site. Winner donates his car for a modification or upgrade of the month.
Charles. I have a 2011 Golf TDi with a pretty bad shimmy/vibration seems to be only when accelerating and most felt at 45 to 60 MPH. I just replaced a worn passenger side front wheel bearing hoping that would fix it. But no same issue. I noticed both of my engine mounts are sagging using a mirror and flashlight. There is a large gap between the top of the rubber and the aluminum mount housing itself like yours in this video. Could that be causing my shudder/shimmy or do I have a drivetrain problem. My CV boots are all good. Thanks!
It could. Could also be an inner joint issue
HumbleMechanic ok thanks. I have suspected the axle. Just not sure which one. Any way to tell if the boots arent worn?
HumbleMechanic I checked for play on the inner side. Just a little more play on the passenger side which also had the bad wheel bearing. But the play doesnt seem terrible. I think if I rotate the axle I could possible get more or less play though. Maybe its worth checking again.
Can you give me the part number for engine to body bracket please? And is it work with 1.9tdi engines? Thanks in advance!
the 1.9 t d i be careful on the passenger and look at the mount it might look the same but the center at the bottom is critical match the mount especially the Length and Hight
LOVE THAT SAUND R32 😍😊❤️VW
Great stuff Charles. Thanks for the information.
which size 3/8 extension ratchet you use on this video ? (18 - 24 - 30 inch extension ???)
Great vidéo, a lot of ressources speak of 60 Nm instead of 100 Nm for the big bolts, i must replace the right engine mount on a mk5 GTI and i am confused.
Chears from France !
Hey!! Great job man!
now is the mesurments for the mounts the same on my 05 gli 1.8 t o2m 6 spd car
should be basically the same
Fun fact, our holden commodore’s here in Australia, if they have worn engine mounts, the sump sits on the subframe and actually runs through the sump if left too long.
Damn!!!!
Nicely done and very helpful, nice video Charles.
Thanks
Hey Charles, Great video(s). The clarity of your tutorials is refreshing. One tangential question, if you have time to respond regarding the dieselgeek skid plate; Did you notice any apparent under chassis air flow improvements with it? Thanks, RP
Thank you!!!
I haven’t noticed anything really. Other than an extra step changing oil 😂
chicago docket 22ds17751m
I recently bought a 2004 VW Jetta Automatic Trans. 1.9 TDI Wagon with 99,000 miles on it. It has Low oil Pressure warning light and alert.. Previous owner Replaced Oil Pump and oil Sensor. I also notice a lot of Exhaust smoke when I do start it up.
Any ideas where I might start looking for a cure to this problem ?
Once again, great video.
One question though. Isn't that mark on top of the transmission mount used for alignment? I noticed that the engine mount didn't have that mark. I myself don't know either way because I am only a backyard mechanic.
Thanks.
Is it better to remove the Dog Bone before you are replacing the Upper Mount to have more freedom to move the engine? 2003 Chevy Cavalier. Thank you for the detailed and very professional film.
My personal completely unprofessional opinion is yes . I’d do the dog bone first .
Thank you for the replay and attention to my question. You are absolutely right. What I did, I released the front part of that Dog Bone, removed front bolt. Then replaced the top Upper mount (I moved it around w/Dowel to put back a new one, it moved very easy, bcs that bottom Bone was released). Then, when I torqued the top Mount, I removed completely and replaced the Dog Bone for a new. To put the rare bolt in place you need to pry the Bone to the rare via a hole and against the Oil Pan, if smb needs it. Thank you again.
@@olenaerhardt7725 🤦🏼♂️😂 I found out it doesn’t actually matter while doing this last night . Next up is the subframe , cvs , and steering rack . Sorry for the late replay , I was out at the store getting cigarettes and Milk . … 😂
@@the_hat_on_the_cat4897 I disconnected though, the engine was moving very easily after that (I used Dowel) to set it for the bolts to be attached. Maybe it would move without that disconnection, but I replaced that Dog Bone as well. There will be problem to put it back, unless you use the pry bar via the hole and pressing at the oil pan, and moving the Bone backward for the rear bolt to fit. Otherwise easy. If someone needs.
@@the_hat_on_the_cat4897 I disconnected though, the engine was moving very easily after that (I used Dowel) to set it for the bolts to be attached. Maybe it would move without that disconnection, but I replaced that Dog Bone as well. There will be problem to put it back, unless you use the pry bar via the hole and pressing at the oil pan, and moving the Bone backward for the rear bolt to fit. Otherwise easy. If someone needs.
I just replaced mine, for the first time, with a timing belt service. It had juuuust short of 215k miles. It had sagged down about an inch, and to the rear about half an inch.
could I take out the transmission mounting bracket out?? I’ve broken the 2 bolts that go down from the top of the transmission mount, and broken them INSIDE the transmission bracket below it. I tried re tapping it I’ve tried easy out and I’m done xD can I just take out that bracket that the bolts go into??????
I thought you werent suppose to lift engine from oil pan or transmission pan? Can anyone answer that? About to do the transmission mount on a highlander
I have a small problem with the linkage gear golf 4 S R
Would it be advisable to do the timing belt (and water pump, etc) while doing the engine mount while it's off on a mk5?
