How to Install a DreamLine Shower Base With Oatey Drain
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 дек 2020
- This is how to install a DreamLine shower base with an Oatey drain video and is exactly what the title says it is. I'll go step by step on how to install this shower pan and include some of my tips for a leak-proof system you probably haven't seen yet.
🔴 How to Install a Bathtub: • How to Install & Water...
🔴 How to Install a DreamLine Glass Sliding Shower Door: • How to Install a Dream...
Additionally, I'll go through the Oatey 2" Shower Drain installation as well - I mean, it is part of the shower base install after all, but it's really hard to find information on this online so I thought I'd provide it for you.
For the DreamLine Base - Click HERE 👉amzn.to/3rlV6zs
For the Oatey Drain - Click HERE 👉amzn.to/3tW7KaR
For the AirBnb listing, click here: www.airbnb.com/h/19thhole
This whole process is actually quite simple:
1) dry fit the pan and level it with some wooden shims
2) mark on the studs the height of the tub around all 3 sides
3) remove pan and lay down some mortar
4) add pan back on and level it with your stud markings on the wall
5) set something heavy on it and let it sit several hours
6) watch the video for the in between details!
Thank you so much for watching. If you have any cool tips, tricks, or concerns, place them in the comments below and let us know how you install a shower base.
-----------------------------------------
Tools Used:
⚒️⚙️🗜️🔦📐🔧🔨
32" DreamLine Shower Pan: amzn.to/3rlV6zs
30" DreamLine Shower Pan: amzn.to/3aJX5aX
Oatey Shower Drain: amzn.to/3tW7KaR
Window Flashing: amzn.to/3551VyY
Mortar Mixer: Home Improvement Store. Just regular concrete mix.
Flat Trowel: amzn.to/3h900uX
Stainless Steel Screws: Home Improvement Store.
#DreamLine #ShowerPan #HowTo
***********************************
Kelly Concepts is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
DON'T CLICK THIS:
ruclips.net/user/KellyConcept.... 
Хобби
For Installing a BATHTUB base here's the video: ruclips.net/video/JkBupNg3ICE/видео.html
Great idea with the tape on the top off the pan,GOD BLESS
Looks great! Not that my opinion matters but, I would suggest on your next project using the self tapping pan head screws to go at a 45° angle on the top lip of the pan, into the wood studs, and not through the fiberglass itself, which could cause the fiberglass to crack and water could leak into your walls.
I'm 71 and intuitive, but I'm impressed with how you explained this floor shower pan install.
I'm in Arizona and my floor is actually slab cement.
As a newb to plumbing and scanning youtube on how to install alcove shower pans i'm finding it interesting how no one actually shows how to connect the new drain to the existing plumbing. i would think this would be a pretty important instruction. everything else seems to be pretty common sense. not bashing the video just making an observation.
I noticed the same thing. Especially no videos showing how to connect one to a concrete slab. Or in my case connecting a offset drain to the existing piping on a concrete slab.
That’s the trick you can’t give away the ingredients to the sauce. But I’m glad you said that cause I need to know I’m a newb in carpentry and I’m redoing my shower
I just said this as I'm watching the video. Saying you did a step but not showing it, really messes up the "how to" part of the video.
Lol same no ones showing the drain install
@@GamechangerzB I figured it out on my own. Doing it on a concrete slab is more tedious but I got it done.
Awesome help. I wanted to leave a small space myself from the stud. It allows me to have the wall board meet the shower pan better so my finished wall will meet up nice to the pan. Thanks.
the plastic and window flashing is a great idea! I'm renovating a bathroom that looks like it went in in the 70s, and honestly, the entire bathroom to this day is still REALLY solid, EXCEPT for water damage to the drywall and subfloors around the acrylic shower, so I will definitely be using these tricks when I replace them (especially since MY work is not going to be anywhere near as solid as the original builders... need all the extra help I can get)
Just purchased a Slimline and I’m hoping it goes as smooth as your install. Thanks for sharing
Really surprised me on the plastic protecting the subflooring!!🙌🏽🙌🏽 awesome stuff brother!
