I would be careful with using a bolt that has a shank that's the exact size of your tabs. Especially since the tabs will deform some when tightening. If you run out of threads your torque wrench will click off but the joint isn't necessary tight. The bolt sees a relatively low load because the bolt is tight(Joint stiffness ratio). If the bolt isn't able to provide enough preload to the inner sleeve then the bolt will see more load than it should. This is why you see bolt holes in tabs get egg shaped because the bolt wasn't tight enough. With that said if you use enough washers to make sure the nut has threads to grab on to then you are golden.
Thank you for never assuming that your audience knows what the heck they’re doing. And, more to the point, for never adopting a patronizing attitude when you set things straight. Your build videos have been and continue to be tremendously helpful. Thanks for keeping up the standards and the humanity.
@@GarageFab You are much, much better at it than me lol, I can try my damndest to inform without intent of insult, but I don't succeed near as often as I wish I could.
What a fantastic video. No excess blabbering but straight to the point and everything presented in an easily understandable fashion. Subscribed immediately, just starting on the first project car where I have to rebuild the entire suspension and this kind of info is priceless. Thanks you!
I would agree great info and to the point. I’m in the process of doing this on my 88gt fiero it’s a resto build a barn find no motor. The car sat for 23 years. All the hardware for the suspension had to be cut off. Or it broke off and the. Had to be cut off. So poly upgrade it is. Your video help refresh my memory on installing them. Thanks.
Great information, thank you. The difference between these and OEM is on an OEM bushing the rubber is bonded to both the inner and outer barrel. The only movement is the flex of the rubber between the inner and outer metal barrels. That's why when changing things like control arms, you don't torque them up until they are on the ground (or ramps) under their own weight. That way, you are tightening them up in a position in the middle of the suspension's range of motion: In full compression they twist one way, in full droop, they twist the other way. If you tightened them up fully while unladen in the air at full droop, they would be much more likely to tear at full compression because now you are asking the rubber to twist in one direction to cover the full range of the suspension's motion. the take-away: Tighten them while on the ground or they will tear quickly.
I was looking for this comment. I've had this discussion with alot of my helpers. "Never tighten rubber suspension bushings with the vehicle jacked up". They won't last 6 months
Not always. Mazda leaf spring bushings have the inner sleeves bonded in but not the outer. They press into the leaf spring eyes and the bushings on the shackles ate not bonded to either. Same for square body chevy trucks and many others.
@@michaelwhite-oi1ft There are always minor exception. Older Grand Cherokees have bushing at the back of the lower A-arms that are bonded to their housings but not the part of the control arm that sides into it. But the front bushings in the same A-arms are fully bonded so you still have to have full weight on the suspension before you torque everything
While we’re at it, Toyota/Lexus also have bushings with bonded inner sleeves that press into an eye and are therefore not bonded on the outside. They are rubber, though, and are not lubricated so I follow the same tightening procedure.
Good video. I have fixed a few 'death wobble' trucks just by installing longer sleeves that lock down when the bolts are torqued. It's amazing how little movement in suspension will create such a large issue
Interesting! I’ve had a few people ask me how to fix death wobble, but I honestly haven’t really experienced it. It’s not a problem we see often in the mini truck world.
I’ll classify this as one of the best YT vids out there. Actually very informative to people who don’t know, but also informs the people who THINK they know of proper techniques for safety and durability. Bravo bro
Thank you Steven! That is quite the honor. That’s what makes RUclips so great. You could learn something, even if you thought you already knew it, all in the privacy of your own mind. For those that struggle with self-worth, No one has to know they didn’t know something. Conflict-free learning! Cheers my friend!
Dude! Fantastic video! I've replaced the suspension bushings on my whole truck myself, but I never before fully understood how the parts function as a set. I am so grateful for this video. You are an excellent teacher.
Just stumbled across the channel. Finally, somebody is making videos of the small details everyone else's leaves out that are so important. Major companies instructional videos always leave this out. They just say insert and tighten to spec without going into How it's supposed to function with the part that was just installed
Yes, I am a through bolt rust prevention greaser. Thanks. Great video to help everyone understand bushings, and how important it is to have them correctly built, and installed.
@@GarageFab Welcome to the UK. Everything rusts this time of year. Every time I work on one of my cars the Mrs. asks why my cloths are covered in 'gold glitter'.
What a nice job of describing the correct way to mount a bushing assembly! The bushings I’m using specify white lithium grease in case anyone didn’t get that information with their bushings. I use drum brake bearing grease(stringy stiff grease) on the bolts and, a bit of red loctite in the nuts to make sure they stay put.
This was an excellent video. Explaining not only what to do, but what not to do and why in an easy to understand manner without sounding patronizing. As others have said, that can be a tricky balance to find when teaching. Nicely done.
Yessss! Now that was a great and well articulated run down of suspension bushings and components. Even if you’re not fabricating and all you’re doing is installing bolt on components like mid or long travel kits this is something you should be aware of. Make sure the manufacturer is giving you quality parts
You never know everything my father use to tell me and try to learn something new every day and i just did!!! You are a really good teacher my hat off to you! Thank you for your education and my learning. Joe
I like how at first you asked what's wrong. I didn't know what I was looking at, but as you went through it, I could start seeing what was wrong. It was so helpful!
FINALLY, a person who KNOWS how to measure a BOLT. Fat too many mechanics tend to think the HEAD size is the size of the bolt and they usually get all bent out of shape when they ask for a 1/2" bolt when they are really after a 5/16" one.
Haha! I’m guilty of that at work. Interesting how my fab life and wrenching life don’t agree. While working on Toyotas with metric fasteners, if say I need a 14mm bolt, I’m NOT talking about the threads. 😂
A couple of additional comments - when a ZERK grease point is used, make sure the sleeve is welded in a position where the nipple is accessable with the suspension member fitted to the vehicle - sometimes you can correct this with a 90 or 135 fitting, but not always. If the fastener uses a castellated nut which takes a split pin, you can usually replace it with a stainless steel "R" clip - they won't rust in place and are easily removed, and they're re-useable. Depending on the specific application, it may be wise to use a longer bolt than actually required and drill the end, after the retaining nut, for an "R" clip - it doesn't often happen, but if for some reason the nut loosens, the clip will prevent it falling completely off and so prevent the bolt backing out. If you have access, you can do the same thing with bolts into captive nuts. Something I got from Justin* is to turn up some alloy spacers that are a close fit to the sleeves and use them instead of the 'plastic' insert when tacking parts together - ruclips.net/video/aIGTNU6hG2Q/видео.html *He also has a lot of sound advice to compliment this gentleman's advice - www.youtube.com/@TheFabricatorSeries/featured
All good info! I like the idea of the R clips. Toyota uses those a lot and they’re really classy looking and, as you mentioned, reusable. I think I might have to incorporate those in some stuff soon. Ah, Justin. Fellow Las Vegas fabby guy. Part of the reason I wanted to become a famous RUclips fabricator. 😉 Thank you Brother. 🙏
Thank you for pre-empting my "But of course I grease the bolts, because I want to be able to get them back out again some day" comment. :D You're the bomb, dude. :D
@@GarageFab I mean... better the desert than somewhere that rust happens, but yeah, I've definitely had rubber bushings weld themselves to bolts shafts, even living in the 'Burque.
I was checking up on intake manifolds for my Toyota engine, and then your video came up, recommended by the RUclips algorithm. As much as I am an idiot when it comes to bushings - your video provided great insights and a concise explanation on what bushings should be. Also, thumbs up to hearing from a Toyota-certified professional! Thank you from Singapore!
Haha! I think that implies that I am a guru of sorts. I’m definitely not that. I only have a firm grasp on the basics, and a willingness to share the little bit that I know. There are people that know far more than I do, just finding ones that teach can be a challenge. Regardless, thank you Michał! So very happy to have you.
Exactly why I follow and watch your content, I don't want to just know what works, BUT WHY IT WORKS. As always, super informative, intelligently simple and concise. A++
This probably only applies to the after-market polyurethane bushings. Most OEM bushings are basically melted rubber that is stuck to both the inner and outer sleeves. Then it becomes important to tighten these bushings with the control arm at rest or “normal ride height” or the bushing will be twisted when the vehicle is on the ground.
You are correct Victor. I probably should have made that more clear. It’s surprising how often I see technicians installing control arms with bonded rubber bushings and tightening up the bolts on the lift. 🤦🏻♂️ With polyurethane bushings, the sleeve is not bonded and is designed to slip, so it doesn’t matter when you tighten the bolts. Thank you Victor!
@@GarageFab BONDED!! That’s the word I was looking for… then I had to go and say “melted rubber blah blah blah” LMAO. Anyway, your video is perfectly clear as it pertains to exactly what you are talking about. My comment is more off-base, although related. I appreciate the great content on your channel and how clearly you explain it all!
@@GarageFab Oh I'm glad I came back to this video and read the comments, I am replacing OEM with MOOG OEM-like bushings and got spooked haha. Thanks for making the video and clarifying that, I had no idea there was a difference!
Yes Sir! Big difference! Bonded rubber bushings aren’t meant for large amounts of twisting movement. So after installing your new bushings, make sure you set the vehicle down before fully tightening up the bolts. That can be really hard especially if your vehicle is low, but your bushings will thank you.
I've never really built a full suspension but I have converted several different types to poly. All this seems very obvious to me but I guess I was learning on things that were pre-engineered. Thanks for the tip on where to get ends.
True. I think all the times I’ve seen mistakes where when people tried to make their own bushings. And once from a small company that sold custom control arms. They’re not in business anymore. 🤔
Fantastic video. Nice to see the inner working of something as simple as a bushing. I didn't know the inner sleeve shouldn't rotate. Learned something new! 😊
Yes your mostly correct. Engineering standards generally ask for no more and no less than 3 threads protruding after the assembly. So if you need to trim, use that as a guide!
