Thanks for watching. I hope this helps and thank you for all the support on the R32 rehab project! If you are not already subscribed, ~ ruclips.net/user/humblemechanic
HumbleMechanic man i just put some poly bushings on my mk4 tdi. and when i crank the car it rattled shaked and vibrated bad inside the car so i crank ended up having to put the old bushings back in and everything is fine. a bought lesson learned....
HumbleMechanic not sure which stage they was red I got them off ebay. but now I can't find the original bushings nowhere on ebay. im guessing I have to go to the stealership.
@SSD: You are so right. I'm an IT-guy here in Austria/EU and hardly do car-DIYs. BUT I love the channel and Humble's approach of "teaching us - his students". :) @HumbleMechanic: You are doing great, I truly hope u can make a living out it. THX!
When it was time to install new front end bushings in my Chevy S10 pick-up, I also chose polyurethane. I knew these bushings were prone to "squeaking" if not liberally lubricated during installation, and they would make the truck ride much "stiffer". Knowing these short falls didn't deter me from installing them. Now the truck handles high speed curves like a champ and most likely this will be the last time I'll ever have to replace them.
Charles, a few questions: 1. When replacing dog bone bushings, what other opportunistic maintenance should be considered in order to avoid having to take the dog bone off again at a later date? For example, should sway brace bushings be replaced at the same time or can that be done separately? What about any routine or preventative maintenance related to the sub-frame? 2. Does the sub-frame on MK IV GTI have any known issues that should be addressed? If so, would you consider making a video on that topic? 3. When torquing dog bone bolts into the transmission, should anti-seize compound or lock tight be applied, or should it be threaded in bear? Another great MK IV video and very appreciated. Thank you!
Great videos man, you do an amazing service to VW enthusiasts everywhere. I am really happy with Powerflex stuff so far, when I installed the R32 front suspension on my New Beetle I used Powerflex throughout. I didn't do mounts yet though, I am a little worried since I have a TDI but I also feel the dogbone doesn't contribute to NVH as much as the side mounts do. Thanks again for your great vids!
I think you can get the whole dogbone with poly already installed from ECS. Its more money but easier to install in case you dont want to mess with pressing new bushings in.
ne2i I should have bought one from ECS i think they are about $80 i payed $50 total for a Febi Transmission Mount and Energy Suspension Bushings now just waiting on new Bolts and Grease for the bushings.
I purchased the polyurethane dogbone from ECS and returned it because it was loud. I had a mechanic install it with new bolts so I was very disappointed. How did it turn out for you?
I’m a fan of the polyurethane. Not only does it look cool and last longer, I like the slightly firmer ride. If you don’t have the tool or $70, a few light taps with a soft face deadblow can usually get the bushing going without damaging it if you’re careful.
I'm considering buying the ECS Tuning dog-bone. I have a couple basic questions. Can you please explain why getting oil on the ECS Tuning dog-bone is not advised? Does oil exposure not effect the Powerflex bushings?
@Robot Ramone I purchased the polyurethane dogbone from ECS and returned it because it was loud. I had a mechanic install it with new bolts so I was very disappointed. How did yours turn out?
Thanks! my tdi wagon shakes violently. i can rock my engine back and forth way more than my golf TDI. this must be my issue. im glad its so easy. watched an ad for you. love your channel.
I saw a guy have a very hard time installing OEM style bushings in a Benz (He used Hamburg-Tecnik), and I had just almost as difficult a time on a BMWs(I used Meyle), so when I saw how Polybush was designed, I knew it was the only kind of bushing I would want to use in any German car. They even make them for the VW T4, so I can use them on the Winnebago Rialta that I will eventually restore.
Nice video and i really like that you tell us the torques, its very helpfull and raises the videos to a professional level! But were is your oil-level-sensor at your oil-pan?
If you live somewhere that salts you might just want to get a new one. I did this to my mk4 tdi over the weekend, but I replaced the whole thing with a CTS turbo one. When I took the mount off one side where it goes to the sub frame the entire bolt hole cracked and fell off just taking it off and the other side the same happened along with the bolt head snapping. Use penetrating oil on all 4 before hand as the bolts can snap when removing. The entire mount was just trashed metal and rubber parts, I don't know how it even held the trans up.
Powerflex are the best I have the powerflex front control arm bushings on my golf mk5 R32 and other bushings as well from powerflex. Nice vid i like the R32 series That you made :) and Gti. Grz From Holland'
Did the dogbone mount years ago on a mk4 jetta vr6 no press at all. I had bfi stage 2 green inserts, was a huge fight to get the Bushings in with no press.
