How To Replace Worn Control Arm Bushings
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- In this video I will show you how to replace crack, worn, or failed lower control arm bushings. Control arm bushing failure on R32 and all MK4 Volkswagens is common. You can press new bushings in to the control arm with either a shop press, or use the tool loaner program from your local parts store. Failure of a control arm bushing can cause noise in the front of a car and poor tire wear. We are replacing the polyurethane bushings with OEM R32 bushings. #r32 #humblemechanic
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I love this mechanic so much. He's highly intelligent and communicates perfectly 😊
Lol “one time use only” good one
I have to replace my bushings tomorrow on my Jeep Liberty. Are the things I take off really a one time use only
CHARLES! we TOLD YOU those urethane ones were gonna blow up your car! 🤣
I think you'll like the rubber ones, I put those in my daily 1.8t GTI 6 months ago and couldn't be happier. I used your previous video as a reference, thanks for all you do buddy.
Step 1: install entirely new control arms with bushings already in them Step 2: thank yourself
Yeah, but where's fun?
That’s an option for sure. One that I mentioned in the video ;).
@@tadeuszgladysz7387 Spending your weekend on your knees and getting your hands all bruised up trying to remove steel bits that really don't want to be removed is a strange idea of "fun".
Of course it's different if you've got a fully kitted out auto workshop, in which case you probably don't need to be watching this. Other than that you really want to just buy the complete control arms instead and save yourself the pain.
@@BigUriel I agree, a lot of these help you do it yourself channels fail to mention the importance of having a car lift and most of us don't have one which makes all these 'simple do it yourself' jobs extremely hard and time consuming.
This is a Lazy or just incompetent approach no thx.
Damn you make that job look so easy 😁 I really miss my two MK IV Golfs I had from new (1x Petrol GTI and a PD150 GTI). Those cars have a special place in my car heaven 👍🏻
Every few months I spray all my bushing and c.v boots with wd 40 silicone spray to keep them in good working order,it also stops them from drying out and cracking in the cold months.
That long wheel hanger stud certainly makes it easier to line up the wheel stud holes when re-fitting the wheel.
Great movie because this is what I must to do to my MK4 GTI in the next days
Bafta sandule!!!
@@ArminVBThe1. Multumesc.
Did the front control arms bushings on my 05 seat ibiza about a year ago went with powerflex road series. Checked them twice since i installed them no cracks whatsoever really happy with them. Did it on jackstands and had to buy the tool to press out the rear bushings, thankfully it wasnt expensive. A year later and along with endless mods (whiteline anti roll bars front and back with adjustable end links , bc coilovers, vibra technics engine, transmission and dogbone mounts, ultra racing chassi bracings and i couldnt be happier all i need yo complete my suspension is a steel belly pan to protect them and im done with suspension
NVH increase?
Thanks Charles. Perfect tutorial as always. What bums my son and I out is after we do our careful OCD work like this (I am a huge Hardware Replacer, no matter the cost or car) the Alignment guy goes 'Hammer Handed' on it.
Yeah that sucks! Maybe install old hardware, get it aligned, then you do new hardware? Doing one bolt at a time shouldn’t impact alignment.
Tell him not to go hammer ham on it!
Wheel hanger? Genius! Thanks for introducing me to this simple gadget.
AWESOME
Great video Charles.
I have a Passat B7 2012 workhorse ,,Here in the UK we have MOT ( ministry of Transport test )
I had an advisory of VERY LITTLE movement in the rear bearings you were doing,,Getting too old to do my own maintenance now But my local garage are REALLY GOOD ,, I’m now tempted as you make this look SO easy BRILLIANT
Explanation Very Clear and understandable.
Thank you,,,,But I’ve Decided cos YOU make it look SO easy I’m going to let them do it,,just in case. ,
Love the vids Keep up the Good Work
Best Wishes and STAY SAFE
Steve B. ( UK )
I just redid all of the rear bushings on my B6 A4 Quattro, it was one of the most frustrating job's I've ever done! That flat lower control arm looks like an absolute dream to press compared to the complex shapes of cast aluminum Audi decided to use in the back end
The B chassis cars are just silly with their bushings. I need to do the Passat soon
sweet. great job dude. I am new to your channel and love the content I have seen so far. I appreciate how you don't skip over the problems that you run into while doing this work. I also appreciate your honesty when you say what to do if you don't have the right tools or parts, because honestly that’s how most of us face these issues, without all of the professional equipment. Thanks for the help on this. I just got new wheels and haven't put them on yet so I decided to inspect the bushings and sure enough mine are toast. Way worse then yours, but mine are probably OEM and have never been replaced. I am the second owner and have about 160,000 miles, so it is way past due. I also will be replacing my strut mounts since those are also toast but I have already replaced those once. I'm gonna use heavy duty ones from ECS Tuning this time.
