Looks great! Not that my opinion matters but, I would suggest on your next project using the self tapping pan head screws to go at a 45° angle on the top lip of the pan, into the wood studs, and not through the fiberglass itself, which could cause the fiberglass to crack and water could leak into your walls.
Seriously ... I've been looking on the RUclipss for someone to show a demo of putting a mortar base under a shower for so long so I can see the consistency. This is actually my next step in my basement project -- hopefully this next week. I'm also using the Dreamline Slimline shower base and an Oatey drain. Thanks for the video. I bought 2 bags of the mortar, having no clue how much I actually need and not wanting to be too short and wishing I had more. I'm having challenges getting my inside-the-drain rubber gasket to fit... Also, the RUclips algorithms showing me this video a day after you published it are kind of crazy... But I guess useful. Good video. Thanks for the walk-through.
Great timing since I just released the video yesterday! The rubber drain part does get tight for sure, especially if the drain is crooked or anything. A flathead can help work it around but be careful. Thanks for checking it out and good luck!
the plastic and window flashing is a great idea! I'm renovating a bathroom that looks like it went in in the 70s, and honestly, the entire bathroom to this day is still REALLY solid, EXCEPT for water damage to the drywall and subfloors around the acrylic shower, so I will definitely be using these tricks when I replace them (especially since MY work is not going to be anywhere near as solid as the original builders... need all the extra help I can get)
Hey brother Thanks i do this for a living and the plastic at the front was a good idea. Tip for mixing put 1/2 of the water on the bottom before adding the mortar .. just helps with mixing all and all great job
As a newb to plumbing and scanning youtube on how to install alcove shower pans i'm finding it interesting how no one actually shows how to connect the new drain to the existing plumbing. i would think this would be a pretty important instruction. everything else seems to be pretty common sense. not bashing the video just making an observation.
I noticed the same thing. Especially no videos showing how to connect one to a concrete slab. Or in my case connecting a offset drain to the existing piping on a concrete slab.
That’s the trick you can’t give away the ingredients to the sauce. But I’m glad you said that cause I need to know I’m a newb in carpentry and I’m redoing my shower
Your great ! thank youuuuuuu ! I have to tell you I am 60 and have squeezed out a heck of a lot of caulk like hundreds of hundreds of tubes .. Never have I realized or been shown the tip cutter on the caulk gun , I went right away to see if mine had that hole,, It does
Haha I did the same thing! Although I’m not 60 I do a lot of caulking. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been on the top of the ladder needed a new tube and then realized I left my knife ground level.... Now it doesn’t matter!
I can not find out at what height I should cut the drain pipe so the drain connection will work. from your or any other videos. about cutting drain height. Maybe you could include that information I find that to be an important point. If you can forward your method I would appreciate it. Good video
The added poly across the front is a good idea. However, I recommend 6-mil. The 2-mil that you appeared can easily become damaged. Thank you for the video.
Good idea.. i think im also going to use some rubber roofng tape also just around the bottom edges.. the way the girls throw water everywhere i figure thatd ease my mind a bit more.. now i gotta figure out how to insulate/ water proof the walls . Took off the old surround and had 0 insulation and the vinyl siding of the house was the only thing between the shower walls and the outdoors.. wasp nests and bugs all up in there..
You know I always wondered what that little hole in my caulking gun was for. And here I thought I knew everything. Oh and that thing you're calling a fiber gasket is what plumbers call a "friction ring". It allows the nut to spin and tighten...👍
Thanks for showing mortar base i ripped out an old tile shower and installing a shower unit like yours, the walls and floor of this old house are not square so i have alot of tweeking, i didnt want to use shims like the instructions say. And i didnt want to use the floor leveling water stuff and build a dam and all that. So this was a quick easy solution. One issue if you set base and push to far you have to pull back up and repile the mortar so be careful when leveling.
Awesome help. I wanted to leave a small space myself from the stud. It allows me to have the wall board meet the shower pan better so my finished wall will meet up nice to the pan. Thanks.
That's a protective shrink wrap that you will usually find on most fiberglass/plastic shower assemblies and tubs. I usually leave it on until the project is completed. It protects from accidental scratches, dropped screws, paint, mud or anything you may drop on the pan.
I am completing my floor joist install this weekend, then the sub floor.My pan arrives next Wednesday, question is, what time can you be at my house for the install ? Lol. Great video, I hope mine goes as well as yours.
@@KellyConcepts You completely neglected to explain the ptrap install and how high the downpipe had to be above the subfloor. Went so far as to cover the pipe with a rag (to prevent getting mortar in the drain obv) then did a jump cut pulling the rag out at 7:18 so newbs wouldnt ever know what to do...
Your mortar is a bit thick. It helps that you used an impermeable membrane under it but that’s not likely enough to keep it from crumbling once dry. This is a common error that has come up during the many “re”installs I’ve done. Mortar should be of a slightly thin peanut butter, it should slide out of the bucket under its own weight. Not run out but just slide out. I don’t bother with plastic under the mortar but I do wet the subfloor slightly if it’s wood. Otherwise, your tutorial looks pretty on point. Nice work!
Gave you a like but I wonder why you said you left a 1/8" space so the base could flex but then you screwed it to the studs with stainless screws. Whats up with that?
