Hey bud it’s looking great! Couple of tips from a rv detailing shop owner. 1. Be smooth and a little slower with your passes. Make a pass then move down a little and make the next pass directly below it. Makes sure you don’t miss any spots and you don’t have to go over it 5 times. Second. MASKING TAPE is amazing. Mask off all those edges and trims you don’t want your product on. Sometimes back to black only works for a few days and your lines come back on the trim. Masking tape will guarantee they don’t get on it at all
I’m glad you included everything that you tried. I’m beginning to restore an old Coca Cola cooler. It’s pale pink from oxidation. The hardware store recommended turtle wax polish which I rubbed by hand with a rag. It helped just a little but I think I need to try something else . That one step might be the key. Thanks
Nice Video, Before you start buffing again I recommend stopping by a auto paint supply store and getting a yellow wool pad with a proper back up pad so it stays firmly attached. The yellow wool will be aggressive enough to remove oxidation but soft enough to polish to a brilliant shine once you bump the buffer speed up. medium to medium high speed should be more than sufficient to do what you are trying to do. 3M makes a good quality yellow wool. By the way for a do it yourself job I think you did excellent.
Great video and info bud 👍🏼 I mixed a cup of baking soda, 2 cups of vinegar, and 4 cups of ammonia and filled a 5 gallon pail with hot water. I filled a dollar store squirt bottle with the mixture from the pail to spray on and let it sit for a couple minutes. Then I just took a brush and started scrubbing. I used a sponge with a scrubby pad on one side (scotchbrite) for around the edges and windows. This really brightened my decals and removed the grime buildup as well as tree sap etc. my next step will be to try what you’ve suggested. It’s great to find other guys who share their success! Thanks again 👌🏼
great video and info. Some tips for your consideration, use painters tape to cover areas you don't want discolored with polish/compound. I would also say after spreading the product at a lower speed, raise the speed of the machine and use slower overlapping passes to work in the polish until break down. Lastly consider using a sprayer bottle with water over the polish/compound to help spread it and prevent gumming up. The polish work in time is a little bit longer with the spray of water.
I just bought a 21 year old Bigfoot Gel Coat fiberglass camper. I used 3M Superduty compound on a 9" double sided pad driven by a heavy Dewalt with slow start. The camper glass absolutely looks like factory new. Took me 3 days. Followed up with 3M Perfect it polish and ceramic wax. Feels like silk.
Thank you for posting this video, I did all you suggested and my Silverback looks almost as good as new......really impressed with this Mequiars 67 Thanks again!
Hi boss. 1st, love the effort and journey. Now that you have had some introduction into the world of gelcoat, I invite you to consider the following video as another option. The reason your B&D buffer had it's best results along your DMZ between "before" and "after" is because you probably hit that line, each and every time you were near it to leave a nice clean line, it did. You allowed the compound to work there longer than anywhere else in your working area. I've done this for almost 20 years. If you didn't wash the RV well after compounding, you'll see fade soon, especially if you trusted the bottle of #67 that claims to polish & PROTECT, it won't protect any more than spraying your RV with cooking oil so some but nothing real. Dont believe me? Call them like I did. You need more but I appreciate what you went through to get here. Lee
Dude, you saved my sanity! I spend 2 weeks using another Meguiar oxidation remover , polish and wax and it was pathetic, this stuff is great! I bought a bottle and hit a spot and was super excited! Thanks!
I think you explained it really well. I think you saved a lot of people a lot of trouble doing it through methods don’t work but seem like they would work… So good video. Thanks
Great tips. You saved us a lot of time and effort - not to mention $$ trying a variety of products. Followed your instructions and got our shiny RV back. Thanks
Thanks my man - I spent the afternoon with an orbital and Meguires polish and got 1 side done that really needs to be done over. I have a harbor freight right up the street so I'll give your method a go. Thanx agin.
You are amazing. The first bit of information I have had that sounds like it will work. Great video n thanks for sharing Susan my husband is going to love your video your the best ..
Great video brother! One suggestion: buy one of those hand held wheels to clean off accumulated gunk and polish. It spins as you turn on the buffer at low speeds. The stuff flies right off and you have a new wool pad surface to work with. Repeat as necessary.
You’ll get better results and it won’t take so much time if you clean the pad regularly while buffing. Just get a stiff piece of plastic or metal. Turn the buffer so the of is facing up. Turn the buffer on and then hold the plastic/metal and run it over the pad. It cleans out the dried out polish and you don’t have to wash it till you are all done. Other than that. Great video. Looks great! I do the same thing with my boats’ gel coat.
Big difference you did awesome, more people need to see this . meguiars is amazing and i hope they one day come out with a product that you can spray on and wipe or just put in a bucket and just wash it off. Hello, scientists where are you?
I gave it a try - bought a new buffer used the wool pads and the one step - I must now accept the fact that I have a have a learning disability as my camper has streaks everywhere - no matter how much I buff, I just can't look at it at sideways, quite nasty - At least my class A is tall enough when I jump off it I can do a lot of damage... so much so I will be incapable of trying this again...
Remember gelcoat is porous it retains dirt. You have to use rubbing compound that comes in blue bottles from meguires use a wool pad on a Dewalt buffer and be patient. Gelcoat is a tough substance you have to work a lot harder to cut it than say automotive clearcoat.
My ex, restores old cars. He buffs a lot. The way to clean your buffing pad,when it gets gummed up, is to take a screwdriver and hold the end of the blade at a slight angle against the pad as it’s turning at a medium speed, I think. Experiment with it. It doe do a good job of cleaning it. Start in the center and run your screwdriver out to the end of the pad. Hope this makes sense. I’ve never done it, but watched a lot.
