The ball in the first drain you showed (but didn't use) is the backflow (backwater) valve. It's stops sewer water from backing up into your house. If you don't have a valve in your system (some are buried in the line with a cleaning access pipe), you can install one in the pipe right at the drain. They are a one way rubber plug with a float that shuts the drain if water is coming in.
Thank you for the helpful information and demonstration! This information will help me with my project. I searched "cut out concrete floor to repair broken pipe" and found your video.
What also works instead of a diamond tipped blade which can get expenesive and you should use water to cool the blade, are abrasive blades that wear down as you cut. They are really cheap. The downside is lots of dust. They do a good job though.
Watched the video, really need to do this in my garage...thought it was really helpful...saw there was a comment about pittsburgh...took a closer look, and didnt realize it was you and that we have met a few times...crazy world...nice video...inspired me to do this!!!
Man, this was great! I need to do this in my house, so I googled "how to" and your video was the first one that came up! Ricky Baltimore with those plumbing skillz!!!!
what would you do if you install back flow protection to prevent sewer backflow from backing up, but after lots of rain, the device block the pipes and people keep using toilets until the pipes fill up and starting backing up?
Am I the only one that noticed that the primer floor drain was opted out mid video 🤣? My guess is he didn't want to fool with running waterlines under the slab.
Nice job........... Question...... I live in a very old house and I believe the waste pipes under the basement floor are either broken or clogged. Can I connect my other upstairs bathroom waste pipe to a floor drain than is nearest to my street sewer line ? Its part of the other side of a "double-block'" house that has not been used.
Would it be common practice for cast iron floor drains to be a ‘Y’ fitting circa 1920s? Mine bends about 18” below floor and sewer gases escape whenever I dump water down.
I was going to say the same thing. Should use a stainless shielded MJ coupling and a coupler torque wrench to pass inspection (technically). Guess it’s his house so 🤷♂️
Plumber here- you just made one of the most common diy mistakes.. You installed a SHOWER drain instead of a Floor Drain- the water will leak around the body of the drain assembly and into the ground. You won’t notice it because you are in the basement. You really needed to install a floor drain with the weep ring/ hole design. For FMI, Google floor drain and shower drain to see what I am explaining.
My drain pipe ended up being deeper than the outlet of the one piece drain by a few inches. It would have been tricky to make it work without cobbling some extra fittings in. The two piece, 3 inch trap fit my situation a lot better.
It was very easy. I have another video showing more specifically the cutting process. I basically just wet cut it to make a clean line to break on and sledged it out. Depending on your thickness and if there is any rebar in it, it could fight you a little more but the process will be the same. Just make sure to plug into a GFCI if you are wet cutting, and wear a respirator because it will still make a good bit of concrete dust which you definitely don't want in your lungs.
Great video. So my situation is a little different. I want to finish my basement but the floor drain has been capped with cement. During the spring, sometimes the ground water seeps in. I am not sure what to do. I'm a little concerned about breaking up the cap and seeing what surprises are in store. Thoughts?
You might need a sump pump and the walls treated with a crystallization water proof product. Hydrostatic pressure can push on the walls from the outside ground and force water in. Hopefully you can find someone in your area that specializes in dry basements.
Thanks! I actually was unable to make the drain with the cleanout work. My buried pipe was too high. Hopefully with the screen on the drain there will really never be a need to snake this one.
The old drain trap was a bell trap, so you could see which want the pipe went with the cover off. With a P trap it is a little tricky since the output can point sideways to the direction of the trap. Most likely it is pointing in the direction the bend of the trap is going though. You can cut a square hole instead of a rectangle if you are unsure.
You would pour water down the drain until the trap is filled and inspect for leaks. You are making sure water is not leaking from the PVC joints or the rubber fitting.
*my floor drain backs up. It's a 3 inches cast iron pipe about 25 years old. I had three different plumbers done their camera thingly, I had the chain knocker service done, hydrojet done and more over, I had the sewer lateral line outside my house, also replaced, but floor drain still backs up once in a while. I am told that I may need to replace the entire pipe under the basement floor with a new 4 inches PVC. That's quite a costly project. Is that the only solution or I can trying something else?* *I have the iron floor drain as you had and it looks kinda broken from the top.*
You can look in the trap and see if it is dry or not. If it is dry, try pouring some water in, in case it just evaporated. If it dissipates within a day or so, it is a leaking trap. You can also smell the drain. If the smell is coming from the drain, it means the trap is not effective... Unless there is a dead mouse or something floating in the trap water.
