Thanks for a grate help on this, I have a Jayco 2004 van it had no shine when I just Brouth it then I was looking at your home work on polishing your van so that's how I started. I got the Meguiars Oxidation Remover Heavy Duty Cleaner it didn't seem to work that good I was not happy with this so I tried a little patch with 600 wet and dry with heaps of soap wash it with clean water then hit it with the foam Buff and wow what a difference a Big shine came up very happy . When I went to But one-step cut-polish can't get this in Australia so I done this with Meguiars Oxidation Remover then the Meguiars Boat Caravan High Gloss Polish with wool pad and it looks like a new van now. ( For Bad Oxidation this idea works and it will make you Happy with your hard work ) So thanks again for your help on this.
Glad you were able to find a combination that worked well for you! Stark products are great too, "Level R" is a heavy cut, but when it's that bad, it usually needs some sand paper. Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
I have a Itasca navion small c rv and my question to you is should I do this process. Because my situation is parts of the front cap are starting to Peel. The paint is till good and don’t think I have to have it clear coated by a RV body shop. Thank you in advance. Great video by the way
Thank you! That's a little tough to answer without seeing the condition & failure, but if you are experiencing delamination, you may need to do some form of resurfacing. While this process works great for swirls, scratches, and light-medium oxidation, it sounds like you may need a bit more. If possible, I'd reach out to a detailer of boats or RV's and get an assessment. An RV dealer may give you some info as well, but I'd recommend having someone experienced in fiberglass restoration look in person. It sounds like your issue is a little more complex & this might not be enough for your situation. Hope I helped at least a little bit & thanks again!
After a couple years of using foam pads & meguiars compounds I changed to 3 M perfect it line & wool pads. The Flagship wax as a finish is good . As are foam pads for a final finish. My results are better now as is my satisfaction in the shine & durability. A good industrial platform ladder is much safer & ergonomic
Hey Jeff, I would agree. A wool pad makes quick work of more severe oxidation if doing a 2 step followed up with a foam pad, then a wax/ sealant/ coating. I do like the Meguiar's AIO for jobs like this where we're trying to meet a budget & it's rather forgiving to use in direct sunlight on a 100+°F day lol. For durability without a cost factor, I'd go with a ceramic coating all the way. Thanks for the comment!
I personally like the DA Fine foam pads from Rupes for nearly everything. The yellow is my goto like 90% of the time & the blue is very aggressive for a foam but still does decent even with an AllInOne style product. I use the white rarely unless it's the last part of doing a full correction. Don't forget to select the size for your equipment! - Rupes DA Fine Polishing pads amzn.to/3MSqyCa - Rinseless Wash diydetail.com/collections/wash/products/rinseless-wash?ref=PREMIER&variant=42193531535518 - Purple wool pad diydetail.com/collections/buffing-paint-correction/products/gold-standard-wool-pad?variant=42375466156190
@Premier_Auto_Detailing definitely! We actually just washed a 29 ft fifth wheel. We tried the compound and pads for a car today to get the shine to come back, and quickly saw that it was not going to do the job. Now we're ready for the job tomorrow. Thanks in part to your video.We really appreciate it!
Awesome! Pads, you'd be OK, but the compound really needs more cut. If you find it's shiny from 1 angle & cloudy looking from the opposite side of the light source, buffing will not fix it. The shiny angle means the surface oxidation was removed & it's polished out. The same spot with the light behind you vs in front of you being cloudy and blotchy means it has deeper level oxidation that would need wet sanding followed up with a 2 step. It sounds odd & is hard to describe but check different angles of light & if it's there, then what I described will make better sense. Good luck & have fun with it!
I have started using McGuires 67 and I'm told to use a sheepskin pad and I've been told to use a foam pad. When I did put it on they said to get it off with a towel immediately. It dries too fast and I get a cloudy effect.
One of the great things about detailing is that you can do things many different ways & still get great results! I have a decent collection of pads & personally don't even have a sheepskin pad. For me, foam for finishing & most light to moderate corrections, purple wool if I really really need to chew into something followed up with foam. I personally keep the pads fairly damp with rinseless wash. It can get a little grabby when coming off but it's not usually too bad. Make sure you aren't overusing the product. If it's too thick it can cause some of the issues you described. You can also do 2 towels for removal. 1 damp with rinseless to use 1st, which will get rid of the majority, then immediately hit it with the 2nd dry towel.
Hey! Good question, obviously shade is ideal but not always possible. Some compounds tend to do better than others at not drying too fast. The compound in the video is one of them. The wax does tend to flash & dry quicker, though. Using a machine to wax helps expedite the process & keeps the "wax off" phase to a minimum. General tips, 1 I keep my polishing pads a little damp. I use either DI water or Rinseless Wash in a spray bottle (mist one spray on the pad & run at max speed for about 10 seconds). 2 Spray some panel prep or distilled/ deionized water from a spray bottle just before you start the section to cool the panel if it's hot to touch. 3. Adjust the size of the work area if needed. It seems counterproductive, but smaller sections will save you time overall vs. fighting dried compound. 4 Start in an area that makes sense for the current time of day & throughout the rest of the job. You don't want to start the sun side & follow it. Hope that helps a little. It's 112°F this weekend here, so it definitely adds challenges!
