Glad you fixed it. My 88 had a bad ground connector on my negative battery terminal. A short black wire going into the wiring harness. My battery had no hold down, so when the battery would slide a little, I would lose the ground to my PCM. One day I moved the battery with the key on and heard the PCM come to life and the fuel pump came on. Not the problem you had but sharing for others.
I have a 95 mine did the exact same thing, I diagnosed everything I could without throwing my wallet at it , seen this video last week ordered a new pcm it came in today installed it runs like a dream
i had the same problem and chased it for almost year. i found that out only by the paper clip trick. the ecm had be replaced before but it was a junkyard one. the caps leaked too bad because they were original to that ecm. i ended up buying one off ebay that wasnt refurb'ed and took a chance on recapping it myself. if anyone goes the route i took. id suggest taking a pic of cap orientation, they are also polarity to watch for and try to keep the voltage and uF the same or slightly higher. if you go lower theyll pop lol. also use electronic flux and solder because cold solders can cause the same problem. i put the pcm in a ziplock bagover it then put it back in place. and that spot moisture, water can easily to get into it. as well as water dripping on the MAP sensor,. i made a water deflector to put over it, she fired up coughed a small black cloud then immediately kicked the check engine and ran better than ever. good luck to people who hasnt figured it out yet
If it idles up and down when your in park, that's the idle control valve, it can be cleaned with carb cleaner. but it won't really effect it when your driving down the road.
Did you ever figure it out? or put a gauge on the schrader valve and check your fuel pressures? Definitely sounds like a lack of fuel with the intake popping
My 92 has both fuel pumps and leaky gas tanks replaced. Turned out to be tank swich burned. Fix that problem. Now new problem. Jurks and missing lack of power after it warms up. By accident I pulled wires off temp sensor on thermostat stat. Runs great though cheak engine light on. Truck been in family 17 years now 300 000 plus miles. It's about to die though, due to very severe rust.
If it's not the fuel pumps. replace the EGR valve it controls the choke. or it could be the distributor, specifically the modulator and the pick ups in the distributor.
I have a 88 ford. if you look under drivers door on chasy you will find another fuel pump above the fuel filter you will find another fuel pump, fuel pump in tank pumps it to the other fuel pump then the one on the line keeps the pressure up to the injectors.
Having a very similar issue. I’ve replaced the PCM already but this helped a lot actually. Every forum I have found with this issue is from so long ago and they never include what actually was the issue but i’m going to try and get a cheap pcm and test if it works. Thank you
Mine is stalling after running and it’s hot out side. Now I can’t get it started back up but I have to rev it up constantly and if I stop it’ll die and won’t start back up. I have replaced everything except for the tps but when I have it on the front tank it runs like crap just spits and stutters constantly but on the back it runs fine until I’ve driven it 30min-1hour
@@Wolflight68 My issue was my cheap fuel pumps. Mine went bad about a year ago, I replaced them with some ebay crap and they worked for a couple months and stopped again. I replaced them again with Delphi pumps and it works perfect now.
@@cartastrophe alright now idk what fuel pumps the previous owner had put in but I’ve been chasing down this issue for a year now I thought I had it fixed until it hit over 100% outside last month. So I’ve been stuck with no where to go
I think you may have a bad Ground wire from the body of the cab to the frame. Its very common on obs fords. Normally you wouldn't think a ground to the body and frame would cause a fuel delivery issue but for some reason with the way they wired those trucks it causes all kinds of fuel and spark issues that will not get fixed until you replace all the branded stainless steel grounds.
hey man i am trying to get on of these running its been sitting for years it wil crank over like she is fresh off the show room floor but i aint getting no fuel the relay and fuses are fine and it has fresh gas in there .i know its fuel related cause i shoot some break cleaner in there and it fires up off that but it will die any tips
@@mikeverything4098 honestly I'm not an expert by any means and am learning daily like the rest of us but it sounds like it's either you fuel pump is on its last leg and barely working or your ECU is going out and causing your fuel pump to short out after firing up. In my case my ECU was messing with the fuel pump bad but it was caused from having bad body ground wires. The body to frame ground wires are super important on OBS f150s. You need like one on each side of the body and one on the coresupport to frame aswell. That's the one that got me.