@@GarageFab hey Toyota owner and mech engineer here...love this post and will follow you. I'm about to do RR bushings on an 05 Highlander....so I went down this protrusion rabbit hole and unless there's a chance equipment or people will get damaged, extra protrusion is no risk...seems there is an aspect of using #threads to do a verification of bolt stretch if the design needs it....other than that, have one thread if you wish. ...so long as you have full nut engagement when the assembly starts seeing load during tightening. Cheers from rusty upstate NY!
Best not to use polyurethane where you can avoid it, as it tends to transmit a lot more of the high frequency stuff, especially because sizing is usually not done well (ie; the intaller doesn't know what the forces are or the range of compliance needed). This is especially true of engine mounts, where lack of compliance can kill alternators etc. Compliance problems are usually worst around 4 bar linkages, with triangulated 4 bars needing lots of compliance to work... Normally it's better to go for parallel 4 bars plus a watts link, it gives better control, less compliance interference with suspension behaviours etc and is simpler to calculate loads. Similarly, the type of bushing you're demonstrating here has very little lateral bearing capacity, it only bears on the edges of the steel tubes, so lateral loads are a big no no and should be oriented purpendicular to the link tube (unlike the triangulated 4 bar demonstrated). Finally, bolted joints are considered to be failed when they slip, so the end of thread is (or should be) totally irrelevant, if it fails it's because it's slipped and failed under impact loads, resultant from the post failure movement. Size bolts so you've got at least one fully formed thread on the unloaded side of the bolted joint, but no other aspect is critical unless you're engaging onto the unformed threads of the shank, which WILL result in premature failure. The only parts involved in the joint behaviour should be the inner tube, clamped between the two flanges and the bolt it's self. The friction between the outer flanges and the tube are the only forces through which the joint should operate.
That was an insane amount of fascinating information. My biggest 😳 moment was alternator failure from poly engine mounts. What’s happening to cause that?! Thank you for taking the time to right all that. You are appreciated, Drew.
@@GarageFab thanks, I appreciate it. Poly engine mounts or rigid engine mounts can cause alternator failure because they don't absorb high frequency vibrations in the same way that traditional engine mounts do. You can get electronic or winding failure as a result of the increased fatigue loads. GM makes some awesome hydraulic engine mounts that are studded on both ends and are basically awesome as a universal mount (LS/LT mounts). And happy to help btw
Good info. I installed a triangulated 4 link on my truck. When I supported the truck with jack stands on the frame unloading the suspension, I could move the rear end side to side with my hands on the tires. The bushings were loose between the flanges after tightening to recommend torque. How should I correct this issue?
@@Jack-dm8lj are you fabbing the setup yourself? And are you particularly wedded to the idea of a triangulated 4 link? What do you want to use it for and how much travel do you want?
@@drew79s I purchased a kit from speedway. It is installed on a 1952 chevy pu. The brackets were cnc welded and made ready to attach to the frame and rear end housing. I removed the end links and shaved about a 16 of an inch off the inner sleeves. They tightened up nicely. Did I screw up? lol
I'm not expecting to be fabricating suspension components any time soon but this is just excellent automotive general knowledge regardless, along with a tonne more posted by experienced and knowledgeable folks in the comments. Great stuff, instant sub!
Some stock rubber bushings are fused to both sleeves and you can expect a short service life followed by a rear steering wobbling nightmare unless you make a provision for the bushing to pivot. A bronze sleeve between the bolt and slightly opened inner sleeve is a great mod when feasible. Early polyurethane bushings had a tendency on rare occasions to squeak but only while driving unless you ignored their instructions for no lubricant.
The bronze sleeve is a fascinating idea. Rubber bushings are great for absorbing road vibration but absolutely terrible on high travel bagged vehicles. I’m all about polyurethane but gotta admit your suggestion sounds interesting. Hire do you tighten the through bolt and keep it tight? 🤔
@@GarageFab I make the innermost bushing proud and on the second one onwards turned an o-ring groove on both ends of the bushing plus a clearance groove in the sleeve that allowed grease to completely fill the pivot and move any wear fragments over the o-ring. The improvement in lubrication with impregnated bronze as the bushing material and 0.020" of added clearance in the central part of the sleeve was enough to extend the service life to where it no longer needed to be replaced just greased with oil changes. This was on a 97 Pathfinder after wearing out the factory bushings plus an updated version and 2 polyurethane sets. It became a challenge.
Thank you. I was worried I was doing them wrong but I’ve been doing them exactly that way. Also just noticed the Keep Moving Forward sign very awesome.
Good on you thanks , working with suspension specialist yrs ago ,he would soak bolts in diesal before installing,and every one had hole after nut for split pin ,a fair amount of the work end up on race track ,when I asked about pins he said,it's the 2 dollar piece of mind factor
Very informative videos. I've done this for years and I know the tolerances need to be damn near perfect when dealing with rod ends and bushings. But, I like to see someone else out there that knows what they are doing also. Good videos man. Keep up the good teaching on all you do.
I came across this via the algorithim and just wow I learned so much in so little time. Now I feel like taking a second look at my suspension. I appreciate you making this video! Can you make another on asking your boss for another 1 month break? lol
Thanks for this information I have a old 85 cavalier with a rusted up subframe. A arm is alright. But had a buddy do some welding on it. I think I should take it back off and redo it. Thanks again
I was a heavy duty truck mechanic for most of my life. I've never fabricated suspension parts. I've never used urethane bushings just rubber press in bushing assemblies. Assemble suspension parts, lower vehicle to apply full weight to suspension, tighten center bushing bolt, the rubber bushings I used were not greasable. You just used a little grease on the outer metal sleeve to help when pressing bushing into the spring eye. I am aware of most of the points you are making, but the fact that you can/should grease urethane bushings was something I was not aware of.
From my understanding grease isn’t necessary from a longevity standpoint. They’ll operate just fine dry. Polyurethane is quite noisy. Imagine a group of balloon animals wrestling. The lube is simply to alleviate the hyper annoying squeak.
Yup thats exactly how i been doing them i use grade 8 black bolt with crimp nuts like factory nuts notice the lock washer will spread every once an awhile this is a great video for guys doing at home this video can save lives cuz suspension failure is critical
I really appreciate you specifying the SOURCE of all the information. Without that, all this would be just opinion. Another reason for going with grade 8 bolts (but this is just opinion) is that they have better coatings against rust. Am I wrong?
I honestly don’t know the answer to that! I know they’re coated, and I know it’s different than your typical zinc plating, but I don’t know what the difference is. I’ll have to look it up.
I just found your channel....Nice video! many years ago, someone said to me "never use anything less grade 8 on vehicles with stressed or weight bearing. Like the engine in my 1946 Harley knuckle-head. or my 1972 corvette. They are both old beaters, but the running gear is very tight.
Since terminology is important, the fitting where grease is introduced is called a hydraulic grease fitting😊. But everyone calls it a zero fitting. But this video is very well made, thank you.
I keep coming back to this video. It's super helpful. I'm thinking of making a swing arm tire carrier that bolts to the back wall of my trailer in 2 places and was debating going this route instead of a spindle on the bumper. I like this idea of using these bushings as a hinge instead but not sure if it would be too tight or hard to move. Obviously it would be stiffer than a spindle but maybe a gas strut would help with that.
Yes! They are indeed stiffer, but not difficult at all. As soon as you add some leverage (like a tire carrier), they’re fairly easy to maneuver. Their stiffness might even be a benefit as the tire carrier wouldn’t swing back by itself. It should stay wherever you leave it. Another option that I’ve been using lately has been machined shoulder bolts and bronze flange bushings (Oilite bushings) in DOM tubing. They resemble polyurethane bushings but way smaller, don’t allow any flex, (great for door hinges) and the stay lubed. Thank you for your return! 😆
Silicone based brake lube is one of the most underrated tools by a lot of mechanics. It's rubber and plastic safe. Being brake lube, it won't run when the temperature goes up. AND it really takes the fight out of hoses, o rings, or intake ducts. A very light coat on both surfaces and things usually just click into place.
Thank you! This is exactly what i needed to find tonight as im trying to fix a super duty traction bar that isnt available from the manufacturer anymore and the aftermarket isnt built correctly... 👍
This right here, clear info with reasoning that's east to understand. Also the engagement and pinned comment make this a clear win. Followed, thumbed, keep this coming. It's nice to see someone care about the details especially enough to acknowledge when a comment has merit to reinforce their point.
This is incredibly useful, thanks. Easy to garner a mistaken understanding of how bushes work so this clears those misconceptions up nicely. I am planning a smaller project, not a car but a powerful electric scooter, and the swing arm needs to be robustly fitted. What do you do if you’re rating a bushing for a smaller purpose, not truck-sized? Is there a rule of thumb?
I’m honestly not advanced enough to know how to determine what bushings are needed for various vehicles. I simply go off of my experience of previous projects. That one worked! Or that one didn’t! If I were building a scooter, I’d likely go with full size bushings. Unless you’re really paying attention to weight, I don’t think you could go wrong.
This was a great video! As for greasing the bolts, you are on the spot, makes no difference in operation but I always choose to grease the bolts when I assemble for corrosion protection. When it goes to engine mounts etc, especially in bikes , no seized bolts!
We’re spoiled here in the desert. If we see rust, we know that car came here from somewhere else. You can call it lazy, but we’re a nearly grease free society.
@@GarageFab you are very lucky! Here, and I mainly speak for ATVs, if you don't grease especially the rear arm axle bolts, you are going to have a very hard time when you will have to remove!
Some awesome advice and comments.... would just like to point out on the washer topic, high tensile lock washers don't and shouldn't wear and break open over time especially when installed the right way round which counts for flat washer aswell, yes they are designed to go a certain way that being flat side to contact surface. On flat washers aswell go the same way and we use them not only to spread load but also to absorb any tearing force from lock washer as it better to replace a washer instead of tabs.