I've read the Dreamline installation instructions and I did not see how high above the floor the 2" pipe should be. Also did you use 1/2 of a 60 lb mortar bag? I'm not sure how much to use. Great video. Big help.
As a professional remodeler, installing many of these over the years, here is a tip. There is absolutely no need to screw the base, to studs. This is a potential stress point for cracking. The thinset mortar firmly hold this base in place, it will not move. What will move is the framing as it expands and compresses, that is what causes your tile mortar to crack at wall corners. So if the pan is screwed in at multiple points there will be tugging and pulling on the pan, and that will lead to a stress crack. The manufacturer may suggest screwing, but the real world application suggests different. Also, if you use waterproof material such as "GoBoard" for your walls, with a light coat of liquid membrane and seal the seams properly, you don't need the flash tape on the bottom. This will make a rock solid waterproof enclosure. You did a nice clean install. Best to you in your future projects!
Good video and thanks! -- question though: the Dreamline shower pan instructions say nothing about drilling holes and attaching to studs. Curious why you felt this was necessary (btw, I've seen a number of videos with installers doing this although the manufacturer instructions do not specify it).
Hi Kelly. Thanks for your wonderful video. I have questions for you. 1. Looks like you don't put the mortar that covers the whole base, just smaller area, why is that? 2. The shims you put in the front under the base, are you leaving them there and caulking over them? Also, the gap from the floor to the base (= the thickness of the shims), which is not small. I don't see mortar put right in the gap, so will you feel the base unstable at that area? 3. The gap is not small, how do you caulk the front? Just enough to cover the gap? 4. What kind of plastic sheet did you use, from Home Depot? Thanks for your time.
If the tool isn't stainless, a tape measure with a strong magnetic tip can be sent down after it (but I agree that it's definitely better to be proactive than reactive..stuff that rag in & keep on truckin!)
Thank you for your video you have some good waterproofing ideas! I was talking to the Carpenter who is going to frame in my shower base it’s going to be DreamLine SlimLine 48 in. W x 34 in. D Single Threshold Center Drain Shower Base. I told him about the 1/8th inch gap between the studs and the base. He said he thought it would cause the base to crack. I don’t know what to do now because I’m getting two different messages here and I want to do the right thing. How has your base held up so far?
How is the Airbnb doing? I have one with two showers I’m preparing to tackle. I was going to do with mortar pan but after doing some research, fiberglass pans seem to be the way to go with Airbnb’s. I guess it’s easier to maintain. Any advice would be great. Thanks and great job.
The AirBnb was going great but I ended up selling this one because I got an offer I couldn't pass up. I had the same thought process as you, mortar seems more elegant but all of the grout lines will make it a pain to clean. My new Lakeside Bnb has a mortar pan shower and a fiberglass shower, the fiberglass is much more convenient and cheaper.
What was the exact difference of framing to pan…. Example do you have any wiggle room? I’m thinking about ordering the same pan but my framing is 53 inches from side to side and slim line only has a 54
Could throw a shim between the flange and each stud. Someone else mentioned here though that it would be better to use a different type of mortar and no screws instead.
I'm doing same thing for the first time and I was actually wondering about the screwing the pan into the studs. You said earlier that you left a 1/8 gap between the pan and studs for flex. My question is, wouldn't screwing the pan into the studs take that away???
Hair driers/ heat guns are good for so many things, shrinking electrical shrink wrap, drying a damp charger port on a mobile phone, amd just the other day I was told that for swelling particle board you can dry it with a heat gun, sand and reseal it with your sealant to repair. Especially useful for swelling in kitchens and bathrooms where water is just starting to leak.
According to the instruction of Dreamline, you shouldn’t put any screw on the base lip into the studs. But I have been doing it for all my past shower projects and just watched you screwing the base flange into the studs😅. Any thought about “no screws” instruction from Dreamline? You did a great job and a fantastic video!!!
I'm a rookie at drain pans, but it seems that mortar, drain pipe and the surround would be sufficient to lock in the drain pan from moving? But without those or big gaps between the pan and studs, I would consider siliconed screws and like the flashing idea. I especially like the extra plastic under the curb.
I installed one couple months back , instructions specified NOT to screw into the flange and to only use mortar , I was confused and called them and they told me the exact same thing . I’m sure screwing it down is not a bad thing but as per their instructions it does not require it and in fact they say NOT to very clearly , maybe to avoid it from cracking when being drilled into
Where does the plastic sheet "skirt" go in the stack up of the floor? Between the plywood and lower thinset? Between the lower thinset and uncoupling membrane? Between the uncoupling membrane and upper thinset? Between lower thinset and uncoupling membrane would make the most sense to me because though the plastic would prevent the bond between the thinset and membrane, the neighboring thinset and membrane would be bonded, so they'd still essentially still be coupled.
Am I correct in assuming that you have to demo the tub/old tile walls down to the studs and subfloor before you can accurately measure for the size of the pan you will need?
You should probably seal the wood first to protect the integrity of the wood since alot of water will seep out of that mortar while drying. Great video though. I always over do my projects and make them indestructible haha.
Should you have the contractor replace everything that's concrete border or just having replaced the bottom half and build the shower over the entire thing so it'll be stronger
@@joshuarobison3295 some shower tray manufactures tell you not to use plumbers putty because it will degrade the material of the shower tray over time.
