How to Replace Your Fuel Pump in Less than 30 Minutes* | 1995 Ford F150
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- In this video, I show you how to replace a fuel pump assembly in less than 45 minutes. I don’t remove the bed of the truck or drain the tank and drop it. I cut an access hatch in the bed to reach the pump. After that, you simple unscrew the pump retenton ring, pull the bad pump out, and insert the new fuel pump.
* Fuel pump can be replqced in less than 30 minutes with access hatch. Times my vary based on skill level, preparedness, and available parts and tools.
#fordf150 #obsford #fuelpump #diy
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⏰ Time Stamps:
0:00 Intro
0:27 The fuel pump access hatch
1:10 Replacement fuel pump particulars
1:36 Depressurize fuel system
2:42 Disconnect battery
2:52 Disconnect fuel pump harness
3:09 Disconnect fuel lines
4:58 Fuel pump locking ring
5:51 Remove pump
8:11 Install new fuel pump
9:47 Connect fuel lines
10:25 Connect pump harness
10:33 New pump and soldering harness plug
11:05 Wiring guide (what wires solder to those on the truck harness)
12:05 Connect harness to frame
12:34 LAST IMPORTANT STEP
12:44 Conclusion
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The project is my 1995 Ford F150 XL 2wd 8 foot bed.
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Авто/Мото
While you are in on that switch in the cab just cut one of the wires to it (ground is good) and put another on-off switch inline. Hide that switch somewhere and now ya have an anti-theft device. The engine will still crank but since no fuel can get to it - it WON'T start. Love your videos!
I’ve been wondering where to put one. Great idea!
Ah! This is a good idea!
Or go under the hood and cut the ignition wire and run it to a switch
About 10yrs ago i had the service station give me a eye watering price to replace my fuel pump and this was my answer to this same issue and it worked fine and took about 2hrs.
The truck is a 97 Ranger that i still own.
Great job.
Nice! I’m glad you are bought into the hatch idea. It definitely gets some hate. Lol
@TheMinuteMasters Yes there are many out there willing to remove the truck bed or drop the gas tank for a large fee. But I don't subscribe to there thinking and my little 10x10 patch in the bed worked flawlessly and was "CHEAP".
@@markcollins457 You are most definitely right. I’m all for the cheap effective fix!🤙
11:05 Thank you!! Just what I needed to mach the wiring colors.
You’re welcome!🤙
So we’re just gonna skip the fact you basically have a push button start… Key cylinder video next lol
Hahahaha! Typical worn out Ford key cylinder. Lol
I was wondering if anyone else caught that! Im actually laughing out loud!!!
Yea, my ‘97 F250 HD has the same “problem”
Running late…? Can’t find keys…? Oh well! LOL
Thanks
Nice tip, nice and easy with the hatch, i have to replace mine also. I will definitely be looking at back at your video, when i have a chance to replace it. Great job Steve
Thanks Nick!🤙 The hatch is the key to making this a smooth and easy process.
You’re welcome!
Love your stuff Stevie
Thanks Morgan!🤙
thanks for the video huge fan
Thanks Travis!🤙
Very nice. After my headers, I have installed gt40 y303 heads, with scorpion 1.72 rockers. Repaired my electronic 4x4, converted it to manual locking hubs. Next up, 4:10 gears front and back. I’m excited to see how my hauling potential has increased.
Thanks man!🤙 You’re truck should really move after those mods!
A couple things I do differently on these is tap the inertia switch with the screwdriver handle to trip it, which also shows It still works as designed. Making a hatch is a good idea, especially in an area where the bed bolts might be rusting a bit. In the shop we lift off the bed or drop the tank using a transmission jack, but not everyone has that luxury...if that's the right word. lol
Nice work.
Good point about the inertia switch.
Yes, a lift would be super nice.
Thanks Jimmy!🤙
Nice work
Good stuff as always man
Thanks man!🤙
Excellent Stevie excellent good❤
Thanks Francisco!🤙
very nice!
Can someone comment on how genius this is?!!!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it.
Man im subscribing stat as I bring my 94 f150 5.0 back from the dead
Love to hear it man!🤙
I've done this a few times...on these years ford trucks... dropping the tanks is not hard.. come down easily.. even full.. Use a floor jack... not cutting a hole in my truck beds lol.. I've seen a lot of people do this, and to reach their own... No hate.. And understand if the tank is clear full...heavy yes... but good time to clean it all up, maybe even replace em... they don't cost much.. i have a 1993 in replacing the clutch on... Rear tank leaks.. gonna just replace everything.. it's not hard. Time consuming maybe.. and if your daily driver... still... Literally 4 nuts you have to take off... Remove the straps.. Take the tank down.. personally... cutting into the floor above the gas tank... sparks... i don't wanna go BOOM! 💥😮.. im subscribing, just found your channel... Like i said, not hating, but just drop the tank and don't cut holes in the truck bed... just my opinion 😂... what brand pump did you use?
