As a detailer that operates and deals with heavy oxidation in south Florida, I can second this motion of sticking to using heavy cut compounds. It saves everyone involved time and money from wet-sanding. I couldn’t here more encouraging words when you said that if you just use heavy cut correctly you won’t really need wet sanding. Respect your grind brother, love from soflo 🤙
The luv gets returned, thanks. Stay hydrated brother. I might have heat but there's no humidity here, you guys deserve medals for doing this down there!
I'm glad I happened to find this video. I recently bought a used boat which has a broad band of red on the hull, and I was pretty much expecting to have to go down the vinyl wrap route, as the red is so faded. It's nowhere near as bad as the red was in your video though, so now I am inspired to get compounding and polishing, and I am confident of achieving good results. Thank you.
I helped a friend detail her boat this past Spring. It took a week of both of us working all day long on the damn thing. I wish I had seen this video first. Everyone I talked to said you have to wet sand over and over going up in grit. then light compound/ polish then wax. Everyone said that. Im gonna call some of them tomorrow and give them grief. PS, that boat sure did look good when we finally finished it. I dare say probably better than new.
A good finish as usual. I brush on my compound so I don't fuss with machine speed, but you do a great job varying speed on the spread out and avoid the crazy sling I see in so many yards. I've been brushing on compound since my body shop days as super duty came in a gallon paint can and just like the way it defines my working area. It also helps give even cut across a surface that likes to drink the moisture out of product. When I encounter a boat like this, I start with a 3M 7445 or 7448 scotch pad with good detergent soap to skim the top layer of dead gelcoat off and let it wash away. That much dead oxidization with embedded mold just frustratingly plugs up the pad and takes way too much time to grind away at. A human can only move their arms so many times in one day. If that was a 48' yacht, you'd be at that for 5 days straight on super duty.
Sounds like you've "been there" If a Super-Duty job came in that was the whole 50-100', I'd make all my profit for the year on that boat and mostly would just pass to be honest. I'm just trying to get people to be aware that this is possible without sanding, that's all I'm doing, ever. I appreciate the knowledge and comments! Thanks. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I generally buy boats to clean them up enjoy them for a bit and eventually flip them. My current project is a 2000 Silverton 45 that hasn’t seen a buffer or coat of wax since 2017. I’m giving it a full gelcoat restoration this spring. A Local company wanted $6500 to compound and wax. It’s more than a $6500 job in labor and material if done right so behind the (wool) wheel I go. Some earbuds and good tunes can be somewhat relaxing.
$3,800 and my guys and I would have done that boat in 2 days and used Flagship by Meguiar's the 1st good waxing. Next year, compound out the boat again and use Fire Glaze +. You would then just keep the boat clean throughout the season and reapply the fire glaze + once a year. Flipping can be fun. I've sold some smaller boats, trailerable but only a few big girls. I was a broker a while back and sold some decent sized boats. I wasn't fixing them as just collecting commissions for doing nothing. Gross. @ $100 a ft, I expect to give you perfection. Your detailer in-question didn't want the job or knew how to tackle it. There's plenty of low hanging fruit out there for a hungry buffer. I'm glad you're motivated. Small sections connect to make a large one. Large ones become parts, parts become tops or hulls or sides, back or front. Top down, front to back so you aren't walking over what you spent all day getting perfect. Good luck! Enjoy the tunes and have a cold beverage now and then. Lee
Got a 40yr old Wellcraft that in its prime was taxi cab yellow. Now it's sortof inside of a banana then driven through liquid chalk look I tried a couple of compounds and in some places was OK but not consistent. Gave up and went to wet sanding. Have 1/2 of it done, looks good but damn what a pain. Gonna try this stuff. Also trying to see if you're buffing differently than I do. Done a few cars but none of them covered in gel coat. Thanks more than I can say.
Forget what cars taught you. This is not anything like paint. Grinding concrete till shiny, that's what this is. Good luck. Hope my stuff does better and looks right for you. I have over 100 vids on RUclips, take some time to watch a few, please. There's a theme and a repeatable technique. Get the right wheels and products and I think you'll see a glossy yellow boat soon enough.
Hi Lee, just watching a couple of your videos on gelcoat, im based over in the UK so its constantly raining/cold/wet or windy lol. Im restoring a sunken Colvic Traveller 28, solid boats. I dont think its had any gelcoat work done to it in at least 7 or so years its looking sorry very smokers yellow, its meant to be white. Id like to get it back a tad im not concerned of it going back to being bad as il try and maintain it but its on a canal so its always on the water and its expensive for a lift out. Do you recommend any products to attack such old gelcoat? Yes its orginal 1986 gelcoat when the boat was made. Cheers Mr J.
Hi Chris, Welcome. There's 300+ videos that I've posted on just what you're asking. I use any of the things in my description. I'd start with Super-Duty (if you can get it) then Heavy Cut and finally Perfect-it ex ac. Working on the water can be a pain. Counterweight the boat to pull one side of the hull out of the water somewhat. Repeating on the other side of course. It's a boat mate, expensive is the norm typically. Without being there, I can't tell you what to use but I've shown through a ton of vids, how to attack various gelcoat levels of oxidation. A wool pad is the key but a 3M pad is the best for this work. Buy 3-4 and use only the best spinning one or two. Return the rest. Nothing is hidden in the videos. Grab a pint, some snacks and soak it up. Cheers, Lee
i bought my second hand boat from a company out of season and left it there until a few weeks ago i started getting it ready for the season, i am actually too embarrased to do anything with the gelcoat because when i turned up with some polish,wax, etc he just laughed,said it was just rubbish and i should do it properly with sanding and he offered there company to do it for the equivalent of 3000 dollars so i said i just want it tried,tested and in the water so i can bring it home and at the end of the season do it this way and hopefully prove him wrong, i just have to find the correct compound here in Norway :) thankyou for the video!
I will help, any way I can. Enjoy the boat, get familiar with it and then teach it that you are the boss in your off-time. Let me know if I can help. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood brilliant thankyou! i plan on having it at home for next winter so ill be winterizing,changing oil and filters and getting the coat polished and probably any gelcoat repair so ill definately be reaching out thanks :)
Wet sanding sounds like an added step that you can pass on, and it is. But that added process will actually save you time in the end. It will also reduce the number of polish pads used and is a for sure process to remove defects & bonded contaminants. Remember NEVER wet sand on flake. Commonly found on bass boats, the sparkling metallic surface should not be wet sanded.
I started to compliment your set of music and I see you identified all of it...right thing to do. I really liked all of it and at a perfect volume. Your years of experience make it look easy...I'm about to find out on my newly purchased 30 year old boat that same color. I feel like I'm stealing from you.
Learning, not stealing. Subtle difference however, if you teach someone else.. Now you've tricked the universe. Best of luck. I'll be around. You're the only one who likes that music, or you're sarcastic. Either way, 🤣👍🏼
@@Local_Boydidgood Nope. I went straight to the first piece of music's youtube page and subscribed. It reminds me of some of the music I create. All the rest of the pieces you used were good too but the first is my favorite. I'm going to play it for my wife when she wakes up to see what she says.
Or, you really like messing with her 1st thing in the morning. LOL Well, I'm happy to hear someone likes it. I've gotten flamed for it since uploading it. I suppose with my attitude, I shouldn't care if there are people who don't like it. Nope, don't care and now I know someone out there thought it was an interesting sound combo so I'm good. Thanks for reaching out and saying Hi. I appreciate the moment.
I am a new classic wooden boat restorer. I am hoping to get my hands on a fiberglass classic correct craft ski boat. I’ll be giving your techniques a try on that. Tom Do you ever ever buff/polish wooden bright work. Incidentally, I have read most of your comments and dialogue. You are very genuine. Keep it up.
You can research "Plumm Duff" and the m/v Accord. These are 2 boats with various types of varnish. I have polished them for years, before I began posting videos on youtube. Generally, if the varnish or clear emron/imron are in good condition, a foam pad and some Perfect-it ex ac should be all that's required. Clean and protect with Fire Glaze or a good polish that is pH neutral to the finish. As to a correct craft ski boat, the gelcoat tends to be very resistant to Compound, start aggressive and work your way back to Perfect-it ex ac and then use a boat "wax" for the first two seasons until the gelcoat has stabilized (stays oxidation free for a year or longer) then compound to perfection and use Fire Glaze.. I like helping if I can and the questions I receive are from people generally trying to figure this out. In the world of polishing boats, the knowledge base is coming from a paint correction background and has been so molested over 50 years that I understand their frustration. With as many boats as I've done and what I've learned, I feel a certain obligation to divulge some of what I've learned. If I can help someone enjoy their boat or a Detailer to be more efficient and make happier customers, I am honored to do so. Thanks for the comment and your kind words. Lee
So, I'm about to do this on my boat. I bought some cut n polish. Should I use it or no. I'm guessing first sweep cleans scratches. 2nd one finer. Then polish it.
Hi John. The short answers are, yes and no. I hate to sound egocentric but watch a few more of my videos and get a sense of what I do on the regular. The red bayliner vid does not show much and I was crap with the audio so hearing me talk is difficult. I've gotten better. Use a compound with a wool pad on a Rotary machine to get the results you want and then clean the surface, make sure it still looks the same and seal that shine in with a "wax" protection, sealant, polish, glaze... Just something made for gelcoat (no car waxes work for long) I have some long videos, watch 2-3 of them (grab snacks and a drink, they're boring AF) Then, after the basic ideas are underway, ask me anything. Thanks for watching this one though, it's an attention grabber. Lee
I just bought an older Key West with pretty heavy oxidization. Going to try this method. Should I peel the old decals off of it or just polish right over them? Thanks!
It all depends on what you want. I pull decals from boats because of a few reasons. Firstly I think people who engineered votes did a really good job at designing the shape and flow of lines that a boat has. And while I admit sometimes some decals seem to accentuate those lines, generally they do it in a very dated and not timely manner. My personal preference is to yank every decal and every emblem off of every boat so that what I'm left with is just a pure canvas of gelcoat that I can polish up. It is specifically in your choice. If however you do find that you remove the decals, just understand that there will be some artifacts of those decals in your gel coat that you will have to grind on to remove. If this is your first time compounding a boat, perhaps we'll leave the details where they are and see if you like the results of the work that you do. If you're happy with those results by all means the next time you do this to your boat hold the decals and have some fun. These are just suggestions it's just what I would do you ask a question and I thought I would answer as honestly as I could. If you need any advice I will be here. Thank you for watching thank you for your question good luck.
@@Local_Boydidgood Yeah, this is my first go with this, I'll probably just leave them on and see how good I can get it looking. Thanks so much for the reply!
hey brother would you recommend using a micro fiber pad to use for compound? Also do you have a video on how to prep a boat especially red color before adding compound to remove oxidation?
Looks great. Is there a way to tell that there is a shine hiding underneath the oxidation? Just bought a little skiff that looks about like yours but not sure there is a nice finish like yours waiting to be brought back.
Hi, thanks. This was just a demo. To answer your question, as long as you don't see a primer or fiberglass weave, you should be good, if there's enough gelcoat to oxidize but retain color, grind away. If it's thin, you'll learn quickly but it's rare for gelcoat to not be able to be brought back. I have about 300+ vids, keep watching to get a good idea of how this goes they are much better at showing the process and the audio doesn't suck so much. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for the reply! watching some of your vids now, a wealth of info, and obviously you've done a ton of boats. Nice of you to share the knowledge.
ok, I bought everything, did everything and my 96 cajun bass boat shines like glass. Now, How do I maintain it so I Never have to Heavy cut it again ??
Fists, congrats and, you're welcome. 2nd. I assume you also cleaned it well before waxing it with one of the waxes I suggest in the description. Now, every few months, spray and wipe it with 303 aerospace protectant or a good polymer spray "deataile/wax". Keep the boat clean, don't let water spots form and make sure to cover it when you can. The sun, dirt and the weather can all degrade the protective layer you apply. Don't use a ceramic on a boat older than 2-3 years old.
@@Local_Boydidgood I forgot say Thank you. I've tried it All, bought it All. Even used furniture polish ( I know, I know ) But after watching the magic you do with heavy cut. Honestly. She's never looked or felt better. Thanks for all the tips Lee. Keep up the good work. 👍
Lol, that's OK, I'm a dick and reminfmded you. I'm actually really haolppy to hear about your success, seriously. Thanks for letting me know. In all honesty, a badly oxidized boat might get hit once to get it right and then another few times but then you're good if you can keep it up. If done right, you can expect to never use Super-Duty again but you might need heavy cut once or twice and then Perfect-it ex ac but the time between now and then you can keep it going with a spray detailer. They work as stop-gaps and if used before your protection lets go. If you're on top of it, you can avoid buffing her again for years. Most people wait too long between maintenance. Sorry for busting your chops. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood No worries at all, she's a purple and black metal flake. Finish wasn't shot but the top side was oxidized. It took me all of a day, but I'm happy with the results. Thanks and for all the insight.
Buffing will not always cut it, you may get a beautiful shine but it doesn't always cut into the oxidation depending on how deep it is. If not cut deep enough it'll come back & maybe soon.
@@Local_Boydidgood ....... If you're into a year, you're good. That means the oxidation wasn't deep, if so, it would've shown by now. I was detailing a Black 28' COBALT. It was extremely oxidized. I compunded one side of the boat & it was beautiful & shiny, polar opposite. 😂 😢....... I came back the next morning & it was white again. The oxidation was that deep in the gelcoat. I had to wetsand 800 & 1000 grit & then compound, polish & wax. COBALTS & MONTEREY'S oxidized terribly.