Something very strange here. When I look down into it, it's just a straight horizontal pipe. Also, when I turn the wash sink on, water flows thru it. Which shouldnt be a thing. This house was built in 1952. I wonder if the trap is located down the line a little? Or maybe there just isn't one? Is that possible? Too bad I can't send pics. The laundry room sink is located right next to the floor drain. You can definitely tell the floor drain has never been replaced but the plumbing for the laundry and sink is pvc and looks kinda newish.
Hi. Thanks for posting this video. This is maybe a dumb question for some, but I can’t seem to get a straight answer from plumbers (was quoted $15 000 for a bathroom reno to add a shower). I already have a toilet and sink in the basement. I want to add a shower and the main basement drain is pretty much where the shower drain should go. The floor is sloped adequately and water flows into the drain no problem. Is it ok to use it as the shower drain as well? I’m planning a wet room type bathroom where the shower is not elevated from the floor and at the same level as the rest of the basement floor.
I don't see any reason why you couldn't. It will be way more drain than what you need for a shower but should work fine. The only possible downside is that any ledge that you put around your shower could act as a dam if you ever did get water in your basement and wanted it to drain. I have a "Pittsburgh Shower" in my basement which is basically just a shower head sticking out of the wall. This was common in the area because the coal miners and steel workers would want to rinse off before entering the main part of the house. Anyways... It has the same kind of drain as the one I replaced on this video.
Cool Stuff Guys Like thank you so much! I won’t be putting a ledge so it should be fine. I’ve thought about the issue of potential damming because of the new walls we’ll build around it though. Should I dig and put in a new drain outside the bathroom that connects to the main drain line?
If you plan on selling your house one day (and it will be sold one day) might want to check with your city and see what permit will be required and often they will guide on what can and cannot be done.
For those reading this question: NO! Floor drains are usually not vented, and a shower drain MUST be vented. Furthermore, the basement's concrete floor/wall/etc can easily handle occasional water exposure but intentional and repeated water exposure (like a shower!) requires use of proper membranes, waterproofing, etc. IT IS NOT AS SIMPLE AS THIS WRITER THINKS!
Hey brother could you help me out? While removing the flange on my basement shower drain by cutting into it using a flat head screw driver and a hammer - I accidentally damaged and scored through 4-5 threads on the riser. Now the standard 2" shower drain flange won't even catch on the threads and I'm stuck with tenants who are on day 2 of no showers. How can I fix the threads inside the riser?
Can probably clean the threads up with a small needle file. Just don't be too rough with it since those files are pretty brittle. Might want to get two in case you break one. They also make special thread restoring files but it would have to pretty closely match the threads per inch of your pipe. I don't think they make a tap that large to follow the threads with.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike Thank you for your prompt response! I managed to find a flange long enough as I made the mistake of purchasing a low profile shower drain. Since all hardware stores are closed and only open for curbside pick up - it's been an absolute nightmare finding a long enough flange. Though I got lucky! Cheers.
@CoolStuffGuysLike Thanks for the video, and especially this point on why...Even though it's 5 yrs on, that height check comment really clarified things and rang a bell in my head for something I'd easily overlook. l now feel like I can tackle this in the 1925 house I recently moved into. It needs a lot of TLC
I hope everyone realizes it’s not that easy lol guy lucked out with thin concrete. Should have poured concrete on your fernco or use a mission coupling.
Yep, that's it! I worked the edge a little with sandpaper to blend it to the old concrete better but that is optional. I kept the concrete damp for a few days to encourage it to cure slowly and gain maximum strength.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike awesome, I am going to replace that floor drain, actually what I am going to do is to replace the piece of 4 inches in diameter cast iron coming from the basement ceiling to the basement floor and the other piece that runs to the wall, the first one is like 6 feet and the one under the concrete toward the wall is like 8 feet and the little pipe that runs to the floor drain that's another 6 or 8 feet i imagine that one should be like 2 inches pipe ( the one that runs to the floor drain)it's kind of challenging, , any advice man?? I got my saw saw , , my concrete cutter , I am open to any advice, I worked with 2 inches pipe before when i replace the pipes that run from kitchen sink to the 4 inches pipe, but this is way more challenging than what I did with the 2 inches pipe, any tips for motivation and encouragement to do this challenging project???