Thank you so much
Thanks! I was just wondering about this. Had my control arms replaced under warranty but not the bushings.
You should retitle this suspension 101 part 1. You should also mention to inspect these bushings along with motor & trans mounts every other time you are under your car. Somethings, like bushings are very overlooked wear points. Great vid as usual.
Yuck water is the name of my new band. Lol awesome video as always👍
Hi sir iam regular following @humbalmacanic @manishcartechnology @howtoautomotive
Haha it’s what we yell out to my dog. He is old and like to drink out of water puddles in the yard. “Choey stop drinking that, it’s yuck water”
car lovers awesome thank you!
HumbleMechanic lol. Wish I had a shop dog. My dog passed about year ago.
@@HumbleMechanic hi Mr chris can you tell me please how does pistons move in cylinder does pistons move in rotational motion in cylinder well waiting for your humble reply thanks indeed
Ugh.. Always a rough job no matter how you cut it. That's one of the first things we'll have to do on our EK civic we just picked up.
Professional as always. Great job, mate.
Poly bushings typically last longer than traditional rubber ones. The hard part about selecting poly bushings is finding a company that has perfected the hardness/softness of the poly. Some aftermarket poly bushings are entirely too soft I've seen that quite a bit on aftermarket jeep bushings. Some are to stiff which is what Charles had an issue with. Too hard or stiff and the bushing can crack.
Beautiful work and giving confidence to do it myself, that's what Charles is all about 🎈❤️
And from the looks of things the subframe is support easy to remove too! Future plans! 😎
I have an '09 mk5 Rabbit and I just love your channel and content. Thanks for everything and keep up the good work.
Thank you!
Will be doing this on forward left upper control arm of a 04 TrailBlazer.
Nice I did both upper and lower control arm on my wife's 02 trailblazer but I bought the whole control arms and other suspension and steering stuff
It seemed to me that you pushed out the old bushing on the larger flange side. Could be harder to extract?
15:10 I appreciate that you addressed the reuse of the stretch, torque diff and intention to use new one later on alignment. I’ve had VW mechanics recently say regular bolts are fine for the dog bone mount but no advice on change in torque spec…I don’t think he understood tty.
They re use all tty bolts and don’t replace squat! Guys at VW parts told me they don’t replace unless visible damage.
Create sadness is the nicest way to say things went sideways 😂
Hello Charles been on Holidays, glad I come back to a new video. Thanks
how have you found the OEM bushings to be vs the polyurethane's?
All VW from that time use the same exact bushings. They even use the same exact control arm.. And it's known flaw that those bushings fail very frequently. One pothole and its done.. I've changed them few times... But only the back ones on the control arm, the front will never wear out, i use the original ones from 20 years ago and they work perfectly..
They don’t use the same control arm. The R32 is different
Do up the bolts until they break, take them out, start again!!! hehehehe!! Good job mate.
I wondered what happened to Aaron from Gas Monkey Garage FastNLoud Show great to see him again on RUclips awesome mechanic.
I like the idea of going OE -> Aftermarket - > OE, provides some real concrete testing of the value. AND maybe, just maybe, VW had it right in the first place.
Those solid rubber bushings are a nice upgrade for the Mk4 Jetta/Golf.
Yep. I have them in my mk3
I'm glad my subaru just bolts up from the bottom. Non of this lowing subframe, malleting it in stuff.
how are you teacher??? I live in Caracas, Venezuela... and I have a Chinese car: chery orinoco, which is the name for Venezuela, its global name is chery a3 (if you type chery a3 in google, half of the references will be audi hahahahahahaha) I have always said that my car has many volkswagen-inspired parts: the radiator electric fan relay, the lights on button... and I say inspiration because they are not exactly the same to avoid problems (and, obviously, create a market) and today I discovered something more: the suspension arms of my car are based on yours... of course, those of my car instead of being cast, are made of rolled steel (and they cost $35 each with everything and the bushings), but it is that even the dimensions of the rear hub are clearly the same as those of my car. Of course, there are many differences, but I know that I can risk buying something of better quality for my car. It's that even the location of the components in the subframe... everything... MY CAR IS A DISGUISED VOLKSWAGEN HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. You can see my videos to laugh for a while... the video of the suspension will be coming soon. Greetings teacher from Caracas
Looks like Bilstein Sport Shocks.