Nice, clear instructions. My mom is getting a new car soon and might sell me her mk4 jetta wagon so this is perfect. I'm hoping to install some simple upgrades and Bolt ons. I'm starting to miss my mk2 golf and ready for some more vw in my life lol
You got lucky, I had to press the bushings on the sub frame side to get the bolt to the threads and I didn't have a press. Long story short I jerry rigged a bottle jack into a press by putting it between two buildings with some long 2x4's and cinder blocks.
Was the difference in performance noticeable? This upgrade seems cheap and easy enough and I’m sure my mk4 gti with 188k wouldn’t mind new bushings either.
Mine was so bad it was causing the engine movement to stress the flex pipe on my 2.0 Jetta. Had to get a new stiffer mount from CTS turbo and a new flex pipe welded in
Excellent video! Do these bushings fit the dog bone on a 2002 new beetle? If not, do you have a link to that application? I want to replace mine but like you say I can only find the whole unit. Thanks in advance.
please, please, please! Shoot a video about VW bolts, that are supposed to be replaced. Like, engine mounting, subframe... It's prescribed to replace it and fasten Torque+Turn. Does it matter if vital importance?
Ball joint press and bearing set is standard equipment in my box. P.S. two piece bushings are garbage, and will fail quickly on engine or trans torque mounts, especially if the customer has a heavy foot, which is generally why the bushing failed to begine with. I have had about a 50% failure rate on Ford strut rod style lower control arms within a year. Replacing control arm with factory pressed in bushing has a near zero failure rate within a year. Lower control arm cost a little more the labor is the same but the benefit to the customer far outways the time bringing it back for the same repair plus it makes the quality of work look better.
I like powerflex, i love the purple color, non oem colors since oem is gonna be black and i've read up some things difference between energy suspension and powerflex, powerflex higher priced because it already has the bushing or metal race inside already in it while the energy suspension requires you to burn out the oem bushings. What a waste of time but over i think its 1/5th of the price if not atleast 1/3rd of the price for powerflex though for burning the bushings, but one bad thing is ES bushings are 95A while Powerflex has yellow 70A or purple 80A, i'd prefer a street performance, not race on a streeter.
HumbleMechanic I got one for you: I have a Golf 6 estate 1.6 TDI with dsg 7. The dsg is starting to go weird on me especially when the motor is just started... Some say its just the clutch, some say its the mechantronic. So first i will try the clutch and start to pray...
A few reasons, 1) They are about the same price as OEM. 2) Powerflex was kind enough to support the project 3) Many OEM bushings are not available unless you buy the whole part 4) I have had several cars with poly bushings and never had 1 issue. No noise, no extra vibration nothing. I assume that is because the are always properly installed, and I never get the "race" ones. These are not that much stiffer than OEM.
I purchased the polyurethane dogbone from ECS and returned it because it was loud. I had a mechanic install it with new bolts so I was very disappointed
Does the mounts with either bushing make the same amount of noise? I'm looking to do this on a stock/daily-driver. I purchased the polyurethane dogbone from ECS and returned it because it was loud. I had a mechanic install it with new bolts so I was very disappointed.
Hey Charles I'm wondering if you do not get powerflex and choose to get more stock bushings to replace what type of lubricant would you advise for the new bushings before installing them?? Thanks
Are bushings made for gas engines also compatible with TDI engines? I can't find any listings online where both TDI and gas engines are listed as compatible. I have found entire mount assemblies which list both engine types as compatible. It leads me to wonder if the mount on TDIs is built for differently sized bushings (for different vibration dampening qualities?), even though the assembly as a whole is the same size. Maybe polyurethane bushings are too stiff to dampen a diesel engine?
Hey Charles, 2 years on how is the bush that came with the washer looking without it? Had these exact bushes arrive earlier this week and did notice the washer may create some torsion issues as it makes that point taller, so yeah, curious how leaving it out went for ya. Greetings from Australia!
This is a great tutorial and I've also seen the other powerflex tutorials that you uploaded recently, but nowhere do you discuss what are the actual pros and cons of the polyurethane bushings, would you consider doing such video, because I also want to upgrade to powerflex bushings but I am not aware of the downsides.
Thanks! Looking forward to it! I really want to do this on my mk4, but the roads over here are often "bumpy" and thats what keeps me from doing it atm as I am not sure exactly what the effects will be on the comfort, and to the surprise of many people the 4Motion MK4 is pretty comfortable and stable, I really love it:)
Hi My turbo to manifold bolts keep coming loose, "even with red loctite on the threads". Could this be my problem? And ive got a stage 1 tune. Have you seen this happen before thanks.
I hear it a lot to tighten something to so many Neuton Meters but how do you know when it is tighten to whatever Neuton Meter without some kind of gage? I’m from the US so maybe it’s the same as tightening something to so many pounds but was just wondering
Newton-meters is a measure of torque, just like foot-pounds. A Newton-meter is approximately 0.74 foot-pounds. So whenever you see someone quoting torque specs in newton-meters, just multiply that number by 0.74 to get the number of foot-pounds. So for example, 50 Newton-meters would be approximately 37 foot-pounds (50 x 0.74 = 37).
