I can't imagine a more perfect instructional video. Minimum talking then you showed us what might be wrong, where the parts are located and how to remove, replace or clean the parts. Great work. UPdate - I see on another video where they had the same symptoms and other garages couldn't fix the problem. The mechanic hooked up his oscilloscope and checked waveforms et al and narrowed the problem down to the MAP sensor, too. Now I'm not sure if it was the original MAP sensor or an aftermarket one but when the mechanic pulled it out water poured into his hand. Sure enough, the back cover could pop right off and there didn't appear to be any gasket. The mechanic speculated that the water may have gotten into the MAP sensor if they power washed the engine compartment or maybe it just ran down the windshield - under the hood - and on top of the MAP sensor. Interesting but something to keep in mind if anybody's F150 starts bucking and snorting.
That rubber seal at back of firewall needs to be in good shape as well or water can run off the cowl and down the back of the firewall causing issues. Thx for this vid
I'm sitting in my 97 F150 tapping the gas constantly then see you start doing the same and hallelujah I may have finally found a video describing my problem.
I love how you whip through a lot of great content in a minimum amount of time! Lots of RUclips guys can’t seem to figure out how to do that. Thank you!
Couldn't get my 88 f250 to run, and after throwing sever parts at it, to no avail, I saw this video, and gave the map sensor a shot. As soon as we plugged the new one in, the truck came back to life! Thanks a ton man
A bad MAP sensor can cause rich mixtures. If your plugs are fouled, replace the MAP sensor. Run the engine at fast idle to let the engine clear out the rich mixture.
@@hankbridges5055 TRUE that, Mr. Hank. Have a half-dozen new sparkers on hand if you've put off a tune up or fatally fouled the tips on your plugs. And yeppers - no harm in letting the system get to operating temps for a while to see if the lean mixture will effectively clean the older plugs.
MAF sensor's are used in all states , I have one on a 01 Ford Taurus SEL, I got in New Mexico , and got another 04 Taurus SEL 3.0L in Tennessee , I know this video was done while back but with the OBD2 implemented it's a better sensor and does more functions than a MAP sensor could handle.
I never comment on videos, but I've been going crazy for +1 year trying to fix my 1988 4.9. Replaced fuel parts, coil and wires, temp sensor.... FINALLY the MAP sensor! Thanks buddy!!!
Brian, Just a note to thank you for your no nonsense advice and straight shooting expertise. My old F150 has been ressurrected and I take 10% credit. 90 goes to you. Yes, I subscribed.
Allen Bryant - June 2020 My 1990 F150 would not stay running unless I kept pumping the throttle, Very similar to your video. I then changed the MAP sensor as you did and my problem is solved.. Thanks so much for making this video.
I don’t normally comment but I felt the need to thank you. I’ve had idle problems in 88 f-150 4.9l for 2 years and I just put the MAP sensor in and it seems to have fixed the problem thanks a million.
I have 94 f150 when I take off in od its very sluggish tell I put in 2ed gear auto transmission it just started doing that ,what is cause of it ?? I wach all of your videos haven't found my problem yet looking forward to more of your videos thank u bro .
@@kentrymason5566 I have 93 5.0 mine wants to die when I stop at stop lights or sometimes stop signs and today it's actually dying and acting like the battery is dead think it's solenoid or stater going to change both changed brake booster for idle problem was told that had to do with vacuum but didn't seem to help will try map sensor
@@2004Bishop didn't try that ended up just yesterday plugging off my charcoal box at the engine and seemed to run better on my way to work this morning. Didn't want to die but now that I say this it will die on my way home. Also adjusted idle to about 1000 rpm.
The only good thing I got out of this video, and was the music at the end of the video. because I'm a huge Rainbow fan. I have a 1989 Ford F250 4x4 with 5.8L 351W. and I've already done everything that was described in this video plus. I cleaned the idle air control valve and installed it with a new gasket. replaced the MAP sensor, replaced the EGR valve, replaced the TPS which requires the removal of the throttle body. and cleaned the throttle body, allthough there was a hell of lot of soot/carbon in the plenom. I cleaned the plenom as good as I could. but it was pretty much impossible to get it all out of there. and replaced the O2 sensor, and went through with the multi tester and made sure everything was within spec.. and now I'm certain that it runs worse than it did before. it idles way high and then way down low and constantly stalls. it gets horrible fuel mileage it's almost impossible to drive it the way it is? I have decided that I'm done working on the piece of shit. and I have decided that I'm done with Ford and their garbage. I'm going to look for something else to drive. and then I'm going to abandon the piece shit on the side of the road. enough is enough!!!!!!
Also, a dirty/malfunctioning EGR valve will cause a rough idle. My f150 is a 1995 model, and I’m quite sure it has a mass airflow sensor, right after the air filter and before the throttle body. Don’t think it’s a California model either. Great video , love Dio
Great video. Bought a 1989 f150 for $300 bucks. Real rough idle. Replaced the sensor and voila. Idle is smooth and engine is strong. My check engine light also turned off.