Good info. On lock washers though, I’ve never noticed visible difference in the two sides. Flat washers however, I always put the “domed” side up, but only because I’m OCD. 😆
@GarageFab There is a difference in lock washers aswell as flat there is a rounded side and a flat side, the flat side always faces contact surface and rounded side facing torque surface thus being the nut or bolt
Dude! You are killing it! Clear, concise, all excelent info, no bs fluff. More RUclipsrs should take note. Thank you for all your hard work. Keep it up! A+. Subbed
Thanks for the information, I had to change the rear end in my Nissan Pathfinder because I was hit in the side right on the rear wheel and it bent the rear housing. When I tightened the bushings the nuts were self locking so I wasn't sure if the inner sleeve rotated around the bolt or not. I decided to go ahead and tighten the bolts since they were tight when I removed them. Now that I know that the bushing rotates around the inner sleeve I know I did it correctly.
Here’s a little additional info that I neglected to include in the video Dave. I’m assuming your bushings were factory, and if so, they’re probably bonded rubber. These type of bushings are still fully tightened as mentioned, but they should not be tightened until the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension. If you tighten them with the wheels off the ground, the bushings will twist when you set the vehicle down, and this will cause your bushings to tear prematurely. If this is the case, I would simply recommend loosening the bolts without lifting the truck and then tighten them again. The inner bushing should spring back to its natural position.
Great video as always. I am really liking the format of the shorter videos: it kinda makes them like tech tips. I do have a question though. You recommended tightening the bolts to their torque specs, but where would we find the torque specs for parts we custom fabricated? Should we use the specs for the leaf spring perches when tightening the link bars or something else? Any feedback would be great. Have a great weekend!
Hopefully I don’t lead you down the wrong path here. That’s probably a good question to ask several people. I find the torque specs for the specific bolt I’m using. It has very little to do with the component it’s being used on. (with some exception I’m sure) so the Grade 8 9/16 bolt I use has a recommended torque rating of around 110 foot pounds. Unless, of course, the component can be damaged, I can’t imagine there such thing as too tight. And you have a great week, Bryan! Thank you. 🙏
@@GarageFab thank you for that reply! I assumed it might have something to do with the bolts themselves, but I have never seen a bolt come with a torque spec. I could have just been looking at cheap bolts though, I suppose. I have a couple books That talk about that point but I haven’t got that far into them yet. I look forward to future videos man. Have a good week
Great video. Anytime you can give some knowledge about fabrication I am always interested. Your presentation style and ability to explain concepts in the simplest way make for great content. I don't feel talked down to or requiring my own shop to accomplish any task you present.
Yes! That means a lot, Jason. 🙏 Your final point has been my purpose for creating Garage Fab from the beginning; To show people big things can be accomplished in their own garage. Thank you for the kind words! 👊
@@GarageFab I need to do a control arm bushing procedure. If the cottor pin gets warped or destroyed from my extraction process, which cottor pin should I choose?
OMG. You answered by hard to answer questions perfectly! Im having a problem with a golf cart bushing where the bushing material seems pinched by the frame and the entire bushing material is rotating around the outer sleeve! I expect the inner bushing to rotate around bolt. I have tightened the bolt to the recommended torque. Thoughts? It creeks when the control arm is moved.
@2:39 Damn straight. I helped a friend put a lift kit on his Jeep, and we had to use a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts on each end of the factory bushing sleeves to get the control arms out. The bolts might as well been welded to the sleeves.
Toyota mechanics were the best in town during the 1980's when I was a young fella. I worked at a Toyota dealership after a Ford dealership and 2 years of mechanic Tech School. Before all that was a Navy Engineer for 6 years.
Dude this was so helpful, thank you. I redid the whole rear end suspension on one of my jeeps and I believe this to be the root of the issue! Is it possible to insert new bushings into a leaf spring and match the sleeve to the tab hole size? I completely replaced my shackle mounts on the body so they are non stock but I believe they are a hair bigger than stock which has gotten me into trouble with the clunking
Hey Jake! It should be possible. It’ll just be up to you to locate the inner sleeve material. Find the bushing that fits your springs and measure the hole in that bushing. That will be your sleeve outer diameter. Your bolt size (and the existing hole in the tabs) will be the sleeve inner diameter. For easy math sake, say the inner diameter of the poly bushing is 1 inch, and your bolt is 1/2 inch. A piece of 1 inch OD DOM tubing with 1/4 inch walls would be perfect. If you can’t find material to make the perfect sleeve, you may have to weld large washers to the inside of the tabs to put the tab holes back to factory size. Hope this helps! Best of luck my friend.
Before watching the whole video -- I paused it right after the terminology was explained -- It looks like the holes in the tabs are too big. The inner bushing falls right through them. When I've installed shocks, the inner sleeve also has teeth to dig into the inside of the tab. -- EDIT: BTW, excellent channel! I just discovered it. Liked and subscribed.
Good job, nice explanation. Just a couple of points…. You don’t need the shank to span the tabs. The bolt isn’t loaded in shear, it’s the friction from clamping everything together that stops things from moving, so the length of the shank doesn’t matter. If the bolt is loaded in shear you have a joint that is going to destroy itself pretty quickly. It might be a British/American thing but Rod end refers to a spherical joint (I think you call them Heim joints?). This is just a bushing. Cheers!
Agreed. I’ve learned a bit more myself since making this video. I honestly don’t know what the “correct” term is, but in my little circle of fabricators, all bar ends are bar ends but they’re specified when needed. Spherical bar ends (Heims), polyurethane bar ends, Johnny Joint bar ends, etc. Thank you my friend! 🙏
Well done, thorough explanation & how to on urethane bushing assy. I might suggest a complete coating of the through bolt w/ Neva Seize, rather than grease to prevent rust bonding of the bolt to the sleeve, if you live in a damp climate or your state uses ice melting chemicals on it's roads. Neva Seize doesn't seem to accumulate dirt as bad as grease & will last much longer than grease. I switched to the copper based version quite some time ago, it's slightly less messy, is supposed to perform better.
Hey ManKandy, You are the Man!! This is Exactly what I was looking for!! All the details to choose the right bushing, where to get it and how to make sure it’s installed correctly. I assume the tabs are 3/16 thick for a 50’s large car 4 link? Super Thanks 🙏 for all your videos, unbelievably helpful and so appreciated!!
Tab specifics might be a future video. I do in fact to use 3/16 inch plate, and if the tabs are more than 3 inches tall, I’ll connect the tabs with a backing plate. And if there will be sideways or diagonal forces like on a Triangulated 4 link, I’ll gusset the sides of the tabs. Hope that makes sense without visual aid. Thanks again brother!
Good info vid, thanks. My first rebush failed within a month. The body men asked "Didja lube 'em?" Crimson me said "Oh." That was an easy fix. Two 1990 F-150 rear leafs quiet once again. Dick Cepek parts had no installation tips sheet with them.
There are a lot of aftermarket parts like that. Not sure why. Perhaps they assume, “Dudes are gonna install this. Dudes throw out instructions so what’s the point.” Be aware that there are varying qualities of polyurethane as well. So grease with silicone based lubes and stick with reputable brands like Energy and Daystar.
I bought lower control arms from a reputable company that sent me decent rods, but the bushings had already failed before I even got them installed. Since there's a lifetime warranty on their parts, they actually sent me their revised beefier lower control arms. The problem then was the bolts I bought for the previous bushings wouldn't fit in the newer sleeves, so that's something to be wary of when it comes to reusing or replacing bolts.
I am not in this field (the video just popped up in my feed), but this video was very well presented. It made a subject that I am not intimately connected to both interesting and comprehensible. Subscribed.
That was exciting in so many ways! What do you normally watch on RUclips? It’s interesting something of mine is being promoted to folks not necessarily connected to the fabrication world. It’s even more exciting to hear you found it interesting not necessarily interested. Thank you! That meant a lot to me.
@@GarageFab This isn't exhaustive, of course. I just hope it gives you what you're looking for. It might have given you more than that, for better or worse. I don't usually comment like I did. Heck, I don't usually comment at all. But, as I said, your video stood out to me, and I'm glad you liked the acknowledgement of a job well done. You deserved it. I am aware that this comment is very long. I hope that it is worth reading. I watch a couple of different kinds of things. I"d have to sift through my subscriptions. The ones closest to this subject would probably be Garage 54 and SuperFastMatt. Colin Furze might qualify; at least his older stuff. They don't tend to go into that kind of detail, background, what people do wrong, etc., though, at least not usually. Not to knock them at all; obviously, I watch them; they just have a different focus. Your presentation just stood out in a good way. It was more about explaining the subject thoroughly than just using it as a part making a particular project work. There is room for all of your approaches. Other stuff I watch is a mishmash of small engine/HVAC/electrical/electronics repair videos. Taryl Fixes All is in there. Science/Maker stuff. Big Clive. AvE. This Old Tony. A small number of comedians, several of whom do sketch comedy where they play most or all of the characters. Tom Scott. A Fireman who does sketches describing crazy stuff he's seen on the job. His presentation is good, too. A little zany, but not stupid. Lots of other random stuff, of course. I also work on my cars, but that's repair, not fabrication, and I usually search for a video about what I need to fix, rather than subscribing to any particular channels. The exception to that is ToyotaMaintenance. I have subbed to other channels, but they just didn't flow right for me. Too long or repetitive or I don't remember what. It's been awhile. I watch a few political channels, but not a lot, because that stuff tends to become repetitive and burn me out. One of them, I unsubbed from because, even though I tend to agree with the guy ideologically, his format is insufferably clickbaity. Others just ramble on and on and on long after they've addressed the topic. A few of the electronics repair channels I watch have tended to get obnoxiously political at times, and that played a part in my decisions to unsub from two of them. Even if I agreed with their positions, that is not why I was watching the videos, and it would be boring at best.