It's going to depend on the plumber and if they run into any complications but I would guess around $400-$500. Some of the scammier places might charge over $1000.
@@CoolStuffGuysLikeThank you so much. I had a plumber quote me $1,500 - $3,000 depending on what they found when they opened up the slab. They were pretty confident the drain/trap was partially collapsed after using a camera and snake. I'm also in Pittsburgh, Ellwood City to be specific. Probably too far north for you to service?
NEVERMIND. Though you were a plumber out of Pittsburgh haha. I appreciate the advice. I might try and attempt to uncover the trap/drain myself to see if I can reduce labor cost.
You aren't using the sledge hammer correctly. You should raise the head of the hammer over your head and allow it to fall by way of gravity. It will accelerate the hammer and strike with a lot more power than lifting the hammer half way and forcing it down. Made the same mistake.
The ball in the first drain you showed (but didn't use) is the backflow (backwater) valve. It's stops sewer water from backing up into your house. If you don't have a valve in your system (some are buried in the line with a cleaning access pipe), you can install one in the pipe right at the drain. They are a one way rubber plug with a float that shuts the drain if water is coming in.
I wanted to do that too but then I watched this video. See what he says at 2:29 ruclips.net/video/KV8Cb97dBSY/видео.html
If the floor drain in the basement doesn't allow backflow, wouldn't the water come up other drains and fixtures?
Very good job demonstrating good safe work practices.
Thank you for the helpful information and demonstration! This information will help me with my project. I searched "cut out concrete floor to repair broken pipe" and found your video.
What also works instead of a diamond tipped blade which can get expenesive and you should use water to cool the blade, are abrasive blades that wear down as you cut. They are really cheap. The downside is lots of dust. They do a good job though.
Watched the video, really need to do this in my garage...thought it was really helpful...saw there was a comment about pittsburgh...took a closer look, and didnt realize it was you and that we have met a few times...crazy world...nice video...inspired me to do this!!!
Haha, hey Jimmy. Glad I could be helpful. It's a small world...
Man, this was great! I need to do this in my house, so I googled "how to" and your video was the first one that came up! Ricky Baltimore with those plumbing skillz!!!!
Haha that is awesome! Ya it was really not too bad of a job.
i guess I'm pretty off topic but do anyone know a good place to watch newly released movies online?
@Cayson Heath Flixportal xD
@Bodhi Arlo Thanks, I signed up and it seems to work :) I really appreciate it!
@Cayson Heath Happy to help xD
what would you do if you install back flow protection to prevent sewer backflow from backing up, but after lots of rain, the device block the pipes and people keep using toilets until the pipes fill up and starting backing up?
He installed a different drain than what he started with... still a decent tutorial.
Noticed that too. His cut wasn't big enough and pipe was running at an angle across. Don't blame him. I would do the same...
I noticed that too !!
Great video! The ball is for flood prevention. Keep up the great content! @2:24 just like me...
wow this is dope this is literally exactly what i need to do thank you and also thank you for going over what ppe u need for this
Good job looks like you are a pretty handy guy
Might have to do this as well to replace the whole pipe, I'm worried the concrete patch will crack, how did yours hold up?
Good work just did one myself. Great inspiration video. Had to use a diamond coated reciprocating blade though.
Am I the only one that noticed that the primer floor drain was opted out mid video 🤣? My guess is he didn't want to fool with running waterlines under the slab.
in pa it illegal to use anything smaller than a 4" trap below ground other than in a bathroom group for a shower.
Nice job...........
Question...... I live in a very old house and I believe the waste pipes under the basement floor are either broken or clogged. Can I connect my other upstairs bathroom waste pipe to a floor drain than is nearest to my street sewer line ? Its part of the other side of a "double-block'" house that has not been used.
Would it be common practice for cast iron floor drains to be a ‘Y’ fitting circa 1920s? Mine bends about 18” below floor and sewer gases escape whenever I dump water down.
Done like a Pro. Good Job (Shelly)
Why didn’t you use the drain at the start of video?