@@BrianEaly dude I have a question I have a '91 F-150 5.0 liter every little bit randomly either it will randomly burn up the computer the ignition control module or rarely the coil do you have any ideas or does anybody have any ideas where I can look it sounds like a wire or ground or something but I have checked this thing thoroughly or a slice when they made the harness is worn out I just don't know where to go I'm looking at all the wires 15 minutes my mind is burn up no drugs included lmao jk seriously this is my only vehicle and I've been down for two weeks and my budget is hurting bad very bad so any help anybody can give me crazy appreciated I don't even care if it's absolutely wrong thankyou guys
You the Man!!! Got a 94 f150 5.8L V8 Windsor. Kept dieing and stalling out. Replaced the fuel filter, same problem. Cleaned the IAC and map sensor like you said, no problems perfect idle at 900 to 1k rpm in park!!! Saved me $350 bucks. That what the local mech would have charged for labor
It's cold here, often. Mine would cold start to around 2200 rpm. I did not like! Rough on cold cylinders, etc. I made a restriction plate from alum flashing and too the iac port to about half sized hole. Sealant and install. Perfect. Seems just how I Like it. Doesn't have that high rev cold start. Great video you did. Thanks
Bless you! I have an '89 and have had this issue since I bought it. I have to feed it gas to keep it going/rough idle/sluggish acceleration. I'm excited to try this fix, it is otherwise a great little truck and I love driving it. Thanks!
Five. 891 Ford bronco what the computer come inside from a five. Oh to a five. Eight motor on a 91 Ford bronco four-wheel-drive I’d like to know the answer
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It'll check live, record, emissions test, it'll turn off the check engine light, it'll turn off the oil maintenance light, it checks transmission codes, ABS, SRS, and MORE!
your idler pulley squeaking at the end is a reminder of how i need to warranty mine that i just bought 6 months ago and squeaked ever since. why havent i returned it to autozone yet? idk. but its coming off tomorrow. thanks bud
very good vid. oem vacuum lines are prone to crack and leak causing similar problems idling and running.. good idea to check all vac lines and connectors too.
so I just found out I might have a California truck. I'm currently in Alabama, military so not to be surprised but still I was looking for a map sensor i don't have.thank you for quick content, and information may have saved me some time
Seems to have fixed my rusty old 1995 f250 5.8. Check engine light is gone and driving a little better, hopefully it’ll continue with no issues! Thanks
Liked your video, keep featuring the animals. I've been messing with one of these that nearly dies at idle when you first touch the gas. It's straight drive so it's very easy to choke off. Anyways, I found out today that the gasket between the throttle body and the rest of the intake was in terrible shape. If the truck has had a lot of air intake alterations and replaced sensors etc. this is worth a look. My truck is nearing 290,000 and the gasket was thin with bubbles that cracked when I touched them. Pieces could easily go in the motor, and it looks like air was definitely tunneling through the gasket. People with trucks under 100k had same problem on here. Replacement is a couple dollars at O'Really's, cheers.
Happened to me too! The bolts were loose and valve was bubbles up just like yours. Did you have a check engine light? Mine is 327. It’s still on but I haven’t driven 100 miles.
brother thank you very much I have been looking for the problem of my f 350 ford for more than a year and your video helped me to find the problem Thank you and from Puerto Rico we send you a big hug brother
Thank you! I came back here to comment and say that in the 1 minute it took me to replace this it freaking worked. only recommendation, drive the truck before you assume it didn't fix it. lol
Love the chickens Mr. E. I'm so glad you are going over this I have every system of a bad map sensor plus when looked at it the silicone inside and where the pins meet silicone all of that had cracks around it with white looking corrosion under the pins where it meet. With that and this video I'm more and more convinced thats it.
I want to thank you for your help. Im not good with trucks and your video was simple and easy to understand i was amazed that i even didnt have a problem following and for that im grateful. You made proud to be American. Thanks again ,those chickens look good by the way . Lol!!!God bless us all.
What difference was with your video was california or other engines....did go in canada supplier (canadian tire)shoved on screen california type by watched out your your video yet my actual engine did not have some thing resembles that also they discontinuoud to cary...if I had purchased would have returned...mine is I have being assured outside of California type(Windsor engine)...Thank you for looks like small yet for me yet big differences bit of info...👏👏👏🙏👍
Ty. For your video sure did help me!, replace the part ($48. Auto zone) today and it's running better than it was before or in awhile, thanks again! O'! 1990 e-150 4.9_ s6.