I think there's a few boats that have come back a year later, that I have videos of. I'm not down for hiding anything. I'm all about grinding till correct and then locking it in. Most people get fooled by the oils in either the compound or wax. I always wash the boat after compounding to make sure it looks right. If I see any issues, I compound them out, wash again and then lock it in. ruclips.net/video/DWOGRlmnkvc/видео.html And this is 3-4 months after all that; ruclips.net/video/AjGDFAYy6SY/видео.html
Any way you do it, you'll want eye and lung protection. Last time we did this on our boat, we hauled it out and began power sanding it down to gelcoat. We then layered up 2 coats of 'Hullspeed' bottom paint. That's lasted a really long time, I've seen my old boat in the last year and the bottom paint is mostly there after 7-8 years. If just the sides are bad, scuff them up with some rough sandpaper, clean/dry then yes re-paint. Try to catch the debris in a tarp or water trap. Preferably do this at a real boat yard and help keep lakes and rivers clean-ish. You can not remain clean and do this work. I would only have done it for our own boat. I'd pay someone to do it next time. Added bonus: when repainting, scuff and clean up above the old (pre measured waterline and go up from that by 2 inches (about just the length of a thumb) You'll enjoy cleaning less buildup along the waterline this season. I'm no expert, youtube is full of them. Good luck, thanks for watching. Lee
I like to start with 3M super heavy compound and then go to the Perfect It Line on really bad gel coat. But, a good wool pad, the right tool, 3M Perfect It, and good technique will get these results. The right buffer is key. I love my Flex tools. Yeah, they were super costly, but I love the way they work and feel cutting my work by a 1/3.
Hi, I agree, the trick isn't tools or products. You might try the yellow/black. I helped design the DeWalt DWP849X. Out of 17 improvements specifically for gelcoat use, they took 14. and I've all the rest, even flex tools. I find them great for cars or smaller boats that are in good condition. Nothing lasts like the DeWalt. I push harder and longer than anyone I've ever seen with this style of tool and I'm on my 5th year on one tool. 3 on another backup buffer. I've used super duty 2-3 times in 15 years. It definitely has a place but it's horrible for your health and so messy. Try the heavy-cut. It will take an extra turn or two on really bad surfaces but finishes much better. It gets you to where the Perfect it, can be more effective, more quickly. The trade off should be to your liking. Thanks for the comment. These are just my opinions. Everyone has their own style. As long as the end results are the same, cool! Thanks for watching.
Thanks Ric. I appreciate the kind words. Being fair, the video is kind of raw and has horrible audio. I think it was one of my worst. I have about 300+ more that I think do a better job of showing how all this works. I'm glad you liked this one but my guess is, you'll learn more through some of the other ones. My best, Lee
OK. Great to know. I think there's a misconception on the part of many boat detailers that there's an infinite amount of gelcoat that one can comfortably grind through. From my perspective - as an automotive paint guy (historically anyway) - there's an increased amount of mystery (i.e., risk) when correcting gelcoat, especially on an older boat that has had multiple owners. I won't work on a car until I've thoroughly assessed the depth, condition and history of the paint. That's tougher to do with most boats, hence the need for even more caution when considering whether or not to sand. So I like your philosophy.
There's a "paint gague" for gelcoat/fiberglass/paint but it's $3,500 so, I tend to accept the risk equally with the owners. I mention the age and possibly going through but it's happened about once a year, out of about 150 boats. I choose to not fear that. I know it's a great time to suggest a respray of paint or gelcoat or a vinyl wrap. I don't see helping a boater overcome a thing like thin gelcoat, stop them from enjoying their boat. I show them alternatives. We always start with the lightest stuff 1st but gelcoat is 20 times thicker than paint and marine paint is very resilient and easy to keep up without grinding. Getting a customer to come in every 6 months (needed or not) for a wax is better than waiting to see oxidation before they call, I hate that.
I agree. It’s always good to be mindful of the potential for problems, but having an honest chat with the customer is a must. You can’t be paralyzed by the fear of messing up, although a tiny bit of fear isn’t unhealthy either.
Hi, I am in Titusville Fl. What is the best way I can almost lol take your class? Any way? Or do I just need to watch all of your videos? If you have an online way I am willing to pay! Please let me know thank you much! Hope to hear from you soon. Thanks for your videos and awesome work!
Thought I stumbled across an old video of Dax Shepard but all jokes aside this video is going to help me a lot with working on my hull this off season! Thanks!
Lee quick question, whats the difference between the heavy cut and super cut? Now on to the peanut gallery, you guys need to observe and listen to this guy, I wanted a wet look new finish on a 23yo cobia when i was finished , so i went down the buy this, buy that route, i bought a polisher, DA, wet sand, multi step compounds, wool, foam and was even thinking about a forced rotation buffer.. then i found lee's video, i originally listened to the morons at west marine pumping their garbage product that didnt work, so I bit the bullet and went for 3m, i was only able to find the 3m super duty locally, clench them cheeks boys and girls its $60 qt, this shit aint cheap, but i already spent over $100 on the worthless shit above from harbor freight and west marine, i just started my boat and lee's technique is working like a charm,, ive got the wet look that i was looking for with less than half the effort. Most of these videos you see on you tube are designed to sell you something, keep that in mind. To me Theres no school like old school, if something works, go with it, theres no need to re invent the wheel, wich is what alot of these videos are trying to do,, im 60yo and was told this a long time a go about business when i first started out in the dive industry,, "Create the Demand and then supply the product" thats exactly what these videos are doing, they try to make you believe their way is the newest, best and only way that works..thats simply not true, Listen to Lee.. oh btw , Im dealing with a south fla boat that heavily oxidized..
Wow.. Thanks, I'm still smiling. Super-Duty is diesel fuel and gravel that breaks down to a point and then it's just small sand. Heavy Cut has a reducing particle that eventually has a reducing molecule..it'll reduce to almost Perfect-it ex ac. Super-Duty is my shotgun, Heavy Cut is my stiletto and Perfect-it ex ac is a scalpel. My best and thanks again for the "peanut gallery" part, that was cool. Lee
Wow! I watched a friend wet sand his 30 year boat and thought, "There's got to be a better way." Thanks for showing me there is before I tackle my 26 year old boat. One question, what is the reasoning of starting at a lower RPM and then going up? Thanks again!
Can say for sure this works a treat. Right compounds, right pads and right technique. I transformed my 37ft blue hulled J110 from oxidised mare to beauty.😊
will this work on ghost stripes too ? I removed some old decal swoohes from the sides and the gelcoat is darker underneath where they were, want it all to match... thanks
You determine that. With some time, yes. With some effort, yes. You can sand it down if needed. Super-Duty should be able to make a dent and Heavy cut should bring it all together after a bit. Every time you buff it, they'll get better.
After cutting what was the second 3m product finesse ? Have you tried the whole line of 3m gel coat polishing or their wax ? Love the work an the idgaf attitude keep it up
I hate any 2-in-one or a wax added to a cutting agent. It's imporethat the bond between your final protection and the boat be good and strong. Applying a "wax" over a freshly compounded surface, unless squeeky clean to the touch, the polish or wax is mixed with cutting molecules, they're still on the surface, hidden in the wax.. Better to not buy all the 3M line and just use one compound (possibly 2 on bad boats. Here Perfect-it ex ac or heavy-cut followed by Meguiar's Flagship) Thanks very much for the kind words. My pleasure.
Just making sure I heard and read some of your comments on other vids you take the wax off with fine pad for the supreme shine ? Do you put meguirees on with rotary thanks for reply
I sometimes call Perfect-it, Finess-it. I'm better now but, sorry. I'll apply the wax with a Terry cloth rag typically unless I'm going for an outstanding shine or on dark gelcoat, I'll apply the wax to a soft pad on a dual-action or random orbital buffer. Spread it. Grab a new soft pad and remove it.
I appreciate the kind words on the work. Bring her to Chelan and I'm game. I don't drive for work anymore. If you're in the 206 there's a guy over there I like the work of and his work ethic is on point. You can find his contact info in my youtube channel's "about me" section.
Will this process work well on aluminum boats, too. i recently purchased an Alumacraft that was stored in a lean-to shed for years before I began its life stored indoors unless on the water.
ruclips.net/video/QrF-McBOEHQ/видео.html This video would be a better choice. You can try but aluminum is a whole different beast, like paint is a different beast. Tell him I said Hi. And luck. Sorry I can't offer you more.
I been Doing more & more boats lately , your video gave me a huje insight as to how yo really grab more Shine , I use 800/ 1200/ 2500 grit then 3D #1 with a Wool pad after , then Lake Countries yellow pad with Cherry wax for a Great shine... Your videos Rock bro from The Inland Empire Ca ...
Thanks. I'm glad you found a process that works for you. I also know that sanding before compounding can be a good process. I don't push it but I'm pushing a faster path, not better for some but for most people. Thanks for the comment and I appreciate your support truly. If you want a good wax, Fire Glaze is legitimately the best stuff I've ever used. If you can get to perfection, just try it. It'll blow your mind. (works on cars too)
What a great video! I have a 17 foot 1984 chris craft that I need to put some love on. It's been baking for many years now in the sun. After you cut do you recommend any kind of sealer or protectant?
I'm not sure when but sure. I have lots of videos that can answer any questions you might have. Grinding gelcoat to submitting is my gig. ruclips.net/video/dJT5EqX5cb4/видео.html (just to inspire you) Keep watching my vids, they all cover what I use in some way and how to best protect the boat. Yours requires a lot (not being mean) if it's really dry. Good luck. Thanks for taking the time to watch it.
Meguiar's Flagship liquid wax, 3m's liquid wax with scotchguard, pro polish by Shurehold. In my opinion, the best off the shelf stuff you can buy but you have to watch more of my vids to learn the how and why of when to do things and then, worry about the protecting. This video was a demo, a "proof of concept" for the doubters out there that only sand boats. It wasn't intended to be a "how-to". Watch my longer vids for that or attend a class and go home and kill that CC, make it your boat again. No matter what you do (as not me;bragging a bit) the shine will fade eventually. Old neglected gelcoat hides it's decay deep. Unless you go super deep and pull off all the oxidation, you can expect to do this whole thing again in 6-8 months to a year. Still WAY easier than sanding but, on a 17' boat not terrible if it's your baby. Then, once you have a decent layer of gelcoat to work with, use what I do to polish her to jewel level and keep her looking that way easily with a yearly or every 6 months, wiping her down with a good sealant/wax. Sorry for the short answer earlier. I was driving and shot you a blurb at a fuel station.
So much said with few words but effective. It gives me hope for my 1984 procraft that I don’t know when or if it was ever buffed or polished. Used to be candy apple red metallic flake. Now looks like root beer🤣😂 Do I even stand a chance. I DO NOT WANT TO WET SAND IT OVER AND OVER AND OVER. you get. Thanks for some inspiration and knowledge. Your comments please.
Try super duty or Heavy cut by 3M. I don't even remember the 2 boats in 15 years I couldn't bring back. Good wool pads and patience. Let the products do the work. Procrafts use good gelcoat. Right underneath all that chalk is your boat, I dare you to prove me wrong! Any vid I have past 15 minutes will have some "how-to" words. Sometimes, I just like letting the work, do the work of talking for me. Happy to hear that I reached someone and possibly helped.
Hi Lee, I have a boat with red gelcoat and is in the same condition as your training Bayliner, I've currently tried a couple of test areas with a dewalt rotary polisher a wool pad and 3m heavy cut but I don't see the pad turning red as material is removed , any thoughts please. Really enjoy watching your skill and professionalism. Cheers Simon in the UK.
@@Local_Boydidgood Oxidation has gone but looks like dirty marks in the gel coat under a glazed shine, and is a different colour to the original colour that was behind the outboard .
Do it again. It sounds like you need to go harder. Chances are, your oxidized gelcoat wasn't at all like what you saw in this video. Color changes and you might never see it the same again. Exposed gelcoat Vs what's around an outboard will be different for a few reasons (all time related) Try Super Duty and cleave off the top of the gelcoat. Then try Heavy Cut. You might contact a local detailing company to give you a quote or just let them get you to a place where you can maintain your boat from then on. I can't diagnose your problem from here.
Come to Chelan WA and take my class 1st, then read a ton of material online to learn how to market and run a small business efficiently. Then make money. If you're washing 42 boats a year, twice a month, you'll clear $100k. Add waxing once every 6 months and start hiring good people, training good people and never look back. Last year I was with my previous company, we grossed over $700k but it took 13 years to get there. 1st year was $145k so there's a bit of an idea of what's possible if you're motivated and people like your work. I say stop working for others and do what is best for you and yours. My time, is my time. I decide who my customers are and who isn't. I charge what I feel I'm worth and get to do anything I need to do outside of work, when I want to. Don't fear the rope (being your own boss) that's what the safety net (other jobs) is for, to catch you if you fail. You probably won't. Just be great at what you do and failure is never an option.
I’ve been detailing for years. One guy who taught me how to do boats taught me to use a water spray bottle and sprits light over decals. So this tripped me out to see that’s it’s really not needed
Sadly, I see lots of stuff used because someone told someone how to do it. I started out just like you, listening to what people told me but within a few years, I just went my own way. I use 3M compounds in ways they don't even understand. To get Super-Duty to finish to a swirl-free finish Heavy Cut is easier as is Perfect-it ex ac but if you had told me that was possible 13 years ago, I'd have said you were crazy. If I hadn't seen it, I just wouldn't have believed it. I'm just trying to show people, there's more than just what the last generation had going for it. Glad you found this, there's about 200 more vids and some of them might get you to the same spot this one did, opening to new ideas. Thanks for the comment.
Hello Lee, Just found your video, about to start to polish a boat for the first time i a couple of weeks. Whats the brand of the big pad that you use both sides on? And whats that tool you use to clean the pad before you start? Bregards from Sweden :)
Hi, I use a few different kinds. Check out the description for part #'s. The spur is called a "spur tool." You can find them where paint supplies are sold (automobile paint) Good luck.. Lycka till och tack! Lee
Your are making it look so easy ! What machine are you using? Da Walt ? And did you run 3m heavy cut and what was the 2nd Polish that you used that went over that decal so great ! Thank you for sharing the knowledge!
Thanks, took me 10 years to figure this out and another 5 to perfect it. Glad you're watching, I appreciate it. 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Dewalt DWP849X Heavy-cut and perfect-it ex ac rubbing compound by 3M I found a way to let the compound, pad and machine do almost all the work. Easier on my old elbows and shoulders. 😊
I'm having trouble with my 87 formula. It's red and very pink. Where I peeled the old stickers off, exposing the unharmed paint, it's almost like you can feel the difference with your finger, like the paint on the hull wore down. I tried buffing it out with 3m heavy cut and a wool pad with no luck. It cleaned up a bit, but didn't bring any color back. Any advice?