Thank you. I'm installing this pan this weekend for my new shower 🚿... This video you posted about this install was an awesome help ...
I just finished installation of my 36 x 60 in DreamLine shower base. Thank you so very much! Your video is really helpful!
Same - really thanks for this....Tim
My base came in a plastic bag and I can't seem to find the film to pull back like you instructed. This video helps me tremendously. Thanks.
Very good video. Help me get things done with my project.
Thank you again from retiree.
I like that plastic barrier trick. 👍
Another great tutorial video! your channel is killing it! Keep it up!!
putty is oil based which is not recommended for polymer based surfaces. so in this case, silicone is a better choice.
I can not find out at what height I should cut the drain pipe so the drain connection will work. from your or any other videos. about cutting drain height. Maybe you could include that information I find that to be an important point. If you can forward your method I would appreciate it. Good video
Same here nice trick... This video has helped me a great deal thank you for it.
Seriously ... I've been looking on the RUclipss for someone to show a demo of putting a mortar base under a shower for so long so I can see the consistency. This is actually my next step in my basement project -- hopefully this next week. I'm also using the Dreamline Slimline shower base and an Oatey drain. Thanks for the video. I bought 2 bags of the mortar, having no clue how much I actually need and not wanting to be too short and wishing I had more.
I'm having challenges getting my inside-the-drain rubber gasket to fit...
Also, the RUclips algorithms showing me this video a day after you published it are kind of crazy... But I guess useful.
Good video. Thanks for the walk-through.
Great timing since I just released the video yesterday! The rubber drain part does get tight for sure, especially if the drain is crooked or anything. A flathead can help work it around but be careful.
Thanks for checking it out and good luck!
Este es el video mas facil de entender ya que yo soy un principiante, felicidades muy buena explicación y exitos Gracias
Ty for all your advise I'm a first timer so I'm really nervous messing up. But ty 4 you're videos.
This is a very good TV show and we love it!
Great professional approach.
Hi, did you do a video where you install the ciment walls and céramic?
This is encouraging! Do you have video on the walls insulation? Also what if your bathroom has a window?
Nice vid, I was looking for someone who was doing an overkill 👍👍👍👍
I never knew what you cut the tip and ram the tube with the caulking gun. 😂😂
You know I always wondered what that little hole in my caulking gun was for. And here I thought I knew everything. Oh and that thing you're calling a fiber gasket is what plumbers call a "friction ring". It allows the nut to spin and tighten...👍
Man, sweet explanation! Thanks man!
Thank you for explaining with details , I ended up paying a plumber for this part he broke my shower pan with the screws and it was not leveled
Fantastic video! Thank you for this!
thank you so much for your time.
The added poly across the front is a good idea. However, I recommend 6-mil. The 2-mil that you appeared can easily become damaged. Thank you for the video.
Thank you for your video you have some good waterproofing ideas! I was talking to the Carpenter who is going to frame in my shower base it’s going to be DreamLine SlimLine 48 in. W x 34 in. D Single Threshold Center Drain Shower Base. I told him about the 1/8th inch gap between the studs and the base. He said he thought it would cause the base to crack. I don’t know what to do now because I’m getting two different messages here and I want to do the right thing. How has your base held up so far?
Good video. I'm going to Redguard the subflooring before laying the mortar & pan.
Good idea.. i think im also going to use some rubber roofng tape also just around the bottom edges.. the way the girls throw water everywhere i figure thatd ease my mind a bit more.. now i gotta figure out how to insulate/ water proof the walls . Took off the old surround and had 0 insulation and the vinyl siding of the house was the only thing between the shower walls and the outdoors.. wasp nests and bugs all up in there..
spray foam
@@Z-Ack
Nice 👍 install man. Always over do it, it’s the right thing to do and save you time innthe long run.