Thank you for that! The time you spent penning that is valuable and I very much appreciate it. 🙏 Out of all those names, I recognized Colin Furze and SuperFastMatt. (who’s humor I adore) Looks like I have some homework to do. I can’t help but think your “click baitey” news guy is Tucker Carlson. I get offended easily when I feel like someone’s trying to manipulate me, and every one of his thumbnails lately gets ignored for that reason. You pointed out some really interesting things that I’ll remember. I have a rule that I won’t discuss religion or politics. Everyone should have their own opinion on those topics and their opinions shouldn’t be created or swayed by the opinions of others. What then is the purpose of discussing it? I’ve read about the importance of opening up to your viewers so they can get to know you on a more personal level, including political and religious beliefs. 😬 It sounded like bad advice yet I’ve been tempted to try it out. Your comment brought back my common sense. There are other ways to connect and politics has no purpose on an educational fabrication channel. Again! Thank you so very much, (Didn’t catch your name) Have a great evening. -Aaron PS. If you’ve got any “ToyotaMaintenance” questions, I’m a Toyota and Lexus certified tech of 18 years. 😉
@@GarageFab I don't watch Tucker Carlson, though I do watch people who point out how ridiculous he is being. The clickbaitey guy is Christo Aivalis. I was being vague so as to not alienate you in case we disagree politically. Politics and religion (which is sort of a specialized version of politics) tend to be really polarizing, even though they really don't have to be. Especially lately. American politics seems to be ridiculously close to 50/50. You'd run the risk of alienating nearly half of your audience for no good reason. I think you have chosen wisely, whatever your personal political/religious bents might be. My name is Lou. You have a great evening too. I'll keep the Toyota thing in mind if I can. Maybe it will spring to mind when I see your next video. My needs are modest; I'm just trying to keep a 2006 Camry going as long as I can. I just replaced the valve cover gasket and PCV valve. I replaced a broken torsion strut (upper motor mount), which was a piece of cake. Actually, I am a little concerned about a noise. It makes it when cold, especially when very cold, like 30F or less, and seems to go away when warm. It seems louder when under load, but that could just be a result of RPMs for all I know. The sound, itself, sounds kind of like valve lash to me. As opposed to, say, rod knock. I'm not a noise expert. I don't think it's ever so loud that the radio wouldn't drown it out if I had it on. The car runs fine, and the CEL is not on. Maybe old engines (100-150k miles, I think) just sound like that. Maybe it always has and I only started noticing it. I don't drive this car normally, my partner does. I asked a mechanic about it and they didn't notice anything. But, then, it may have been warm when they checked it. Oh, hey, when I took the coil packs out to replace the valve cover gasket, some of the plastic tabs on their connectors broke. 17 year old plastic in the top of a engine can be like that. Are those connector shells a commonly available and easily replaceable item, and can the pins be taken out of them and put into the replacements without having to reterminate them completely? Do I even need to replace them? They haven't fallen off yet, but if they do, the affected cylinder(s) will obviously not be firing, and it'll probably throw a misfire code.
Obviously, I can’t know for sure without putting my own ears on it, but it’s very likely valve lash is exactly what you’re hearing. The newer Toyotas have hydraulic valve lash adjusters that prevent noise as the engine wears. The 3.0 and 3.3 timing belt V6s have metal shims between the cam lobes and the valves. When the cams wear, space is created, and so is noise. As the engine heats up, metal components expand, and that very tiny gap shrinks. The only way of fixing this is to replace the shims with larger ones. A headache of a job, not to mention I am unsure if you can even get those shims anymore. So if it genuinely doesn’t bother you, ignore it. Or maybe try a slightly heavier weight oil. As for the coil pack connectors, I’m surprised you had clips to begin with! 😂 You can get replacement connectors from the dealer, de-pin the old connectors (can be challenging) and clip the pins into the new connector (in the correct order) OR! You can do as we do, and put a little dab of silicone sealant were the clip used to be. It holds the connector secure, while still allowing them to come off easily in the future. We used Toyota Brand FIPG (form in place gasket) but that stuff’s expensive. Silicone caulk or something similar would work just fine for that. Lastly, on that motor, if one coil pack fails, (or a connector backs off) you’ll get multiple codes for multiple cylinders even though only one coil pack is at fault. Thanks again Lou!!
Very great video, TIP= Grade 8 is great for street vehicles but the off-road guys in Baja stepped back to grade 5, This is because grade 8 and 10 will break in the desert on impact but grade 5 will bend. A bent bolt can continue the race and a broken bolt takes you out. Just something for your audience to think about for the application they are building for,
That’s fascinating! But it makes a lot of sense. Similar to sockets I guess. I was shocked to find out that impact sockets were actually SOFTER than chrome sockets. The softness allows them to flex and avoid cracking. Totally backwards from what I originally thought.
Working on this kinda stuff I always wondered about these questions. Thanks for making a video answering them! Professional help is hard to find on the internet haha
Great content ! I have always tried to have at least 1 1/2 thread showing through the nut after torquing and I always try to use grade 8 hardware for safety reasons ! Thank You 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
I don’t see why you’d need any more than that. A utility truck manufacturer I worked for required a minimum of a half inch protruding from the back end of the nut. Thanks for watching, Ferdinand!
I would be careful with using a bolt that has a shank that's the exact size of your tabs. Especially since the tabs will deform some when tightening. If you run out of threads your torque wrench will click off but the joint isn't necessary tight. The bolt sees a relatively low load because the bolt is tight(Joint stiffness ratio). If the bolt isn't able to provide enough preload to the inner sleeve then the bolt will see more load than it should. This is why you see bolt holes in tabs get egg shaped because the bolt wasn't tight enough. With that said if you use enough washers to make sure the nut has threads to grab on to then you are golden.
You just got yourself a pinned comment. I appreciate that. “Good point” would be an understatement.
Yea well non issue if you use a lock washer.
I'd rather use a thicker tab than a bunch of washers personally.
@@EricFixalot I certainly wouldn't stack lock washers on anything.
@@bw3506 True, maybe one on each side
Thank you for never assuming that your audience knows what the heck they’re doing. And, more to the point, for never adopting a patronizing attitude when you set things straight. Your build videos have been and continue to be tremendously helpful. Thanks for keeping up the standards and the humanity.
Thank you Jay! That means a lot to me. No one likes to feel stupid. Sometimes it’s a delicate dance to inform without insulting.
@@GarageFab You are much, much better at it than me lol, I can try my damndest to inform without intent of insult, but I don't succeed near as often as I wish I could.
@@rwbodiford Haha! Well it’s not often, but sometimes a little potentially insulting sternness goes a long way.
@@GarageFab Well said
What a fantastic video. No excess blabbering but straight to the point and everything presented in an easily understandable fashion.
Subscribed immediately, just starting on the first project car where I have to rebuild the entire suspension and this kind of info is priceless. Thanks you!
Yes!! I hope to see updates on this build! If you need guidance, you know where to find me!
I would agree great info and to the point. I’m in the process of doing this on my 88gt fiero it’s a resto build a barn find no motor. The car sat for 23 years. All the hardware for the suspension had to be cut off. Or it broke off and the. Had to be cut off. So poly upgrade it is. Your video help refresh my memory on installing them. Thanks.
Exactly. Very easy to follow and worth many more than one watches.
Great information, thank you. The difference between these and OEM is on an OEM bushing the rubber is bonded to both the inner and outer barrel. The only movement is the flex of the rubber between the inner and outer metal barrels. That's why when changing things like control arms, you don't torque them up until they are on the ground (or ramps) under their own weight. That way, you are tightening them up in a position in the middle of the suspension's range of motion: In full compression they twist one way, in full droop, they twist the other way. If you tightened them up fully while unladen in the air at full droop, they would be much more likely to tear at full compression because now you are asking the rubber to twist in one direction to cover the full range of the suspension's motion. the take-away: Tighten them while on the ground or they will tear quickly.
Excellent information, Brian. Thank you. You would be surprised how many “knowledgeable” technicians get this wrong.
I was looking for this comment. I've had this discussion with alot of my helpers. "Never tighten rubber suspension bushings with the vehicle jacked up". They won't last 6 months
Not always. Mazda leaf spring bushings have the inner sleeves bonded in but not the outer. They press into the leaf spring eyes and the bushings on the shackles ate not bonded to either. Same for square body chevy trucks and many others.
@@michaelwhite-oi1ft There are always minor exception. Older Grand Cherokees have bushing at the back of the lower A-arms that are bonded to their housings but not the part of the control arm that sides into it. But the front bushings in the same A-arms are fully bonded so you still have to have full weight on the suspension before you torque everything
While we’re at it, Toyota/Lexus also have bushings with bonded inner sleeves that press into an eye and are therefore not bonded on the outside. They are rubber, though, and are not lubricated so I follow the same tightening procedure.
Good video. I have fixed a few 'death wobble' trucks just by installing longer sleeves that lock down when the bolts are torqued. It's amazing how little movement in suspension will create such a large issue
Interesting! I’ve had a few people ask me how to fix death wobble, but I honestly haven’t really experienced it. It’s not a problem we see often in the mini truck world.
I’ll classify this as one of the best YT vids out there.
Actually very informative to people who don’t know, but also informs the people who THINK they know of proper techniques for safety and durability.
Bravo bro
Thank you Steven! That is quite the honor.
That’s what makes RUclips so great. You could learn something, even if you thought you already knew it, all in the privacy of your own mind. For those that struggle with self-worth, No one has to know they didn’t know something. Conflict-free learning!
Cheers my friend!
Dude! Fantastic video! I've replaced the suspension bushings on my whole truck myself, but I never before fully understood how the parts function as a set. I am so grateful for this video. You are an excellent teacher.
Thank you for the kind words my friend! Happy to be of service. 🙏
More than I ever expected to learn in my lifetime when it comes to bushings. Enjoyed it for sure.
Heck yes! Happy to be of service. Thank you, a Paul.
Just stumbled across the channel. Finally, somebody is making videos of the small details everyone else's leaves out that are so important. Major companies instructional videos always leave this out. They just say insert and tighten to spec without going into How it's supposed to function with the part that was just installed
Yes, I am a through bolt rust prevention greaser. Thanks. Great video to help everyone understand bushings, and how important it is to have them correctly built, and installed.