Good video but How does the plastic protect the subfloor ? The tile guys will just cutt it right off makes no sense instead of being right at the edge of the pan now the water will just be 4 inches down 🧐🧐🧐
In my case I used Luxury Vinyl Planks so that just sits right on top of the plastic. Same with Laminate floors. You're correct though, with tile the mortar won't set on the plastic anyway so it wouldn't work - I should have made that clarification.
The drain rubber seal you mentioned at 8:30, isn't it gonna give up at some point? Over time they lose the elastic feature and can even become brittle.
Hey man! I have a similar base. I measured 4 1\4 for the cap.and 3 1\\4 opening. Was this your measurement? I'm having a hard time trying g to.locate these measurements. Also, I appreciated your video here. It was informative. Oh, I'll be tiling the walls as.well. The skinny flange will not line up with the board. Did you shim the tub or walls to make it transition well to have the board sit on the tub?
If you're making that plastic skirt 6" from the edge of the pan, the water will just run 6" and find its way to the wood might as well do the whole floor underneath tiles
Just received my Dreamline shower base. My installation intructions make no mention of drilling and attaching to the studs as you show. Is this something you do for added security? To me, once the wallboard is attached this thing isnt going anywhere! Thanks for sharing!
I've seen it done 3 ways - screwed in the flange directly, screwed above the flange so just the head catches the flange, and no screws at all. My preference is to screw it into the flange. I just installed a dreamline door where the instructions show to screw into the acrylic threshold - so by their own standard, it's ok to put screws in this. At least, that's my take...
I have a question how does it work with shower liners if I am installing a tiled shower upstairs with a plastic pan do I need a liner also installed? Thank You!
After you pushed the pan into the mortar, you lifted it out of the mortar with the shims to make it level. It can’t possibly be set in the mortar correctly doing it that way. I came here looking for how to do that part. Am I missing something?
I'm putting in the same shower base my concern is when I mix the mortar after dry fitting the shower base & marking my level lines on the studs when putting the shower base back down I would not be able to get all the mortar out from between the little round feet and the floor which will not allow me to get all the way back down to my level lines I initially marked from dry fitting it. I have done construction for many years from the age of 17 to 35 I am 50 now and done several bathrooms but we never used mortar to lock a shower stall in place. so it's something new to me what does the mortar do? I mean you're locking the shower stall in place by screwing it to the walls and if you have it level all the way around it shouldn't flex. should I try to Mark the feet somehow with something then dry fit it to transfer the marks to the floor? he showers tub on the floor? is the mortar a must? and if so how much mortar to mix? ⅛ inch? ¼ inch? or ½ inch deep? thank you for your time
Hi there! Think of the mortar base as luxury. It is not 100% needed so no matter what you do, you'll be ok with the results. I actually spoke with a contractor on this recently and he has done a hundred shower pans and just sprays the window foam insulation and sets the pan on top of that However, mortar does help hold the pan in place, keeps it level, and prevents a lot of squeaking that will occur without it. The idea is to get about an inch of mortar on the entire floor and a little less around the drain hole. Then in the areas that you know need to be raised (unless you have a perfectly flat floor), you will want to add a little bit more mortar to that side. Once you set the pan on the mortar, you should be level or above your pencil reference lines on the studs. Then tap on the sides that need to be lowered into the mortar until it becomes all level - then let it sit until dry. The shower pan is very hollow underneath, most of the mortar will just go and fill the voids as you push down the pan.
I have watched a couple of these videos now, and I am curious about the mortar base. It seems like you just put it down and then set the base on it, doesn't more leveling need to take place? Is the mortar self leveling when you set the base down?
A little more leveling does need to happen but it is very minimal as the pan will press into the mortar pretty nicely. You want to avoid putting a ton of pressure or jumping around in the base with wet mortar or you'll press into it too much and when the mortar dries and ultimately shrinks (the more wet the mortar, the more it'll shrink) , it won't have as strong of a hold on your base as preferred.
I presume you used silicone in lieu of the plumbers putty on the drain? I use clear silicone on installs if not using plumbers putty. What you used looked like caulk. If I don't use that rubber gasket on the drain pipe I will pack oakum around pipe and pour a lead joint. When attaching the pan to the studs I use roofing nails.
I agree Joe. Depending on the manufacture of the pan you wouldn't use plumber putty since it could retract with the pan. I used 100% Silicone as recommended by delta shower pans. The bottomline read the pan installation instructions.
You realize that if you push that down into the concrete mix before leveling it, then lift it back up to level it, there will not be any concrete under the parts that just raised up, right? Shim it up level before you put down the concrete so you aren't creating air pockets underneath the flimsy plastic pan.
@@onlyonecannoli3952 I voted for Trump because he campaigned with the victims of her husband. He was ruthless like to people he don't like that. So what do you think is in that sauce that he created and you clamoured for after he lost? What do you think he would do to people who didn't vote for him? Would he take their rights away? Your seeing that right now. He took your abortion rights. And he is going to take your right to protect yourself from tyrannical government soon. By 2024, how are you going to protect yourself from him? Your party called him a dictator, yet they are going to strip from you the laws that protect you as a citizen, and eventually they are going to cut carbon admission by stopping you from breathing. This is our Arab Spring, the only thing difference is they had God and guns to help them win, all we have is the rainbow flag.