For sure. I once heard someone say they build things to withstand an elephant so I try to implement that too lol
Hey brother Thanks i do this for a living and the plastic at the front was a good idea.
Tip for mixing put 1/2 of the water on the bottom before adding the mortar .. just helps with mixing all and all great job
you mean add 1/2 of the water for a 1/2 bucket of mortor, = 1/4 of the water into the bottom of the bucket before adding the mortor mix,
Dude great video and pacing. Thanks.
That's a protective shrink wrap that you will usually find on most fiberglass/plastic shower assemblies and tubs. I usually leave it on until the project is completed. It protects from accidental scratches, dropped screws, paint, mud or anything you may drop on the pan.
You did a great job
Thanks for showing mortar base i ripped out an old tile shower and installing a shower unit like yours, the walls and floor of this old house are not square so i have alot of tweeking, i didnt want to use shims like the instructions say. And i didnt want to use the floor leveling water stuff and build a dam and all that. So this was a quick easy solution. One issue if you set base and push to far you have to pull back up and repile the mortar so be careful when leveling.
You're right not to use shims
I did and the mortar didn't set properly in the area
Good tips. Thank you for a great video.
Your fiber gasket goes over the rubber so it doesn't buckle the rubber gasket when tightening up
Your great ! thank youuuuuuu ! I have to tell you I am 60 and have squeezed out a heck of a lot of caulk like hundreds of hundreds of tubes .. Never have I realized or been shown the tip cutter on the caulk gun , I went right away to see if mine had that hole,, It does
Haha I did the same thing! Although I’m not 60 I do a lot of caulking.
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been on the top of the ladder needed a new tube and then realized I left my knife ground level....
Now it doesn’t matter!
Try out the Ryobi caulking gun. Save those old hands some grief! Even has a tube cutter on the side!
Same here
What the ?!?!?
Old dog New tricks....
Great video
great video.you do nice work👍
Should you have the contractor replace everything that's concrete border or just having replaced the bottom half and build the shower over the entire thing so it'll be stronger
good job young man!
These are better than tile floors as grout will eventually go bad and be a huge headache
Good video. Explain very good!
Hey man! I have a similar base. I measured 4 1\4 for the cap.and 3 1\\4 opening. Was this your measurement? I'm having a hard time trying g to.locate these measurements. Also, I appreciated your video here. It was informative. Oh, I'll be tiling the walls as.well. The skinny flange will not line up with the board. Did you shim the tub or walls to make it transition well to have the board sit on the tub?
my waste pipe is a little short. when you said you can use caulk what would i do put caulk in and leave out the rubber seal. or would i use both.
Gracias por el video
Nice job you the best
Is it necessary to remove all concrete border? Can you just leave the top and just replace the bottom?
Hi Kelly. Thanks for your wonderful video. I have questions for you. 1. Looks like you don't put the mortar that covers the whole base, just smaller area, why is that? 2. The shims you put in the front under the base, are you leaving them there and caulking over them? Also, the gap from the floor to the base (= the thickness of the shims), which is not small. I don't see mortar put right in the gap, so will you feel the base unstable at that area? 3. The gap is not small, how do you caulk the front? Just enough to cover the gap? 4. What kind of plastic sheet did you use, from Home Depot? Thanks for your time.
If I install a shower pan in an RV, do I have to put mortar under the pan?
Awesome vid many thanks
I would use a large pair of needle nose pliers with the metal tool to tighten and compress the rubber grommet instead of just a screwdriver.
I have watched several videos on how to install a shower base and they it’s very important to put some paper like felt or thick plastic on the board before you put down 5he cement otherwise the concrete will rot the wood.
I've read the Dreamline installation instructions and I did not see how high above the floor the 2" pipe should be. Also did you use 1/2 of a 60 lb mortar bag? I'm not sure how much to use. Great video. Big help.
Good job putting a rag in the pipe when tightening the drain down. That tool can fall in so easily
If the tool isn't stainless, a tape measure with a strong magnetic tip can be sent down after it (but I agree that it's definitely better to be proactive than reactive..stuff that rag in & keep on truckin!)