+panzerveps That isn't so easy in the USA. Few of the clicking torque wrenches sold here can be bought in N/M. Typically the only easy to find option is a fully digital torque wrench. That is a problem for me because I don't like any torque wrench that doesn't click. This is why I often read the service manual if a torque spec is critical. There is another problem. Japanese companies like to use Kgf/CM and then have you convert it to a different measuring unit. Unless you never have to work on a Japanese car (Highly unlikely to happen in the USA) then get used to using the conversion charts or a digital torque wrench. Some repair manuals might be nice enough to give you Inch Pound and Foot Pound numbers, but don't count on it. Another thing to keep in mind is measuring range. You will probably end up needing a 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch, and 1/2 inch socket torque wrench in order to torque the small, medium, and large bolts. That could get extremely expensive when you get torque wrenches in a specific range.
HumbleMechanic your definately lucky, usually have to notch the sides of the flange the bolts sit on and smash the old one off here in the uk with our bad weather and loads of road salt! They corrode that bad you can still drive them after the bolts have snapped off and the mount won’t come loose! As soon as mounts off the bolt studs just wind out like nothing happened, lol!
I see in the vid the car's on a lift. If I try this with the front end on ramps I figure the engine will swing much further back after the pendulum mount is disconnected, correct? If so, do I run the risk of damaging anything if that occurs?
The pendulum mount does stop that lateral movement from happening, it doesn't support the engine at all. The engine shouldn't move -that- much further back, and you can easily push it back by hand, or lever it back with a pry bar supported on the sub-frame, to align your first of the two front bolts when you reinstall the mount. If you're at all concerned, check your engine and transmission mount from up top, before raising the car. So long as they're secure, they hold all the engine/trans-axle weight. Even one of the two can hold it all (Don't ask me how I know this...)
My daily driver is a Mk.4 Jetta. I replaced the pendulum mount bushings recently, but used stock replacements. I was afraid that polyurethane bushings would increase NVH. Was I being paranoid? Side note: Apparently, the rubber pendulum mount bushings are hard to find. I got them from Black Forest Industries.
The only time I notice any difference is during shift. I think it's a more positive feel. This is a harder material but not much. IF you go with their race series then you would increase the the stiffness by 85% I Think... THAT would give you some feedback HAHA
I have a 1.8t and I definitely noticed the difference in vibration and also when you take your foot of the clutch pedal. It's not unbearable but since I did not feel any benefits on doing this I went back to a normal OEM ones. Also I was using the Powerflex red version for diesels which are supposed to be softer.
HumbleMechanic It is very possible. I will be changing the engine mounts, and may try the poly bushes again. I also heard the 1.8t isn't as smooth as the vr6 but can't be sure.
What jack stands are you using? I have the Harbor Freight 3 ton ones and they do not sit well in the pinch welds. They hold firm with the shake test before getting under the car but I wish there was more material touching the car.
I have 2 different ones on the car here. 1 set from Oreilly's and the other from Sonic tools. The Oreillys one is nice because it has a groove for it to sit in the pinch welds.
You might be able to get some pads that wrap around the jackstands for a better fit. This is what Harbor Freight sells for their jackstands: www.harborfreight.com/rubber-pads-for-jack-stand-2-pc-63373.html
hi charles, i see at the bottom of your oil pan your, oil pan sensor is blocked off? my r32 has the sensor, is this a difference in the area in which the cars where available?
it is listed as an oil thermal sensor g266, and provides the oil temperature on the cluster. weird i guess, your car's in usa dont have the oil temp in your clusters
I'm assuming yours is European? VWoA did some dumb things with that, in my opinion. I have a mk6 GTI and the Euro version, to my knowledge, gets oil temperature available in the MFD (center cluster information). The American version (mine) does not. The stupid thing is my brother's mk6 Jetta *does* get it and mine, despite being the more "high-end" one of the two, does not... Also, I can add it but it would require coding and about $200 in wires plus I'm sure a bit of a headache drilling and whatnot... Fun fun.
SETH STRAUSS Ah! Sorry to hear that. So maybe I will skip out on that mod for a while... Currently still my daily driver... Haha. Good luck with fixing it!
This was the MOST ANNOUYING MOUNT to take care of once and for all!!! I went through several mounts. my issue was the smaller one that attaches at the trans. it constantly broke turned to dust to the point where I literally striped the threads from the constant replacements!. I ended up measuring the bushing and replacing it with a solid aluminum chunk cut to the same size... I have a video of a drive after the install NVH wasn't even an issue since i retained the Ecs mount that slides into the subframe. Oh yea I had to use a time-sert to fix the threads on the trans been in there the past 6 years hasnt failed ...But Man....
