Great video. However, the MOST difficult part of this job is disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel filter. 20 threads and 5 videos later this is what I learned! FINESSE the release of the fuel line from fuel filter. First, spray WD-40 into fuel line coupling. Use paper towels to to clean filter fuel line. Insert fuel disconnect tool into fuel line until you hear a snap or not. ROTATE disconnect tool to begin releasing each clip inside the fuel line.( You cannot see clips they are inside the fuel line.) If it pops out reinsert it 4 different angles to release each clip. Keep the fuel filter line clean while reinserting tool. Also the TRICK is to push the fuel line into the filter while pushing the tool into the clip!!! Good Luck.
Despite the antagonistic comments I think you guys did a great job with this. Only one of the 3 videos I watched that bothered to mention where the blasted thing is located. I also understand disconnecting the power. And pulling the fuse to drain the pressure sounds like a good idea too. Thanks guys!
"Here we have some gloves to keep gasoline from getting on your hands." Doesn't touch gloves. Thug Life. And isn't it easier just to use the Schrader valve to relieve the fuel pressure? That is what it's there for after all. Cranking just stresses the starter. Doesn't seem like much when you do it, but it adds up if you do it like that if you actually do your filter every "15,000 miles"
Antonio Aguilar hmmm. And starting your vehicle doesn't stress it? Plus, there's less mess to clean up, less risk to spill gas. Their way is better. I wonder if you've ever replaced a light bulb let alone a fuel filter.
Antonio Aguilar So, you didn't try to refute my answer. But you did try unsuccessfully to gripe about it. Don't worry, in a world where everyone's smarter than you, you can rest assured that if you have a little money then you too can hire someone to do your mechanic work. You actually spoke very truly of yourself. Your comment was intensely idiotic and made zero sense. WHY would cranking the starter produce more stress on the starter than normal cranking of the starter. What about the spray from the Schrader valve, if the vehicle even has one? Not all do. Why not avoid the spray entirely? See? You have been called out for attention seeking, for using dimwitted thoughts that make no sense to make yourself appear smarter than you are.
Well, being a mechanic since 1974 I can tell you I never used gloves unless I was welding, heating or cutting. Tried those new gloves they're not bad, but I just can't get used to 'em. Your post you sound more like one of those new young up and coming "automotive technicians."
Much obliged for the very detailed tutorial on how to change a fuel filter on a 1997 Ford F150 4x4 pickup truck. I did not know about the safety precautions of disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and the fuse for the fuel pump. Sad to say we have been ignorant of this safety concern where I come from :(.
Canadian made f-150 -there's absolutely no room to remove disconnected filter backwards out of mount as shown, too close to fuel tank - you have to disconnect the clamp on the lower steel tube at rubber hose, carefully bend tubing downward, push filter forward & then you have just barely enough room to pull it out. Pain on the hands, esp, when it's -29C. There's a special place in hell for engineers- " step 1-install fuel filter in mount, then, step 2- build truck around it." I swear they get stupider as the years roll by. They should have to freeze their butts off while they try to repair the junk they design- we'd get better vehicles.
I found it a helluva lot easier to get the quick disconnect tool in and work it properly by yanking the filter out of its carrier/clip first. I just got changed one and I could not get the tool to work and break the line free. I had just done one on a Mustang with the tank and fuel system out of the car, piece of cake. So. I yanked the filter out and a few seconds later was replacing the (new) filter in the clip.
Excellent video guys and thank you. I did the procedure and all went well until I reconnected the front fuel filter to the fuel line. I did not get the click sound and the fuel filter would not stay in the fuel line. I found the problem as it was the metal type clip that holds the line onto the filter was all mashed up inside the fuel line hose. I managed to get it out and straighten it out and make it round again and placed it back inside the fuel line but still can't get the click sound and the filter can be pulled out of the line. When I place the clip on that holds the two together it holds fine but should I leave it like this or is their such a thing as buying this round metal part that stays inside the fuel line end? If so what is this part called? THANKS for any advice
I'm getting ready to do this procedure. How much fuel spills after the lines have been disconnected from the fuel filter? Does it constantly dribble until they're reconnected? Are we talking a cup of gas? A gallon? Thanks?
on my truck there is no clearance to get a fuel filter removal tool to fit as shown in the video. on my 1997 f350 with a 7.5L v8 gas engine it seems as if the lines are almost touching the body of the filter itself, no room to fit that tool. Anyone know how to get it off?
Does any manufacturer make a tool that fits without having to modify? I just picked up a $7 tool at autozone for my 2001 Ford Ranger to remove the fuel line. The piece of garbage broke on my first attempt to remove the line.
