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Excellent step by step instruction. I have done a shower to shower conversion before with complete demolition and reconstruction but never a move of a drain. This alleviated my apprehension. Great job!
Excellent video. I was going to contract it out, but this tutorial convinced me to tackle the project. My floor was only 4” so hammering it out was easy. Currently, I’m at the cut/measure/glue stage of the new fittings. Thanks a bunch (saved me, possibly hundreds of $)
bro you gave me the push I needed to do this....was despairing today when the pan I bought didn't fit and I can't find one to fit my rough in. Gonna get it next week.@@briangarcia2358
This little ruclips.net/user/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
I literally spent 7 days Phucing around with the exact same problem...I didn’t move it in the end....thanks now I know how to do it!.....I’ll be redoing my shower again....in a few years
beatiful work, i just wondering i did cut the concrete slap and repip the drian, can i just leave the hole on the concrete slap? because i need to put shower base on top also do i need to water proof the concrete slap before i lay the base on? thanks Eric
Hey man exact same way I do it. I do this for a living as well and just a FYI, when installing the upper part to your 2 piece drain you can get a whole lot of adjustment using washers on the four bolts to get that drain perfectly level and it doesn’t hurt a thing if you have to have a gap between the upper part of the drain and the liner
I really like your video’s and it has helped me understand most tile guys I run into. That being said in California a running trap or S trap refers when the top of the inside trap arm outlet goes below the weir of the trap between the vent and trap. In your case I think all you did was offset the tailpiece which is the distance between the fixture outlet and the trap. Legally in Cali you can offset the tail piece just like the continuous waste for a kitchen sink is offset for a dual sink. However, the offset can not exceed 24” between the fixture outlet and the trap. As for keeping the offset level with no slope is never a good idea because water will stand and odors will form as well as blockages which I come across a lot. You can still run the horizontal offset tail piece at 1/4”/ft because your DWV 90 will compensate the transition since the degree of slope is roughly 1.15 degrees. That being said it’s always better having the trap as much as possible below the fixture outlet this will help reduce odors and reduce stoppages as well. The trap arm on a 2” between the trap and vent can not exceed 5ft. Lastly tub drain to shower conversation in Cali, the complete trap arm and sanitary tee have to be upsized to 2” to meet code.
My home state of California is ridiculous in it's codes, rules, oversight...in virtually all aspects of your life ! Well over 20 years I've lived in Georgia and many things are done & work well without the "rules" that other states insist on....having said that there is international plumbing code ( IPC ) that oversees best practices and they allow I believe up to 18" extention of drain pipe away from trap. Is it ideal that entire set up be 2" on a shower ? Is it ideal drain should be directly above trap ? YES to both, but not practical in 90% of the renovations being done especially on a slab...no one is digging below grade a foot or more to tie into main to insure a 2" continuous drain for a shower. And at the end of the day an 1 1/2" will do the job just fine. Plumbers don't like the extention because it makes snaking trap harder, but functionally speaking it works.
There is enough moisture in the new concrete mix that the two will bond very nicely, but yes there is a concrete primer that is milky type substance that you could get from Home Depot and paint it on to the old surface if you're feeling a certain way about it
Question... Looking to tile a 4'x3' entry with 12x12 cheap ceramic tiles. Floor is 3/4" tongue and groove oak with 1x8 diagonal plank subfloor that feels solid no squeaks (1926 house). Joists are 1x10 16" on center. Will I be OK screwing down 1/4" hardibacker and then laying the tile? Also plan on using 1-5/8" backer on screws.. No thinset under the cement board. Thanks in advance
Yeah it sounds like it will be pretty solid, those extra long screws will be the key..and hardi is a good idea rather than durock, but it has little circles that are 8" apart... if it were me I would try to put some extra screws in where there are voids.
how about if it is just for same drain and just want to update with new tile and drain,. I have a castiron pipe and whin i turn the pipe with rench, im just turn in circles
That would depend on your local city or county I suppose, but as a homeowner you don't need to be licensed or have anything inspected, of course you would have to live with the end result
Is that a harbor freight rotary hammer? I was looking at dewalt, hilti, Mikita, and bosch. They’re wayyyy expensive. I kinda want the next size up because I use them to demo tile and wood. Sometimes up to 1200sqft. Haven’t heard of that brand though
No I personally don't use it because it requires a pre-slope, as most people know I don't do pre-slopes. When it's redesigned to be flush on the floor I'll have a second look.