We have the exact same camper. We bought used. The camper had set out in the Florida sun, for 3 years. Very oxidized. My husband buffed it using different products. He’s 77, but a strong tall guy, so he did ok, doing it. Wore him out. It started looking pretty good. He did burn a few spots. He doesn’t have a background in auto detailing. I sorta do via the ex. So, I warned him about staying in one spot too long. Anyway, plz never use TSP on your roof to clean it. He did and now out pretty shiny camper has white streaks, that we’re not sure we can get off. Looks awful. A video recommended TSP. He. Ought a medium cut compound and it looks a little better, but you can still see the streaks. TSP has citric acid in it. So it’s an acid burn. I’m so upset. I sent a message to the video maker. He of course laid it, off on the maker, of the sealer brand he was touting. He didn’t actually use TSP to clean his roof. So, just be careful what you use. We’re gonna keep at it, but ….who knows. May need to be wet sanded. Hope not. Good luck.
Nice job and NICE RV. So many people bust Harbor Freight. I have 3 Porter Cable NA/DA sander/polisher and a 11 inch Sears Buffer becuase there were now HF's in those days. Your keys are the right compound and pads and "Keep Moving" Thanks for posting, it saves many hours of experimenting. I have used McQuire products since 1986. My 2006 Ford Crouwn vice still looks new. Look into Mothers Clay bar kits. May be an idea for you.
I can’t wait to do mine! Side note; I’ve been using 303 aerospace UV protectant to stave off the daily effects of the sun, and it has been a great product for this purpose. You might consider looking into this product to enhance and protect your hard work. I really appreciate the video, and as I said I will be trying your method with the common sense suggestion comments that apply. Aloha, and happy camping.
I use 303 on my plastic parts, are you saying you use it on the fiberglass walls? I do see on the label that it can be used on fiberglass, but I was a bit worried coating my entire RV with the stuff
@@mse1333 I have had no negative issues. The rubber around the windows, and tires too. I use it on our cars as well. It seems to last for a few months on the sunny side, longer on the shade side. Happy camping. Aloha
Welcome to the fun of polishing. There is a brush and a wheel that are used to clean the pad. Try to do it after each section or two and you can do the whole job in a day. It also polishes more consistently with a clean pad. Using a rotary, it is possible to burn through the gel coat, so it is important to keep the machine moving and use a low speed setting. There are a number of sealants available that you spray on a wet surface and rinse off immediately. They will help a lot with preventing future oxidation so long as they are reapplied as needed
I have had a similar journey. My winnebago is white and I pulled decals off leaving sticker shadows and a pretty significant difference in white. I started by hand and have ended up with a dewalt professional polisher and started with wet sanding. I am however using this one step polish after a heavy compound. It is pretty incredible stuff. It seems to be the best single step stuff. Starting slow RPM keeps the grit heavy and speeding up really breaks it down and polishes. I am topping with Maguires marine wax.
@@PlanFree You know what? I ended up wrapping in white vinyl. I polished my ass off. But the laminate panels on my View just had wierd corrigated patterns showing and it just did not polish like the bubble. The bubble polished like a boat. It was super oxidized and polished like nothing. The vinyl wrap was easier to do than polishing for sure. At least for me it was. I used Vivvid vinyl and paid $500 for 100ft of it. So far so good. It is 1 year old now.
Awesome job, we just bought a 2001 Winnebago adventurer, outside has been neglected but overall in great shape. I will definitely try this Marine compound.
Thx for the vid..just a note..once you get the shine back make sure you use a synthetic sealer to seal the surface to avoid the chalky effect coming back....use a sealer such as turtle wax "seal and shine"..easy to apply and will give you at least 6 months of UV protection as well as a nice bead to help keep surface clean...avoid using organic waxes as they diserpate on first hot day or wash off after a few weeks
McGuires makes a 3 step. Depending on how much oxidation you may have to do it a few times. Key is to constantly clean off wool pad or try McGuires cutting pad it’s a maroon color foam pad which cuts through oxidation but cleaning pad is key to removing it better I do detailing on rv gel coats Once ya get it nice buy a cover to prevent and keep sun from doing it again wash regularly. It’s a lotta work but the reward is worth it
I don’t think anyone touched on this. Rotary polishers create speed swirl marks or “holograms” in the finish. For near perfect results you will also need to polish the finish again with a polish not a compound. You will need a DA Dual Action Polisher or Random orbital polisher to get rid of those speed swirl marks you will create with a rotary polisher. Either way there is no simple easy way to do this process. It takes quality time to get quality results. Just know ahead of time this will not be an easy one day only task. Just work on one section at a time. Don’t overwhelm yourself.
Is that a harborfreight polisher? I have a chicago electric and it works well but I never tried it on my rv ,I guess I gotta try thanks for sharing my man
I tried this on the front of my camper and now in the sun I can see all these swirl marks. I used a wool pad and buffer. Do I need to apply a wax to get this out now?
I got a 2010 rpod that i removed all the decals, so its got dull n shiney bits, i got a buffer, different pad grades, the same miguired compound to hopefully polish all of it out nicely. Also plan to clean up the rims /paint them, polish the aluminum fenders also
I hired a company in Vegas to take that shit off for me. They sent out a young man with a big pack of scotch bright pads, a ladder, and a hose. He sanded the whole thing by hand and just rinsed it off and it looked fantastic for years afterwards.
Hi I have an aluminum camper with the compounds you're describing work on the aluminum product? And most of all and most important which I should have said first I guess, is I have a 2006 VW Volkswagen that has that old paint look on the Hub Cap cover and on some on the front of the car it's a navy blue and I try to compound and I tried of course I'm so I'm older so I'm not that strong and then I try to small buffer tool and I tried a buffing compound do you think that these compounds and a stronger tool might get off the paint finish I can't even talk this is so foreign to me do you think these products might help with the Volkswagen finish? If there's typos I'm doing voice to text because I have hand problems but I would get a guy to help me do this on my car one of my friends is real strong a guy okay God forgive me if this is just a hot mess thank you Debbie
Great Video! Enjoyed not only the recommendations for products but how they were put on. I find doing it myself, I can control the result because I care the most.The people I hired to do it didn't do the quality job I was wanting.
