Top 5 Problems Ford Escape SUV 2008-2012 2nd Generation
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
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Do you own a 2nd generation Ford Escape, which is model years 2008 to 2012? Watch this video to discover the top 5 common problems and solutions. From ignition coils to EGR valves, radiator fans and blower motor resistors, Andy's got you covered. Learn how to diagnose and fix these issues, and also tips on how to prevent them. Don't let these problems catch you by surprise, watch now!
0:00 Top 5 Problems Ford Escape SUV 2008-2012 2nd Generation
0:23 Ignition Coils
0:54 EGR Valve
1:34 Purge Valve
2:27 Radiator Fans
3:00 Blower Motor Resistor
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This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2008 Ford Escape
2009 Ford Escape
2010 Ford Escape
2011 Ford Escape
2012 Ford Escape
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If you get a check engine light and it's for the EGR don't just put another one on it. The EGR tube that goes into the intake has a bend in it that gets clogged with exhaust soot. Easy to clean, there are some RUclips videos about it
For years I'm dreaming of owning a 2010-12 Escape Limited with navigation package. I test drove about 5 of them. A couple of times came close to be able to buy one. They are special.
I have a 2011 Escape with 106K miles. I bought it used at 49k in 2014. I had early issues with the evap cannister and purge valve. That was costly. A peculiar issue was the instrument panel would have certain warning lights come on, the ac would blow warm air, and the liftback would lock. If I hit the dash above it, it would go back to normal. The dealership wanted $1100 to replace the panel. I had an old mechanic tell me that he thought it was "cold solder joints." I found a place in downtown Houston that pulled the panel and re-soldered the joints for $150. A couple of years ago, I had the shifter cable break which ran me about $400. Most recently, I had to replace the ignition lock housing due to starting issues. I do have the issue you spoke about regarding the blower motor resistor. Runs good and strong on settings 3 and 4, but almost nothing on 1 and 2.
Update: I did buy the blower motor resistor on Amazon (about $15) and installed it. A/C blows well on all speeds. Thanks.
My Escape has 280,000kms and it still runs perfectly pretty reliable
Had the Blower Motor Resistor issue. I have a 2012 and I have to admit it has been relatively problem free.
These things are pretty stout vehicles and if maintained properly will last 250k-350k easily. This generation is the G.O.A.T. Across all generations of Escapes. Transmission on these tend to be on the weaker side but if you change the fluid every 30k miles and don’t tow and hot rod them, they will do you right. Rust is a huge problem with salt belt states. In summary I wouldn’t hesitate buying one if your on the fence about it. They are cheap, easy to work on, and parts are always available for these!
So true, my escape 2005 = 210,000 miles no major problem
cool story bro
Note that the Gen2 Escape 3.0 V6 engine in the 2008 model is the Gen1 engine without VVT. The Gen2 engine with VVT (more horsepower and better gas mileage) started in the 2009 model which is the second year of the Escape Gen2. Ford likes to make things confusing.
When getting parts, try to use the VIN just to be sure.
I have a 2012 Ford Escape. Thanks for this info
Got a 2010 2nd gen V6 XLT escape with 193k miles and I’ve had problems with the A/C, fuel pump and resistor. Haven’t fixed any of the problems and it still runs great. Things a horse for me
You forgot to talk about the rear shock mounts rusting out prematurely. If buying used you need to take off large plastic panels in cargo area to see the mount.
I feel like I've been waiting forever for this video! Thank you! It's help me confirm all the things wrong with my 2011 escape
Mine too been a wonderful ride ❤
Just want to point out that if you replace the resistor on the heat and a/c blower motor and the same thing happens relatively quick you will most likely need to replace the blower motor.
Thank you I was always wondering why my air only works on 4
I love that pun on the vehicle name in the video!
I love ford escape 👍
It is special isn't it?
Literally replaced the purge valve on my 2012 2.5 yesterday. Took all of 3 minutes.
2010 With 2.5L Hybrid. Bought new. Current mileage 202,000
Tailgate actuator.
Throttle body.
Oxygen sensor..twice.
Water pump.
Replaced Rotors and pads at 135k and they were still good at the time.
Oil changed with Mobil 1 every 5000 miles.
I have a 2009 Ford Escape, 4 Cyl. that I replaced the exhaust 1 week ago because it was loud, I spotted a hole along the pipe. Earlier I had that same mechanic replace the EGR Valve because the engine light was on and the code was p0400 for egr valve. This morning I turned my heat on and all I got was cold air. What could be the issue? I had my brother replace my blower resister a few years ago with an OEM part.
I purchased my 3.0 Duratech V6 Escape Limited back in 10/18 with just 21000 one owner miles! It has 88000 miles now and has proven to be one of the most reliable cars I’ve owned in my 69 years on planet earth! Cheap to run, comfortable, sharp looking, easy to fix when it needs work and that’s not often!
