I just start watching his videos, he is so clear and easy to follow. I am so sorry to hear of his passing 😢. My condolences to his family. He will truly be missed on this RUclips channel.
As a bodyman and painter you did a great job and demo The only suggestion is to let paint cure for about 10 to 30 days before sealing or waxing this gives sufficient time for all the solvents to evaporate out 100% Keep up the good work
Wow, I love this guy. My husband and I are in the middle of re-doing all the decals on our 2005 HitchHiker 5th wheel. After getting several 'not in our price range' quotes, we found this video and decided to do them ourselves. The instructions were excellent and we haven't run into any issues. Thank you so very much.
Prep is the key to a good paint job as you have proven here. One tip on rattle cans, warm paint sprays smoother (better atomization of the paint). When I rattle can, I will stand the can up in a bucket of warm water, about 3/4 of the way up the can for a minute or 2, dry the can thoroughly, shake well. Makes a world of difference, virtually eliminating the dreaded orange peel.
Absolutely. I didn't mention it in the video but I did set the cans out in the sun for a couple of hours before I sprayed for that exact reason. thx John 😜
Orange peel is going to happen no matter what if you put on several coats of paint especially heavy coats. The key is after you get all your clear coats done and let dry for a few days you go an wet sand the whole car an then take a buffer and hit it with some polishing compound and it will look deep an like glass
Thak you Thank you Thank you - your stuff is GREATE! I'm an electrical engineer for 30+ years and love to airbrush - but a newbe to the RV world your videos are TOP NOTCH!!
I finally got "a round tuit" and tackled the front cracked and faded decals on my WGO 30W which is a shorter version of yours. For newbies looking to do this, it's fairly easy but here are some tips. Old hands at this sort of work will laugh at my suggestions because they "ass-u-me" everyone knows this stuff. First - When taping off the decal, the key is patience! For people like me who think Patience is the chick at the local deli, trust me, take your time. It'll be worth it in the end. Being a lazy sob, I didn't use short pieces of automotive masking tape. I started at one end and SLOWLY taped off the entire graphic (a Nike-ish swoosh) in one swell foop. Second - When masking off the area around the decal with paper sheets, the word is "MORE." If you think 18" is enough, go out to 3 feet. If you think an area is done, tape down all the edges. Paint has an amazing propensity for sneaking into, under and around the tiniest cracks. Cleaning it up afterwards is a PITA. Third - Hand sand the old decal. Don't use a power tool like a knucklehead I know. He wasted time redoing the sanding after the power sander burned the underlying old decal. What a dummy! BTW, start with 120 to 180 grit for the initial sanding. Concentrate on the cracked and crazed areas. Follow up with 220 to 400 grit for smoothing the surface for paint. To remove overspray, I used wet 2000 grit. Fourth - Remember Patience when removing the masking tape. In memory of Martin, thanks for a great DIY video.
Practical knowledge, practical application. Not looking for 100% but when you are as methodical and attention to detail as he is, your outcome boarders on near perfection. Great application my friend. Nice job
@@RVstreet worked with my fiance for 7 yrs in his auto body shop. Your example of taping curves was spot on. The way you handled that "rattle can" makes me think you have used a air spray gun a time or two. Excellent tutorial in my humble opinion
Excellent video and fantastic results using off the shelf consumer products. Just one piece of advice to add - I would use a cleaner/degreaser or denatured alcohol to wipe down the area to be repaired BEFORE you begin sanding. This will remove any waxes, polishes or other potential contaminants that can interfere with the new paint being used.
Great job on the instructional part of the presentation. Great results too the finished product looks amazing. I am a "hobby" painter myself but my grandfather was a paint specialist. He started his training apprenticing in about 1915 doing hand brushed laquer paint on Horse drawn carriges, then transitioned into automotive paint and body work as his career progressed. He always told me that 95% of a great paint job is in the prep. He always wanted to teach me how to paint but all I wanted to do was make things go fast. However I did mange to learn a litle bit and most of that was learning the prep. My paint looks decent because of that prep work. Thank you for doing this!
Well done. Right amount of detail; no key detail was missed yet no filler talk. Also, I like your target goal to be "good but not perfect", which fits my projects too. - Steve, Utah USA
i want to compliment you . I have been looking for ways to fix my graphics , on a budget, and you have nailed it! I have a 1991 sunbus and its not really allowed in some parks due to its age, but after i do this how youve done it i dont see it being a problem anymore.. Thank you so much for this video. WELL DONE bravo!
Thank you for this video....there a couple things I have learned over the years...1st....you can pull the tape just after painting....when the paint is wet it will not peel the edge...2nd always pull your tape at about a 45° angle away from the painted edge. Give these a try practicing on something...I would be interested in hearing how this works for you. I hope this didn't sound like a critique of your work. I really enjoy your videos & have learned a lot from them. I am a newbie & have a lot to learn & you have helped me greatly. Hope to see you on the road when this pandemic is over & I am able to finally get moving.
A previous video you made on checking the wires on the transfer switch box saved me a headache during my first year as a FT RVer. Made a donation to your channel! My Cameo succumbed to a terrible IOTA recalled switch box this winter and her previous owner obviously never waxed the exterior! I’ll be trying this technique come summer when I get a forecast of no wind and sunny days for four consecutive days! Many thanks for your channel 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Exactly process we want to complete on a few of our cracked & faded decals on our 2016 trailer. Thank you so much , I am now confident with following your exact detailed instructions our graphics will look great. All I can say is Wow & thanks so much, amazing perfection on your instructions.