Thanks for showing us this I needed this not sure if I can do ntself but maybe I can do it with help
Shouldn't an underground fernco coupler be shielded with a metal guard?
I was going to say the same thing. Should use a stainless shielded MJ coupling and a coupler torque wrench to pass inspection (technically). Guess it’s his house so 🤷♂️
Plumber here- you just made one of the most common diy mistakes.. You installed a SHOWER drain instead of a Floor Drain- the water will leak around the body of the drain assembly and into the ground. You won’t notice it because you are in the basement.
You really needed to install a floor drain with the weep ring/ hole design.
For FMI, Google floor drain and shower drain to see what I am explaining.
Amazing work. Never knew cutting into the floor would be so easy looking. Would there be any foundation weakening?
it's not. That was thin concrete. It can be much more difficult.
Why did you end up not using that other drain?
My drain pipe ended up being deeper than the outlet of the one piece drain by a few inches. It would have been tricky to make it work without cobbling some extra fittings in. The two piece, 3 inch trap fit my situation a lot better.
Looked like that concrete came out pretty easily!
It was very easy. I have another video showing more specifically the cutting process. I basically just wet cut it to make a clean line to break on and sledged it out. Depending on your thickness and if there is any rebar in it, it could fight you a little more but the process will be the same. Just make sure to plug into a GFCI if you are wet cutting, and wear a respirator because it will still make a good bit of concrete dust which you definitely don't want in your lungs.
Basements don't always have the same thickness as a slab foundation would. A lot of times in older houses these are just there to keep the rats out.
Great video. So my situation is a little different. I want to finish my basement but the floor drain has been capped with cement. During the spring, sometimes the ground water seeps in. I am not sure what to do. I'm a little concerned about breaking up the cap and seeing what surprises are in store. Thoughts?
You might need a sump pump and the walls treated with a crystallization water proof product. Hydrostatic pressure can push on the walls from the outside ground and force water in. Hopefully you can find someone in your area that specializes in dry basements.
Well done video, but that's actually a shower-type drain, with no cleanout with which to bypass the p-trap.
Thanks! I actually was unable to make the drain with the cleanout work. My buried pipe was too high. Hopefully with the screen on the drain there will really never be a need to snake this one.
Great video man! this video was super helpful.
Well done sir.
Why didn't you use the first valve you showed?
What is the approximate length and width of the hole? Also, how tight is tight when screwing down the clamps? I need to do this job. Thanks.
Awesome video!!!
best to set it a few inches below the floor
Thanks for the video
Is there a way you knew what way the pipe was going?
The old drain trap was a bell trap, so you could see which want the pipe went with the cover off. With a P trap it is a little tricky since the output can point sideways to the direction of the trap. Most likely it is pointing in the direction the bend of the trap is going though. You can cut a square hole instead of a rectangle if you are unsure.
very good tutorial, thanks for uploading
Nice job!
Made it look easy
I have a similar floor drain. Do you think it's possible to place a riser off the drain for a washing machine drain?
I got two floor drains so then I could I use this way when there both connected and need changed
Nice work, thank you for sharing.
I noticed at the beginning of the video you showed a "newer pvc trap", but then installed a different drain. Was there a reason for this?
Look at 3:33
The depth of the outlet of the all in one drain probably didn't match the existing pipe depth below the floor
Great job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Only things I don't like is the standing water at the end of the demo and the distraction from the music. Everything else looked good and right to me👍
Nice job.
How would you check for leaks prior to pouring concrete?
You would pour water down the drain until the trap is filled and inspect for leaks. You are making sure water is not leaking from the PVC joints or the rubber fitting.
Good job I would of used a shielded joint.
you would "have" used.....
@@treasuredearth would've
Uh huh eh huh eh huh .....he said joint..eh uh huh huh...shut up Beavis.
Very informative video BUT you did not install the PVC drain shown at 0:20.
Look at 3:33
What type of concrete was used?
What if the pipe is like 4ft deep? I don't want to create foundational issues digging to it.
you won't create any issues digging into the floor. the rest of the floor rests on the dirt and backfill.