@@rickylee6129 yes... all fords seem to have this electrical issue with grounds. But honestly it just living in the rust belt that does it. I have a 99 super duty. Does the same.
For all 6l lovers... I just finished tunning mine with a stand alone ecu ( remplace the pcm) it's not that complicated to install, your truck will run 500% better, and will give you the benefit of doing whatever you want to it and run any type of fuel ( not diesel) and will make it easier to find any kind of bad sensor or even mechanical problem, if anyone interested.... post on this comment
I had a recurring issue similar to this and tried almost everything. Ford even replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator that had been recalled but never replaced on mine. I'm easily the 3rd owner. I kept beating this stall issue to death and finally at the end of the internet discovered somebody else with this problem. The issue was one or both Relays in your black box on the driver's side. One relay powers up the EEC and the other powers up the Fuel Injectors. I have Not had a Fuel Starvation Stall or failure to start since. $18 a piece at a Dealership...there are 3 of them...two only need be replaced to resolve this, unless something else is out of whack?
Thank you for tip. Mine keeps stalling when it’s hot out I have replaced every thing on the engine electric wise,map sensor,spark plugs and wires,distributor, air flow sensor,icm,temp sensor,and cleaned the tps. But it still dies randomly and only when it’s over 95% outside oddly enough any other suggestions? I’m losing my mind at this point 😅
I removed my air duct to change the distributor and my truck did the same thing. Put the air duct back on. These trucks will not run right with the air duct off.
Change your cold start sensor should be in the intake manifold. Tells the engine hey I'm cold I need some more fuel after the engine warms up it says hey I'm warm don't need that much fuel. Cold start sensor
I have a 1996 4.9 I had the head reworked Four burnt valves 2 crack valve seats and a blown head gasket on a truck I Bought. Machine shop found me another head and reworked it put no smog I deleted the EGR and all of the smog stuff truck ran good for about five days 60 miles and then dad it will start right back up run for a little bit at idol give it gas and it would die. I put the fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve only getting 34 psi I can clamp the fuel return line at the rubber fitting with a pair of pliers it does not spike they feel pressure at all running or not running I cannot get more than 34 psi I change the fuel filter in the process of changing the fuel pump in the tank I did not know there was a second fuel pump in line I will check it I hope it’s not the Computer. Any advice
@@allencrawford4680 if your only getting 34 psi, which isn’t bad really cause I think it’s sposed to be 30-40psi. But first thing I’d do is change your fuel pressure regulator on the back of the fuel rail. It’s two Allen head screws and a tube and it takes ten minutes to change and they are about $50. When they go bad, you will lose your pressure. The computer will not affect this at all
My 1993 f150 with inline 6 Is wont start Until you turn the key on and let the pump run until the pump cuts off, and then it will start And I have changed the. Fuel valve on the fuel rail the front fuel pump is 4year old an The rear fuel pump is two years old
@@herbieberieherb when I do find it out I will make a video and post it I have about 50 in this truck now so never getting rid of it but seriously thinking of doing a ls swap 😅
@@shawnmiller9678 I have a few checks ? 1) fuel filter replacement 2) 0 rings on the fuel lines 3) front n rear tank switch 4) roll over switch passenger kick cover red switch
@@ufcwescodmobile1199 I found the issue with mine it was vacume can leaking and brake booster both those vacume leaks caused it to run like that all my stuff is new with a rebuild and truck ran same then I found the coffee can looking canister was rotted along bottom in between mount and can
Truck was running great and boom rite back to way it was but I know for sure this time what issue is I putt a junk yard brake booster on and last week driving brakes got mushy and can hear air then it went to running like shit popping codes for all the new sensors cause there not getting correct vacume everytime I press brake it runs really high idle and starts check engine light so vacume leaks majorly affect the sensor operation and function of the engine
You need a I had the same thing on the same truck and put a fuel pump on it and it stopped doing that and it made eight codes go off so I don't have that many codes anymore fuel pump
The cost of keeping an old truck running is more expensive than buying a newer model sometimes. Taking care of little issues as they occur won't necessarily cost you less but maybe spread that cost over a longer period of time.
