Been a detailer for 25 years and this is my 2 cents.With such an oxidized gelcoat I would have wet sanded first with 1000 grit then 2000, compound to remove any fine scratches and then finish with a fine polish.If you only compound you will never remove enough if the oxidation to have the finish stay glossy.After all that use a prep spray (IPA) to remove any oils from the surface otherwise any product you apply over the surface will not last.
Thanks for your comment and suggestions! … I actually did a bit of wet sanding on some deep scratches , but other than that the job I did in this video has held up really well for a long time (if you look at the date of when this video was published and this comment.) It’s still shining beautifully… I like what you said about the IPA though ….
@@yachtworks370 Nice, yes wet sanding really evens out the surface so it gets rid of any orange peeling and can really make the surface glass like if finished correctly.It does take a lot of time but can bring back old boats and really surprise customers.
I bought everything you recommended and “Oh my Gosh” my boat has NEVER shined like it does, NEVER! My gel coat stripes were terrible oxidized and now they look like a mirror, thank you so much you definitely know what your doing your the MAN!!👍👍👍😊😊
Just got through Polishing a highly oxidated Boat with the method and materials that you used in this video. The boat came great- customer was very very happy. Finding out that material makes all the difference in the world. I used to use car material on boats. Just wanted to thank you for this video. It helped me out a lot. Now I can do boats with confidence now. Thank you so much!!!!!!
I'm a HUGE fan of Star Brite Marine Polish , works better than anything I've tried. It was recommended by a fellow boater. Also the Star Bright vinyl cleaner and magic erasers do miracles to the interior .
I did this process and it turned out beautiful ! Also if you look at his other video where he’s painting the bottom you can see how gorgeous his gel coat looks after he did it all.
Standing on a short step ladder makes your work so much easier. And a much lighter tool will preform the same work. Painter retired after 35 miserable years knows these things. But very nice video thank you so much.
Hey thanks Rick ... I learned from a man that worked. these jobs for 50 years ... experience goes a long ways and bless you for doing all the work you have done. You made a lot of boat owners happy ! ... Have a blessed year Rick !
Thanks for the tip question I have. I’ve got a Hydro bass boat with a lot of metal flake in there with this technique and products, you used work on that as well and by the way,dawn dish soap and hot water works wonders. Cover it with a good amount of it. The whole Pad scrub it in make a lot of foam and you’ll see it working.
Just ordered everything on your list. Looking forward to trying this process on my Contender when I pull it in a couple of weeks. Thank you for putting out this video, and for the product links!
Rumor has it, that till this day, a blue boat is still roaming around the ocean, with one beautiful square in the hull but the rest is completely oxidized and looking kinda shoddy.
Use a buffer arbor extender so your pad doesn’t rub on your buffer.I use presta compound.That stuff doesn’t play.Its water based as well for easy cleanup
Thanks ! Ya , I did put a spacer in just not on the video … it comes with the buffer. Presta I have found to be a bit too wet sometimes and not enough grit. I think it’s better for mild oxidation and very large projects as it doesn’t gunk up as much. However if I want a job done quicker I like the meguiars and I just get another pad when necessary or clean it out. Presta is also twice the price or so. Anyways… Thanks for your comment !
Do you apply baby oil to the wax too ? Because you mentioned you do the same process as the polish . Also do you use the same pad for polish and waxing ? or should I use a different polish pad for the wax ? Also how much pressure are you using? Thanks I’m advance
Hey…. No you don’t add oil to the wax … it’s better to have two pads or just use microfiber towels for the waxing. Make sure you wipe off the polish really good before waxing. The polishing is getting polish/oil into the pours and the wax is basically sealing off the job and protecting. You don’t need much pressure. The buffer does the work. I recommend buffing everything first. Then polishing larger sections than the square in this video before waxing. That was just for demonstration. Best of luck!
Great ! You just want to apply light pressure working it in evenly over each section for a little while and then wipe the polish off really good with a clean microfiber towel so the wax can seal the deal in the next step. Don’t let the polish dry. You got this !
Dude, I stopped using M105 due to the dusting and how finicky it is. M105 was great until about 5 plus years ago. Nowadays there are tons of compounds that are lightyears beyond M105. M205 is still a great polish though.
Ive been detailing for 30years. I did cars for 20yrs and this is my 10th season in boats. I started with a company that used Mequires products but foam pad everything. It works but the depth of the shine it was lacking and the durability. I mean i get it. But i found a compound called gel coat compound made by "Presta" you dont have to be in the shade. I wheel most of my boats in the sun. My process has a 16month durability. I live in Michigan and the spring is almost here. Anyways im detailing boats before they get shrink wrapped because its holds thru our harsh winters. I Have Never Sanded any Gel coat EVER! The restores i do(some as old as 15yrs since last detail)come back looking like they were fresh out of the mold. Brand new! Also do you know why your baby oil worked? Gel coat is porous...its not like clear coat. That you need the shade. Gel coat is a different animal. I use olive oil with colinite 845 mixed in with Mequires 67. Thats my "polish" then i hand wax with colinite double coat auto wax. Those 3 steps work great together in the hottest of summer days
Thanks for your input … ya I have explained that gel coat is porous in other comments. I do like Presta for some projects as it stays wetter but for heavier oxidation I prefer the meguiars because it’s a bit grittier and gets the oxidation off faster in my experience, even if I have to add a bit more I don’t have to buff as long. Thanks for the working in sun tips. Might try it out sometime. Keep up the good work!
Good video. Thanks I've just ordered all the stuff I need. I have a 7" polisher, but it's 2000/3800 RPM. It's very old. It's too fast. So I ordered a variable speed.
Great video man! My father recently passed and we inherited his 28’ down east boat. It’s going on its 24 season and we have the same oxidation issue. I would love to try and restore the hull like this. Being a 28’ boat would you suggest a gallon of each bottle? Or do you use more of on than the other?
Thanks man! So sorry to hear of your fathers passing, I hope you got to spend time with him. Glad to hear he was a boater and you’re continuing on. I’d recommend having a gallon of the oxidation remover 49 but maybe not necessary to have as much polish. Make sure you wipe off all the polish with clean microfiber towels and then apply the wax and let it sit for 10 mins or so before wiping that off. Best of luck to you !
@@yachtworks370 thanks man! I really appreciate it! One last question ha. Do you think a cloudy over cast day with no rain in the future is good to do the buffing ? I have one side of the boat that is always in direct sun light so im hoping the cloud coverage will be enough to allow me to do the buffing. What do you think?