What the hec do you do when the engine side line wont unlock off the filter. My 97 F-150 XLT 4.6L Supercab 4x4 has factory lines and the rear coupler to the filter is bigger than the front coupler. Ford tool took off rear coupler just fine, but the blinking front smaller size coupler won't unlock for nothing........ I don't know what to do.
Same thing. Spent a long time under my 97 XLT 2 months ago trying to undo the engine-side (so-called) quick-connect and finally gave up. With the engine running rough and many sleepless nights dreaming having to learn all about injector service on youtube, I have decided I better get out there today and try again.
Although the line looks smaller the same end of the tool worked for me. I pulled the filter out of its clip before trying to get in there and remove the line. Was easy after that.
+TW Portre He did wear the gloves in one of the opening shots. But then when it came down to fighting those aweful clips the gloves came off. Literally.
For anyone with a standard cab, the removal of the old filter isn't as simple. Once you disconnect the old filter from the lines and the bracket, use a socket wrench to take off the bracket. Because of the location of the fuel tank on the standard cab, this is the only way we could find to take it off.
Absolutely no reason that Ford couldn't have used a better design to hold the fuel lines onto the filter. I went to the auto store and rented the special Ford fuel line removal tool - did not work. I don't know which is worse, this or the head design (a spark plug job takes more work to get at the spark plugs than changing the plugs).
Joeprankster 100 pull the fuse to make sure the pump doesn't send more fuel through the lines when you release the pressure. You can do it without removing the fuse but you won't be able to release the pressure in the lines and you will end up with a significant fuel spill.
Its a good video of removing and reinstalling the filter except two things that are wrong. First thing is that it served absolutely no purpose to disconnect the battery ground at all. Because f you remove the pump fuse and then start engine to use fuel in the lines the circuits have been used while battery is still hooked up so what on earth is the reason to disconnect the battery other than the cause a person to possibly have to go through another drive cycle possibly to reset ready monitors?????????? Next area I disagree with is the running of the engine to use up which would also be any fuel still in the injectors which will in turn only invite injector failure of older border line injectors????? The best way is to simply wait at least 15 minutes from the last time the vehicle ran and wear eye protection and hold a rag over the connection when disconnecting the filter fuel line. Your video looks intelligent but is actually STUPID to mechanics as myself with 44 years experience
So do you have sparks around you when you put fuel in your tank at the gas station? How would my battery ignite any spilled fuel as you say on the ground by the fuel filter location? Pressure isn't at the fuel filter any way on the vacuum side. Where are all these sparks you speak of? There is no sparks at the fuel filter. If the pressure regulator valve at the injector rail ever failed it would flow directly back to the fuel tank meaning no pressure is in the vacuum side. Disconnecting battery is a totally unnecessary action . Running the fuel from the rail and injectors empty with fuel pump fuse disconnected is also totally retarder because pressure isn't on the vacuum side where the filter is. So bt these two retarded stunts when you restrt engine you will receive not only a 2 bank lean error code but will also have to go through another ready monitor drive cycle
Earl Guyton sparks don't just come at the battery. They can happen anywhere there is an electrical connection. Unless you disconnect the source. Better safe then sorry. And as long as you turn the key without starting the vehicle so that the pump pumps fuel back to the injectors you will not have lean codes come up. Folks, listen to the mechanic, not the RUclips keyboard warrior.
Great video. However, the MOST difficult part of this job is disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel filter. 20 threads and 5 videos later this is what I learned! FINESSE the release of the fuel line from fuel filter. First, spray WD-40 into fuel line coupling. Use paper towels to to clean filter fuel line. Insert fuel disconnect tool into fuel line until you hear a snap or not. ROTATE disconnect tool to begin releasing each clip inside the fuel line.( You cannot see clips they are inside the fuel line.) If it pops out reinsert it 4 different angles to release each clip. Keep the fuel filter line clean while reinserting tool. Also the TRICK is to push the fuel line into the filter while pushing the tool into the clip!!! Good Luck.
I'm getting ready to do this on our truck, and appreciate you showing the tools needed to accomplish this procedure.
Despite the antagonistic comments I think you guys did a great job with this. Only one of the 3 videos I watched that bothered to mention where the blasted thing is located. I also understand disconnecting the power. And pulling the fuse to drain the pressure sounds like a good idea too. Thanks guys!
Thank you guys so much for the video. I've never changed one before and you made it really easy. Thank you
Stopped all my misfire issues thanks good video will pass down
Thanks guys. Great step by step instructions. Like the modified tool part!
Great video, just got done replacing it, worked exactly as you said. Thanks.
A good, quick way to depressurize the fuel line. This is very clear. Good job.
\
Thanks for the VID, well done guys.