Get ya a spur tool to keep that wool pad clean and not all gummed up. Will make buff better as well with a clean pad. Nice job. Looks good. I have a cougar as well. I use 3D speed on mine. It also works well.
great video, Personally I wouldn't go past about 1/2 speed on the buffer. You don't want to create too much heat. Just keep the buffer moving and pace yourself. 👍
The only thing that would speed up the process is keeping that wool pad clean. Use compressed air or a spur to keep the pad clean. Keeping a buffing pad clean is essential to efficient and proper application.
Definitely!! Good suggestion. We had a company called named" Hill Country Shine" in New Braunfels / Canyon Lake do our first detail! They are amazing. The Owner sent me a list of everything they he uses and I purchased it on Amazon. Dewalt variable speed buffer. 3M products, Wool pad plus everything else... Works great. Cleaning the pad with a spur was the first thing I noticed!! Taping for accurate work!!!
Great video! Thank you. You found how aggressive you have to be with fiberglass, gelcoats etc. to cut through heavy oxidation. One suggestion...clean out your pads after every section. Or, have a BUNCH of clean pads and switch out to a fresh pad often. Pads load up quickly with dead paint and compound product which lessens the effectiveness. I'd have maybe 20 pads to do an RV or 5-7 pads with frequent cleanups. Excellent results you got, my friend. Be proud, very proud. One su
Helpful and informative. Thanks. I have a better idea of what my project needs. I’m restoring a not vintage but old CocaCola chest cooler . The kind on legs with casters. It’s faded to a dusty bubble gum pink. I’ve been rubbing it with the turtle wax polish that the hardware store recommended and my arm wants to falls off. Now I have a better idea of how to proceed. Thank you
Hey bro you are doing it right but it’s better to apply just the marine wax apply the marine wax to the a rag and once it in the rag apply it to the the parts where you are going to buff it to but you have to apply good amount of wax so it won’t dry and the process will look good I specialize in rvs
I used same meguiars with polish with 7 in disc took oxidation off great but certain angles in sun you can see swirl marks next time I will try rotating type buffer
What do you think of Poliglow? I've heard some good things about that stuff. We have the same issue with our Cougar. Its identical to yours. Faded out on one side from the sun, so looking to find the best Products for the job. Planning to work on this in early spring.
One pad was enough for me. I did it over a couple weekends instead of all at once and I did wash the pad out and let it dry. If you're going to try and do a large trailer all at one time you might be better off to have more than one pad just because they take a while to dry out.
Buy some one restore from eco chem and have them tell you the ratio to use for the fiberglass. Mix it in a pump up sprayer and spray on and let dwell. Then simply rinse with a garden hose and it will wash the oxidation away with no buffing. I own an exterior cleaning company and that’s what we use for removing oxidation on houses. Never done fiberglass which is why I recommend eco chem telling you what ratio to use.
Hey I really appreciate your video because I have the “EXACT” camper and problem and after spending a full day trying everything. I came across you vid. Thank you so much and great video.
Thanks for the video. I read in one of the comments you can clean the pad? Did you do that, how do you do it and how pads did you end up using for your rv? Mine is only 23.5 ft class c. Thanks again!
I spent a couple days completing this project and washed the pad out and let it dry between days. Someone else had commented about a way to clean the pad while buffing. I did not try that, but I'm sure it would help because the pads did load up with compound.
Thx, been looking for such a review. Our Winnebago Ultralight travel trailer is showing similar oxidation. I will definitely give these products a try.
Best way to remove oxidation is to dry sand with 1000 grit or 1200 grit to remove most of the oxidation. It will fall off like powder and you will start to see the Shine. Then do it just how you explained!! But you did great And I been detailing RVs for 10 years! The dry sand will stop any gum up because you remove the oxidation mostly which is like powder. Slow process no doubt lol
You are absolutely insane. Dry sanding or wet sanding should only be done in rare cases. That is absolute madness to wither down a thin enough clear coat as it is. He should be compounding it with a circular buffer, not a DA. Da’s are great for waxing but absolutely should not be used for compounding. Your sanding advice is absolutely terrible.
Thanks so much for your video. Have the identical problem you had and was using the same compound. Like you I just wasn’t getting the results I was looking for. Switched to a wool pad and that did the trick. Thanks so much for your info!!
Before using polish you could try to use a cleaner / wax product with a random orbital buffer and wool pad. If that doesn’t get the oxidation off then polish is likely required.
Great video, I watched several times. Just got the One Step No. 67 in the mail today. I am still up in the air about the wool pad. Looking at the one that you mentioned I noticed a lot of complaints about hair and wool fibers coming off of the pad. Did you noticed this or have the same problem If so is there anything that will solve the issue. Again thank you for taking the time to do this video, the best video out there on oxidation removal. Cheers
We have a 2013 Winnebago travel trailer it’s cherry red, every year I’ve got wet sand and buff then polish then apply wax. I’ll try this meguiars hopefully it works
Amazing difference! - I have a 27 foot 2014 Forest River Ultra Lite TT - It is starting to look a little "chalky" - I've ordered the compound you use and I'll see how it does with a buffer I already have - Thanks for the great videeo - Cheers!
@@glenngray1201 I found it difficult to apply and remove (buff) but temperature and humidity can vary these results greatly. - Good luck with it! It did a good job on lightly oxidized area - I ran out of gas (personally) to do too much of the RV.
What about the lower part of your rv the brown trim. Did it turn white or did you not use the compound o. The brown trim? If you did how did you prevent it from turning white? This is great info. My plastic is the part i am not sure on how to prevent from changing colors. Not the black part.
