How To Install A Dreamline Shower Base With A Brass Drain! 3 Key Steps You Cannot Overlook!
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- Опубликовано: 27 мар 2021
- How To Install A Dreamline Shower Base With A Brass Drain! 3 Key Steps You Cannot Overlook! Help our family by shopping through this Amazon link: www.amazon.com/shop/countryli... Or Support Us With PayPal at countrylivingexperience@gmail.com
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Maybe it depends on which Dreamline pan you have, but mine, which is just like yours, the instructions do not say to leave the center of the circles free of mortar and it does not say to drill and screw the pan to the studs.
My THANKS !!!! Your the only person on You-Tube who actually explains the height of the 2" pipe up into the drain .. You saved my life, actually you saved my shower !!! I appreciate anyone who does a thorough video on a installation.
You're welcome. I appreciate the kind words.
Same! Not sure how every other video omits this detail!
Excellent job. It is great to see and listen to someone who takes time and covers all steps.
Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
You’re a very good teacher.
Thank you so much Emma!
This is a very good TV show and we love it!
Thank you.
Great video. About to embark on this myself and I’ve been very apprehensive.
Thank you. You can do it!
Thanks for making this video and sharing with us.
You're welcome
A tip that is helpful when leaning over spans like that; screw in some 2x4 or scrap stock about a foot off the floor and on the outside of the studs. It'll give you a handle if you need to something to lean on and just as easy to remove. Blocking for future modifications works well too.
Great tip. Thank you
@@CountryLivingExperience Yes, great tip. I'm about to install a 4" x 3' acrylic pan in a tight corner, on my own. When I was dry fitting it, I could use the open drain hole for grip when lifting it in and out. Just purchased a couple of suction cup grips which appear to be strong enough to lift it with both hands.... I hope. I'm going to be using a solvent weld drain fitting, with no access from under the floor, so I need to lower the pan exactly in position to dock with the riser pipe.
Getting my pan next Wednesday hoping everything goes smoothly. Thanks for the help.
Cool. You’re welcome
Excellent that you explained at the start that the floors need to be leveled and the walls at 90 degrees to be done properly. It is probably obvious but I discovered that my walls and floor have flaws. Saved me some future headache.
Glad we could help.
Great video thanks for this
You're welcome
Perfect! That's everything I needed to know!!! thank youuuuuuu
You're welcome
Very good video, with a lot of tips. Made my installation go very smoothly. Thank you.
Glad it helped
Great video, very informative.
Thanks for sharing
You're welcome
Thanks for this DYI video!
You’re welcome
Very helpful thanks a lot 👍
You're welcome
This is going to help me this weekend to install my shower pan, thank you!!
You’re welcome
Diggin’ the shirt!
Awesome
The Plummer Putty is NOT to be used on plastics, it says that on the container. And written on the plastic drain fitting it says NO oil based sealants. A finished polished fiberglass surface is in the same category as plastics. So I do believe silicon is the best way to go.
This is why I always read the comments. Thanks so much.
Very helpful comment
Plumbers putty is superior. Lasts forever and doesn't mold.
My shower pan from The Onyx Collection came with one small tube (not a cartridge) of "100% silicone" sealant to be used on the drain. They definitely did not want people to use plumber's putty. In my experience, plumber's putty will dry out and crack over the years. I used to work in the plumbing department of a Home Depot. You can be sure that all of the plumbers putty they sell is not for new installations, but repairs. Plumber's putty is old school, like a dial telephone, but if you have to replace the drain, that silicone can hold that drain like you would not believe.
@@foggymtnbreakdown putty definitely will. I had a double sink drain start leaking a year later. And I used the putty designed for the material. Now I silicon everything.
Thank you! Love the shirt!!!
You're welcome and Thank You!
Thanks your channel is awesome !!
Thank you so much!
Excellent video!
Thank you
Great video Thanks
You're welcome
Great video thank you
You're welcome
I like these types of instructions
Thank you. I wish more people did.
OMG I came here looking for tips on installing a shower pan and then I saw the shirt and I let out an excited scream like a 14 yr old girl seeing a puppy. MY MAN! Love me some Ron Paul!
Awesome! Welcome to the channel.
Great video I had a pipe bust in my wall. 72F weather and a copper line just got a hole in it... making repairs and we had to cut out our bathtub putting in a shower which so far has been a real pain. This is a great video and so helpful. Thank you!