No problem! I would also suggest Blackfire All In One & DIY Detail Gold standard polish for longer work times on your autos. I use those 2 often for that reason. Blackfire has synthetic sealant that's good for about 6 months and looks great!! DIY works and looks good, but you'll need to use a wax, sealant, or ceramic coating afterward to protect it.
I used these products one one side of my camper and the entire side went white with oxidation. It was blue. The other side I used a different product and it’s fine. Do not use the 2 in one polish and wax.
Hey Cindy! There is almost always 1 side that is worse due to positioning of the rig when it sits. However, compounding absolutely can not create oxidation, regardless of brand. Oxidation is mostly created by exposure, UV, & it's the result of the upper surface of the gelcoat failing to some degree. What I'd assume was the issue is lack of maintenance at some point (left unwaxed for months at a time or more) & the surface now needs to be wet sanded. Overworking compounds trying to achieve wet sanding levels of abrasion will result in softening of the gelcoat with a lot of heat being produced. This leads to pushing the oxidation deeper into the gel and chasing it around so to speak. I'd guess that is what may have happened here & if that's the scenario, any products used on that side in the same way would produce the same issue. If it feels smooth and slick to the touch but looks cloudy afterward, that's deeper oxidation that would need restoration, not just compounding/ polishing.
You're not wrong.. I can open it to a full length, but I do not like to lean anything against the customers unit. The double ring at the top gives decent stability, but yeah, there are WAY better & safer options. Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
On point & thanks for caring! It's so easy sometimes to not follow ladder safely, wear gloves, wear a respirator, etc. We all try to be mindful, but it's definitely easy to develop bad habits. Thanks again!
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Catch Me [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KxwEXXFQMTY/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for a grate help on this, I have a Jayco 2004 van it had no shine when I just Brouth it then I was looking at your home work on polishing your van so that's how I started. I got the Meguiars Oxidation Remover Heavy Duty Cleaner it didn't seem to work that good I was not happy with this so I tried a little patch with 600 wet and dry with heaps of soap wash it with clean water then hit it with the foam Buff and wow what a difference a Big shine came up very happy . When I went to But one-step cut-polish can't get this in Australia so I done this with Meguiars Oxidation Remover then the Meguiars Boat Caravan High Gloss Polish with wool pad and it looks like a new van now. ( For Bad Oxidation this idea works and it will make you Happy with your hard work ) So thanks again for your help on this.
Glad you were able to find a combination that worked well for you! Stark products are great too, "Level R" is a heavy cut, but when it's that bad, it usually needs some sand paper. Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
I have a Itasca navion small c rv and my question to you is should I do this process. Because my situation is parts of the front cap are starting to Peel. The paint is till good and don’t think I have to have it clear coated by a RV body shop. Thank you in advance. Great video by the way
Thank you! That's a little tough to answer without seeing the condition & failure, but if you are experiencing delamination, you may need to do some form of resurfacing.
While this process works great for swirls, scratches, and light-medium oxidation, it sounds like you may need a bit more.
If possible, I'd reach out to a detailer of boats or RV's and get an assessment. An RV dealer may give you some info as well, but I'd recommend having someone experienced in fiberglass restoration look in person.
It sounds like your issue is a little more complex & this might not be enough for your situation.
Hope I helped at least a little bit & thanks again!
Thank you for the great advice…..l will consult a RV detailer in my area. I really appreciate your time.
After a couple years of using foam pads & meguiars compounds I changed to 3 M perfect it line & wool pads. The Flagship wax as a finish is good . As are foam pads for a final finish. My results are better now as is my satisfaction in the shine & durability. A good industrial platform ladder is much safer & ergonomic
Hey Jeff, I would agree. A wool pad makes quick work of more severe oxidation if doing a 2 step followed up with a foam pad, then a wax/ sealant/ coating. I do like the Meguiar's AIO for jobs like this where we're trying to meet a budget & it's rather forgiving to use in direct sunlight on a 100+°F day lol. For durability without a cost factor, I'd go with a ceramic coating all the way.
Thanks for the comment!
Could you also tell me what type of pads to buy ?
I personally like the DA Fine foam pads from Rupes for nearly everything. The yellow is my goto like 90% of the time & the blue is very aggressive for a foam but still does decent even with an AllInOne style product. I use the white rarely unless it's the last part of doing a full correction.
Don't forget to select the size for your equipment!
