How to remove a cast iron lead joint (Revised/Re-edited)
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2020
- Yes, this is time consuming. This is useful when cutting out fittings is not an option. In this video we are demonstrating how to remove a cast iron lead joint. Since we have been getting better at RUclips we decided to remake the old cast iron lead joint removal video, both parts are now one video also with the minimum amount of footage removed. Also check out the new revised version of our drowned water heater video link will be down below as well as in the end screen. Please leave a comment and will answer any questions you have, Thank you!
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This is a real plumbing, ladies and gents. No shinny tools, no clean shirts - all just dirt, dust, rust, and heavy work - all in 16" of space under the house. Thank you for showing it how it is.
Love these dudes that go through the trouble to film and upload a procedure and then skip the hardest part of the procedure. Hello!!! That's the part we struggle with! LOL
After 5 and 1/2 minutes of drilling you skip over actually taking the old piece out???
This comment saved me 4.5 mins.
Best believe that was done on purpose!
Would a propane soldering torch soften up the lead, just enough heat to pull out iron sleeve?
they edited the best part
They didn't want to show the part where they had to put the torch on it for another hour either that or they drilled holes for another hour and a half
Bro. Thanks for cutting the part of the video we all came here for...
Drilling out the lead in Oakham is an absolutely wonderful way to remove cast-iron pipe from the hub. Worked a lot easier than I thought. Excellent video, very helpful
Next time get a hole saw larger than the pipe and smaller than the hub, and use the hole saw to remove the lead. It takes about 2 minutes and you will have it done...
I rarely work with lead
This is the tip I was looking for
Thanks 🙏
A trick to make it extremely easy to get the new PVC piece into the rubber donut is to cut a notch into the pipe about an inch wide and an inch deep and bevel the inside edge of the notch slightly. Can all be done with just a sawzall. Put the pipe in the donut with the notch facing up and it'll slide right in every time. Once the notch is fully in the donut, it'll snug up and you can smack it in with a hammer from there as usual, the notch just helps get it started. That was a trick I learned rather recently from a fellow old-school master plumber. I used to do it just like this and bevel the whole outer edge and lube the hell out of it but the notch makes it so much easier. Don't even need lube or anything.
I’ll definitely give that a try. I was blessed to be taught by a couple older plumbers close to retirement who were way past the “he’s gonna take my job” to dumping as much knowledge in my head they could. Sent me home with a headache most days!! Thanks for the tip!
so no concerns about this separating? I know drains aren't under any great pressure, just surprised there's no clamp or cement to replace the lead.
@@phantom12321800 There is a steel clamp that goes over the rubber that tightens with a couple of hose clamps.
Cut a notch in the steel?
@@michaelrothman4602 No, the new PVC pipe
Thanks. This gives me an idea of what my plumbers will be doing - digging up my basement floor, and replacing 10' of sewer pipe from the kitchen lateral pipe - or maybe replacing all 65 feet in the basement floor, depending on what they find - and then repaving the floor.
Thank you. This video saved me. Had to change my main sewer pipe and the connection at the road had no cast iron pipe to attach to, only the joint itself. Worked perfectly.
Thanks for your video! Helped me accomplish the same issue. After I had the old cast iron pipe and most of the lead out of the hub tho, I hit the hub with a 2 3/4" cupped wire wheel on my 4" grinder. Had to help some of the wires into the hub with a screwdriver to get it fully in the hub. Cleaned and smoothed the inside of hub up extremely well but made a nasty dust cloud. I also got the
soaped fernco doughnut inside the hub relatively easy pushing it in while hub was still pretty warm from melting the lead, but not hot enough to melt the rubber. Thanks for your help!
Glad to hear it worked for you Watertown!!
Awesome job guys this was soo !informative and helpful keep up the good work, this will help me to complete a basement shower/bathroom remodeling project thanks for the information 👍
Very interesting, us electricians don't have them kind of problems!
Nice video, sometimes you just have to stay after it.