Hi. The decals covered your gelcoat for a long time (although, you said paint and I've seen some painted formulas from that era..) As the rest of the surface was eaten away by boat washes, polishing and time exposed, what was underneath stayed relatively stable and never wore down. You can almost always get the surface difference between where a decal was and the rest of the boat with Heavy Cut by 3M but never really fully even and flush, not on your 1st passes at least. If you buff the boat year after year, that will minimize but some people just want it gone. The best way is to block sand it smooth and then buff it (in my opinion) This will level the surface and while doing so, you might find that the color around the decal's old home, has that color you wanted to see. Sometimes however, on older paint, that's now the color. From '87, at almost 30, it's acceptable to show some age. As to your gelcoat (if it is) You can try Super-Duty to get through the oxidized surface to color and a shine however, Heavy Cut can usually get you there with less mess and just takes a bit longer but finishes much nicer. I apologize, without being there, difficult for me to assess your boat from here. If you were standing near me, I'd say try again, try harder, try longer, make sure you're using a 3M wool pad meant for compounding. www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 (3 year polish) 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
@@Local_Boydidgood great info, thank you. The stripe decals were towards the top, and im not too concerned about leveling the paint, I was just worried it was maybe worn too thin, but I suppose that's normal. It's just very hard getting any color to come back. I'm gunna try those new 3m pads but am noconvoced it's going to do well. We shall see
I can't tell you how many times I hear this, until a 3M pad is used and then we'll see. I have faith. Most pads out there, even wool, are too soft and gentle. You need a shotgun (analogous usage) Come tell us what you get when you have a decent pad. Good luck.
Thankyou for this video. Im about to do this on my 1992 Sunbird. You dont happen to know where i could find the trim covering the channels of the windows? Looks like same as yours.
Hi, this isn't my boat so as far as where to buy parts.. Google? I'm sure there are a few places out there that carry replacement parts or New Old Stock (NOS) parts. Good luck on your boat, glad this video helped. Lee
Thank you for sharing all your experience, i been watching your videos for about 2 hrs, can you please tell me the speed that I need to used on the different compounds. Thank you
Slow. Lento. If you watch enough of my videos, you'll find some where I talk about speeds. Slow works and is safe. If, after some years, you want to go faster because you've learned your skills well, go ahead.
Thanks. Depends on the decal. In this video, I just went over them as if they weren't there. Sometimes you mask them off, sometimes you just don't worry about it. Here's a vid (I have plenty more) of me going over decals. ruclips.net/video/Flh_5N__oeQ/видео.html
What product you use to get rid of oxidation probably work good on a vehicle too I have foam pads and other pads already I rather use my da polisher than the rotary used it again on my truck and it burned through the paint but gonna paint it again this year anyway again.
I use a double-sided wool compounding pad by 3m. Either screw in or quick connect. If you read the description, you can usually see in my vids, a list of the crap ai use.
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with
Ok Lee. So how much sanding do you actually do, and at what point do you consider it necessary? I’m also interested in your thoughts on machine speed. I know it’s not an exact science, but can you offer any guidelines?
I don't sand. Never have, probably never will. If I ponder sanding, I call my friend Super-duty by 3M and never look back. ruclips.net/video/M7m3-6FdPaA/видео.html ruclips.net/video/VlJCwSxfrfI/видео.html Is yours worse? These were 2 of the worst from last season. They both still look great. No Sanding. Running slow is as effective as running fast but as I have more boats behind each one I do, I go fast where I can. Swirls love speed. Speed is dangerous for the unfamiliar. I'd stay slow until you feel like you are ready.
Anytime. A foam pad can not go fast if you are thinking of using one. Wool can but you need a well balanced pad (no vibration at all) I return 4 pads out if 9 and replace them with better pads if possible. All my pads spin without oscillating. This is how I can compound fast without swirls. If I had a wobbly pad, slow would work and fast would ruin your boat's reflection with swirls. Up until 5 years ago, I went slow and achieved perfection that way. By that time, I'd been buffing for 10 years and feared the speed. Speed only works on flat surfaces, not rounded (smaller surface than the pad (minus 2"- edges hardly ever touch the surface unless you edge the buffer. Basically, the compound uses the weight of the buffer to work. More and you risk swirls and burning, too little and you'll scratch the surface with the grit from the compound. There needs to be something pressing the fibers down onto the boat but not too much.
That’s a lot of great info. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Your comment about foam pads peaked my interest. My background is auto paint correction, so foam (and microfibre) are it for me. I’m going to start doing some boat work and had hoped to get by (initially anyway) with some heavy cut foam pads paired with a forced rotation DA (Flex 3401), but it looks like I’ll need a rotary as my primary tool. Thanks again Lee.
Gelcoat Boats like wool. Cars and marine paints like foam. Odd I know but it works out that way typically. Too much heat gets built up on gelcoat when really grinding hard w/foam.
Lee I have two spots on a bass boat I am doing that looks oxidized but I’ll be damn if I can get it out. I’ve tried all the way to 600. Stopped afraid I would start to silver the flake. I usually use 3M heavy then perfect it then wax and polish. Any idea what I could try. It’s very noticeable when the rest is glassing out so well. Too bad I couldn’t send a picture.
You can try heavy cut again but this time, spread it out, put your wheel up on an edge and allow it to spin and move either to the right or left (depending on the section) very slowly. Allow the grit to have a moment with the spot. No real pressure, more slow moving and time of wheel on gelcoat. Don't let it spin in one area but move it at a snail's pace across the section and then see if you have a gloss. Sometimes, I cannot get every part to shine either. It sucks. Add decals!? Sorry man, that's all I got from here, blind.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks brother. Yeah what’s weird is one direction you look say from port to nose it looks fine. Look nose to port and it looks like chalk. I went at it again today for a while and nothing. It’s almost like there silver flake was layer down in one direction. Causing somewhat of an optical illusion that it looks faded but isn’t. Lol
You can always try some sand paper. Watch some videos on Wetsanding. I know nothing about the process. Sometimes flake lays in strange ways. I hope you get through it and get to a pretty boat.
You can use a stiff bristle brush (or a stiff bristle pad for a random orbital buffer), work in an aggressive Cleaner Wax and wipe it off with a microfiber towel or use a gritty rubbing compound and a rotary buffer with a wool pad. Clean and wax with something not so slippery as "wax". Woody's wax and some stuff made for Non-skid would be good choices.
Lee, My name is Lee also, What machine you suggest for a beginner removing oxidation off the boat that I own? What products did you use? I am in the coastal Carolinas and can't get to you. I have that similar color red Hurricane boat with the same issue
Hi Lee (that feels weird. Lol) Dewalt DWP849X www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome) or (05723-new version 😑) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Depending on how much is left. I've heard sanding the surface lightly 1st is best if the flake can be felt with your hand (bumpy and catchy) Do a test spot but it all depends on how much is left to work with. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I have a 1988 bassboat with a red metal flake top cap. In the garage, it looks like a million dollars. On a cloudy day, it looks like a million dollars. When I am on the water, it looks like a million dollars until the sun hits it a just the right angle. Then you can see a cloudiness in some areas. Its like the gelcoat has something in it under the surface. I don't feel any flake coming through and I have used lots of different compounds on it including the 3m heavy cut which I read will remove 800 grit scratches. Maybe I am running the wrong speed. What rpm should the wool pad be run on the rotary? Is there a point where wet sanding is the only option or is there something even more aggressive than the 3m heavy?
I'm late to the party but any idea where I can pick up these products In Canada/Saskatchewan And I'll have to watch again. Blew threw it and not sure of the order of operation. Thanks for the help BTW
It's ok, there's about 200 videos like this in my Playlist marked "boats N stuff" As to where you can locate them.. Sorry man, no clue but the Google machine. I use a DeWalt DWP849X If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 (tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊) 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome) or (05723-new version 😑) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Start with Perfect-it ex ac and see if that gets you to where you want to be. If not, Heavy Cut and if not, Super-Duty but if so, follow with Perfect-it ex ac and then clean, inspect and wax.
DWP849X. I've seen this. Try going more aggressive in the earlier passes and really grind on the surface to get down to pigment that hasn't bleached out. Apply the "wax" thicker than normal and let it sit a bit, possibly repeat. Good luck.
@Local boydidgood thank you for the response. I am using a Flex DA with wool how fast do I want be cutting when really pressing into it? Also should I use a deoxidizer at all?
If you have bad, deep oxidation, a DA will be most effective with sandpaper. You can get a rubbing compound on a wool pad and a DA but you'll have to be there for a long time @ high speeds with decent pressure. I feel like you need a rotary or some sanding disks. I hate to toss out a challenge but rotary works harder. Look for one used online. Dewalt, porter cable, makita... A DA can bring back a shine but takes forever to get a glossy mirror like finish with deep oxidation.
What product did you use on the white Gel coat on that old Red / White Bayliner? I have a 1990 Bayliner Avanti 3555. It's Gray and white and the white is being difficult. Jim
I use a DeWalt DWP849X If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 (tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊) 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome) or (05723-new version 😑) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
@@Local_Boydidgood I think the product I have been using may be the problem. It is what was Formally Reel Shine now Starke Yacht Care Products. They seemed ok but I will switch to 3M. I was wondering if you had any comments on Starke Products. The sealer or wax seemed to work very good.Thank you so much
So slow to cut fast to polish? What speed did you srart at ? I started detailing boats a month ago and was taught to use 1400 rpm all the way we use the 3m products you are using
Whoever taught you that isn't worried about swirls. Go 600. If you try to do what I do, you're going to hurt either the boat or yourself. Watch this for an example of why it doesn't matter really, what speed you go, it doesn't save time usually. The results will be better if you go slow. I go fast because nobody on youtube can do this in the sun to a swirl-free finish, none of the "experts". ruclips.net/video/ky-qHYzJlo4/видео.html If, if you get really good and confident, you can do what I do but there's no need. Go slow.
Sad to think someone would let a boat go to waste like that. It takes someone who can see the potential to bring something so neglected back to its glory. I do cars all the time like this and it pays good. Heck I can make a $1000.00 in a day by just detailing a rig someone was to lazy to take care of. Nice work!
Sounds like a great plan. 303 aerospace protectant would do well for you. Meguiar's Flagship or 3m's liquid wax w/scotchguard. Shoot for every 3-4 months and double-down on that assurance. No need to tempt your boat to mess up your plans, that's all she wants to do and you know it. 😉
Watched every second of the video without needing a drink lol. I ordered the Dewalt and the first 3M product but wondering why the switch after the first section ? What's the difference between the first and the 06085 ? Should I choose one over the other depending on my issues ? Or use both ?
Just a demo, I use both because some boats will need either or both. This is just an example of what can be done/expected if either product is used. If you don't know what you'll need? Have both ready to be used. Glad you didn't dehydrate. Typically I use the following: www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
I just finished watching the 32min Blue Bayliner video and it turned out great. I've never been a fan of wet sanding though I don't understand it all but your method just seems so much more practical plus I'm watching you guys do it without a lot of cut between parts if any. I don't expect your type of outcome as you've got way more experience so if I can just get a 10th of it I would be happy lol. Thanks
I've had 16 year old girls, 72 year old women and men in their upper 70's get this from watching the videos. I get pics and vids a few times a week, from folks who just watched and watched and watched. At some point, the core concept hits you and bam, you're buffing like a champ. Spread, edges, cross-cut your middles and smooth out till almost gone (the compound) and the oxidation. Clean, inspect, lock that shine in. I'm sure you can do it. I have like 200+ vids and many of them are just boring, "here's what I do" vids.
I just bought the 05954 from O'REILLYs and have the other two coming from Amazon today, so tell 3M you making them money 💰 hahaha My Dewalt won't be here until tomorrow but I do have a cheap one that I will try just to get this out of my system until then. I just purchased a 21fter that has bad oxidation in red, just like this video. I'm super excited and I will NOT blame anyone if I can't get it looking like yours. I just needed a starting point and like mentioned before, I'm not a wet sand fan.... I wish they allowed you to attach pics on RUclips comments...... really appreciate your help and have already started sharing your channel
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Dewalt DWP849X Super Duty rubbing compound by 3M Heavy-cut by 3M & Perfect-it ex ac by 3M (the last pllishing/shining product you should use on gelcoat if done correctly, right before the wash/inspect and the wax/polosh/sealant www.restructuremarine.com/
Have you ever heard of mixing baby oil In with the polish. I’ve never tried it but I know in another video you mention a secret was wondering if that was it or if it’s any good
I think in that vid, just 1 compound (I forget) if you use any compound the way I do, get a result you like, clean it and any polymer-based product to lock in the shine. All the work (surface finishing) is done with compound, flagship just seals.
Flagship, Jasper's, pro polish, restructure marine polish, 3m's liquid wax.. I trust them (except Jasper's, too young a product for me to fully trust) there's others out there but these almost always make me smile
No compound worth a damn has a sealant built in. Meguiar's #67 claims it does, nope. Call them and confirm for yourself if needed. The sealant/wax/polish used isn't expected to polish anything on my boats. I do it with the compound.
Hey man I’ve got a few questions... I’ve used a few different cutting compounds and polish on my gel coat it will look great or somewhat anyways for a week or so and the oxidation will come right back? I’m not sure why or how but I’m curious lol.. What products did you use in this video?
It doesn't matter what I use. Every boat is different. You can use clay dirt and dust in water (seriously, I've seen it but don't recommend it) on a wheel and remove oxidation. I'd suggest going until the surface looks great after it's cleaned and inspected. Then, use a bespoke marine polish/wax/sealant. Don't use a car wax on a boat. Apply evenly (perhaps thicker this time) let dry (a tad longer) and buff off (slowly) If it fades in a week due to sun (you can see one side looking better, in the shade) then you didn't get the oxidation out and you didn't saturate the gelcoat with wax. I'm not going to be able to diagnose what's going on with your boat from here but it all comes down to getting through the oxidation, not just hiding it with oils in compounds like Menzerna, Meguiar's #67 or 91... Very oily and they hide some stuff. 3m perfect-it AC-Ex is a good compound. Flagship by Meguiar's or 3M's liquid "wax" also last a while. Pics would help. Alwayswithacoke@hotmail.com If a boat is really bad, it can have oxidation throughout the gelcoat layer. If this is the case, paint or a vinyl wrap are Great alternatives to propping up a failing surface.
One more thought: if you compound and like the results, do it again. I do this all the time. I'll think "I got it!" but knowing I've been fooled before, I do another pass and figure I got it then. Gelcoat is a trickster. It isn't like paint or metal, it has phases it goes through from day to day.