Honestly, I agree with you 100%. I don’t think this is the bed. I’ll keep long-term and when this truck gets real nice, I probably won’t have a hatch there. Jon, your truck is so nice I would never think of cutting any holes in the bed.
It’s a spectra brand I bought off Amazon .
@@TheMinuteMasters I use Delphi pumps.....they seem to lay a long time
Nice hat 😎
Master Plumber have to rep the blue collar crowd!👌
Great idea cutting a hatch , I am guessing you have used a pice from another bed to cover the hole u cut right?
Thanks! I actually bought a bed patch panel from raybuck.com.
Great tutorial. Wish I had cut the hatch in my bed before I built the camper in the back. I think I can figure out where it needs to go from taking a screenshot on your video. Hopefully that ends up being in the open centre ‘aisle’ of the camper set up. That way I can take the flooring up, cut the liner and then the floor. Probably have to use a jigsaw or recip saw on it with a short blade and a piece of wood to stop the blade hitting anything on the top of the tank, can’t imagine there’s much clearance there. A couple of inches you think? 👍🏻
Thanks man!🤙 I located my hatch by going under the bed and roughly figuring some measurements from the underside. I transferred those to the inside of the bed.
Yeah is a great mod for anyone with a lot of stuff in the bed they don’t want to removed for repairs.
I used an angle grinder and a piece of drywall. I think there’s 1.5 inches to the hoses and 2 to the tank. But it’s also worth going under the bed and measuring the clearance to be sure.
Thank you very much for your video! It helped me a lot, at this moment I have the same fuel pump that you are installing, do you know if it is the same one for the rear tank? Thank you
You’re welcome!
I’m not sure. You can always look up the rear fuel pump and then compare the part number to the front pump.
I didn’t cut a hole in my bed but I did replace the bed bolts with the torx head bolts and the frame clips so they can be removed 1,000 times easier. Irritating part for me is the tank filler neck and lifting the bed off. Great job love the channel. Don’t ever sell your truck cause then I won’t have a channel for advice lol I give you permission to start another channel with another vehicle perhaps. lol
That’s a good idea! Oem bed bolts are hard to find.
Hahahah! I plan to keep her even if I get a newer DD. 🤙
Fantastic video. Can you tell me how far the 1st and 2nd cuts are from the front of the bed and the side of the bed? I want to cut out a the proper square the first time.
I believe the first cut from the backside of the bed was around 10 inches but you’ll need to go under your truck and look for yourself because I found out that not all fuel tanks are strapped in the same same location.
As for a measurement from the side of the bed, I actually counted over the number of ridges and then made my cut .
@@TheMinuteMasters okay, thanks. I'll measure it myself and do it then. Also glad I saw your other video and now I know that I have to be careful not to cut the fuel lines underneath.
Where did you find the spare steel for your “hatch?” I’m gonna just cut holes as well
Ray bucks.com sells bed patch panels.
@@TheMinuteMasters awesome! Thank you!
Hello, you showed the wire setup on the front tank. But do you remember the wire hook up on the rear tank? The rear tank wires don't have a red wire, on my Dads 1994 Ford F150. We put the wires together like the front but the pump want come on, so I'm thinking might have something wired wrong lol. Front one works great. Thanks Mark
The previous owner replaced the pump in the rear tank. So I don’t know how that one is wired. A Haynes manual or Chiltons guide may have a wiring diagram.
what are your measurments from the top of the bed to the cut for the hatch? please and thanks.
I can’t remember exactly. I think it was 10 inches from the back of the bed and the. I counted the number of ribs in the bottom of the bed to find center.
On another note, I typically don’t give people measurements because I found out that the fuel tanks are not installed all the same. They can be a couple inches forward backward from truck to truck.
Do u have the video with the grinder doing the hatch
I don’t. What do you need to see or know?
Nice video. Question on fuel selector. Does the truck need to be off when selecting between front and rear? Can it damage the pumps when switching while driving?
Thanks man!🤙. Not sure if any damages would be caused. I’ve definitely switched them while driving.
@@TheMinuteMasters I have as well, only once, felt a misfire when selecting rear, kinda freaked me out. Now have a pump or pressure issue when trying to start from front tank and a fuel float problem in rear tank. Lovely!!
That's a bigger access hole than I expected, but it looks like you need all that space.
Originally, the whole was smaller. I waited it because it’s better to have more room for maneuvering the pump.
@@TheMinuteMasters what are the dimensions of that panel? I'm thinking about doing this after I was left stranded.
I have a solid red, solid black, solid orange and a green with a yellow strip on the original wire harness on the truck. What color wire on the the after market fuel pump harness connect to?
1995 ford f-150 XLT.
If you watch the wiring segment toward the end, I tell you what color connects to the other color. I don’t have that much for a visual on that though.
Nice keyless start.
Lololol Old Ford thing.
have to do this job here soon, seems like if my truck sits for a few days I have to prime the fuel pump 3-4 times before the truck will fire up.