Very nice! Your step by step presentation was better than the guys who do this for a living. One input for newbies, if you want a perfect match on the paint, there are places that will custom match colors to your needs. A little more cost, but a very close match.
Absolutely fantastic! Our previous coach had graphics and I hated them. Full body paint was a requirement for our new coach and I plan on keeping it nice by following your instructions and using the Rejex and the wash. I even got the canon sprayer! Your coach looks awesome! Great job!
I have a MS degree in Instructional Technology. You now have an honorary degree from me! Excellent presentation. I will follow your plan to the letter. Great job.
I did the same thing on a Winnebago with the same tool only to have the painter tell me that it wasn’t necessary, that works just as well to paint right over them and he did and it worked fantastic.
My graphics on my fiver are ok. It's the Paint around them that needs redoing. So your technique will work for me, just in the opposite manner. Thanks for the lesson in patience. Great job.
Nice job I didn’t know those cracks could be repaired I thought I would have to replace all my graphics I’m going to do exactly what you did I know it’s gonna work thanks for the great information happy camping
FABULOUS INSTRUCTIONS!! Thank you for showing step by step details, thank you for showing every product, I've ordered everything off Amazon to do mine now! I just have faded ones.I purchased a polisher along with every products in the Driven line to try to polish out the dull and faded sheen. Then if it needs it I will follow your Awesome instructions and paint my trailer decals. I'm thrilled to have found you! Thank you so much!! Your fantastic
Kathleen, When I read your words "try to polish out the dull and faded sheen" here's a few tips *IF YOU HAVE OXIDATION*. If you don't have any oxidation then skip that step and proceed with polishing. The light weight Meguirs MT300 Dual Action-5.4lbs. It's an awesome machine. Be sure to buy the back plate too. It's sold separately. It's the exact unit I used to remove the oxidation that my coach had when I first bought it in 2016. Having the right polisher is important. My coach at the time had heavy oxidation on the drivers side and back with light to medium oxidation on the other areas. My large slide on the drivers side was the worse so I had to use the wool pad and diamond cut compound on that area. I didn't have a YT Channel at the time, so I don't have a video on it. But I wish I did. I've actually been looking for an RV that has some oxidation so I can do a video on the process in a camp ground. But I haven't had any owners willing to cooperate with me. But I use the MT300 for everything to keep our RV maintained. If you have oxidation, once oxidation is removed, don't ever let it oxidize again. That way you won't have to go thru this process again. If need be like you saw in the video, if an area needs a little polishing, polish it then apply RejeX. My secret to keeping it maintained and shiny is using RejeX for my final coat because RejeX blocks the UV rays from the sun and that's what causes oxidation. Start small first. Like on the back. That will give you an area to get into the rhythm. I used a 12' rolling scaffold so I could stand up straight and do the top half of the coach. The bottom half is much easier to do than the top. Compounding to remove oxidation takes time. As you compound, the pads will load up with material from the RV, so you have to constantly remove it, by keeping them clean, washing them out with water-warm water is best-in a bucket and a small hand held brush. Wring them out, put them back on the MT300 and continue. If you have heavy oxidation, you'll probably have to use the wool pad and the diamond cut compound, otherwise use the other compound material in the blue bottle in my store and my red pads. Once oxidation is off, THEN polish with my Meguiar's Ultimate Polish also with the red pads. It probably will take 2 or 3 passes to restore the shine. Don't do it in the sun. An overcast sky or inside under cover is the best to polish and apply RejeX-or wax if you prefer that instead-as your final coat. Again, keep your pads clean *AND DRY* when applying polish, keep wiping off the polish off the RV each time you make a pass with a microfiber cloth. Do small areas at a time. It's also better and goes faster if you have several pads. Just be patient, be methodical and it'll come out nice. You can do this 👍 Everything I use is in my Amazon Store www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet The stuff you’ll need is in the "Compound, Polish, Finish Coat" category. Above each product is a text bubble where I describe what each product is and what I use it for. Here's a link to one of my PLAYLISTS that covers other aspects of how I take care of the outside of my coach. These will be helpful to you also. Especially the first 3 videos: ruclips.net/p/PLkQXtMp9xodSqUtTPMkSjVRGmSQkz4XJz
I used to do this prep work for a body shop when I was going to college. Didn’t paint, just prepped. I have an RV that gets stored where the sun hits the back and the decals are failing. Wax doesn’t stop it. Now I know I can fix it. And I will find that UV protector. REJECTS IT?. Nice job. Excellent work. Thanks.
I have been looking for this over a year. I am restoring my 85 Toyota Huntsman mini c and am keeping the original graphics, very proud 2nd owner. Thank you so much for such a great instructional video 👍👍👍😎
I can appreciate the tremdous - and I mean TREMENDOUS - amount of work and time you put into taping! With time lapse photography, you made in look easy. But, it was much much easier to remove the decals comepletely by peeling them off with a heat gun and a 3M eraser wheel and install new decals - or dfifferent decals.
Of paint starts pulling the paint edge off, a very light razor blade score will allow for a perfect paint line. It will actually look like a graphic. Excellent job!!!!
Great tutorial. I like that you explain each step instead of assuming the viewer knows what you're talking about. I'm a photographer, auto body work baffles me. Our Vista needs its decals renewed. I may try all three methods to see which I like best.
Awesome video !!!! I have been wanting to do this to my little QB21 Coachman for the past few years and now you have given me the confidence that it can be done and with amazing results ... Thank you very much ...