After watching a lot of your videos I starting working on my extremely oxidated boat. It’s going well thanks to your videos. My question is Should a white gel coat reflect as much as one with color? My boat is completely white so I have nothing to compare it to. I’m figuring without pigment the image won’t reflect as well?
You're correct, dark gelcoat appears to reflect more. It's an illusion. It's one of the reasons I only do correction/perfecting of gelcoat in either a shop with bright lights or in direct sunlight. You can still achieve a high gloss and it should look like wet, white paint when perfect. You won't see the detail in the reflection as much because the white color reflects so much overall light that it washes out the image being reflected. The same level of surface reflectivity exists between white and colored gelcoats but we perceive it differently. When you can see either a dot of a reflection from the sun (a dot not a blob) or color reflected in white gelcoat, you're good. If I can see my face in the reflection, detail in it and the colors of my skin and eyes, I'm pretty much there or good enough for the girls I date anyhow. Glad you're enjoying the vids. It made my day.
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks so much man for responding, I kept looking and looking for some information on that and couldn’t find anything. Appreciate your videos, by far the best out there!!! You have ignited our love for our boat!!! Thank you!
What is that 2nd bottle 06085 you used? I cant find it in a 3m search. Or rather can you list the 3M products I need starting with Heavy cut? it looks like if I just follow their labels maybe that will work for me? Heavy Cut, Polish, wax all by 3M? Also what do you think of compared to Mequiars I have used before and just bought a few weeks ago but havent applied it yet. Shoulld I just throw it out and go wiith the 3M instead? My boat is heavily oxidized on the side that sits in the sun all the time in the slip. I've waxed by hand in the past and it never retains the gloss, goes to chalk almost instantly.
3M compounds are the best.. They own Meguiar’s... Start with Super-Duty or Heavy Cut. Finish with Perfect-it ex ac and clean/inspect the finish. Apply a marine wax like Flagship (by Meguiar’s) and keep her clean with a "spray detailer" between washes and before/after use.. Auto parts stores sometimes carry Super-Duty. The Meguiar’s compound, either #67 or 91, are super oily and will hide oxidation from you.. ruclips.net/video/yPIX9Qswp-4/видео.htmlfeature=shared This video was just an "in your face" vid to show what's possible, don't follow what I did here, watch any of the other vids I've done to get a better idea of how this works. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Cool thanks. Ok another question I have is I just got the Makita tool that looks like the yellow one you have. Is there a reason you use it without the handle on? I put the U shaped handle on mine for added security to hold on to, because my boat is in the water in the slip on a lift and I sure dont want to risk dropping it, I think the handle would give me something to hold on to it better.
It gets in the way. It's for car detailers but you can use it if you want, no foul. I wrap the cord around my arm and then if I drop the buffer, the friction of the cord gives me a few extra moments to catch the cord as it falls. Fresh water won't kill one if you dry it, spray it with wd-40 and spin it every few hours to keep it from rusting shut. In salt water.. Buy a new buffer. Boats have lots of places I need to force a buffer. A handle gets in the way in my work. None of my guys used either the side handle or the D-ring or D-loop but it's ok if you do. If you find it in the way, remove it. Lee
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome) or (05723-new version 😑) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Yes. You'll never, EVER get these results without literally days using a DA or forced rotation. You need a rotary on this level of oxidation. You can finish possibly with a DA but unless you're working with actual sand as the abrasive, they just massage the gelcoat. I need something to get the job done so that I can get to the next boat before the month is gone.
I use 3m foam, wool or nylon pads, some soft Shurehold DA pads and that's about it. 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754).
@@Local_Boydidgood BTW I've been working on BMW's probably about as long as you've been detailing boats (before the E39 was released), you can look up my name on Instagram if you ever have a question about your E39 you can DM me.
Well, figure out how I can tune the 4.6us motor to accept a twin-screw blower and I'll help you buff stuff! 😝👍🏼 I'm not on anything but bimmerforums.com and here. I don't do social stuff well. 🤪
Ill start by saying great work and excellent results thank you for sharing your knowledge I have no experience with gel coat why is the pad with the color of the boat is that normal ?? I appreciate the input
Fairly normal. You're removing gelcoat that's oxidized so, it stays in the pad and gets thrown about off the pad. Thanks for the view/comment and question. As long as it's not horribly dark while being near a white gelcoat, you'll be fine, the cleaning and wax afterwards will remove it. If concerned, tape stuff off with blue masking tape (not frog tape)
Glad you liked it. The last vid (58 minutes) shows more on using compound on small surfaces on the topsides. You might enjoy it. Bring food and a drink, it's long.
Oh my goodness, thank you so very much I followed your advice and my neighbors couldn't believe it was the same boat. They were taking videos of my polishing up the paint. I only spent maybe an hour with 3M super duty compound and haven't even waxed the boat. I want to send you before and after pics. Thanks again if you are ever in North Carolina please let us know dinner is on us no matter the cost. Wayne
There is no "sander". I use a DeWalt DWP849X rotary polisher or buffer or "buff" (if in Australia) If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 (tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊) 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome) or (05723-new version 😑) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
It's been a year. Can you tell us how you did in front of the glass? It looks phenomenal, I am going to give it a try on my, new to me, neglected '83 Beachcraft
Hi Joseph, Thanks for the kind words. As to the front, I used Heavy Cut followed by Perfect-it ex ac with a wool pad. I then used a window cleaner to remove the compound oils and applied Meguiar's Flagship to the area under the glass. I put it on thick and let it sit till dry.
It's still shiny today and that was over 2 years ago. Maintenance is a big part of it but also, getting all the oxidation out to begin with. If it's super thick, try sanding first? ruclips.net/video/h5seC2AOWE0/видео.html This was one of the worst boats I've ever done. Sanding would have saved time perhaps but I've also learned a ton since then and have never sanded a boat (outside of removing issues left behind after removing emblems or decals, just to save time) Compound and the right tools and techniques can do everything I need them to. Lee
Initially, no. It is on this boat as a test but in the 1st video of this boat, I think Flagship liquid wax by Meguiar's (owned by 3M) Thanks for the kind words. I think if you look at any of my 300+ other videos to see something better than my detailer thirsthl-trap here. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood hi. Really enjoying your videos and sharing them with friends. Just wondering what you would suggest to remove silicone residue... under my bump rubbers strip I notice a previous repair put silicone in but was messy.. I have tried surface prep, rubbing alcholol and acetone... but can not get it off.. appreciate you help.
Hi David. Use a scraper and a knife (carefully) to remove a majority of it and then; Once you're removed most of the silicone use a cloth and some methylated spirits to wipe the remnants off. The methylated spirits act as a solvent in this scenario helping break down the last of the silicone and making it easier to manage and less sticky. It sucks..
No. It took off the oxidized portion of the gelcoat, not paint. There's no paint here. Past the gelcoat is fiberglass mesh and resin. (Bayliner cut some corners early on)
No. The lady that used to own it decades ago came by to see it. I guess in a small town, news travels. It'll be a demo till the whole thing is done. At that point, I'll sell it for the trailer and the hull. The boat could be brought back but why. This is just a final test boat for students and so I don't have to try and convince people who come by asking if we can bring a boat back. I can just point outside at this thing, discussion avoided.
In advertising alone, that boat has made the shop enough money to warrant whatever the material cost was and to have it sitting outside the shop to prove our work in awesome. The point was that almost any boat can be brought back. I know the sound in that video are horrible, I do explain all this in the video. Thanks for the comment.
I appreciate the kind offer but I stay out of people's commerce if I can. I use a DeWalt DWP849X If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 (tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊) 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome) or (05723-new version 😑) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you I really appreciate the knowledge. We just purchased a 1996 Maxum 2100 SR with a trailer for 2k. I was researching a vinyl wrap, but want to bring back the shine for sure. Stinks we can't chat live, but I get it. Wayne
I know the boat. Heavy Cut should do it unless it was submerged in saltwater and then dried out in the Bahamas. In that case, Super-Duty to "break the surface" then Heavy cut. You can always make a video and send me the link. I support vinyl wraps for eally bad boats but watch some of my Playlist and I'm sure you'll see a boat in a similar condition.
@@Local_Boydidgood Boat is in North Carolina I was told it's always been a freshwater boat, but who knows. I'm about to order the products and make a video for sure. If you visit North Carolina dinner if definitely on me.
I appreciate your kind words, thanks. Old bayliner usually shine up if they've been left alone for a decade or two. We did have thoughts of flipping her but at the shop, so effective at up selling.
You have proven what I suspected all along. Down here in Miami folks are trying to sell a 4 stage for almost $10k on a 32' CC. They are out of their minds. They get a good result and theres people here that pay it. Im not one.
@Local_Boydidgood I'm like 10 years into this stuff. I'm not going to watch your vids. Sorry. Sometimes stuff just needs to be sanded. Heavy cut won't get past all of the oxidation. Sorry.
Super-Duty, not heavy cut. Years has nothing to do with it. As an example; I have twice as many as you and invented this polisher... You being lazy and not wanting to do more to get better is telling me everything I need to know. Good luck out there. I seen the vids.. Seriously, good luck. Lee
Hey long time no see, we met up with Jed and the others when I had my Alpine White M5, and my tiag 540it. I have a 1986 Mirage that could use your expert buffing, it still shines real nice except for the black on the bow around the hatch.
Bring it to Chelan, bring beer. Is it this bad? ruclips.net/video/NiMe9hWkX_A/видео.html If so: ruclips.net/video/yuMI-1LN2wA/видео.html I got'chu boo.
As a detailer that operates and deals with heavy oxidation in south Florida, I can second this motion of sticking to using heavy cut compounds. It saves everyone involved time and money from wet-sanding. I couldn’t here more encouraging words when you said that if you just use heavy cut correctly you won’t really need wet sanding.
Respect your grind brother, love from soflo 🤙
The luv gets returned, thanks. Stay hydrated brother. I might have heat but there's no humidity here, you guys deserve medals for doing this down there!
Learned from watching your videos. My boat looks new again. Thank you
Good stuff to hear, thanks!
Lee
I'm glad I happened to find this video. I recently bought a used boat which has a broad band of red on the hull, and I was pretty much expecting to have to go down the vinyl wrap route, as the red is so faded. It's nowhere near as bad as the red was in your video though, so now I am inspired to get compounding and polishing, and I am confident of achieving good results. Thank you.
That's cool and exactly why I made that video. Best of luck.
Lee
I helped a friend detail her boat this past Spring. It took a week of both of us working all day long on the damn thing. I wish I had seen this video first. Everyone I talked to said you have to wet sand over and over going up in grit. then light compound/ polish then wax. Everyone said that.
Im gonna call some of them tomorrow and give them grief. PS, that boat sure did look good when we finally finished it. I dare say probably better than new.
Many ways to skin a cat but sadly, nobody wants to try new (old actually) stuff.
Glad you now know another way.
Thanks,
Lee
A good finish as usual. I brush on my compound so I don't fuss with machine speed, but you do a great job varying speed on the spread out and avoid the crazy sling I see in so many yards. I've been brushing on compound since my body shop days as super duty came in a gallon paint can and just like the way it defines my working area. It also helps give even cut across a surface that likes to drink the moisture out of product.
When I encounter a boat like this, I start with a 3M 7445 or 7448 scotch pad with good detergent soap to skim the top layer of dead gelcoat off and let it wash away. That much dead oxidization with embedded mold just frustratingly plugs up the pad and takes way too much time to grind away at. A human can only move their arms so many times in one day. If that was a 48' yacht, you'd be at that for 5 days straight on super duty.
Sounds like you've "been there" If a Super-Duty job came in that was the whole 50-100', I'd make all my profit for the year on that boat and mostly would just pass to be honest.
I'm just trying to get people to be aware that this is possible without sanding, that's all I'm doing, ever.
I appreciate the knowledge and comments! Thanks.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I generally buy boats to clean them up enjoy them for a bit and eventually flip them. My current project is a 2000 Silverton 45 that hasn’t seen a buffer or coat of wax since 2017. I’m giving it a full gelcoat restoration this spring. A Local company wanted $6500 to compound and wax. It’s more than a $6500 job in labor and material if done right so behind the (wool) wheel I go. Some earbuds and good tunes can be somewhat relaxing.
$3,800 and my guys and I would have done that boat in 2 days and used Flagship by Meguiar's the 1st good waxing. Next year, compound out the boat again and use Fire Glaze +. You would then just keep the boat clean throughout the season and reapply the fire glaze + once a year.
Flipping can be fun. I've sold some smaller boats, trailerable but only a few big girls. I was a broker a while back and sold some decent sized boats. I wasn't fixing them as just collecting commissions for doing nothing. Gross.
@ $100 a ft, I expect to give you perfection. Your detailer in-question didn't want the job or knew how to tackle it. There's plenty of low hanging fruit out there for a hungry buffer. I'm glad you're motivated.
Small sections connect to make a large one. Large ones become parts, parts become tops or hulls or sides, back or front.
Top down, front to back so you aren't walking over what you spent all day getting perfect.
Good luck! Enjoy the tunes and have a cold beverage now and then.
Lee
Got a 40yr old Wellcraft that in its prime was taxi cab yellow. Now it's sortof inside of a banana then driven through liquid chalk look I tried a couple of compounds and in some places was OK but not consistent. Gave up and went to wet sanding. Have 1/2 of it done, looks good but damn what a pain. Gonna try this stuff. Also trying to see if you're buffing differently than I do. Done a few cars but none of them covered in gel coat. Thanks more than I can say.
Forget what cars taught you. This is not anything like paint. Grinding concrete till shiny, that's what this is.
Good luck. Hope my stuff does better and looks right for you.
I have over 100 vids on RUclips, take some time to watch a few, please. There's a theme and a repeatable technique.
Get the right wheels and products and I think you'll see a glossy yellow boat soon enough.
Just recently found your videos. You’re quite the artist. Nice work.
Well thanks, feels neat to hear. There's 300+ more videos that have better audio, commentary and instruction. Feel free to look around.
Lee
Looks great but would be nice if you told us what u we’re using
I agree. Check out any of my other 300 vids, read the description to see what was used and get part numbers.
Lee
Hi Lee, just watching a couple of your videos on gelcoat, im based over in the UK so its constantly raining/cold/wet or windy lol. Im restoring a sunken Colvic Traveller 28, solid boats. I dont think its had any gelcoat work done to it in at least 7 or so years its looking sorry very smokers yellow, its meant to be white.