The inside pipe cutter that looks like a cowboy spur can be found at Home Depot.. I don't know the brand but Home Depot only sells one. However it can only be used for plastic pipe, cast iron is a whole different thing, that requires a chain cutter or a metal cutting Sawzall blade
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I was just wondering why you did not make a 6" curb, possibly an optical illusion. Looks like 3 " curb. I am not sure what state you are in, but I have had problems with a shallow curb.
Most homes are not going to have tension lines in the concrete, that's typically for high-rise apartments or high-rise condos, but absolutely positively 100% you need to be cognizant of those cables
@@StarrTile my home has post tension cables in it. Our soil moves a lot where I live. I didn’t see any rebar in your vid. I guess it’s spaced apart more
Prior to them pouring the slab the plumbers will come in and do all their work and back fill it with dirt, then the slab gets poured, so there is no across-the-board depth of a P-trap
If this job was going to get inspected (with permits and be fully legal) do you think the inspector would be okay with leaving the p-trap where it originally was and just a run a drain pipe to it?
StarrTile, may I ask a laymans question? This is something I do not in general - understand about doing drain systems. There is supposed to be a 'slope' to the drain pipe. either 1/8" per foot, or 1/4" per foot. Where you show the shower drain being fitted and 'leveled' to the short section of drain pipe - you stress the ideal is to have the shower drain be LEVEL. With the shower drain being exactly LEVEL, how is it then possible for the short section of drain pipe to be SLOPED? In other words when the manufacturer created that pipe and long turn 90 degree fitting - I assume that is an EXACT 90 DEGREE fitting. If the fitting is exactly 90 degrees and the top surface of the 90 degree long turn elbow is LEVEL, wouldnt the opposite end be completely HORIZONTAL? as opposed to sloping at 1/8" or 1/4" per foot? And one can see this same question is valid for most any application, draining from a water closet, etc... Can you explain this in laymans terms?
I believe he was saying the top of the new pipe would be flush with the floor not that he is making the whole thing flush. Earlier in the video he was saying that it needs to have a 1/4 inch slope per foot which is why he cut down so low.
This is a really great question. As a welder fabricator it hurts my brain to think about this… lol. How does one achieve a level drain flange with a sloped drain pipe? Anyone else have input?
Well ideally you want a small slope in the drain pipe as well. Just as long as it's not pivoted 'uphill'. However, being level in this instance is acceptable too, since the water rushes down with quite some speed, this having no issues with draining. So yes, you definitely want a slope towards your drain. And also, yes, it is beneficial to have your drain pipe sloped a bit too. But it isn't the end of the world if it's level: the water will drain either way.
@@StarrTile Much obliged. I'm about to change a very stained fiberglass pan w/ a center drain to a Schluter linear drain moving the existing drain about 12". I expect to find rebar but since this home is from 2006 I suspect there are tension wires lurking down there somewhere.
As a rule tension wires are used in high-rise applications like multi-story condos or apartments, usually not in single family dwellings like you would have
I quote. "Having good tools, not proper tools, because there is no such thing as proper. but having good tools, that,that, makes your job easier..." You want this guy to give you advice on tools?????
Camera angle was deceiving. That slab looked like 2 " thick. I was shocked when you said 6" . Tell you what ill come remove that for you if youll come give me a game plan for my shower issue. Deal or no deal? Btw hows the kids face doing?
To be honest, I would have the left a drain where it walls and used the invisible trough that goes from one side to the other side and you wouldn’t have to worry about stepping on the drain in the middle of the shower.
The toilet drain is either 3 or 4 in and we'll have a Y attached to it, the reverse of that Y is typically your sink and or shower and or tub, because after the toilet it also becomes the main drain line. So to your question you would never cut the toilet drain, beyond that is where you are doing The Cutting
If the new shower is 2 in and old pipe is 1 1/2. Can I put an adaptor on drain, reducing to 1 1/2 and go over to the old drain and p_ trap. The old shower drained ok w/ 1 1/2 pipe. We dont have code where I live.