Hello, I just came across your video regarding painting the graphics. This is an idea I haven't thought of and doesn't look very difficult. You make it look so easy. You were very attentive to the details and that is how you got the result you got. Last week I replaced the factory logos on our travel trailer and then noticed the curved stripes on one side were cracked such as yours. I may be taking on this project. The stripes on one side are in really great shape so I would only have to do one side. I think I can match the color pretty easily, and since you can't see both sides at the same time, it should be okay if the color is off a little bit. I believe you explained everything very well and in terms I could understand, and plus you used materials that are easily found. Thank you for your help and stay safe.
Yep. Folks, remember you can't see both/all sides of the rig at one time, so the colors on one side don't have to exactly match any other side. Approximation works. Save the headache.
fantastic work! we have a 1996 Holiday Rambler we are fixing and decals are next. We have had it for about 18 yrs so it is time to give it some love :) thank you for your video very helpful.
Awesome result. I know how much time it takes to film and edit these types of projects and videos. I really appreciate you taking the time. I’ll probably be using this strategy in the near future on a neglected RV we have purchased. Thanks again.
If anybody wants to just remove an old graphic, I put a link to the 3M Stripe Off Wheel in the description text. That's what I used on the end of an electric drill motor and this wheel works awesome and takes out a ton of the hard labor. It took me 2 wheels to remove the 10'-12' one on our big slide and took me about 5hrs., then I compounded, polished and then applied RejeX. Can't even tell that graphic was ever there. thx Roux
Excellent video and precise explanation of the entire process. I am a new sub... I will check all your videos and WOW, I am very impressed! I am a professional painter of 30 plus years in the trades journeyman painter. You are a pro!
Very nice well done job! Just bought Class A with bad graphics! Now I know how to make them look good again! When pulling the tape off, pull it outward at 45 degrees. My father taught me that. Respectfully, Kevin
Thank you for this! We have some cracked graphics on ours. Being as I worked in an auto-body shop doing detail work on vans in my younger years, this was right up my alley, so thank you so much! It's easy & simple to do. See you on the road, from Tennessee.
Hey Martin, Martin Jr here! Another awesome video...I have been maintaining my RV as I go through your informative video library, saving me big buck$ most of these things are simpler than I thought. Also helps give me things to pass the time instead of just hanging out eating 🙂 if you ever pass the Denver I’d like to buy you lunch! Keep on rolling...
Fantastic Perry. We're are actually thinking....just thinking about hitting NM, AZ, UT and maybe CO next spring/summer. We'll see. So ya, lunch sounds good. How about a CO elk burger? Do they have those there? What would you suggest that's indigenous to your area? Something exotic now....not Denny's. 😜
I did exactly as he said in this video and my RV decals look amazing! It was such a refresh for my girl and especially with RV parks giving you a hard time about the age of your rig. 9:10
Thank you Sherry. Take your time, pay attention to details and you'll be fine. Start on one of your smaller graphics first to learn then the bigger ones will be easier. You definitely can do this.
I am facing the same problem with my graphics...the price is insane to replace them...you did an excellent job doing and explaining how to get it done....NOW i need to get the nerve to do it...thanks
Wes, you can do this. This is not that difficult and your RV will look a ton better when complete. Come back to me when you've done it and give us an update.
good video for an how to paint. I love the removing the tape part! the best part was explaining how to use coats. using the feather coat method to get a smooth surface. I always do 3 coats to prevent runs with pro sprayer or rattle cans. correct use of tape and paper as well!!!! I've never tried spraying over the plastic decals, but no reason why it wouldn't work? love to see a pix of it after 5 years or so to see if it cracks again.
You did a great job. We had several "cabbage" spots that developed shortly after we got our RV. Lucky ours was a Sherwin Williams paint and I went to the Sherwin Williams automotive where they matched my colors. I went ahead and got 6 cans of each color just to have. Anyway they came with regular spray buttons, when you mentioned that about your burgundy I thought I'd let you know there are spray triggers you can buy. They slip over the existing nozzle making your spray easier. Also I found nozzle buttons that would rotate from narrow to fan. Over all great video. Great tip about 1/4 inch tape. Thanks.
FYI: That damp cloth activates the stuff in the green tape that gives you a clean painted edge. I don't know if you did that intentionally but folks should do that intentionally as it gives a crisper edge to the paint when you use the green tape.
You must have been a painter in a past life. As a camper, and retired automotive custom painter, I have done this same thing to my former class A four winds. I also had a set of graphics printed, but after removing, buffing and re applying new graphics, I painted the rest. One suggestion, the Rustolium clear , while it makes it shine, does not offer any U.V. Protection. I like to use an automotive 2-k clear . Then use the restore for over all protection, should easily get 5-10 years before needing any touch ups. Love your videos, keep-em coming.
Yeah, a different kind of clear could of have used but, I put RejeX now on the whole coach twice a year and about 4x's a year on the graphics. Two coats of RejeX blocks 100% of UV rays. Stuff is amazing. I don't use wax anymore. thx for your comment Tom
First, b4 sanding, wipe it all down with a wax remover or mineral spirits to make sure no contaminants or silicone is present. Otherwise you'll sand it into your surface & have problems later. Also, spray paint on big box stores have lot codes on them. Make sure you buy spray cans with the same lot codes or the color might vary..
and peel the tape when wet to avoid all the hassle of paint tearing. get it all done in less than a day and the paint shouldnt tear... de-taping within minutes of the final coat will help. having a helper for big jobs is key to keeping the tape an paper out of the wet paint...also doing the thin tape last (if you get good enough at it) his dust coat techniques is correct especially on graphics as they are sensitive to the thinners.
Even better, buy all your supplies at the local auto parts store. It is usually a higher quality of paint and clear. They also sell high build primer which will aid in the filling of the cracks.