That much on setting fiberglass pans myself but I am a tile guy. The plastic that you put underneath it for a water barrier. You can't tile over that plastic the thinset will not stick to it. I know it's only 4 in but that's for in it'll come up right away. Since that won't stick to plastic at all
It will, but you'll need a primer to adhere the mortar to the concrete. These bonding primers are usually in the tile section of hardware stores. You'll need very little for 1 shower
Every plumber will tell you to NEVER put a reducer... but if you were to put one, make sure it's on a vertical line, not horizontal. I placed one here because I didn't think to fix it correctly when I ripped open the subfloor and didn't want to have to re-do my floor work. I have access underneath if problems arrive. I also just finished the 2nd bathroom in this house and plumbed it up the correct way - converting all the pipe to 2" all the way to the main line a few feet away.
Nice video. My shower base has 5cm legs going down to about 3 toward the drain (8 in total) I tried self leveling cement but its still not level, i also tried grinding high spots. I added some shims under the legs to get it about right. Can i use mortar under the legs instead for shimming purpose. My worry is that i wont need much and that it migjt start to crack. The legs are not hollow in the middle. They filled with some material.
In all the videos Ive watched, no one shows if you have to use glue when attaching the drain piece to the pipe, they just show the gasket being tighten down. Also how do you take the whole drain apart, I brought one and can’t take off the top metal part
For Installing a BATHTUB base here's the video: ruclips.net/video/JkBupNg3ICE/видео.html
Great idea with the tape on the top off the pan,GOD BLESS
I'm 71 and intuitive, but I'm impressed with how you explained this floor shower pan install.
I'm in Arizona and my floor is actually slab cement.
For almost ALL shower pans you still need a mortar bed underneath to support it properly.
Looks great! Not that my opinion matters but, I would suggest on your next project using the self tapping pan head screws to go at a 45° angle on the top lip of the pan, into the wood studs, and not through the fiberglass itself, which could cause the fiberglass to crack and water could leak into your walls.
Seriously ... I've been looking on the RUclipss for someone to show a demo of putting a mortar base under a shower for so long so I can see the consistency. This is actually my next step in my basement project -- hopefully this next week. I'm also using the Dreamline Slimline shower base and an Oatey drain. Thanks for the video. I bought 2 bags of the mortar, having no clue how much I actually need and not wanting to be too short and wishing I had more.
I'm having challenges getting my inside-the-drain rubber gasket to fit...
Also, the RUclips algorithms showing me this video a day after you published it are kind of crazy... But I guess useful.
Good video. Thanks for the walk-through.
Great timing since I just released the video yesterday! The rubber drain part does get tight for sure, especially if the drain is crooked or anything. A flathead can help work it around but be careful.
Thanks for checking it out and good luck!
the plastic and window flashing is a great idea! I'm renovating a bathroom that looks like it went in in the 70s, and honestly, the entire bathroom to this day is still REALLY solid, EXCEPT for water damage to the drywall and subfloors around the acrylic shower, so I will definitely be using these tricks when I replace them (especially since MY work is not going to be anywhere near as solid as the original builders... need all the extra help I can get)
Hey brother Thanks i do this for a living and the plastic at the front was a good idea.
Tip for mixing put 1/2 of the water on the bottom before adding the mortar .. just helps with mixing all and all great job
you mean add 1/2 of the water for a 1/2 bucket of mortor, = 1/4 of the water into the bottom of the bucket before adding the mortor mix,
As a newb to plumbing and scanning youtube on how to install alcove shower pans i'm finding it interesting how no one actually shows how to connect the new drain to the existing plumbing. i would think this would be a pretty important instruction. everything else seems to be pretty common sense. not bashing the video just making an observation.
I noticed the same thing. Especially no videos showing how to connect one to a concrete slab. Or in my case connecting a offset drain to the existing piping on a concrete slab.
That’s the trick you can’t give away the ingredients to the sauce. But I’m glad you said that cause I need to know I’m a newb in carpentry and I’m redoing my shower
I just said this as I'm watching the video. Saying you did a step but not showing it, really messes up the "how to" part of the video.
Lol same no ones showing the drain install
@@GamechangerzB I figured it out on my own. Doing it on a concrete slab is more tedious but I got it done.
putty is oil based which is not recommended for polymer based surfaces. so in this case, silicone is a better choice.
I just finished installation of my 36 x 60 in DreamLine shower base. Thank you so very much! Your video is really helpful!
Same - really thanks for this....Tim
Your great ! thank youuuuuuu ! I have to tell you I am 60 and have squeezed out a heck of a lot of caulk like hundreds of hundreds of tubes .. Never have I realized or been shown the tip cutter on the caulk gun , I went right away to see if mine had that hole,, It does
Haha I did the same thing! Although I’m not 60 I do a lot of caulking.
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been on the top of the ladder needed a new tube and then realized I left my knife ground level....
Now it doesn’t matter!
Try out the Ryobi caulking gun. Save those old hands some grief! Even has a tube cutter on the side!
Same here
What the ?!?!?
Old dog New tricks....
I can not find out at what height I should cut the drain pipe so the drain connection will work. from your or any other videos. about cutting drain height. Maybe you could include that information I find that to be an important point. If you can forward your method I would appreciate it. Good video
The added poly across the front is a good idea. However, I recommend 6-mil. The 2-mil that you appeared can easily become damaged. Thank you for the video.
Good video. I'm going to Redguard the subflooring before laying the mortar & pan.