However you make it happen will definitely work, but I usually try to have as much to in going on as possible so I'm not sure that I would do it directly at the drain... there are adapters called hubs that you can put in at any point on the pipe itself
@StarrTile Thanks. $1200... wow. I might have gone to nearly $1000 but anything over, I'll consider doing myself. I have to move a kitchen sink drain by 24" to match a new counter location. Nice part is it doesn't matter where on the wall the drain is, I just have to move the pony wall, where the drain is, by 24". Interestingly, the drain might actually go back in the direction I'm moving the wall.
@@StarrTile I appreciate the info. I hired a scanning company to scan for the tension cables. My follow-up question is how can you tell during excavation if the area excavated is part of a beam or only slab? Any info is much appreciated!
I build bathrooms, showers and tile work, I'm not a structural engineer nor do I have the capability to know where those cables are at which is why you would hire somebody but as a rule they are usually in condo buildings multi-storey to be exact. More than likely the condo association will have somebody as a point person to evaluate things like that with blueprints and such
Technically, you just created a running trap. Many codes have this type either illegal or requiring one or more clean outs to allow for unclogging. Most codes forbid any offsets above a trap at all, so even a double 45 offset is illegal. Personally, I'd have dug up the trap and extended the distance between the trap and vent. Check local codes for maximum trap to vent distances.
It's well within code of 30" from vent and it's a vertical with no more rise than originally plumbed, same as a vertical lavatory, trap, extention running directly to sewage main... The 2" sweeping 90's would allow for a snake to the trap, assuming that EVER occurs
@@StarrTile not when it offsets above a trap. Once the drain does that, most codes deem that illegal. Like I said, local codes vary. Most code is based on one of a couple national code standards. Codes that do allow running traps usually require a clean out on one or both sides of the running trap.
@@ruelsmith , how much more time and work would it have taken to get to the p-trap to do it to code ?? You make me re-think the entire video now. Thanks for your comments.
What he referred to for code has to do with access for snaking the line...because of the various bends created here it makes it difficult for a snake to hit the trap...otherwise the function of draining water still works.
@@StarrTile , l completely understand it now. Makes sense. Thanks for your explanation. We use a liquid that as it heats up, it melts away any clog. So, all things can be solved with outside the box thinking. ✌🏽
From a concrete perapectice why come am i noy seinh no rebar, or at least mesh wire? Also i would recomend sand on that pipe and coverimg the pipe that touches tje concrete wrapping it around with foam.
When they built the house they are aware that things will need to be renovated in the future and is probably why they specifically left that area with no rebar... and you wouldn't use any kind of foam around the drain area, that would not make it very stable, the concrete needs to be poured up to and around the drain
@@StarrTilethe stability should come from the screws you are supposed to install in those holes. I dont think they should come from the concrete and abs glue only.
Ahha i apologize i jumped the gun. For some reason i thought thia was for a toilet... once i fastforwareed i noticed it was for a shower, a thousand apologis. Thanks for uploading i have learned many thing from your videos.
I live in home with a Post Tension Slab. Cutting trough 4,000 PSI concrete and cutting through the cable ties could cause cracks in your slab. Every Garage that has one of these slabs should have a notice stamped into the concrete next to the garage door. Take it from a real contractor, don't mess with a foundation like this!
Tension wires ( for the most part ) are embedded into multi story condos/office buildings and structures that don't have the ability to have a proper foundation into the ground. I've done showers in condos before and will not disrupt the concrete for the reason you said
Absolutely, in fact I was relegated to do that on a recent job on a condo because I could not move the drain off of the wall , look for that video coming out soon
Technically yes, however you are allowed to extend the drain out up to 30 in from trap and still be within code...plus the stack is directly behind original drain in the wall
The vent is after the ptrap...the best way is to relocate the trap so there aren’t any 90’s. The biggest issue would be possible siphon of the trap water... we call them “s traps”. I doubt there would be any issues here tho. They make a Uniform Plumbing Code, but the comical part is it doesn’t matter and comes down to “the authority having jurisdiction”.
Funny how there's always people out there disputing things that work and argue that they don't. I've been doing running traps on curbless showers for well over a dozen years, never a problem...vs digging below grade to swap out an 1 1/2" trap to a 2" at homeowners expense that'll run in excess of 2k ???? Yeah, No ... not only are they not going to pay that but it is totally unnecessary on extremely off-chance that they ever get a backup needing a snake. It's ok, it'll be fine 👍👌
@@StarrTile check your local plumbing code, I've got 45 yes in plumbing, hold masters in several states. Will it work? Yes untill has to be cleared, then someone else cuts floor. Tile on brother. Job permitted? No
So when people watch a 20 or 30 minute video on RUclips they seem to think they have the whole story of an 8 or 10 day job... I consult with my customer every step of the way, tell them the ins-and-outs, let them know every possible scenario of every possible outcome, when they decline things then I just have to go with them... yes details matter, and all those details are spelled out prior to and during a job. Why so-called experts have to chime in on things that are years old on a video I have no idea, perhaps it's just a way to make you feel better, I don't know.