Most polyurethane bushings have a silicone grease, but I would buy it directly from the bushing manufacturer. There might be something that makes their silicone grease different from everything else.
Hey Charles! Great video, how does it feel in responsiveness? does it feels with a little bit more harsh? how comfortable is it? I'm interested in install them. But they're hard to find and more expensive here in México. Thanks, have a good day!
I fitted the ECS dogbone bushes to my r32. It just gives the throttle response more instant feel, slightly better gear change control/feel, and also less esp intervention than before when going over humps and crests etc. Not really any extra harshness to speak of. So it's a good upgrade
Why do you call it an engine mount when ot clearly does nothing to mount the engine tobthe car? Wouldn't a torque rod or torque mount be a more correct term seeing thats its function?
HumbleMechanic Pendulum mount lol. I always laugh at terminology companies come up with. It's like someones brother inlaw needed a job and it was to come up with new technical terms to discribe an basic item. So it's purpose is to control engine and trans torque.
I would think that a rear sway bar for a standard MKIV would be much different than that of an R32 MKIV. In the USA, every MKIV had the non-independent suspension except for the R32. I suppose things may be different if you live in Europe, because I have heard that there are many more variants of the VW MKIV.
Thanks for watching. I hope this helps and thank you for all the support on the R32 rehab project! If you are not already subscribed, ~ ruclips.net/user/humblemechanic
I would like to watch engine mount replacement in a passat b6. Thank you
HumbleMechanic man i just put some poly bushings on my mk4 tdi. and when i crank the car it rattled shaked and vibrated bad inside the car so i crank ended up having to put the old bushings back in and everything is fine. a bought lesson learned....
Yeah that can happen on the TDI. Which “stage” bushings?
HumbleMechanic not sure which stage they was red I got them off ebay. but now I can't find the original bushings nowhere on ebay. im guessing I have to go to the stealership.
You really set the bar for high quality instructional videos!
Thank you
The Humble Mechanic: Putting us other mechanics out of business one excellent RUclips video at a time... 😎
Lol you know that’s not true!! :)
What? It's very true... your videos are excellent! :P
That washer in between the trans and doggone is to protect the urethane bushing from excessive wear
Please don't stop making videos like this one! Really enjoy them, thanks for your time and effort!
Thank you!!!
@SSD: You are so right. I'm an IT-guy here in Austria/EU and hardly do car-DIYs. BUT I love the channel and Humble's approach of "teaching us - his students". :) @HumbleMechanic: You are doing great, I truly hope u can make a living out it. THX!
When it was time to install new front end bushings in my Chevy S10 pick-up, I also chose polyurethane. I knew these bushings were prone to "squeaking" if not liberally lubricated during installation, and they would make the truck ride much "stiffer". Knowing these short falls didn't deter me from installing them. Now the truck handles high speed curves like a champ and most likely this will be the last time I'll ever have to replace them.
Charles, a few questions:
1. When replacing dog bone bushings, what other opportunistic maintenance should be considered in order to avoid having to take the dog bone off again at a later date? For example, should sway brace bushings be replaced at the same time or can that be done separately? What about any routine or preventative maintenance related to the sub-frame?
2. Does the sub-frame on MK IV GTI have any known issues that should be addressed? If so, would you consider making a video on that topic?
3. When torquing dog bone bolts into the transmission, should anti-seize compound or lock tight be applied, or should it be threaded in bear?
Another great MK IV video and very appreciated. Thank you!
Great videos man, you do an amazing service to VW enthusiasts everywhere. I am really happy with Powerflex stuff so far, when I installed the R32 front suspension on my New Beetle I used Powerflex throughout. I didn't do mounts yet though, I am a little worried since I have a TDI but I also feel the dogbone doesn't contribute to NVH as much as the side mounts do. Thanks again for your great vids!
I think you can get the whole dogbone with poly already installed from ECS. Its more money but easier to install in case you dont want to mess with pressing new bushings in.
ne2i I should have bought one from ECS i think they are about $80 i payed $50 total for a Febi Transmission Mount and Energy Suspension Bushings now just waiting on new Bolts and Grease for the bushings.
I purchased the polyurethane dogbone from ECS and returned it because it was loud. I had a mechanic install it with new bolts so I was very disappointed. How did it turn out for you?
I’m a fan of the polyurethane. Not only does it look cool and last longer, I like the slightly firmer ride.
If you don’t have the tool or $70, a few light taps with a soft face deadblow can usually get the bushing going without damaging it if you’re careful.
I agree! As long as you don't get oil on them. That makes them very sad. LOL
If you are concerned about oil saturation spray the assembled mount in undercoating.