*my floor drain backs up. It's a 3 inches cast iron pipe about 25 years old. I had three different plumbers done their camera thingly, I had the chain knocker service done, hydrojet done and more over, I had the sewer lateral line outside my house, also replaced, but floor drain still backs up once in a while. I am told that I may need to replace the entire pipe under the basement floor with a new 4 inches PVC. That's quite a costly project. Is that the only solution or I can trying something else?*
*I have the iron floor drain as you had and it looks kinda broken from the top.*
you need to install a check valve
@@jacksplumbingvideos7147
But if the water backs up, where will it go? Will the toilet in the basement bubble up?
@@khaleefax9553 it should not have enough pressure to do that. you could get a check valve for the whole house to be safe.
@@jacksplumbingvideos7147
OK, and the check valve for the whole house will be installed where? Do you know of any brand or models? Thanks
@@jacksplumbingvideos7147
Are we talking about something like this?
ruclips.net/video/k-r_PPgh80E/видео.html
Question: how did you know for sure it was a leave trap that was causing the smell and not something else.
Really great video, I just subscribed
*leaky trap
You can look in the trap and see if it is dry or not. If it is dry, try pouring some water in, in case it just evaporated. If it dissipates within a day or so, it is a leaking trap. You can also smell the drain. If the smell is coming from the drain, it means the trap is not effective... Unless there is a dead mouse or something floating in the trap water.
Something very strange here. When I look down into it, it's just a straight horizontal pipe. Also, when I turn the wash sink on, water flows thru it. Which shouldnt be a thing. This house was built in 1952. I wonder if the trap is located down the line a little? Or maybe there just isn't one? Is that possible? Too bad I can't send pics. The laundry room sink is located right next to the floor drain. You can definitely tell the floor drain has never been replaced but the plumbing for the laundry and sink is pvc and looks kinda newish.
If this type of problem aries in first floor.. how can someone solve . Plz give me ... Suggested..
bang on not much bs talking.👍
What size pipe are you using? 3 or 4 inch? Thanks.
It is a 3 inch. A 4 inch trap is a LOT larger the hole is about 1 foot by 2 feet.
Hi. Thanks for posting this video. This is maybe a dumb question for some, but I can’t seem to get a straight answer from plumbers (was quoted $15 000 for a bathroom reno to add a shower). I already have a toilet and sink in the basement. I want to add a shower and the main basement drain is pretty much where the shower drain should go. The floor is sloped adequately and water flows into the drain no problem. Is it ok to use it as the shower drain as well? I’m planning a wet room type bathroom where the shower is not elevated from the floor and at the same level as the rest of the basement floor.
I don't see any reason why you couldn't. It will be way more drain than what you need for a shower but should work fine. The only possible downside is that any ledge that you put around your shower could act as a dam if you ever did get water in your basement and wanted it to drain. I have a "Pittsburgh Shower" in my basement which is basically just a shower head sticking out of the wall. This was common in the area because the coal miners and steel workers would want to rinse off before entering the main part of the house. Anyways... It has the same kind of drain as the one I replaced on this video.
Cool Stuff Guys Like thank you so much! I won’t be putting a ledge so it should be fine. I’ve thought about the issue of potential damming because of the new walls we’ll build around it though. Should I dig and put in a new drain outside the bathroom that connects to the main drain line?
If you plan on selling your house one day (and it will be sold one day) might want to check with your city and see what permit will be required and often they will guide on what can and cannot be done.
For those reading this question: NO! Floor drains are usually not vented, and a shower drain MUST be vented. Furthermore, the basement's concrete floor/wall/etc can easily handle occasional water exposure but intentional and repeated water exposure (like a shower!) requires use of proper membranes, waterproofing, etc. IT IS NOT AS SIMPLE AS THIS WRITER THINKS!
Hey brother could you help me out? While removing the flange on my basement shower drain by cutting into it using a flat head screw driver and a hammer - I accidentally damaged and scored through 4-5 threads on the riser. Now the standard 2" shower drain flange won't even catch on the threads and I'm stuck with tenants who are on day 2 of no showers. How can I fix the threads inside the riser?
Can probably clean the threads up with a small needle file. Just don't be too rough with it since those files are pretty brittle. Might want to get two in case you break one. They also make special thread restoring files but it would have to pretty closely match the threads per inch of your pipe. I don't think they make a tap that large to follow the threads with.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike Thank you for your prompt response! I managed to find a flange long enough as I made the mistake of purchasing a low profile shower drain. Since all hardware stores are closed and only open for curbside pick up - it's been an absolute nightmare finding a long enough flange. Though I got lucky! Cheers.