Not sure with a wool pad, but when I do my cars I lightly wet the pad also to prevent gumming.. also I would use a ton less compound and smaller work areas,, that said have not done my travel trailer yet and after an hour Ill probably be like "screw it" and doing 12 x 12 foot areas hahaha.. Thank you for posting.. now I need spring to get here.. ug
great video, i too have an oxidized rv, got it shining and the sun took it back to the oxidized state in a month, what has been your experience with it staying nice in the sun after all this great work? thanks
I found that you really need to keep up with waxing a 2x a year or I tested a ceramic coating that seems to be lasting longer. Without any follow-up it will go back.
good to hear the waxing is lasting, makes me really want to try again, i think i should have tried a synthetic wax and/or done a better job to remove the oil from the polish as oxidation was back in under 2 months (az sun). thanks a bunch :)
Great video topic. Questions, How old is your RV, and is this the 1st time you've polished it? Do you use the same process on the front cap, with bugs? Bug removal can be it's own video I think. Thanks for the links.
John, my cougar is a 2015 and this is the first time. You are correct about bugs being its own topic. I actually filmed a video showing what I use for bugs, just haven't edited and posted it yet. Thanks, Jason
Jon, I have an 2018 Outback 330 RL travel trailer. I've used the Mequires RV wax but i don't know what to use on the trim around the slides. It's the 3' wide flat plastic molding around the slides. It seems like it is sold black plastic and it is faded and uneven in color. I'm not sure what it is made of and i don't know how to care for it. Any recommendations? Thanks.
My 5th wheel has the same "one-sided" fade issue. The hardware guy at Home Depot suggested an angle grinder with a flap disc abrasive pad to quickly cut through the oxidation. I told him about your method, and he said time is money, don't screw around. I don't want to do more work than I have to- what do you think is the better way?
A flap disc is very abrasive and could easily remove the gel coat completely. I would be afraid to even wet sand with a high grit and water using a flap disc.
So glad i watched this. I just noticed oxidation or fading on my 2018. Didn't seem as noticeable when i bought it in January. But definitely showed up after cleaning my rubber roof. I had already purchased a harbor freight 6" palm polisher to apply ceremic wax to the camper. So i hope to use it on the front cap with the meguiar's one step compund. If i listened correctly, you recommend using a wool applicator?
@@WeekendRVAdventures so i got my meguiar's one step compund and gave it a try using a 6" palm polisher on my front cap. It worked great, but im definitely upgrading to a a bigger polisher like you were using. I think a second pass using that will really bring out the shine. Then I'll apply some meguiar's ceremic wax.
Hey bud it’s looking great! Couple of tips from a rv detailing shop owner.
1. Be smooth and a little slower with your passes. Make a pass then move down a little and make the next pass directly below it. Makes sure you don’t miss any spots and you don’t have to go over it 5 times.
Second. MASKING TAPE is amazing. Mask off all those edges and trims you don’t want your product on. Sometimes back to black only works for a few days and your lines come back on the trim.
Masking tape will guarantee they don’t get on it at all
Jon, thanks for all the advice I appreciate it.
I’m glad you included everything that you tried. I’m beginning to restore an old Coca Cola cooler. It’s pale pink from oxidation. The hardware store recommended turtle wax polish which I rubbed by hand with a rag. It helped just a little but I think I need to try something else . That one step might be the key. Thanks
I only did 1000rpms with a mist of water over surface and it left halograms/ swirls very light pressure I do not get what I did wrong
I appreciate so much that you left a constructive and positive comment - awesome! Sounds like great advice!
Nice Video, Before you start buffing again I recommend stopping by a auto paint supply store and getting a yellow wool pad with a proper back up pad so it stays firmly attached. The yellow wool will be aggressive enough to remove oxidation but soft enough to polish to a brilliant shine once you bump the buffer speed up. medium to medium high speed should be more than sufficient to do what you are trying to do. 3M makes a good quality yellow wool. By the way for a do it yourself job I think you did excellent.
Great video and info bud 👍🏼
I mixed a cup of baking soda, 2 cups of vinegar, and 4 cups of ammonia and filled a 5 gallon pail with hot water. I filled a dollar store squirt bottle with the mixture from the pail to spray on and let it sit for a couple minutes. Then I just took a brush and started scrubbing. I used a sponge with a scrubby pad on one side (scotchbrite) for around the edges and windows.
This really brightened my decals and removed the grime buildup as well as tree sap etc. my next step will be to try what you’ve suggested. It’s great to find other guys who share their success! Thanks again 👌🏼
great video and info. Some tips for your consideration, use painters tape to cover areas you don't want discolored with polish/compound. I would also say after spreading the product at a lower speed, raise the speed of the machine and use slower overlapping passes to work in the polish until break down. Lastly consider using a sprayer bottle with water over the polish/compound to help spread it and prevent gumming up. The polish work in time is a little bit longer with the spray of water.
Thanks for the tips
would you spray the water on the panel after you’ve applied the compound ?
I just bought a 21 year old Bigfoot Gel Coat fiberglass camper. I used 3M Superduty compound on a 9" double sided pad driven by a heavy Dewalt with slow start. The camper glass absolutely looks like factory new. Took me 3 days. Followed up with 3M Perfect it polish and ceramic wax. Feels like silk.
I used same product it last for three month then i found poli gro product supposed last for five years no buffing required
Awesome video my friend... You're doing anyone that watches this a huge service... I greatly appreciate your time you spent making this video
Thank you
Thank you for posting this video, I did all you suggested and my Silverback looks almost as good as new......really impressed with this Mequiars 67 Thanks again!
Hi boss.
1st, love the effort and journey. Now that you have had some introduction into the world of gelcoat, I invite you to consider the following video as another option.
The reason your B&D buffer had it's best results along your DMZ between "before" and "after" is because you probably hit that line, each and every time you were near it to leave a nice clean line, it did. You allowed the compound to work there longer than anywhere else in your working area.
I've done this for almost 20 years. If you didn't wash the RV well after compounding, you'll see fade soon, especially if you trusted the bottle of #67 that claims to polish & PROTECT, it won't protect any more than spraying your RV with cooking oil so some but nothing real. Dont believe me? Call them like I did.