Haha! A bolt greaser! Something tells me you see snow once in a while. ❄️
@@GarageFab Welcome to the UK. Everything rusts this time of year. Every time I work on one of my cars the Mrs. asks why my cloths are covered in 'gold glitter'.
Haha! Excellent.
@@GarageFab can't stand anti seize and hate it with a passion it's trash.
CV joint grease works a heck of a lot better at least for me.
@@MrTheHillfolk What's wrong with anti-seize?
This is a spot on video! Everything he said is correct. I’m talking as a tool&die maker with 50+ years experience. Really well done! Thank you!
Thank you, David! That’s a joy to hear. I appreciate you my friend. 🙏
What a nice job of describing the correct way to mount a bushing assembly! The bushings I’m using specify white lithium grease in case anyone didn’t get that information with their bushings. I use drum brake bearing grease(stringy stiff grease) on the bolts and, a bit of red loctite in the nuts to make sure they stay put.
Good info! Thank you David. Much appreciated. 🙏
@@GarageFabv n x cm xn hmm xmZ vs
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This was an excellent video. Explaining not only what to do, but what not to do and why in an easy to understand manner without sounding patronizing. As others have said, that can be a tricky balance to find when teaching. Nicely done.
Thank you, Ken! 🙏
Yessss! Now that was a great and well articulated run down of suspension bushings and components. Even if you’re not fabricating and all you’re doing is installing bolt on components like mid or long travel kits this is something you should be aware of. Make sure the manufacturer is giving you quality parts
Yes!! So many people talk crap about certain types of suspension parts when really it’s just low quality stuff.
Thank you my friend!
You never know everything my father use to tell me and try to learn something new every day and i just did!!! You are a really good teacher my hat off to you! Thank you for your education and my learning. Joe
My pleasure, Joe! I couldn’t agree more with your Father. There’s no known limit to what the human mind can learn. It’s fun to try though! 👊
Of all the bushing videos I've seen, this is the only one that gives such specific details. Thank you for this!
My pleasure, Julio. Thank you for your time. 🙏
I like how at first you asked what's wrong. I didn't know what I was looking at, but as you went through it, I could start seeing what was wrong. It was so helpful!
Yes! Happy to help my friend. Thank you for that. 🙏
FINALLY, a person who KNOWS how to measure a BOLT. Fat too many mechanics tend to think the HEAD size is the size of the bolt and they usually get all bent out of shape when they ask for a 1/2" bolt when they are really after a 5/16" one.
Haha! I’m guilty of that at work. Interesting how my fab life and wrenching life don’t agree. While working on Toyotas with metric fasteners, if say I need a 14mm bolt, I’m NOT talking about the threads. 😂
If they don't know the difference between bolt size and head size, they are not mechanics!
@@GarageFab Eek !
Just bad practice , will bite you some day !
A couple of additional comments - when a ZERK grease point is used, make sure the sleeve is welded in a position where the nipple is accessable with the suspension member fitted to the vehicle - sometimes you can correct this with a 90 or 135 fitting, but not always.
If the fastener uses a castellated nut which takes a split pin, you can usually replace it with a stainless steel "R" clip - they won't rust in place and are easily removed, and they're re-useable.
Depending on the specific application, it may be wise to use a longer bolt than actually required and drill the end, after the retaining nut, for an "R" clip - it doesn't often happen, but if for some reason the nut loosens, the clip will prevent it falling completely off and so prevent the bolt backing out. If you have access, you can do the same thing with bolts into captive nuts.
Something I got from Justin* is to turn up some alloy spacers that are a close fit to the sleeves and use them instead of the 'plastic' insert when tacking parts together - ruclips.net/video/aIGTNU6hG2Q/видео.html
*He also has a lot of sound advice to compliment this gentleman's advice - www.youtube.com/@TheFabricatorSeries/featured
All good info! I like the idea of the R clips. Toyota uses those a lot and they’re really classy looking and, as you mentioned, reusable. I think I might have to incorporate those in some stuff soon.
Ah, Justin. Fellow Las Vegas fabby guy. Part of the reason I wanted to become a famous RUclips fabricator. 😉
Thank you Brother. 🙏
Thank you for pre-empting my "But of course I grease the bolts, because I want to be able to get them back out again some day" comment. :D You're the bomb, dude. :D
Haha! Oh the joys of living in the desert.
@@GarageFab I mean... better the desert than somewhere that rust happens, but yeah, I've definitely had rubber bushings weld themselves to bolts shafts, even living in the 'Burque.
Best teacher on the web man!!
🙏 Thank you my man!
Agreed
I would agree with that statement!!
Hell yeah🫡
@@soltribeprojects2055 Thank you friends. 🙏 I’m honored.
I was checking up on intake manifolds for my Toyota engine, and then your video came up, recommended by the RUclips algorithm.
As much as I am an idiot when it comes to bushings - your video provided great insights and a concise explanation on what bushings should be.
Also, thumbs up to hearing from a Toyota-certified professional!
Thank you from Singapore!
That was a really good video! I watched all 6 minutes and 52 seconds, thank you for making everything all nice and concise :D
My pleasure Nick! Thank you for donating your 6 minutes and 52 seconds. 🙏
See you next time!
It may sound inappropriate for some but… you’re like a god for me when it comes to this area of expertise. Amen! …and thank you, yet again!
Haha! I think that implies that I am a guru of sorts. I’m definitely not that. I only have a firm grasp on the basics, and a willingness to share the little bit that I know. There are people that know far more than I do, just finding ones that teach can be a challenge.
Regardless, thank you Michał! So very happy to have you.
Exactly why I follow and watch your content, I don't want to just know what works, BUT WHY IT WORKS.
As always, super informative, intelligently simple and concise. A++
Ah! We were cut from the same cloth. There is nothing more important than the WHY! Thank you my friend. 🙏 See you in the next.
Wow! So cool to hear you reference Max. He explained how an engine worked in the back of class when we were in high school. Awesome guy.
That sounds like him! It’s interesting… I’ve never met the guy yet I feel and talk like I know him. Prolly creepy now that I say it out loud. 😳
This probably only applies to the after-market polyurethane bushings. Most OEM bushings are basically melted rubber that is stuck to both the inner and outer sleeves. Then it becomes important to tighten these bushings with the control arm at rest or “normal ride height” or the bushing will be twisted when the vehicle is on the ground.
You are correct Victor. I probably should have made that more clear. It’s surprising how often I see technicians installing control arms with bonded rubber bushings and tightening up the bolts on the lift. 🤦🏻♂️
With polyurethane bushings, the sleeve is not bonded and is designed to slip, so it doesn’t matter when you tighten the bolts.
Thank you Victor!
@@GarageFab BONDED!! That’s the word I was looking for… then I had to go and say “melted rubber blah blah blah” LMAO. Anyway, your video is perfectly clear as it pertains to exactly what you are talking about. My comment is more off-base, although related. I appreciate the great content on your channel and how clearly you explain it all!
I appreciate you back, Victor! Cheers.
@@GarageFab Oh I'm glad I came back to this video and read the comments, I am replacing OEM with MOOG OEM-like bushings and got spooked haha. Thanks for making the video and clarifying that, I had no idea there was a difference!
Yes Sir! Big difference! Bonded rubber bushings aren’t meant for large amounts of twisting movement. So after installing your new bushings, make sure you set the vehicle down before fully tightening up the bolts. That can be really hard especially if your vehicle is low, but your bushings will thank you.
You are the Dr. House of Suspension Fabrication
I appreciate that, Tim! But actually I’m just a guy with a RUclips channel pretending to be knowledgeable.
Thank you for watching my friend!
I've never really built a full suspension but I have converted several different types to poly. All this seems very obvious to me but I guess I was learning on things that were pre-engineered. Thanks for the tip on where to get ends.
True. I think all the times I’ve seen mistakes where when people tried to make their own bushings. And once from a small company that sold custom control arms. They’re not in business anymore. 🤔
Finally someone explains it. This topic has driven me crazy dealing with 4x4's, low riders, etc. It's always fooked.
Haha! Happy to help, Brock. Thanks for watching.
Escellent video again. You keep addressing things that I am currently dealing with. Love it.
Interesting! Is it possible you have a creepy RUclipsr stalker? Just kidding. I’m not the type to look in peoples windows. Usually.
@@GarageFab That's why I keep the blinds shut.
Fantastic video. Nice to see the inner working of something as simple as a bushing. I didn't know the inner sleeve shouldn't rotate. Learned something new! 😊
Thank you Jaydon! 👊
Yes your mostly correct. Engineering standards generally ask for no more and no less than 3 threads protruding after the assembly. So if you need to trim, use that as a guide!
This is the first time I’ve heard “no more than 3 threads” aside from aesthetics. What’s the reason for avoiding, say, 8 threads?
@@GarageFab wasted material. Think about the extra 0.0005 cents that could cost per year!
@@GarageFab hey Toyota owner and mech engineer here...love this post and will follow you. I'm about to do RR bushings on an 05 Highlander....so I went down this protrusion rabbit hole and unless there's a chance equipment or people will get damaged, extra protrusion is no risk...seems there is an aspect of using #threads to do a verification of bolt stretch if the design needs it....other than that, have one thread if you wish. ...so long as you have full nut engagement when the assembly starts seeing load during tightening. Cheers from rusty upstate NY!
That’s good info! Happy to have you my friend.
Best not to use polyurethane where you can avoid it, as it tends to transmit a lot more of the high frequency stuff, especially because sizing is usually not done well (ie; the intaller doesn't know what the forces are or the range of compliance needed). This is especially true of engine mounts, where lack of compliance can kill alternators etc.
Compliance problems are usually worst around 4 bar linkages, with triangulated 4 bars needing lots of compliance to work... Normally it's better to go for parallel 4 bars plus a watts link, it gives better control, less compliance interference with suspension behaviours etc and is simpler to calculate loads.