How long do the motors usually last?? When is timing chain due?? Love that its easy to get to stuff, not like my impala 3.6vvt, timing chain u gotta drop the motor ;-(
hey @1AAuto I have a 2008 Ford Escape XLT 2.3 with an electrical issue... my car has a kill switch installed so the battery wont die, but after a couple years owning it over time we noticed the radio comes by itself after turning the Killswitch on and starting the car.. it will also fluxuate in car audio volume by itself, like its losing power then gaining to full potential..
Hello! I have a trouble with my 2010 Ford Escape lights, so whenever I try to change the gear ( P to R or to D ) the front lights are turning on and they are turned on during driving, if possible, can you tell me how to turn that feature off? (The engine is 2.5 Litres )
I have a problem with ignition. I will turn the key up to 3 times and nothing. I actually have to take the key out and then insert it again and it will start. The battery was checked. Good. Alternator is good. Cranking power is good. Suspicion is ignition cylinder. Can I lubricate it with CRC electronics spray purchased in AutoZone with hope it will clean the cylinder. Do you have experience with fixing the problem this way. thank you.
Gracias por compartir información saludos desde México 😃🔧🚙👍
i got tired of replacing the resistor for fan speed as it kept blowing after alot of rain so i coated it in flex seal and installed it and it hasnt failed since
Do 4cyl have the same issues?
I've been a technician of every kind of car but my favorite is 6.0Lpower stroke you know internationals bastard child engine ha ha made me some good coin Useless piece of information but I appreciate your videos man you're very thorough it's good for people that don't know about Diagnosis in the automotive industry even good for technicians I've learned a few things from you keep it up
I have a 2007 Ford Escape, there is a pipe underneath the engine that looks like it was pryed apart a little with a pry bar and steam comes out. what is it? Thank You
I own a 2011 version and the catalytic converter was stolen while parked at the Little Rock airport long term car park. I bought an after market unit but since then the Check Engine light comes on and error message relates to the catalytic converter. Delivery time for an original part was 2 months and I couldn't wait that long. Any ways to get rid of that error message? Thanks
My 2016 Escape also needed to have the purge valve replaced
I have a 2009 Ford Escape that I just recently replaced the egr valve because the engine light was on and the code was p0400 for egr valve. I had a mechanic do this because I'm not inclined to do that type of work. The engine light is still coming on and it is the same code. The mechanic said I should be fine and that these ford vehicles are notorious for the egr valve causing the light to come on. I will be making a long distance trip in a couple of weeks with this vehicle so I'm kind of concerned about it. I have a obd2 scanner and I did clear the code which lasted about a day and the light came back on. I don't know if I should just leave it alone or get it looked at more. I hope someone will advise me.
How about popping or backfiring through the intake? Engine runs rough and has no check engine light or codes.
I own a 2011 Escape and only had one of the five problems. blower motor resistor, Amazon $21 installed myself and all four position are functioning
Anyone have issue with power cutting out after being at a light and accelerating? 2009 ford escape xls
How about the transmission issues?
I love my 2007 Mercury Mountaineer Premier all wheel drive 4.6 liter V8 3 Valves per cylinder very smooth ride very nice heated seats great horsepower and I get good gas mileage and plenty of room to move or store push pull or tow my back wiper works great my ac works great and my Husband Jim is a automatic and I would never part with my 2ford explores both 2005 one 4.0 liter V6 engine limited edition and Eddie Bauer 4,6 liter V8 2?values per cylinder both Explorer s are 4 wheel drive and they are truly amazing
What about running rough in wet weather--but never any codes thrown?
My issues are quite a lot , though I know nothing about electric engines that don't have a power steering reservoir..
I do believe the shifter for the transmission is catching on the rack (hopefully that's the correct part name for it .
When it shifts the vehicle with pull right and left and only during it shifts up or down which does it quickly.
My other issue is the entire bottom of the rear end of the vehicle got so rusted it is non-existent.
Which now is made of wood and the back tire is rigged into the wood .
The check engine light only has come on when the battery is almost dead.
Which now I unhook so whatever has been draining it when it's not running can't anymore.
My mom has a 2011 ford escape and it has 225k or smth miles and only had to fix a few things on it.
On the auto transmission be sure to change fluid every 30k miles and use Ford transmission fluid. I got my 2008 with 110k miles on it I changed the trans fluid and used Dextron. The transmission started shuttering when it went into fifth. I flushed it and put the Ford fluid in. The shutter went away after 20 miles
I own and work on 2011 2.5L Escape AWD ; 1) Rust in rear wheel wells ( no excuse for this, except poor QC), 2) The front sway bar links (poor design, easily fixed if Ford had beefed up the bolt/ ball joint size) 3) Minor leak at front main seal ( this happened at 75,000 miles) 4) Water pump ( went out at 70,000 miles). These are minor issues and the engine and transmission have been great! ALSO IMO; replace fluid in the tiny Power Transfer Unit or it will burn up (2 years or 12,000)
Hello all. I searched for my issue to see if there were any posts but I didn't see any. I just bought a 2011 Escape XLT 4 cyl. The brake light comes on the dash, tpm light, blinkers dont work on dash, background light on dash doesn't work and ac doesn't blow cold. Them after driving for a couple of miles they all start working. This is happening intermittently, what is the issue? Any help would be great.