You need more but I appreciate what you went through to get here.
Lee
Hi, Lee, do you have a video? I have an 18 year old RV and would like your expertise and help. Thanks!
Dude, you saved my sanity! I spend 2 weeks using another Meguiar oxidation remover , polish and wax and it was pathetic, this stuff is great! I bought a bottle and hit a spot and was super excited! Thanks!
How'd it look and hold up after you finished he job?
It held up for a season, but needs to be waxed regularly or it did start to fade again
I think you explained it really well. I think you saved a lot of people a lot of trouble doing it through methods don’t work but seem like they would work…
So good video. Thanks
Thank you!
Great tips. You saved us a lot of time and effort - not to mention $$ trying a variety of products. Followed your instructions and got our shiny RV back. Thanks
Thanks my man - I spent the afternoon with an orbital and Meguires polish and got 1 side done that really needs to be done over. I have a harbor freight right up the street so I'll give your method a go. Thanx agin.
Thanks for this vid I feel confident now buffing my rig by my self
Your welcome 👍
You are amazing. The first bit of information I have had that sounds like it will work. Great video n thanks for sharing Susan my husband is going to love your video your the best ..
Thank you!!!
Great video brother! One suggestion: buy one of those hand held wheels to clean off accumulated gunk and polish. It spins as you turn on the buffer at low speeds. The stuff flies right off and you have a new wool pad surface to work with. Repeat as necessary.
Thanks for the suggestion!
You’ll get better results and it won’t take so much time if you clean the pad regularly while buffing. Just get a stiff piece of plastic or metal. Turn the buffer so the of is facing up.
Turn the buffer on and then hold the plastic/metal and run it over the pad.
It cleans out the dried out polish and you don’t have to wash it till you are all done.
Other than that. Great video. Looks great! I do the same thing with my boats’ gel coat.
Thanks for the tip!
Big difference you did awesome, more people need to see this . meguiars is amazing and i hope they one day come out with a product that you can spray on and wipe or just put in a bucket and just wash it off. Hello, scientists where are you?
Thanks, something you could spray or wipe on would be awesome.
Consider Graphene nano spray and wipe once the color in the gel coat has been buffed.
You took a lot of the pain and hassle out for us.. much appreciated for sharing your experience.
Thanks!
I gave it a try - bought a new buffer used the wool pads and the one step - I must now accept the fact that I have a have a learning disability as my camper has streaks everywhere - no matter how much I buff, I just can't look at it at sideways, quite nasty - At least my class A is tall enough when I jump off it I can do a lot of damage... so much so I will be incapable of trying this again...
Remember gelcoat is porous it retains dirt. You have to use rubbing compound that comes in blue bottles from meguires use a wool pad on a Dewalt buffer and be patient. Gelcoat is a tough substance you have to work a lot harder to cut it than say automotive clearcoat.
Try a RANDOM orbital. Usually a lot more forgiving with swirl marks than a straight orbital
Great video I have the same problem I will try it with an orbital no-fault buffer it won't burn to finish it orbits and turns at the same time
My ex, restores old cars. He buffs a lot. The way to clean your buffing pad,when it gets gummed up, is to take a screwdriver and hold the end of the blade at a slight angle against the pad as it’s turning at a medium speed, I think. Experiment with it. It doe do a good job of cleaning it. Start in the center and run your screwdriver out to the end of the pad. Hope this makes sense. I’ve never done it, but watched a lot.
We have the exact same camper. We bought used. The camper had set out in the Florida sun, for 3 years. Very oxidized. My husband buffed it using different products. He’s 77, but a strong tall guy, so he did ok, doing it. Wore him out. It started looking pretty good. He did burn a few spots. He doesn’t have a background in auto detailing. I sorta do via the ex. So, I warned him about staying in one spot too long. Anyway, plz never use TSP on your roof to clean it. He did and now out pretty shiny camper has white streaks, that we’re not sure we can get off. Looks awful. A video recommended TSP. He. Ought a medium cut compound and it looks a little better, but you can still see the streaks. TSP has citric acid in it. So it’s an acid burn. I’m so upset. I sent a message to the video maker. He of course laid it, off on the maker, of the sealer brand he was touting. He didn’t actually use TSP to clean his roof. So, just be careful what you use. We’re gonna keep at it, but ….who knows. May need to be wet sanded. Hope not. Good luck.
Perfect explanation from a tested source. Thx!
Just used your method to remove oxidization on my 2019 FR3. Worked GREAT, Really appreciate your video.
Thanks!
Nice job and NICE RV. So many people bust Harbor Freight. I have 3 Porter Cable NA/DA sander/polisher and a 11 inch Sears Buffer becuase there were now HF's in those days. Your keys are the right compound and pads and "Keep Moving" Thanks for posting, it saves many hours of experimenting. I have used McQuire products since 1986. My 2006 Ford Crouwn vice still looks new. Look into Mothers Clay bar kits. May be an idea for you.
I can’t wait to do mine!
Side note;
I’ve been using 303 aerospace UV protectant to stave off the daily effects of the sun, and it has been a great product for this purpose. You might consider looking into this product to enhance and protect your hard work. I really appreciate the video, and as I said I will be trying your method with the common sense suggestion comments that apply. Aloha, and happy camping.
I use 303 on my plastic parts, are you saying you use it on the fiberglass walls? I do see on the label that it can be used on fiberglass, but I was a bit worried coating my entire RV with the stuff
@@mse1333
I have had no negative issues.
The rubber around the windows, and tires too.
I use it on our cars as well. It seems to last for a few months on the sunny side, longer on the shade side.
Happy camping. Aloha
That’s a lot of work when you could just use 303. It’s good enough for the space shuttle I’m sure it’s good enough for the RV.
.@@EuropeanMotorCompanyFlagstaff
Thanks for the video, just purchased a 36ft Keystone Cougar 5th wheel where the drivers side is really oxidized, gonna give this a try.