Similarly, the type of bushing you're demonstrating here has very little lateral bearing capacity, it only bears on the edges of the steel tubes, so lateral loads are a big no no and should be oriented purpendicular to the link tube (unlike the triangulated 4 bar demonstrated).
Finally, bolted joints are considered to be failed when they slip, so the end of thread is (or should be) totally irrelevant, if it fails it's because it's slipped and failed under impact loads, resultant from the post failure movement. Size bolts so you've got at least one fully formed thread on the unloaded side of the bolted joint, but no other aspect is critical unless you're engaging onto the unformed threads of the shank, which WILL result in premature failure. The only parts involved in the joint behaviour should be the inner tube, clamped between the two flanges and the bolt it's self. The friction between the outer flanges and the tube are the only forces through which the joint should operate.
That was an insane amount of fascinating information. My biggest 😳 moment was alternator failure from poly engine mounts. What’s happening to cause that?!
Thank you for taking the time to right all that. You are appreciated, Drew.
@@GarageFab thanks, I appreciate it.
Poly engine mounts or rigid engine mounts can cause alternator failure because they don't absorb high frequency vibrations in the same way that traditional engine mounts do. You can get electronic or winding failure as a result of the increased fatigue loads.
GM makes some awesome hydraulic engine mounts that are studded on both ends and are basically awesome as a universal mount (LS/LT mounts).
And happy to help btw
Good info. I installed a triangulated 4 link on my truck. When I supported the truck with jack stands on the frame unloading the suspension, I could move the rear end side to side with my hands on the tires. The bushings were loose between the flanges after tightening to recommend torque. How should I correct this issue?
@@Jack-dm8lj are you fabbing the setup yourself? And are you particularly wedded to the idea of a triangulated 4 link? What do you want to use it for and how much travel do you want?
@@drew79s I purchased a kit from speedway. It is installed on a 1952 chevy pu. The brackets were cnc welded and made ready to attach to the frame and rear end housing. I removed the end links and shaved about a 16 of an inch off the inner sleeves. They tightened up nicely. Did I screw up? lol
I'm not expecting to be fabricating suspension components any time soon but this is just excellent automotive general knowledge regardless, along with a tonne more posted by experienced and knowledgeable folks in the comments. Great stuff, instant sub!
Some stock rubber bushings are fused to both sleeves and you can expect a short service life followed by a rear steering wobbling nightmare unless you make a provision for the bushing to pivot. A bronze sleeve between the bolt and slightly opened inner sleeve is a great mod when feasible. Early polyurethane bushings had a tendency on rare occasions to squeak but only while driving unless you ignored their instructions for no lubricant.
The bronze sleeve is a fascinating idea. Rubber bushings are great for absorbing road vibration but absolutely terrible on high travel bagged vehicles. I’m all about polyurethane but gotta admit your suggestion sounds interesting. Hire do you tighten the through bolt and keep it tight? 🤔
@@GarageFab I make the innermost bushing proud and on the second one onwards turned an o-ring groove on both ends of the bushing plus a clearance groove in the sleeve that allowed grease to completely fill the pivot and move any wear fragments over the o-ring. The improvement in lubrication with impregnated bronze as the bushing material and 0.020" of added clearance in the central part of the sleeve was enough to extend the service life to where it no longer needed to be replaced just greased with oil changes. This was on a 97 Pathfinder after wearing out the factory bushings plus an updated version and 2 polyurethane sets. It became a challenge.
Thank you. I was worried I was doing them wrong but I’ve been doing them exactly that way. Also just noticed the Keep Moving Forward sign very awesome.
Yes! Thank you Kevin. 🙏 Keep an eye on the sign. I’ve got some interesting plans in mind for it.
@@GarageFab 👊🏻awesome
I feel like I just met the Chuck Norris of suspension or something.👽
Good on you thanks , working with suspension specialist yrs ago ,he would soak bolts in diesal before installing,and every one had hole after nut for split pin ,a fair amount of the work end up on race track ,when I asked about pins he said,it's the 2 dollar piece of mind factor
I would never disagree with peace of mind! Going the extra mile rarely causes problems. Thank you, Jeffrey!
Absolutely enjoy it when the smart people are annoyed.🤣✌😁
As do I Jason! Nothing better than getting comments from the annoyed smart people though. Very fulfilling!
Very informative videos. I've done this for years and I know the tolerances need to be damn near perfect when dealing with rod ends and bushings. But, I like to see someone else out there that knows what they are doing also. Good videos man. Keep up the good teaching on all you do.
Thank You, Daniel! I appreciate your kind words. 🍻
I came across this via the algorithim and just wow I learned so much in so little time. Now I feel like taking a second look at my suspension. I appreciate you making this video! Can you make another on asking your boss for another 1 month break? lol
Thank you my friend! Happy to help.
Yes! I’ll start immediately on the video, “How to Write a Two-Week Notice” 🙌
Thanks for this information
I have a old 85 cavalier with a rusted up subframe. A arm is alright. But had a buddy do some welding on it. I think I should take it back off and redo it. Thanks again
My pleasure Marty. Lemme know how things go!
I was a heavy duty truck mechanic for most of my life. I've never fabricated suspension parts. I've never used urethane bushings just rubber press in bushing assemblies. Assemble suspension parts, lower vehicle to apply full weight to suspension, tighten center bushing bolt, the rubber bushings I used were not greasable. You just used a little grease on the outer metal sleeve to help when pressing bushing into the spring eye.
I am aware of most of the points you are making, but the fact that you can/should grease urethane bushings was something I was not aware of.
From my understanding grease isn’t necessary from a longevity standpoint. They’ll operate just fine dry. Polyurethane is quite noisy.
Imagine a group of balloon animals wrestling.
The lube is simply to alleviate the hyper annoying squeak.
Yup thats exactly how i been doing them i use grade 8 black bolt with crimp nuts like factory nuts notice the lock washer will spread every once an awhile this is a great video for guys doing at home this video can save lives cuz suspension failure is critical
Very much appreciated, Jessica! Share with someone you think would benefit! Cheers.
Great job on the video. I didn't know that you had to use a certain kind of grease on polyurethane. Thanks!
I didn’t either! 😳 😆
Thank you, Clint!
I really appreciate you specifying the SOURCE of all the information. Without that, all this would be just opinion.
Another reason for going with grade 8 bolts (but this is just opinion) is that they have better coatings against rust. Am I wrong?
I honestly don’t know the answer to that! I know they’re coated, and I know it’s different than your typical zinc plating, but I don’t know what the difference is. I’ll have to look it up.
I just found your channel....Nice video! many years ago, someone said to me "never use anything less grade 8 on vehicles with stressed or weight bearing. Like the engine in my 1946 Harley knuckle-head. or my 1972 corvette. They are both old beaters, but the running gear is very tight.
Since terminology is important, the fitting where grease is introduced is called a hydraulic grease fitting😊. But everyone calls it a zero fitting. But this video is very well made, thank you.
assuming a typo "zerk"
I keep coming back to this video. It's super helpful. I'm thinking of making a swing arm tire carrier that bolts to the back wall of my trailer in 2 places and was debating going this route instead of a spindle on the bumper. I like this idea of using these bushings as a hinge instead but not sure if it would be too tight or hard to move. Obviously it would be stiffer than a spindle but maybe a gas strut would help with that.
Yes! They are indeed stiffer, but not difficult at all. As soon as you add some leverage (like a tire carrier), they’re fairly easy to maneuver. Their stiffness might even be a benefit as the tire carrier wouldn’t swing back by itself. It should stay wherever you leave it.
Another option that I’ve been using lately has been machined shoulder bolts and bronze flange bushings (Oilite bushings) in DOM tubing. They resemble polyurethane bushings but way smaller, don’t allow any flex, (great for door hinges) and the stay lubed.
Thank you for your return! 😆
this is a vid every mini trucker needs to watch and some need to watch twice hahah . good work sir !
Yes Sir! I made it just so I could watch it whenever I started a new build. 😂 Thank you, Ken!
Excellent educational vid. After seeing your video I immediately can see what is wrong with the installation before your vid. Great job!
Very nice! Thank you Bret. 🙏
Agreed on Thorbros bushings, they make it super easy. What's your camera setup? Your videos look GREAT 👍
I’ve honestly never used anything other than Thorbros. That’s a lie. I used SuicideDoors.com a few times.
The with of the outside of the bushing you measured was 2 9/16" I didn't see that on the list .🤪🤔 .awesome video
Good catch! Must be estimates in the list then.
Silicone based brake lube is one of the most underrated tools by a lot of mechanics. It's rubber and plastic safe.
Being brake lube, it won't run when the temperature goes up. AND it really takes the fight out of hoses, o rings, or intake ducts. A very light coat on both surfaces and things usually just click into place.
Thank you! This is exactly what i needed to find tonight as im trying to fix a super duty traction bar that isnt available from the manufacturer anymore and the aftermarket isnt built correctly... 👍
Nice! Lemme know how it goes. I’m here if you need further guidance. 👍
Good to know. I've been working on/building vehicles for forty plus years and no one bothered to tell me this. Thanks.
My pleasure, Gary! I’m also still learning stuff daily.
Just found this video randomly, I automatically subscribed after watching.
Happy you found us! See you in the next 👊
Explained very well I’ve run into that myself I’ve been working on cars for 40 years and working on peoples mistakes
Thank you my friend! 🙏
Great simple terms to convey an understanding of this. One short video and you got yourself another subscriber.
Welcome to the channel my friend! Thank you! See you in the next.
(Love your RUclips name by the way.)
Please take a moment to appreciate the transition effects in the video... bravo!
Glad someone noticed August! Thank you, my friend! 🙏
Finally learned something very simple I thought I knew, until I watched this video. Thank you bro! Keep it up.
This right here, clear info with reasoning that's east to understand. Also the engagement and pinned comment make this a clear win. Followed, thumbed, keep this coming. It's nice to see someone care about the details especially enough to acknowledge when a comment has merit to reinforce their point.