Bahaha I think I’m on the wrong channel omg now q tips? Your all crazy really and he Admit it’s not perfect why do all that work I just don’t fricking get it Just take it in for a detail and have it restriped with you spending a week with X-Acto knives and Q-tips and all these pains and send papers I mean it doesn’t make sense and financially and the value of my time no sir not for me I’m out of here and the bad ass oh my God this is weird
Not sure if this was asked, I didn’t want to read all 500 previous questions. What did you do at the edges with silicone sealant? Did you paint over the sealant or tape off at the sealant edges? Your DIY job Looks great and you’ve explained it perfectly. I plan on doing this to my entire fifth wheel as all the graphics are horrible. This way I can customize the paint scheme to my preference. A new graphic package for the coach is $1500-$1600 plus the time to remove, prep and re-install. This way gives me greater flexibility. Love your videos!
Well there were only two small areas-about 3" each" where the graphic jumped across to the other side where the sealant is. I did not paint that sealant area. I actually did show that area in the video. And just to be clear, I NEVER use Silicone Sealant on anything. Good luck on your 5ver. Take your time and prep well and you'll be fine. 👍
Thanks for the video, I was thinking about doing this to mine. I was not able to find the vinyl graphics for mine, so I gave it a shot. Turning out good so far.
This was a very informative video. Glad I stumbled upon it. I live in New England and keep my RV covered from Oct to April. Still has cracks, but now I know how to fix them myself. Thanks for the tutorial.
Great video! We gave painting a go and got one of the 20 decals done. I think we will order a decal set ($1800) . The paint method was about four hours and results were good but not great. Our 2007 Coachman we bought last year sat in the sun most of its life and it shows but me have not yet hit 10k on the odometer. We hope to bring the exterior back in line with her low milage
Thank you for the detailed and easy-to-follow instructions. Wow. I wish others would take the time to do a good instructional video like this. Nice Job!
MaryMac So glad I saw your video!! Our class C's decals look so bad, I've threaten to go get sharpies and color in the cracks!! When my husband heard this he flipped out!! I can now show him your video and we can repair them - those are the only things that make our unit show any age!! Thanks again!! 😉
Very Helpful, thank you for posting. Only thing I would add is that for people to read the paint can instructions. Many paints have redcoat “windows”. So they have to be sprayed with another coat within 1 hour or wait 72 hours. If this is not followed it can mess up an otherwise nice job.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I still cant believe he is gone. I truly hope his videos will live on he is still helping so many of us RVers
I still can't believe he is gone either 💔😥
Did Martin pass? How did I miss this news? 😢
@@RVstreetjust came across this how very sad he's died and 😪 rip
😢 omg so sad. Im new to rv and just found his channel rip buddy. Ty for still helping us ❤
I just start watching his videos, he is so clear and easy to follow. I am so sorry to hear of his passing 😢. My condolences to his family. He will truly be missed on this RUclips channel.
I miss him everyday. Thank you for reaching out to me.
Our angel, Martin, continues to instruct and guide us.
As a bodyman and painter you did a great job and demo
The only suggestion is to let paint cure for about 10 to 30 days before sealing or waxing this gives sufficient time for all the solvents to evaporate out 100%
Keep up the good work
Well Stephen I totally agree. BUT.....there's always a but right...?
We only had a 7 day stay at that park and I had to "get er done".
@@RVstreet Totally understand
You are a wonderful educator. Very clear instructions, comprehensive directions, and outstanding demonstration! Thank you!!
Wow, I love this guy. My husband and I are in the middle of re-doing all the decals on our 2005 HitchHiker 5th wheel. After getting several 'not in our price range' quotes, we found this video and decided to do them ourselves. The instructions were excellent and we haven't run into any issues. Thank you so very much.
How much did it cost you?
Prep is the key to a good paint job as you have proven here. One tip on rattle cans, warm paint sprays smoother (better atomization of the paint). When I rattle can, I will stand the can up in a bucket of warm water, about 3/4 of the way up the can for a minute or 2, dry the can thoroughly, shake well. Makes a world of difference, virtually eliminating the dreaded orange peel.
Absolutely. I didn't mention it in the video but I did set the cans out in the sun for a couple of hours before I sprayed for that exact reason. thx John 😜
Orange peel is going to happen no matter what if you put on several coats of paint especially heavy coats. The key is after you get all your clear coats done and let dry for a few days you go an wet sand the whole car an then take a buffer and hit it with some polishing compound and it will look deep an like glass
Thak you Thank you Thank you - your stuff is GREATE! I'm an electrical engineer for 30+ years and love to airbrush - but a newbe to the RV world your videos are TOP NOTCH!!
I finally got "a round tuit" and tackled the front cracked and faded decals on my WGO 30W which is a shorter version of yours. For newbies looking to do this, it's fairly easy but here are some tips. Old hands at this sort of work will laugh at my suggestions because they "ass-u-me" everyone knows this stuff.
First - When taping off the decal, the key is patience! For people like me who think Patience is the chick at the local deli, trust me, take your time. It'll be worth it in the end. Being a lazy sob, I didn't use short pieces of automotive masking tape. I started at one end and SLOWLY taped off the entire graphic (a Nike-ish swoosh) in one swell foop.
Second - When masking off the area around the decal with paper sheets, the word is "MORE." If you think 18" is enough, go out to 3 feet. If you think an area is done, tape down all the edges. Paint has an amazing propensity for sneaking into, under and around the tiniest cracks. Cleaning it up afterwards is a PITA.