Brother, the videos you create are freaking great!!!! Oh, need one more exclamation mark "!!!"
Went berserker over there, but the videos are worth it.!!!!! Boom! More exclamation marks.
I wish you picked your project car to be the same as my car, so the information will match and I can start wrenching.
Good stuff, my man. Keep doing the videos. I'll keep doing my part and click on the adverts even though I don't need what they are selling. 😂 🤣
I had a Mk3 do the exact same thing. Just ate the rear lower until it fell out.
It was funny returning the old bush to the supplier XD
Here's the thing about poly bushings, you don't want them in areas where movement is not rotating with the axis of the inner sleeve. They'll almost never fail if they're rotating on the sleeves axis but because they're so solid that flat rear bushing just splits.
Designed to fail. They direction the bushing attaches, compared to the direction the arm moves when the suspension goes up or down...it strikes me that the stiffer the bushing, the sooner it fails. Odd they didn't have the rear pivot point allow for free motion in the same plane as the front. You'd think that would make for more supple and more controllable suspension movement - or maybe a heim joint for the more spirited driving enthusiast (although that may transmit a little too much NVH.)
Poly is definitely the worst material to put in a position like that too. I think there's a reason that VW stopped putting the solid rubber LCA bushings in the newer R's, as well. Optimally, a spherical bearing is what you need. The comfort of the drive will be sacrificed at that point, however, but it'd be top notch for handling.
Charles, Some questions: 1) when this bolt 4:00 was removed the first time (a year before this video was shot), how did you do it without breaking off the captive-nut on the subframe? What type of penetrating oil did you use, and do you possibly recommend using a mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone for this purpose? Apparently others on youtube feel that mixture is more effective than store bought penetrating oils. What's your opinion? 2) When this same bolt was removed, is it better to use a hand wrench or impact wrench to slowly/carefully break the bolt free after it has soaked in penetrating oil? 3) Before reinstalling the bolt, should the captive-nut and/or bolt be coated in any way (locktite? anti-seize compound? other?) before reassembly? 4) Is a specific alignment of the subframe necessary when subframe bolts are removed? I realize the control arm/ball joint linkage will require an alignment adjustment, but I'm specifically interested in knowing if an alignment adjustment is necessary on the subframe when those mounting bolts are removed. Outstanding video as usual! Very helpful.
Good job on the control arm bushing repair and replacement thank you
I did poly bushings on my Mk4 Jetta. Both the captive nuts broke free and I ended up having to cut two holes in the subframe to get a wrench on the back of them. Also, nobody told me just how difficult it is to get the poly bushings into the control arm even with access to a press.
very good mechanic and great footage throughout :)
Thank you
Super thorough, professional, and detailed. This is the epitome of a RUclips video. Do you have a link to the lift?
greatful video. thank you very muc.
Who is getting their notifications? Seems like tons of you guys aren’t getting them.
Got mine that why i'm here early
💙💙💙
haven't hit the bell but I'm here
The problem is, their are a bunch of celebrity channels on RUclips. So, if someone subscribes to many of these celebs? Their notifications will overtake yours; and their videos will be clicked quicker because they are more familiar with, let's say, Will Smith. RUclips needs to go back to its true essence.
I always get mines...
The sharpie trick or spray paint the ball joint nuts are my personal favorites. Alignment..pssh. "one time use" is the same as a little less torque. 😏. In all seriousness great content.
Thanks. Yeah I try and replace where I should but that gets $$$$$$
The control arms should be torqued when under load
You always make it look so easy... 😒
I replaced bushings once and it did not go smooth. I was young and didn't have a bushing press and wound up cutting a few old bushings out. Then pressing the new bushings in with a large C clamp. What a nightmare that was!
Yeah even with the exact thing the pressing in/out can be a pain. Lot of people go with a loaded control arm. I totally get that
You should put the car down first (or simulate it by jacking the suspention up) before tightening the bolts on the bushings. Otherwise there will be hell lot of tension on the bushings once the car is down, and that can make them wear/crack really fast.
You're righ,but only 50%! You must do that only on bushings with metal housing and not to all the bushings.
I was wondering the same thing and if that applies to these arm types. They don’t have a inner sleeve so that may be why it not necessary?? Idk
I have a question concerning the one time use ball joint nuts. When the alignment guy adjusts those aren't they then toast again?
Technically yes. :( I’ll probably reuse once or twice
That's why I'd keep the ball joint on the control arm when removing it - just split the ball joint from the hub. No need for realignment ;)
Poly bushings "Creating some sadness" since the 80's lol
THANK YOU!