I'm not sure about all motors but I know 95 and newer 5.0 302s all have maf sensors. And if you want to put a cam in your 302 it needs a maf not map sensor my 1990 runs like shit with a cam ran great stock so I'm updating to the maf sensor and hopefully that's the end of my troubles and still get more power
Great video, nice work. My two cents is to check every connector on the engine sensors very, very carefully, they're famous for losing their seal over time. Then air and moisture and a few thousand heat cycles corrode the conductors and failure or even worse random hard AF to troubleshoot issues can happen, even though the sensor might be just fine, if the signal to the ECU is bad, so is idle/acceleration. Good luck my 4.9 I-6 peeps!
Thanks for the write up, its also worth mentioning if your sensors are receiving power and ground. You can also look up the part number for any of your sensors or use alldata to figure out the operating voltage of the different sensors and testing during startup/idle.
@@izftpvp822 Correct. The Digital Multimeter is the magical eyeball that sees the voltage or dead short your eye can't. RUclips also has video on how to look at your meter, how to use it, and what it can show you. These engines are pretty simple, but the first/ second generation EFI electrical bits can create trouble. It's a simple circuit, you can fix it.
I have been trying to figure this out for over a year! I no idea the MAP sensor was clear over on the fire wall! Thank you...I was just about to set this truck on fire-
I'm curious if your truck had check engine light flashing? I'm having hell with a 90 f150 4.9 that has lost power rough idle low fuel pressure spits and sputters if you accelerate. However if you pump the pedal while driving it accelerates better. I had changed plugs (that had welded themselves in and hadn't been changed in nearly a decade) rotor cap distributor cap plug wires and it was running better than I've ever seen it with the slightest hiccup at idle about every 2 mins. Not even a miss just a hiccup. I had planned on cleaning the fuel injection system and was looking for a high pressure set up when my friend that owns it decided to obsess over the hiccup after stating he'd never seen it run that good since he owned it. He sent it to a shop. A week later and 600.00 he showed up with it running worse than before I changed the plugs wires rotor etc. Fuel pressure was 0 ke eo for several tries. After 10 tomes it hit 30 psi. Running showed 0 psi. I pulled the filter which was a couple months old dumped it out. Shot air thru it and got 30 psi running. Pulled the fuel pressure regulator hose off and no increase in pressure. Changed it to one with 52 psi and getting 38 psi running 51 when turned off. I feel like the fuel pump is weak. The rear tank hasn't worked in decades. I pulled codes again and got two in memory non in active codes. One was secondary fuel circuit fault the other was egr? Code 32 I think. I checked the timing the other night and it was crazy. The mark is near impossible to see due to belts alternator,tranny lines to radiator vacuum noses and the position of the timing marks over the balancer but the line was not constantly visible. There were 30 second lapses and longer. When I raised the rpms a bit it was steadier and looked to be just past the Big V notch showing 10 degrees before top dead center. I have no idea what the idiots did at the shop but they delivered it without saying anything. Like sorry we charged you 600 and made your truck run like shit. But you should have seen it coming because we charged your wife 350. to add a can of freon to her Cadillac that got cold for 20 mins then got hot again. Thank you fir being such wonderful suckers I mean customers
No Sh1t! Just like the others said “straight to the point” I have the same motor in my 1995 F250, replaced and cleaned what you suggested. Voila she is working perfectly again! If had a neighbor offer to buy the truck since he seen me getting it running 😂
Hey i was wondering if u could help with the problem I have. It's somewhat similar, I have a 1992 ford 5.0 and it has rough/unstable idle, hesitation, pings in acceleration, and stutters at cruising speeds. I have all new ignition parts and a few other things
harley kane make sure you check out your Cat it could have a blockage, I had the same symptoms on my F250 tried different things it gave me fits ,finally checked out the Cat it was nearly stopped up
Cone intakes on a speed density (map sensor) truck? How's that work out? I thought about an intake upgrade but was advised against it due to the speed density system not actually knowing how much air is going in, rather only knowing the manifold pressure.
I cleaned my idle air control valve but it is too far gone. Disconnecting its wire allowed me to idle right but it won't do the warm up rpms is only difference I can notice.
Great info thanks 👍. Ive got an 89 4.9 F150 hadn’t checked anything yet it starts and idles good but shuts off when going into reverse but not drive; why does it not like reverse?
Hey brother, what size pipe did you use for the air intakes? I've been thinking about doing this on mine, just haven't got around to it. Lol. It looks like 2 1/2 or 3 Inch pipe. Is it just exhaust pipe?
Location, location, location.. the MAP sensor is mounted (with a wiring harness AND a pencil-thick vacuum line) on the firewall, in front of the glove-box area of the square-body Ford trucks. The MAF is, on every vehicle that employs the tech, mounted (with a wiring harness only [no vacuum line]) into the air-intake ducting. It will be between the air filter and the throttle body if it's on your vehicle
I have a 95 F150..straight 6..it has 260,000 miles on it ..and runs good..been stalling lately..so I may buy that part and clean the other one..just changed the fuel filter today
Thanks! now my truck idles and runs fine, not missing anymore. (all new tanks, fuel pumps, Throttle position sensor, plugs wires dist cap, fuel filters) got a map sensor for it to see if it helps.. problem now is... doesn't seem to get fuel when starting, takes a while to crank over. fuel pump does run when key is on acc.....thoughts?