Why didn’t you use the drain with the clean-out?
I couldn't make it work with the height of my drain pipe under the concrete, so I had to make a custom trap.
@CoolStuffGuysLike Thanks for the video, and especially this point on why...Even though it's 5 yrs on, that height check comment really clarified things and rang a bell in my head for something I'd easily overlook. l now feel like I can tackle this in the 1925 house I recently moved into. It needs a lot of TLC
How the hell did you get the actual drain cover off when it's stuck on or painted anyone?
Stick a screwdriver in one of the holes and pry it out. All mine are pretty loose and have not been painted in place.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike tried that broke the drain currently going at it with a chisel.
I hope everyone realizes it’s not that easy lol guy lucked out with thin concrete. Should have poured concrete on your fernco or use a mission coupling.
thinking same thing..most floors are 4 in thick and he should have used a 4 band clamp..
pretty sure that fernco is a violation. certainly the whole thing needs to be in a metal sleeve, no?
Awesome, nice vid!
Thanks! The drain project worked out to be pretty easy.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike when the concrete was dry all you had to do was trim the plastic , right??, cool video
Yep, that's it! I worked the edge a little with sandpaper to blend it to the old concrete better but that is optional. I kept the concrete damp for a few days to encourage it to cure slowly and gain maximum strength.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike awesome, I am going to replace that floor drain, actually what I am going to do is to replace the piece of 4 inches in diameter cast iron coming from the basement ceiling to the basement floor and the other piece that runs to the wall, the first one is like 6 feet and the one under the concrete toward the wall is like 8 feet and the little pipe that runs to the floor drain that's another 6 or 8 feet i imagine that one should be like 2 inches pipe ( the one that runs to the floor drain)it's kind of challenging, , any advice man?? I got my saw saw , , my concrete cutter , I am open to any advice, I worked with 2 inches pipe before when i replace the pipes that run from kitchen sink to the 4 inches pipe, but this is way more challenging than what I did with the 2 inches pipe, any tips for motivation and encouragement to do this challenging project???
@@CoolStuffGuysLikeby the way I am watching a bunch of videos, that's how I found yours , thanks for the video!!!
awesome
oh god. please don't use a normal circular saw as a wet saw.... might as well bring the toaster into the bathtub too.
Looks like it worked.
If you plug said toaster into a gfci like he did, it is safe to take into the bathtub.
That’s a thin concrete pad
How can i call you?
Theres different ways with another one.
Any idea/range how much this should normally cost from a plumber? It would really help.
It's going to depend on the plumber and if they run into any complications but I would guess around $400-$500. Some of the scammier places might charge over $1000.
@@CoolStuffGuysLikeThank you so much. I had a plumber quote me $1,500 - $3,000 depending on what they found when they opened up the slab. They were pretty confident the drain/trap was partially collapsed after using a camera and snake. I'm also in Pittsburgh, Ellwood City to be specific. Probably too far north for you to service?
NEVERMIND. Though you were a plumber out of Pittsburgh haha. I appreciate the advice. I might try and attempt to uncover the trap/drain myself to see if I can reduce labor cost.
@Nick J Drains, Clogs, backed up Logs...Matt Mertz!!!
@@williamdaniels9728 I'm in Michigan and these are the figures I was quoted as well
You aren't using the sledge hammer correctly. You should raise the head of the hammer over your head and allow it to fall by way of gravity. It will accelerate the hammer and strike with a lot more power than lifting the hammer half way and forcing it down. Made the same mistake.
I have very short ceilings in the basement. Had to muscle the hammer a little more rather than run the risk of bashing the ceiling.
Low ceiling. You can hear he hits it at least once.
How do u know if it was leaking or not before pouring concrete? 😂😂😂
You put water in it. Lol. PVC and fernco connections are pretty reliable as far as getting sealed goes though so it's not much of a worry.
@@CoolStuffGuysLike usually you bung a drain off before backfilling and check for leaks mate
dude, the drain was installed so poorly, that when spraying water directly into it, the water drains away
don’t do what he did!! so wrong!!
What type of concrete was used?