Third - Hand sand the old decal. Don't use a power tool like a knucklehead I know. He wasted time redoing the sanding after the power sander burned the underlying old decal. What a dummy! BTW, start with 120 to 180 grit for the initial sanding. Concentrate on the cracked and crazed areas. Follow up with 220 to 400 grit for smoothing the surface for paint. To remove overspray, I used wet 2000 grit.
Fourth - Remember Patience when removing the masking tape.
In memory of Martin, thanks for a great DIY video.
Wish I'd seen this 2 years ago. Excellent instructions. Sorry to hear of his passing. Great that his knowledge and spirit lives on.
Thank you♥️
Practical knowledge, practical application. Not looking for 100% but when you are as methodical and attention to detail as he is, your outcome boarders on near perfection. Great application my friend. Nice job
Thank you so much. 💕
Great RUclipsr! I watch a lot of videos on RUclips and this guy is a perfect example of a do it yourself educator! Great job man and thank you!
Thank you so much David. Got some more coming up very soon.
@@RVstreet worked with my fiance for 7 yrs in his auto body shop. Your example of taping curves was spot on. The way you handled that "rattle can" makes me think you have used a air spray gun a time or two. Excellent tutorial in my humble opinion
I agree! I started subscribing to him after watching the first time. He explained things so well!
Excellent video and fantastic results using off the shelf consumer products. Just one piece of advice to add - I would use a cleaner/degreaser or denatured alcohol to wipe down the area to be repaired BEFORE you begin sanding. This will remove any waxes, polishes or other potential contaminants that can interfere with the new paint being used.
Great job on the instructional part of the presentation. Great results too the finished product looks amazing. I am a "hobby" painter myself but my grandfather was a paint specialist. He started his training apprenticing in about 1915 doing hand brushed laquer paint on Horse drawn carriges, then transitioned into automotive paint and body work as his career progressed. He always told me that 95% of a great paint job is in the prep. He always wanted to teach me how to paint but all I wanted to do was make things go fast. However I did mange to learn a litle bit and most of that was learning the prep. My paint looks decent because of that prep work. Thank you for doing this!
He brings me back to gettin stuff done, he makes me feel like i should get up and knock it out. i love it
This was great! New owner of a worn out 2006 Cougar with no idea of what to do on the outside. I can do this!!
Right amount of detail and no filler talk, perfect!
Well done. Right amount of detail; no key detail was missed yet no filler talk. Also, I like your target goal to be "good but not perfect", which fits my projects too. - Steve, Utah USA
"Far from good, but good from a far" 😊😉🤫
Where is Steve, Utah. Is that in the south east?
i want to compliment you . I have been looking for ways to fix my graphics , on a budget, and you have nailed it! I have a 1991 sunbus and its not really allowed in some parks due to its age, but after i do this how youve done it i dont see it being a problem anymore.. Thank you so much for this video. WELL DONE bravo!
thx Jersey 👍
Thank you for this video....there a couple things I have learned over the years...1st....you can pull the tape just after painting....when the paint is wet it will not peel the edge...2nd always pull your tape at about a 45° angle away from the painted edge. Give these a try practicing on something...I would be interested in hearing how this works for you.
I hope this didn't sound like a critique of your work. I really enjoy your videos & have learned a lot from them. I am a newbie & have a lot to learn & you have helped me greatly.
Hope to see you on the road when this pandemic is over & I am able to finally get moving.
Great work ! You provided clear detailed instructions on how to do it, and I’m sure that saved tons of money by not taking it to a dealership.
A dealer wouldn't even touch this kind of job.
thx John
Cheers from Down Under .... You did such a professional Job and gave me confidence to tackle this now ... Thank you so much
A previous video you made on checking the wires on the transfer switch box saved me a headache during my first year as a FT RVer. Made a donation to your channel! My Cameo succumbed to a terrible IOTA recalled switch box this winter and her previous owner obviously never waxed the exterior! I’ll be trying this technique come summer when I get a forecast of no wind and sunny days for four consecutive days! Many thanks for your channel 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thank you Verna 😎
Thank you Martin for sharing your video! Now I know I can do my graphics without spending thousands to have it done. 👍
Exactly process we want to complete on a few of our cracked & faded decals on our 2016 trailer. Thank you so much , I am now confident with following your exact detailed instructions our graphics will look great. All I can say is Wow & thanks so much, amazing perfection on your instructions.
Great job for rattle cans. Looks like factory new. You are right in saying prep is everything.
Great alternative idea to solving a issue all RV owners with vinyl will have.
Very nice! Your step by step presentation was better than the guys who do this for a living. One input for newbies, if you want a perfect match on the paint, there are places that will custom match colors to your needs. A little more cost, but a very close match.
Absolutely fantastic! Our previous coach had graphics and I hated them. Full body paint was a requirement for our new coach and I plan on keeping it nice by following your instructions and using the Rejex and the wash. I even got the canon sprayer! Your coach looks awesome! Great job!
I have a MS degree in Instructional Technology. You now have an honorary degree from me! Excellent presentation. I will follow your plan to the letter. Great job.
OMG...does that mean I also just graduated from college? Tony I luv you.
This is great. You're an RV rockstar. I haven't done this yet with mine, but it is exactly what I planned to do.
Fantastic! I actually believe I could do this now. Thanks so much for the effort it took to film and demonstrate!
You're very welcome!
You just save my life, I didn’t know what to do with my graphic. Your explanation are clear if I failed it will be my fault. Thanks
I did the same thing on a Winnebago with the same tool only to have the painter tell me that it wasn’t necessary, that works just as well to paint right over them and he did and it worked fantastic.
My graphics on my fiver are ok. It's the Paint around them that needs redoing. So your technique will work for me, just in the opposite manner. Thanks for the lesson in patience. Great job.