My 94 f150 takes long to start as well. I replace the fuel pressure regulator (old one had missing orings. 20 psi) Psi is 30 (on the low end with key on but not starting) and Still long start (was going to replace map sensor to see if that was the problem). TPSensor problem?!? I heard not to pump gas padel when cranking as sensor is setting default position. Let me know if you find a fix....
Great help. 1990 f150 5.0 I didnt have to buy a thing and spent less than an hour including watching and commenting! You should make a video on how to make good videos. Thanks
My 92 f150 has a rough idol , if i give it some gas after about 2ish minutes it will get to a point its holding itself up without stalling but once i try to switch gears it stalls.. No amount of stepping on the gas will keep it alive in gear. It doesnt get even rev up in gear, But it will in park. Once it stalls you have to wait hours to try again. Right after it stalls, it will crank and crank. After 3+ hours it catches almost instantly rinse and repeat. Can not figure it out. Before you say it , it has a new transmission replaced 8k miles ago. Truck itself has 261k.
Brian..i got a 95 f-150 that has a sticker under the hood that reads ..timing on this motor which is a 4.9 inline 6 cannot be adjusted..which mines this engine is excempt as far as smog is concerned...had a star smog guy tell me that plus i read the sticker to...didnt know if you knew that but thought i would pass it along to you an others that may be viewing...
I have a 92 ford f150 that is doing the same thing as yours in this video and your other video, with the paper clip. My truck now doesn't want to start, it'll crank all day but won't start! I haven't tried the stuff in your other video yet cause I just seen it but any ideas on what could be the problem? And does the paper clip method still work even if I can't get the truck to start as since you had to hold the gas to keep it running
Where's the map sensor in a earlier model? If there is one....I just bought an 86 and I have to keep on the gas for it to stay running. I just did the carb cleaner on the throttle body. But I think what you showed might work better for me. I know nothing mechanically. And just research everything myself. My ford is a manual and has the in line fuel filter with the big round air filter with the metal case that sits on the throttle body.
Katie - I know it sucks... but to be real there are so many options of possible things that could be wrong... could be: mass air flow sensor, idle air control valve, egr valve, map sensor, fuel pump, o2 sensor, fuel filter, vacuum leak... there are so many things with the same exact symptoms. These models don't have a modern scan port, but you can scan them with a hack method. I did a video of how to do it... couple minutes I will try to find the link. Will send it your way --> best of luck
Just found this video,, great information, but in 2020 that part is $89 plus on that site.. oh well, I'll try elsewhere.. new subscriber anyways, liked your no BS right to the point.. many blessings.
Im curious if your check engine light was coming on or staying on. Ive got one that was running like new. Had the slightest miss about 1 min apart. Not really a miss. Old man obsessed and sent it to a shop. I heard him pull up spitying sputtering running worse than it was before i removed the spark plugs that had actually welded themselves in the cylinder head changed wires rotor cap dist cap fuel filter that was on backwards and looked like it was put on in 1990. No check engine light has come on snd this thing will barely run. Im leaning toward fuel pressure. I would love to know what the shop did to it. Id never seen it run as good as it was when he sent it to the shop. I find it hard to believe it was an accident. The worst me hanic on the planet had to notice it ran like new when they got it and it will barely idle and drops to no power with foot on the floor a week after they had it in their shop.
I can't imagine a more perfect instructional video. Minimum talking then you showed us what might be wrong, where the parts are located and how to remove, replace or clean the parts. Great work. UPdate - I see on another video where they had the same symptoms and other garages couldn't fix the problem. The mechanic hooked up his oscilloscope and checked waveforms et al and narrowed the problem down to the MAP sensor, too. Now I'm not sure if it was the original MAP sensor or an aftermarket one but when the mechanic pulled it out water poured into his hand. Sure enough, the back cover could pop right off and there didn't appear to be any gasket. The mechanic speculated that the water may have gotten into the MAP sensor if they power washed the engine compartment or maybe it just ran down the windshield - under the hood - and on top of the MAP sensor. Interesting but something to keep in mind if anybody's F150 starts bucking and snorting.
Thank you! I appreciate it. Take care.
That rubber seal at back of firewall needs to be in good shape as well or water can run off the cowl and down the back of the firewall causing issues. Thx for this vid
I'm sitting in my 97 F150 tapping the gas constantly then see you start doing the same and hallelujah I may have finally found a video describing my problem.
I love how you whip through a lot of great content in a minimum amount of time! Lots of RUclips guys can’t seem to figure out how to do that. Thank you!
Couldn't get my 88 f250 to run, and after throwing sever parts at it, to no avail, I saw this video, and gave the map sensor a shot. As soon as we plugged the new one in, the truck came back to life! Thanks a ton man
Pj Mihalko - so glad it worked for you! No better feeling than finding that broken part... Take care man!