Thank you. Glad we could help.
@@CountryLivingExperience I'm still working on my install day 3 of it but been sick with pneumonia trying to do a60"x30" and sending my wife doing the running to store which has been fun having her get everything I forgot. Videos likes yours are helping so much because I can see what I'm in for. However I had to learn that a tub with a 1.5" drain only 4" from the wall vs 2" shower drain 15"
from the wall and learned my house is on a 6" slab it was 'fun'. Once I get some rest I'm doing the walls have to hold the back wall up and put caulking without messing up the caulking without help.
Going to check out more video when I'm do with this project.
@@fryreartechnology7611 Hope you feel better soon. You always find hidden issues when renovating. As an Architect, I found the craziest things in home remodels in the historic district in Houston. Crazy!
@@CountryLivingExperience I could only imagine what you find. My coworker has a house in county middle of nowhere built in the 1890's. His floor joist are rough cut oak 8"x24" logs one end to the other of this 6 bed 4 bath house. The downstairs is over 2500sqft but what's crazy is they have 12" between the floor joist. House walls are over a 12" thick with 1" shiplap inside and out too. It is a tank of a house. Enjoying your channel too
hose older homes are amazing in their construction. I appreciate the kind words.
Great video - Go Green!
Thank you
Go White!
That video is informative
Glad it was helpful
Like the vintage Ron Paul shirt!
Thanks brother! I wish he was in office now.
great video
Thank you
What kind of mortar is under the pan? Regular tile mortar? Husband has this on his to-do list. Thanks for the clear instructions.
Type N is good for this application.
GO GREEN !!! Hi from Comstock Park MI.
Go White!
Love your shirt!🇺🇸
Thank you!
So does the shim come out when you put the shower base on or leave it in the mortar? Did you spread a pretty smooth base or just spotty areas where there weren't any feet? I have a different shower base with many quarter-sized feet. The instructions look like i am to spread a smooth layer over the entire area. I guess I just bury the shim and the feet in the mortar? Go Spartans!
You leave the shim in and bury it. I just left the mortar spotty because you want to have the pan press down on it when you set it in place. If you smooth it first, it may not contact the pan properly (or at all). Go Green!
Thumbs up on the video and two thumbs up for Ron Paul
Awesome!
Extremely helpful!! Bonus: fantastic shirt.
Glad it was helpful!
You had me at Ron Paul! Liberty First!
Awesome!
For brass drain, i assume it was only connect by gasket and top plate to the abs or pvc pipe, right?
Yes. Gasket and compression nut.
I like it. // -- And we have to keep Ron Paul to the best place too.
i guess I'm kind of randomly asking but do anybody know of a good site to stream new series online?
@Ace Royal Flixportal =)
@Asher Emanuel Thanks, I went there and it seems like a nice service :D I really appreciate it!
@Ace Royal happy to help :D
The non-threaded oatey brass drain. The one that comes with the rubber gasket and 2 plastic round parts. How does that install around the pipe?
Is it ok to tighten manually after putting the putty, then do the final tightening with the screw driver method a 1-2 weeks later if the base isn't in its final place yet? This is what I had to do because I found out it needs more tightening. Or, should I unscrew everything and redo the putty?
Unfortunately probably not because the putt has already cured and hardened some. I would redo the putty.
Can you install the drain raiser pipe after mortaring the pan? I have great access underneath to do it afterwards. I just don’t see why you can’t unless you can think of anything?
You could do that. If you have great access underneath, it may work out easier for you.
Nice shirt!!
Thanks brother
Hey watched this multiple times. Thanks. About ready set my 30x60 Dreamline pan onto upstairs bathroom. Have couple concerns. 1. Had taking old tub out adjusted 2” ABS pipe to fit. Ready to glue PTrap below before putting on vertical piece. Up to drain. You mentioned approx 1/4” above subfloor and install the Oatly drain in pan first? Sure wish I’d got 32” pan instead of 30. Due to the alcove from tub being 321/2x61 I opted to scab 2x3X95” onto existing back wall studs. Ii brings curb flush with existing baseboard on left side of alcove. The head side wall runs straight behind toilet on past 36” vanity. Due to elbow room very tight with 30” pan. Im doing a 5” x16x42” niche positioned from head wall on back @ 48”-64”up from pan. It allows an extra 5” elbow room showering. Not doing a kneewall then door so plan glass at outside edge of curb. On head wall will rub tile on past curb accommodating 32” tile. On rear wall only will have 291/2” after durarock up from flange on up..