It does overlap. So if you’re due, I say go for it
@@HumbleMechanic the problem is I'm not sure when it's due and the belt doesn't look too bad, I dont think.. but im not sure what a new belt and old one looks like as I've only recently got into car stuff. If I mark spots, is timing belt fairly straight forward?
Charles, should the R32 engine appear to sit a little higher on the passenger side than the driver side? New mounts didn't seem to change the angle. I had no idea about the engine alignment. I just slapped in my new (034) mounts a few years back. I may go check that alignment now.
Yep. Mine is higher on the PS.
You are a Legend. Thank you.
engine mount
Bolt 10,13,16,18mm
Gap A14mm(top)
Gap B10mm
Torque 100nm(engine side)
40nm(body side)
Wonderful video, keep working man! Thanks!
How do you get The engine mount measurements?
hey man awesome vid.
I have a mk4 golf with the 2.slow engine in it., do you recommend swapping engine? or turbo charging that 2.0, after rebulding it with more compression and bigger pistons and all that? or just get an r32 and save on headache and money?
It’s a better to just get a different car.
is it safe to assume that this is the same procedure for an mk4 gti 1.8t ?
Yep. A little easier on the 1.8t
Basically the car makes a clunking noise only in reverse drive and sometimes neutral otherwise it drives perfectly fine changes gears perfect doesn’t slip or mis gears …. Do you think it could be driveshaft issue? Because once its into reverse or drive and sometimes in park … its fine and in neutral it makes the noise for literally 5-10 seconds max then goes back too normal bro … could it be damaged driveshaft causing that and the fault code?? I did have a error code saying unexpected gear disengagement but since cleared that hasnt come back up….
What do u think is the issue????
Is the 2010 Jetta 2.5 sportwagon similar in its motor mounts to this VW?
Very similar
this video would have been helpful a year ago. my 18mm bolts snapped in half one night and I supported the engine with a jack and wood. I ended up finding stronger rated bolts at the hardware store didn't know I needed to align it up I just hand tightened it down and had a shop torque it down.
That really didn't look that bad. Great job.
Nope it's super easy. Spending a few minutes properly aligning the mount is the trickiest part.
Does anyone know if this process is similar for a 2017 Jetta?
Step one should be disconnect battery. I learned the hard way when I fried two o2 sensors when my wrench hit the alternator and grounded to the motor mount.
Oh dang. That’s a solid idea. For this job you’re not working that close to anything like that
Reminds me of when they put the fng on the commercial line at AAP..."why is this guy at Firestone asking for a dog bone? We ain't a pet store!"...fun times at the parts counter.
HAHAHHA!
My 08 Jetta alarm keeps going off by it self. I thought you would be the right person to ask. It’s pissing off my neighbors in my apartment complex🤦🏻♂️ Any advice would be great thank you bro. It just started happening. I changed the key fob battery and it’s still doing it. I would hate to have to go to a shop for a diagnosis.
It’s probably one of the door latches failing. Which one? That’s the question. You can check to see which one maybe doesn’t lock. You can also look at alarm sources in the scan tool. Paying for diagnosis isn’t fun. But it is probably cheaper than throwing parts at it .
Doyou still have these installed in the blue R32? Would you recommend these? What made you chose 034? Need new mounts for my Mkv. I’ll see you in April my friend!
Yup they are great! Still 🤣🤣
@@HumbleMechanic rock on. I’ve heard differing opinions on the 034 stuff(not just the mounts) from our community. But I figured if you use em they can be that bad, or maybe your sponsored by them and have too(though I don’t think that’s the case). Love your stuff, and you as a person. Keep it up my dude
Nice!
How can you tell when you need new mounts? Is there a sound? Does it feel different on a manual vs an auto? TDI vs gasser? Thanks as always for the tut, Charles!
I was getting a little more engine vibration that normal.
Exelente trabajo 👏👏👏👏
Good job
Hi Charles, could you perhaps do a video on front cv axles replacement on a mk4 R32? I am doing a cv boot change on mine soon and cannot find the torque spec's for the installation gearbox side and wheel hub side. Much appreciated.
BTW, i'm a big fan of your videos and that beautiful blue R32.
Same here
Good video guys
Thank you
Hey Charles great stuff!!
Why they design mounts need to adjust?
Nice video, clear and concise. Thanks Charles.
Thanks so much. 💙
I dont know if I missed it but did you post the video with the spring/shock upgrade? I really didnt notice if you did.
I never posted the video. I filmed it. But never finished the edit
@@HumbleMechanic ah, ok I thought I was going crazy lol
Off topic but is your website down? I was going to submit a question for the viewer questions but it says "Error establishing database connection"
Is it the same for a MK4 TDI
Very similar
@@HumbleMechanicis that measurement yall did to make sure the engine is square the same
I have one more question if you get a chance, the mounts came in today and the engine motor seems pretty stiff compared to the transmission mount is that normal
thank you for the video.
Haha, i just did the same job also with anti-seize. Turned out it didnt need engine mounts and all the bolts where just loose :-/
Cleaned out the holes with break clean and compressed air then used orange thread lock ;-)
When should this be done ?