Unless one has no clue new trucks are much more expensive than keeping an old one running. $3200 for 1996 F 150 that needed a new thermostat for $17 is certainly cheaper than a few months payment on the new and incredibly expensive F150
prices of new trucks are insane for the price to buy a used 90s truck and rebuild the engine and new transmission is still cheaper then buying new by miles at least you know what your putting into the truck and learn how to work on ur vehicle along the way
Ok my truck will start as soon as it turns over and will drive fine for a few hundred feet and then it starts choking and will die. Hit the key nothing happens but if you cycle the key a few times it will start but run poorly again. Replaced the pump. Does the same thing. Any thoughts?
Could be burnt capacitors on your ecu, take the computer out of your truck and open it up if ya know how to solder you can replace the capacitors for like 5$ . I'd start there before replacing everything like I did 😂
My 92 is doing the same exact thing, replaced everything, including the PCM(MAP) getting ready to check fuel injectors, anyone try that? Any solutions out there?
I’m having the same issue, I’ve gone through absolutely everything, the only part that I have changed or replaced is the ecm! I’m going to replace the ecm and I’ll post if I make progress and or it’s a successful fix!
Angela Broadbent I have a 92 as well. Same issue and I just found fuel coming out of a line under the hood middle of the firewall. Trying to figure it out now.
@@johndowe7003 87-91 had low pressure pumps in the tank and a high pressure pump on the frame rail 92-96 have a high pressure pump in each tank instead
mine was the 2 fuel pumps on in the tank, one on the fuel line. don't get fuel pumps from orielly auto parts. I bought 4 there and they were all bad. ended up going to auto zone. but it could be the computer
try taking the line loose at the fuel filter and turn the switch on to see if it's pumping fuel. then take the line loose in front of the second fuel pump and see if you still have a good flow. if so then check the fuel regulator on the fuel rail.
Egr valve and the 2 solenoids that control the egr. My egr was stuck open, only pumping in exhaust fumes not allowing the proper f-a mixture. Haven't had A problem since. I shot gunned parts at it 1 at a time. Map sensor... Same...tps... Same... New distributor... Same... Fuel pressure sensor... Same... Then tested the solenoids on the driver side back off the motor attached to a bracket. Both off those were non functional, replaced those and the egr valve, voila... Problem solved.
Make sure plug wires are not crossed I've done it myself thinking of this n that when you should be paying attention to the work your doing I also replaced pick up coil inside the distributor what are the chances of a cracked plug just a thought mike
@@Cornerstandoutdoors I have a 93, let her sit for 2 years, now a crank no start, runs on carb cleaner in the intake just fine. front pump primes 2 seconds but sounds different than 2 years ago, cannot hear rear tank prime, thoughts? ECM Caps in yours was swollen?
did you ever find out the solution? First you should pull the codes, next check the Schroeder valve, they do go bad. Replace it with a red or a blue ring Schroeder rated for aircraft or Automotive fuel. Next check the fuel pressure control valve, can see how on you youtube. lastly change your fuel filter found just under the driver side of the vehicle let me know please
Well I said it wasn't communicating with it or cpm can't communicate. I have the dual tanks on mine I need to know how many volts or ohm should flow thru the inertia switch and dual tank switch to the tank , I've got 12v to the fuel relay it drops after that well I stopped after the fuel switch til I find out what it should be.
Glad you fixed it. My 88 had a bad ground connector on my negative battery terminal. A short black wire going into the wiring harness. My battery had no hold down, so when the battery would slide a little, I would lose the ground to my PCM. One day I moved the battery with the key on and heard the PCM come to life and the fuel pump came on. Not the problem you had but sharing for others.