With plumbing noticed your pex. Perhaps could share a recommendation. The R/I valve be for the old Moen-trol Chataeu model being phased out. Hence regretfully last year had bought a $95 LED panel system off eBay. With planning to sell home concerned bout altering plumbing for it and potential buyers qualms with a no name cheap Chinese product with sketchy warranty. Practice solution being replace old valve with decent new universal on enabling more trim options. Would appreciate your suggestions?
Didn’t realize lengthy message so will cut here. Last thing it was suggested to run strips of 2” rigid foam board under curb and perimeter under pan avoiding pitter patter water sound? Thanks again. Great video!
I am unsure of your specific questions.
The Dreamline pans come with an instruction booklet for installation. I am installing a 60 x 30 pan and can tell you the instructions say the drain pipe must terminate 1 inch below the top of the pan. Because the exact pan height can vary when you are leveling it, here is what you do: dry fit the pan, check for level and shim it if necessary so it's perfectly level. Mark the drain pipe flush with the pan using a sharpie. You should also mark the studs where the flange sits against them while level, that way you have reference when you pour the mortar and set the pan into it. 2. remove the pan, measure 1 inch below the marking on your drain pipe and cut it there. Alternatively, install the pan in mortar, make sure all your marks on the studs line up and it's level, LET THE MORTAR SETUP COMPLETELY overnight, then come back and cut the drain pipe 1 inch below the top using an inside pipe cutter to cut 1 inch off. All you have to do is mark with a sharpie or paint marker 1 inch from the bottom of the cutter bit, stick the cutter in the drain pipe until the mark is flush with the pan, and carefully cut it out.
As usual, there are multiple ways to accomplish what you want to do, use whichever one you are most comfortable with.
If we forgot to remove the plastic shrink wrap covering on the shower pan, do we need to pull up our pan and start again? Thanks for the informative video!
You're welcome. You don't need to pull it up. Just try to remove the plastic the best you can.
Thanks for the video I installed one of these recently but I didn't use any mortar or foam hope that it holds okay mine didn't come with instructions but I did use aqua defense under it and used stainless steel screws just cause I thought it was a good idea good to at least confirm I did that right.
You're welcome. The aqua defense should work great.
What happens if no mortar. I did not use om 1 bathroom.
Dont want to tear it apart at this point
@@benzun9600 I haven’t had any issues not using mortar been using my shower pan for a little while and I’m 270lbs so I don’t think it’s necessary.
I have the same question my plumber used piece of plywood underneath the base, it’s the right way to do it??
I’m very nervous won’t hold 250 pounds person using the shower
this has been installed inside of
24 x 12 shed
Waiting for your prompt respond 🙏🏻
Great video!!! was it 2" Oatey 42150 NC Brass drain? Thanks!
Thank you. It was a 2" Oatey brass but I don't remember the exact model number. I think I have a link in the video description to the one I used.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks for the quick reply!!! I found it on Amazon👍
Sweet shirt!
Thank you my friend!
What brand is that brass fitting? Do you have a link where I can pick it up at HD?
The brass drain is an Oatey. They have them at HD or you can use this Amazon link....amzn.to/3mixdqK
Nice Shirt!!!
Thank you
I just had a new Dreamline Slimline 32” x60”shower base with solid surface shower unit installed professionally and no where in the instructions did it say to drill and screw the base to the studs.. only to use thin set mortar underneath. Mine is solid without any movement at all..
It is common professional practice to screw it to the studs.
@@CountryLivingExperience Yes sir. It is the method I was taught 35 years ago. Great video.
@@Alamyst2011 Thank you!
It's not in the instructions and will good your insurance and warranty. Also, you're not letting it expand.
That shirt earned my respect an sub lol
Nice! Welcome to the channel.
I’m confused. The mortar you put under the shower was it place over the whole shower floor or outside the circular rings under the shower platform?
Just in the areas outside of the circular rings.
@@CountryLivingExperience -- Just wanted to tell you that when you respond to these types of questions that you're helping many others like myself and its very much appreciated.
Yea, I was confused as well because, no offense meant, he glossed over that part and didn’t really show drawing lines on the floor to avoid putting mortar or the mortar before setting the floor down.