Brian Ealy thanks man, you too!
A bad MAP sensor can cause rich mixtures. If your plugs are fouled, replace the MAP sensor. Run the engine at fast idle to let the engine clear out the rich mixture.
@@hankbridges5055 TRUE that, Mr. Hank. Have a half-dozen new sparkers on hand if you've put off a tune up or fatally fouled the tips on your plugs. And yeppers - no harm in letting the system get to operating temps for a while to see if the lean mixture will effectively clean the older plugs.
MAF sensor's are used in all states , I have one on a 01 Ford Taurus SEL, I got in New Mexico , and got another 04 Taurus SEL 3.0L in Tennessee , I know this video was done while back but with the OBD2 implemented it's a better sensor and does more functions than a MAP sensor could handle.
I never comment on videos, but I've been going crazy for +1 year trying to fix my 1988 4.9. Replaced fuel parts, coil and wires, temp sensor.... FINALLY the MAP sensor! Thanks buddy!!!
Lauren Baier - Glad it worked for you!! Thanks,... take care!
Hi Brian, Thank you for your video. I got my truck fixed. There should be rewards in heaven for people like you! Thank you!
Brian,
Just a note to thank you for your no nonsense advice and straight shooting expertise. My old F150 has been ressurrected and I take 10% credit. 90 goes to you.
Yes, I subscribed.
Allen Bryant - June 2020
My 1990 F150 would not stay running unless I kept pumping the throttle, Very similar to your video. I then changed the MAP sensor as you did and my problem is solved.. Thanks so much for making this video.
I don’t normally comment but I felt the need to thank you. I’ve had idle problems in 88 f-150 4.9l for 2 years and I just put the MAP sensor in and it seems to have fixed the problem thanks a million.
xxTANK1992xx - No problem man. Hope it holds out to be your end fix. Very much appreciated... Take care!
I have 94 f150 when I take off in od its very sluggish tell I put in 2ed gear auto transmission it just started doing that ,what is cause of it ?? I wach all of your videos haven't found my problem yet looking forward to more of your videos thank u bro .
@@kentrymason5566 I have 93 5.0 mine wants to die when I stop at stop lights or sometimes stop signs and today it's actually dying and acting like the battery is dead think it's solenoid or stater going to change both changed brake booster for idle problem was told that had to do with vacuum but didn't seem to help will try map sensor
@@davidrussell789 Did the MAP sensor replacement fix the issue?
@@2004Bishop didn't try that ended up just yesterday plugging off my charcoal box at the engine and seemed to run better on my way to work this morning. Didn't want to die but now that I say this it will die on my way home. Also adjusted idle to about 1000 rpm.
The only good thing I got out of this video, and was the music at the end of the video. because I'm a huge Rainbow fan. I have a 1989 Ford F250 4x4 with 5.8L 351W. and I've already done everything that was described in this video plus. I cleaned the idle air control valve and installed it with a new gasket. replaced the MAP sensor, replaced the EGR valve, replaced the TPS which requires the removal of the throttle body. and cleaned the throttle body, allthough there was a hell of lot of soot/carbon in the plenom. I cleaned the plenom as good as I could. but it was pretty much impossible to get it all out of there. and replaced the O2 sensor, and went through with the multi tester and made sure everything was within spec.. and now I'm certain that it runs worse than it did before. it idles way high and then way down low and constantly stalls. it gets horrible fuel mileage it's almost impossible to drive it the way it is? I have decided that I'm done working on the piece of shit. and I have decided that I'm done with Ford and their garbage. I'm going to look for something else to drive. and then I'm going to abandon the piece shit on the side of the road. enough is enough!!!!!!
great video/direct and to the point the way it should be...
harold durant - thanks, much appreciated!
Also, a dirty/malfunctioning EGR valve will cause a rough idle. My f150 is a 1995 model, and I’m quite sure it has a mass airflow sensor, right after the air filter and before the throttle body. Don’t think it’s a California model either. Great video , love Dio
Great video. Bought a 1989 f150 for $300 bucks. Real rough idle. Replaced the sensor and voila. Idle is smooth and engine is strong. My check engine light also turned off.
Heck of a deal gor this monste4
I’m saving this video to my favorites. I just bought a ‘96 F-150 with the 4.9L I-6. This may come in handy one day. Thanks for posting it!!
Much appreciated! Thanks!