Thanks for sharing, you are excellent instructor and very patient on taking your patience time and not rushing through the process.
We loved your how to video with the RV paint. You were very very thorough
It looks so good when it's finished, you did a great job and are a very patient person. Also I thought you explained the whole process so well :)
Nice job I didn’t know those cracks could be repaired I thought I would have to replace all my graphics I’m going to do exactly what you did I know it’s gonna work thanks for the great information happy camping
FABULOUS INSTRUCTIONS!! Thank you for showing step by step details, thank you for showing every product, I've ordered everything off Amazon to do mine now!
I just have faded ones.I purchased a polisher along with every products in the Driven line to try to polish out the dull and faded sheen. Then if it needs it I will follow your Awesome instructions and paint my trailer decals. I'm thrilled to have found you! Thank you so much!! Your fantastic
Kathleen,
When I read your words "try to polish out the dull and faded sheen" here's a few tips *IF YOU HAVE OXIDATION*. If you don't have any oxidation then skip that step and proceed with polishing.
The light weight Meguirs MT300 Dual Action-5.4lbs. It's an awesome machine. Be sure to buy the back plate too. It's sold separately. It's the exact unit I used to remove the oxidation that my coach had when I first bought it in 2016. Having the right polisher is important. My coach at the time had heavy oxidation on the drivers side and back with light to medium oxidation on the other areas. My large slide on the drivers side was the worse so I had to use the wool pad and diamond cut compound on that area. I didn't have a YT Channel at the time, so I don't have a video on it. But I wish I did. I've actually been looking for an RV that has some oxidation so I can do a video on the process in a camp ground. But I haven't had any owners willing to cooperate with me. But I use the MT300 for everything to keep our RV maintained. If you have oxidation, once oxidation is removed, don't ever let it oxidize again. That way you won't have to go thru this process again.
If need be like you saw in the video, if an area needs a little polishing, polish it then apply RejeX. My secret to keeping it maintained and shiny is using RejeX for my final coat because RejeX blocks the UV rays from the sun and that's what causes oxidation.
Start small first. Like on the back. That will give you an area to get into the rhythm. I used a 12' rolling scaffold so I could stand up straight and do the top half of the coach. The bottom half is much easier to do than the top. Compounding to remove oxidation takes time. As you compound, the pads will load up with material from the RV, so you have to constantly remove it, by keeping them clean, washing them out with water-warm water is best-in a bucket and a small hand held brush. Wring them out, put them back on the MT300 and continue. If you have heavy oxidation, you'll probably have to use the wool pad and the diamond cut compound, otherwise use the other compound material in the blue bottle in my store and my red pads. Once oxidation is off, THEN polish with my Meguiar's Ultimate Polish also with the red pads. It probably will take 2 or 3 passes to restore the shine. Don't do it in the sun. An overcast sky or inside under cover is the best to polish and apply RejeX-or wax if you prefer that instead-as your final coat. Again, keep your pads clean *AND DRY* when applying polish, keep wiping off the polish off the RV each time you make a pass with a microfiber cloth. Do small areas at a time. It's also better and goes faster if you have several pads. Just be patient, be methodical and it'll come out nice. You can do this 👍
Everything I use is in my Amazon Store www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
The stuff you’ll need is in the "Compound, Polish, Finish Coat" category. Above each product is a text bubble where I describe what each product is and what I use it for.
Here's a link to one of my PLAYLISTS that covers other aspects of how I take care of the outside of my coach. These will be helpful to you also. Especially the first 3 videos:
ruclips.net/p/PLkQXtMp9xodSqUtTPMkSjVRGmSQkz4XJz
I used to do this prep work for a body shop when I was going to college. Didn’t paint, just prepped. I have an RV that gets stored where the sun hits the back and the decals are failing. Wax doesn’t stop it. Now I know I can fix it. And I will find that UV protector. REJECTS IT?. Nice job. Excellent work. Thanks.
Yep, RejeX it. The link is in the description text.
Now go....go and protect what what you have.
I have been looking for this over a year. I am restoring my 85 Toyota Huntsman mini c and am keeping the original graphics, very proud 2nd owner. Thank you so much for such a great instructional video 👍👍👍😎
I have been dreading this procedure, far to long now. I need a drink !
I can appreciate the tremdous - and I mean TREMENDOUS - amount of work and time you put into taping! With time lapse photography, you made in look easy. But, it was much much easier to remove the decals comepletely by peeling them off with a heat gun and a 3M eraser wheel and install new decals - or dfifferent decals.
Martins next video was going to be how to erase a graphic but he passed away before he had a chance to do it. 💔
Sean - I’m fairly new to being an RV owner with an older unit. Of course my graphics are cracked. How does one buy new graphics?
Just what I need to do to my decals on my couch. Great informative video thanks.
Of paint starts pulling the paint edge off, a very light razor blade score will allow for a perfect paint line. It will actually look like a graphic. Excellent job!!!!
Great tutorial. I like that you explain each step instead of assuming the viewer knows what you're talking about. I'm a photographer, auto body work baffles me. Our Vista needs its decals renewed. I may try all three methods to see which I like best.
You can do this. Just take your time and it's all about the prep work.
Not made comments before, but you are a natural. Loved it
Awesome video !!!! I have been wanting to do this to my little QB21 Coachman for the past few years and now you have given me the confidence that it can be done and with amazing results ... Thank you very much ...
Thanks a lot. That was very interesting. If this is not your job you work like a pro.!