Hey Guys, Make sure you clean the surface first with a neutral ph Soap. I just use seventh generation dish soap. I've listed that in the description along with the other products used. Also, I'm getting a few questions about the BABY OIL... heres the thing guys, believe it or not, gel coat is actually a little bit pourous, and that's why it oxidizes... so when you buff out the oxidation you can then fill the tiny pourous holes with polish which has nutritous oils for the gel coat in itself and baby oil is just another oil that allows it to shine a bit more... make sure you give a good wipe down after polishing with a good microfiber cloth (link in the description) so all of the oil is absorbed into the tiny holes of the gel coat and there is no extra polish/oil on top.... because when you put the wax on after it has to settle on top and seal the deal. If you're on the fence about the baby oil, don't use it. Best of luck guys. #Boatlife
Im about to do this to a 2007 Malibu, but i do not want to remove the Gelcoat in the slightest, does using this remove the gelcoat? and i guess if i needed a paint correction, could i do this with out removing the gelcoat
It’s normal that Buffing will always remove a little gel coat….you don’t need a lot of pressure… just let the pad and product work… depending how much the boat is out in the elements, I recommend you or the owner every once and a while keep up on the polish and wax or just wax more often so you buff it less than you need to. Make sure the wax is applied for about 10 mins (not in sun) before wiping off with good clean microfiber towel. Best of luck with the Malibu!
How do you deal with name / hailing port decals, pin stripe tape, etc.? I haven't seen anyone address this and it definitely seems like it's easy to burn / buff them off with a rotary tool.
Hey trimarans are cool! …It took maybe about 15 mins of actual work…. But all the in between parts adds time. Changing pads adding the product getting your buffing towels ready , moving the scaffolds or whatever you’re standing on, waiting between applying the wax and wiping it off, etc …. To make things go faster, buff the whole thing first and then do the polishing and waxing after. Get that baby shining! Best of luck !
Thanks for the reply. I'm gonna wait till October or November. Just too hot in Houston. That buffer looks like it could put a good shine on my 18 year old tundra too.
We’re moving into Winter here in the Puget Sound….talk to us about weather/temperature needs for this process. Obviously not rain…but is there a moisture factor or temperature factor that will impact the detailing? I’m following all your recommendations with products and so on.
Hi Kathy, there really shouldn’t be much problems in colder weather … the compound will heat up as you use it as well .. wax might be a little harder but not much. Cold is better than a really hot surface for the products. I’d just keep the products inside until you are ready to use them. Biggest problem might just be staying comfortable yourself 😬… best of luck on your boat
Great video, Thank you! Two quick questions.. Did you use the baby oil just with the polish or with the wax too? Secondly, did you switch pads after the polish to a fresh one with the waxing or can you use same pad?
Baby oil just with polish, … you can use same pad but I would polish everything first then wax after. A different pad would be preferred though. Good luck !
My boat looks amazing now! I purchased all materials listed except the buffer. I tried buffer pad with the orbital polisher, but the adhesive on the Velcro doesn’t last very long, so I used the foam pads instead… I did follow all of your steps otherwise and she now shines. I wish I could submit a pic. Thanks for the video!
Looks good, but I can tell you from 15 years experience, if you only ever compound up and down like that and you don’t evenly cross hatch, you will unevenly remove the gelcoat. I’ve never seen the baby oil, I’m not really sold but I’ll have to try it. I don’t think using baby oil is good idea when applying wax as the paraffin and the oils in the compounds and polishes are supposed to be removed via an isopropyl alcohol wash prior to applying the wax. I’ll definitely try it next time I polish though. Also, don’t fall for the 3M bs of using their wax, it’s all carnuba based, and lasts a month tops. Use a polymer sealant like Jescar Power Lock Plus or a similar SiO2 polymer. That oxidation came off great. Also, huge fan of the Chem guys pad cleaner, just wish I could buy it in gallons. It’s so expensive for how little you get and they don’t sell that product in bulk for some reason. I’ve since moved to a different pad washing chemical and a grit guard bucket inserted pad washer that my employees love. Good video man.
Thanks for your input and info to the community here. You are right about going up. and down and side to side.., I didn't show everything as I cut out some shots and sped up in this video and went side to side more as I went along. I don't believe the flagship uses carnauba. 3M bought out Meguiars back in 2008, but I don't think they changed the ingredients. This was done back in August or so and the wax is still holding good. Thanks for the tip on polymer. I'll try that next time. I like the chem guys too.... Its powerful stuff... so much that I got sick first time using it. I don't recommend breathing it in. I'd like to see your grit guard bucket washer system. Thanks again for watching the video and for your great comments. Take care.
I've always washed my pads using woolite in the washing machine, or on-site using lots of water and just a touch of Dawn... Also important is spurring the pads to remove the buildup of excess compound and abraded gelcoat
Great video. Like the way you layout everything that we need. I'm doing inside the cabin, still very shiny in there, should I go straight to wax? Or polish first? Thanks.
Hey, in this video I put it on the polishing pad, but you can just put it on a microfiber cloth... cover the area really well that youre working on and leave it for 5-10 minutes (depending on the temperature) before wiping off. Gluck luck !
Anytime you run a rotary your going to have holograms. That's why you should finish down with a polisher. If not your just covering the holograms with wax usually. Will be revealed after wax is removed
Yeah should be good… I’d just do all the buffing first , cleaning out the pads as you go when they get gunked up, and then when done with all the buffing move onto polishing and then waxing … use a tool like this to clean pad when it gets gunked up : amzn.to/3Hg6t5N
A tip and a few questions. Soak the pads overnight in soap & water and put in a washing machine (extended clean). They will look like new. My gelcoat is heavily (heavily) oxidized, more than the video. Should I go with a heavier compound, like Supercut compound? (it feels gritty/sandy to the touch). 2) your thoughts on 3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material 3) when and for what do you suggest using a foam (sponge type) applicator, which you did not use on your machine in the video. Thanks and greetings from New York City!
Start with 500 abralon then 1000 abralon, follow with heavy cut pad + compound, then medium cut pad + compound, then orange foam with medium cut = mirror finish
Why the baby oil? I thought before protection you would need ipa whipe down to remove oils to prep surface before applying protection. Of course I say do to cars but this is a boat so I’m curious to know. Thanks
I pinned a comment to the top of the comments about the baby oil etc. Before doing anything, I actually cleaned the area with a neutral ph dish soap (7th generation) .FYI... also if you want to go green more, you can go with apple cider vinegar and baking soda
It’s actually been longer than that as this video was not put out right away… some mild oxidation coming back…. About to hit it again, but won’t take near as much effort as in this video as it’s still shining pretty good. Might just polish and wax it. Boats been up the Gulf Stream and seen some crazy seas.
Great video - thanks. Two quick questions. how much coverage should I expect from each bottle you've used. I'm about to renovate a 40ft boat, and will use your recommendations. Second question - the cloth you used to take off the wax - can that be any cloth, or something specific?
There’s no silly questions… polish has oils that feed into the porous gel coat and give it a nice glossy shine … wax then seals the deal by literally sealing everything in and providing protection from the elements.. best of luck
I am a little confused between the 7" and 9" pads. How does that work with a velcro base that is 7"? Need immediate responses as I need to order TODAY. TY!
I’m partial to Meguiars but both will get the job done just fine. By the way, if you didn’t know, 3M acquired Meguiars back in 2008. Best of luck ! Get ‘er done!