Id like to get it back a tad im not concerned of it going back to being bad as il try and maintain it but its on a canal so its always on the water and its expensive for a lift out.
Do you recommend any products to attack such old gelcoat? Yes its orginal 1986 gelcoat when the boat was made.
Cheers Mr J.
Hi Chris,
Welcome. There's 300+ videos that I've posted on just what you're asking. I use any of the things in my description.
I'd start with Super-Duty (if you can get it) then Heavy Cut and finally Perfect-it ex ac.
Working on the water can be a pain. Counterweight the boat to pull one side of the hull out of the water somewhat. Repeating on the other side of course.
It's a boat mate, expensive is the norm typically.
Without being there, I can't tell you what to use but I've shown through a ton of vids, how to attack various gelcoat levels of oxidation.
A wool pad is the key but a 3M pad is the best for this work. Buy 3-4 and use only the best spinning one or two. Return the rest.
Nothing is hidden in the videos. Grab a pint, some snacks and soak it up.
Cheers,
Lee
i bought my second hand boat from a company out of season and left it there until a few weeks ago i started getting it ready for the season, i am actually too embarrased to do anything with the gelcoat because when i turned up with some polish,wax, etc he just laughed,said it was just rubbish and i should do it properly with sanding and he offered there company to do it for the equivalent of 3000 dollars so i said i just want it tried,tested and in the water so i can bring it home and at the end of the season do it this way and hopefully prove him wrong, i just have to find the correct compound here in Norway :) thankyou for the video!
I will help, any way I can. Enjoy the boat, get familiar with it and then teach it that you are the boss in your off-time.
Let me know if I can help.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood brilliant thankyou! i plan on having it at home for next winter so ill be winterizing,changing oil and filters and getting the coat polished and probably any gelcoat repair so ill definately be reaching out thanks :)
I will be here. 😁👍🏼
Wet sanding sounds like an added step that you can pass on, and it is. But that added process will actually save you time in the end. It will also reduce the number of polish pads used and is a for sure process to remove defects & bonded contaminants. Remember NEVER wet sand on flake. Commonly found on bass boats, the sparkling metallic surface should not be wet sanded.
Please watch any of my more recent vids. I'm not anti-sanding just, not everyone needs it and it's way too common.
Lee
I started to compliment your set of music and I see you identified all of it...right thing to do. I really liked all of it and at a perfect volume. Your years of experience make it look easy...I'm about to find out on my newly purchased 30 year old boat that same color. I feel like I'm stealing from you.
Learning, not stealing. Subtle difference however, if you teach someone else.. Now you've tricked the universe.
Best of luck. I'll be around.
You're the only one who likes that music, or you're sarcastic. Either way, 🤣👍🏼
@@Local_Boydidgood Nope. I went straight to the first piece of music's youtube page and subscribed. It reminds me of some of the music I create. All the rest of the pieces you used were good too but the first is my favorite. I'm going to play it for my wife when she wakes up to see what she says.
Or, you really like messing with her 1st thing in the morning. LOL Well, I'm happy to hear someone likes it. I've gotten flamed for it since uploading it.
I suppose with my attitude, I shouldn't care if there are people who don't like it. Nope, don't care and now I know someone out there thought it was an interesting sound combo so I'm good.
Thanks for reaching out and saying Hi. I appreciate the moment.
You are a artist. I’d like to see the whole boat redone it’s a nice looking old boat
Thanks. Sadly, someone took it away to repower and use. It might be coming back someday.
Ok, this beats the hell out of how I restore fiberglass showers in rentals. (Using Gel-Gloss). Great info, thank you.
Gelcoat is gelcoat. 😊
PERFECT....THIS IS THE EXACT COLORS OF MY BOAT!!!...THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!!
Anytime!
Looks great. Just procured a job just like that. I guess I'll be using 3M then. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Anytime brother, good luck!
I am a new classic wooden boat restorer. I am hoping to get my hands on a fiberglass classic correct craft ski boat. I’ll be giving your techniques a try on that.
Tom
Do you ever ever buff/polish wooden bright work.
Incidentally, I have read most of your comments and dialogue. You are very genuine. Keep it up.
You can research "Plumm Duff" and the m/v Accord. These are 2 boats with various types of varnish. I have polished them for years, before I began posting videos on youtube. Generally, if the varnish or clear emron/imron are in good condition, a foam pad and some Perfect-it ex ac should be all that's required. Clean and protect with Fire Glaze or a good polish that is pH neutral to the finish.
As to a correct craft ski boat, the gelcoat tends to be very resistant to Compound, start aggressive and work your way back to Perfect-it ex ac and then use a boat "wax" for the first two seasons until the gelcoat has stabilized (stays oxidation free for a year or longer) then compound to perfection and use Fire Glaze..
I like helping if I can and the questions I receive are from people generally trying to figure this out. In the world of polishing boats, the knowledge base is coming from a paint correction background and has been so molested over 50 years that I understand their frustration. With as many boats as I've done and what I've learned, I feel a certain obligation to divulge some of what I've learned. If I can help someone enjoy their boat or a Detailer to be more efficient and make happier customers, I am honored to do so.
Thanks for the comment and your kind words.
Lee
So, I'm about to do this on my boat. I bought some cut n polish.
Should I use it or no.
I'm guessing first sweep cleans scratches. 2nd one finer. Then polish it.
Hi John. The short answers are, yes and no.
I hate to sound egocentric but watch a few more of my videos and get a sense of what I do on the regular. The red bayliner vid does not show much and I was crap with the audio so hearing me talk is difficult. I've gotten better.
Use a compound with a wool pad on a Rotary machine to get the results you want and then clean the surface, make sure it still looks the same and seal that shine in with a "wax" protection, sealant, polish, glaze... Just something made for gelcoat (no car waxes work for long)
I have some long videos, watch 2-3 of them (grab snacks and a drink, they're boring AF)
Then, after the basic ideas are underway, ask me anything.
Thanks for watching this one though, it's an attention grabber.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks Lee. Will do.
Good luck brother..
I just bought an older Key West with pretty heavy oxidization. Going to try this method. Should I peel the old decals off of it or just polish right over them? Thanks!
It all depends on what you want. I pull decals from boats because of a few reasons. Firstly I think people who engineered votes did a really good job at designing the shape and flow of lines that a boat has. And while I admit sometimes some decals seem to accentuate those lines, generally they do it in a very dated and not timely manner. My personal preference is to yank every decal and every emblem off of every boat so that what I'm left with is just a pure canvas of gelcoat that I can polish up. It is specifically in your choice. If however you do find that you remove the decals, just understand that there will be some artifacts of those decals in your gel coat that you will have to grind on to remove. If this is your first time compounding a boat, perhaps we'll leave the details where they are and see if you like the results of the work that you do. If you're happy with those results by all means the next time you do this to your boat hold the decals and have some fun. These are just suggestions it's just what I would do you ask a question and I thought I would answer as honestly as I could. If you need any advice I will be here. Thank you for watching thank you for your question good luck.
@@Local_Boydidgood Yeah, this is my first go with this, I'll probably just leave them on and see how good I can get it looking. Thanks so much for the reply!
Anytime brother. Good luck.
boat looks beautiful bro. great job.
Thanks. She came out ok for an old girl.
hey brother would you recommend using a micro fiber pad to use for compound? Also do you have a video on how to prep a boat especially red color before adding compound to remove oxidation?
Hi. If I'm compounding, no prep needed for the surface. No sand, no seashells and go! No, microfiber pads are not nearly as strong as wool.
Looks great. Is there a way to tell that there is a shine hiding underneath the oxidation? Just bought a little skiff that looks about like yours but not sure there is a nice finish like yours waiting to be brought back.
Hi, thanks. This was just a demo. To answer your question, as long as you don't see a primer or fiberglass weave, you should be good, if there's enough gelcoat to oxidize but retain color, grind away.
If it's thin, you'll learn quickly but it's rare for gelcoat to not be able to be brought back.
I have about 300+ vids, keep watching to get a good idea of how this goes they are much better at showing the process and the audio doesn't suck so much.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for the reply! watching some of your vids now, a wealth of info, and obviously you've done a ton of boats. Nice of you to share the knowledge.
I appreciate the appreciation, thanks. 'bout to have 20 years in this, figured I'd let folks see the Wetsanding alternative.
Lee
ok, I bought everything, did everything and my 96 cajun bass boat shines like glass.
Now, How do I maintain it so I Never have to Heavy cut it again ??
Fists, congrats and, you're welcome. 2nd. I assume you also cleaned it well before waxing it with one of the waxes I suggest in the description. Now, every few months, spray and wipe it with 303 aerospace protectant or a good polymer spray "deataile/wax". Keep the boat clean, don't let water spots form and make sure to cover it when you can. The sun, dirt and the weather can all degrade the protective layer you apply. Don't use a ceramic on a boat older than 2-3 years old.
@@Local_Boydidgood
I forgot say Thank you.
I've tried it All, bought it All. Even used furniture polish ( I know, I know )
But after watching the magic you do with heavy cut.
Honestly. She's never looked or felt better.
Thanks for all the tips Lee.
Keep up the good work. 👍
Lol, that's OK, I'm a dick and reminfmded you.
I'm actually really haolppy to hear about your success, seriously. Thanks for letting me know.
In all honesty, a badly oxidized boat might get hit once to get it right and then another few times but then you're good if you can keep it up. If done right, you can expect to never use Super-Duty again but you might need heavy cut once or twice and then Perfect-it ex ac but the time between now and then you can keep it going with a spray detailer. They work as stop-gaps and if used before your protection lets go. If you're on top of it, you can avoid buffing her again for years. Most people wait too long between maintenance.
Sorry for busting your chops.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood
No worries at all, she's a purple and black metal flake. Finish wasn't shot but the top side was oxidized.
It took me all of a day, but I'm happy with the results. Thanks and for all the insight.
Anytime brother, any time.
Buffing will not always cut it, you may get a beautiful shine but it doesn't always cut into the oxidation depending on how deep it is. If not cut deep enough it'll come back & maybe soon.
This boat here basically looks the same over a year later.
Most people don't buff right so, you can be right there.
@@Local_Boydidgood ....... If you're into a year, you're good. That means the oxidation wasn't deep, if so, it would've shown by now.
I was detailing a Black 28' COBALT. It was extremely oxidized. I compunded one side of the boat & it was beautiful & shiny, polar opposite.
😂 😢....... I came back the next morning & it was white again. The oxidation was that deep in the gelcoat. I had to wetsand 800 & 1000 grit & then compound, polish & wax. COBALTS & MONTEREY'S oxidized terribly.
I think there's a few boats that have come back a year later, that I have videos of.
I'm not down for hiding anything. I'm all about grinding till correct and then locking it in.
Most people get fooled by the oils in either the compound or wax. I always wash the boat after compounding to make sure it looks right. If I see any issues, I compound them out, wash again and then lock it in.
ruclips.net/video/DWOGRlmnkvc/видео.html
And this is 3-4 months after all that;
ruclips.net/video/AjGDFAYy6SY/видео.html
@@Local_Boydidgood ...... Damn good work. I wish you & your family the best!
Same to you brother! Make '22 a good one.
What works to get faded black paint off the bottom of the hull? Re paint it?
Any way you do it, you'll want eye and lung protection.
Last time we did this on our boat, we hauled it out and began power sanding it down to gelcoat. We then layered up 2 coats of 'Hullspeed' bottom paint. That's lasted a really long time, I've seen my old boat in the last year and the bottom paint is mostly there after 7-8 years.
If just the sides are bad, scuff them up with some rough sandpaper, clean/dry then yes re-paint.
Try to catch the debris in a tarp or water trap. Preferably do this at a real boat yard and help keep lakes and rivers clean-ish. You can not remain clean and do this work. I would only have done it for our own boat. I'd pay someone to do it next time.
Added bonus: when repainting, scuff and clean up above the old (pre measured waterline and go up from that by 2 inches (about just the length of a thumb) You'll enjoy cleaning less buildup along the waterline this season.
I'm no expert, youtube is full of them. Good luck, thanks for watching.
Lee
I like to start with 3M super heavy compound and then go to the Perfect It Line on really bad gel coat. But, a good wool pad, the right tool, 3M Perfect It, and good technique will get these results. The right buffer is key. I love my Flex tools. Yeah, they were super costly, but I love the way they work and feel cutting my work by a 1/3.
Hi, I agree, the trick isn't tools or products. You might try the yellow/black. I helped design the DeWalt DWP849X. Out of 17 improvements specifically for gelcoat use, they took 14. and I've all the rest, even flex tools. I find them great for cars or smaller boats that are in good condition. Nothing lasts like the DeWalt. I push harder and longer than anyone I've ever seen with this style of tool and I'm on my 5th year on one tool. 3 on another backup buffer.
I've used super duty 2-3 times in 15 years. It definitely has a place but it's horrible for your health and so messy. Try the heavy-cut. It will take an extra turn or two on really bad surfaces but finishes much better. It gets you to where the Perfect it, can be more effective, more quickly. The trade off should be to your liking.
Thanks for the comment. These are just my opinions. Everyone has their own style. As long as the end results are the same, cool!
Thanks for watching.
Awesome video thank you for sharing your secret and technique. Ric
Thanks Ric. I appreciate the kind words. Being fair, the video is kind of raw and has horrible audio. I think it was one of my worst. I have about 300+ more that I think do a better job of showing how all this works. I'm glad you liked this one but my guess is, you'll learn more through some of the other ones.
My best,
Lee
OK. Great to know. I think there's a misconception on the part of many boat detailers that there's an infinite amount of gelcoat that one can comfortably grind through. From my perspective - as an automotive paint guy (historically anyway) - there's an increased amount of mystery (i.e., risk) when correcting gelcoat, especially on an older boat that has had multiple owners. I won't work on a car until I've thoroughly assessed the depth, condition and history of the paint. That's tougher to do with most boats, hence the need for even more caution when considering whether or not to sand. So I like your philosophy.
There's a "paint gague" for gelcoat/fiberglass/paint but it's $3,500 so, I tend to accept the risk equally with the owners. I mention the age and possibly going through but it's happened about once a year, out of about 150 boats.