Thank you thank you thank you....I just had the same problem with the liquid lead added round the pipe.... Yes easy to remove... Thanks to you buddy
Thank you so much, that tricked saved me a lot of headaches. You’re the man!
if i could give a thousand thumbs up i would.
I ran into this problem on a job today and was in a jam on HOW to remove the lead ( heat didn't work) . and what fittings to use to join the PVC.
Thanks a ton !!
Very professional and informative. So nice to see the 'next generation' in the succession pipeline.
It’s worked for us. Thanks for the tip.
Very good video excellent job. Thanks for making it.
Your the man!! Just the video I needed …
Very helpful watched video in oz I’m about to tackle the same project
I’m adding a second toilet on to my stack
Thanks again
Good luck Joe and thank you!
Awesome work. Over in my neck of the woods these new guys are stretching ferncos/cantex over the hubs...it ends up causing a cavity and gunky build up but of course it takes a while then I find it and have to ty seal it like this or cut it off so that the cast iron and PVC can be squared up clean and joined with plain "fernco" coupling.
We’ve encountered what your talking about and it’s issues. Glad to hear you’re doing it the right way. The plumbing trade needs lots of that! While I have you RUclips terminated this channel for violating community guidelines but we’re not even sure why. All I can do is respond to comments here. We’re still making videos if you’re interested. Lots of links in the comments .
Notch the cast hub with a grinder, approx 2-4 locations, carefully to not place notch to deep, notching the cast pipe itself. Once it's notched, each piece,also the lead sleeve will be removable within entire sleeve/1-piece lead, very easily removed. Secondary would be sawzall with cast iron new blade, same process as within notching, secondary choice due to any near by neighboring lead joints usually will begin to leak, due to the vibration sawzall creates. Once hub is removed, you now have a flush end to work with, no-hub band your repair, and-or spot repair replacement. Much better joint than any id/inside diameter joint sleeve adapter. Due to id/inside diameter adapters create a lip inside the drain line, that catches debris within.
Great video. Very intelligent way to work. Congrats
Not all cast iron hubs are the same, and not all rubber donuts are the same. Although your pvc connection the donut is tight doesn't mean your donut to the cast iron is tight. I recommend putting silicon around the donut that will make up for any imperfections on the connection to give it a better seal.
Thanks for the feedback Johnson! I normally would agree with you...but we’re near Charlotte where Charlotte Pipe is located so most of the cast iron pipe and fittings we see are Charlotte pipe and the donuts we use are “Charlotte seals” that are also made by Charlotte Pipe and still used in new commercial installs. I’ve ran loads of push joint cast iron in new schools and healthcare jobs during my career. We have to test those just like pvc systems and only use pipe lube (camel snot if you live around here) to complete the joints. If your using a donut from one manufacturer and a fitting from another I imagine you’re correct.
Tye seals are a huge pain
Camel Snot? You mean Duck Butter.
@@justen7994 yes sir try the 10” and up not fun
Joy jelly?
really good content Plumb 4 U Plus More, LLC. I crushed that thumbs up on your video. Continue to keep up the terrific work.
Red Beard...we’re quite the beard fans around here as well!! Thanks for the thumbs up. Unfortunately this channel got terminated so all we can do is comment. Please check our our new channel we’re all these videos are duplicated and we’re still uploading new ones!!
ruclips.net/video/V6fPuBD9jyI/видео.html
@@plumb4uplusmorellc533 No problem at all, always happy to support my fellow content creators. I am looking forward to improving on my own current video format I have uploaded and, in the future, trying to create content as good as yours in the long-term............sorry to hear about the terminated channel. Sounds good. will do.
Thanks for the video!
Thank you. This will be helpful to me
Thank you worked great
Thank you for the video.
You’re welcome Hames thanks for watching! If you like this sort of thing check out our new channel we were forced to create because RUclips terminated this one. The only thing we can do here is respond to comments.
When changing cast iron pipes should that rubber piece go in all the pipes when reconnecting with pvc?