Wet sanding with a fine grit works yes … depends on your particular coat if you want to or not … if you’re here I’m sure you will figure it out … best of luck
Just leaving this comment for any fiberglass workers or boat detailers to discuss and share ideas and processes ive been working on boats, rvs, and jetskis for 2 years plus off and on for 6 im more than happy to share information
I'm new to detailing and was worried that using a rotary VS an orbital buffer will increase my level of screw up. Can I get 90% of what this guy did with an orbital sander? I am scared of ruining the boats surface and creating the dreaded swirls that will never come out
No it doesn’t destroy it… eventually after many many times of doing it, the gel coat will run thin. Just do it and then occasionally throw more wax on it and you won’t have to do it often.
I would like to see what it looks like after an alcohol wipe down before you apply wax. Wouldn't the baby oil cause the wax not to adhere to the gel coat? My guess is after about 3 to 4 washes the oxidation will bleed back through. Most people think it's just fading again. But it's because the oxidation was just hidden by the chemicals and oils . always do a alcohol wipe down after each step to see what's really going on with the gel coat. But this video is great if you are not looking for longevity and just want it to shine. Like what you said at the end of the video about having glass work and getting it redone. I understand why you did it this way. But for people who dont want to detail their boats 2 to 4 times a year I recommend a professional that uses a an alcohol wipe down after each step and inspects the gel coat for hidden oxidation and cleans the surface before applying wax.
Thanks for chiming in... these are great things to raise questions about so people can do further research. However, I will say that I worked alongside a guy that has done this for 50 plus years and the boat that I performed the job on in this video is STILL looking great. No oxidation whatsoever and this job was done in July of 2020. The only thing thats been done is a little more of the flagship wax was applied one time. Shes still looking great and been in all the elements for sometime now. .. thanks again for your comments.... I find it interesting that the designer of the boat in the video is Bob Perry... and your name is Bobby Perry. ; ) Take care!
Buffing pad … if you look in the description below the video, everything is listed to get on Amazon. You have to open the description box for the links. Thanks for stopping by the vid and good luck with your projects.
Hey Jeremy thanks. Yeah... it's doing great so far. Just make sure you wait about 10 minutes (not in the sun) before wiping it off. Water just beads off the gelcoat now.
@@jeremys8360 marine waxes are specifically for marine surfaces and car products are the same. If you're an amazing detailing guru, use anything but there's a reason we don't mix the two products up.
I can see that oxidation remover as the abrasiveness needed to remove the oxidation but nothing works like 2000-3000 grit wet sand and then a chemguys ceramic wax 🤷🏽♂️
Wet sanding works but more and more detailers are getting away from wet sanding … makes such a mess and takes a lot longer. I usually only do it on deep scratches. But to each their own… thanks for watching and for your comment ! Best of luck !
Yeah it is pretty messy.I’m not by any means trying to knock your method or anything like that. I was just commenting on the texture of the product. I ve tried several products and methods for restoring clear coats and I can see the abrasiveness acting as fine 2000-3000 grit. I looks promising and I think I may try it out in the future. I’m not one of them people who is just on platforms insulting or leaving negative comments,that’s not me at all.I’m supportive of your hustle and best of luck to you as well.👊🏽
Yes of course they do, but after you do it for a while you build up those muscles and it gets easier.... the next time it will be a little easier and so on .... stay hydrated... it helps : )
Yellow polishing pad is 9 inch did it fit ok consIdering the white wool pads were 7 INCH. Going to be my first time doing it so what to make sure i order properly . Thanks
Hi, how long does the gloss hold in your case ? I had several times the oxidation came back in a couple of weeks when the boat was back on the water. Any tips ? Thanks.
Hey Martijn, I've had my boat on the water for a couple months now and it is still shining... What does happen though is salt from the salt water will stick to the Wax a bit when it splashes up. This can be confused for oxidation sometimes. What I'm going to do soon though is get in my dinghy / tinder and go along side the boat wiping it down and adding a fresh coat of wax. This can be done at a dock as well if youre in a place where the water isn't calm enough. Best of luck!
I have a black hulled boat. I compound, Polish, and wax for the past few years before putting it in the water. It looks great when I’m done. But the oxidation returns very fast now. It doesn’t matter what product I use. I’ve used them all. 3M, Meguiars. Most recently Smoove Pro Cut 1000, which I find is the best. I keep my boat in the water from May 1 to December 1 usually and by December it’s really bad again. Chalky and faded. It sucks.
Good question ... It depends on the size of your boat and size of area you are buffing, and if you want to clean out your pad daily or not. You will most likely need more than one pad. On the boat in this video (40 ft sailboat with large buffing area) I used about 4 or 5 pads. Try to do as much buffing before polishing and waxing.... that way your compounding pad wont dry up and be difficult to work with as fast. It will gunk up if you use the same pad a lot and there are tools you can use to get the gunk out. Like this one : amzn.to/3vmH97c
Also the chemical guys cleaner which I linked in the description works for at the end of the day to clean out your pads... just don't breathe it in too much... thats why it works.
Just wipe it off really good with fresh, clean microfiber towels … can’t get enough of those. This was obviously just a quick video… I wasn’t finished …. Check out my bottom paint video where I had more of it done. Thanks for stopping by !
@@yachtworks370 so you're telling me holograms are prevented by wiping with fresh towels? Who do you think you're lying to? Towles have nothing to do with holograms. You're dodging my question.......
Awesome info ! Will this process work with the vinyl lettering and stripes on an older Mastercraft Stars and Stripes ! Or does the process wear into the vinyl material ? Thanks again for this great info !
I'm worried that a rotary buffer will be too strong for my amateur self, can I get similar results using an orbital buffer, 80/90%? I'm afraid to ruin the boat lol
It won’t ruin the boat… just don’t push really hard into the paint / gel coat. You can try an orbital but it would take so much longer and be a lot more tedious.
Where was your spacer nut on the spindle? #45 uses caranuba (breaks down fast) Adding baby oil would be appropriate if you just want to add oil to your gelcoat. Covering all that with flagship is 3 steps too far and doesn't help you. Just use the flagship and your compound. A foundation of caranuba and oil can't support a polymer for long. Just an opinion from a guy who did over 100 boats a year for 14 years.
Thanks for your input and tips. I get all my info usually from researching cruiserforums. I'll remember what you said for next time and give it a shot.... sounds like less work : )
So, I'm not seeing the carnauba listed in the #45 , however I do see it in #56 Wax , which I did not use in this video. After further research, I believe the #45 should be used ... "This polish is designed to penetrate the pores and remove contamination while depositing nourishing oils."
Local boydidgood --- Yes, this is absolutely the Truth.. No foundation of any wax or oil is going to be on the gelcoat long, and then it will fall off, taking whatever you applied on top of it with it.. This is why you really wash down the gelcoat and then apply your Polymer, etc., product on top of the clean gelcoat.. Putting anything on top of a wax, the same thing... The wax is the weakest link because - its just a wax... It will last a very short time, and its going to be gone along with everything else you put on top of the wax..