Thanks for the video. It made the job very easy.
Thanks for a great video .. needed to know how .. and I found it here !! Thanks !! GD Tractor
Thanks for the video it really helped.
"Here we have some gloves to keep gasoline from getting on your hands."
Doesn't touch gloves.
Thug Life.
And isn't it easier just to use the Schrader valve to relieve the fuel pressure? That is what it's there for after all. Cranking just stresses the starter. Doesn't seem like much when you do it, but it adds up if you do it like that if you actually do your filter every "15,000 miles"
Antonio Aguilar hmmm. And starting your vehicle doesn't stress it? Plus, there's less mess to clean up, less risk to spill gas. Their way is better. I wonder if you've ever replaced a light bulb let alone a fuel filter.
I wonder if you've done any professional work, or if you're a backyard oil changer who uses comebacks like that to feel important in the industry? Lol
Antonio Aguilar So, you didn't try to refute my answer. But you did try unsuccessfully to gripe about it. Don't worry, in a world where everyone's smarter than you, you can rest assured that if you have a little money then you too can hire someone to do your mechanic work. You actually spoke very truly of yourself. Your comment was intensely idiotic and made zero sense. WHY would cranking the starter produce more stress on the starter than normal cranking of the starter. What about the spray from the Schrader valve, if the vehicle even has one? Not all do. Why not avoid the spray entirely? See? You have been called out for attention seeking, for using dimwitted thoughts that make no sense to make yourself appear smarter than you are.
Well, being a mechanic since 1974 I can tell you I never used gloves unless I was welding, heating or cutting. Tried those new gloves they're not bad, but I just can't get used to 'em. Your post you sound more like one of those new young up and coming "automotive technicians."
hah your right
Much obliged for the very detailed tutorial on how to change a fuel filter on a 1997 Ford F150 4x4 pickup truck. I did not know about the safety precautions of disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and the fuse for the fuel pump. Sad to say we have been ignorant of this safety concern where I come from :(.
Canadian made f-150 -there's absolutely no room to remove disconnected filter backwards out of mount as shown, too close to fuel tank - you have to disconnect the clamp on the lower steel tube at rubber hose, carefully bend tubing downward, push filter forward & then you have just barely enough room to pull it out. Pain on the hands, esp, when it's -29C. There's a special place in hell for engineers- " step 1-install fuel filter in mount, then, step 2- build truck around it." I swear they get stupider as the years roll by. They should have to freeze their butts off while they try to repair the junk they design- we'd get better vehicles.
Thank you for this video. I helped out with all of it.🤗😁👍🏼🤓
thanks guys that was a big help
Great video Thank you
Thank you guys so much
it sure did help,,thank you very much,,,,,,,
I found it a helluva lot easier to get the quick disconnect tool in and work it properly by yanking the filter out of its carrier/clip first. I just got changed one and I could not get the tool to work and break the line free. I had just done one on a Mustang with the tank and fuel system out of the car, piece of cake. So. I yanked the filter out and a few seconds later was replacing the (new) filter in the clip.
Thanks gonna go under she got 4 inch lift plus factory tires size, almost new. Thanks keep talk updated
Thank you very much!!!
Excellent video guys and thank you. I did the procedure and all went well until I reconnected the front fuel filter to the fuel line. I did not get the click sound and the fuel filter would not stay in the fuel line. I found the problem as it was the metal type clip that holds the line onto the filter was all mashed up inside the fuel line hose. I managed to get it out and straighten it out and make it round again and placed it back inside the fuel line but still can't get the click sound and the filter can be pulled out of the line. When I place the clip on that holds the two together it holds fine but should I leave it like this or is their such a thing as buying this round metal part that stays inside the fuel line end? If so what is this part called? THANKS for any advice
Definitely needing to do this on my "new" truck - filter is stock with 300kmiles. 😅😅
I'm getting ready to do this procedure. How much fuel spills after the lines have been disconnected from the fuel filter? Does it constantly dribble until they're reconnected? Are we talking a cup of gas? A gallon? Thanks?
Great job. Thanks for the video.
Great video, thanks for share your knowlege, make this work for me and save me some bucks.
What tool did you use for the lines?
What do you need to flat screwed ? for a never seen you use it.
Can u explain where exactly you grinded the 8th of an inch off the tool you can't tell in the video other then that great video
Does this process work for a Ford Econoline e250??
WHAT IF I DAMAGED THE CLIPS ON THE QUICK DISCONNECT FUEL FILTER LINES, HOW CAN I REPLACE THEM
Was that truck running with the garage door shut? What was that noise in the beginning
on my truck there is no clearance to get a fuel filter removal tool to fit as shown in the video. on my 1997 f350 with a 7.5L v8 gas engine it seems as if the lines are almost touching the body of the filter itself, no room to fit that tool. Anyone know how to get it off?