Good idea.. i think im also going to use some rubber roofng tape also just around the bottom edges.. the way the girls throw water everywhere i figure thatd ease my mind a bit more.. now i gotta figure out how to insulate/ water proof the walls . Took off the old surround and had 0 insulation and the vinyl siding of the house was the only thing between the shower walls and the outdoors.. wasp nests and bugs all up in there..
spray foam
@@Z-Ack
Yep Redguard is an amazing product for that extra bit of moisture protection.
You know I always wondered what that little hole in my caulking gun was for. And here I thought I knew everything. Oh and that thing you're calling a fiber gasket is what plumbers call a "friction ring". It allows the nut to spin and tighten...👍
Thank you. I'm installing this pan this weekend for my new shower 🚿... This video you posted about this install was an awesome help ...
Thank you for explaining with details , I ended up paying a plumber for this part he broke my shower pan with the screws and it was not leveled
I like that plastic barrier trick. 👍
Thanks for showing mortar base i ripped out an old tile shower and installing a shower unit like yours, the walls and floor of this old house are not square so i have alot of tweeking, i didnt want to use shims like the instructions say. And i didnt want to use the floor leveling water stuff and build a dam and all that. So this was a quick easy solution. One issue if you set base and push to far you have to pull back up and repile the mortar so be careful when leveling.
You're right not to use shims
I did and the mortar didn't set properly in the area
Really surprised me on the plastic protecting the subflooring!!🙌🏽🙌🏽 awesome stuff brother!
Just purchased a Slimline and I’m hoping it goes as smooth as your install. Thanks for sharing
I never knew what you cut the tip and ram the tube with the caulking gun. 😂😂
Awesome help. I wanted to leave a small space myself from the stud. It allows me to have the wall board meet the shower pan better so my finished wall will meet up nice to the pan. Thanks.
That's a protective shrink wrap that you will usually find on most fiberglass/plastic shower assemblies and tubs. I usually leave it on until the project is completed. It protects from accidental scratches, dropped screws, paint, mud or anything you may drop on the pan.
This is encouraging! Do you have video on the walls insulation? Also what if your bathroom has a window?
Very good video. Help me get things done with my project.
Thank you again from retiree.
I am completing my floor joist install this weekend, then the sub floor.My pan arrives next Wednesday, question is, what time can you be at my house for the install ? Lol. Great video, I hope mine goes as well as yours.
Lol I hope it goes well and this video helps. Good luck
@@KellyConcepts You completely neglected to explain the ptrap install and how high the downpipe had to be above the subfloor. Went so far as to cover the pipe with a rag (to prevent getting mortar in the drain obv) then did a jump cut pulling the rag out at 7:18 so newbs wouldnt ever know what to do...
Ty for all your advise I'm a first timer so I'm really nervous messing up. But ty 4 you're videos.
My base came in a plastic bag and I can't seem to find the film to pull back like you instructed. This video helps me tremendously. Thanks.
Your mortar is a bit thick. It helps that you used an impermeable membrane under it but that’s not likely enough to keep it from crumbling once dry. This is a common error that has come up during the many “re”installs I’ve done. Mortar should be of a slightly thin peanut butter, it should slide out of the bucket under its own weight. Not run out but just slide out. I don’t bother with plastic under the mortar but I do wet the subfloor slightly if it’s wood. Otherwise, your tutorial looks pretty on point. Nice work!
Gave you a like but I wonder why you said you left a 1/8" space so the base could flex but then you screwed it to the studs with stainless screws. Whats up with that?
this is a great video as i am about to go down this avenue. All is needed is a simple layer of mortar? no tapering towards the drain?
I've read the Dreamline installation instructions and I did not see how high above the floor the 2" pipe should be. Also did you use 1/2 of a 60 lb mortar bag? I'm not sure how much to use. Great video. Big help.
As a professional remodeler, installing many of these over the years, here is a tip. There is absolutely no need to screw the base, to studs. This is a potential stress point for cracking. The thinset mortar firmly hold this base in place, it will not move. What will move is the framing as it expands and compresses, that is what causes your tile mortar to crack at wall corners.
So if the pan is screwed in at multiple points there will be tugging and pulling on the pan, and that will lead to a stress crack. The manufacturer may suggest screwing, but the real world application suggests different.
Also, if you use waterproof material such as "GoBoard" for your walls, with a light coat of liquid membrane and seal the seams properly, you don't need the flash tape on the bottom. This will make a rock solid waterproof enclosure.
You did a nice clean install. Best to you in your future projects!
These are better than tile floors as grout will eventually go bad and be a huge headache
Your fiber gasket goes over the rubber so it doesn't buckle the rubber gasket when tightening up
Good video and thanks! -- question though: the Dreamline shower pan instructions say nothing about drilling holes and attaching to studs. Curious why you felt this was necessary (btw, I've seen a number of videos with installers doing this although the manufacturer instructions do not specify it).
Hi Kelly. Thanks for your wonderful video. I have questions for you. 1. Looks like you don't put the mortar that covers the whole base, just smaller area, why is that? 2. The shims you put in the front under the base, are you leaving them there and caulking over them? Also, the gap from the floor to the base (= the thickness of the shims), which is not small. I don't see mortar put right in the gap, so will you feel the base unstable at that area? 3. The gap is not small, how do you caulk the front? Just enough to cover the gap? 4. What kind of plastic sheet did you use, from Home Depot? Thanks for your time.