@@BrianEaly dude I have a question I have a '91 F-150 5.0 liter every little bit randomly either it will randomly burn up the computer the ignition control module or rarely the coil do you have any ideas or does anybody have any ideas where I can look it sounds like a wire or ground or something but I have checked this thing thoroughly or a slice when they made the harness is worn out I just don't know where to go I'm looking at all the wires 15 minutes my mind is burn up no drugs included lmao jk seriously this is my only vehicle and I've been down for two weeks and my budget is hurting bad very bad so any help anybody can give me crazy appreciated I don't even care if it's absolutely wrong thankyou guys
You the Man!!! Got a 94 f150 5.8L V8 Windsor. Kept dieing and stalling out. Replaced the fuel filter, same problem. Cleaned the IAC and map sensor like you said, no problems perfect idle at 900 to 1k rpm in park!!! Saved me $350 bucks. That what the local mech would have charged for labor
Thanks for watching and giving it a shot! Take care!!!
It's cold here, often. Mine would cold start to around 2200 rpm. I did not like! Rough on cold cylinders, etc. I made a restriction plate from alum flashing and too the iac port to about half sized hole. Sealant and install. Perfect. Seems just how I Like it. Doesn't have that high rev cold start.
Great video you did. Thanks
Bless you! I have an '89 and have had this issue since I bought it. I have to feed it gas to keep it going/rough idle/sluggish acceleration. I'm excited to try this fix, it is otherwise a great little truck and I love driving it. Thanks!
5.8ford v8 91ford bronco
Will a 5.8 run on the same brain
Five. 891 Ford bronco what the computer come inside from a five. Oh to a five. Eight motor on a 91 Ford bronco four-wheel-drive I’d like to know the answer
You are a true mechanic and I love that you explain and show exactly where to start and how to do the job right good job
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It'll check live, record, emissions test, it'll turn off the check engine light, it'll turn off the oil maintenance light, it checks transmission codes, ABS, SRS, and MORE!
your idler pulley squeaking at the end is a reminder of how i need to warranty mine that i just bought 6 months ago and squeaked ever since. why havent i returned it to autozone yet? idk. but its coming off tomorrow. thanks bud
very good vid. oem vacuum lines are prone to crack and leak causing similar problems idling and running.. good idea to check all vac lines and connectors too.
AWESOME ... I have an 86 f150 4x4 5.0 .... THIS FIXED MY TRUCK . I cleaned out the IACB and runs great . thanks
Hoping this is what's going on with my truck, ordered a new MAP sensor today. Thanks for making the video!
so I just found out I might have a California truck. I'm currently in Alabama, military so not to be surprised but still I was looking for a map sensor i don't have.thank you for quick content, and information may have saved me some time
Seems to have fixed my rusty old 1995 f250 5.8. Check engine light is gone and driving a little better, hopefully it’ll continue with no issues! Thanks
Thanks for giving it a shot, hopefully she is good to go... best of luck to you! Take care.
How's the MAP sensor holding up after 4 years? just curious how its working for such a cheap price. Awesome video.
I'm curious as well
Still work I'm wondering too
Fir that price you buy 3 problem solved duhhhh
Awesome, I parked mine for a year or year and a half. Just got it out again and it has a rough idle, hope this works.
Liked your video, keep featuring the animals. I've been messing with one of these that nearly dies at idle when you first touch the gas. It's straight drive so it's very easy to choke off. Anyways, I found out today that the gasket between the throttle body and the rest of the intake was in terrible shape. If the truck has had a lot of air intake alterations and replaced sensors etc. this is worth a look. My truck is nearing 290,000 and the gasket was thin with bubbles that cracked when I touched them. Pieces could easily go in the motor, and it looks like air was definitely tunneling through the gasket. People with trucks under 100k had same problem on here. Replacement is a couple dollars at O'Really's, cheers.
Happened to me too! The bolts were loose and valve was bubbles up just like yours. Did you have a check engine light? Mine is 327. It’s still on but I haven’t driven 100 miles.
@@tope.sosanya no light that I can remember? 327k miles?
brother thank you very much I have been looking for the problem of my f 350 ford for more than a year and your video helped me to find the problem Thank you and from Puerto Rico we send you a big hug brother
Thanks for the link! MAP sensor for my 88 f150 5.0 was $87 at my local autozone
Thank you! I came back here to comment and say that in the 1 minute it took me to replace this it freaking worked. only recommendation, drive the truck before you assume it didn't fix it. lol
Love the chickens Mr. E. I'm so glad you are going over this I have every system of a bad map sensor plus when looked at it the silicone inside and where the pins meet silicone all of that had cracks around it with white looking corrosion under the pins where it meet. With that and this video I'm more and more convinced thats it.
I want to thank you for your help. Im not good with trucks and your video was simple and easy to understand i was amazed that i even didnt have a problem following and for that im grateful. You made proud to be American. Thanks again ,those chickens look good by the way . Lol!!!God bless us all.
I live in texas but my 94 f150 doesn't have a map sensor.just a mass sensor
Great video! Easy explanations and visuals! Lots of those older f150 around and this video will be of great help.
Thanks man! I appreciate it!
getting my 89 F150 this week in Englend £3500 they still hold thei value here good video
Out standing for those who don't live with this stuff. God Bless.