When are you gonna do the control arms on your Passat if you haven’t already? I think we’d all like to see you tackle the four link refresh job in a video like this. I’ve got a whole slew of bilstein/Lemförder suspensión parts for my Passat waiting on the day I build the courage to tackle the million ball joints hahahaha
Soon hopefully
I just did mine in my A4 and all in all the process wasn't too bad. Unless the previous owner/mechanic had never heard of antiseize like they clearly did in my case... both of my 4" pinch bolts put up a hell of a fight that ultimately ended with me buying two knuckles from a wrecker. The bolts had completely welded themselves in and no amount of penetrating lube, heat, impact or pressure could release them anymore
Love your video bro
Instead of hammering the bolt through I like to thread them through instead. Less chance of damaging threads.
Ditto. Just give it a "brap" with the cordless impact.
You torqued all screws in fee air? Also - ELSA says that bushing even if they are solid, have marking on them
Question, why are there using angles like torque to yield bolts ?, other cars can reuse the bolts for control arm so why reolace every time???
Just did this on my TT after all these years. You take out the top bolt in the ball joint and not the 3 bottom ones - no allignment needed. And what about the subframe? there was enough space to remove and torque everything with 1/2" tools.
Instead of loosening the subframe, loosen the lower transmission-mount and loosen the controlarm as shown (don't forget to loosen the drive axle nut too and pull it out of the knuckle). Pry on the transmissionside just far enough so you can pull the bolt out (passengerside). I haven't touched the subframebolts doing it this way. I replaced my controlarm bushings (old one was with channels) with the ones from the Audi S3. But the R32/Audi TT/Audi S3 all uses the same rear solid controlarm bushings and they will fit ALL mk4 cars.
Plenty of ways to get it done. I like this way. Done hundreds of these like that. Lol
yeah never had luck with cheaper poly bushings that are soft, strongly recomend superpro only brand that has lifetime warranty, they have an internal cross hatch that holds the grease in place never seen it on any other brand
I got the same maker's like the blue one but with the set of colors nice man 👨 👌
those violet bushing costs almost 6 times more than original and it looks like they fail quite soon
Another great video Charles
Awesome presentation
So you don’t have to have the car on it’s natural weight before torquing to torque specs? I’ve heard it can rip the bushing if you tighten all the way before on natural weight.
So many RUclips mechanics don't use copper grease/anti-seize on bolts. Even Eric at South Main Auto who works on cars in the rust belt and is arguably one of the best mechanics ever, hardly ever greases bolts when he's reinstalling them. Even if you don't live in an area where rust is an issue, I feel like at least mentioning that using anti-seize is recommended if your viewers do live in a cold/wet climate.
Using anti-seize can impact the torque of the bolt. I use it where recommended. Sometimes other places but for the most part I don’t use it unless it’s called for.
@@HumbleMechanic Hey Charles, thanks for taking the time to reply! I was aware that adding anti-seize to the fastener affects the torque specs. I usually dial the wrench back about 15% to account for that. I wish I didn't need to use it so much, but the reason I feel it's so important to use copper grease or something similar on exterior nuts and bolts is because I'm in the middle of restoring a very rusty 1994 Celica GT-Four and literally every nut and bolt on the underside has fought me, some of them even snapping off in the body and having to be drilled out. I live in the UK where we salt the roads in winter, so cars can get into that state over a few winters if they're not well maintained.
Nice video and thanks for sharing
Yep, it's always important to get your bottom hole lined up properly!!!
Love watching your videos , you doing a great job , great camera work , I replaced vacuum pump on Jetta with your help , thanks
My upper control arm outer bushing is a split bushing but they have the metal lip on both sides. How do I go about getting them out. It’s the rear upper outer control arm bushing on my 2008 Subaru tribeca
What about to an MK4 Vr6 24V do you thing is better just to release the top engine mount and raise the engine to remove that bolt??
I have a 2013 VW PASSAT S w/ a 5-speed manual…I bought the lower control arms and some new ball joints…etc and want to know the specs for my car to tighten the various bolts of the lower control arms
A1 job- and video!thanks for the info and tips.
I'm a woman with a 2012 Passat. Love the car. I was at the dealer this morning and was told I needed to "replace the lower control arm bushing" right side-they want to replace the whole bracket. Sounds good, based upon your vids. Should I replace the left side at the same time or does it matter? Thanks. Love your videos.
I’d do both sides on that one!