Thank for making this video , we are about to tackle our 35ft Winnie and this video really helped us out
Your welcome
Thank you for sharing! I have my first trailer I’m detailing with bad oxidation and was fighting it. This helps a-lot.
Awesome looks!
Welcome to the fun of polishing. There is a brush and a wheel that are used to clean the pad. Try to do it after each section or two and you can do the whole job in a day. It also polishes more consistently with a clean pad. Using a rotary, it is possible to burn through the gel coat, so it is important to keep the machine moving and use a low speed setting. There are a number of sealants available that you spray on a wet surface and rinse off immediately. They will help a lot with preventing future oxidation so long as they are reapplied as needed
Ryan, thanks for the advice
Can you name a few of the sealants?
@@toolgirl30Poliglow or 303 protectant are both good sealants after the hard work that have UV protection…
I have had a similar journey. My winnebago is white and I pulled decals off leaving sticker shadows and a pretty significant difference in white. I started by hand and have ended up with a dewalt professional polisher and started with wet sanding. I am however using this one step polish after a heavy compound. It is pretty incredible stuff. It seems to be the best single step stuff. Starting slow RPM keeps the grit heavy and speeding up really breaks it down and polishes. I am topping with Maguires marine wax.
How did it ultimately turn out for you,
We have a 2003 Winnebago also with some all over oxidization. Not very sexy! We're considering this process.
@@PlanFree You know what? I ended up wrapping in white vinyl. I polished my ass off. But the laminate panels on my View just had wierd corrigated patterns showing and it just did not polish like the bubble. The bubble polished like a boat. It was super oxidized and polished like nothing. The vinyl wrap was easier to do than polishing for sure. At least for me it was. I used Vivvid vinyl and paid $500 for 100ft of it. So far so good. It is 1 year old now.
Nice looking rig you did great im tring the maguires😊
Thanks for the vid! Just used your links for the compound and wool pad.
Awesome! Thanks you!
This is exactly what I needed to know. I have the Laredo, your trailers sister. Same color etc. Same issue. Thank you!
Did you get to use this method for your Laredo? How did it work? Any pictures?
Awesome job, we just bought a 2001 Winnebago adventurer, outside has been neglected but overall in great shape. I will definitely try this Marine compound.
Thanks, good luck!
Did you get to use this method for your 2001 Winnebago? How did it work? Any pictures?
Thx for the vid..just a note..once you get the shine back make sure you use a synthetic sealer to seal the surface to avoid the chalky effect coming back....use a sealer such as turtle wax "seal and shine"..easy to apply and will give you at least 6 months of UV protection as well as a nice bead to help keep surface clean...avoid using organic waxes as they diserpate on first hot day or wash off after a few weeks
Thanks for the tips.
McGuires makes a 3 step. Depending on how much oxidation you may have to do it a few times. Key is to constantly clean off wool pad or try McGuires cutting pad it’s a maroon color foam pad which cuts through oxidation but cleaning pad is key to removing it better
I do detailing on rv gel coats
Once ya get it nice buy a cover to prevent and keep sun from doing it again wash regularly. It’s a lotta work but the reward is worth it
I just used pollyglow on my 2018 Laredo that looks almost like the same exact rv. My rig shines better than new and it's uv protected.
Good info. I will be trying this process later in the fall when temps are lower.
Thanks been trying different products and methods without success
I don’t think anyone touched on this. Rotary polishers create speed swirl marks or “holograms” in the finish. For near perfect results you will also need to polish the finish again with a polish not a compound. You will need a DA Dual Action Polisher or Random orbital polisher to get rid of those speed swirl marks you will create with a rotary polisher. Either way there is no simple easy way to do this process. It takes quality time to get quality results. Just know ahead of time this will not be an easy one day only task. Just work on one section at a time. Don’t overwhelm yourself.
How long did the finish last? I’ve done all of that multiple times and it last for a few months.
Excellent job and great info Ty. I like Harbor Freight products Meguiars also.
Thanks!
Is that a harborfreight polisher? I have a chicago electric and it works well but I never tried it on my rv ,I guess I gotta try thanks for sharing my man
Thank you for posting this-I will have to give this a try. Looks worth the time/effort..
I tried this on the front of my camper and now in the sun I can see all these swirl marks. I used a wool pad and buffer. Do I need to apply a wax to get this out now?
I got a 2010 rpod that i removed all the decals, so its got dull n shiney bits, i got a buffer, different pad grades, the same miguired compound to hopefully polish all of it out nicely. Also plan to clean up the rims /paint them, polish the aluminum fenders also
I hired a company in Vegas to take that shit off for me. They sent out a young man with a big pack of scotch bright pads, a ladder, and a hose. He sanded the whole thing by hand and just rinsed it off and it looked fantastic for years afterwards.
😂
Hi I have an aluminum camper with the compounds you're describing work on the aluminum product? And most of all and most important which I should have said first I guess, is I have a 2006 VW Volkswagen that has that old paint look on the Hub Cap cover and on some on the front of the car it's a navy blue and I try to compound and I tried of course I'm so I'm older so I'm not that strong and then I try to small buffer tool and I tried a buffing compound do you think that these compounds and a stronger tool might get off the paint finish I can't even talk this is so foreign to me do you think these products might help with the Volkswagen finish? If there's typos I'm doing voice to text because I have hand problems but I would get a guy to help me do this on my car one of my friends is real strong a guy okay God forgive me if this is just a hot mess thank you Debbie
Looks like your comment slipped thru the cracks of comments.. hope you found your solution..
Great Video! Enjoyed not only the recommendations for products but how they were put on. I find doing it myself, I can control the result because I care the most.The people I hired to do it didn't do the quality job I was wanting.
Thanks, I know what you mean about doing it yourself.
How long did your RV look good? Ours seem to dull about 3 months later.
That pad will work like new again if you clean it. It's all gummed up. Try a spur tool.