What difference was with your video was california or other engines....did go in canada supplier (canadian tire)shoved on screen california type by watched out your your video yet my actual engine did not have some thing resembles that also they discontinuoud to cary...if I had purchased would have returned...mine is I have being assured outside of California type(Windsor engine)...Thank you for looks like small yet for me yet big differences bit of info...👏👏👏🙏👍
Ty. For your video sure did help me!, replace the part ($48. Auto zone) today and it's running better than it was before or in awhile, thanks again! O'! 1990 e-150 4.9_ s6.
Richard DeLeon - no problem man... so glad it helped you... these are the kind of comments that make the videos so much fun to make. Take care buddy.
Awesome intro with RJD. Nice chickens too.
I'm not sure about all motors but I know 95 and newer 5.0 302s all have maf sensors. And if you want to put a cam in your 302 it needs a maf not map sensor my 1990 runs like shit with a cam ran great stock so I'm updating to the maf sensor and hopefully that's the end of my troubles and still get more power
I have a 93 Ford F150 with a 4.9 your video came in very handy thanks for the help
Great video, nice work. My two cents is to check every connector on the engine sensors very, very carefully, they're famous for losing their seal over time. Then air and moisture and a few thousand heat cycles corrode the conductors and failure or even worse random hard AF to troubleshoot issues can happen, even though the sensor might be just fine, if the signal to the ECU is bad, so is idle/acceleration. Good luck my 4.9 I-6 peeps!
Thanks for the write up, its also worth mentioning if your sensors are receiving power and ground. You can also look up the part number for any of your sensors or use alldata to figure out the operating voltage of the different sensors and testing during startup/idle.
@@izftpvp822 Correct. The Digital Multimeter is the magical eyeball that sees the voltage or dead short your eye can't. RUclips also has video on how to look at your meter, how to use it, and what it can show you. These engines are pretty simple, but the first/ second generation EFI electrical bits can create trouble. It's a simple circuit, you can fix it.
I have the same truck but Red,, blacked out just like that
Brian does a nice job of right to the point explanation. His video is clear.
Great videos. You get right to the point. No music and no graphics.
Thanks so much, the MAP sensor seemed to have been the culprit on my F-150. Subscribed!
Great vid. I have the same truck, same color
Thank you Brian!!! Always LOVE your videos! You've been VERY helpful for my fleet of F-150's! I appreciate you!
Patrick PhippsPA - thanks man... 🙏 nothing better than an old truck, and hand tools to keep em going. Take care!
4.9 inline V6? Does it have a mono-directional notched neoprene synchronizing device.
patr10t762 lol that’s what I saw and was like 🤔
Some f150s came with maf around the east coast not only California.
Dude ! 94 F150 4.9 Info. on how to take care of my Idle. Sweet Truck. The chickens & Goats put it
over the Top. Thanks.
Hell yeah. I think that’s what’s up with mine. 93 OBS inline 6
I have been trying to figure this out for over a year! I no idea the MAP sensor was clear over on the fire wall! Thank you...I was just about to set this truck on fire-
Thanks for your advice. It fixed the problem on my truck ford 4.9l. Now it runs much better. .L.V . NV. 11-7-2019
Test the fuel pressure regulator.. make sure the diagram is intact and not allowing fuel to leak past into the intake
I have a 94 5.0 bronco. No map sensor on the fire wall.
Great video, explains so much going to the parts house right now to get a map sensor
Dude...your vidios are exactly to the point.. No bs...thanks
Hey
Thanks a lot
That fixed my truck issue
On 1988 F150 4.9 w standard trans
👍
Thanks, I have a 1990 F-150 5.0l XLT LARIAT with the same problem, then replace the MAP sensor and Voala!!! Works great again. 👍
My 93 F150 5.0L was a combination of TPS and ignition control module. And I had to modify the TPS and dial it in with my multimeter
I'm curious if your truck had check engine light flashing? I'm having hell with a 90 f150 4.9 that has lost power rough idle low fuel pressure spits and sputters if you accelerate. However if you pump the pedal while driving it accelerates better. I had changed plugs (that had welded themselves in and hadn't been changed in nearly a decade) rotor cap distributor cap plug wires and it was running better than I've ever seen it with the slightest hiccup at idle about every 2 mins. Not even a miss just a hiccup. I had planned on cleaning the fuel injection system and was looking for a high pressure set up when my friend that owns it decided to obsess over the hiccup after stating he'd never seen it run that good since he owned it. He sent it to a shop. A week later and 600.00 he showed up with it running worse than before I changed the plugs wires rotor etc. Fuel pressure was 0 ke eo for several tries. After 10 tomes it hit 30 psi. Running showed 0 psi. I pulled the filter which was a couple months old dumped it out. Shot air thru it and got 30 psi running. Pulled the fuel pressure regulator hose off and no increase in pressure. Changed it to one with 52 psi and getting 38 psi running 51 when turned off. I feel like the fuel pump is weak. The rear tank hasn't worked in decades. I pulled codes again and got two in memory non in active codes. One was secondary fuel circuit fault the other was egr? Code 32 I think. I checked the timing the other night and it was crazy. The mark is near impossible to see due to belts alternator,tranny lines to radiator vacuum noses and the position of the timing marks over the balancer but the line was not constantly visible. There were 30 second lapses and longer. When I raised the rpms a bit it was steadier and looked to be just past the Big V notch showing 10 degrees before top dead center. I have no idea what the idiots did at the shop but they delivered it without saying anything. Like sorry we charged you 600 and made your truck run like shit. But you should have seen it coming because we charged your wife 350. to add a can of freon to her Cadillac that got cold for 20 mins then got hot again. Thank you fir being such wonderful suckers I mean customers
Tenía el mismo problema , cambie el sensor map y se arregló.👍🏼
Esos 2 filtros de aire te da mejor rendimiento al motor?