I'm considering buying the ECS Tuning dog-bone. I have a couple basic questions. Can you please explain why getting oil on the ECS Tuning dog-bone is not advised? Does oil exposure not effect the Powerflex bushings?
@Robot Ramone I purchased the polyurethane dogbone from ECS and returned it because it was loud. I had a mechanic install it with new bolts so I was very disappointed. How did yours turn out?
So much talent and knowledge. Not easy to find these days
beautiful! going to be replacing mine tomorrow, cheers man. love that i can use your content from years ago and still find new helpful things
Thanks! my tdi wagon shakes violently. i can rock my engine back and forth way more than my golf TDI. this must be my issue. im glad its so easy. watched an ad for you. love your channel.
I saw a guy have a very hard time installing OEM style bushings in a Benz (He used Hamburg-Tecnik), and I had just almost as difficult a time on a BMWs(I used Meyle), so when I saw how Polybush was designed, I knew it was the only kind of bushing I would want to use in any German car. They even make them for the VW T4, so I can use them on the Winnebago Rialta that I will eventually restore.
Nice video and i really like that you tell us the torques, its very helpfull and raises the videos to a professional level! But were is your oil-level-sensor at your oil-pan?
Mk4 R32 didn't have it in the us
If you live somewhere that salts you might just want to get a new one. I did this to my mk4 tdi over the weekend, but I replaced the whole thing with a CTS turbo one. When I took the mount off one side where it goes to the sub frame the entire bolt hole cracked and fell off just taking it off and the other side the same happened along with the bolt head snapping. Use penetrating oil on all 4 before hand as the bolts can snap when removing. The entire mount was just trashed metal and rubber parts, I don't know how it even held the trans up.
Jake R it doesn't hold it up. It keeps it from rocking under torque
Jake R how well has your cts turbo mount held up? I'm about to replace mine with the same one this weekend.
Powerflex are the best I have the powerflex front control arm bushings on my golf mk5 R32 and other bushings as well from powerflex. Nice vid i like the R32 series That you made :) and Gti. Grz From Holland'
Cheers and thank you!
Did the dogbone mount years ago on a mk4 jetta vr6 no press at all. I had bfi stage 2 green inserts, was a huge fight to get the Bushings in with no press.
Nice, clear instructions. My mom is getting a new car soon and might sell me her mk4 jetta wagon so this is perfect. I'm hoping to install some simple upgrades and Bolt ons. I'm starting to miss my mk2 golf and ready for some more vw in my life lol
SWEET!!!
Niiice! I was looking for a mk4 Jetta TDI wagon for the longest time and settled on a mk4 Golf TDI. Only a few inches off, right? :)
You got lucky, I had to press the bushings on the sub frame side to get the bolt to the threads and I didn't have a press. Long story short I jerry rigged a bottle jack into a press by putting it between two buildings with some long 2x4's and cinder blocks.
Was the difference in performance noticeable? This upgrade seems cheap and easy enough and I’m sure my mk4 gti with 188k wouldn’t mind new bushings either.
Channel keeps getting better in every aspect
Thank you!
Mine was so bad it was causing the engine movement to stress the flex pipe on my 2.0 Jetta. Had to get a new stiffer mount from CTS turbo and a new flex pipe welded in
Quick question... Have you ever had to remove the subframe? How do you realign it when putting it back on?
Excellent video! Do these bushings fit the dog bone on a 2002 new beetle? If not, do you have a link to that application?
I want to replace mine but like you say I can only find the whole unit. Thanks in advance.
Perfect thank you for the professional and clear videos!
Your mk4 vids are great! please keep them coming!
please, please, please! Shoot a video about VW bolts, that are supposed to be replaced. Like, engine mounting, subframe... It's prescribed to replace it and fasten Torque+Turn. Does it matter if vital importance?
How did you reinstall the black bracket?I assume because you drilled it out it isn't usable again. How does it reattach?
Respect from India.
Your explanation is good.
Could you guide me How to improve engine performance??
Thanks! The formula is rather simple... More and and more fuel. :)
Ball joint press and bearing set is standard equipment in my box. P.S. two piece bushings are garbage, and will fail quickly on engine or trans torque mounts, especially if the customer has a heavy foot, which is generally why the bushing failed to begine with. I have had about a 50% failure rate on Ford strut rod style lower control arms within a year. Replacing control arm with factory pressed in bushing has a near zero failure rate within a year. Lower control arm cost a little more the labor is the same but the benefit to the customer far outways the time bringing it back for the same repair plus it makes the quality of work look better.