- Rupes DA Fine Polishing pads amzn.to/3MSqyCa
- Rinseless Wash diydetail.com/collections/wash/products/rinseless-wash?ref=PREMIER&variant=42193531535518
- Purple wool pad diydetail.com/collections/buffing-paint-correction/products/gold-standard-wool-pad?variant=42375466156190
Loved it! Thank you!
Awesome! Thanks for watching & for commenting!
Very informative. Thank you for this!!
Thank you! I hope you found something that'll help you out!
@Premier_Auto_Detailing definitely! We actually just washed a 29 ft fifth wheel. We tried the compound and pads for a car today to get the shine to come back, and quickly saw that it was not going to do the job.
Now we're ready for the job tomorrow. Thanks in part to your video.We really appreciate it!
Awesome! Pads, you'd be OK, but the compound really needs more cut. If you find it's shiny from 1 angle & cloudy looking from the opposite side of the light source, buffing will not fix it. The shiny angle means the surface oxidation was removed & it's polished out. The same spot with the light behind you vs in front of you being cloudy and blotchy means it has deeper level oxidation that would need wet sanding followed up with a 2 step. It sounds odd & is hard to describe but check different angles of light & if it's there, then what I described will make better sense. Good luck & have fun with it!
I have started using McGuires 67 and I'm told to use a sheepskin pad and I've been told to use a foam pad. When I did put it on they said to get it off with a towel immediately. It dries too fast and I get a cloudy effect.
One of the great things about detailing is that you can do things many different ways & still get great results! I have a decent collection of pads & personally don't even have a sheepskin pad. For me, foam for finishing & most light to moderate corrections, purple wool if I really really need to chew into something followed up with foam. I personally keep the pads fairly damp with rinseless wash. It can get a little grabby when coming off but it's not usually too bad. Make sure you aren't overusing the product. If it's too thick it can cause some of the issues you described. You can also do 2 towels for removal. 1 damp with rinseless to use 1st, which will get rid of the majority, then immediately hit it with the 2nd dry towel.
I noticed you are doing the polishing in full sun, any tips or tricks?
Hey! Good question, obviously shade is ideal but not always possible. Some compounds tend to do better than others at not drying too fast. The compound in the video is one of them. The wax does tend to flash & dry quicker, though. Using a machine to wax helps expedite the process & keeps the "wax off" phase to a minimum.
General tips, 1 I keep my polishing pads a little damp. I use either DI water or Rinseless Wash in a spray bottle (mist one spray on the pad & run at max speed for about 10 seconds). 2 Spray some panel prep or distilled/ deionized water from a spray bottle just before you start the section to cool the panel if it's hot to touch. 3. Adjust the size of the work area if needed. It seems counterproductive, but smaller sections will save you time overall vs. fighting dried compound. 4 Start in an area that makes sense for the current time of day & throughout the rest of the job. You don't want to start the sun side & follow it.
Hope that helps a little. It's 112°F this weekend here, so it definitely adds challenges!
@@Premier_Auto_Detailing Thank You Sir!!
No problem! I would also suggest Blackfire All In One & DIY Detail Gold standard polish for longer work times on your autos. I use those 2 often for that reason. Blackfire has synthetic sealant that's good for about 6 months and looks great!! DIY works and looks good, but you'll need to use a wax, sealant, or ceramic coating afterward to protect it.
If you ever need to demo products, I have an RV for you to test on ;)
I may hit you up. I was thinking about it a couple of weeks ago. I just don't get down your way too often
I used these products one one side of my camper and the entire side went white with oxidation. It was blue. The other side I used a different product and it’s fine. Do not use the 2 in one polish and wax.
Hey Cindy! There is almost always 1 side that is worse due to positioning of the rig when it sits. However, compounding absolutely can not create oxidation, regardless of brand. Oxidation is mostly created by exposure, UV, & it's the result of the upper surface of the gelcoat failing to some degree.
What I'd assume was the issue is lack of maintenance at some point (left unwaxed for months at a time or more) & the surface now needs to be wet sanded.
Overworking compounds trying to achieve wet sanding levels of abrasion will result in softening of the gelcoat with a lot of heat being produced. This leads to pushing the oxidation deeper into the gel and chasing it around so to speak. I'd guess that is what may have happened here & if that's the scenario, any products used on that side in the same way would produce the same issue.
If it feels smooth and slick to the touch but looks cloudy afterward, that's deeper oxidation that would need restoration, not just compounding/ polishing.
👍👍
You need a bigger ladder bro. Your gona break your neck standing on top rung like that.
You're not wrong.. I can open it to a full length, but I do not like to lean anything against the customers unit. The double ring at the top gives decent stability, but yeah, there are WAY better & safer options. Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
@Premier_Auto_Detailing I hear you bro. Just saying your safety comes first. Great job by the way
On point & thanks for caring!
It's so easy sometimes to not follow ladder safely, wear gloves, wear a respirator, etc. We all try to be mindful, but it's definitely easy to develop bad habits. Thanks again!