Good video and thanks! -- question though: the Dreamline shower pan instructions say nothing about drilling holes and attaching to studs. Curious why you felt this was necessary (btw, I've seen a number of videos with installers doing this although the manufacturer instructions do not specify it).
Hi. Dreamline says not to screw the slimline to the studs. Thoughts?
Did you put enough mortar down to meet the base. Was your layer of mortar around an inch thick
Good Job . . . if I can add my 3 cents ' ' '' I bought a one piece 36" x 36" and pushed it into place ..done.. I been a contractor for (5) minutes of my life and now I can retire ( true story) i dont intend to hurt any ones feelings or good efforts ... its just they way I do things . .
Great video. How do you maintain the 1/8 inch gap from studs while screwing in the flange around the tub?
Could throw a shim between the flange and each stud. Someone else mentioned here though that it would be better to use a different type of mortar and no screws instead.
@@TheDeanosaurus was just going to comment this. Seeing the screws go in felt harsh for a new unit
Hi Kelly Concepts! Does the drain go with the base or is bought separately? Thank you for your time to answer!
Hi there! It is bought separately. Around $9-$11 for me on Amazon. It's a 2" Oatey - link in my description. Thanks for watching!
I am completing my floor joist install this weekend, then the sub floor.My pan arrives next Wednesday, question is, what time can you be at my house for the install ? Lol. Great video, I hope mine goes as well as yours.
Lol I hope it goes well and this video helps. Good luck
@@KellyConcepts You completely neglected to explain the ptrap install and how high the downpipe had to be above the subfloor. Went so far as to cover the pipe with a rag (to prevent getting mortar in the drain obv) then did a jump cut pulling the rag out at 7:18 so newbs wouldnt ever know what to do...
how many bags of martor do u used?
Am I correct in assuming that you have to demo the tub/old tile walls down to the studs and subfloor before you can accurately measure for the size of the pan you will need?
yes it goes up to the stud walls then walls go over it
Can I paint white pan different volor
The drain rubber seal you mentioned at 8:30, isn't it gonna give up at some point? Over time they lose the elastic feature and can even become brittle.
Did you ever get a full joist in there? It looked like a scrap
For those that have tight walls don’t over tighten the screws if you don’t have much gap that should make up for it
Awesome
why not install your vinyl flooring under pan before you install it
But I'm using your videos a tutorial to help me install a shower pan fiberglass that is I'm used to making them
How is the Airbnb doing? I have one with two showers I’m preparing to tackle. I was going to do with mortar pan but after doing some research, fiberglass pans seem to be the way to go with Airbnb’s. I guess it’s easier to maintain. Any advice would be great. Thanks and great job.
The AirBnb was going great but I ended up selling this one because I got an offer I couldn't pass up. I had the same thought process as you, mortar seems more elegant but all of the grout lines will make it a pain to clean. My new Lakeside Bnb has a mortar pan shower and a fiberglass shower, the fiberglass is much more convenient and cheaper.
I have a question how does it work with shower liners if I am installing a tiled shower upstairs with a plastic pan do I need a liner also installed?
Thank You!
Doing same job, what did you have to do?
Can you explain what you are doing at 8:10
Is it OK to place the mortar directly onto the sub-floor or plywood?
You should probably seal the wood first to protect the integrity of the wood since alot of water will seep out of that mortar while drying. Great video though. I always over do my projects and make them indestructible haha.
Nice 👍🏼
Gave you a like but I wonder why you said you left a 1/8" space so the base could flex but then you screwed it to the studs with stainless screws. Whats up with that?
Just received my Dreamline shower base. My installation intructions make no mention of drilling and attaching to the studs as you show. Is this something you do for added security? To me, once the wallboard is attached this thing isnt going anywhere! Thanks for sharing!
I've seen it done 3 ways - screwed in the flange directly, screwed above the flange so just the head catches the flange, and no screws at all.