So, you draw lines where the rings in the bottom of the pan are. You can make a template out of cardboard. You mix enough mortar to plop down in all of the areas outside the floor bottom rings. Now how much to mix up and put down is unclear. He said for this floor, he used 1/3 of a 60 lb bag.
So I’m guessing you would need enough to fill in the entire pan (less the rings which need to set directly on the wood floor) and squeeze to fill in or even over flow into the walls if there’s too much.
I’ll be trying this soon. Great video series on doing this.
Great video! One question, around the 7:07 mark in the video, it shows the drain a tiny bit elevated on the shower pan, this will cause water to pool around the drain, is this expected?
Thanks. That tiny bit of elevation does not harm anything. I mentioned that you can put some silicone in that space if you like.
I would’ve liked to seen how much mortar you put down.
After the locking ring compressed the gasket, was it left in?
Yes
I have a 60×30 in pan what is all needed for this
One last thing. What’s involved if wanting change color of pan from white to something darker and what to utilize doing so? Thx
I have no idea.
I'm about to install a 4' x 3' acrylic shower pan very similar to the one in your video - Voda brand, made in Quebec. I'm trying to understand why you specifically avoided putting mortar where the circular 'feet' are ? Since they are there to support the pan, surely they need to be in contact with the mortar. Indeed, the instructions for the pan I'm installing specify that the mortar should spread evenly over the entire area and then after lowering the pan in place pressure should be applied to ensure that the mortar is in contact with the entire bottom surface of pan. So I'm confused as to why you did that ?
That was in the instructions for the Dreamline pan. It makes sense because the mortar under the round feet can have aggregate that would make the feet a bit uneven.
@@CountryLivingExperience Hadn't considered that possibility. Never done this before. Actually, I've already leveled the floor where the pan will go with self leveling cement (over 3/4" OSB) - 1/4" thick at the highest point, 3/8" at the lowest - it's now perfectly flat. Which is good, as I'm going to be tiling the floor around the pan on Ditra XL, which is 3/8" thick installed. The pan, I discovered however, did not lay perfectly flat and I had to sand down several of the support rings on the underside a little to get them all flush. Even still, there is a very slight wobble. What's not clear to me is whether 'the entire bottom surface of the base' mentioned in the instructions refers to the (PVC) support rings or whether the mortar bed needs to be thick enough to come in contact with the fiberglass also when the pan is embedded. Phoned the manufacturer to try and get some advice but couldn't speak to anyone who actually installs. The Customer Service guy even had the impression that if the floor is perfectly flat the pan only needs to be screwed to the wall studs - some people do that apparently ! When I told him that the pan was not perfectly flat he suggested putting some thin-set under the support rings only, which is contrary to the instructions and the opposite of what you did. I'm wondering if the best option might be to lay a bed of thin-set with a notched trowel and cover it with some plastic sheet so it doesn't grab the fiberglass underside. I don't want the pan to sit any higher than it is.
@@BryWorYT If your floor was perfectly flat, I would have not modified the pan by sanding off the feet.Those things are made precisely for drainage. If is was not flat I would have returned it. Install it the best you can to get the proper drainage. Dump a test bucket of water in it before you secure it to the wall or set it in mortar.
@@CountryLivingExperience Too late now to return it. Have to get the base installed this weekend - I'm already way behind on the bathroom 're-model' and no excuses now that it's too cold to mix mortar. I just assumed the feet were not perfectly flush because it IS intended to be installed on a bed of mortar. It is level, now, when I lay it down dry, but there is a little flexing when I press down on one corner. Thanks for the advice anyway.
I emailed the company to get their advice in writing. Their response was the same as before - "If the floor is perfectly flat (which it is) you can fill the support rings with mortar to excess before installing it. This will add extra structural support and make sure it's leveled". Evidently then the rings are designed to provide full support and there is no need to pack mortar up to the fiberglass in between the rings. No comment about the fact that the rings were not perfectly flush though.
geez i'm helping my sister turn a 💩shack into a she-shack and i am running into some insane contractor prices....!! so i figure to do it myself & this vid was great- and i love that someone in his family used the spray foam bcs that's exactly what i was thinking to use lol👍
Awesome!
There is a reason the can of foam says door and window, contractors are notorious corner cutters, the foam buckles under pressure, it is not for support. Use the mortar like it says, take the time and don’t corner cut like these contractors who are looking to shave time to make more money….NOtice He didn’t use it either, just mentioned it but decided not to try it…hello! RED FLAG I’d say.