I have a 95 mine did the exact same thing, I diagnosed everything I could without throwing my wallet at it , seen this video last week ordered a new pcm it came in today installed it runs like a dream
What is a pcm ?
My dad's truck did the same thing and his was the (ecm) electronic control module good luck w it
i had the same problem and chased it for almost year. i found that out only by the paper clip trick. the ecm had be replaced before but it was a junkyard one. the caps leaked too bad because they were original to that ecm. i ended up buying one off ebay that wasnt refurb'ed and took a chance on recapping it myself. if anyone goes the route i took. id suggest taking a pic of cap orientation, they are also polarity to watch for and try to keep the voltage and uF the same or slightly higher. if you go lower theyll pop lol. also use electronic flux and solder because cold solders can cause the same problem. i put the pcm in a ziplock bagover it then put it back in place. and that spot moisture, water can easily to get into it. as well as water dripping on the MAP sensor,. i made a water deflector to put over it, she fired up coughed a small black cloud then immediately kicked the check engine and ran better than ever. good luck to people who hasnt figured it out yet
If it idles up and down when your in park, that's the idle control valve, it can be cleaned with carb cleaner. but it won't really effect it when your driving down the road.
I had the same problem and replaced the PCM which did the trick.
Mine was a wire corroded on the fuel relay. Very hard to find. Worked one day not the next.
I would take a bet it is your main ECM-1 OB1 computer...
Fuel tank selector replace it and check relays
pick-up coil inside the distributor Fords have a bad problem with this my F-150 done the same thing.
Did you ever figure it out? or put a gauge on the schrader valve and check your fuel pressures? Definitely sounds like a lack of fuel with the intake popping
My 92 has both fuel pumps and leaky gas tanks replaced. Turned out to be tank swich burned. Fix that problem. Now new problem. Jurks and missing lack of power after it warms up. By accident I pulled wires off temp sensor on thermostat stat. Runs great though cheak engine light on. Truck been in family 17 years now 300 000 plus miles. It's about to die though, due to very severe rust.
What was the issue my bronco is doing the same thing
Always check the fuel breaker switch first on the passenger side kick panel!!.. .
I had some kind of minor accident once. That part kicked. My buddy showed up to help and he checked that. And bam it started.
Yes sir I'm going through the same problem but I don't have time to fix it right now so I just went down and got a different vehicle
If it's not the fuel pumps. replace the EGR valve it controls the choke. or it could be the distributor, specifically the modulator and the pick ups in the distributor.
Mine is doing the same thing. Lmk what you find to fix it.
Fuel filter ?
You mean the engine is cranking, and it would not turn over. And the term "fall on its face" is a term used when talking about the tune
I have a 88 ford. if you look under drivers door on chasy you will find another fuel pump above the fuel filter you will find another fuel pump, fuel pump in tank pumps it to the other fuel pump then the one on the line keeps the pressure up to the injectors.
try that one
89 and newer has only in tank pumps.
@@randallcarney1216 are you sure?
I have a 87 and a 88 and they both have 3, one in both tanks, one in the line, also they have another filter in the gas tank switch.
@@altonlynch5464 he said 89 and up dude 88 87 is lower bud
Having a very similar issue. I’ve replaced the PCM already but this helped a lot actually. Every forum I have found with this issue is from so long ago and they never include what actually was the issue but i’m going to try and get a cheap pcm and test if it works. Thank you
Mine is stalling after running and it’s hot out side. Now I can’t get it started back up but I have to rev it up constantly and if I stop it’ll die and won’t start back up. I have replaced everything except for the tps but when I have it on the front tank it runs like crap just spits and stutters constantly but on the back it runs fine until I’ve driven it 30min-1hour
@@Wolflight68 My issue was my cheap fuel pumps. Mine went bad about a year ago, I replaced them with some ebay crap and they worked for a couple months and stopped again. I replaced them again with Delphi pumps and it works perfect now.