This is great but I have a 3inch hub Y that I am trying to remove the lead in but it’s up in the wall near the ceiling. I’m trying to attach a 2in shower drain to it with a donut. It’s in a confined space. Maybe can get in there with a drill. Any ideas??
Do you not have to glue to rubber donut in or is there enough compression to hold it.
I wonder if a 4 1/8” hole saw would work too ?!
What type of rubber adapter was that and where you get it. Thanks
Good job guys
Thank you sir!
If you use a pipe strap to turn it while you press it will go in easier. Also grease the tye seal
great stuff !!!
Where did you get that flashlight? It looks very useful.
Thank you!! 👍
I usually cut a 1" section out of the pipe going into hub towards the top of the fitting and then another cut to remove half the pipe in hub. Then I take a hammer and break out the cast pipe that is remaining. Then with a flat screw driver and hammer collapse the lead ring and remove the oakum. Lead is saved to either repour or save for another job.
Any video on how to replace a 4 foot vertical section with same cast iron ; instead of converting to plastic ?
Educational and impressive. Was that live or was that memorex?
Question where did you find the coupling
Javier you’re correct that fitting is illegal now but we didn’t have plumbing code here until the 80’s. If I were to guess I think this place was built somewhere in the 60’s. Most houses around here are piped with a stack with a sanitary tee in its back with a cleanout, all other lines run into that stack with additional San tees with the 3 or 4 inch vent being the one right below the toilet which usually sweeps up in the wall catching the lavatory on the way out the roof. The stack usually lines up with the toilet.
The way you dumped all that lead into the soil is probably why it's illegal... Put a bag under it to catch the lead chips instead of contaminating the soil.
Otherwise thanks for the video. My whole house is cast iron that has to go.
@@court2379 Do you know how much lead is used and shot - that little bit isn't anything sigh
@@wg7644 There is a difference between it being scattered all over the wilderness and it being concentrated in a few spots around your house. If it is anywhere that gets foot traffic it can get picked up as dust and make its way into your house where it gets breathed and swallowed thru flem, or settles on things you touch and eat. If you have a well nearby it can leach into your water supply (though surface water generally shouldn't get in). I believe some plants can also pick it up if you garden and then eat those plants.
Tiny amounts, but over 20 years can start to matter. Though any house that has cast iron piping also has lead paint, and the flakes of it landing all around the house is probably far worse.
It's a small risk, but why not be a little more careful and eliminate it entirely.
@@court2379 I've been around awhile. America's true health issues are about consuming too much food - there is a band wagon that needs to go forward.
@@wg7644 While I agree with your statement, I don't see what is has to do with needlessly contaminating the soil around a house?
@Plumb 4 U Plus More, LLC -- What brand and size drill bits were you using?
Matt I usually use 1/4” and I’m sure it’s just whatever bit Lowe’s had on sale. It’s very easy to break bits doing this so have extra. Bit quality isn’t a bit deal lead is very soft. Also this channel is terminated for violating one of RUclips rules but I don’t even know which one. All we can do is comment here. Please check out our new channel where we’re still making videos. ruclips.net/video/V6fPuBD9jyI/видео.html
How did you remove all the leftover lead in the pipe after removing the old section?? Grind? Heat? Video was cut right at that part lol! Please let us know.
Where did you get the rubber insert ?
I see how short you cut the pipe before starting with the drill. What about if you inserted a recip saw with a metal blade into that short section of pipe and make cuts in several segments of the pipe (now nipple). Then with enough of the nipple sticking up, bang in towards the center of the nipple until its collapsed inward. Just a suggestion a friend gave me as I am considering that or your method in the video.
Save your drill bits by setting your screw gun torque to 3 to 4 steps under drill on the chuck. Lead is soft it will still drill it but if you bind the bit that will save it rather than have it snap
Take it out like it was put in . Heat ! It’s that simple . Poured a lot of lead in my days vertical and horizontal.