Yup, that could be a fuel pump issue. I recommend changing the fuel filter as well.
Damn another one. Things arent what they used to be thats for sure. Ive had to replace a fuel pump twice in a month in my brothers accord. We even did the clutch after the first time thinking it had clutch chatter then that didnt work and that was the next thing we tried, ran perfect after that
I'm with ya. I replaced this pump 8 years ago. Granted that also includes almost 100,000 miles of driving.
@@TheMinuteMasters damn that's not bad though that video was a bit newer than that thanks for the long time dedication to the channel I've rebuilt my whole suspension watching your videos. Valuable Info
@@allighabell3138 You’re welcome man!🤙 I’ll keep the videos coming! I’m glad I could help you with your suspension work.
What's the title of the video making the hatch. Need to look it up to find out where to get the box repair panel to cover the hole.
I think it’s called how to make a fuel pump access hatch.
Ive got a 95 F150 4.9. Changed the fuel pump but didnt get any fuel to the rail. I wired it by your recommendation. Thought maybe the pump was defective because it was unwrapped in the box and after install, my fuel gage dropped to E even though its 3/4 full. Installed another new one and same results. Any ideas?
It might be worth looking at a wiring diagram just to make sure the wiring is the same from my truck to yours. I don’t see why there would be a difference, but you never know. Also are all the fuses and relays for the fuel system working?
@@TheMinuteMasters our wires are the same. The new pump came with a guide with several wiring ideas but none matched our color wires. I see other videos with a blue wire but I think that's for duel tanks
I've tested all relays and fuses and they are all good. I just don't get it.
.
@@driski90 Can you bench test the pump to make sure it's not faulty?
@@TheMinuteMasters I can.
You should add don't cut the rubber hose, seen a guy here do that.
I got half way cut the hole crack the cover but found out the a tool couldn't get it off. The reason why don't cut the hose is the pump flange is not to keep a clamp on but used as a hose stop from going in too far. A rubber hose will shrink in yr and the very fuel
pressure could pull out that clamp w/ out a flange to stop it. That why I didn't cut mine but took it to the dealer. But that cut under the van works great. It was my biggest fear stranded .
Right! Good point! I would never think to cut the hoses.
Yea, for that back years mechanic. I've got a 94 ford van. If you still got your herea few tips to make it feel like brand new. change your throttle postion and or cleans your crank shaft sensor. Last week wow big diffrent in throttle response & mpg. Tiny smooth throttle in normal driving like the new stang. 1-2 st no bang, the shift missing into 2 th even with heavy throttle surprised on that, recovered morning choke 1/ minute high ide then lower than before idle.
On the ford 351 lift the two intake hose, by taking off the intake box and let it go higher. Why? It the same as advanced the distributor. You gain better low end torque, adjust it heights custom torque. It perfect now as that 1-2 shift longer shift is non existence. Hard to guess when it's shift by Engine sound only.
For Southern back yr mech.
f350 too
I’m having a issue wer my truck won’t get fuel pressure and runs really rough won’t go over 20 mph only thing I haven’t touched is the pump could that be possible
It’s very possible it’s the pump. I assume you changed the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator?
Its just on time 😂
That’s what I like to hear!
Hahaha!! 😂 unbelievable
Ok so I have a 1990 f150 xlt lariat with the 4.9 i Changed the sending unit and pump all the wires and the gauge and then the ecm and the fuel gauge still dose not work
Does the pump work?
You havent made.memtion of the two different size tank pump for the front and the back are different depths
Good point. I left that out because I was only working on the front tank.
It takes me like 30 minutes to drop the tank I ain’t really complaining
Brother 😢 how many have you replaced now
Counting the original, 3rd pump.
I got a rear tank. I'm not cutting a hole in my bed. I've changed my fuel pump twice. I would do that if it was a beater.
If I had a mint condition truck, I probably would consider removing the bed each time. My bed is Roadkill “mint”.😂
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah. Lmao 😆
👇 Promo'SM
Light up the cigarette 🚬 while you do the video
Wanna buy my 96 F150?
Tempting! I don’t have the drive way space. Lol
I don't recommend this if you dont want to hear rattling all the time
Rattling from the hatch? I’ve never heard a rattle.
@@TheMinuteMasters you would have to use something so the hatch isn't just metal on metal or it will make noise when driving. I would suggest just go ahead and replace the whole fuel tank and fuel pump, those tanks build up a lot of gunk and even rust inside specially rear tank
@@wily3226 No noise from the hatch so far. Probably helps that it’s raptor lined. The fuel tank is a new plastic tank. So rust is no longer an issue for me.👌
If you're driving an OBS Ford and you don't hear a rattle SOMETHING IS WRONG
For the pickups, it’s probably not a problem. However, if cutting a hatch in a Bronco, where the hole is inside the cab, a gasket of some sort would probably be a good idea to keep noise, water and critters out.