Do you put your screws in while the mortor is wet and drying? Or after 24 hours?
Before the mortar dried
Liked-Subscribed-Notified -Nice Hat. You from Michigan?
Glad to have you here. Yes, I grew up in MI. Went to MSU and grad school at Andrews U.
Ron paul is the man!
Heck yea!
What if you screw it in the studs and put weight in there for a day, what will happen?
My plumber used a piece of plywood underneath the base is that safe?
This shower has been installed inside of 24 x 12 shed, it will be used by 250 pounds person do you think I should be worried about this??
I would use the mortar. It is a more solid and stable base. Plywood may tend to flex a bit. Flexing in the base will crack it over time.
@@CountryLivingExperience thank you very much!!
You're welcome.
I set my shower base without any mortar since the underside was a honeycomb design for support and have had no problems for over 7 years now. Why is the mortar necessary?
Glad it worked for you without. The company recommends the mortar for a more solid support base.
WOW after all these links not one for the base shower pan??
Would it make sense to level the entire bathroom floor before installing the shower pan?
No. I think that would be too much extra work and cost. Especially in a renovation vs new construction.
@@CountryLivingExperience - thanks for the response. I also want to remove the old floor and lay down LVP and the floors need to be level.
In that case, it would work out to just level the entire area.
What is the drain called that you used?
We used an Oatey Brass 2" shower drain. Here is the link: amzn.to/3yIXaUX
Which shower pan did you use?
It is the Dreamline Slimline 36x48
Do you need to screw the pan. You might compromise the water seal.
It is common professional practice to screw the pan. The screws should be high enough so no water will wick up. You can use a silicone in the screw hole if you like.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thank you.
@@transformationofthebride2295 You're welcome
Just talked to Dreamline. Screwing the surround to studs will void your warranty!
Where did you get the screws from? What thickness and length are they?
Just got them from the hardware store. I don't remember the size. Just remember to get a flat flange screw and not a tapered head screw.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks!
Or you could countersink the screws
GO BLUE!
lol. Go Green!
Too bad KW 3 ran for five TDs against your so called playoff team. Go Green AGAIN!
It would be very valuable to indicated how much mortar to mix up. I mixed up 9 - 1lb cans of mortar & felt it was barely enough. otherwise this was an extremely valuable video!!
I used a 1/3 of a 60lb bag and mixed it myself.
Thanks for the tutorial. Was very helpful. I have to say though I have the 60” pan and used a whole 80lb bag and that was really not enough. The majority of the base should come into contact with the mortar minus the feet like you mentioned.
@@Ahambric1998 How do you know where not to put the mortar or maybe I should ask how do I mark where the feet are going to hit? Thanks
Ok FIRST, Love the shirt! Don't even care about the video. But good video non the less!
Appreciate it!
nicely done,very clear,easy to follow, always thought I was a bit of an anal perfectionist, you are even worse than me with the redguard underneath, if it leaked would just drip bellow through the hole that drain passes through. no ?Dreamline has added no screws as a way to weasel out of any claims as its pretty much an industry standard. my thoughts. Why use slip fit drain if access from below is available?
Thank you. Yes, I think those screws are a must too. I did a slip drain because I am most comfortable with that type.
I dont have good luck with puddy gets moldy leaks i see a lot of plumbers avoiding puddy.
I’m sure you already answered but I like to know what kind of motar did you use and how much? Thank you
Just a regular bed mortar from Home Depot. How much depends on how you fill in around the pan. I used maybe a half bag.
@@CountryLivingExperience I just got a 25 ib repid set motar mix from homedepot for my 42 inch neo angle pan. Hopefully its enogh.
@@CountryLivingExperience I don't how many times I've come back to watch your video😀. My Dreamline shower pan is finally here. The problem is the plumber installed rough in pipe off the center of the shower pan hole. I can try to force the pipe a bit and put the Oatey ring in. I am afraid it cause problems later on. any ideas?
@@harbinguy1 You may have to re-plumb that drain pipe. You don't want it to be off that much at all.
I have insulation coming from the drain hole sides. I know this is wrong. And the pipe is smaller I think is been leaking to my floor. No gasket and no lock
Sounds like you need to redo everything.