I choose to not fear that. I know it's a great time to suggest a respray of paint or gelcoat or a vinyl wrap. I don't see helping a boater overcome a thing like thin gelcoat, stop them from enjoying their boat. I show them alternatives.
We always start with the lightest stuff 1st but gelcoat is 20 times thicker than paint and marine paint is very resilient and easy to keep up without grinding.
Getting a customer to come in every 6 months (needed or not) for a wax is better than waiting to see oxidation before they call, I hate that.
I agree. It’s always good to be mindful of the potential for problems, but having an honest chat with the customer is a must. You can’t be paralyzed by the fear of messing up, although a tiny bit of fear isn’t unhealthy either.
I find a good detailer is a bit cocky but if they're actually good, I easily allow it.
Lee
Hi, I am in Titusville Fl. What is the best way I can almost lol take your class? Any way? Or do I just need to watch all of your videos? If you have an online way I am willing to pay! Please let me know thank you much! Hope to hear from you soon. Thanks for your videos and awesome work!
We connected. 😊
Thought I stumbled across an old video of Dax Shepard but all jokes aside this video is going to help me a lot with working on my hull this off season! Thanks!
Well, I appreciate the kind words. I have about 300 more videos for you to watch if you're really interested. This was just a demo.
Lee quick question, whats the difference between the heavy cut and super cut? Now on to the peanut gallery, you guys need to observe and listen to this guy, I wanted a wet look new finish on a 23yo cobia when i was finished , so i went down the buy this, buy that route, i bought a polisher, DA, wet sand, multi step compounds, wool, foam and was even thinking about a forced rotation buffer.. then i found lee's video, i originally listened to the morons at west marine pumping their garbage product that didnt work, so I bit the bullet and went for 3m, i was only able to find the 3m super duty locally, clench them cheeks boys and girls its $60 qt, this shit aint cheap, but i already spent over $100 on the worthless shit above from harbor freight and west marine, i just started my boat and lee's technique is working like a charm,, ive got the wet look that i was looking for with less than half the effort. Most of these videos you see on you tube are designed to sell you something, keep that in mind. To me Theres no school like old school, if something works, go with it, theres no need to re invent the wheel, wich is what alot of these videos are trying to do,, im 60yo and was told this a long time a go about business when i first started out in the dive industry,, "Create the Demand and then supply the product" thats exactly what these videos are doing, they try to make you believe their way is the newest, best and only way that works..thats simply not true, Listen to Lee.. oh btw , Im dealing with a south fla boat that heavily oxidized..
Wow.. Thanks, I'm still smiling.
Super-Duty is diesel fuel and gravel that breaks down to a point and then it's just small sand. Heavy Cut has a reducing particle that eventually has a reducing molecule..it'll reduce to almost Perfect-it ex ac.
Super-Duty is my shotgun, Heavy Cut is my stiletto and Perfect-it ex ac is a scalpel.
My best and thanks again for the "peanut gallery" part, that was cool.
Lee
Wow! I watched a friend wet sand his 30 year boat and thought, "There's got to be a better way." Thanks for showing me there is before I tackle my 26 year old boat. One question, what is the reasoning of starting at a lower RPM and then going up? Thanks again!
Just stay slow, speed kills.
Glad you found this too. Hope it helps.
Can say for sure this works a treat. Right compounds, right pads and right technique. I transformed my 37ft blue hulled J110 from oxidised mare to beauty.😊
Nice! There ya go! I appreciate your comment, thanks!
Lee
will this work on ghost stripes too ? I removed some old decal swoohes from the sides and the gelcoat is darker underneath where they were, want it all to match... thanks
You determine that. With some time, yes. With some effort, yes. You can sand it down if needed. Super-Duty should be able to make a dent and Heavy cut should bring it all together after a bit. Every time you buff it, they'll get better.
After cutting what was the second 3m product finesse ? Have you tried the whole line of 3m gel coat polishing or their wax ? Love the work an the idgaf attitude keep it up
I hate any 2-in-one or a wax added to a cutting agent. It's imporethat the bond between your final protection and the boat be good and strong. Applying a "wax" over a freshly compounded surface, unless squeeky clean to the touch, the polish or wax is mixed with cutting molecules, they're still on the surface, hidden in the wax..
Better to not buy all the 3M line and just use one compound (possibly 2 on bad boats. Here Perfect-it ex ac or heavy-cut followed by Meguiar's Flagship)
Thanks very much for the kind words. My pleasure.
Just making sure I heard and read some of your comments on other vids you take the wax off with fine pad for the supreme shine ? Do you put meguirees on with rotary thanks for reply
I sometimes call Perfect-it, Finess-it. I'm better now but, sorry.
I'll apply the wax with a Terry cloth rag typically unless I'm going for an outstanding shine or on dark gelcoat, I'll apply the wax to a soft pad on a dual-action or random orbital buffer. Spread it. Grab a new soft pad and remove it.
I was wondering if you have time to do my boat. I also live in Washington and would like to have my boat done. I see you do great work.
I appreciate the kind words on the work. Bring her to Chelan and I'm game. I don't drive for work anymore. If you're in the 206 there's a guy over there I like the work of and his work ethic is on point. You can find his contact info in my youtube channel's "about me" section.
@@Local_Boydidgood I couldn't find any info on your company or the one in the 206 in the about me section, are you still in the biz?
I'm in Chelan.
Will this process work well on aluminum boats, too. i recently purchased an Alumacraft that was stored in a lean-to shed for years before I began its life stored indoors unless on the water.
ruclips.net/video/QrF-McBOEHQ/видео.html
This video would be a better choice. You can try but aluminum is a whole different beast, like paint is a different beast.
Tell him I said Hi. And luck. Sorry I can't offer you more.
I been Doing more & more boats lately , your video gave me a huje insight as to how yo really grab more Shine , I use 800/ 1200/ 2500 grit then 3D #1 with a Wool pad after , then Lake Countries yellow pad with Cherry wax for a Great shine...
Your videos Rock bro from The Inland Empire Ca ...
Thanks. I'm glad you found a process that works for you. I also know that sanding before compounding can be a good process. I don't push it but I'm pushing a faster path, not better for some but for most people.
Thanks for the comment and I appreciate your support truly.
If you want a good wax, Fire Glaze is legitimately the best stuff I've ever used. If you can get to perfection, just try it. It'll blow your mind. (works on cars too)
What a great video! I have a 17 foot 1984 chris craft that I need to put some love on. It's been baking for many years now in the sun. After you cut do you recommend any kind of sealer or protectant?
Audio was a little challenging....are you applying wax at min 15:00?
I'm not sure when but sure. I have lots of videos that can answer any questions you might have. Grinding gelcoat to submitting is my gig.
ruclips.net/video/dJT5EqX5cb4/видео.html
(just to inspire you)
Keep watching my vids, they all cover what I use in some way and how to best protect the boat. Yours requires a lot (not being mean) if it's really dry. Good luck. Thanks for taking the time to watch it.
Meguiar's Flagship liquid wax, 3m's liquid wax with scotchguard, pro polish by Shurehold. In my opinion, the best off the shelf stuff you can buy but you have to watch more of my vids to learn the how and why of when to do things and then, worry about the protecting.
This video was a demo, a "proof of concept" for the doubters out there that only sand boats. It wasn't intended to be a "how-to". Watch my longer vids for that or attend a class and go home and kill that CC, make it your boat again.
No matter what you do (as not me;bragging a bit) the shine will fade eventually. Old neglected gelcoat hides it's decay deep. Unless you go super deep and pull off all the oxidation, you can expect to do this whole thing again in 6-8 months to a year. Still WAY easier than sanding but, on a 17' boat not terrible if it's your baby. Then, once you have a decent layer of gelcoat to work with, use what I do to polish her to jewel level and keep her looking that way easily with a yearly or every 6 months, wiping her down with a good sealant/wax.
Sorry for the short answer earlier. I was driving and shot you a blurb at a fuel station.
Looking Great 👍 👌 😀 What a difference 👏 👌
And, 2 seasons later, still shiny. Thanks!
Bunch of boat in Utah could use this. Killer work looks good.
They all suffer the syndrome. Thanks!
I'm in Beaver today! (almost, driving still) but I plan on being in Beaver for a few days. 😉 Double meanings are awesome!
for beginners,how to start learning like what you did on this video?thank you
Watch more videos (there's like 200+), buy a cheap boat and practice, practice and practice.
Just amazing results.
I get lucky sometime., thanks
@@Local_Boydidgood lucky scores too
😁👍🏼
So much said with few words but effective. It gives me hope for my 1984 procraft that I don’t know when or if it was ever buffed or polished. Used to be candy apple red metallic flake. Now looks like root beer🤣😂
Do I even stand a chance.
I DO NOT WANT TO WET SAND IT OVER AND OVER AND OVER.
you get.
Thanks for some inspiration and knowledge.
Your comments please.
Try super duty or Heavy cut by 3M.
I don't even remember the 2 boats in 15 years I couldn't bring back.
Good wool pads and patience. Let the products do the work.
Procrafts use good gelcoat. Right underneath all that chalk is your boat, I dare you to prove me wrong!
Any vid I have past 15 minutes will have some "how-to" words. Sometimes, I just like letting the work, do the work of talking for me.
Happy to hear that I reached someone and possibly helped.
Hi Lee, I have a boat with red gelcoat and is in the same condition as your training Bayliner, I've currently tried a couple of test areas with a dewalt rotary polisher a wool pad and 3m heavy cut but I don't see the pad turning red as material is removed , any thoughts please. Really enjoy watching your skill and professionalism. Cheers Simon in the UK.
It might not turn red. Look at the surface of the boat and don't worry about the pad. What's the surface look like after heavy cut?
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Oxidation has gone but looks like dirty marks in the gel coat under a glazed shine, and is a different colour to the original colour that was behind the outboard .
Do it again. It sounds like you need to go harder. Chances are, your oxidized gelcoat wasn't at all like what you saw in this video.
Color changes and you might never see it the same again. Exposed gelcoat Vs what's around an outboard will be different for a few reasons (all time related)
Try Super Duty and cleave off the top of the gelcoat. Then try Heavy Cut.
You might contact a local detailing company to give you a quote or just let them get you to a place where you can maintain your boat from then on.
I can't diagnose your problem from here.
I'm thinking about starting my own business but a little afraid to what should I do people seem to love the way I do there boats,
Come to Chelan WA and take my class 1st, then read a ton of material online to learn how to market and run a small business efficiently. Then make money.
If you're washing 42 boats a year, twice a month, you'll clear $100k. Add waxing once every 6 months and start hiring good people, training good people and never look back.
Last year I was with my previous company, we grossed over $700k but it took 13 years to get there. 1st year was $145k so there's a bit of an idea of what's possible if you're motivated and people like your work.
I say stop working for others and do what is best for you and yours. My time, is my time. I decide who my customers are and who isn't. I charge what I feel I'm worth and get to do anything I need to do outside of work, when I want to.
Don't fear the rope (being your own boss) that's what the safety net (other jobs) is for, to catch you if you fail. You probably won't. Just be great at what you do and failure is never an option.
So did you just use the heavy, then to the 06085, then just hit it with a bare pad?
Heavy-cut to perfect it ex ac. No bare pads.
From heavy cut strait to polish and then wax?
Watch more of my vids. This was one boat out of millions, they're all different.
Lee
Fantastic video!
Audio is screwy but thanks. The rest are better in my opinion. Cheers!
I’ve been detailing for years. One guy who taught me how to do boats taught me to use a water spray bottle and sprits light over decals. So this tripped me out to see that’s it’s really not needed
Sadly, I see lots of stuff used because someone told someone how to do it. I started out just like you, listening to what people told me but within a few years, I just went my own way.
I use 3M compounds in ways they don't even understand. To get Super-Duty to finish to a swirl-free finish Heavy Cut is easier as is Perfect-it ex ac but if you had told me that was possible 13 years ago, I'd have said you were crazy. If I hadn't seen it, I just wouldn't have believed it.
I'm just trying to show people, there's more than just what the last generation had going for it.
Glad you found this, there's about 200 more vids and some of them might get you to the same spot this one did, opening to new ideas.
Thanks for the comment.
Hello Lee, Just found your video, about to start to polish a boat for the first time i a couple of weeks. Whats the brand of the big pad that you use both sides on? And whats that tool you use to clean the pad before you start? Bregards from Sweden :)
Hi,
I use a few different kinds. Check out the description for part #'s. The spur is called a "spur tool." You can find them where paint supplies are sold (automobile paint)
Good luck.. Lycka till och tack!
Lee
Your are making it look so easy ! What machine are you using? Da Walt ? And did you run 3m heavy cut and what was the 2nd Polish that you used that went over that decal so great ! Thank you for sharing the knowledge!
Thanks, took me 10 years to figure this out and another 5 to perfect it.
Glad you're watching, I appreciate it.
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Dewalt DWP849X
Heavy-cut and perfect-it ex ac rubbing compound by 3M
I found a way to let the compound, pad and machine do almost all the work. Easier on my old elbows and shoulders. 😊
I'm having trouble with my 87 formula. It's red and very pink. Where I peeled the old stickers off, exposing the unharmed paint, it's almost like you can feel the difference with your finger, like the paint on the hull wore down. I tried buffing it out with 3m heavy cut and a wool pad with no luck. It cleaned up a bit, but didn't bring any color back. Any advice?
Hi.
The decals covered your gelcoat for a long time (although, you said paint and I've seen some painted formulas from that era..) As the rest of the surface was eaten away by boat washes, polishing and time exposed, what was underneath stayed relatively stable and never wore down.
You can almost always get the surface difference between where a decal was and the rest of the boat with Heavy Cut by 3M but never really fully even and flush, not on your 1st passes at least. If you buff the boat year after year, that will minimize but some people just want it gone. The best way is to block sand it smooth and then buff it (in my opinion) This will level the surface and while doing so, you might find that the color around the decal's old home, has that color you wanted to see. Sometimes however, on older paint, that's now the color. From '87, at almost 30, it's acceptable to show some age.
As to your gelcoat (if it is)
You can try Super-Duty to get through the oxidized surface to color and a shine however, Heavy Cut can usually get you there with less mess and just takes a bit longer but finishes much nicer. I apologize, without being there, difficult for me to assess your boat from here.
If you were standing near me, I'd say try again, try harder, try longer, make sure you're using a 3M wool pad meant for compounding.