@@StarrTile like I said tile on, but it very misleading to your viewers to do some work that is totally a scab way. I see I'm not the only one with the same comments. If it were permitted it would never pass inspection period. Enough said, tile on but never in my house.
@starrtile Please do not take Edward Kiker’s comment personal. What he’s saying is 100% accurate. The correct way to do a tub to shower is completely move the trap. You may get away with the install but over time your customers will have issues with stoppages and potential sewer smells from siphonage. I work in service plumbing and see this problem all the time. Customers will be more upset when they find out they have to fix what you already did. Other than that, Love your vids!
![Dimension 20: Never Stop Blowing Up Trailer [Dropout Exclusive Series]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xYeXpbHnGEM/mqdefault.jpg)
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Excellent step by step instruction. I have done a shower to shower conversion before with complete demolition and reconstruction but never a move of a drain. This alleviated my apprehension. Great job!
This couldn’t have come at a better time for me. Thank you
You're most welcome 👌
Man, that is a beautiful end of the job look! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge man!
Thanks you so much.. I was thinking of a DIY but now I'll contract out... at least this part..Great job and Info through out...
Just what I'm looking for thanks so much ❤❤❤
Best way to help somebody out. Thanks.
Excellent video. I was going to contract it out, but this tutorial convinced me to tackle the project. My floor was only 4” so hammering it out was easy. Currently, I’m at the cut/measure/glue stage of the new fittings. Thanks a bunch (saved me, possibly hundreds of $)
Thousands bro. A plumber would charge about 2k to do that
How did it go?
@@vids595 worked out perfect. Shower complete, tiled and dry walled. Last thing left is texture and paint, but we we are fully functional
bro you gave me the push I needed to do this....was despairing today when the pan I bought didn't fit and I can't find one to fit my rough in. Gonna get it next week.@@briangarcia2358
I'm glad it worked out for you! I think we will tackle ours as well.
nice work, great explanation, appreciate your efforts to teach us.
a humbled human
M.
You're welcome👊
Back to StarrTile for some soothing builds. Thanks again for helping me thru my bathroom rebuild last year! All is still well!!
What would you use to cut it if it was cast iron instead of pvc, and what would you use to connect the cast iron to pvc?
A rubber boot to connect...
A sawzaw with carbide blade to cut
Cool video! Thanks for sharing! Super helpful!
This little ruclips.net/user/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
Thank you. Very helpful.
Great video, thanks
I literally spent 7 days Phucing around with the exact same problem...I didn’t move it in the end....thanks now I know how to do it!.....I’ll be redoing my shower again....in a few years
Happy to help 👍
Thanks man you do good videos. Better than most similar ones. Congradulations.
Great vid
beatiful work, i just wondering i did cut the concrete slap and repip the drian, can i just leave the hole on the concrete slap? because i need to put shower base on top also do i need to water proof the concrete slap before i lay the base on? thanks Eric
I like to use a 4&1/2" diamond wheel on my grinder to make those cuts... I use it to cut Hardie-board too.
Hey man exact same way I do it. I do this for a living as well and just a FYI, when installing the upper part to your 2 piece drain you can get a whole lot of adjustment using washers on the four bolts to get that drain perfectly level and it doesn’t hurt a thing if you have to have a gap between the upper part of the drain and the liner
Those drains are also able to be inverted to have ever more clearance.