@@cartastrophe alright now idk what fuel pumps the previous owner had put in but I’ve been chasing down this issue for a year now I thought I had it fixed until it hit over 100% outside last month. So I’ve been stuck with no where to go
I think you may have a bad Ground wire from the body of the cab to the frame. Its very common on obs fords. Normally you wouldn't think a ground to the body and frame would cause a fuel delivery issue but for some reason with the way they wired those trucks it causes all kinds of fuel and spark issues that will not get fixed until you replace all the branded stainless steel grounds.
hey man i am trying to get on of these running its been sitting for years it wil crank over like she is fresh off the show room floor but i aint getting no fuel the relay and fuses are fine and it has fresh gas in there .i know its fuel related cause i shoot some break cleaner in there and it fires up off that but it will die any tips
@@mikeverything4098 honestly I'm not an expert by any means and am learning daily like the rest of us but it sounds like it's either you fuel pump is on its last leg and barely working or your ECU is going out and causing your fuel pump to short out after firing up.
In my case my ECU was messing with the fuel pump bad but it was caused from having bad body ground wires. The body to frame ground wires are super important on OBS f150s. You need like one on each side of the body and one on the coresupport to frame aswell. That's the one that got me.
@@mikeverything4098 but there are videos on here of people explaining how that ECU can go bad and mess with the fuelpump and other things aswell.
@@pathlawncare744 Does this apply to a 94 F-250 as well?
@@rickylee6129 yes... all fords seem to have this electrical issue with grounds. But honestly it just living in the rust belt that does it. I have a 99 super duty. Does the same.
Yes sir my bf has a 1991 Ford doing these exact issues wanted to know if you figured it out
For all 6l lovers... I just finished tunning mine with a stand alone ecu ( remplace the pcm) it's not that complicated to install, your truck will run 500% better, and will give you the benefit of doing whatever you want to it and run any type of fuel ( not diesel) and will make it easier to find any kind of bad sensor or even mechanical problem, if anyone interested.... post on this comment
im interested, love the truck but fuel management is a nightmare
@@rlp7780 yes I agree it was definitely a nightmare at the beginning but at the end it's not that hard when you finally understand it
Hello can you send me some information about how to do this? My truck I don't no what to think about it sometimes
@@kevine8736 email me davisito2608@gmail.com
Hey my name is John and I need your help when I press on the gas when I’m in drive is hesitate and don’t want to go
It may be the engine control module coputer
Hook your hoses back up and try it your mass not working unless hooked up
Map Sensor..... On the Firewall, 2 Bolts, and unplug!!!
Check the icm on the fender and replace it
Did you ever figure it out I have a 92 with same problem if so please let me know I would appreciate it
I had a recurring issue similar to this and tried almost everything. Ford even replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator that had been recalled but never replaced on mine. I'm easily the 3rd owner.
I kept beating this stall issue to death and finally at the end of the internet discovered somebody else with this problem.
The issue was one or both Relays in your black box on the driver's side. One relay powers up the EEC and the other powers up the Fuel Injectors.
I have Not had a Fuel Starvation Stall or failure to start since. $18 a piece at a Dealership...there are 3 of them...two only need be replaced to resolve this, unless something else is out of whack?
Thank you for tip. Mine keeps stalling when it’s hot out I have replaced every thing on the engine electric wise,map sensor,spark plugs and wires,distributor, air flow sensor,icm,temp sensor,and cleaned the tps. But it still dies randomly and only when it’s over 95% outside oddly enough any other suggestions? I’m losing my mind at this point 😅
Fired off that parts cannon
But I do love the old truck can I will fix it
Throttle body positioning sensor
Check for exhaust blockage
Pcm for sure?
I removed my air duct to change the distributor and my truck did the same thing. Put the air duct back on. These trucks will not run right with the air duct off.
Change your cold start sensor should be in the intake manifold. Tells the engine hey I'm cold I need some more fuel after the engine warms up it says hey I'm warm don't need that much fuel. Cold start sensor
I’m having sort of the same issue my truck starts and idles pouring but will start but soon as I stomp on it, it kills do you think
it’s the pcm??
I think it's your EGR. the EGR controlls the choke.