Is that a motocraft fuel filter?
Is that what cause stock out fuild and losing power
so the arrow goes to the motor?
Yes buddy
Is the same procedure good for 98 V6 F-150? Same location for fuel pump fuse?
It should be, it was this way on my 98 ranger, diference is on the ranger it was easier to take out the filter
ok, thanks!
Should be all frames were the same from 97 to 03
Does any manufacturer make a tool that fits without having to modify? I just picked up a $7 tool at autozone for my 2001 Ford Ranger to remove the fuel line. The piece of garbage broke on my first attempt to remove the line.
What the hec do you do when the engine side line wont unlock off the filter. My 97 F-150 XLT 4.6L Supercab 4x4 has factory lines and the rear coupler to the filter is bigger than the front coupler. Ford tool took off rear coupler just fine, but the blinking front smaller size coupler won't unlock for nothing........ I don't know what to do.
Same thing. Spent a long time under my 97 XLT 2 months ago trying to undo the engine-side (so-called) quick-connect and finally gave up. With the engine running rough and many sleepless nights dreaming having to learn all about injector service on youtube, I have decided I better get out there today and try again.
Although the line looks smaller the same end of the tool worked for me. I pulled the filter out of its clip before trying to get in there and remove the line. Was easy after that.
The gloves are there to make you look like a ASE certified mechanic
+TW Portre
He did wear the gloves in one of the opening shots. But then when it came down to fighting those aweful clips the gloves came off. Literally.
How come my quick disconnect fittings never come apart that easy?
For anyone with a standard cab, the removal of the old filter isn't as simple. Once you disconnect the old filter from the lines and the bracket, use a socket wrench to take off the bracket. Because of the location of the fuel tank on the standard cab, this is the only way we could find to take it off.
it's a fuel filter wrench
Absolutely no reason that Ford couldn't have used a better design to hold the fuel lines onto the filter. I went to the auto store and rented the special Ford fuel line removal tool - did not work. I don't know which is worse, this or the head design (a spark plug job takes more work to get at the spark plugs than changing the plugs).
Just be glad you can still get to it without dropping the tank like modern cars.
why do you pull fuse and everything
Joeprankster 100 pull the fuse to make sure the pump doesn't send more fuel through the lines when you release the pressure. You can do it without removing the fuse but you won't be able to release the pressure in the lines and you will end up with a significant fuel spill.
And the gloves???
I was wondering the same thing. The piece of shit I have doesn't fit the whole way.
Everything went well until i got everyting back together and now my truck wont start
You put the filter on backwards. Or you didn't prime it, or you have no gas
secan2006saturn
Its a good video of removing and reinstalling the filter except two things that are wrong. First thing is that it served absolutely no purpose to disconnect the battery ground at all. Because f you remove the pump fuse and then start engine to use fuel in the lines the circuits have been used while battery is still hooked up so what on earth is the reason to disconnect the battery other than the cause a person to possibly have to go through another drive cycle possibly to reset ready monitors?????????? Next area I disagree with is the running of the engine to use up which would also be any fuel still in the injectors which will in turn only invite injector failure of older border line injectors????? The best way is to simply wait at least 15 minutes from the last time the vehicle ran and wear eye protection and hold a rag over the connection when disconnecting the filter fuel line. Your video looks intelligent but is actually STUPID to mechanics as myself with 44 years experience
Earl Guyton it was done just as a safety precaution to ensure there were no sparks around spilled fuel.
So do you have sparks around you when you put fuel in your tank at the gas station? How would my battery ignite any spilled fuel as you say on the ground by the fuel filter location? Pressure isn't at the fuel filter any way on the vacuum side. Where are all these sparks you speak of? There is no sparks at the fuel filter. If the pressure regulator valve at the injector rail ever failed it would flow directly back to the fuel tank meaning no pressure is in the vacuum side. Disconnecting battery is a totally unnecessary action . Running the fuel from the rail and injectors empty with fuel pump fuse disconnected is also totally retarder because pressure isn't on the vacuum side where the filter is. So bt these two retarded stunts when you restrt engine you will receive not only a 2 bank lean error code but will also have to go through another ready monitor drive cycle
Earl Guyton sparks don't just come at the battery. They can happen anywhere there is an electrical connection. Unless you disconnect the source. Better safe then sorry. And as long as you turn the key without starting the vehicle so that the pump pumps fuel back to the injectors you will not have lean codes come up. Folks, listen to the mechanic, not the RUclips keyboard warrior.
Terrible video. You can't see. To dark.