I really like your video’s and it has helped me understand most tile guys I run into. That being said in California a running trap or S trap refers when the top of the inside trap arm outlet goes below the weir of the trap between the vent and trap. In your case I think all you did was offset the tailpiece which is the distance between the fixture outlet and the trap. Legally in Cali you can offset the tail piece just like the continuous waste for a kitchen sink is offset for a dual sink. However, the offset can not exceed 24” between the fixture outlet and the trap. As for keeping the offset level with no slope is never a good idea because water will stand and odors will form as well as blockages which I come across a lot. You can still run the horizontal offset tail piece at 1/4”/ft because your DWV 90 will compensate the transition since the degree of slope is roughly 1.15 degrees. That being said it’s always better having the trap as much as possible below the fixture outlet this will help reduce odors and reduce stoppages as well. The trap arm on a 2” between the trap and vent can not exceed 5ft. Lastly tub drain to shower conversation in Cali, the complete trap arm and sanitary tee have to be upsized to 2” to meet code.
My home state of California is ridiculous in it's codes, rules, oversight...in virtually all aspects of your life !
Well over 20 years I've lived in Georgia and many things are done & work well without the "rules" that other states insist on....having said that there is international plumbing code ( IPC ) that oversees best practices and they allow I believe up to 18" extention of drain pipe away from trap. Is it ideal that entire set up be 2" on a shower ? Is it ideal drain should be directly above trap ? YES to both, but not practical in 90% of the renovations being done especially on a slab...no one is digging below grade a foot or more to tie into main to insure a 2" continuous drain for a shower. And at the end of the day an 1 1/2" will do the job just fine.
Plumbers don't like the extention because it makes snaking trap harder, but functionally speaking it works.
That looks good bruh
What is pouring the pan exactly ? Is that more cement etc?
Do you need to do anything special on edges of old concrete so new concrete would stick better? Like special glue or such? Thanks
There is enough moisture in the new concrete mix that the two will bond very nicely, but yes there is a concrete primer that is milky type substance that you could get from Home Depot and paint it on to the old surface if you're feeling a certain way about it
Question... Looking to tile a 4'x3' entry with 12x12 cheap ceramic tiles. Floor is 3/4" tongue and groove oak with 1x8 diagonal plank subfloor that feels solid no squeaks (1926 house). Joists are 1x10 16" on center.
Will I be OK screwing down 1/4" hardibacker and then laying the tile?
Also plan on using 1-5/8" backer on screws.. No thinset under the cement board.
Thanks in advance
Yeah it sounds like it will be pretty solid, those extra long screws will be the key..and hardi is a good idea rather than durock, but it has little circles that are 8" apart... if it were me I would try to put some extra screws in where there are voids.
Thank God u made this vid, gotta do my basement bath soon
Glad I could help with some information
@@StarrTile any videos on subway tile chair rails??
No sorry...I just highlight my work and no one has hired me for that. Only glass subway tile, that's on my channel
@@StarrTile its all good, ive made 2 bathrooms over the last 2 yrs off ur videos, so far so good. Keep up the good work!
How did you remove the old drain?
how about if it is just for same drain and just want to update with new tile and drain,. I have a castiron pipe and whin i turn the pipe with rench, im just turn in circles
Do you need to have it inspected before filling over the new line?
That would depend on your local city or county I suppose, but as a homeowner you don't need to be licensed or have anything inspected, of course you would have to live with the end result
Is there a specific type of concrete that you put into the hole? Or any type of concrete? Can I use the dry pack that will be used for the pan?
You will be using concrete, it doesn't matter which one although in this case I use fast dry concrete, you would not, I repeat do not use mortar
Sweet!
Do you have to do a pre-slope underneath the panel liner?
If you waterproof the surface then no
Is that a harbor freight rotary hammer? I was looking at dewalt, hilti, Mikita, and bosch. They’re wayyyy expensive. I kinda want the next size up because I use them to demo tile and wood. Sometimes up to 1200sqft. Haven’t heard of that brand though
Yes it is sold at Harbor Freight and honestly it is the best one out there for the amount you will pay, still have mine working today
Do you still use the wonder cap? Do you still think it's good? Thank you.
No I personally don't use it because it requires a pre-slope, as most people know I don't do pre-slopes.
When it's redesigned to be flush on the floor I'll have a second look.
Can you specify what type of internal pipe cutter ('cowboy spur' in video at 8:36 minutes) you used to cut the cast iron drain pipe?
The inside pipe cutter that looks like a cowboy spur can be found at Home Depot.. I don't know the brand but Home Depot only sells one.
However it can only be used for plastic pipe, cast iron is a whole different thing, that requires a chain cutter or a metal cutting Sawzall blade
Do you have a video for moving the kitchen sink more than 2 feet?
Great video. I wish you would of showed placing the drain and shaping the concrete around it just so people can see the step, as it is important.