@@altonlynch5464 yup a wad of foil paper in the egr tube will help it or a block off plate will do the trick
I have a 1996 4.9 I had the head reworked Four burnt valves 2 crack valve seats and a blown head gasket on a truck I Bought. Machine shop found me another head and reworked it put no smog I deleted the EGR and all of the smog stuff truck ran good for about five days 60 miles and then dad it will start right back up run for a little bit at idol give it gas and it would die. I put the fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve only getting 34 psi I can clamp the fuel return line at the rubber fitting with a pair of pliers it does not spike they feel pressure at all running or not running I cannot get more than 34 psi I change the fuel filter in the process of changing the fuel pump in the tank I did not know there was a second fuel pump in line I will check it I hope it’s not the Computer. Any advice
Mine too,
@@allencrawford4680 if your only getting 34 psi, which isn’t bad really cause I think it’s sposed to be 30-40psi. But first thing I’d do is change your fuel pressure regulator on the back of the fuel rail. It’s two Allen head screws and a tube and it takes ten minutes to change and they are about $50. When they go bad, you will lose your pressure. The computer will not affect this at all
Fuel filter
MAP sensor!
My 1993 f150 with inline 6 Is wont start Until you turn the key on and let the pump run until the pump cuts off, and then it will start And I have changed the. Fuel valve on the fuel rail the front fuel pump is 4year old an The rear fuel pump is two years old
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM
Did you replace the fuel filter?
Also check the transfer switch on the dash. I had on go out on me.
Have you found out issue im having same deal i done rebuilt whole truck and no fix
me too!!
@@herbieberieherb when I do find it out I will make a video and post it I have about 50 in this truck now so never getting rid of it but seriously thinking of doing a ls swap 😅
@@shawnmiller9678 I have a few checks ?
1) fuel filter replacement
2) 0 rings on the fuel lines
3) front n rear tank switch
4) roll over switch passenger kick cover red switch
@@ufcwescodmobile1199 I found the issue with mine it was vacume can leaking and brake booster both those vacume leaks caused it to run like that all my stuff is new with a rebuild and truck ran same then I found the coffee can looking canister was rotted along bottom in between mount and can
Truck was running great and boom rite back to way it was but I know for sure this time what issue is I putt a junk yard brake booster on and last week driving brakes got mushy and can hear air then it went to running like shit popping codes for all the new sensors cause there not getting correct vacume everytime I press brake it runs really high idle and starts check engine light so vacume leaks majorly affect the sensor operation and function of the engine
Mine does this exact thing
Icv?
You need a I had the same thing on the same truck and put a fuel pump on it and it stopped doing that and it made eight codes go off so I don't have that many codes anymore fuel pump
The cost of keeping an old truck running is more expensive than buying a newer model sometimes. Taking care of little issues as they occur won't necessarily cost you less but maybe spread that cost over a longer period of time.
Unless one has no clue new trucks are much more expensive than keeping an old one running. $3200 for 1996 F 150 that needed a new thermostat for $17 is certainly cheaper than a few months payment on the new and incredibly expensive F150
The new trucks are built to break you spend $60,000 on a new truck and then it breaks two months later
prices of new trucks are insane for the price to buy a used 90s truck and rebuild the engine and new transmission is still cheaper then buying new by miles at least you know what your putting into the truck and learn how to work on ur vehicle along the way
And far more reliable
I don’t know how many new trucks can go 250,xxx and keep going with parts and labor replacement that cheap and easy.
Ok my truck will start as soon as it turns over and will drive fine for a few hundred feet and then it starts choking and will die. Hit the key nothing happens but if you cycle the key a few times it will start but run poorly again. Replaced the pump. Does the same thing. Any thoughts?
Could be burnt capacitors on your ecu, take the computer out of your truck and open it up if ya know how to solder you can replace the capacitors for like 5$ . I'd start there before replacing everything like I did 😂
john dowe ended up being a coolant temp sensor.