I like powerflex, i love the purple color, non oem colors since oem is gonna be black and i've read up some things difference between energy suspension and powerflex, powerflex higher priced because it already has the bushing or metal race inside already in it while the energy suspension requires you to burn out the oem bushings. What a waste of time but over i think its 1/5th of the price if not atleast 1/3rd of the price for powerflex though for burning the bushings, but one bad thing is ES bushings are 95A while Powerflex has yellow 70A or purple 80A, i'd prefer a street performance, not race on a streeter.
This is an excellent video. Keep up the good work
If you keep this up, I may find a vw in my driveway .love the ride HM.
;)
Watch out, you might end up becoming a technician!
Archer lol..too late..been doing it for over 30 years
Having harsh trans engagement park to reverse. 2001 Jetta Bora 1.8t any help appreciated
Let me be the first to say you are awesome. 👍 Is it a stage1 or stage 2 mount? Thanks for the tips.
man you make it look so easy...
This one is not too bad. The jobs that really suck I will let ya know before hand. :)
HumbleMechanic I got one for you: I have a Golf 6 estate 1.6 TDI with dsg 7. The dsg is starting to go weird on me especially when the motor is just started... Some say its just the clutch, some say its the mechantronic. So first i will try the clutch and start to pray...
Great video 👍especially the torque settings
thanks
wow, a vice and a 15mm drill.
i have tools that Charles doesnt o.O
i feel all hopefull for the future.
:)
Why'd you pick poly bushings? I've found they add a lot of noise and harshness since they don't have as much give as factory rubber bushings.
A few reasons,
1) They are about the same price as OEM.
2) Powerflex was kind enough to support the project
3) Many OEM bushings are not available unless you buy the whole part
4) I have had several cars with poly bushings and never had 1 issue. No noise, no extra vibration nothing. I assume that is because the are always properly installed, and I never get the "race" ones.
These are not that much stiffer than OEM.
I purchased the polyurethane dogbone from ECS and returned it because it was loud. I had a mechanic install it with new bolts so I was very disappointed
I find the yellow bushing a bit too stiff on my 315000km MK4 Golf. The red one (diesel bushing) would be a better choice for high mileage cars.
Does the mounts with either bushing make the same amount of noise? I'm looking to do this on a stock/daily-driver. I purchased the polyurethane dogbone from ECS and returned it because it was loud. I had a mechanic install it with new bolts so I was very disappointed.
I don't know why am I watching this. I don't even have a vw...
Hahahhaah
Hey Charles I'm wondering if you do not get powerflex and choose to get more stock bushings to replace what type of lubricant would you advise for the new bushings before installing them?? Thanks
Hey Humble!! You should make a video on intake shifter rods and how they work.03 24v 02m
That’s a great idea!
Are bushings made for gas engines also compatible with TDI engines? I can't find any listings online where both TDI and gas engines are listed as compatible.
I have found entire mount assemblies which list both engine types as compatible. It leads me to wonder if the mount on TDIs is built for differently sized bushings (for different vibration dampening qualities?), even though the assembly as a whole is the same size.
Maybe polyurethane bushings are too stiff to dampen a diesel engine?
Hey Charles, 2 years on how is the bush that came with the washer looking without it? Had these exact bushes arrive earlier this week and did notice the washer may create some torsion issues as it makes that point taller, so yeah, curious how leaving it out went for ya. Greetings from Australia!
This is a great tutorial and I've also seen the other powerflex tutorials that you uploaded recently, but nowhere do you discuss what are the actual pros and cons of the polyurethane bushings, would you consider doing such video, because I also want to upgrade to powerflex bushings but I am not aware of the downsides.
YES! I am holding off on that video until I get a few more bushings done on the car, and get some more miles on it. But I have that planned for sure.
Thanks! Looking forward to it! I really want to do this on my mk4, but the roads over here are often "bumpy" and thats what keeps me from doing it atm as I am not sure exactly what the effects will be on the comfort, and to the surprise of many people the 4Motion MK4 is pretty comfortable and stable, I really love it:)
I was really hoping that you had been planning to do that once you had them all replaced. Awesome!
you are great guy.thx a lot.
thank you
@@HumbleMechanic may be another Q.is it possible to repair the leaking valve? for example of a 1j0906283 valve. (egr vacuum valve.)
I’m surprised the 13mm bolts in the subframe didn’t snap, that’s what’s happened to me a few times on MK4s and 8L A3s
Thankfully there is no rust on the car
The second part failed on me in less than a week with a MK4 1.8T GLI auto, I thought there was supposed to be no wheel hop but that bushing ripped.
Oh no!!!! I’ve had issues with other Powerflex bushings
Thanks for the video mate
How whould i know if mines worn without taking out. Will is make noises.
You should do more videos on the mk5 2.0 but cool vid
Is there a benefit of only replacing the bushing vs getting a whole new dogbone mount? Is the only benefit the cost?