Hey Lee, anywhere from 1500-2000 will be fine for polishing, whatever you’re comfortable with…. waxing doesn’t have to be that fast and can even be done by hand , just let the wax sit for a 5-10 mins before wiping off (not in the sun , don’t let wax dry) Best of luck to you !
Depends on the elements … if your at sea full time the wax should last anywhere from 3-6 months , but because you’ve buffed it , you could simply clean it and reapply wax at a dock. If you are pulling the boat in and out of the water it should last longer, but try to avoid dusty roads and dirty environments as the dirt can cling to the wax a bit. If so, clean and rewax. You just don’t want it to oxidize again. Best of luck !
thanks JMorgan, I disagree with the wax not sticking as it has stayed on for a year and a half now , and just as shiny as it used to be except for the salt water laying on top a bit..... however, YES, you should go side to side, as well, when buffing! Not seen in the video but it was done over the whole boat. Thanks for your comment and helping the community ! Take care.
How many buffer pads would you use for a 20 foot center console - in particular the stripping portion? Since all that gel coat came off do you need multiple pads?
Maybe a couple ... if you clean them with a hard brush and pad cleaner after, you can reuse them another day. You can use them again the same day as long as you keep them fresh... like don’t sit them in the sun or dry out and let them get all crusty. But if it’s really a particular job fresher pads are always better.
Looks great. Question! You mention not polishing in the sun. Is that because it's hot, hard work, or the sun does something bad to the actual surface/polish? Is that a problem only with Step 2 (polishing), or also with Oxidation removal and waxing? Thanks!
I’m guessing you might want to paint it … here is a great video on topside paint for you to decide what topside paint to choose. : ruclips.net/video/BTPuaTFEGFo/видео.htmlsi=nfPkd84o1d92Z8S8
I've done air planes and bass boats but I'm in TN.. No big boats here lol.. That's some good money there.. I'd say in the range of 7k if I had to guess
Hey Thanks for your comment Bill. You are correct, I actually made a couple videos and this upload didn't have the cleaning unfortunately. However, I did pin a comment at the top mentioning this and in the description below the video I link soap to use for cleaning first. Glad you made this comment to help others. Take care.
Looking to do this on my wakeboard boat. I have one blue stripe around the boat that I want to fix. How can you confirm its just Gelcoat Oxidation? When the blue stripe gets wet it looks good, only when its dry does it look oxidized.
it could just be a sticker stripe (depending on how big this stripe is) ...if you can feel it really layered on top then it's probably that, but if it's more flush with the rest it's probably gel coat. Sounds to me like it is gelcoat oxidation though since it's chalky out of the water. I can't be for sure without seeing it.
Hey Greg, It's possible, but you will most likely need to wet sand those cracks first. I might make a video on this in the future, but you can probably find other videos on it. Good Luck
Been a detailer for 25 years and this is my 2 cents.With such an oxidized gelcoat I would have wet sanded first with 1000 grit then 2000, compound to remove any fine scratches and then finish with a fine polish.If you only compound you will never remove enough if the oxidation to have the finish stay glossy.After all that use a prep spray (IPA) to remove any oils from the surface otherwise any product you apply over the surface will not last.
Thanks for your comment and suggestions! … I actually did a bit of wet sanding on some deep scratches , but other than that the job I did in this video has held up really well for a long time (if you look at the date of when this video was published and this comment.) It’s still shining beautifully… I like what you said about the IPA though ….
Where do you detail boats?
@@yachtworks370 Nice, yes wet sanding really evens out the surface so it gets rid of any orange peeling and can really make the surface glass like if finished correctly.It does take a lot of time but can bring back old boats and really surprise customers.
Up and down east coast but mostly Florida
what is "Wet sand"?
I bought everything you recommended and “Oh my Gosh” my boat has NEVER shined like it does, NEVER! My gel coat stripes were terrible oxidized and now they look like a mirror, thank you so much you definitely know what your doing your the MAN!!👍👍👍😊😊
Awesome Jeff... Love to hear that !
Repost here when it wears off. I want to know if it lasts longer than a few days, like other polishing appkications.
It’s been 3 weeks since I did the boat and still looks awesome!!
@@offset24 did it hold up good? Did my jetski wondering how long will last
@@asaelramirez24 how long did it last?
Just got through Polishing a highly oxidated Boat with the method and materials that you used in this video.
The boat came great- customer was very very happy. Finding out that material makes all the difference in the world. I used to use car material on boats. Just wanted to thank you for this video. It helped me out a lot. Now I can do boats with confidence now. Thank you so much!!!!!!
Pittman and Sons Mobile Auto Detailing. San Diego
Great to hear! Nice Work.
How long did it take and how many pads did you go through? Im about to do my First boat and it looks like the one in the video, its a 20ft.
I'm a HUGE fan of Star Brite Marine Polish , works better than anything I've tried. It was recommended by a fellow boater. Also the Star Bright vinyl cleaner and magic erasers do miracles to the interior .
I did this process and it turned out beautiful ! Also if you look at his other video where he’s painting the bottom you can see how gorgeous his gel coat looks after he did it all.
Awesome ! Glad it turned out great for you as well !
I'm giving ya a thumbs up and a sub just for the baby oil trick alone! Dude that's genius.
My gelcoat has similar oxidation - just wanna say thank you for taking the time and posting the vid. I'm gonna give this a go on my Regal!
Hey that’s awesome I’m sure you’ll do great !
Standing on a short step ladder makes your work so much easier. And a much lighter tool will preform the same work. Painter retired after 35 miserable years knows these things.
But very nice video thank you so much.
Hey thanks Rick ... I learned from a man that worked. these jobs for 50 years ... experience goes a long ways and bless you for doing all the work you have done. You made a lot of boat owners happy ! ... Have a blessed year Rick !
The key is a good variable speed buffer and a good cutting compound and imo Maguires products are my favorite including their wet sanding paper.
Thanks for the tip question I have. I’ve got a Hydro bass boat with a lot of metal flake in there with this technique and products, you used work on that as well and by the way,dawn dish soap and hot water works wonders. Cover it with a good amount of it. The whole Pad scrub it in make a lot of foam and you’ll see it working.
Just ordered everything on your list. Looking forward to trying this process on my Contender when I pull it in a couple of weeks. Thank you for putting out this video, and for the product links!
Hey that’s great… I love Contenders.. you’ll have her shining soon I’m sure! Best of luck.
Any luck?
Rumor has it, that till this day, a blue boat is still roaming around the ocean, with one beautiful square in the hull but the rest is completely oxidized and looking kinda shoddy.
haha ... look out people, we've got a comedian on our hands. ; ).
funny
@@yachtworks370 40,000 comedians out of work and he's trying to be funny?
Made me laugh
@@yachtworks370
Well, show us the finished product. If you finished it.
Looks Great ! Can't wait to do this on my boat. Thanks for the links below the video. So helpful.
Have fun!
