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You're welcome & thanks for watching!

Honestly, I'm not sure. The customer stated the year. I like them, but I'm not super familiar with the model changes over time. It could be older

I'm not sure what you mean by no roof rack? You can see if the whole way down the riverside?

Thank you, Michael, I appreciate it! This was a customer's car we did a paint enhancement package on a few years ago. It came out pretty well, considering the damage.

Thank you! That's a little tough to answer without seeing the condition & failure, but if you are experiencing delamination, you may need to do some form of resurfacing. While this process works great for swirls, scratches, and light-medium oxidation, it sounds like you may need a bit more. If possible, I'd reach out to a detailer of boats or RV's and get an assessment. An RV dealer may give you some info as well, but I'd recommend having someone experienced in fiberglass restoration look in person. It sounds like your issue is a little more complex & this might not be enough for your situation. Hope I helped at least a little bit & thanks again!

Thank you for the great advice…..l will consult a RV detailer in my area. I really appreciate your time.

Hey Cindy! There is almost always 1 side that is worse due to positioning of the rig when it sits. However, compounding absolutely can not create oxidation, regardless of brand. Oxidation is mostly created by exposure, UV, & it's the result of the upper surface of the gelcoat failing to some degree. What I'd assume was the issue is lack of maintenance at some point (left unwaxed for months at a time or more) & the surface now needs to be wet sanded. Overworking compounds trying to achieve wet sanding levels of abrasion will result in softening of the gelcoat with a lot of heat being produced. This leads to pushing the oxidation deeper into the gel and chasing it around so to speak. I'd guess that is what may have happened here & if that's the scenario, any products used on that side in the same way would produce the same issue. If it feels smooth and slick to the touch but looks cloudy afterward, that's deeper oxidation that would need restoration, not just compounding/ polishing.

You're not wrong.. I can open it to a full length, but I do not like to lean anything against the customers unit. The double ring at the top gives decent stability, but yeah, there are WAY better & safer options. Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!

@Premier_Auto_Detailing I hear you bro. Just saying your safety comes first. Great job by the way

On point & thanks for caring! It's so easy sometimes to not follow ladder safely, wear gloves, wear a respirator, etc. We all try to be mindful, but it's definitely easy to develop bad habits. Thanks again!

Thanks for the comment, check out this videos tutorial. ruclips.net/video/i6CKU_AujLQ/видео.html

Awesome & thanks for watching!

Thanks! Normal light cleaning, I use either Rinseless wash from DIY or a light cleaner/ protectant like their Clean & Protect on a lightly damp MF towel. You'd be surprised just how well rinseless works with very little pressure! If it needs a little more or is stained, I like using the steamer. There are many other ways too. MicroFiber pad, little damp like the towel method on a buffer, SOFT drill brushes are great too!

@@Premier_Auto_Detailing Thanks for the reply I will try and see how it goes. Look forward to seeing more of your vids

@@mo350znissan07 Thanks, Rico! Lmk how it goes!

Awesome! Thanks for checking it out!

Thank you & thanks for all you guys do! You're awesome!

Thanks for watching!

Glad you were able to find a combination that worked well for you! Stark products are great too, "Level R" is a heavy cut, but when it's that bad, it usually needs some sand paper. Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!

Paint enhancements: ruclips.net/video/cFYDJSVR1HY/видео.htmlsi=rUmXgwzjZWHSmPF1

Headlight restoration: ruclips.net/video/i6CKU_AujLQ/видео.htmlsi=XNpVDT6xgF-6Sd8J

The yield will vary based on the feed water TDS. I get roughly 1,100 gallons using very good quality virgin resin (egenerated resin will typically get less). That's pushing it farther than ideal tho. When I start to notice a few water spots, I change it out.

My base TDS is a little under 200ppm. A carbon/chlorine pre filter will lower the tds going into the DI tank and prolong the resin too. Half a cube of good resin can be purchased on sale for $110-$120.

The result is that it started dry & it ended full. The title kinda nailed it, I think. Thanks for the comment!!

There's nothing wrong with that!

Good question! I mix 5 gallons at a time in a 6 gallon jug using 1.5oz of Flex Ice. If I need to mix just enough for the AquaPro, half an oz. I'd recommend mixing the powder in a separate smaller container to dissolve, then add it into the machine and top it off to make sure it's mixed well.

Thank you! I hope you found something that'll help you out!

@Premier_Auto_Detailing definitely! We actually just washed a 29 ft fifth wheel. We tried the compound and pads for a car today to get the shine to come back, and quickly saw that it was not going to do the job. Now we're ready for the job tomorrow. Thanks in part to your video.We really appreciate it!

Awesome! Pads, you'd be OK, but the compound really needs more cut. If you find it's shiny from 1 angle & cloudy looking from the opposite side of the light source, buffing will not fix it. The shiny angle means the surface oxidation was removed & it's polished out. The same spot with the light behind you vs in front of you being cloudy and blotchy means it has deeper level oxidation that would need wet sanding followed up with a 2 step. It sounds odd & is hard to describe but check different angles of light & if it's there, then what I described will make better sense. Good luck & have fun with it!

Awesome! Thanks for watching & for commenting!

Nice! They're a really nice truck!

Thanks! I appreciate the view & the comment!

Thanks Al! It's always a pleasure!