@@Fassfords hmm I swapped that out as well , I even did the air charge temp sensor as well
Same here
My 92 is doing the same exact thing, replaced everything, including the PCM(MAP) getting ready to check fuel injectors, anyone try that? Any solutions out there?
I’m having the same issue, I’ve gone through absolutely everything, the only part that I have changed or replaced is the ecm! I’m going to replace the ecm and I’ll post if I make progress and or it’s a successful fix!
I would deff just try and put some fuel additive injector cleaners and run it for a while before I started messing with the injectors themselves
Angela Broadbent I have a 92 as well. Same issue and I just found fuel coming out of a line under the hood middle of the firewall. Trying to figure it out now.
Im having the same issue. Did you ever fix it?
Same here man
3-29-21, first time I have heard of two fuel pumps, can this be true?
I have a1994 f150 and it does indeed, have two pumps
@@zacharysmith7700 i see it's true
@@rexsmith6495 two gas tanks, you can switch while driving
It's a low pressure and high pressure pump I think or it's a high pressure and a lift pump in the tank.
@@johndowe7003 87-91 had low pressure pumps in the tank and a high pressure pump on the frame rail 92-96 have a high pressure pump in each tank instead
I got the same thing goin on with my 91 ford and can’t figure it out. Did u figure it out.
same here
He said PCM or computer
mine was the 2 fuel pumps on in the tank, one on the fuel line. don't get fuel pumps from orielly auto parts. I bought 4 there and they were all bad. ended up going to auto zone. but it could be the computer
try taking the line loose at the fuel filter and turn the switch on to see if it's pumping fuel. then take the line loose in front of the second fuel pump and see if you still have a good flow. if so then check the fuel regulator on the fuel rail.
Following
Egr valve and the 2 solenoids that control the egr. My egr was stuck open, only pumping in exhaust fumes not allowing the proper f-a mixture. Haven't had A problem since. I shot gunned parts at it 1 at a time. Map sensor... Same...tps... Same... New distributor... Same... Fuel pressure sensor... Same... Then tested the solenoids on the driver side back off the motor attached to a bracket. Both off those were non functional, replaced those and the egr valve, voila... Problem solved.
any one know the diagnostic port on 1995 f 150 please help
It's the PCM(Powertrain Control Module). It's a computer. The maker of this video posted it in earlier comments
Cranking an engine means turning a starter motor.
Make sure plug wires are not crossed I've done it myself thinking of this n that when you should be paying attention to the work your doing I also replaced pick up coil inside the distributor what are the chances of a cracked plug just a thought mike
Fuel pressure regulator
i have the EXACT same problem....I cannot figure it out at all.
It ended up being PCM
@@Cornerstandoutdoors I'm having the same problem with my truck you say it ended up being the PCM did you have to replace the computer?
@@Cornerstandoutdoors I have a 93, let her sit for 2 years, now a crank no start, runs on carb cleaner in the intake just fine. front pump primes 2 seconds but sounds different than 2 years ago, cannot hear rear tank prime, thoughts? ECM Caps in yours was swollen?
did you ever find out the solution? First you should pull the codes, next check the Schroeder valve, they do go bad. Replace it with a red or a blue ring Schroeder rated for aircraft or Automotive fuel. Next check the fuel pressure control valve, can see how on you youtube.
lastly change your fuel filter found just under the driver side of the vehicle
let me know please
Just so y'all know it was PCM
What is the pcm?
Well I said it wasn't communicating with it or cpm can't communicate. I have the dual tanks on mine I need to know how many volts or ohm should flow thru the inertia switch and dual tank switch to the tank , I've got 12v to the fuel relay it drops after that well I stopped after the fuel switch til I find out what it should be.
Relay? PCM relay?
I just bought a 94 F-150 and been chasing this same issue. Thanks for the video.
@@guardian452x change the computer and be done with it
Pcm problem
my shit does the same thing !!
My truck is doing the same thing right now can't figure it out
Replace the MAP sensor bro
Timing chain
4.9 doesn't have a chain it's a gear
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂just pour some premium gas ⛽️ all over the Rust Bucket 🪣 😂😂😂and light it up😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