Love the video, thank you! Question for you, would this buffing method work on the boat's top deck as well? (Excluding the non-skid parts of course)
Use a buffer arbor extender so your pad doesn’t rub on your buffer.I use presta compound.That stuff doesn’t play.Its water based as well for easy cleanup
Thanks ! Ya , I did put a spacer in just not on the video … it comes with the buffer. Presta I have found to be a bit too wet sometimes and not enough grit. I think it’s better for mild oxidation and very large projects as it doesn’t gunk up as much. However if I want a job done quicker I like the meguiars and I just get another pad when necessary or clean it out. Presta is also twice the price or so. Anyways… Thanks for your comment !
Very helpful video. Thanks for posting the products and links in the comments.
Good job my man. Looks good
Perfect vid and description. Really appreciate all the info, thank you!
That’s looks a ton better. What method for for a polish job on a boat without a highly oxidized finish?
Hello, Same method … buff a little If needed and if not just polish and wax it after cleaning the hull good with some neutral dish soap and water.
Do you apply baby oil to the wax too ? Because you mentioned you do the same process as the polish . Also do you use the same pad for polish and waxing ? or should I use a different polish pad for the wax ? Also how much pressure are you using? Thanks I’m advance
Hey…. No you don’t add oil to the wax … it’s better to have two pads or just use microfiber towels for the waxing. Make sure you wipe off the polish really good before waxing. The polishing is getting polish/oil into the pours and the wax is basically sealing off the job and protecting. You don’t need much pressure. The buffer does the work. I recommend buffing everything first. Then polishing larger sections than the square in this video before waxing. That was just for demonstration. Best of luck!
Got all my stuff. Going to give it a shot this weekend. So when you apply the Polish you keep going with the machine till all the material is gone?
Great ! You just want to apply light pressure working it in evenly over each section for a little while and then wipe the polish off really good with a clean microfiber towel so the wax can seal the deal in the next step. Don’t let the polish dry. You got this !
Try M105 and M205, ive found the M105 cuts gel really well and following up with the M205 does a better job than most gel coat specific products
I've only seen that used on cars. Did you use it on a saltwater boat ? Thanks for your comment Ben.
Dude, I stopped using M105 due to the dusting and how finicky it is. M105 was great until about 5 plus years ago. Nowadays there are tons of compounds that are lightyears beyond M105. M205 is still a great polish though.
Regarding the baby oil, doesn’t that affect how the wax bonds to the boat?
A lot of people have been saying that but the boat is still shining after 2 years... if you don't want to use the baby oil, then don't.
Ive been detailing for 30years. I did cars for 20yrs and this is my 10th season in boats. I started with a company that used Mequires products but foam pad everything. It works but the depth of the shine it was lacking and the durability. I mean i get it. But i found a compound called gel coat compound made by "Presta" you dont have to be in the shade. I wheel most of my boats in the sun. My process has a 16month durability. I live in Michigan and the spring is almost here. Anyways im detailing boats before they get shrink wrapped because its holds thru our harsh winters. I Have Never Sanded any Gel coat EVER! The restores i do(some as old as 15yrs since last detail)come back looking like they were fresh out of the mold. Brand new!
Also do you know why your baby oil worked? Gel coat is porous...its not like clear coat. That you need the shade. Gel coat is a different animal. I use olive oil with colinite 845 mixed in with Mequires 67. Thats my "polish" then i hand wax with colinite double coat auto wax. Those 3 steps work great together in the hottest of summer days
Thanks for your input … ya I have explained that gel coat is porous in other comments. I do like Presta for some projects as it stays wetter but for heavier oxidation I prefer the meguiars because it’s a bit grittier and gets the oxidation off faster in my experience, even if I have to add a bit more I don’t have to buff as long. Thanks for the working in sun tips. Might try it out sometime. Keep up the good work!
Good video. Thanks I've just ordered all the stuff I need. I have a 7" polisher, but it's 2000/3800 RPM. It's very old. It's too fast. So I ordered a variable speed.
Excellent video thank you so much
Would you recomend these materials if the boat is only slightly oxidated?
Yes !
Great video man! My father recently passed and we inherited his 28’ down east boat. It’s going on its 24 season and we have the same oxidation issue. I would love to try and restore the hull like this. Being a 28’ boat would you suggest a gallon of each bottle? Or do you use more of on than the other?
Thanks man! So sorry to hear of your fathers passing, I hope you got to spend time with him. Glad to hear he was a boater and you’re continuing on. I’d recommend having a gallon of the oxidation remover 49 but maybe not necessary to have as much polish. Make sure you wipe off all the polish with clean microfiber towels and then apply the wax and let it sit for 10 mins or so before wiping that off. Best of luck to you !
@@yachtworks370 thanks man! I really appreciate it! One last question ha. Do you think a cloudy over cast day with no rain in the future is good to do the buffing ? I have one side of the boat that is always in direct sun light so im hoping the cloud coverage will be enough to allow me to do the buffing. What do you think?
Never in the sun.
I'm no expert. Ha
were parts of that video speeded up or does this guy really work that fast ?
Hey Guys, Make sure you clean the surface first with a neutral ph Soap. I just use seventh generation dish soap. I've listed that in the description along with the other products used. Also, I'm getting a few questions about the BABY OIL... heres the thing guys, believe it or not, gel coat is actually a little bit pourous, and that's why it oxidizes... so when you buff out the oxidation you can then fill the tiny pourous holes with polish which has nutritous oils for the gel coat in itself and baby oil is just another oil that allows it to shine a bit more... make sure you give a good wipe down after polishing with a good microfiber cloth (link in the description) so all of the oil is absorbed into the tiny holes of the gel coat and there is no extra polish/oil on top.... because when you put the wax on after it has to settle on top and seal the deal. If you're on the fence about the baby oil, don't use it. Best of luck guys. #Boatlife
WOW. I've used Synthetic motor oil insted of baby oil and this even gave me additional hp. This is upgraded formula and it work!!!
Do you apply the baby oil with the wax as well? Or just the polish?
Im about to do this to a 2007 Malibu, but i do not want to remove the Gelcoat in the slightest, does using this remove the gelcoat? and i guess if i needed a paint correction, could i do this with out removing the gelcoat
It’s normal that Buffing will always remove a little gel coat….you don’t need a lot of pressure… just let the pad and product work… depending how much the boat is out in the elements, I recommend you or the owner every once and a while keep up on the polish and wax or just wax more often so you buff it less than you need to. Make sure the wax is applied for about 10 mins (not in sun) before wiping off with good clean microfiber towel. Best of luck with the Malibu!
Nice video. So the first step oxidation removal is restoring the boat color and shine???
Unless you have some scratches , then you’d want to wet sand first
How do you deal with name / hailing port decals, pin stripe tape, etc.? I haven't seen anyone address this and it definitely seems like it's easy to burn / buff them off with a rotary tool.
I was wondering how long it actually took to polish that one area in the video? Thinking about doing my 28foot trimaran. Thanks
Hey trimarans are cool! …It took maybe about 15 mins of actual work…. But all the in between parts adds time. Changing pads adding the product getting your buffing towels ready , moving the scaffolds or whatever you’re standing on, waiting between applying the wax and wiping it off, etc …. To make things go faster, buff the whole thing first and then do the polishing and waxing after. Get that baby shining! Best of luck !