I personally like the DA Fine foam pads from Rupes for nearly everything. The yellow is my goto like 90% of the time & the blue is very aggressive for a foam but still does decent even with an AllInOne style product. I use the white rarely unless it's the last part of doing a full correction. Don't forget to select the size for your equipment! - Rupes DA Fine Polishing pads amzn.to/3MSqyCa - Rinseless Wash diydetail.com/collections/wash/products/rinseless-wash?ref=PREMIER&variant=42193531535518 - Purple wool pad diydetail.com/collections/buffing-paint-correction/products/gold-standard-wool-pad?variant=42375466156190

One of the great things about detailing is that you can do things many different ways & still get great results! I have a decent collection of pads & personally don't even have a sheepskin pad. For me, foam for finishing & most light to moderate corrections, purple wool if I really really need to chew into something followed up with foam. I personally keep the pads fairly damp with rinseless wash. It can get a little grabby when coming off but it's not usually too bad. Make sure you aren't overusing the product. If it's too thick it can cause some of the issues you described. You can also do 2 towels for removal. 1 damp with rinseless to use 1st, which will get rid of the majority, then immediately hit it with the 2nd dry towel.

Hey Jeff, I would agree. A wool pad makes quick work of more severe oxidation if doing a 2 step followed up with a foam pad, then a wax/ sealant/ coating. I do like the Meguiar's AIO for jobs like this where we're trying to meet a budget & it's rather forgiving to use in direct sunlight on a 100+°F day lol. For durability without a cost factor, I'd go with a ceramic coating all the way. Thanks for the comment!

Hey! Good question, obviously shade is ideal but not always possible. Some compounds tend to do better than others at not drying too fast. The compound in the video is one of them. The wax does tend to flash & dry quicker, though. Using a machine to wax helps expedite the process & keeps the "wax off" phase to a minimum. General tips, 1 I keep my polishing pads a little damp. I use either DI water or Rinseless Wash in a spray bottle (mist one spray on the pad & run at max speed for about 10 seconds). 2 Spray some panel prep or distilled/ deionized water from a spray bottle just before you start the section to cool the panel if it's hot to touch. 3. Adjust the size of the work area if needed. It seems counterproductive, but smaller sections will save you time overall vs. fighting dried compound. 4 Start in an area that makes sense for the current time of day & throughout the rest of the job. You don't want to start the sun side & follow it. Hope that helps a little. It's 112°F this weekend here, so it definitely adds challenges!

@@Premier_Auto_Detailing Thank You Sir!!

No problem! I would also suggest Blackfire All In One & DIY Detail Gold standard polish for longer work times on your autos. I use those 2 often for that reason. Blackfire has synthetic sealant that's good for about 6 months and looks great!! DIY works and looks good, but you'll need to use a wax, sealant, or ceramic coating afterward to protect it.

Thanks Vito! Are you an enthusiast or a detailer yourself?

@@Premier_Auto_Detailing none of the above.I just love the before and after.

Nice! Well thank you for taking a look @ my video & the comments. I appreciate it!!

Absolutely!

Good tip i gotta get some now lol

Haha, I hear ya. It really is good stuff! I wouldn't recommend it if I didn't use it, & I wouldn't use it if it didn't work. lol Follow the link to DIY Detail & use the coupon code PREMIER to save 10%

I may hit you up. I was thinking about it a couple of weeks ago. I just don't get down your way too often

Thanks for the reply, & yes but with limitations. On glass, it works just as well as paint and is safe to use both inside & out. If there is a lot of road film outside or smoke residue inside, it will likely take repeated passes. At that point, I'd use something a little stronger like a 50/50 mix of Isopropyl alcohol & distilled water or a good glass cleaner first & then follow up with rinseless. Same concept for tires & wheels. It doesnt have the surfactants to pull browning from a tire but it will get the surface clean.

Thank you! Youre right, the right tool makes all the difference in efficiency & each situation is different.

Thanks! i will have a few videos coming out soon that show how to use the Spot-Free Rinse DI water system & a review of why they are a great tool / investment for DIY and professionals

Thank you!

That is the difference between the 2 models. The Wrangler is the SUV & the Gladiator is the truck.

Thank you, Carlos! Seems like the things we do often and without thinking about, aren't second nature to everyone yet. Different experience levels for everyone, right

Hey Chris, that's a great question! Typically, just soap & rinse. There's really not enough room to clean it exceptionally well. On the plus side, there's usually not much there other than dust and loose debris. It isn't an area where you need to worry much about abrasion or UV damage & they generally don't rust out there even. You could probably take a microfiber head made for an extension pole and maybe fit it back there, depending on your vehicle.

Chris,, I was thinking about your question & if you want to clean that space better, maybe soap the area & use an XL microfiber drying towel in place of a wash mitt?

@Premier Auto Detailing yeh, I have actually been giving thought to this for some time. I have asked several times on several videos, just to see what people do. You are the first to offer any sort of answer. You'll notice that on every other video out there, everyone just glosses right past as if that area isn't there. I am going to make a tool for this. Essentially, it'll be a five foot, stiff but flexible, bristled plastic rod. Maybe a rod with knotted microfiber towels along the length. I'll tell ya, if you make it, you could market it. Nobody is touching on that area.

That's a good idea. Let me know when you make one!

Thank you for the comment, I really appreciate them & you're very welcome! I'm glad I could help you out! I have used different clay towels and theirs is different and better. It's much thicker than most amd the perforated clay helps keep product where you need it. I like doing it this way because you're combining the decontamination, clay, oxidation removal, & sealant all at the same time! I also use a DI water system that totally eliminates water spots and is small enough to fit under a RV in storage. Here's a link to save 6% & free shipping from RV mods, where I get my DI system. Thanks again! rv-mods.com/store/DI-Pro-50-Compact-p142494914

Thanks!!

Thanks! It's not quite as glossy as using a DA but it works well & it fit their budget!

No worries, thanks for all the great products!

The truck or the DIY product?