My preference is to screw it into the flange.
I just installed a dreamline door where the instructions show to screw into the acrylic threshold - so by their own standard, it's ok to put screws in this. At least, that's my take...
2 questions? Where do I order that shower pan? And isn't your subflooring suppose to have underlayment before you install mortar bed? TIA
didnt think mortar directly on wood floor was a good idea. Maybe tar paper and metal lathe ???
Yes, do not ever use USB particle board crap for the subflooring sheet material.
According to the instruction of Dreamline, you shouldn’t put any screw on the base lip into the studs. But I have been doing it for all my past shower projects and just watched you screwing the base flange into the studs😅. Any thought about “no screws” instruction from Dreamline? You did a great job and a fantastic video!!!
Anyone has some thoughts why Streamline doesn’t want its shower pan screwed into the studs ?
I'm a rookie at drain pans, but it seems that mortar, drain pipe and the surround would be sufficient to lock in the drain pan from moving? But without those or big gaps between the pan and studs, I would consider siliconed screws and like the flashing idea. I especially like the extra plastic under the curb.
I installed one couple months back , instructions specified NOT to screw into the flange and to only use mortar , I was confused and called them and they told me the exact same thing . I’m sure screwing it down is not a bad thing but as per their instructions it does not require it and in fact they say NOT to very clearly , maybe to avoid it from cracking when being drilled into
i suspect the movement between shower and walls could crack it where the screw holes are that is why they don't recommend it
Use a plastic clip that goes over the sides of the flange and then you screw the upper clip into the stud so there is no hole in the flange.
If you're making that plastic skirt 6" from the edge of the pan, the water will just run 6" and find its way to the wood might as well do the whole floor underneath tiles
So why do you shim it if your inbeding it into the sand mix ?!
My subfloor is concrete, it's a concrete joist system in my house. Would the sand/cement mixture work in my situtation as well?
It will, but you'll need a primer to adhere the mortar to the concrete. These bonding primers are usually in the tile section of hardware stores. You'll need very little for 1 shower
@@KellyConcepts thank you!
Use plumbers putty under the drain flange. Using the caulk/silicone makes it incredibly hard if you ever have to take it apart.
Plumbers putty gets old and cracks marine silicone will last almost forever.
plumbers putty stains acrylic
Depending on what was used. You can use a hair dryer to soften up the silicone and remove the drain. Done it several times repairing hot tubs
Hair driers/ heat guns are good for so many things, shrinking electrical shrink wrap, drying a damp charger port on a mobile phone, amd just the other day I was told that for swelling particle board you can dry it with a heat gun, sand and reseal it with your sealant to repair. Especially useful for swelling in kitchens and bathrooms where water is just starting to leak.
@@davidnolen9537 Some of this shower pans do NOT recommend using plumbers putty. They want you to use silicone.
I presume you used silicone in lieu of the plumbers putty on the drain? I use clear silicone on installs if not using plumbers putty. What you used looked like caulk. If I don't use that rubber gasket on the drain pipe I will pack oakum around pipe and pour a lead joint. When attaching the pan to the studs I use roofing nails.
I agree Joe. Depending on the manufacture of the pan you wouldn't use plumber putty since it could retract with the pan. I used 100% Silicone as recommended by delta shower pans. The bottomline read the pan installation instructions.
your music is so trippy
I'd recommend using silicone to seal under the drain body
Not a good idea to use silicone because in the future if you have to ever have to remove the strainer good luck
I dunno guys why not just use plumbers putty?
@@joshuarobison3295 some shower tray manufactures tell you not to use plumbers putty because it will degrade the material of the shower tray over time.
@@MrDnm2000 mine says dont use putty ... use latex/acrylic sealant... what is that?
When you leave 1/8 inch space on 3 sides, do you drive the screws home or do you tighten them enough to maintain the 1/8 inch?
Looks like he left a gap but hard to tell. Closing that gap with a screw could crack the pan. Personally I like to take up the space with a shim and drill through into the stud.