Nice!
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I was just wondering why you did not make a 6" curb, possibly an optical illusion. Looks like 3 " curb. I am not sure what state you are in, but I have had problems with a shallow curb.
My curbs are always three two by four... by the time backer board and tile is on it it is right around 5 in
Any concerns about homes with post tension cables in the foundation? Any risk of hitting those when cutting the concrete?
Most homes are not going to have tension lines in the concrete, that's typically for high-rise apartments or high-rise condos, but absolutely positively 100% you need to be cognizant of those cables
@@StarrTile my home has post tension cables in it. Our soil moves a lot where I live. I didn’t see any rebar in your vid. I guess it’s spaced apart more
Is there a minimum depth the P-trap needs to be below the drain?
Prior to them pouring the slab the plumbers will come in and do all their work and back fill it with dirt, then the slab gets poured, so there is no across-the-board depth of a P-trap
If this job was going to get inspected (with permits and be fully legal) do you think the inspector would be okay with leaving the p-trap where it originally was and just a run a drain pipe to it?
Since there is no way to tell how far down the P-trap is, and it wouldn't be logical to swap it out anyway, then yeah no harm no foul.
that's a good question.
Yes it would have taken a bit more digging@@StarrTile
Hello . I installed new shower drain fron the original drain 18 inch. Now the water dont drain
StarrTile, may I ask a laymans question? This is something I do not in general - understand about doing drain systems. There is supposed to be a 'slope' to the drain pipe. either 1/8" per foot, or 1/4" per foot. Where you show the shower drain being fitted and 'leveled' to the short section of drain pipe - you stress the ideal is to have the shower drain be LEVEL. With the shower drain being exactly LEVEL, how is it then possible for the short section of drain pipe to be SLOPED? In other words when the manufacturer created that pipe and long turn 90 degree fitting - I assume that is an EXACT 90 DEGREE fitting. If the fitting is exactly 90 degrees and the top surface of the 90 degree long turn elbow is LEVEL, wouldnt the opposite end be completely HORIZONTAL? as opposed to sloping at 1/8" or 1/4" per foot? And one can see this same question is valid for most any application, draining from a water closet, etc... Can you explain this in laymans terms?
I believe he was saying the top of the new pipe would be flush with the floor not that he is making the whole thing flush. Earlier in the video he was saying that it needs to have a 1/4 inch slope per foot which is why he cut down so low.
This is a really great question. As a welder fabricator it hurts my brain to think about this… lol. How does one achieve a level drain flange with a sloped drain pipe? Anyone else have input?
Excellent question, just what I was thinking about as well. No response, it’s been awhile. Hope we get an answer to this question soon.
Well ideally you want a small slope in the drain pipe as well. Just as long as it's not pivoted 'uphill'. However, being level in this instance is acceptable too, since the water rushes down with quite some speed, this having no issues with draining. So yes, you definitely want a slope towards your drain. And also, yes, it is beneficial to have your drain pipe sloped a bit too. But it isn't the end of the world if it's level: the water will drain either way.
Just glue it and shim it to fit with your slope. It has some give and the glue will dry hard to give the required strength.
Re the tension wire, suppose you come across one on this. How do you work around that?
Carefully....
Honestly though if I knew there were tension wires involved I would either turn the job down outright or consult a structural engineer
@@StarrTile Much obliged. I'm about to change a very stained fiberglass pan w/ a center drain to a Schluter linear drain moving the existing drain about 12". I expect to find rebar but since this home is from 2006 I suspect there are tension wires lurking down there somewhere.
As a rule tension wires are used in high-rise applications like multi-story condos or apartments, usually not in single family dwellings like you would have
Did you put a pre-slope in before the liner?
No, that's an Antiquated Theory, we waterproof the pan surface and all of the shower so the preslope is irrelevant nowadays
Did this to my shower. Pain in the ass but well worth it.
Yes it is a pain but I enjoyed it , it's a deviation for most of my jobs so it gives me something new to do
how about a vid on the tools you use regularly or must have tools
Great idea, I will definitely keep that in mind for an upcoming video
I quote. "Having good tools, not proper tools, because there is no such thing as proper. but having good tools, that,that, makes your job easier..." You want this guy to give you advice on tools?????
@@webcongc pompous much
Rebar in concrete is in the way of p trap for shower should I cut it?