Alright so I checked the ground, replaced the battery and the alternator is pushing 14.43 volts. Started the car no interior turn signals, tpm is on and brake light is on and no cold ac air. I drove it to get gas no turn signal when turning into the gas station. Left it running while getting the gas and then the brake light goes away, tpm as well, turn signals work and air blows cold. Great I thought. While idling the check engine light comes on, then the door lights, air blows warm turn signal lights don't work on dash( they work outside though) and the TPM and brake light comes back on amd not the it says brake system fault. What is the deal now?
+Olde Liberty Sheds & Structures We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
We have a 2011 XLT with only 78k miles. We bought it for the wrong reasons. The only redeeming qualities are its rugged appearance and solid feel. It's not nimble for urban driving. It has always had a noisy engine with a rough idle, but no check engine light coming on. I just assumed it has bad engine mounts or a not quite balanced crankshaft. It came with a crappy transmission which was reprogrammed several times. I assume Ford designed it for towing as it's so low-geared and slow in the first few gears. With the engine noise and transmission combined, I get the driving impression of a school bus. The rear defroster was defective from the factory & replaced. Surface rust is an issue. Another are ridiculous leaks on the rear hatch and passenger front door. Door was fixed. We did have the AC repaired and front brake lines fixed. I've replaced the blower motor resistor myself. I could go on, but what's the point. One and done with Ford.
You didn't mention the Fuel Delivery Module flange...
Anybody have an issue where during driving the engine just stops working correctly and the car starts jutting and the engine sounds like it's struggling to stay running? this has been a random issue but has gotten worse the last few weeks
I could really use some help. I have a 2009 Ford Escape and a part on the motor is broken. I know nothing about engine/ motor parts and need help identifying what part it is.
At 0:37 It's the round thing directly behind the yellow sticker. It has a wire/cable attached
Left out alternators,they eat them due to location near the heat from the exhaust.Transmissions too
cool story bro
Anybody else have a loud gurgling sound coming from the back of the vehicle when accelerating? Not all the time but once in a while and mostly when first heading out
I had a long comment written about this series of Escapes. Then I came to my senses before posting it! I should never ever say anything nice about a car!
Crazy my moms escape has all this problems
👍😎👍
the scape has escaped XD
or if you have my sisters escape, the trans. its currently on its 3rd
#1problem is rusted sub frame
Blower motor - high speed only. Broke twice. (still broke)🙄Along with the A/C. (they said the leak caused it to fail)
If you are looking to buy a used one stay away from The 3.0l engine go with the 2.5l mazda engine far more reliable, easier to fix.
And the 6sp auto trans can handle the 2 5L better than 3.0L . The 2.5L also came with the 5sp manual which is built proof mazda miata transmission.
The escape, mazda tribute, mazda cx7 are the same car differt styling. The mazda were assembled far better than the fords. If are looking for a newer car look at the cx5 non turbo 6sp it beats any small suv including rav4 in reliability and mpg, refinement quiet ride
that's great, but you haven't shown us what "EXACTLY" the part looks like, you're just pointing to where it is. This isn't as good as some of your other vid's. Still helpful, but not as much.
My ac just stop blowing cold. I just order the fan it's not spinning anymore smh hopefully that fixes my ac
I've changed all those parts except for the fans. Now I better knock on some real wood it would be my luck.
I have ford escape 2011 2.5 L the code is P0642 (sensor reference voltage a circuit low) no one didn't know what to do with it!!
Brace be with u
Forgot the ignition switch
None of these top 5 issues happened to my 2011 V6. What happened to me are:
1. Premature rust. Muffler and tail resonator rust out and rattle within 7 years. Rust in both rear wheel arches.
2. Windshield washer tube break everywhere! The material is so brittle it bursts near many fittings.
3. A metal connection piece in ignition switch cracked (behind key cylinder), resulting in difficulty to start.
4. Electronic throttle body throw a code. It's the integrated throttle position sensor that failed. You have to replace the whole tb.
5. Oil leak in rear timing cover gasket. While you are at it, replace all valve cover, timing cover, oil pan gaskets. Ford uses cheap rubber and they harden/shrink badly.
I believe my top 5 are more common. There are many search results in google and youtube. Overall, Ford's material/quality is very poor. Definitely worse than GM and Japanese that I owned.
👍
303,000 miles
It seems like my daughters escape 6 cyl. Runs louder than it should.
Oh it escaped 😂😂
The one I have has been the biggest lemon of a vehicle I've ever owned. Very low mileage and you even look at the vehicle and you repair bill. It's been nothing but junk to be honest
Had to replace blower motor fuse several times , at least 3, very poorly made,
Basically, never buy an Escape or Exploder.
Any car can be a POS! It’s the people that make it a POS, because they don’t take care of anything!!!