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 (3 year polish)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
@@Local_Boydidgood great info, thank you. The stripe decals were towards the top, and im not too concerned about leveling the paint, I was just worried it was maybe worn too thin, but I suppose that's normal. It's just very hard getting any color to come back. I'm gunna try those new 3m pads but am noconvoced it's going to do well. We shall see
I can't tell you how many times I hear this, until a 3M pad is used and then we'll see. I have faith. Most pads out there, even wool, are too soft and gentle. You need a shotgun (analogous usage)
Come tell us what you get when you have a decent pad.
Good luck.
Thankyou for this video. Im about to do this on my 1992 Sunbird. You dont happen to know where i could find the trim covering the channels of the windows? Looks like same as yours.
Hi, this isn't my boat so as far as where to buy parts.. Google? I'm sure there are a few places out there that carry replacement parts or New Old Stock (NOS) parts.
Good luck on your boat, glad this video helped.
Lee
Thank you for sharing all your experience, i been watching your videos for about 2 hrs, can you please tell me the speed that I need to used on the different compounds. Thank you
Slow. Lento. If you watch enough of my videos, you'll find some where I talk about speeds. Slow works and is safe.
If, after some years, you want to go faster because you've learned your skills well, go ahead.
Will do. Thank you again!!
Anytime.
What are the compounds .?
In the description. Thanks for watching
Nice video....so how do you polish decals ???
Thanks. Depends on the decal. In this video, I just went over them as if they weren't there. Sometimes you mask them off, sometimes you just don't worry about it.
Here's a vid (I have plenty more) of me going over decals.
ruclips.net/video/Flh_5N__oeQ/видео.html
What product you use to get rid of oxidation probably work good on a vehicle too I have foam pads and other pads already I rather use my da polisher than the rotary used it again on my truck and it burned through the paint but gonna paint it again this year anyway again.
What kind of wool pad do you use too.
I use a double-sided wool compounding pad by 3m. Either screw in or quick connect.
If you read the description, you can usually see in my vids, a list of the crap ai use.
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with
Ok Lee. So how much sanding do you actually do, and at what point do you consider it necessary?
I’m also interested in your thoughts on machine speed. I know it’s not an exact science, but can you offer any guidelines?
I don't sand. Never have, probably never will. If I ponder sanding, I call my friend Super-duty by 3M and never look back.
ruclips.net/video/M7m3-6FdPaA/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/VlJCwSxfrfI/видео.html
Is yours worse? These were 2 of the worst from last season. They both still look great. No Sanding.
Running slow is as effective as running fast but as I have more boats behind each one I do, I go fast where I can. Swirls love speed. Speed is dangerous for the unfamiliar. I'd stay slow until you feel like you are ready.
Thanks Lee. I appreciate it.
Anytime.
A foam pad can not go fast if you are thinking of using one. Wool can but you need a well balanced pad (no vibration at all) I return 4 pads out if 9 and replace them with better pads if possible. All my pads spin without oscillating. This is how I can compound fast without swirls. If I had a wobbly pad, slow would work and fast would ruin your boat's reflection with swirls.
Up until 5 years ago, I went slow and achieved perfection that way. By that time, I'd been buffing for 10 years and feared the speed.
Speed only works on flat surfaces, not rounded (smaller surface than the pad (minus 2"- edges hardly ever touch the surface unless you edge the buffer.
Basically, the compound uses the weight of the buffer to work. More and you risk swirls and burning, too little and you'll scratch the surface with the grit from the compound. There needs to be something pressing the fibers down onto the boat but not too much.
That’s a lot of great info. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Your comment about foam pads peaked my interest. My background is auto paint correction, so foam (and microfibre) are it for me. I’m going to start doing some boat work and had hoped to get by (initially anyway) with some heavy cut foam pads paired with a forced rotation DA (Flex 3401), but it looks like I’ll need a rotary as my primary tool. Thanks again Lee.
Gelcoat Boats like wool. Cars and marine paints like foam. Odd I know but it works out that way typically. Too much heat gets built up on gelcoat when really grinding hard w/foam.
Lee
I have two spots on a bass boat I am doing that looks oxidized but I’ll be damn if I can get it out. I’ve tried all the way to 600. Stopped afraid I would start to silver the flake. I usually use 3M heavy then perfect it then wax and polish. Any idea what I could try. It’s very noticeable when the rest is glassing out so well. Too bad I couldn’t send a picture.
You can try heavy cut again but this time, spread it out, put your wheel up on an edge and allow it to spin and move either to the right or left (depending on the section) very slowly. Allow the grit to have a moment with the spot. No real pressure, more slow moving and time of wheel on gelcoat. Don't let it spin in one area but move it at a snail's pace across the section and then see if you have a gloss.
Sometimes, I cannot get every part to shine either. It sucks.
Add decals!?
Sorry man, that's all I got from here, blind.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks brother. Yeah what’s weird is one direction you look say from port to nose it looks fine. Look nose to port and it looks like chalk. I went at it again today for a while and nothing. It’s almost like there silver flake was layer down in one direction. Causing somewhat of an optical illusion that it looks faded but isn’t. Lol
You can always try some sand paper. Watch some videos on Wetsanding. I know nothing about the process.
Sometimes flake lays in strange ways. I hope you get through it and get to a pretty boat.
This is great! Any tips for bringing back oxidized non skid deck??
You can use a stiff bristle brush (or a stiff bristle pad for a random orbital buffer), work in an aggressive Cleaner Wax and wipe it off with a microfiber towel or use a gritty rubbing compound and a rotary buffer with a wool pad. Clean and wax with something not so slippery as "wax". Woody's wax and some stuff made for Non-skid would be good choices.
ruclips.net/video/kx0xZA8Cg6M/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/VcPB4kwy7w0/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/kIi3DG0ONgI/видео.html
These vids might help.
ceramic coating on the deck? anyway great video. thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I'm not a fan of ceramics on an older boat at all. I was asked to do it to demonstrate how they fail.
Thanks for the comment. My pleasure.
Lee, My name is Lee also, What machine you suggest for a beginner removing oxidation off the boat that I own? What products did you use? I am in the coastal Carolinas and can't get to you. I have that similar color red Hurricane boat with the same issue
Hi Lee (that feels weird. Lol)
Dewalt DWP849X
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Will this work for metal flake gel coats as well?
Depending on how much is left. I've heard sanding the surface lightly 1st is best if the flake can be felt with your hand (bumpy and catchy)
Do a test spot but it all depends on how much is left to work with.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I have a 1988 bassboat with a red metal flake top cap. In the garage, it looks like a million dollars. On a cloudy day, it looks like a million dollars. When I am on the water, it looks like a million dollars until the sun hits it a just the right angle. Then you can see a cloudiness in some areas. Its like the gelcoat has something in it under the surface. I don't feel any flake coming through and I have used lots of different compounds on it including the 3m heavy cut which I read will remove 800 grit scratches. Maybe I am running the wrong speed. What rpm should the wool pad be run on the rotary? Is there a point where wet sanding is the only option or is there something even more aggressive than the 3m heavy?
You should use (only because they're the most aggressive) 3M pads. Slow works fine, friction heat isn't required or wanted.
Keep updating me.
Lee
I'm late to the party but any idea where I can pick up these products In Canada/Saskatchewan And I'll have to watch again. Blew threw it and not sure of the order of operation. Thanks for the help BTW
It's ok, there's about 200 videos like this in my Playlist marked "boats N stuff"
As to where you can locate them.. Sorry man, no clue but the Google machine.
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Thanks for the reply. Do I use all three of those compounds in that order or just any one of those three that I can get?
Start with Perfect-it ex ac and see if that gets you to where you want to be. If not, Heavy Cut and if not, Super-Duty but if so, follow with Perfect-it ex ac and then clean, inspect and wax.
@@Local_Boydidgood excellent. Thanks for your time. I feel good about this
Well, now, so do I. Good luck. I'm here if you get stuck.
I am working on a boat and I feel like the blue is faded I have shine its just not the same colors as under the stickers. What Dewalt are you using?
DWP849X.
I've seen this. Try going more aggressive in the earlier passes and really grind on the surface to get down to pigment that hasn't bleached out. Apply the "wax" thicker than normal and let it sit a bit, possibly repeat.
Good luck.
@Local boydidgood thank you for the response. I am using a Flex DA with wool how fast do I want be cutting when really pressing into it? Also should I use a deoxidizer at all?
If you have bad, deep oxidation, a DA will be most effective with sandpaper. You can get a rubbing compound on a wool pad and a DA but you'll have to be there for a long time @ high speeds with decent pressure. I feel like you need a rotary or some sanding disks. I hate to toss out a challenge but rotary works harder. Look for one used online. Dewalt, porter cable, makita...
A DA can bring back a shine but takes forever to get a glossy mirror like finish with deep oxidation.
@@Local_Boydidgood thank you!!!!
@Local boydidgood the solution for the boat im workin on is it needs to be wet sanded. But I got good practice with the buffer!
What product did you use on the white Gel coat on that old Red / White Bayliner? I have a 1990 Bayliner Avanti 3555. It's Gray and white and the white is being difficult. Jim
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
@@Local_Boydidgood I think the product I have been using may be the problem. It is what was Formally Reel Shine now Starke Yacht Care Products. They seemed ok but I will switch to 3M. I was wondering if you had any comments on Starke Products. The sealer or wax seemed to work very good.Thank you so much
I haven't tried any to this point. If you like it, stay with it. I'm not selling anything here.
So slow to cut fast to polish?
What speed did you srart at ? I started detailing boats a month ago and was taught to use 1400 rpm all the way we use the 3m products you are using
Whoever taught you that isn't worried about swirls. Go 600. If you try to do what I do, you're going to hurt either the boat or yourself. Watch this for an example of why it doesn't matter really, what speed you go, it doesn't save time usually. The results will be better if you go slow. I go fast because nobody on youtube can do this in the sun to a swirl-free finish, none of the "experts".
ruclips.net/video/ky-qHYzJlo4/видео.html
If, if you get really good and confident, you can do what I do but there's no need.
Go slow.
What RPMs are you using initially and how high do you go when you have the compound spread evenly and not flying all over the place.
Full slow and full speed.
Sad to think someone would let a boat go to waste like that. It takes someone who can see the potential to bring something so neglected back to its glory. I do cars all the time like this and it pays good. Heck I can make a $1000.00 in a day by just detailing a rig someone was to lazy to take care of. Nice work!
That right there is the power of a good detailer. I agree.
Have a 2009 Yamaha 232 Limited S that doesn't have oxidation. So, I don't need to do anything besides waxit every six months, right?
Sounds like a great plan. 303 aerospace protectant would do well for you. Meguiar's Flagship or 3m's liquid wax w/scotchguard. Shoot for every 3-4 months and double-down on that assurance. No need to tempt your boat to mess up your plans, that's all she wants to do and you know it. 😉
Watched every second of the video without needing a drink lol. I ordered the Dewalt and the first 3M product but wondering why the switch after the first section ? What's the difference between the first and the 06085 ?
Should I choose one over the other depending on my issues ? Or use both ?
Just a demo, I use both because some boats will need either or both. This is just an example of what can be done/expected if either product is used.
If you don't know what you'll need? Have both ready to be used.
Glad you didn't dehydrate.
Typically I use the following:
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
I just finished watching the 32min Blue Bayliner video and it turned out great. I've never been a fan of wet sanding though I don't understand it all but your method just seems so much more practical plus I'm watching you guys do it without a lot of cut between parts if any.
I don't expect your type of outcome as you've got way more experience so if I can just get a 10th of it I would be happy lol. Thanks
I've had 16 year old girls, 72 year old women and men in their upper 70's get this from watching the videos. I get pics and vids a few times a week, from folks who just watched and watched and watched. At some point, the core concept hits you and bam, you're buffing like a champ.
Spread, edges, cross-cut your middles and smooth out till almost gone (the compound) and the oxidation. Clean, inspect, lock that shine in.
I'm sure you can do it. I have like 200+ vids and many of them are just boring, "here's what I do" vids.
I just bought the 05954 from O'REILLYs and have the other two coming from Amazon today, so tell 3M you making them money 💰 hahaha
My Dewalt won't be here until tomorrow but I do have a cheap one that I will try just to get this out of my system until then.
I just purchased a 21fter that has bad oxidation in red, just like this video. I'm super excited and I will NOT blame anyone if I can't get it looking like yours. I just needed a starting point and like mentioned before, I'm not a wet sand fan....
I wish they allowed you to attach pics on RUclips comments...... really appreciate your help and have already started sharing your channel
I appreciate that, thanks. I'll be here if you need a pointer.
Good idea about posting pics to comments.
3m Harvey cut compound ? I’m guessing… looks great 👍🏼
3M heavy cut compound I meant to say not the Harvey cut LOL
Could you list the 2nd bottle or the products you just used I didn’t see the polish . I use 3m finesse but it look like different writing
Finess-it is a polishing compound, for AFTER (not yelling really but emphasizing) compound has brought a shine up.
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Dewalt DWP849X
Super Duty rubbing compound by 3M
Heavy-cut by 3M
&
Perfect-it ex ac by 3M (the last pllishing/shining product you should use on gelcoat if done correctly, right before the wash/inspect and the wax/polosh/sealant
www.restructuremarine.com/
Have you ever heard of mixing baby oil In with the polish. I’ve never tried it but I know in another video you mention a secret was wondering if that was it or if it’s any good
Dumbest thing I ever saw on youtube. (one of) Not your comment but using baby oil. I've seen transmission oil used too.
So, heavy compound. Then perfect it and done? Or finish it off with a finishing wax like maguires flagship? Or a different brand?
I think in that vid, just 1 compound (I forget) if you use any compound the way I do, get a result you like, clean it and any polymer-based product to lock in the shine.
All the work (surface finishing) is done with compound, flagship just seals.
@@Local_Boydidgood less steps sound good to me. Especially at $60 a bottle. Lol
Do you have a certain polymer based product you like?
Flagship, Jasper's, pro polish, restructure marine polish, 3m's liquid wax.. I trust them (except Jasper's, too young a product for me to fully trust) there's others out there but these almost always make me smile
@@viperfanatic13 it was Heavy-cut and then perfect-it ac ex, sorry. Lots of boats between then and now. I'm old, and forget the details sometimes.
No compound worth a damn has a sealant built in. Meguiar's #67 claims it does, nope. Call them and confirm for yourself if needed. The sealant/wax/polish used isn't expected to polish anything on my boats. I do it with the compound.