Yep
Camera angle was deceiving. That slab looked like 2 " thick. I was shocked when you said 6" . Tell you what ill come remove that for you if youll come give me a game plan for my shower issue. Deal or no deal? Btw hows the kids face doing?
why not tunnel over to the new drain location?
To be honest, I would have the left a drain where it walls and used the invisible trough that goes from one side to the other side and you wouldn’t have to worry about stepping on the drain in the middle of the shower.
If I was to have a contractor do this, what would be a rough estimate of overall cost for this job?
No way to tell, way too many variables & very subjective
What happen to the bench? I thought you said there would be a bench
Bench is off to the right..then a wall and then a small closet. I'll be showing the full renovation in a few weeks
But how did you cut the existing toilet drain to connect shower drain pipe???
The toilet drain is either 3 or 4 in and we'll have a Y attached to it, the reverse of that Y is typically your sink and or shower and or tub, because after the toilet it also becomes the main drain line.
So to your question you would never cut the toilet drain, beyond that is where you are doing The Cutting
Would this be contracted to a plumber or to a construction company?
Most contractors who build showers would be able to do it, or plumber but you're going to get charged three times as much
If the new shower is 2 in and old pipe is 1 1/2. Can I put an adaptor on drain, reducing to 1 1/2 and go over to the old drain and p_ trap. The old shower drained ok w/ 1 1/2 pipe. We dont have code where I live.
However you make it happen will definitely work, but I usually try to have as much to in going on as possible so I'm not sure that I would do it directly at the drain... there are adapters called hubs that you can put in at any point on the pipe itself
@@StarrTile thank you. Afterwards, i realized i didnt word quite right about drain.
does the drain have to be level with the concrete
Yes the lower part of the two piece drain does if anything maybe a hair below but never above it at all
Roughly how much would a pro charge to do that? And what kind of company does that kind of work? I guess most plumbers don't cut slabs?
Yes plumbers cut slabs all the time, for this job they probably would have charged between 1000 to 1200 or more
@StarrTile Thanks. $1200... wow. I might have gone to nearly $1000 but anything over, I'll consider doing myself.
I have to move a kitchen sink drain by 24" to match a new counter location. Nice part is it doesn't matter where on the wall the drain is, I just have to move the pony wall, where the drain is, by 24".
Interestingly, the drain might actually go back in the direction I'm moving the wall.
What about foundation issues from cutting into foundation with post tension cable slab with beams?
Never ever cut into concrete if you even suspect you have tension cables 😱
@@StarrTile I appreciate the info. I hired a scanning company to scan for the tension cables. My follow-up question is how can you tell during excavation if the area excavated is part of a beam or only slab? Any info is much appreciated!
I build bathrooms, showers and tile work, I'm not a structural engineer nor do I have the capability to know where those cables are at which is why you would hire somebody but as a rule they are usually in condo buildings multi-storey to be exact.
More than likely the condo association will have somebody as a point person to evaluate things like that with blueprints and such
Why not cut the tension wires? Can u explain plz
Slab can collapse.
Technically, you just created a running trap. Many codes have this type either illegal or requiring one or more clean outs to allow for unclogging. Most codes forbid any offsets above a trap at all, so even a double 45 offset is illegal. Personally, I'd have dug up the trap and extended the distance between the trap and vent. Check local codes for maximum trap to vent distances.
It's well within code of 30" from vent and it's a vertical with no more rise than originally plumbed, same as a vertical lavatory, trap, extention running directly to sewage main...
The 2" sweeping 90's would allow for a snake to the trap, assuming that EVER occurs
@@StarrTile not when it offsets above a trap. Once the drain does that, most codes deem that illegal. Like I said, local codes vary. Most code is based on one of a couple national code standards. Codes that do allow running traps usually require a clean out on one or both sides of the running trap.
@@ruelsmith ,
how much more time and work would it have taken to get to the p-trap to do it to code ??
You make me re-think the entire video now. Thanks for your comments.
What he referred to for code has to do with access for snaking the line...because of the various bends created here it makes it difficult for a snake to hit the trap...otherwise the function of draining water still works.
@@StarrTile ,
l completely understand it now.
Makes sense. Thanks for your explanation. We use a liquid that as it heats up, it melts away any clog. So, all things can be solved with outside the box thinking. ✌🏽
Ptrap for toilet is on the toilet. The water in the bowl is to keep the gasses out.