This is incredibly useful, thanks. Easy to garner a mistaken understanding of how bushes work so this clears those misconceptions up nicely. I am planning a smaller project, not a car but a powerful electric scooter, and the swing arm needs to be robustly fitted. What do you do if you’re rating a bushing for a smaller purpose, not truck-sized? Is there a rule of thumb?
I’m honestly not advanced enough to know how to determine what bushings are needed for various vehicles. I simply go off of my experience of previous projects. That one worked! Or that one didn’t! If I were building a scooter, I’d likely go with full size bushings. Unless you’re really paying attention to weight, I don’t think you could go wrong.
I was taught to give everything a solid coating of anti-seize. When your replacing bushings, you can tell a huge difference on disassembly
If you’re anywhere rust lives. Yes. Absolutely. Coat it up!!
Here in Vegas, anti-seize or grease will just be really really annoying.
This was a great video!
As for greasing the bolts, you are on the spot, makes no difference in operation but I always choose to grease the bolts when I assemble for corrosion protection.
When it goes to engine mounts etc, especially in bikes , no seized bolts!
We’re spoiled here in the desert. If we see rust, we know that car came here from somewhere else. You can call it lazy, but we’re a nearly grease free society.
@@GarageFab you are very lucky!
Here, and I mainly speak for ATVs, if you don't grease especially the rear arm axle bolts, you are going to have a very hard time when you will have to remove!
I believe it! 😆
Some awesome advice and comments.... would just like to point out on the washer topic, high tensile lock washers don't and shouldn't wear and break open over time especially when installed the right way round which counts for flat washer aswell, yes they are designed to go a certain way that being flat side to contact surface. On flat washers aswell go the same way and we use them not only to spread load but also to absorb any tearing force from lock washer as it better to replace a washer instead of tabs.
Good info. On lock washers though, I’ve never noticed visible difference in the two sides. Flat washers however, I always put the “domed” side up, but only because I’m OCD. 😆
@GarageFab There is a difference in lock washers aswell as flat there is a rounded side and a flat side, the flat side always faces contact surface and rounded side facing torque surface thus being the nut or bolt
Dude! You are killing it! Clear, concise, all excelent info, no bs fluff. More RUclipsrs should take note.
Thank you for all your hard work. Keep it up!
A+. Subbed
Thank you my friend! Thrilled to have you. See you in the next!
Thanks for the information, I had to change the rear end in my Nissan Pathfinder because I was hit in the side right on the rear wheel and it bent the rear housing. When I tightened the bushings the nuts were self locking so I wasn't sure if the inner sleeve rotated around the bolt or not. I decided to go ahead and tighten the bolts since they were tight when I removed them. Now that I know that the bushing rotates around the inner sleeve I know I did it correctly.
Here’s a little additional info that I neglected to include in the video Dave.
I’m assuming your bushings were factory, and if so, they’re probably bonded rubber. These type of bushings are still fully tightened as mentioned, but they should not be tightened until the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension. If you tighten them with the wheels off the ground, the bushings will twist when you set the vehicle down, and this will cause your bushings to tear prematurely.
If this is the case, I would simply recommend loosening the bolts without lifting the truck and then tighten them again. The inner bushing should spring back to its natural position.
I think back to this video on occasion, and am glad it popped up in my feed again. Thank you for teaching us.
My pleasure Danny! Thank you for your repeated attention.
You are helping many be much less bad at what they do. This PSA brought to you by MANKANDY!
Hahaha! “Less bad”. That’s the goal. Thank you!
Excellent and informative videos. Very exciting channel to find!
Thanks for not making things longer than necessary to hit the 10 minute-mark!
My pleasure, Brandon! Thank you for watching.
One youtuber to another ...Just a fantastic job at explaining it ,,,
Much appreciated my friend! 👊
Another of the most useful videos I've ever seen, and the other one was your u-joint video. AMAZINGLY GOOD content!!
Thank you my friend! That means a lot to me. 🙏 ❤️
Great video as always. I am really liking the format of the shorter videos: it kinda makes them like tech tips. I do have a question though. You recommended tightening the bolts to their torque specs, but where would we find the torque specs for parts we custom fabricated? Should we use the specs for the leaf spring perches when tightening the link bars or something else? Any feedback would be great. Have a great weekend!
Hopefully I don’t lead you down the wrong path here. That’s probably a good question to ask several people. I find the torque specs for the specific bolt I’m using. It has very little to do with the component it’s being used on. (with some exception I’m sure) so the Grade 8 9/16 bolt I use has a recommended torque rating of around 110 foot pounds. Unless, of course, the component can be damaged, I can’t imagine there such thing as too tight.
And you have a great week, Bryan! Thank you. 🙏
@@GarageFab thank you for that reply! I assumed it might have something to do with the bolts themselves, but I have never seen a bolt come with a torque spec. I could have just been looking at cheap bolts though, I suppose. I have a couple books That talk about that point but I haven’t got that far into them yet. I look forward to future videos man. Have a good week
Great video. Anytime you can give some knowledge about fabrication I am always interested. Your presentation style and ability to explain concepts in the simplest way make for great content. I don't feel talked down to or requiring my own shop to accomplish any task you present.
Yes! That means a lot, Jason. 🙏 Your final point has been my purpose for creating Garage Fab from the beginning; To show people big things can be accomplished in their own garage.
Thank you for the kind words! 👊
@@GarageFab I need to do a control arm bushing procedure. If the cottor pin gets warped or destroyed from my extraction process, which cottor pin should I choose?
OMG. You answered by hard to answer questions perfectly! Im having a problem with a golf cart bushing where the bushing material seems pinched by the frame and the entire bushing material is rotating around the outer sleeve! I expect the inner bushing to rotate around bolt. I have tightened the bolt to the recommended torque. Thoughts? It creeks when the control arm is moved.
It sounds like bushing sizes might be incorrect or perhaps they’re just worn.
Any chance you can shoot me a photo?
GarageFab702@gmail.com
Awsome clear and concise video. Thank you! I've never built a suspension, but I plan on building jeep wrangler just with a frame and a tub
Thank you! Sounds like a fun project. If you need guidance, you know where to find me. Best of luck!
@2:39 Damn straight. I helped a friend put a lift kit on his Jeep, and we had to use a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts on each end of the factory bushing sleeves to get the control arms out. The bolts might as well been welded to the sleeves.
Yup! We’ve had a few 4Runners come to our desert oasis from somewhere a little more rusty and we’ve had to do exactly that.
Toyota mechanics were the best in town during the 1980's when I was a young fella. I worked at a Toyota dealership after a Ford dealership and 2 years of mechanic Tech School. Before all that was a Navy Engineer for 6 years.
We Toyota mechanics are still amazing. 😉 Sounds like you’ve had all kinds of experience!
Dude this was so helpful, thank you. I redid the whole rear end suspension on one of my jeeps and I believe this to be the root of the issue! Is it possible to insert new bushings into a leaf spring and match the sleeve to the tab hole size? I completely replaced my shackle mounts on the body so they are non stock but I believe they are a hair bigger than stock which has gotten me into trouble with the clunking
Hey Jake! It should be possible. It’ll just be up to you to locate the inner sleeve material. Find the bushing that fits your springs and measure the hole in that bushing. That will be your sleeve outer diameter. Your bolt size (and the existing hole in the tabs) will be the sleeve inner diameter. For easy math sake, say the inner diameter of the poly bushing is 1 inch, and your bolt is 1/2 inch. A piece of 1 inch OD DOM tubing with 1/4 inch walls would be perfect.
If you can’t find material to make the perfect sleeve, you may have to weld large washers to the inside of the tabs to put the tab holes back to factory size.
Hope this helps! Best of luck my friend.
Before watching the whole video -- I paused it right after the terminology was explained -- It looks like the holes in the tabs are too big. The inner bushing falls right through them. When I've installed shocks, the inner sleeve also has teeth to dig into the inside of the tab. -- EDIT: BTW, excellent channel! I just discovered it. Liked and subscribed.
Bingo. Toyota also uses those toothed sleeves. 🙌
Like the way you add the 'why' behind the what to do and not to do.
Thank you Michael! The holy why has long been the most important thing to me. It makes confusing topics far easier to grasp and easier to remember.
Cool tips! I will say you always want the unthreaded part on a bushing. The threads will bite into and wear out the bushing over time and create play.
Good job, nice explanation.
Just a couple of points….
You don’t need the shank to span the tabs. The bolt isn’t loaded in shear, it’s the friction from clamping everything together that stops things from moving, so the length of the shank doesn’t matter. If the bolt is loaded in shear you have a joint that is going to destroy itself pretty quickly.
It might be a British/American thing but Rod end refers to a spherical joint (I think you call them Heim joints?). This is just a bushing.
Cheers!
Agreed. I’ve learned a bit more myself since making this video.
I honestly don’t know what the “correct” term is, but in my little circle of fabricators, all bar ends are bar ends but they’re specified when needed. Spherical bar ends (Heims), polyurethane bar ends, Johnny Joint bar ends, etc.
Thank you my friend! 🙏
@@GarageFab 👍
Well done, thorough explanation & how to on urethane bushing assy. I might suggest a complete coating of the through bolt w/ Neva Seize, rather than grease to prevent rust bonding of the bolt to the sleeve, if you live in a damp climate or your state uses ice melting chemicals on it's roads.
Neva Seize doesn't seem to accumulate dirt as bad as grease & will last much longer than grease. I switched to the copper based version quite some time ago, it's slightly less messy, is supposed to perform better.
Hey ManKandy, You are the Man!! This is Exactly what I was looking for!! All the details to choose the right bushing, where to get it and how to make sure it’s installed correctly. I assume the tabs are 3/16 thick for a 50’s large car 4 link? Super Thanks 🙏 for all your videos, unbelievably helpful and so appreciated!!