There seems to be a big gap between the drain and the pvc pipe - Is that a problem ??
Yes, you need the proper size drain pipe or drain assembly.
What's wrong with if mortar gets in those round feet? Just won't seat properly? Just curious. Thank you
You just want those feet to have perfect contact with the subfloor.
Go blue😎
Same as above. I had a great time at State. Wouldn't trake it for a M degree from the toilet paper roll.
Nice video with clear instructions (I will
won't comment about shirt as I was thought if can't say something nice..).
But yet here you are.. commenting on the shirt 😂
so you put down redguard in case of leaks from your shower pan but you have a huge square hole opening around your drain?
Redguard is to preserve the wood from rotting in case of a leak (which is what I just repaired). I live on a sloped dirt crawlspace with open sides. I do not care if some water drips down to that crawlspace.
Is it necessary to put that red paint on it or what kind of liquid is it?
That is not paint. It is a liquid waterproofing membrane. It is not 100% necessary. Just an added precaution.
@@CountryLivingExperience This weekend I want to put a shower like that and that is why I am asking, is the cement necessary?
@@fernando75ful Cool. The mortar is necessary in my opinion. It makes for a very stable and solid base for the shower pan to sit on.
@@CountryLivingExperience MORTAR is like sand or cement ???
It is a mixture of both. You can find it at Home Depot or Lowes.
Go State Bro. Where do you live in Michigan (guess). Also how much do you charge for a job like this that is completely demoed?
Go Green! I grew up in the northern suburbs of Detroit and went to undergrad and grad school there. Left when I was 31. I have been living in Texas for the last 10 years.
@@CountryLivingExperience I actually live in Clarkston which may be close to your original home.... Texas sounds much better than metro detroity. im not a big fan of this area. not t all. I grew up in Ludington and there is quite a difference between the two areas.
@@kdr-ql7pz Very cool. I have friends who still live in Clarkston. Ludington is a beautiful place for sure.
@Country Living Experience: A Homesteading Journey thank you sir. Can't wait to leave Michigan though. So many other places to live that are better.
Unfortunately, I'm 20 years into my career as an engineer in the automotive industry. Its hard to find comparable companies. Plus my kids are still in school.
Best of luck. It's great to hear from a fellow spartan.
The instructions for the DreamLine pan say nothing about screwing the pan to the wall studs, why do you? I assume that if the pan fails because of the screws it will not be covered under warranty.
It is common practice to screw it. I will seal the screw holes with silicone.
@@CountryLivingExperience so this is the reply, to the same question, that I received from DreamLine.
DreamLine does not require nor do we recommend securing our bases to studs, the mortar bed (with finished wall on top) will suffice. If you choose to attach the base to studs, it will void the warranty and may end up damaging the base.
@@UncommonSense1776 ok. Don't do it then
sure, except my dreamline pan is bowed at least 1/2". I used 2/3 bag of mortar and it was rock solid but now it popped up 2 days later. I will need to screw it or at least clip it down somehow.
is this a dreamline slimline shower base?
Yes
RON Paul miss him
Absolutely!
I would not use the Foam unless the manufacturer said it was ok. Chemicals in the foam and chemicals in the plastics may not be loving on each other after a few years. It is your floor, you are the one that may have to tear it up if it breaks down.
You didn't show the press down part.
It's pretty easy. Just press it down and level it.
Love the shirt. Ron Paul 08' and we wouldn't be in the mess we are today, or he'd have been Clinton'd
We could have certainly turned this country around.
"We covered that in our last video at the top of the screen."
Nothing appears at the top of the screen.
I will check on the link for you. Don't worry.
The link is not broken. The video card is present. Here is the link if you cannot find it on the video.....ruclips.net/video/48jTFnNPpjE/видео.html
Where are steps 4, 5 and 6?
No Foam
End the fed anyone?.. And from another country...
Awesome.
We should.
The foam works....but...we're not gonna use it. :)
And?
Ron Paul RESPECT
Awesome
Wow! Do not use foam under your pan, it has no integrity, you can literally smush it with your finger when it’s dry unlike concrete…
The non-expanding window and door foam is more dense and compacts less. It is a different formulation and would work. I do agree mortar works a bit better which is why I used it.
@@CountryLivingExperience I don’t know what brand you are talking about but the window and door foam from Home Depot is not dense at all!! A froth pack (closed cell) would probably be ok but motar is still a way to go…