Thanks for the reply. I'm gonna wait till October or November. Just too hot in Houston. That buffer looks like it could put a good shine on my 18 year old tundra too.
We’re moving into Winter here in the Puget Sound….talk to us about weather/temperature needs for this process. Obviously not rain…but is there a moisture factor or temperature factor that will impact the detailing? I’m following all your recommendations with products and so on.
Hi Kathy, there really shouldn’t be much problems in colder weather … the compound will heat up as you use it as well .. wax might be a little harder but not much. Cold is better than a really hot surface for the products. I’d just keep the products inside until you are ready to use them. Biggest problem might just be staying comfortable yourself 😬… best of luck on your boat
Great video, Thank you!
Two quick questions..
Did you use the baby oil just with the polish or with the wax too? Secondly, did you switch pads after the polish to a fresh one with the waxing or can you use same pad?
Baby oil just with polish, … you can use same pad but I would polish everything first then wax after. A different pad would be preferred though. Good luck !
Great video brother 👍
Thanks 👍
What do you recommend for skis? Don't feel this big buffer will get in tight spots in footwell area, etc. Maybe I'm wrong?
Hey thanks for your question. This rotary polisher is commonly used by the pros for jet skis : amzn.to/44pZW0V
My boat looks amazing now! I purchased all materials listed except the buffer. I tried buffer pad with the orbital polisher, but the adhesive on the Velcro doesn’t last very long, so I used the foam pads instead… I did follow all of your steps otherwise and she now shines. I wish I could submit a pic. Thanks for the video!
Hey that’s great to hear! Thanks for your comment and have fun out on the water looking good.
Looks good, but I can tell you from 15 years experience, if you only ever compound up and down like that and you don’t evenly cross hatch, you will unevenly remove the gelcoat. I’ve never seen the baby oil, I’m not really sold but I’ll have to try it. I don’t think using baby oil is good idea when applying wax as the paraffin and the oils in the compounds and polishes are supposed to be removed via an isopropyl alcohol wash prior to applying the wax. I’ll definitely try it next time I polish though. Also, don’t fall for the 3M bs of using their wax, it’s all carnuba based, and lasts a month tops. Use a polymer sealant like Jescar Power Lock Plus or a similar SiO2 polymer. That oxidation came off great. Also, huge fan of the Chem guys pad cleaner, just wish I could buy it in gallons. It’s so expensive for how little you get and they don’t sell that product in bulk for some reason. I’ve since moved to a different pad washing chemical and a grit guard bucket inserted pad washer that my employees love. Good video man.
Thanks for your input and info to the community here. You are right about going up. and down and side to side.., I didn't show everything as I cut out some shots and sped up in this video and went side to side more as I went along. I don't believe the flagship uses carnauba. 3M bought out Meguiars back in 2008, but I don't think they changed the ingredients. This was done back in August or so and the wax is still holding good. Thanks for the tip on polymer. I'll try that next time. I like the chem guys too.... Its powerful stuff... so much that I got sick first time using it. I don't recommend breathing it in. I'd like to see your grit guard bucket washer system. Thanks again for watching the video and for your great comments. Take care.
I've always washed my pads using woolite in the washing machine, or on-site using lots of water and just a touch of Dawn... Also important is spurring the pads to remove the buildup of excess compound and abraded gelcoat
Great video. Like the way you layout everything that we need. I'm doing inside the cabin, still very shiny in there, should I go straight to wax? Or polish first? Thanks.
Thanks ! Sorry , not sure what you mean ? Do you mean in the cockpit? If in the cabin what type of surface?
thanks for the tips mate, how do you apply the wax?
Hey, in this video I put it on the polishing pad, but you can just put it on a microfiber cloth... cover the area really well that youre working on and leave it for 5-10 minutes (depending on the temperature) before wiping off. Gluck luck !
Do both vertical and horizontal passes so you don’t have visible ghost streaking
Anytime you run a rotary your going to have holograms. That's why you should finish down with a polisher. If not your just covering the holograms with wax usually. Will be revealed after wax is removed
What setting do you use when you went to polishing and waxing? I have the same buffer! Thanks
Cool man … usually a little slower than compounding
The products that you recommended do you think it would be enough for a 34 foot cruiser? That also includes the pads.
Yeah should be good… I’d just do all the buffing first , cleaning out the pads as you go when they get gunked up, and then when done with all the buffing move onto polishing and then waxing … use a tool like this to clean pad when it gets gunked up : amzn.to/3Hg6t5N
@@yachtworks370 Thank you
A tip and a few questions. Soak the pads overnight in soap & water and put in a washing machine (extended clean). They will look like new. My gelcoat is heavily (heavily) oxidized, more than the video. Should I go with a heavier compound, like Supercut compound? (it feels gritty/sandy to the touch). 2) your thoughts on 3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material 3) when and for what do you suggest using a foam (sponge type) applicator, which you did not use on your machine in the video. Thanks and greetings from New York City!
Start with 500 abralon then 1000 abralon, follow with heavy cut pad + compound, then medium cut pad + compound, then orange foam with medium cut = mirror finish
@@Tardizard much appreciated
Thanks for contributing
Sorry I didn’t get back to you , if you still have questions let me know … I’m just here to help
Thank you. Terrific video!!!
Thank you ! Glad you liked it. Good luck !
can its do to car ?
Why the baby oil? I thought before protection you would need ipa whipe down to remove oils to prep surface before applying protection. Of course I say do to cars but this is a boat so I’m curious to know. Thanks
I pinned a comment to the top of the comments about the baby oil etc. Before doing anything, I actually cleaned the area with a neutral ph dish soap (7th generation) .FYI... also if you want to go green more, you can go with apple cider vinegar and baking soda
It's been two years now, how did that boat turn out?
It’s actually been longer than that as this video was not put out right away… some mild oxidation coming back…. About to hit it again, but won’t take near as much effort as in this video as it’s still shining pretty good. Might just polish and wax it. Boats been up the Gulf Stream and seen some crazy seas.
How much you recommend charging someone for the exact thing ?
I would like to know also.
I would like to know, as well. (BUMP)
Great video - thanks. Two quick questions. how much coverage should I expect from each bottle you've used. I'm about to renovate a 40ft boat, and will use your recommendations. Second question - the cloth you used to take off the wax - can that be any cloth, or something specific?
The bottles are plenty enough... give me a second and I’ll show you the cloths that I got...
Ya so you want microfiber buffer cloths
I put the link for those in the description
May be a silly question but what is the difference between polishing wax and finishing wax?
There’s no silly questions… polish has oils that feed into the porous gel coat and give it a nice glossy shine … wax then seals the deal by literally sealing everything in and providing protection from the elements.. best of luck
@@yachtworks370 thank you!!!
I am a little confused between the 7" and 9" pads. How does that work with a velcro base that is 7"? Need immediate responses as I need to order TODAY. TY!
