In my basement I have a 2pc shower drain system (the ones used for pre fab shower pans) and was previously installed with a mud shower pan and liner Obviously that is not the correct shower drainage system So my question is , Would it be better to dig out and cut the pipe to have a 3pc drain system installed ( the one with weep holes for the pan) liner ) or is there such thing as an adapter where I can screw an abs extension and install one of those new flo fx drain system which are made to avoid the pan liner and pre slope ? Either way if it sits and adds any height above the concrete slab ,my shower pan mud can be raised and curb height to make up for it
Thanks for the great video! My 2inch ABS riser coming through the concrete floor is not perfectly vertical. A typical ABS welded connection to that pipe would end up with an 1/8 inch deflection from horizontal at the drain surface :( ..is there a solution other than jack hammering there entire area to replace the U trap and riser?
It's a very common problem. I use a repair coupling. The one without stops. You can push the coupling slightly off on the pipe and the glue it and then connect the drain to it.
if installing a tub would i still need to cut out a hole or could the tub/shower combo connect to the roughed in pipe without the need for digging out some concrete? Thanks!
If you are installing tub with tile surround most likely you don't have to remove any concrete around the pipe but if you using tub/shower fiberglass enclosure most likely you will have to remove some but it depends how much room you have between shower floor and concrete.
Great video. Was the concrete that you cut out and installed the drain in sloped? Why I am asking this is that after you do the pre slope with the motar bed on the liner, wouldn't water sit on the liner since the concrete below wasn't sloped?
@@simonproatl thank you for replying. So is it drain first, then the liner, then cement, and then the shower pan? Is that the right order? If you can point me to a video for the rest of the process, that would be super helpful.
Hello, my friend. Great video. Question. Do you pack the concrete dry under and around the drain? Or did you add water over the concrete after? Thanks!
@@simonproatl Thank you for your response. Much appreciated. In my situation, I'm installing a KBRS Shower Slope which calls for a 3/8 inch clearance of the shower drain flange from the concrete slab, so not completely flush. I have a 5 inch diameter opening on the slab. With the drain dry fitted, it leaves me less than an inch of space to insert wet cement once the drain assembly is glued to the pipe. Would you recommend a self leveling product like Zika self leveling polyurethane sealant to fill the void for my situation? Thanks again!
Good video but I could barely hear you. The audio is very weak. Thanks for the video. I am getting ready to install a floor drain in the raised area of my garage which is going to be a laundry room. I am nervous as all get out about jacking into my post tension slab.
great videos Simon! question about this one but are we not putting screws into the concrete after it sets or are we just relying on the concrete to hold the drain flat/level after? Just cause in the video the 4 bolts you have are for the pan liner i guess and the other 4 holes would be to screw into a wood subfloor? are we just ignoring the extra holes using this method?
Ignore them if you use this drain on concrete subfloor. Or you can seal them with silicone or glue when you glue your liner to the drain. When you install shower drain on concrete sub floor: shower p-trap and pipe is surrounded by soil or concrete that hold everything in place and prevents pipes from moving or flexing. When you install the same drain on plywood subfloor then you will use those 4 holes to mount it to the plywood. When you have the access to the drain from bellow then it's better to install shower drain to the plywood first and then connect p- trap to it.
Simon - in this video there is NO PRESLOPE under the liner. In more recent videos, you show a preslope level with the drain flange. Is it bad to put the liner on a flat, concrete slab?
First step is to install a shower drain then build a pre slope pan and waterproof it then rubber liner and shower pan. If you don't have a preslope pan water might accumulate in the liner. After several year you might smell a difference. If you install shower floor tiles and grout them and seal them with penetrating sealer before installing wall tiles it might help or even prevent water accumulating in the liner.
@@GoLangley You can install it flush with the floor or 1/4" above it. If the drain sits higher, then your pre slope will have to be thicker near the walls and curb in order to function properly. Let say that your drain sits 1/2" above the floor and your farthest wall is 3 feet away from it then your pre slope will have to be 1 1/4" thick then you add 1 1/2 or more for shower pan. If you stack 3 - 2x4 for the curb that equals to 4 1/2". It's harder to install cement board and tiles on the curb inside the shower. You want to have a 1/4" gap between a shower pan and cement board that would make that piece of cement board very small and hard to install. Same with the tile because you have to install it after floor tiles. That's why I use thin set between concrete floor or plywood to straighten the dry pack mix when building a pre slope otherwise it crumbles.