Tab specifics might be a future video. I do in fact to use 3/16 inch plate, and if the tabs are more than 3 inches tall, I’ll connect the tabs with a backing plate. And if there will be sideways or diagonal forces like on a Triangulated 4 link, I’ll gusset the sides of the tabs. Hope that makes sense without visual aid.
Thanks again brother!
Perfect, Thanks 👍👍🙏🙏
Good info vid, thanks.
My first rebush failed within a month. The body men asked "Didja lube 'em?" Crimson me said "Oh." That was an easy fix. Two 1990 F-150 rear leafs quiet once again. Dick Cepek parts had no installation tips sheet with them.
There are a lot of aftermarket parts like that. Not sure why. Perhaps they assume, “Dudes are gonna install this. Dudes throw out instructions so what’s the point.”
Be aware that there are varying qualities of polyurethane as well. So grease with silicone based lubes and stick with reputable brands like Energy and Daystar.
I bought lower control arms from a reputable company that sent me decent rods, but the bushings had already failed before I even got them installed. Since there's a lifetime warranty on their parts, they actually sent me their revised beefier lower control arms. The problem then was the bolts I bought for the previous bushings wouldn't fit in the newer sleeves, so that's something to be wary of when it comes to reusing or replacing bolts.
I have never heard of bushings sailing before install! 🤦🏻♂️ What “reputable” company was this?
So did you get everything figured out?
I am not in this field (the video just popped up in my feed), but this video was very well presented. It made a subject that I am not intimately connected to both interesting and comprehensible. Subscribed.
That was exciting in so many ways! What do you normally watch on RUclips? It’s interesting something of mine is being promoted to folks not necessarily connected to the fabrication world.
It’s even more exciting to hear you found it interesting not necessarily interested. Thank you! That meant a lot to me.
@@GarageFab This isn't exhaustive, of course. I just hope it gives you what you're looking for. It might have given you more than that, for better or worse. I don't usually comment like I did. Heck, I don't usually comment at all. But, as I said, your video stood out to me, and I'm glad you liked the acknowledgement of a job well done. You deserved it. I am aware that this comment is very long. I hope that it is worth reading.
I watch a couple of different kinds of things. I"d have to sift through my subscriptions. The ones closest to this subject would probably be Garage 54 and SuperFastMatt. Colin Furze might qualify; at least his older stuff. They don't tend to go into that kind of detail, background, what people do wrong, etc., though, at least not usually. Not to knock them at all; obviously, I watch them; they just have a different focus. Your presentation just stood out in a good way. It was more about explaining the subject thoroughly than just using it as a part making a particular project work. There is room for all of your approaches.
Other stuff I watch is a mishmash of small engine/HVAC/electrical/electronics repair videos. Taryl Fixes All is in there. Science/Maker stuff. Big Clive. AvE. This Old Tony. A small number of comedians, several of whom do sketch comedy where they play most or all of the characters. Tom Scott. A Fireman who does sketches describing crazy stuff he's seen on the job. His presentation is good, too. A little zany, but not stupid. Lots of other random stuff, of course.
I also work on my cars, but that's repair, not fabrication, and I usually search for a video about what I need to fix, rather than subscribing to any particular channels. The exception to that is ToyotaMaintenance. I have subbed to other channels, but they just didn't flow right for me. Too long or repetitive or I don't remember what. It's been awhile.
I watch a few political channels, but not a lot, because that stuff tends to become repetitive and burn me out. One of them, I unsubbed from because, even though I tend to agree with the guy ideologically, his format is insufferably clickbaity. Others just ramble on and on and on long after they've addressed the topic. A few of the electronics repair channels I watch have tended to get obnoxiously political at times, and that played a part in my decisions to unsub from two of them. Even if I agreed with their positions, that is not why I was watching the videos, and it would be boring at best.
Thank you for that! The time you spent penning that is valuable and I very much appreciate it. 🙏
Out of all those names, I recognized Colin Furze and SuperFastMatt. (who’s humor I adore) Looks like I have some homework to do. I can’t help but think your “click baitey” news guy is Tucker Carlson. I get offended easily when I feel like someone’s trying to manipulate me, and every one of his thumbnails lately gets ignored for that reason.
You pointed out some really interesting things that I’ll remember. I have a rule that I won’t discuss religion or politics. Everyone should have their own opinion on those topics and their opinions shouldn’t be created or swayed by the opinions of others. What then is the purpose of discussing it?
I’ve read about the importance of opening up to your viewers so they can get to know you on a more personal level, including political and religious beliefs. 😬
It sounded like bad advice yet I’ve been tempted to try it out. Your comment brought back my common sense. There are other ways to connect and politics has no purpose on an educational fabrication channel.
Again! Thank you so very much, (Didn’t catch your name)
Have a great evening.
-Aaron
PS. If you’ve got any “ToyotaMaintenance” questions, I’m a Toyota and Lexus certified tech of 18 years. 😉
@@GarageFab I don't watch Tucker Carlson, though I do watch people who point out how ridiculous he is being. The clickbaitey guy is Christo Aivalis. I was being vague so as to not alienate you in case we disagree politically.
Politics and religion (which is sort of a specialized version of politics) tend to be really polarizing, even though they really don't have to be. Especially lately. American politics seems to be ridiculously close to 50/50. You'd run the risk of alienating nearly half of your audience for no good reason. I think you have chosen wisely, whatever your personal political/religious bents might be.
My name is Lou. You have a great evening too.
I'll keep the Toyota thing in mind if I can. Maybe it will spring to mind when I see your next video. My needs are modest; I'm just trying to keep a 2006 Camry going as long as I can. I just replaced the valve cover gasket and PCV valve. I replaced a broken torsion strut (upper motor mount), which was a piece of cake.
Actually, I am a little concerned about a noise. It makes it when cold, especially when very cold, like 30F or less, and seems to go away when warm. It seems louder when under load, but that could just be a result of RPMs for all I know. The sound, itself, sounds kind of like valve lash to me. As opposed to, say, rod knock. I'm not a noise expert. I don't think it's ever so loud that the radio wouldn't drown it out if I had it on. The car runs fine, and the CEL is not on. Maybe old engines (100-150k miles, I think) just sound like that. Maybe it always has and I only started noticing it. I don't drive this car normally, my partner does. I asked a mechanic about it and they didn't notice anything. But, then, it may have been warm when they checked it.
Oh, hey, when I took the coil packs out to replace the valve cover gasket, some of the plastic tabs on their connectors broke. 17 year old plastic in the top of a engine can be like that. Are those connector shells a commonly available and easily replaceable item, and can the pins be taken out of them and put into the replacements without having to reterminate them completely? Do I even need to replace them? They haven't fallen off yet, but if they do, the affected cylinder(s) will obviously not be firing, and it'll probably throw a misfire code.
Obviously, I can’t know for sure without putting my own ears on it, but it’s very likely valve lash is exactly what you’re hearing. The newer Toyotas have hydraulic valve lash adjusters that prevent noise as the engine wears. The 3.0 and 3.3 timing belt V6s have metal shims between the cam lobes and the valves. When the cams wear, space is created, and so is noise. As the engine heats up, metal components expand, and that very tiny gap shrinks. The only way of fixing this is to replace the shims with larger ones. A headache of a job, not to mention I am unsure if you can even get those shims anymore. So if it genuinely doesn’t bother you, ignore it. Or maybe try a slightly heavier weight oil.
As for the coil pack connectors, I’m surprised you had clips to begin with! 😂 You can get replacement connectors from the dealer, de-pin the old connectors (can be challenging) and clip the pins into the new connector (in the correct order) OR! You can do as we do, and put a little dab of silicone sealant were the clip used to be. It holds the connector secure, while still allowing them to come off easily in the future. We used Toyota Brand FIPG (form in place gasket) but that stuff’s expensive. Silicone caulk or something similar would work just fine for that.
Lastly, on that motor, if one coil pack fails, (or a connector backs off) you’ll get multiple codes for multiple cylinders even though only one coil pack is at fault.
Thanks again Lou!!
Very great video,
TIP= Grade 8 is great for street vehicles but the off-road guys in Baja stepped back to grade 5, This is because grade 8 and 10 will break in the desert on impact but grade 5 will bend. A bent bolt can continue the race and a broken bolt takes you out. Just something for your audience to think about for the application they are building for,
That’s fascinating! But it makes a lot of sense. Similar to sockets I guess. I was shocked to find out that impact sockets were actually SOFTER than chrome sockets. The softness allows them to flex and avoid cracking. Totally backwards from what I originally thought.
Working on this kinda stuff I always wondered about these questions. Thanks for making a video answering them! Professional help is hard to find on the internet haha
I’m no professional. I do have a RUclips channel though so I must be trustworthy!
It’s my pleasure my friend. Thank you for watching. 🙏
Good Stuff! I watched it twice to make sure I got it. Thanks for sharing your expertise MC! Cheers from Motown.
My pleasure, Robert! Thank you. 🙏
Great information! I'm making lower shock mounts that can twist for an old Dodge truck. Essentially, you just confirmed my design. Thanks!
Twist! That sounds interesting!
Great video. Threads will also wallow out the hole in the tab faster then the bolt shank. thanks!
Agreed! But if that happens I think it’s a sign the bolt wasn’t tight enough.
Excellent description and detail. I’ve never even worked on a cars suspension, and I liked this.
Nice! Thank you for the kind words my friend.
great explanation for a 'simple' yet important component
Thank you my friend. 🙏
yuP^ I would trust this guy with my vehicle he personifies wisdom and intellect and professionalism and good character.
No way! I don’t even trust me!
Thank you my friend. 🙏
After watching the whole video I went back to the first scene of, 'whats wrong with this picture' and got it.....great video!
Nice! Happy to be of service my friend. Thank you!
Great content ! I have always tried to have at least 1 1/2 thread showing through the nut after torquing and I always try to use grade 8 hardware for safety reasons ! Thank You 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
I don’t see why you’d need any more than that. A utility truck manufacturer I worked for required a minimum of a half inch protruding from the back end of the nut.
Thanks for watching, Ferdinand!