Nice job very acceptable finish and content delivery spot on. You make your audience feel like we’re in a paint class and we’re the only student 🏅👍
thx Ben
Hello, I just came across your video regarding painting the graphics. This is an idea I haven't thought of and doesn't look very difficult. You make it look so easy. You were very attentive to the details and that is how you got the result you got. Last week I replaced the factory logos on our travel trailer and then noticed the curved stripes on one side were cracked such as yours. I may be taking on this project. The stripes on one side are in really great shape so I would only have to do one side. I think I can match the color pretty easily, and since you can't see both sides at the same time, it should be okay if the color is off a little bit. I believe you explained everything very well and in terms I could understand, and plus you used materials that are easily found. Thank you for your help and stay safe.
Yep. Folks, remember you can't see both/all sides of the rig at one time, so the colors on one side don't have to exactly match any other side. Approximation works. Save the headache.
I had a heck of a time on mine. Orange peel from hell. Needed to use deglosser first then steps youve shown. Great job man
Thank you
You did an excellent job on that! I am impressed! I'm getting ideas.....
fantastic work! we have a 1996 Holiday Rambler we are fixing and decals are next. We have had it for about 18 yrs so it is time to give it some love :) thank you for your video very helpful.
Awesome result. I know how much time it takes to film and edit these types of projects and videos. I really appreciate you taking the time. I’ll probably be using this strategy in the near future on a neglected RV we have purchased. Thanks again.
It's time to paint my Alumascape. I will mask the decals while painting the body, then use this technique for the decals. Can't wait!
I think this was the first video I saw here. It is great, like all of them are.
thank you 👍
Looks great. I went with option one on my Lance camper. LOL. Was a nightmare removing the decals but so happy now it's done.
If anybody wants to just remove an old graphic, I put a link to the 3M Stripe Off Wheel in the description text. That's what I used on the end of an electric drill motor and this wheel works awesome and takes out a ton of the hard labor. It took me 2 wheels to remove the 10'-12' one on our big slide and took me about 5hrs., then I compounded, polished and then applied RejeX. Can't even tell that graphic was ever there.
thx Roux
Excellent video and precise explanation of the entire process.
I am a new sub... I will check all your videos and WOW, I am very impressed! I am a professional painter of 30 plus years in the trades journeyman painter.
You are a pro!
Thank you so much for those kind words. 👍
I have done this on 3 rvs but I used sandable primer before painting. This eliminates almost all of the hairline cracks. Thanks for posting.
Hey Yancer... so you'd use the sandable primer instead of the paint&primer he used in the first step?
Very nice well done job! Just bought Class A with bad graphics! Now I know how to make them look good again!
When pulling the tape off, pull it outward at 45 degrees. My father taught me that. Respectfully, Kevin
Good tip! thx
Thank you for this! We have some cracked graphics on ours. Being as I worked in an auto-body shop doing detail work on vans in my younger years, this was right up my alley, so thank you so much! It's easy & simple to do. See you on the road, from Tennessee.
Thx Pat.
Hey Martin, Martin Jr here! Another awesome video...I have been maintaining my RV as I go through your informative video library, saving me big buck$ most of these things are simpler than I thought. Also helps give me things to pass the time instead of just hanging out eating 🙂 if you ever pass the Denver I’d like to buy you lunch! Keep on rolling...
Fantastic Perry. We're are actually thinking....just thinking about hitting NM, AZ, UT and maybe CO next spring/summer. We'll see. So ya, lunch sounds good. How about a CO elk burger? Do they have those there? What would you suggest that's indigenous to your area? Something exotic now....not Denny's. 😜
I did exactly as he said in this video and my RV decals look amazing! It was such a refresh for my girl and especially with RV parks giving you a hard time about the age of your rig. 9:10
That is awesome!👍
Thank you for documenting this! I know your tutorial is going to help me successfully paint my van.
You sir, are a patient man!! Nice work.
I'll be sure to pass this along to my wife.
Awesome details! I bought a used RV last year and the graphics need some work. I feel like I can do this myself. You're great!
Thank you Sherry. Take your time, pay attention to details and you'll be fine. Start on one of your smaller graphics first to learn then the bigger ones will be easier. You definitely can do this.
@@RVstreet thank you for the boost of confidence! I'll let you know how it goes lol
@@sherrypaxton7394 Pls do.
Came out awesome! Thank you now I feel confident to do my motor home!
Good job with explaining and the detail RV street!
Millwright mentality: “If someone else can fix it, so can I!”
Looks great!
Yep.
wow talking about a very informative video Buddy you nailed it. Thanks so much for sharing your secrets with us.
great job, affordable and effective. One thing I would have done to add to the life of the paint is clear coat it.
I am facing the same problem with my graphics...the price is insane to replace them...you did an excellent job doing and explaining how to get it done....NOW i need to get the nerve to do it...thanks
Wes, you can do this. This is not that difficult and your RV will look a ton better when complete. Come back to me when you've done it and give us an update.
good video for an how to paint. I love the removing the tape part! the best part was explaining how to use coats. using the feather coat method to get a smooth surface. I always do 3 coats to prevent runs with pro sprayer or rattle cans. correct use of tape and paper as well!!!! I've never tried spraying over the plastic decals, but no reason why it wouldn't work? love to see a pix of it after 5 years or so to see if it cracks again.
You did a great job. We had several "cabbage" spots that developed shortly after we got our RV. Lucky ours was a Sherwin Williams paint and I went to the Sherwin Williams automotive where they matched my colors. I went ahead and got 6 cans of each color just to have. Anyway they came with regular spray buttons, when you mentioned that about your burgundy I thought I'd let you know there are spray triggers you can buy. They slip over the existing nozzle making your spray easier. Also I found nozzle buttons that would rotate from narrow to fan. Over all great video. Great tip about 1/4 inch tape. Thanks.