@@simonproatl Thank you so much for your detailed response! My distance from the drain to wall is only 2 feet, meaning the slope only needs to be 1/2 in. Is there a general minimum thickness for a pre-slope + shower pan or is the 1/2 in total thickness good enough? Thanks in advance!
@ The smell I’m having now is not real strong….and it’s intermittent. It appears it MIGHT be coming from the outside edge of drain. I took off the drain cover to snake, clean and make sure P trap had water. I noticed the plumbers putty start coming out around the edge of drain when I was scrubbing with brush. I was going to unscrew the top of drain and reapply some plumbers putty (or silicone) but it appears the drain is cemented in. I don’t see any way to unscrew the inside of drain to pull out the top. I have solid corian walls and a solid coriander base. There is no crawl space. It APPEARS like if I need to reapply putty …or replace drain, I have to take out entire base. Wish I could attach a photo of inside of drain. Do you have any suggestions?
@@kingtutt61 There are many different types of drains used for showers pans. Shower with a shower pan liner and concrete pan will have a completely different drain than fiberglass or corian pan. Try to find a video on RUclips that show how to install corian pan drain that way you have a better idea how it works.
@@simonproatl Much appreciate your help & replies. I was NOT aware that different drains go on different types of pans. I’ll keep looking for a video. BTW…I’m subscribed with all 🔔 on! Thanks Simon!
@@ShhhJessica1223 Make sure that the brand and color of the drain base is matching. You can also measure the distance between the screws holes. They are not universal.
What type of concrete is appropriate for a 3/4 to 1 inch bed?. I'm redoing my bathroom and I think it's easier to make a concrete bed than level and put cement boards. Excellent video.
Is there a pre-slope going in that shower? And a 40 mil vinyl liner? Was that bottom piece of drain level with the concrete or did it sit above like it supposed to a half an inch or so
This drain was install for shower that had a pre slope and rubber liner installed . The bottom part of the drain is 1/4" to 1/2" above the concrete. This is a large shower 9' x 5' shower that why the drain must be slight higher so pre slope is thick enough around the drain.
Hi! I’m using the exact same drain on a slab as well, but I wanted to know if I could recess the drain a little below the surface of the slab to achieve a lower curb. Is this something that is okay to do?
No. It's harder to build a shower pan because you strainer (top piece with tread) might not reach the second piece of drain that holds the liner. Low curb is desired by many people but it creates some problems. When you install the pre sloped pan it's 3/4" thick then the liner and pan that is 2" thick and tile 1/2" . That's 3 1/4" thick shower floor surface. if you use 2 2x4 for the curb + cement board it's 3 1/2". When you tile your curb you will end up with a very small cut 1/2" or less from the inside of the shower.
You could go curbless with the same type of drain, we do this on the regular and own a plumbing and flooring business in sw Oklahoma. Doing this requires taking out the whole slab of the shower, repairing concrete by code, with preslope, and then pouring regular 4 to 1 using a waterproof membrane on top.
I do all mine curbless, I pour my concrete lower then the rest, then use pro red waterproofing. It just paints on but dries like a pool liner, the use shower sand mix to go even with the rest of the floor but slope to the drain. Never had a problem.
Is this really how they do it? 30 seconds in, and this seems like a stupid way of doing things. why pour concrete only for a hole to be cut later. pour the concrete with the hole already in place; it would be VERY SIMPLE to do. obviously this is no critique on the guy doing the video.
If they would leave some room around the pipe shower drain installation would be so much easier. Especially that plumbing for this shower was installed 2 months earlier by large plumbing company.
Good of you to think cement guys give a shit much less understand plumbing. They will also just pour concrete in the drains. Same with tile guys and mortar. They simply do not care about the next guy. There are steps and the plumber isn’t there through all of them.
Only video I've found showing the actual drain installation in a concrete floor. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
me to. thank you
no kidding. Everyone else is just doing it on wood and calling it concrete. The algorithm doesn't help either
Great instructional video. I’m about to do this too. I’m also afraid of breaking pipe. Wish me luck. Sound was also good. I heard it just fine.