Hey man I’ve got a few questions... I’ve used a few different cutting compounds and polish on my gel coat it will look great or somewhat anyways for a week or so and the oxidation will come right back? I’m not sure why or how but I’m curious lol.. What products did you use in this video?
It doesn't matter what I use. Every boat is different. You can use clay dirt and dust in water (seriously, I've seen it but don't recommend it) on a wheel and remove oxidation.
I'd suggest going until the surface looks great after it's cleaned and inspected.
Then, use a bespoke marine polish/wax/sealant. Don't use a car wax on a boat.
Apply evenly (perhaps thicker this time) let dry (a tad longer) and buff off (slowly)
If it fades in a week due to sun (you can see one side looking better, in the shade) then you didn't get the oxidation out and you didn't saturate the gelcoat with wax.
I'm not going to be able to diagnose what's going on with your boat from here but it all comes down to getting through the oxidation, not just hiding it with oils in compounds like Menzerna, Meguiar's #67 or 91... Very oily and they hide some stuff.
3m perfect-it AC-Ex is a good compound. Flagship by Meguiar's or 3M's liquid "wax" also last a while.
Pics would help.
Alwayswithacoke@hotmail.com
If a boat is really bad, it can have oxidation throughout the gelcoat layer. If this is the case, paint or a vinyl wrap are Great alternatives to propping up a failing surface.
I’ll send you some pics tomorrow thank you for the info I’m gonna order some 3M
One more thought: if you compound and like the results, do it again. I do this all the time. I'll think "I got it!" but knowing I've been fooled before, I do another pass and figure I got it then.
Gelcoat is a trickster. It isn't like paint or metal, it has phases it goes through from day to day.
What compounds? What polishes?
@@Local_Boydidgood turtle wax rubbing compound a few different kinds and nu finish on the polish
After watching a lot of your videos I starting working on my extremely oxidated boat. It’s going well thanks to your videos. My question is Should a white gel coat reflect as much as one with color? My boat is completely white so I have nothing to compare it to. I’m figuring without pigment the image won’t reflect as well?
You're correct, dark gelcoat appears to reflect more. It's an illusion. It's one of the reasons I only do correction/perfecting of gelcoat in either a shop with bright lights or in direct sunlight. You can still achieve a high gloss and it should look like wet, white paint when perfect. You won't see the detail in the reflection as much because the white color reflects so much overall light that it washes out the image being reflected. The same level of surface reflectivity exists between white and colored gelcoats but we perceive it differently. When you can see either a dot of a reflection from the sun (a dot not a blob) or color reflected in white gelcoat, you're good. If I can see my face in the reflection, detail in it and the colors of my skin and eyes, I'm pretty much there or good enough for the girls I date anyhow.
Glad you're enjoying the vids. It made my day.
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks so much man for responding, I kept looking and looking for some information on that and couldn’t find anything. Appreciate your videos, by far the best out there!!! You have ignited our love for our boat!!! Thank you!
I'm honored. Tell a friend. I don't get much traffic on the tubes.
ruclips.net/p/PL-w8tlEneOZYZhATUNXylgkXTNC1LFQjn
What is that 2nd bottle 06085 you used? I cant find it in a 3m search. Or rather can you list the 3M products I need starting with Heavy cut? it looks like if I just follow their labels maybe that will work for me? Heavy Cut, Polish, wax all by 3M? Also what do you think of compared to Mequiars I have used before and just bought a few weeks ago but havent applied it yet. Shoulld I just throw it out and go wiith the 3M instead? My boat is heavily oxidized on the side that sits in the sun all the time in the slip. I've waxed by hand in the past and it never retains the gloss, goes to chalk almost instantly.
3M compounds are the best.. They own Meguiar’s...
Start with Super-Duty or Heavy Cut. Finish with Perfect-it ex ac and clean/inspect the finish. Apply a marine wax like Flagship (by Meguiar’s) and keep her clean with a "spray detailer" between washes and before/after use..
Auto parts stores sometimes carry Super-Duty.
The Meguiar’s compound, either #67 or 91, are super oily and will hide oxidation from you..
ruclips.net/video/yPIX9Qswp-4/видео.htmlfeature=shared
This video was just an "in your face" vid to show what's possible, don't follow what I did here, watch any of the other vids I've done to get a better idea of how this works.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Cool thanks. Ok another question I have is I just got the Makita tool that looks like the yellow one you have. Is there a reason you use it without the handle on? I put the U shaped handle on mine for added security to hold on to, because my boat is in the water in the slip on a lift and I sure dont want to risk dropping it, I think the handle would give me something to hold on to it better.
It gets in the way. It's for car detailers but you can use it if you want, no foul. I wrap the cord around my arm and then if I drop the buffer, the friction of the cord gives me a few extra moments to catch the cord as it falls.
Fresh water won't kill one if you dry it, spray it with wd-40 and spin it every few hours to keep it from rusting shut. In salt water.. Buy a new buffer.
Boats have lots of places I need to force a buffer. A handle gets in the way in my work. None of my guys used either the side handle or the D-ring or D-loop but it's ok if you do. If you find it in the way, remove it.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks I'll defeintely try the cord around my arm too, thanks.
Anytime.
Hi may i ask what 3m compound that was you were useing thanks in advance
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Nice job matey ✌️🇬🇧
Thanks. I hope you enjoyed.
Do you think a rotary rather than a DA is a must for this particular situation?
Yes. You'll never, EVER get these results without literally days using a DA or forced rotation. You need a rotary on this level of oxidation. You can finish possibly with a DA but unless you're working with actual sand as the abrasive, they just massage the gelcoat. I need something to get the job done so that I can get to the next boat before the month is gone.
Hello I was curious what size/brand wool pad you are using?
I use 3m foam, wool or nylon pads, some soft Shurehold DA pads and that's about it.
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754).
@@Local_Boydidgood thank you sir for that thorough and informative reply, fantastic work!
Anytime. Thanks for watching.
@@Local_Boydidgood BTW I've been working on BMW's probably about as long as you've been detailing boats (before the E39 was released), you can look up my name on Instagram if you ever have a question about your E39 you can DM me.
Well, figure out how I can tune the 4.6us motor to accept a twin-screw blower and I'll help you buff stuff! 😝👍🏼
I'm not on anything but bimmerforums.com and here. I don't do social stuff well. 🤪
Ill start by saying great work and excellent results thank you for sharing your knowledge I have no experience with gel coat why is the pad with the color of the boat is that normal ?? I appreciate the input
Fairly normal. You're removing gelcoat that's oxidized so, it stays in the pad and gets thrown about off the pad.
Thanks for the view/comment and question.
As long as it's not horribly dark while being near a white gelcoat, you'll be fine, the cleaning and wax afterwards will remove it. If concerned, tape stuff off with blue masking tape (not frog tape)
Very instructive! Thanks.
Glad you liked it. The last vid (58 minutes) shows more on using compound on small surfaces on the topsides. You might enjoy it. Bring food and a drink, it's long.
Oh my goodness, thank you so very much I followed your advice and my neighbors couldn't believe it was the same boat. They were taking videos of my polishing up the paint.
I only spent maybe an hour with 3M super duty compound and haven't even waxed the boat.
I want to send you before and after pics.
Thanks again if you are ever in North Carolina please let us know dinner is on us no matter the cost.
Wayne
Glad it helped! There's beer with dinner right?
@@Local_Boydidgood I'll drink milk you can have an entire keg if you want. I drank way too much in the Navy.
My Army days were a bit foggy too brother. Now I might have 2 a day but this week and last, none. I have my addictions but I like milk too! 😂👍🏼
@@Local_Boydidgood Right on my first 4 years in Japan I was drinking errday lol.
Spent a lot of time up in Camp Zama, ahhhh the good ole days
If I never have to wake up @ 5am, ever again, I'm glad them days are behind me. It was fun though.
Great job ❤
Thank you.
@@Local_Boydidgood what u r using?....sander with what tip?
There is no "sander".
I use a DeWalt DWP849X rotary polisher or buffer or "buff" (if in Australia)
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
It's been a year. Can you tell us how you did in front of the glass?
It looks phenomenal, I am going to give it a try on my, new to me, neglected '83 Beachcraft
Hi Joseph,
Thanks for the kind words. As to the front, I used Heavy Cut followed by Perfect-it ex ac with a wool pad. I then used a window cleaner to remove the compound oils and applied Meguiar's Flagship to the area under the glass. I put it on thick and let it sit till dry.
@@Local_BoydidgoodAppreciate you sharing your knowledge. Not many pros respond the way you do on RUclips. Class act, all the best to you :-)
Thanks man. I try to help if I can.
How long will that last ? And what about thick oxidation?
It's still shiny today and that was over 2 years ago. Maintenance is a big part of it but also, getting all the oxidation out to begin with.
If it's super thick, try sanding first?
ruclips.net/video/h5seC2AOWE0/видео.html
This was one of the worst boats I've ever done. Sanding would have saved time perhaps but I've also learned a ton since then and have never sanded a boat (outside of removing issues left behind after removing emblems or decals, just to save time) Compound and the right tools and techniques can do everything I need them to.
Lee
Hi awesome job. Is the wax used here the fire glaze.
Initially, no. It is on this boat as a test but in the 1st video of this boat, I think Flagship liquid wax by Meguiar's (owned by 3M)
Thanks for the kind words. I think if you look at any of my 300+ other videos to see something better than my detailer thirsthl-trap here.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood hi. Really enjoying your videos and sharing them with friends.
Just wondering what you would suggest to remove silicone residue... under my bump rubbers strip I notice a previous repair put silicone in but was messy.. I have tried surface prep, rubbing alcholol and acetone... but can not get it off.. appreciate you help.
Hi David. Use a scraper and a knife (carefully) to remove a majority of it and then; Once you're removed most of the silicone use a cloth and some methylated spirits to wipe the remnants off. The methylated spirits act as a solvent in this scenario helping break down the last of the silicone and making it easier to manage and less sticky.
It sucks..
@@Local_Boydidgood hey thanks heaps. Boat came out nice. I sent you an email with photos.
I'm honoted. Thabk you. Tell people about the vids, thabks enough.
Lee
The red paint transfer to the pad is that because you went the through the gel coat and into the base coat?
No. It took off the oxidized portion of the gelcoat, not paint. There's no paint here. Past the gelcoat is fiberglass mesh and resin. (Bayliner cut some corners early on)
Hey man if you don’t mind me asking, what speeds do you generally use.
Slow unless you are really good.
Interesting what speeds do you use for each step?
Slow or fast, doesn't matter. It works. I go full speed at times just to show off. Slow will deliver a generally better finish than fast.
Any intent of putting her back in the water at some point?
No. The lady that used to own it decades ago came by to see it. I guess in a small town, news travels. It'll be a demo till the whole thing is done. At that point, I'll sell it for the trailer and the hull. The boat could be brought back but why.
This is just a final test boat for students and so I don't have to try and convince people who come by asking if we can bring a boat back. I can just point outside at this thing, discussion avoided.
Dang! That's a whole lot of effort for a Bayliner, and the material to do the work likely cost more than it's worth.
In advertising alone, that boat has made the shop enough money to warrant whatever the material cost was and to have it sitting outside the shop to prove our work in awesome.
The point was that almost any boat can be brought back.
I know the sound in that video are horrible, I do explain all this in the video.
Thanks for the comment.
I need to buy this kit, can I order everything from you?
I appreciate the kind offer but I stay out of people's commerce if I can.
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you I really appreciate the knowledge. We just purchased a 1996 Maxum 2100 SR with a trailer for 2k. I was researching a vinyl wrap, but want to bring back the shine for sure. Stinks we can't chat live, but I get it.
Wayne
@@Local_Boydidgood Not sure I can send pics to show the condition of boat to see if it would be a good candidate
I know the boat. Heavy Cut should do it unless it was submerged in saltwater and then dried out in the Bahamas. In that case, Super-Duty to "break the surface" then Heavy cut.
You can always make a video and send me the link.
I support vinyl wraps for eally bad boats but watch some of my Playlist and I'm sure you'll see a boat in a similar condition.
@@Local_Boydidgood Boat is in North Carolina I was told it's always been a freshwater boat, but who knows. I'm about to order the products and make a video for sure.
If you visit North Carolina dinner if definitely on me.
Simply looks tuff a shame that’s just a demo boat 🤣 awesome pro level job
I appreciate your kind words, thanks. Old bayliner usually shine up if they've been left alone for a decade or two.
We did have thoughts of flipping her but at the shop, so effective at up selling.
Really really nice! Thanks a lot!
Thank you a lot. 😊
How long does it stay glossy like that ? Or does it stay like that
An answer can be found in the description along with the linked video to show the results over time.
You have proven what I suspected all along. Down here in Miami folks are trying to sell a 4 stage for almost $10k on a 32' CC. They are out of their minds. They get a good result and theres people here that pay it. Im not one.
Werd!
No they're not. Sure, you can just buff one. But wait a little bit. It'll be back. Then you're back to square 1.
No, that's your experience. Keep watching my vids and you'll never have to experience it again. Or, stay ignorantly happy, sanding away.
Lee
@Local_Boydidgood I'm like 10 years into this stuff. I'm not going to watch your vids. Sorry. Sometimes stuff just needs to be sanded. Heavy cut won't get past all of the oxidation. Sorry.
Super-Duty, not heavy cut. Years has nothing to do with it. As an example; I have twice as many as you and invented this polisher...
You being lazy and not wanting to do more to get better is telling me everything I need to know. Good luck out there. I seen the vids.. Seriously, good luck.
Lee
Hey long time no see, we met up with Jed and the others when I had my Alpine White M5, and my tiag 540it. I have a 1986 Mirage that could use your expert buffing, it still shines real nice except for the black on the bow around the hatch.
Bring it to Chelan, bring beer.
Is it this bad?
ruclips.net/video/NiMe9hWkX_A/видео.html
If so:
ruclips.net/video/yuMI-1LN2wA/видео.html
I got'chu boo.
Looks good :)
Thanks, it was a fun project. There's 300+ more with similar dramatic impacts, better audio and commentary.
Thabjs for watching and saying hi!
Lee
So I read there is a class I can pay for? Where?
Chelan WA. You go home when you can feel confident not before. 2-3 day thing.