Good for Laura for tackling a job like this. You go girl. 😜
FYI: That damp cloth activates the stuff in the green tape that gives you a clean painted edge. I don't know if you did that intentionally but folks should do that intentionally as it gives a crisper edge to the paint when you use the green tape.
You are thinking about frog tape. The stuff he used is not activated by anything.
Future project for our 2005 c-class. Agreed. Excellent instructions. Following!!!
You must have been a painter in a past life. As a camper, and retired automotive custom painter, I have done this same thing to my former class A four winds. I also had a set of graphics printed, but after removing, buffing and re applying new graphics, I painted the rest. One suggestion, the Rustolium clear , while it makes it shine, does not offer any U.V. Protection. I like to use an automotive 2-k clear . Then use the restore for over all protection, should easily get 5-10 years before needing any touch ups. Love your videos, keep-em coming.
Yeah, a different kind of clear could of have used but, I put RejeX now on the whole coach twice a year and about 4x's a year on the graphics. Two coats of RejeX blocks 100% of UV rays. Stuff is amazing. I don't use wax anymore.
thx for your comment Tom
Your attention to detail is awesome!
Thanks, this is so helpful for me, as I am looking for an RV in Phoenix, where the sun is merciless and many RV's for sale have faded graphics.
Excellent self repair, looks good
First, b4 sanding, wipe it all down with a wax remover or mineral spirits to make sure no contaminants or silicone is present. Otherwise you'll sand it into your surface & have problems later.
Also, spray paint on big box stores have lot codes on them. Make sure you buy spray cans with the same lot codes or the color might vary..
Thank You
and peel the tape when wet to avoid all the hassle of paint tearing.
get it all done in less than a day and the paint shouldnt tear...
de-taping within minutes of the final coat will help.
having a helper for big jobs is key to keeping the tape an paper out of the wet paint...also doing the thin tape last (if you get good enough at it)
his dust coat techniques is correct especially on graphics as they are sensitive to the thinners.
Even better, buy all your supplies at the local auto parts store. It is usually a higher quality of paint and clear. They also sell high build primer which will aid in the filling of the cracks.
Great video! You are a natural instructor. Everything was explained so well.
WOW thank you so much Charles. That means a lot.
Well done mate! Looks super nice. The tattoo is badass too.
Bahaha I think I’m on the wrong channel omg now q tips? Your all crazy really and he Admit it’s not perfect why do all that work I just don’t fricking get it Just take it in for a detail and have it restriped with you spending a week with X-Acto knives and Q-tips and all these pains and send papers I mean it doesn’t make sense and financially and the value of my time no sir not for me I’m out of here and the bad ass oh my God this is weird
Dude you just gained a subscriber, nice video very well experienced besides missing the gloss part, 😄 thanks
Not sure if this was asked, I didn’t want to read all 500 previous questions. What did you do at the edges with silicone sealant? Did you paint over the sealant or tape off at the sealant edges? Your DIY job Looks great and you’ve explained it perfectly. I plan on doing this to my entire fifth wheel as all the graphics are horrible. This way I can customize the paint scheme to my preference. A new graphic package for the coach is $1500-$1600 plus the time to remove, prep and re-install. This way gives me greater flexibility. Love your videos!
Well there were only two small areas-about 3" each" where the graphic jumped across to the other side where the sealant is. I did not paint that sealant area. I actually did show that area in the video. And just to be clear, I NEVER use Silicone Sealant on anything. Good luck on your 5ver. Take your time and prep well and you'll be fine. 👍
Great idea and information on how to manage graphic issues on travel trailer. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video, I was thinking about doing this to mine. I was not able to find the vinyl graphics for mine, so I gave it a shot. Turning out good so far.
Much needed video but I wished I’d seen this a week ago as I was painting my little red wagon, getting off the rust. Love your instructions!
In sorry te hear his passing, he's helped me with many projects, RIP..😢
Thank you
This was a very informative video. Glad I stumbled upon it. I live in New England and keep my RV covered from Oct to April. Still has cracks, but now I know how to fix them myself. Thanks for the tutorial.
Great video! We gave painting a go and got one of the 20 decals done. I think we will order a decal set ($1800) . The paint method was about four hours and results were good but not great. Our 2007 Coachman we bought last year sat in the sun most of its life and it shows but me have not yet hit 10k on the odometer. We hope to bring the exterior back in line with her low milage
Thank you for the detailed and easy-to-follow instructions. Wow. I wish others would take the time to do a good instructional video like this. Nice Job!
MaryMac
So glad I saw your video!! Our class C's decals look so bad, I've threaten to go get sharpies and color in the cracks!! When my husband heard this he flipped out!! I can now show him your video and we can repair them - those are the only things that make our unit show any age!! Thanks again!! 😉
You're very welcome Mary. That's what this channel is all about. TRAVEL • LEARN • SHARE
Excellent job, easy to follow and great example of an inexpensive DIY fix. Be well and travel on! Thanks again sir!
Thank you Craig. 😜
Very Helpful, thank you for posting. Only thing I would add is that for people to read the paint can instructions. Many paints have redcoat “windows”. So they have to be sprayed with another coat within 1 hour or wait 72 hours. If this is not followed it can mess up an otherwise nice job.
Thank you so much for the detailed demonstration! I thought there would be a much more involved operation! I will get right to it!
I hope that your graphics are holding up well. Really nice touch using common available pain. Well done my friend
Yep, they're holding up just nicely. Protecting them is the key.
Thank you for sharing this information. It is quite helpful, and I will try this method to correct my decals.