You can do it!
great video,I'm a plumber and I have to do this same job in a few days.
Good luck!
as a 22 yr plumber, I wonder why the pvc wasnt boxed out before slab pour. Good video
It was probably roughed in by a rookie 😀😃
Some are boxed but most are not. (in Georgia) :)
That’s was my goal to find this comment. Fire that plumber. He knows what’s going there and creates more work. Don’t make excuses
The floor I just broke up had no box. In Arkansas.
What's the advantage of boxing it? do you still need to pour concrete in to lock in the P trap if its boxed?
I’m doing my drain this weekend this video looks. Really good
Good luck!
Always thanks For your help 🙏🏻
I'm glad that it was helpful.
@ I always go back and watch your video, because I forgot how to do it, Thanks
Thanks for your video .
Thanks for watching!
Easy to follow
Good explication.. Thank you to share your experience in your video.
Glad it was helpful!
Does the base of the insert sit on top of the concrete? Meaning, the bottom of that fitting is flush with the top of the concrete?
Drain base sits flush with the concrete.
Thanks for sharing, about to do this in my basement
Go for it!
Great instructional video man...
Glad you liked it!
You should use the impact tool in case your cutter loosens off and falls into the drain
It happens :)
it would just slip off the cutter has a straight shaft... no indent for the impact tool to hold it in place
definitely measure once, cut twice or three times
In my basement I have a 2pc shower drain system (the ones used for pre fab shower pans) and was previously installed with a mud shower pan and liner
Obviously that is not the correct shower drainage system
So my question is ,
Would it be better to dig out and cut the pipe to have a 3pc drain system installed
( the one with weep holes for the pan)
liner ) or is there such thing as an adapter where I can screw an abs extension and install one of those new flo fx drain system which are made to avoid the pan liner and pre slope ?
Either way if it sits and adds any height above the concrete slab ,my shower pan mud can be raised and curb height to make up for it
It's better to dig it out and install new drain.
Do you think the stucco fiberglass mesh is really important? I can’t find it
It makes everything stronger. If you need for the curb you can tape the seams with 2" fiberglass tape.
Thanks for the great video! My 2inch ABS riser coming through the concrete floor is not perfectly vertical. A typical ABS welded connection to that pipe would end up with an 1/8 inch deflection from horizontal at the drain surface :( ..is there a solution other than jack hammering there entire area to replace the U trap and riser?
It's a very common problem. I use a repair coupling. The one without stops. You can push the coupling slightly off on the pipe and the glue it and then connect the drain to it.
@@simonproatl Thanks much for the quick reply. That should work.
Great how to video!!! Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
if installing a tub would i still need to cut out a hole or could the tub/shower combo connect to the roughed in pipe without the need for digging out some concrete? Thanks!
If you are installing tub with tile surround most likely you don't have to remove any concrete around the pipe but if you using tub/shower fiberglass enclosure most likely you will have to remove some but it depends how much room you have between shower floor and concrete.
i'm hoping i just need to go down an inch or 2 at the most. Thanks for the reply. @@simonproatl
Great video. Was the concrete that you cut out and installed the drain in sloped? Why I am asking this is that after you do the pre slope with the motar bed on the liner, wouldn't water sit on the liner since the concrete below wasn't sloped?
First step is to install the shower drain then build a pre sloped pan around it then install rubber pan liner and last is the shower pan.
So with this on the bottom, will there be an upper piece in the shower pan that fits nicely into it? Is that the purpose of placing this there?
This drain is design to be use with shower pan liner.
@@simonproatl thank you for replying. So is it drain first, then the liner, then cement, and then the shower pan? Is that the right order? If you can point me to a video for the rest of the process, that would be super helpful.
Drain first -> Pre-sloped Pan ->rubber liner -> concrete shower pan -> shower floor tile
@@fafza1
Hello, my friend. Great video.
Question. Do you pack the concrete dry under and around the drain? Or did you add water over the concrete after? Thanks!
I mix concrete with water and then pack it around the drain.
@@simonproatl Thank you for your response. Much appreciated.