Get ya a spur tool to keep that wool pad clean and not all gummed up. Will make buff better as well with a clean pad. Nice job. Looks good. I have a cougar as well. I use 3D speed on mine. It also works well.
great video, Personally I wouldn't go past about 1/2 speed on the buffer. You don't want to create too much heat. Just keep the buffer moving and pace yourself. 👍
Thanks I am gonna try it on mine which has a lot of decals
Great job. It will be my next project, before my wife find any other one for me.
Thanks lol
The only thing that would speed up the process is keeping that wool pad clean. Use compressed air or a spur to keep the pad clean. Keeping a buffing pad clean is essential to efficient and proper application.
You should have a spur to clean your wool pad. Tape whatever your do not want compound on.
Definitely!! Good suggestion. We had a company called named" Hill Country Shine" in New Braunfels / Canyon Lake do our first detail! They are amazing. The Owner sent me a list of everything they he uses and I purchased it on Amazon. Dewalt variable speed buffer. 3M products, Wool pad plus everything else... Works great. Cleaning the pad with a spur was the first thing I noticed!! Taping for accurate work!!!
Great video! Thank you. You found how aggressive you have to be with fiberglass, gelcoats etc. to cut through heavy oxidation.
One suggestion...clean out your pads after every section. Or, have a BUNCH of clean pads and switch out to a fresh pad often. Pads load up quickly with dead paint and compound product which lessens the effectiveness. I'd have maybe 20 pads to do an RV or 5-7 pads with frequent cleanups.
Excellent results you got, my friend. Be proud, very proud.
One su
Thanks!
I'll definitely let you know and thanks for sharing!!!!
Great Video and Info !!!
Helpful and informative. Thanks. I have a better idea of what my project needs. I’m restoring a not vintage but old CocaCola chest cooler . The kind on legs with casters. It’s faded to a dusty bubble gum pink. I’ve been rubbing it with the turtle wax polish that the hardware store recommended and my arm wants to falls off. Now I have a better idea of how to proceed. Thank you
Sounds like a fun project! Good luck!!!
Hey bro you are doing it right but it’s better to apply just the marine wax apply the marine wax to the a rag and once it in the rag apply it to the the parts where you are going to buff it to but you have to apply good amount of wax so it won’t dry and the process will look good I specialize in rvs
Thanks for the advice
Jovany, I you would bro please hit me up at lwpsdp@gmail.com. I need your help with a few things with RV detailing. Thank you, Mark.
Are you saying to wax it before hitting it with the buffer and buffing compound?
Appreciate you posting this information! I have a red work N play toyhauler that has oxidized. I've been working on it but this will help greatly!!
May I suggest a cover for it when it’s done so you don’t need to that again ..😊
I used same meguiars with polish with 7 in disc took oxidation off great but certain angles in sun you can see swirl marks next time I will try rotating type buffer
HI. looking good update on how is the one step meguiars holding up is it still shines
It held up for a while, but needed a good coat of wax the next season.
I'm gonna try the wool pads. Been using Maguires marine/rv but wasn't getting the result I want. Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome, good luck
Good video. What did you use for the thin metal covering on the bottom to restore finish?
What do you think of Poliglow? I've heard some good things about that stuff. We have the same issue with our Cougar. Its identical to yours. Faded out on one side from the sun, so looking to find the best
Products for the job. Planning to work on this in early spring.
Great info, thank u for posting. Is one buffing pad enough for the whole rig?
One pad was enough for me. I did it over a couple weekends instead of all at once and I did wash the pad out and let it dry. If you're going to try and do a large trailer all at one time you might be better off to have more than one pad just because they take a while to dry out.
Great video man
Buy some one restore from eco chem and have them tell you the ratio to use for the fiberglass. Mix it in a pump up sprayer and spray on and let dwell. Then simply rinse with a garden hose and it will wash the oxidation away with no buffing. I own an exterior cleaning company and that’s what we use for removing oxidation on houses. Never done fiberglass which is why I recommend eco chem telling you what ratio to use.
Jeremy, how long do you leave the product on, before rinsing it off?
Hey I really appreciate your video because I have the “EXACT” camper and problem and after spending a full day trying everything. I came across you vid. Thank you so much and great video.
You're welcome, thank you too!
Thanks for the video. I read in one of the comments you can clean the pad? Did you do that, how do you do it and how pads did you end up using for your rv? Mine is only 23.5 ft class c. Thanks again!
I spent a couple days completing this project and washed the pad out and let it dry between days. Someone else had commented about a way to clean the pad while buffing. I did not try that, but I'm sure it would help because the pads did load up with compound.
Thx, been looking for such a review. Our Winnebago Ultralight travel trailer is showing similar oxidation. I will definitely give these products a try.
Best way to remove oxidation is to dry sand with 1000 grit or 1200 grit to remove most of the oxidation. It will fall off like powder and you will start to see the Shine. Then do it just how you explained!! But you did great And I been detailing RVs for 10 years! The dry sand will stop any gum up because you remove the oxidation mostly which is like powder. Slow process no doubt lol
You are absolutely insane. Dry sanding or wet sanding should only be done in rare cases. That is absolute madness to wither down a thin enough clear coat as it is. He should be compounding it with a circular buffer, not a DA. Da’s are great for waxing but absolutely should not be used for compounding. Your sanding advice is absolutely terrible.
Thanks so much for your video. Have the identical problem you had and was using the same compound.
Like you I just wasn’t getting the results I was looking for.
Switched to a wool pad and that did the trick.
Thanks so much for your info!!
Thanks. Been working with one step but was unsure of some things that you helped answer
Your welcome
Before using polish you could try to use a cleaner / wax product with a random orbital buffer and wool pad. If that doesn’t get the oxidation off then polish is likely required.