Everything will work as listed in info… 7-9 inch is often compatible. Best of luck!
Awesome. Ty for sharing
If my family has a 3 year old boat that still is shiny and in good shape whats the best way to keep it that way and keep it long lasting
Give it a good wax every once in a while ! Use the wax I recommended … linked in description. Good luck !
Can this be done on a faded rv cap?? The color is grey, faded from the top then towards the bottom still has the gel coat
Thank you for the video perfect for us 😊
How does the meguires oxidation removal product compare to 3Ms super duty?
I’m partial to Meguiars but both will get the job done just fine. By the way, if you didn’t know, 3M acquired Meguiars back in 2008. Best of luck ! Get ‘er done!
would you recommend sanding
Wet sanding with a fine grit works yes … depends on your particular coat if you want to or not … if you’re here I’m sure you will figure it out … best of luck
Just leaving this comment for any fiberglass workers or boat detailers to discuss and share ideas and processes ive been working on boats, rvs, and jetskis for 2 years plus off and on for 6 im more than happy to share information
I'm new to detailing and was worried that using a rotary VS an orbital buffer will increase my level of screw up. Can I get 90% of what this guy did with an orbital sander? I am scared of ruining the boats surface and creating the dreaded swirls that will never come out
How much did you or would you charge for something like this?
There are a ton of variables , but for a boat like this , $40-50 per foot (40 ft boat = $1600-$2000)
Thanks for posting. Its great to see the process
Thanks for watching!
Does this destroy the gel coat? I am new to boats lmao. Do you need to put in a new gel coat after or no?
No it doesn’t destroy it… eventually after many many times of doing it, the gel coat will run thin. Just do it and then occasionally throw more wax on it and you won’t have to do it often.
Thank you for the information bro
I would like to see what it looks like after an alcohol wipe down before you apply wax. Wouldn't the baby oil cause the wax not to adhere to the gel coat? My guess is after about 3 to 4 washes the oxidation will bleed back through. Most people think it's just fading again. But it's because the oxidation was just hidden by the chemicals and oils . always do a alcohol wipe down after each step to see what's really going on with the gel coat. But this video is great if you are not looking for longevity and just want it to shine. Like what you said at the end of the video about having glass work and getting it redone. I understand why you did it this way. But for people who dont want to detail their boats 2 to 4 times a year I recommend a professional that uses a an alcohol wipe down after each step and inspects the gel coat for hidden oxidation and cleans the surface before applying wax.
Thanks for chiming in... these are great things to raise questions about so people can do further research. However, I will say that I worked alongside a guy that has done this for 50 plus years and the boat that I performed the job on in this video is STILL looking great. No oxidation whatsoever and this job was done in July of 2020. The only thing thats been done is a little more of the flagship wax was applied one time. Shes still looking great and been in all the elements for sometime now. .. thanks again for your comments.... I find it interesting that the designer of the boat in the video is Bob Perry... and your name is Bobby Perry. ; ) Take care!
what pad do you use for the first step? thanks
Buffing pad … if you look in the description below the video, everything is listed to get on Amazon. You have to open the description box for the links. Thanks for stopping by the vid and good luck with your projects.
Good video. How you liking the marine wax? Holding up?
Hey Jeremy thanks. Yeah... it's doing great so far. Just make sure you wait about 10 minutes (not in the sun) before wiping it off. Water just beads off the gelcoat now.
@@yachtworks370 nice. I’m probably going to end up using it on cars because my dad sold his boat so nothing to wax now
@@jeremys8360 marine waxes are specifically for marine surfaces and car products are the same. If you're an amazing detailing guru, use anything but there's a reason we don't mix the two products up.
If you’re gonna do multiple cars get the buffer I got ... it’s great. Once you get good , you could charge for your work. That buffer will last.
I just wanted to add on to local boy did goods comment... if your car is near salt water then you might as well do the same thing
I can see that oxidation remover as the abrasiveness needed to remove the oxidation but nothing works like 2000-3000 grit wet sand and then a chemguys ceramic wax 🤷🏽♂️
Wet sanding works but more and more detailers are getting away from wet sanding … makes such a mess and takes a lot longer. I usually only do it on deep scratches. But to each their own… thanks for watching and for your comment ! Best of luck !
Yeah it is pretty messy.I’m not by any means trying to knock your method or anything like that. I was just commenting on the texture of the product. I ve tried several products and methods for restoring clear coats and I can see the abrasiveness acting as fine 2000-3000 grit. I looks promising and I think I may try it out in the future. I’m not one of them people who is just on platforms insulting or leaving negative comments,that’s not me at all.I’m supportive of your hustle and best of luck to you as well.👊🏽
Man your arms dont get tired? Did my first boat the other day and my arms and back were killing me
Yes of course they do, but after you do it for a while you build up those muscles and it gets easier.... the next time it will be a little easier and so on .... stay hydrated... it helps : )
Yellow polishing pad is 9 inch did it fit ok consIdering the white wool pads were 7 INCH. Going to be my first time doing it so what to make sure i order properly . Thanks
Yeah they stick on good to the Dewalt buffer , good luck
Hi, how long does the gloss hold in your case ? I had several times the oxidation came back in a couple of weeks when the boat was back on the water. Any tips ? Thanks.
Hey Martijn, I've had my boat on the water for a couple months now and it is still shining... What does happen though is salt from the salt water will stick to the Wax a bit when it splashes up. This can be confused for oxidation sometimes. What I'm going to do soon though is get in my dinghy / tinder and go along side the boat wiping it down and adding a fresh coat of wax. This can be done at a dock as well if youre in a place where the water isn't calm enough. Best of luck!
I have a black hulled boat. I compound, Polish, and wax for the past few years before putting it in the water. It looks great when I’m done. But the oxidation returns very fast now. It doesn’t matter what product I use. I’ve used them all. 3M, Meguiars. Most recently Smoove Pro Cut 1000, which I find is the best. I keep my boat in the water from May 1 to December 1 usually and by December it’s really bad again. Chalky and faded. It sucks.
How many hours do you estimate it took you to do the whole 40' boat including washing first?
I'd say around 5 working days ... it would go faster in a less sunny environment.
If you really wanted to knock it out you could get it done much faster
Thanks for the tips! Question, can I use the same compound pad for the whole boat? Thanks
Good question ... It depends on the size of your boat and size of area you are buffing, and if you want to clean out your pad daily or not. You will most likely need more than one pad. On the boat in this video (40 ft sailboat with large buffing area) I used about 4 or 5 pads. Try to do as much buffing before polishing and waxing.... that way your compounding pad wont dry up and be difficult to work with as fast. It will gunk up if you use the same pad a lot and there are tools you can use to get the gunk out. Like this one : amzn.to/3vmH97c
Also the chemical guys cleaner which I linked in the description works for at the end of the day to clean out your pads... just don't breathe it in too much... thats why it works.
Ok thanks for the response. My boat is 21.5' so 2 or 3 pads? I'm just cleaning it once to sell it unfortunately
Shines nice....how about holograms?