Good job putting a rag in the pipe when tightening the drain down. That tool can fall in so easily
If the tool isn't stainless, a tape measure with a strong magnetic tip can be sent down after it (but I agree that it's definitely better to be proactive than reactive..stuff that rag in & keep on truckin!)
Thank you for your video you have some good waterproofing ideas! I was talking to the Carpenter who is going to frame in my shower base it’s going to be DreamLine SlimLine 48 in. W x 34 in. D Single Threshold Center Drain Shower Base. I told him about the 1/8th inch gap between the studs and the base. He said he thought it would cause the base to crack. I don’t know what to do now because I’m getting two different messages here and I want to do the right thing. How has your base held up so far?
This is a very good TV show and we love it!
How is the Airbnb doing? I have one with two showers I’m preparing to tackle. I was going to do with mortar pan but after doing some research, fiberglass pans seem to be the way to go with Airbnb’s. I guess it’s easier to maintain. Any advice would be great. Thanks and great job.
The AirBnb was going great but I ended up selling this one because I got an offer I couldn't pass up. I had the same thought process as you, mortar seems more elegant but all of the grout lines will make it a pain to clean. My new Lakeside Bnb has a mortar pan shower and a fiberglass shower, the fiberglass is much more convenient and cheaper.
What was the exact difference of framing to pan…. Example do you have any wiggle room? I’m thinking about ordering the same pan but my framing is 53 inches from side to side and slim line only has a 54
Great video. How do you maintain the 1/8 inch gap from studs while screwing in the flange around the tub?
Could throw a shim between the flange and each stud. Someone else mentioned here though that it would be better to use a different type of mortar and no screws instead.
@@TheDeanosaurus was just going to comment this. Seeing the screws go in felt harsh for a new unit
I would use a large pair of needle nose pliers with the metal tool to tighten and compress the rubber grommet instead of just a screwdriver.
Nice vid, I was looking for someone who was doing an overkill 👍👍👍👍
Hi, did you do a video where you install the ciment walls and céramic?
I'm doing same thing for the first time and I was actually wondering about the screwing the pan into the studs. You said earlier that you left a 1/8 gap between the pan and studs for flex. My question is, wouldn't screwing the pan into the studs take that away???
I was wondering the same thing... 🤔
Good tips. Thank you for a great video.
Use plumbers putty under the drain flange. Using the caulk/silicone makes it incredibly hard if you ever have to take it apart.
Plumbers putty gets old and cracks marine silicone will last almost forever.
plumbers putty stains acrylic
Depending on what was used. You can use a hair dryer to soften up the silicone and remove the drain. Done it several times repairing hot tubs
Hair driers/ heat guns are good for so many things, shrinking electrical shrink wrap, drying a damp charger port on a mobile phone, amd just the other day I was told that for swelling particle board you can dry it with a heat gun, sand and reseal it with your sealant to repair. Especially useful for swelling in kitchens and bathrooms where water is just starting to leak.
@@davidnolen9537 Some of this shower pans do NOT recommend using plumbers putty. They want you to use silicone.
According to the instruction of Dreamline, you shouldn’t put any screw on the base lip into the studs. But I have been doing it for all my past shower projects and just watched you screwing the base flange into the studs😅. Any thought about “no screws” instruction from Dreamline? You did a great job and a fantastic video!!!
Anyone has some thoughts why Streamline doesn’t want its shower pan screwed into the studs ?
I'm a rookie at drain pans, but it seems that mortar, drain pipe and the surround would be sufficient to lock in the drain pan from moving? But without those or big gaps between the pan and studs, I would consider siliconed screws and like the flashing idea. I especially like the extra plastic under the curb.
I installed one couple months back , instructions specified NOT to screw into the flange and to only use mortar , I was confused and called them and they told me the exact same thing . I’m sure screwing it down is not a bad thing but as per their instructions it does not require it and in fact they say NOT to very clearly , maybe to avoid it from cracking when being drilled into
i suspect the movement between shower and walls could crack it where the screw holes are that is why they don't recommend it
Use a plastic clip that goes over the sides of the flange and then you screw the upper clip into the stud so there is no hole in the flange.
Where does the plastic sheet "skirt" go in the stack up of the floor? Between the plywood and lower thinset? Between the lower thinset and uncoupling membrane? Between the uncoupling membrane and upper thinset? Between lower thinset and uncoupling membrane would make the most sense to me because though the plastic would prevent the bond between the thinset and membrane, the neighboring thinset and membrane would be bonded, so they'd still essentially still be coupled.
Nice 👍 install man. Always over do it, it’s the right thing to do and save you time innthe long run.
For sure. I once heard someone say they build things to withstand an elephant so I try to implement that too lol
is the Oatey the best drain system for these types of showers?
Another great tutorial video! your channel is killing it! Keep it up!!
Am I correct in assuming that you have to demo the tub/old tile walls down to the studs and subfloor before you can accurately measure for the size of the pan you will need?
yes it goes up to the stud walls then walls go over it
Did you put enough mortar down to meet the base. Was your layer of mortar around an inch thick
Great professional approach.
Did you ever get a full joist in there? It looked like a scrap
2 questions? Where do I order that shower pan? And isn't your subflooring suppose to have underlayment before you install mortar bed? TIA
didnt think mortar directly on wood floor was a good idea. Maybe tar paper and metal lathe ???