No cleaner or wax will remove oxidization
Great video, I watched several times. Just got the One Step No. 67 in the mail today. I am still up in the air about the wool pad. Looking at the one that you mentioned I noticed a lot of complaints about hair and wool fibers coming off of the pad. Did you noticed this or have the same problem If so is there anything that will solve the issue. Again thank you for taking the time to do this video, the best video out there on oxidation removal. Cheers
Thank you. I did notice some wool fibers, but they wipe off easily with a clean towel after you are done buffing.
@@WeekendRVAdventures Thankyou
We have a 2013 Winnebago travel trailer it’s cherry red, every year I’ve got wet sand and buff then polish then apply wax. I’ll try this meguiars hopefully it works
I also have a cherry red Winnebago, which I bought used and faded… so it’s actually more of a pink 😅
@@NicholeOlive nice campers except all the work to keep it looking good, 3M makes a better product than meguiars I think
Did you have any problem with your decals if you go over with wax ? Cracked decals or problem color ? THanks.
I did not, but if they are already cracked I'm not sure... They might get ripped loose?
How long did it last...mine went chalky again after one season. I even waxed it after polish with UV protection...still came back.
Unfortunately I had the same results. I'm sure there is some product out there that will hold up longer, but I don't know what that is.
@@WeekendRVAdventures I may try a ceramic wax...I'll let you know how that works
Does this same process work on the front cap of the 5th wheel or would you use other products?
Amazing difference! - I have a 27 foot 2014 Forest River Ultra Lite TT - It is starting to look a little "chalky" - I've ordered the compound you use and I'll see how it does with a buffer I already have - Thanks for the great videeo - Cheers!
How did it go Gary ?
@@glenngray1201 I found it difficult to apply and remove (buff) but temperature and humidity can vary these results greatly. - Good luck with it!
It did a good job on lightly oxidized area - I ran out of gas (personally) to do too much of the RV.
Do you apply a lot of pressure or essentially just the weight of the buffer doing the work.
What about the lower part of your rv the brown trim. Did it turn white or did you not use the compound o. The brown trim? If you did how did you prevent it from turning white? This is great info. My plastic is the part i am not sure on how to prevent from changing colors. Not the black part.
I didn't try it on the lower brown part, but I think it would have been fine
An important question - How much coverage can we get out a single bottle of the One-Step product?
It's been a while, but I think I used 2 or 3 bottles. I would start with 1 and see how it goes. You won't get it all done in 1 day anyway.
Not sure with a wool pad, but when I do my cars I lightly wet the pad also to prevent gumming.. also I would use a ton less compound and smaller work areas,, that said have not done my travel trailer yet and after an hour Ill probably be like "screw it" and doing 12 x 12 foot areas hahaha.. Thank you for posting.. now I need spring to get here.. ug
Thanks for the ideas.
great video, i too have an oxidized rv, got it shining and the sun took it back to the oxidized state in a month, what has been your experience with it staying nice in the sun after all this great work? thanks
I found that you really need to keep up with waxing a 2x a year or I tested a ceramic coating that seems to be lasting longer. Without any follow-up it will go back.
good to hear the waxing is lasting, makes me really want to try again, i think i should have tried a synthetic wax and/or done a better job to remove the oil from the polish as oxidation was back in under 2 months (az sun). thanks a bunch :)
Great video topic. Questions, How old is your RV, and is this the 1st time you've polished it? Do you use the same process on the front cap, with bugs? Bug removal can be it's own video I think. Thanks for the links.
John, my cougar is a 2015 and this is the first time. You are correct about bugs being its own topic. I actually filmed a video showing what I use for bugs, just haven't edited and posted it yet.
Thanks,
Jason
Thank you for the advice going to buy some for my class c freedom elite
You're welcome. Good luck 🤞
Question- did you change the 100% wool pad between steps?
No but I did clean it out.
WOW!!!!!!! I have a keystone Laredo, sister to your trailer. It's needing this as of this summer. How long has the shine lasted after polishing it?
It lasted about a year and needed polished again.
Thanks brother.
I hope I can find this cleaner in a store tomorrow.
I just washed the RV tonight and would love to finally wax it.
No problem. Good luck I had to order it online.
Jon,
I have an 2018 Outback 330 RL travel trailer. I've used the Mequires RV wax but i don't know what to use on the trim around the slides. It's the 3' wide flat plastic molding around the slides. It seems like it is sold black plastic and it is faded and uneven in color. I'm not sure what it is made of and i don't know how to care for it. Any recommendations? Thanks.
I've had good luck with a product called "back to black" but it's primarily for rubber parts. Faded plastic parts might never come back...
did the samething on my boat then the flagship wax next is the rv same products as the boat gelcoat
Thank you! Very helpful!
Hi I used the mcguires and it definitely helped but left it really streaky and a little darker from the oxidation. I hand buffed it. Is that why?
It could be? Maybe someone else can answer.
My 5th wheel has the same "one-sided" fade issue. The hardware guy at Home Depot suggested an angle grinder with a flap disc abrasive pad to quickly cut through the oxidation. I told him about your method, and he said time is money, don't screw around. I don't want to do more work than I have to- what do you think is the better way?
A flap disc is very abrasive and could easily remove the gel coat completely. I would be afraid to even wet sand with a high grit and water using a flap disc.
So glad i watched this. I just noticed oxidation or fading on my 2018. Didn't seem as noticeable when i bought it in January. But definitely showed up after cleaning my rubber roof. I had already purchased a harbor freight 6" palm polisher to apply ceremic wax to the camper. So i hope to use it on the front cap with the meguiar's one step compund. If i listened correctly, you recommend using a wool applicator?
Good luck, and yes 100% wool worked the best for me.
@@WeekendRVAdventures so i got my meguiar's one step compund and gave it a try using a 6" palm polisher on my front cap. It worked great, but im definitely upgrading to a a bigger polisher like you were using. I think a second pass using that will really bring out the shine. Then I'll apply some meguiar's ceremic wax.
Sounds like a good plan, the smaller buffer I tried just wasn't enough either.
Do I need to wash my camper first before I do this
Yes,you definitely want to start with a clean camper!