The redundancy of these comments is astounding. I’m replying from my other channel I’m not even gonna change log in to respond. This is under a tri plex where two of the three residents are on oxygen. Your caveman tourch tactics are not appropriate for this situation. That’s why this is rare any numskull plumber can melt lead with a torch or any other caveman tactic. This is my 23 or 24 yr plumbing, 10 yrs of which was for the largest medical system in the Carolinas where melting lead with a torch is not an option…sometimes that would be an appropriate option but not in this case. What would be yours or anyone else’s snarky know it all solution to your torch removing all the original tar coating on the pipe…you know the stuff that protects the porous cast iron from rust, degradation, and leaks?
Thanks for posting this. i'm about to tackle removing a cast iron pipe from its hub in my basement tomorrow and this is one of the few videos i've been able to find that shows how clean out the lead without melting it. i'm curious - what kind of grease did you use? i can imagine the wrong kind might degrade the donut over time
A general pipe lube should work fine, I think we used silicone or silicone grease in this occasion I can’t remember exactly. As far as I know silicone doesn’t degrade the neoprene the donut is made from like true rubber gaskets used in the past.
@@plumb4uplusmorellc533 I am doing this right now on 2 shower drains. The removal section of your video, drilling out the lead, was very helpful to me, thanks for posting that. I called Fernco technical support and they said to only use soap for a lubricant, like dishwashing liquid soap. I am not sure about other things that maybe safe to use, but that is what they told me.
Thanks Solar Eclipse Timer...we have a once in a lifetime solar convergence coming up tonight between Saturn and Jupiter hopefully you’ll get a chance to see it. Back to plumbing thanks for the recommendation from fernco!! I’ve used a lot of things to lube gaskets over the years but never used dish soap. I’ll have to give that a shot. Thanks
Duck butter
Beacon grease 😅
Hi! What lube did you use?
finally a real plumber.
Seeing this possibly
Resolved my entire issue. What is keeping the pipe fitted tight into the cast iron pipe. I have this situation but I’ll have to get buried with gravel and concrete Bc it’s under a slab. That rubber won’t slide out of the cast iron pipe? Maybe I’m missing something . Tnx
The inner diameter of the gasket is slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the pipe and likewise the outer diameter of the gasket is slightly larger than the inner diameter of the hub so when you push the pipe in it puts pressure on the joint both ways. That being said it can be pushed back out of the joint with the same pressure it was push in with so be careful during backfill. Also please subscribe to our new channel where we’re still doing videos. All we can still do on this one is reply to comments. ruclips.net/channel/UC1-RtPJegbm-DW-A7HdaRmw
Jack’s I’ll give that a try next time.
@Caleb Ahmir Yes it took some time and not right for every situation but worked great for this particular job. If you like this sort of thing visit our new channel where we’re still making videos. This channel was terminated by RUclips without warning so all we can do is respond to comments. This is a link to our latest video. ruclips.net/video/xhpnCem6fkM/видео.html
I just replaced a 2" lead pipe. I used your tips. Most important, I had no room to tP the abs into the donut. Recalling u used a shovel, i bought a piece of black pipe, tapped it into dirt and levered the pipe in. It worked beUtifully since there was no room for a shovel.
Glad it helped!!
Dave I always forget this...this channel got terminated because of violating community guidelines. I got no strikes or warnings and they won’t even tell me what I did. Here’s a link to our new channel. ruclips.net/channel/UC1-RtPJegbm-DW-A7HdaRmw
I'm glad I came to the comments before I watched the whole video just to get disappointed. Also, have you heard of a mission band?
How is it that the cast iron is so rust free ???? Does the age of the pipe when made make a difference Sir ??
My grandpa always used cooking lard and a mini torch to heat up the lead for it to come out faster
thank you.
We’re still making videos on our new channel if you like this sort of thing. The channel tour on now got terminated without warning or strikes by RUclips. Please visit our new channel at the link below. ruclips.net/video/xhpnCem6fkM/видео.html
What’s wrong with cutting the hub off and attaching a 4 inch rubber coupling?