Yes, do not ever use USB particle board crap for the subflooring sheet material.
Is it OK to place the mortar directly onto the sub-floor or plywood?
You should probably seal the wood first to protect the integrity of the wood since alot of water will seep out of that mortar while drying. Great video though. I always over do my projects and make them indestructible haha.
my waste pipe is a little short. when you said you can use caulk what would i do put caulk in and leave out the rubber seal. or would i use both.
Man, sweet explanation! Thanks man!
Great video
Same here nice trick... This video has helped me a great deal thank you for it.
Fantastic video! Thank you for this!
Should you have the contractor replace everything that's concrete border or just having replaced the bottom half and build the shower over the entire thing so it'll be stronger
If I install a shower pan in an RV, do I have to put mortar under the pan?
I'd recommend using silicone to seal under the drain body
Not a good idea to use silicone because in the future if you have to ever have to remove the strainer good luck
I dunno guys why not just use plumbers putty?
@@joshuarobison3295 some shower tray manufactures tell you not to use plumbers putty because it will degrade the material of the shower tray over time.
@@SebsCards mine says dont use putty ... use latex/acrylic sealant... what is that?
Good video but How does the plastic protect the subfloor ? The tile guys will just cutt it right off makes no sense instead of being right at the edge of the pan now the water will just be 4 inches down 🧐🧐🧐
In my case I used Luxury Vinyl Planks so that just sits right on top of the plastic. Same with Laminate floors. You're correct though, with tile the mortar won't set on the plastic anyway so it wouldn't work - I should have made that clarification.
Hi. Dreamline says not to screw the slimline to the studs. Thoughts?
The drain rubber seal you mentioned at 8:30, isn't it gonna give up at some point? Over time they lose the elastic feature and can even become brittle.
Hey man! I have a similar base. I measured 4 1\4 for the cap.and 3 1\\4 opening. Was this your measurement? I'm having a hard time trying g to.locate these measurements. Also, I appreciated your video here. It was informative. Oh, I'll be tiling the walls as.well. The skinny flange will not line up with the board. Did you shim the tub or walls to make it transition well to have the board sit on the tub?
For those that have tight walls don’t over tighten the screws if you don’t have much gap that should make up for it
If you're making that plastic skirt 6" from the edge of the pan, the water will just run 6" and find its way to the wood might as well do the whole floor underneath tiles
Is it necessary to remove all concrete border? Can you just leave the top and just replace the bottom?
Hi Kelly Concepts! Does the drain go with the base or is bought separately? Thank you for your time to answer!
Hi there! It is bought separately. Around $9-$11 for me on Amazon. It's a 2" Oatey - link in my description. Thanks for watching!
You did a great job
But I'm using your videos a tutorial to help me install a shower pan fiberglass that is I'm used to making them
Just received my Dreamline shower base. My installation intructions make no mention of drilling and attaching to the studs as you show. Is this something you do for added security? To me, once the wallboard is attached this thing isnt going anywhere! Thanks for sharing!
I've seen it done 3 ways - screwed in the flange directly, screwed above the flange so just the head catches the flange, and no screws at all.
My preference is to screw it into the flange.
I just installed a dreamline door where the instructions show to screw into the acrylic threshold - so by their own standard, it's ok to put screws in this. At least, that's my take...
I have a question how does it work with shower liners if I am installing a tiled shower upstairs with a plastic pan do I need a liner also installed?
Thank You!
Doing same job, what did you have to do?
great video.you do nice work👍
why not install your vinyl flooring under pan before you install it
Do u just connect the drain to 2 inch abs with abs glue or just plug and play?
There's no need for glue with this, the rubber gasket does all the work on the drain
good job young man!
After you pushed the pan into the mortar, you lifted it out of the mortar with the shims to make it level. It can’t possibly be set in the mortar correctly doing it that way. I came here looking for how to do that part. Am I missing something?
The guy in this video does it differently (around the 2 minute mark) : ruclips.net/video/Po4UFoTbhG0/видео.html
I'm putting in the same shower base my concern is when I mix the mortar after dry fitting the shower base & marking my level lines on the studs when putting the shower base back down I would not be able to get all the mortar out from between the little round feet and the floor which will not allow me to get all the way back down to my level lines I initially marked from dry fitting it. I have done construction for many years from the age of 17 to 35 I am 50 now and done several bathrooms but we never used mortar to lock a shower stall in place. so it's something new to me what does the mortar do? I mean you're locking the shower stall in place by screwing it to the walls and if you have it level all the way around it shouldn't flex. should I try to Mark the feet somehow with something then dry fit it to transfer the marks to the floor? he showers tub on the floor? is the mortar a must? and if so how much mortar to mix? ⅛ inch? ¼ inch? or ½ inch deep? thank you for your time
Hi there! Think of the mortar base as luxury. It is not 100% needed so no matter what you do, you'll be ok with the results. I actually spoke with a contractor on this recently and he has done a hundred shower pans and just sprays the window foam insulation and sets the pan on top of that
However, mortar does help hold the pan in place, keeps it level, and prevents a lot of squeaking that will occur without it.
The idea is to get about an inch of mortar on the entire floor and a little less around the drain hole. Then in the areas that you know need to be raised (unless you have a perfectly flat floor), you will want to add a little bit more mortar to that side.