In my situation, I'm installing a KBRS Shower Slope which calls for a 3/8 inch clearance of the shower drain flange from the concrete slab, so not completely flush. I have a 5 inch diameter opening on the slab. With the drain dry fitted, it leaves me less than an inch of space to insert wet cement once the drain assembly is glued to the pipe. Would you recommend a self leveling product like Zika self leveling polyurethane sealant to fill the void for my situation? Thanks again!
Good video but I could barely hear you. The audio is very weak. Thanks for the video. I am getting ready to install a floor drain in the raised area of my garage which is going to be a laundry room. I am nervous as all get out about jacking into my post tension slab.
I will work on the audio. Good luck with your project :)
I heard you just fine. Thanks for the instructions!
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
great videos Simon! question about this one but are we not putting screws into the concrete after it sets or are we just relying on the concrete to hold the drain flat/level after? Just cause in the video the 4 bolts you have are for the pan liner i guess and the other 4 holes would be to screw into a wood subfloor? are we just ignoring the extra holes using this method?
Ignore them if you use this drain on concrete subfloor. Or you can seal them with silicone or glue when you glue your liner to the drain.
When you install shower drain on concrete sub floor: shower p-trap and pipe is surrounded by soil or concrete that hold everything in place and prevents pipes from moving or flexing. When you install the same drain on plywood subfloor then you will use those 4 holes to mount it to the plywood. When you have the access to the drain from bellow then it's better to install shower drain to the plywood first and then connect p- trap to it.
They make boxes to put around the pipe so they pour around it and not have to chip it up.
They don't use it in Georgia. :)
Simon - in this video there is NO PRESLOPE under the liner. In more recent videos, you show a preslope level with the drain flange. Is it bad to put the liner on a flat, concrete slab?
First step is to install a shower drain then build a pre slope pan and waterproof it then rubber liner and shower pan. If you don't have a preslope pan water might accumulate in the liner. After several year you might smell a difference. If you install shower floor tiles and grout them and seal them with penetrating sealer before installing wall tiles it might help or even prevent water accumulating in the liner.
@@simonproatl So even with a pre-slope, liner, and shower pan, the drain stays flush with the original concrete floor?
@@GoLangley You can install it flush with the floor or 1/4" above it. If the drain sits higher, then your pre slope will have to be thicker near the walls and curb in order to function properly. Let say that your drain sits 1/2" above the floor and your farthest wall is 3 feet away from it then your pre slope will have to be 1 1/4" thick then you add 1 1/2 or more for shower pan. If you stack 3 - 2x4 for the curb that equals to 4 1/2". It's harder to install cement board and tiles on the curb inside the shower. You want to have a 1/4" gap between a shower pan and cement board that would make that piece of cement board very small and hard to install. Same with the tile because you have to install it after floor tiles. That's why I use thin set between concrete floor or plywood to straighten the dry pack mix when building a pre slope otherwise it crumbles.
@@simonproatl Thank you so much for your detailed response! My distance from the drain to wall is only 2 feet, meaning the slope only needs to be 1/2 in. Is there a general minimum thickness for a pre-slope + shower pan or is the 1/2 in total thickness good enough? Thanks in advance!
@@GoLangley Preslope pan is usually 3/4" thick and shower pan 1 1/2".
I suspect my shower drain has no U trap below it becuase it constantly smells. It goes up through concrete slab like this. What can I do about it?
You have to dig it out and install new p trap.
If the walls and berm are concrete too, do you still need a PVC shower liner?
Yes
My Oatey drain screws to the base. Do I still glue it too?
Yes
Where’s the P trap….under the slab? How do you get to it…in case it needs repair? How do you check the trap for leaks?
P trap is under the slab. If it leaks then you can smell it.
@ The smell I’m having now is not real strong….and it’s intermittent. It appears it MIGHT be coming from the outside edge of drain. I took off the drain cover to snake, clean and make sure P trap had water. I noticed the plumbers putty start coming out around the edge of drain when I was scrubbing with brush. I was going to unscrew the top of drain and reapply some plumbers putty (or silicone) but it appears the drain is cemented in. I don’t see any way to unscrew the inside of drain to pull out the top. I have solid corian walls and a solid coriander base. There is no crawl space. It APPEARS like if I need to reapply putty …or replace drain, I have to take out entire base. Wish I could attach a photo of inside of drain. Do you have any suggestions?