Just wipe it off really good with fresh, clean microfiber towels … can’t get enough of those. This was obviously just a quick video… I wasn’t finished …. Check out my bottom paint video where I had more of it done. Thanks for stopping by !
@@yachtworks370 so you're telling me holograms are prevented by wiping with fresh towels? Who do you think you're lying to? Towles have nothing to do with holograms. You're dodging my question.......
Awesome info ! Will this process work with the vinyl lettering and stripes on an older Mastercraft Stars and Stripes ! Or does the process wear into the vinyl material ? Thanks again for this great info !
ya it will make it look better initially but if you are in salt water the elements will take their toll
I'm worried that a rotary buffer will be too strong for my amateur self, can I get similar results using an orbital buffer, 80/90%? I'm afraid to ruin the boat lol
It won’t ruin the boat… just don’t push really hard into the paint / gel coat. You can try an orbital but it would take so much longer and be a lot more tedious.
@@yachtworks370 OK I did what you said and bought a rotary buffer, a nice one Makita, so here goes nothing! Great video thanks for sharing
Diddy approves of this method
Where was your spacer nut on the spindle?
#45 uses caranuba (breaks down fast)
Adding baby oil would be appropriate if you just want to add oil to your gelcoat. Covering all that with flagship is 3 steps too far and doesn't help you. Just use the flagship and your compound.
A foundation of caranuba and oil can't support a polymer for long. Just an opinion from a guy who did over 100 boats a year for 14 years.
Thanks for your input and tips. I get all my info usually from researching cruiserforums. I'll remember what you said for next time and give it a shot.... sounds like less work : )
So what are you suggestion to not use?
So, I'm not seeing the carnauba listed in the #45 , however I do see it in #56 Wax , which I did not use in this video. After further research, I believe the #45 should be used ... "This polish is designed to penetrate the pores and remove contamination while depositing nourishing oils."
Local boydidgood --- Yes, this is absolutely the Truth..
No foundation of any wax or oil is going to be on the gelcoat long, and then it will fall off, taking whatever you applied on top of it with it..
This is why you really wash down the gelcoat and then apply your Polymer, etc., product on top of the clean gelcoat..
Putting anything on top of a wax, the same thing... The wax is the weakest link because - its just a wax... It will last a very short time, and its going to be gone along with everything else you put on top of the wax..
What RPM for Wax and for polish?
Hey Lee, anywhere from 1500-2000 will be fine for polishing, whatever you’re comfortable with…. waxing doesn’t have to be that fast and can even be done by hand , just let the wax sit for a 5-10 mins before wiping off (not in the sun , don’t let wax dry) Best of luck to you !
Are you gonna go back over and get the swirls out ?
This was done months ago, and yes, I cleaned it up a bit. Thanks for your comment Gavin.
What does the baby oil do with the polish? Why not just polish?
can i use the same process on an aluminum hull?
2:24 ok diddy
Haha , good one !
300 subscriber 👌🏼
How long does it last?
Depends on the elements … if your at sea full time the wax should last anywhere from 3-6 months , but because you’ve buffed it , you could simply clean it and reapply wax at a dock. If you are pulling the boat in and out of the water it should last longer, but try to avoid dusty roads and dirty environments as the dirt can cling to the wax a bit. If so, clean and rewax. You just don’t want it to oxidize again. Best of luck !
@@yachtworks370 Hey thanks so much Merry Christmas from Toronto!
@@leinad5243 Merry Christmas to you too !
Hey! how about a view of the end product?
If you check out my other video you can see it mostly done minus a couple places on port side which were done a little later after bottom paint
Thanks for your comment
Baby oil will keep wax from sticking - also up down and side to side. I would wash after compound yo remove oils.
thanks JMorgan, I disagree with the wax not sticking as it has stayed on for a year and a half now , and just as shiny as it used to be except for the salt water laying on top a bit..... however, YES, you should go side to side, as well, when buffing! Not seen in the video but it was done over the whole boat. Thanks for your comment and helping the community ! Take care.
How many buffer pads would you use for a 20 foot center console - in particular the stripping portion? Since all that gel coat came off do you need multiple pads?
Maybe a couple ... if you clean them with a hard brush and pad cleaner after, you can reuse them another day. You can use them again the same day as long as you keep them fresh... like don’t sit them in the sun or dry out and let them get all crusty. But if it’s really a particular job fresher pads are always better.
Looks great. Question! You mention not polishing in the sun. Is that because it's hot, hard work, or the sun does something bad to the actual surface/polish? Is that a problem only with Step 2 (polishing), or also with Oxidation removal and waxing? Thanks!
Hey Barry. Abrasives and Polishes don't work well on hot surfaces. I also don't like to work in the heat though : )
What if I just have a regular fiberglass Hall with no color or anything on it what do I do then?
I’m guessing you might want to paint it … here is a great video on topside paint for you to decide what topside paint to choose. : ruclips.net/video/BTPuaTFEGFo/видео.htmlsi=nfPkd84o1d92Z8S8
Awesome , helpful video. Thanks !
Glad it was helpful!
Hows all my seasoned detailers low back doing?
Shoulders strong ya ?
I've done air planes and bass boats but I'm in TN.. No big boats here lol.. That's some good money there.. I'd say in the range of 7k if I had to guess
ya, boat work aint cheap : ) Pretty cool you worked on planes! Thanks for watching and for your comment.
No suggestion for washing the boat first to remove grit and sea water deposits that break down the first step compound? Wow.
Hey Thanks for your comment Bill. You are correct, I actually made a couple videos and this upload didn't have the cleaning unfortunately. However, I did pin a comment at the top mentioning this and in the description below the video I link soap to use for cleaning first. Glad you made this comment to help others. Take care.
Looking to do this on my wakeboard boat. I have one blue stripe around the boat that I want to fix. How can you confirm its just Gelcoat Oxidation? When the blue stripe gets wet it looks good, only when its dry does it look oxidized.
it could just be a sticker stripe (depending on how big this stripe is) ...if you can feel it really layered on top then it's probably that, but if it's more flush with the rest it's probably gel coat. Sounds to me like it is gelcoat oxidation though since it's chalky out of the water. I can't be for sure without seeing it.
will this process help get some of the hairline cracks that are showing in my fiberglass gelcoat?
Hey Greg, It's possible, but you will most likely need to wet sand those cracks first. I might make a video on this in the future, but you can probably find other videos on it. Good Luck
What marine wax would you recommend that has a high UV protection for the gelcoat?
Hey Kelly, if you don't want to use the Flagship that I used in this video, other people have found success with the Scotchgard : amzn.to/3vLLi31
@@yachtworks370 I tried your method and wow, the red on my boat really pops out. I wish there was a way to show you my results.
@@MessianicJudaism Hey that's Great ! Glad you got it shining. Nice work !
CSI Q7 is a really great wax. Easy to apply and gives a really buttery finish. CSI is pretty amazing and used by pros.
@@enginepy Thanks for your input !