Hi
My turbo to manifold bolts keep coming loose, "even with red loctite on the threads". Could this be my problem? And ive got a stage 1 tune. Have you seen this happen before thanks.
Wich Is the best way to test the engine mounts without taking them apart?
Bushing+vice=done
Did you end up going back to Street density bushings on the dogbone?
Awesomeness!
I hear it a lot to tighten something to so many Neuton Meters but how do you know when it is tighten to whatever Neuton Meter without some kind of gage? I’m from the US so maybe it’s the same as tightening something to so many pounds but was just wondering
If I need to go back and forth I just use online conversations.
All VW repair manual is in Nm
Buy a torque wrench that shows Newton meters.
Newton-meters is a measure of torque, just like foot-pounds. A Newton-meter is approximately 0.74 foot-pounds. So whenever you see someone quoting torque specs in newton-meters, just multiply that number by 0.74 to get the number of foot-pounds. So for example, 50 Newton-meters would be approximately 37 foot-pounds (50 x 0.74 = 37).
+panzerveps
That isn't so easy in the USA. Few of the clicking torque wrenches sold here can be bought in N/M. Typically the only easy to find option is a fully digital torque wrench. That is a problem for me because I don't like any torque wrench that doesn't click. This is why I often read the service manual if a torque spec is critical.
There is another problem. Japanese companies like to use Kgf/CM and then have you convert it to a different measuring unit. Unless you never have to work on a Japanese car (Highly unlikely to happen in the USA) then get used to using the conversion charts or a digital torque wrench. Some repair manuals might be nice enough to give you Inch Pound and Foot Pound numbers, but don't count on it.
Another thing to keep in mind is measuring range. You will probably end up needing a 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch, and 1/2 inch socket torque wrench in order to torque the small, medium, and large bolts. That could get extremely expensive when you get torque wrenches in a specific range.
You forgot about the galvanic corrosion on the 2 13mm bolts where they seize inside the dogbone itself that means most snap!
Never dealt with it being in the south. But another good reason to replace the bolts.
HumbleMechanic your definately lucky, usually have to notch the sides of the flange the bolts sit on and smash the old one off here in the uk with our bad weather and loads of road salt! They corrode that bad you can still drive them after the bolts have snapped off and the mount won’t come loose! As soon as mounts off the bolt studs just wind out like nothing happened, lol!
UGH!!!! I have mad respect for you guys that deal with rust.
those 13MM bolts snap like twigs if your cars from the salt belt
Oh no doubt.
Rear axle bushings! I know R32 doesn't have it, but nobody has a good diy for this!!
I will be doing them on the MK3!
I see in the vid the car's on a lift. If I try this with the front end on ramps I figure the engine will swing much further back after the pendulum mount is disconnected, correct? If so, do I run the risk of damaging anything if that occurs?
The pendulum mount does stop that lateral movement from happening, it doesn't support the engine at all. The engine shouldn't move -that- much further back, and you can easily push it back by hand, or lever it back with a pry bar supported on the sub-frame, to align your first of the two front bolts when you reinstall the mount. If you're at all concerned, check your engine and transmission mount from up top, before raising the car. So long as they're secure, they hold all the engine/trans-axle weight. Even one of the two can hold it all (Don't ask me how I know this...)
My daily driver is a Mk.4 Jetta. I replaced the pendulum mount bushings recently, but used stock replacements. I was afraid that polyurethane bushings would increase NVH. Was I being paranoid?
Side note: Apparently, the rubber pendulum mount bushings are hard to find. I got them from Black Forest Industries.
The only time I notice any difference is during shift. I think it's a more positive feel. This is a harder material but not much. IF you go with their race series then you would increase the the stiffness by 85% I Think... THAT would give you some feedback HAHA
I have a 1.8t and I definitely noticed the difference in vibration and also when you take your foot of the clutch pedal. It's not unbearable but since I did not feel any benefits on doing this I went back to a normal OEM ones. Also I was using the Powerflex red version for diesels which are supposed to be softer.
Strange. I wonder if that exposed another weak point, or it was truly an issue. Plus everyone experiences NVH different.
HumbleMechanic It is very possible. I will be changing the engine mounts, and may try the poly bushes again. I also heard the 1.8t isn't as smooth as the vr6 but can't be sure.
Mine has the 1.9 TDI. The stock mounts are doing a good job of absorbing the "diesel rattle", and I don't want to change that.
Do old bushings squeak when accelerating, or do I need to do a visual inspection? I have a DSG
They can..
Are these bushings only for the OEM mount or would they fit a VF or other aftermarket mount of the same design?
I don't have a firm answer on that one. I would assume it's OEM only.
What jack stands are you using? I have the Harbor Freight 3 ton ones and they do not sit well in the pinch welds. They hold firm with the shake test before getting under the car but I wish there was more material touching the car.