@@kingtutt61 There are many different types of drains used for showers pans. Shower with a shower pan liner and concrete pan will have a completely different drain than fiberglass or corian pan. Try to find a video on RUclips that show how to install corian pan drain that way you have a better idea how it works.
@@simonproatl Much appreciate your help & replies. I was NOT aware that different drains go on different types of pans. I’ll keep looking for a video. BTW…I’m subscribed with all 🔔 on! Thanks Simon!
Thank You
You're welcome
Hey! My master on the third floor is having the shower pan redone. Can I reuse the part that’s in the concrete? Having a hard time finding a fit
You can reuse it.
@@simonproatl how do I ensure I can find the perfect fit for it? Or is it universal?
@@ShhhJessica1223 Make sure that the brand and color of the drain base is matching. You can also measure the distance between the screws holes. They are not universal.
Hey where did u get that pad for ur knees, i like it
Home Depot, Floor and Decor
What type of concrete is appropriate for a 3/4 to 1 inch bed?. I'm redoing my bathroom and I think it's easier to make a concrete bed than level and put cement boards.
Excellent video.
I use Quikrete Sand/Topping Mix and a coat of thin set to bond it to the plywood or concrete.
HARD-CONCRETE
Mapei 4 to 1
Is there a pre-slope going in that shower? And a 40 mil vinyl liner? Was that bottom piece of drain level with the concrete or did it sit above like it supposed to a half an inch or so
This drain was install for shower that had a pre slope and rubber liner installed . The bottom part of the drain is 1/4" to 1/2" above the concrete. This is a large shower 9' x 5' shower that why the drain must be slight higher so pre slope is thick enough around the drain.
No p trap?
There is one below
Hi! I’m using the exact same drain on a slab as well, but I wanted to know if I could recess the drain a little below the surface of the slab to achieve a lower curb. Is this something that is okay to do?
No. It's harder to build a shower pan because you strainer (top piece with tread) might not reach the second piece of drain that holds the liner. Low curb is desired by many people but it creates some problems. When you install the pre sloped pan it's 3/4" thick then the liner and pan that is 2" thick and tile 1/2" . That's 3 1/4" thick shower floor surface. if you use 2 2x4 for the curb + cement board it's 3 1/2". When you tile your curb you will end up with a very small cut 1/2" or less from the inside of the shower.
You could go curbless with the same type of drain, we do this on the regular and own a plumbing and flooring business in sw Oklahoma. Doing this requires taking out the whole slab of the shower, repairing concrete by code, with preslope, and then pouring regular 4 to 1 using a waterproof membrane on top.
I do all mine curbless, I pour my concrete lower then the rest, then use pro red waterproofing. It just paints on but dries like a pool liner, the use shower sand mix to go even with the rest of the floor but slope to the drain. Never had a problem.
is the drain even with the floor or no?
Drain is even with the floor. I case you want a thicker pre slope around the drain you can install it 1/4" to 1/2" above concrete floor.
Would this work for a stand up shower base? Or is this meant to go with floor tile?
This drain is used in showers where rubber pan liner is used.
what about a trap?
There is one few inches below the drain.
Is this really how they do it? 30 seconds in, and this seems like a stupid way of doing things. why pour concrete only for a hole to be cut later. pour the concrete with the hole already in place; it would be VERY SIMPLE to do. obviously this is no critique on the guy doing the video.
Actually the thing to do is install the drain first, and then pour the concrete relative to that.
If they would leave some room around the pipe shower drain installation would be so much easier. Especially that plumbing for this shower was installed 2 months earlier by large plumbing company.
I was thinking the exact same thing as soon as he mentioned it..put the recess in as the floor is being poured..
This prolly was a builder rough in…and if it wasn’t, the cement finisher didn’t care enough to leave a void
Good of you to think cement guys give a shit much less understand plumbing. They will also just pour concrete in the drains. Same with tile guys and mortar. They simply do not care about the next guy. There are steps and the plumber isn’t there through all of them.
My luck the tool would go down the drain
Telescoping magnet saved my tool many times.