Once you set the pan on the mortar, you should be level or above your pencil reference lines on the studs. Then tap on the sides that need to be lowered into the mortar until it becomes all level - then let it sit until dry.
The shower pan is very hollow underneath, most of the mortar will just go and fill the voids as you push down the pan.
Saw a video where they recommended not putting the mortar under the round feet. Just in between.
@@toms5094 But how can you do that if there's feet all over the thing?
@@toms5094 Yea but this would seem to be a REAL pain!
The pan was never designed to stand on the floor without the mortor mix under it, it is to flimsy for that to not have mortor under the pan.
I have watched a couple of these videos now, and I am curious about the mortar base. It seems like you just put it down and then set the base on it, doesn't more leveling need to take place? Is the mortar self leveling when you set the base down?
A little more leveling does need to happen but it is very minimal as the pan will press into the mortar pretty nicely. You want to avoid putting a ton of pressure or jumping around in the base with wet mortar or you'll press into it too much and when the mortar dries and ultimately shrinks (the more wet the mortar, the more it'll shrink) , it won't have as strong of a hold on your base as preferred.
@@KellyConcepts awesome, thank you!
@Kelly Concepts I bought a bag of rapid set mortar, it sounds like it should buy thinset mortar for tile with a modifier?
Este es el video mas facil de entender ya que yo soy un principiante, felicidades muy buena explicación y exitos Gracias
thank you so much for your time.
Good video. Explain very good!
I presume you used silicone in lieu of the plumbers putty on the drain? I use clear silicone on installs if not using plumbers putty. What you used looked like caulk. If I don't use that rubber gasket on the drain pipe I will pack oakum around pipe and pour a lead joint. When attaching the pan to the studs I use roofing nails.
I agree Joe. Depending on the manufacture of the pan you wouldn't use plumber putty since it could retract with the pan. I used 100% Silicone as recommended by delta shower pans. The bottomline read the pan installation instructions.
Dude great video and pacing. Thanks.
So do you put the mortar bed right over the subfloor??
yes
Yes, wet the floor prior to pouring the mortar unless you’re setting it on cement.
You realize that if you push that down into the concrete mix before leveling it, then lift it back up to level it, there will not be any concrete under the parts that just raised up, right? Shim it up level before you put down the concrete so you aren't creating air pockets underneath the flimsy plastic pan.
Trump 2024!!!!
@@aandmservices2518 I hope not, cause everything that guy touches turns to $h!t. I recommend a different contractor.
At least he doesn't crap his pants and look confused while reading the teleprompter!
@@brianheiter432 you keep talking like that and pedo joe will be coming after you for a good ol sniff n grope.
@@onlyonecannoli3952 I voted for Trump because he campaigned with the victims of her husband. He was ruthless like to people he don't like that. So what do you think is in that sauce that he created and you clamoured for after he lost? What do you think he would do to people who didn't vote for him? Would he take their rights away? Your seeing that right now. He took your abortion rights. And he is going to take your right to protect yourself from tyrannical government soon. By 2024, how are you going to protect yourself from him? Your party called him a dictator, yet they are going to strip from you the laws that protect you as a citizen, and eventually they are going to cut carbon admission by stopping you from breathing. This is our Arab Spring, the only thing difference is they had God and guns to help them win, all we have is the rainbow flag.
That much on setting fiberglass pans myself but I am a tile guy. The plastic that you put underneath it for a water barrier. You can't tile over that plastic the thinset will not stick to it. I know it's only 4 in but that's for in it'll come up right away. Since that won't stick to plastic at all
That's a really good point Jose - I didn't think of that. For my bathrooms I went with a 100% waterproof LVP flooring instead of tile.
@@KellyConcepts well that solves that issue. Lol have a great day. That's for tge dyi
My subfloor is concrete, it's a concrete joist system in my house. Would the sand/cement mixture work in my situtation as well?
It will, but you'll need a primer to adhere the mortar to the concrete. These bonding primers are usually in the tile section of hardware stores. You'll need very little for 1 shower
@@KellyConcepts thank you!
There must be some 2" to 1 1/2" reducer under the house somewhere? Can you tell about that? Many thanks.
Every plumber will tell you to NEVER put a reducer... but if you were to put one, make sure it's on a vertical line, not horizontal. I placed one here because I didn't think to fix it correctly when I ripped open the subfloor and didn't want to have to re-do my floor work. I have access underneath if problems arrive.
I also just finished the 2nd bathroom in this house and plumbed it up the correct way - converting all the pipe to 2" all the way to the main line a few feet away.
Nice video. My shower base has 5cm legs going down to about 3 toward the drain (8 in total) I tried self leveling cement but its still not level, i also tried grinding high spots. I added some shims under the legs to get it about right. Can i use mortar under the legs instead for shimming purpose. My worry is that i wont need much and that it migjt start to crack. The legs are not hollow in the middle. They filled with some material.
Wow the floor leveling compound should have worked! It is a year ago but I hope you found you solution.
It’s voids this specific manufacturers warranty when you screw into the flange
In all the videos Ive watched, no one shows if you have to use glue when attaching the drain piece to the pipe, they just show the gasket being tighten down. Also how do you take the whole drain apart, I brought one and can’t take off the top metal part
The metal screen part is difficult to pop off because there's not much room to get a flathead under it. I have to get my fingernails under it