I'm trying to get my control arms replaced for my 04 Chevy aveo. But, it came from up north, and the 2 previous owners were female. Needless to say? The bolts are rusty, and had seized. So, the only option would be to use a torch. I want someone else to do it, because when I was younger, I was kind of a pyromaniac.
HELP! Got an intake manifold fault for my runners a few days ago. I checked my engine bay today, and the lever arm came off 😂🤣. Should I drive it to my nearest VW or tow it??
@@SkankHunt-fo5xv its a 2015 with 40k miles LMAO. Volkswagen is garbage
@@juanmedina4780 yes exactly
By anychance did u do the vid of replacing the sub frame bushes
Bro! I'm thinking to swapped audi tt mk1 lower control arm on my vw golf vr6 24v.... do you think it's going to work?
Older, single lady, that is so grateful for you and your videos. I have a 2012 Jetta SEL. I always review the repair before I let the shop work on my vehicle, so as to have a idea of the extent of the repair and parts required . I do take my vehicle to a reputable European auto shop. ( but, you can never be to informed). You mention the nuts are one time use, and replace the two bolts..when I look up the OEM bushing, there’s no reference to the nuts and bolts. Is that just common knowledge to a tech to replace those? Thank you again!
So when you look them up they say to replace. If they are (tty)Torque to yield stretch bolts they need replaced because they don’t have same clamping force they originally had with torque specs. Guy at VW told me the techs do reuse unless looks damaged and couldn’t believe it so just very critical bolts should be replaced like hub and areas with spinning movement.
What were the symptoms of the control arm bushing gone bad? Popping/clunk noises and indirect steering??
I don't know about you, but I could sit here and watch 20 + minutes of Charles explaining all the things you should do before removing the bolt at 4:10.
"Hey guys, and also, make sure your impact battey has a good charge"
"And Also, make sure you're not using a cheap socket. Don't wanna round the corners! "
@3:45
HUH...????!!
What kept the engineer transmission from crashing down after the subframe was loosened...?
It’s better to support and create weight on the external ball joint (like the car is sitting with the wheel on the ground)before tightening all the bolts and nuts of the control arm to spec because you can have premature worning on the bushing.
I hope I can be understand.(I’m Italian) 😅
I do final torque with the wheel back on and sitting on the ramps.
"Create some sadness" lol!
Itś a design problem that a solid pu-bushing will crack. I have a uniball bushing installed in this special location.
15:45 when doing the 90 degree turn after torquing i noticed you used 2 turns of the wrench... I always thought that those 90 turns need to be 1 fluid motion to the 90 mark....
It’s one of those things if you can, do it. But there are times where ya just can’t.
Unless I've missed it, aren't you suppose to put tension on the control arm before torquing bushings?
@@tomwalma4762 Normally on a lift or jack stands, you would push the control arm upwards until the car lifts off of the lift/jack stand just a bit. Then you'd tighten everything to the correct torque spec
@@SaschaJS agree! I would do the same. Hence my comment.
I follow the repair manual for that stuff. Some require loaded torque, others don’t.
Hi I am changing my front control arms on Audi tt mk1 2 wheel drive I bought genuine bolts and see that the bolts same diameter but rear Bush 13mm so sloppy fit . Is this right. Thanks Ian.
Humble! Another great upload, Could you do a upload of removing and instaling front axle wheel bearings the correct way!
That’s a great video topic
@@HumbleMechanic Think i should get a shout out for that 😎❤
You can also use a bench vise to remove/install the bushings
Yep. I think I mentioned that in the video
solid bushings
Why my car shaking on 60mph after replacing the control arm bushing? I have done spooring n balancing
thanks for your video. 10/10
I used solid rubber bushing like yours before. The rubber is peeled out on the rims because it has no slit like OEM style. There is a good reason it is not solid rubber
Torque specs. are one thing, but what's the deal with the degrees...??
Spherical is the way to go on the rear vertical bushing.
I’m assuming you didn’t need to support the engine because it was still being held by the engine mounts up top and you didn’t fully remove the 6 bolts?
Any where else would of told you 1000 times to support it with a jack etc. Loved the video and it’s gonna help when I gotta do mine in the next couple of days
Nope. There only support the subframes provides is the dog bone mount.
@13:35 Am I the only one who laughed at "bottom hole", my humor hasn't come out of middle school. :)
Lot of talk of nuts too. 😂
@@HumbleMechanic True!
I just cannot understand why suspension engineers would use a horizontal bushing with a vertical bolt for a part designed to move more or less up and down. It’s relying on the flex of the bushing itself to be able to move, which seems like it’s designed to fail.