Just asking, but would it not have been easier to slide the rubber flange on the 5 " PVC piece first and then slide them onto the cast iron piping?
Great question Rick…That actually won’t work because if you put the gasket on the 4” pvc first it actually expands it too much to fit into the cast iron hub. If you put it into the cast iron hub then push the PVC in then the ribs on the inside and outside of the gasket compress both inwardly and outwardly sealing against both surfaces. By the way this channel was terminated by RUclips only allowing us to respond to comments but we’re still making videos on our new channel here ruclips.net/video/Db2lOKs6e2o/видео.html
Thanks 🙏
What’s holding the rubber to the cast iron
Just Curious, Can you just heat the lead solder joint up real hot and twist the old piece out? I can do it on copper joints.
Your going to be there a long time and you have to keep scraping the lead with a screwdriver to keep it shiny so it will melt better I'd suggest using using the drill like he did and then if you have to torch it go ahead but if you haven't experienced it burning okum is horrible
Can this technique be used below grade?
What was the lube that you put on the stub? Also, it looks like you beveled the stub. Right?
We used silicone because it’s what we had. The best lube according to fernco which was provided by another viewer is water and dish soap which a lot of us have as leak detector on our trucks anyway. Also yes I beveled the pipe with a grinder and a flap disk. It makes a huge difference than not beveling. Also since this project I did a small job at a pharmaceutical factory which required the pipe and fittings to have an extremely high chemical resistance. The material we used was josam stainless push fit sanitary pipe and fittings with epdm gaskets (the same material the Charlotte seal I used is made of). Point being the silicone shouldn’t cause any degradation which is so thing other viewers were concerned about. Good luck and thanks for watching!!
I use a hole saw slightly larger than the pipe. Takes maybe a minute and it comes right out
it never occured to me you could connect to cast iron this way. i might have to try this sometime.
Is it necessary to clean out cast iron before gasket insert is pushed in? Just so you know, it is difficult to hear/understand much of what you're saying throughout this video... Thank you for the info
Seymore that’s a great question. Once the lead is removed behind it is oakum which fills the void between the outside of the pipe and the inside of the hub. Depending on how tightly the oakum is packed you can sometimes wiggle the pipe out and other times have to pull it out with needle nose pliers or a screwdriver. The pipe should come out in one piece and the oakum should separate from the hub fairly easily. You would need to make sure none of the residual oakum would keep the new seal from contacting the hub. Also sorry about the volume this was one of our first videos...we’ve learned a lot since then. Check it out on our new channel multiple links are in the comments
If cut the pipe with a Sawzall at 2 points, like a pie, the old pipe comes out much easier. Just be very careful not to cut into the flange.
could you use a hole saw?
Maybe im way off but i would have replaced that whole cast iron T connection, cut the top and sides. Might have actually been less work and it resolves future issues.
What is the name of this rubber?????ci joint rubber? Plz reply
Perfect good worck
I used my propane torch melted right out on horizontal pipe right condition all safety taken in to account
Im trying to remove a 1.5 galvanized pipe thats jointed to a cast iron elbow, at first i thought it was just
threaded, but as i tried spinning it off its just keeps spinning, and it spins freely both directions. Is your video demonstration the thing im dealing with?
Johnny it’s very likely that that the galvanized is leaded in just like the joint we did in the video. That was common practice in our areas (NC) at least. If it’s 1-1/2 in a 2” hub you can probably use a larger diameter bit than a 1/4” like we used in the video. Good luck!
@@plumb4uplusmorellc533 you are absolutely correct. I ended up doing as you did in the video, drilling and using the gasket donut,
what a bitch it was for me, the hub was next to a foundation riser, drilling at an angle while keeping my wrist straight so that the bit went in straight, last thing i wanted was to damage the wall of the hub.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. Im going to hit the subscribe. Looking forward to more content!
@@dannydee9919 if your going to subscribe please subscribe to our new channel here ruclips.net/video/QJNFcBEVmPY/видео.html. All we can do on this channel is respond to comments. We violated RUclips community guidelines somehow so we had to start a new one.