I keep the 1/8 gap and don't tighten the screws all the way. I should've clarified!
Try placing some 1/8 inch plastic wood / board all the way around. It helps provide the perfect space, is completely waterproof and maintains the gap after tightening screws. Good call on stainless screws
There must be some 2" to 1 1/2" reducer under the house somewhere? Can you tell about that? Many thanks.
Every plumber will tell you to NEVER put a reducer... but if you were to put one, make sure it's on a vertical line, not horizontal. I placed one here because I didn't think to fix it correctly when I ripped open the subfloor and didn't want to have to re-do my floor work. I have access underneath if problems arrive.
I also just finished the 2nd bathroom in this house and plumbed it up the correct way - converting all the pipe to 2" all the way to the main line a few feet away.
Do u just connect the drain to 2 inch abs with abs glue or just plug and play?
There's no need for glue with this, the rubber gasket does all the work on the drain
Will 60x30 dreamline shower pan fit my 58x28 bathtub already have in my master bathroom
yes
I have watched a couple of these videos now, and I am curious about the mortar base. It seems like you just put it down and then set the base on it, doesn't more leveling need to take place? Is the mortar self leveling when you set the base down?
A little more leveling does need to happen but it is very minimal as the pan will press into the mortar pretty nicely. You want to avoid putting a ton of pressure or jumping around in the base with wet mortar or you'll press into it too much and when the mortar dries and ultimately shrinks (the more wet the mortar, the more it'll shrink) , it won't have as strong of a hold on your base as preferred.
@@KellyConcepts awesome, thank you!
@Kelly Concepts I bought a bag of rapid set mortar, it sounds like it should buy thinset mortar for tile with a modifier?
I'm putting in the same shower base my concern is when I mix the mortar after dry fitting the shower base & marking my level lines on the studs when putting the shower base back down I would not be able to get all the mortar out from between the little round feet and the floor which will not allow me to get all the way back down to my level lines I initially marked from dry fitting it. I have done construction for many years from the age of 17 to 35 I am 50 now and done several bathrooms but we never used mortar to lock a shower stall in place. so it's something new to me what does the mortar do? I mean you're locking the shower stall in place by screwing it to the walls and if you have it level all the way around it shouldn't flex. should I try to Mark the feet somehow with something then dry fit it to transfer the marks to the floor? he showers tub on the floor? is the mortar a must? and if so how much mortar to mix? ⅛ inch? ¼ inch? or ½ inch deep? thank you for your time
Hi there! Think of the mortar base as luxury. It is not 100% needed so no matter what you do, you'll be ok with the results. I actually spoke with a contractor on this recently and he has done a hundred shower pans and just sprays the window foam insulation and sets the pan on top of that
However, mortar does help hold the pan in place, keeps it level, and prevents a lot of squeaking that will occur without it.
The idea is to get about an inch of mortar on the entire floor and a little less around the drain hole. Then in the areas that you know need to be raised (unless you have a perfectly flat floor), you will want to add a little bit more mortar to that side.
Once you set the pan on the mortar, you should be level or above your pencil reference lines on the studs. Then tap on the sides that need to be lowered into the mortar until it becomes all level - then let it sit until dry.
The shower pan is very hollow underneath, most of the mortar will just go and fill the voids as you push down the pan.
Saw a video where they recommended not putting the mortar under the round feet. Just in between.
@@toms5094 But how can you do that if there's feet all over the thing?
@@toms5094 Yea but this would seem to be a REAL pain!
The pan was never designed to stand on the floor without the mortor mix under it, it is to flimsy for that to not have mortor under the pan.
In all the videos Ive watched, no one shows if you have to use glue when attaching the drain piece to the pipe, they just show the gasket being tighten down. Also how do you take the whole drain apart, I brought one and can’t take off the top metal part
The metal screen part is difficult to pop off because there's not much room to get a flathead under it. I have to get my fingernails under it