From a concrete perapectice why come am i noy seinh no rebar, or at least mesh wire? Also i would recomend sand on that pipe and coverimg the pipe that touches tje concrete wrapping it around with foam.
When they built the house they are aware that things will need to be renovated in the future and is probably why they specifically left that area with no rebar... and you wouldn't use any kind of foam around the drain area, that would not make it very stable, the concrete needs to be poured up to and around the drain
@@StarrTilethe stability should come from the screws you are supposed to install in those holes. I dont think they should come from the concrete and abs glue only.
Ahha i apologize i jumped the gun. For some reason i thought thia was for a toilet... once i fastforwareed i noticed it was for a shower, a thousand apologis. Thanks for uploading i have learned many thing from your videos.
Why didn't you move the trap?
Where are you located ??
Atlanta
A plumber would have charged thousands but only paid his illegal 100's
I live in home with a Post Tension Slab. Cutting trough 4,000 PSI concrete and cutting through the cable ties could cause cracks in your slab. Every Garage that has one of these slabs should have a notice stamped into the concrete next to the garage door. Take it from a real contractor, don't mess with a foundation like this!
Tension wires ( for the most part ) are embedded into multi story condos/office buildings and structures that don't have the ability to have a proper foundation into the ground. I've done showers in condos before and will not disrupt the concrete for the reason you said
Where r u located in the Atlanta metro?
Cobb County
Would installing a linear drain work as an alternate solution? Would it be easier?
Absolutely, in fact I was relegated to do that on a recent job on a condo because I could not move the drain off of the wall , look for that video coming out soon
Peatrap is supposed to be directly under the drain
By code it can be up to 18 inches away
This is called a running trap not per code would fail inspection .
Technically yes, however you are allowed to extend the drain out up to 30 in from trap and still be within code...plus the stack is directly behind original drain in the wall
@@StarrTile extended with two 45s not 90s cuts the vent doing that.
The vent is after the ptrap...the best way is to relocate the trap so there aren’t any 90’s. The biggest issue would be possible siphon of the trap water... we call them “s traps”. I doubt there would be any issues here tho. They make a Uniform Plumbing Code, but the comical part is it doesn’t matter and comes down to “the authority having jurisdiction”.
stick with tile work, its clear you dont know plumbing code. thats arunning trap, good luck if it ever stops up. move the trap, call a plumber.
Funny how there's always people out there disputing things that work and argue that they don't.
I've been doing running traps on curbless showers for well over a dozen years, never a problem...vs digging below grade to swap out an 1 1/2" trap to a 2" at homeowners expense that'll run in excess of 2k ???? Yeah, No ... not only are they not going to pay that but it is totally unnecessary on extremely off-chance that they ever get a backup needing a snake.
It's ok, it'll be fine 👍👌
@@StarrTile check your local plumbing code, I've got 45 yes in plumbing, hold masters in several states. Will it work? Yes untill has to be cleared, then someone else cuts floor. Tile on brother.
Job permitted? No
So when people watch a 20 or 30 minute video on RUclips they seem to think they have the whole story of an 8 or 10 day job... I consult with my customer every step of the way, tell them the ins-and-outs, let them know every possible scenario of every possible outcome, when they decline things then I just have to go with them... yes details matter, and all those details are spelled out prior to and during a job. Why so-called experts have to chime in on things that are years old on a video I have no idea, perhaps it's just a way to make you feel better, I don't know.
@@StarrTile like I said tile on, but it very misleading to your viewers to do some work that is totally a scab way. I see I'm not the only one with the same comments. If it were permitted it would never pass inspection period. Enough said, tile on but never in my house.
@starrtile Please do not take Edward Kiker’s comment personal. What he’s saying is 100% accurate. The correct way to do a tub to shower is completely move the trap. You may get away with the install but over time your customers will have issues with stoppages and potential sewer smells from siphonage. I work in service plumbing and see this problem all the time. Customers will be more upset when they find out they have to fix what you already did. Other than that, Love your vids!
Talk too much and little demostration
Send me your address and I'll send you a refund
Sorry but your trap is too far from your shower drain,all of the drain waste sticking to the pipe ,you will have a bad smell in your shower.
A shower drain can be up to 17 inches from the P-trap so you are incorrect, with the proper slope everything will go down the way it's supposed to.