I have 2 different ones on the car here. 1 set from Oreilly's and the other from Sonic tools. The Oreillys one is nice because it has a groove for it to sit in the pinch welds.
Thanks man I really appreciate your work and videos. They have helped me so many times over the years.
You might be able to get some pads that wrap around the jackstands for a better fit. This is what Harbor Freight sells for their jackstands:
www.harborfreight.com/rubber-pads-for-jack-stand-2-pc-63373.html
Got a video on doing this job on an mk5 GTI ? 😅
The pocket screwdriver only works if it has the Humble mechanics logo on it LOL
It’s true!!
hi charles, i see at the bottom of your oil pan your, oil pan sensor is blocked off? my r32 has the sensor, is this a difference in the area in which the cars where available?
Maybe. I don't recall seeing any mK4 R32s with in the US. I don't think it has the wiring.
it is listed as an oil thermal sensor g266, and provides the oil temperature on the cluster. weird i guess, your car's in usa dont have the oil temp in your clusters
I'm assuming yours is European? VWoA did some dumb things with that, in my opinion. I have a mk6 GTI and the Euro version, to my knowledge, gets oil temperature available in the MFD (center cluster information). The American version (mine) does not. The stupid thing is my brother's mk6 Jetta *does* get it and mine, despite being the more "high-end" one of the two, does not... Also, I can add it but it would require coding and about $200 in wires plus I'm sure a bit of a headache drilling and whatnot... Fun fun.
Well mine is an headache at the moment since it is registering a fault at the moment. so ja! :-(
SETH STRAUSS Ah! Sorry to hear that. So maybe I will skip out on that mod for a while... Currently still my daily driver... Haha. Good luck with fixing it!
This was the MOST ANNOUYING MOUNT to take care of once and for all!!! I went through several mounts. my issue was the smaller one that attaches at the trans. it constantly broke turned to dust to the point where I literally striped the threads from the constant replacements!. I ended up measuring the bushing and replacing it with a solid aluminum chunk cut to the same size... I have a video of a drive after the install NVH wasn't even an issue since i retained the Ecs mount that slides into the subframe. Oh yea I had to use a time-sert to fix the threads on the trans been in there the past 6 years hasnt failed ...But Man....
What kind of lubricant is that? Is it dielectric grease?
It's the lube that comes with the bushings.
Most polyurethane bushings have a silicone grease, but I would buy it directly from the bushing manufacturer. There might be something that makes their silicone grease different from everything else.
It's pretty much silicone grease. Don't use any other type of petroleum grease, as it will deteriorate the bushings
can you 3d print these?
I doubt the material will hold up
Just get a big screw, a nut and some fat washers for the install. No need to buy 70$ tools.
I did that!
the MK7 is more complicated this is a lot easier
Which lubricant is it?
It’s what came with the bushings
HumbleMechanic I want to lubricate the standard anti roll bar bushes, which type of lubricant would you recommend?
my rescued dogs want a bite of that 🍖 😂
WOOF
😁😁😁
What do u think of the upgrade ?
I like it. A very positive improvement. The time I mostly notice is during a shift.
Hey Charles! Great video, how does it feel in responsiveness? does it feels with a little bit more harsh? how comfortable is it? I'm interested in install them. But they're hard to find and more expensive here in México.
Thanks, have a good day!
if you worry about it been to hard you can use the red one meant for the TDI its a bit softer.
I fitted the ECS dogbone bushes to my r32. It just gives the throttle response more instant feel, slightly better gear change control/feel, and also less esp intervention than before when going over humps and crests etc. Not really any extra harshness to speak of. So it's a good upgrade
Why do you call it an engine mount when ot clearly does nothing to mount the engine tobthe car? Wouldn't a torque rod or torque mount be a more correct term seeing thats its function?
It holds the engine and transmission to the subframe.
If you really want to get technical it’s called a pendulum mount.
HumbleMechanic
Pendulum mount lol.
I always laugh at terminology companies come up with. It's like someones brother inlaw needed a job and it was to come up with new technical terms to discribe an basic item.
So it's purpose is to control engine and trans torque.
Yep. That’s why I don’t super sweat the vernacular. Lol
HumbleMechanic
Roger that.
Can i give the old dog bone to my dog,\or my baby's mama 's new boyfriends?\
He says “bushing”, you take a drink..
I love it!!
If you know anyone with a rear sway bar for a mk4 let me know, any will do but r32 proffered, Long story of idiot original owners
I would think that a rear sway bar for a standard MKIV would be much different than that of an R32 MKIV. In the USA, every MKIV had the non-independent suspension except for the R32. I suppose things may be different if you live in Europe, because I have heard that there are many more variants of the VW MKIV.
First