@@plumb4uplusmorellc533 done!subscriber number 26th!
A plumbing channel Violateing youtubes community guidelines? That's a first. Did you guys forget to edit out the "plumbers crack"?? Lol .jk.
Usually, Depends upon the occupancy, on the rubber gasket we wear a mask use a wire wheel in a drill , clean the inside of the pipe where the gasket slides into , next , put nice layer of iHercules blue block on the inside of pipe , a little on the gasket, she slides in nice and is leak proof , yes even on the lip / rim . Wear gloves as a this stuff is messy, and tuff to get off. Next needless to say, we dry fitted everything before we permanently installed, this , made all our cuts for the other fittings ,preassembled what ever we could , while our gasket and small section of pvc is drying , If we can we wait appropriately 2 1/2 hours of set up time of the gasket , we come back from our break , or from other work in the building or else where , then come back and finish up. Never any problems, just wear disposable gloves, as the blue block is great, but hard to get off , Great product, this severs two purposes, it acts like a lubricant and it is a permanent seal for the second benefit, you did a great job , this is just an alternative method. 👍.
Thanks Mike!!
Use a carbon toothed hole saw bit next time. It will shred right through the lead. Diablo, lennox and Spyder make good ones
Good
What a pain on the behind, but it seems that it is the way 😜. 👍👍
What is that rubber called
Another way to remove the joint is to use a torch melt out the lead then wiggle the pipe out of the hub
Minute 7:12 : I was always taught when cutting pvc, to grab from the longest side.
People think its bip- bop in ; not I had to fabricate this to fit and thats why it was 750- or whatever
Just did a job yesterday going from 4" hub to 3" pvc with a donut. Talk about a pain. They won't be able to dynamite that fitting apart now.
Those transition donuts are super tough especially when cold. Also if you’ve read any other comments on our channel you’ll see that RUclips has terminated our channel for severe violations of their community guidelines. They won’t tell us what the violations was and have denied multiple appeals. We’ve started a new channel and hope you can join us there. All we can do on this channel is respond to comments and the content will remain up for now.
@@plumb4uplusmorellc533 that's obsurd! I'll definitely follow the other channel
ruclips.net/channel/UC1-RtPJegbm-DW-A7HdaRmw
Still using PVC? What about o'ring plug pipes?
Great video. Couldn’t really hear what toy were saying about drilling though
Did you guys just file the edge of the pipe or sand it? Also, thats just regular Plumber's Grease, right?
Probably listened to Dr. Ruth and used KY.
We used a flap disc and a grinder. We used silicone for lube because we had it on the truck. A mild dishwashing liquid or plumbers grease affectionately referred to as camel snot around here.
Your going through that much trouble. Cut out the San tee on its back and replace with new comby. Looks like you had a ton of room to cut from top and band onto and same on other side??
Now when a cleanout is installed outside. They will have to climb all the way on the roof or pull the toilet and snake downstream to miss that wye you put in. Lmao.
Interesting. Say, did you support the joint you just added PVC too? I didn’t see that?
what size drill bit is best?
It depends on how wide the lead gap it’s. Usually 1/4” but you don’t want the bit to catch the pipe or hub or it’ll snap the bit in half quickly.
Get yourself an old electric charcoal starter like what the kid put on the door knob in home alone works great only take like 5 minutes.
Am I crazy or is the connection on top going left of where he was working cracked on bottem??
I feel like just switching the whole thing to a PVC T would have been faster and more economical.
In NY a plumbers time is more exp then the material
You should of put a chafer on the end of the plastic pipe, to get itin easyier.
What did you bevel the pipe with
Cordless grinder and flap disk
I liked this. Tennessee?
Close...North Carolina. Accent almost gave us away. If you like this sort of thing check out the new channel we started after RUclips terminated this one. All we can do here is reply to comments. Thanks ruclips.net/video/V6fPuBD9jyI/видео.html