No Sh1t! Just like the others said “straight to the point” I have the same motor in my 1995 F250, replaced and cleaned what you suggested. Voila she is working perfectly again! If had a neighbor offer to buy the truck since he seen me getting it running 😂
Hey i was wondering if u could help with the problem I have. It's somewhat similar, I have a 1992 ford 5.0 and it has rough/unstable idle, hesitation, pings in acceleration, and stutters at cruising speeds. I have all new ignition parts and a few other things
harley kane try temperature sensor. It worked for my 94 f150
harley kane make sure you check out your Cat it could have a blockage, I had the same symptoms on my F250 tried different things it gave me fits ,finally checked out the Cat it was nearly stopped up
Im late to the party but great content and Props for Dio at the End
Love the 87-97 F-150
thanks for sharing, will do check the map sensor and the idler sensor.
I like the help and them two gals at the end just made it even better nice video
Cone intakes on a speed density (map sensor) truck? How's that work out? I thought about an intake upgrade but was advised against it due to the speed density system not actually knowing how much air is going in, rather only knowing the manifold pressure.
Hey great video, do you think the IDLE CONTROL could make a 4.9 spudder when first start up when cold...? Than it idles up and runs great.
I live in alabama and I have a 95 f150 with the 5.0 and it has a mass air flow sensor and no map sensor I wonder why.
The truck was probably in CA at one time.
Dude you just fixed my F150. Tnx bro
I cleaned my idle air control valve but it is too far gone. Disconnecting its wire allowed me to idle right but it won't do the warm up rpms is only difference I can notice.
Great info thanks 👍. Ive got an 89 4.9 F150 hadn’t checked anything yet it starts and idles good but shuts off when going into reverse but not drive; why does it not like reverse?
D J 92 drive and reverse mine dies ever find the problem
I found info on that it said Your transmission fluid may be slightly low.
henrysmooth mine does he same thing but the transmission fluid is fine I just got an oil change and they checked all the fluid levels
If not vaccuum leakage or Idle air valve it very well might be that darn ole
MAP sensor.
I live in alabama and I have a mass air flow sensor
Hey brother, what size pipe did you use for the air intakes? I've been thinking about doing this on mine, just haven't got around to it. Lol. It looks like 2 1/2 or 3 Inch pipe. Is it just exhaust pipe?
94+ trucks with v8s have a mass air flow sensor (302/351 f150s)
How do I know if it’s the mass air flow sensor or the map sensor?
Location, location, location.. the MAP sensor is mounted (with a wiring harness AND a pencil-thick vacuum line) on the firewall, in front of the glove-box area of the square-body Ford trucks. The MAF is, on every vehicle that employs the tech, mounted (with a wiring harness only [no vacuum line]) into the air-intake ducting. It will be between the air filter and the throttle body if it's on your vehicle
I found the fix it was the egr vacuum regulator/solenoid
Watching from Texas, good stuff man very helpful also watched the video on the fuel tank replacement that helped a lot as well!!! \M/
One of the best videos out there. Nice job!!!
I have a 95 F150..straight 6..it has 260,000 miles on it ..and runs good..been stalling lately..so I may buy that part and clean the other one..just changed the fuel filter today
I bought my truck in 2001
Thanks!
now my truck idles and runs fine, not missing anymore. (all new tanks, fuel pumps, Throttle position sensor, plugs wires dist cap, fuel filters) got a map sensor for it to see if it helps.. problem now is... doesn't seem to get fuel when starting, takes a while to crank over. fuel pump does run when key is on acc.....thoughts?
My 94 f150 takes long to start as well. I replace the fuel pressure regulator (old one had missing orings. 20 psi) Psi is 30 (on the low end with key on but not starting) and Still long start (was going to replace map sensor to see if that was the problem). TPSensor problem?!? I heard not to pump gas padel when cranking as sensor is setting default position.
Let me know if you find a fix....
Great help. 1990 f150 5.0 I didnt have to buy a thing and spent less than an hour including watching and commenting! You should make a video on how to make good videos. Thanks
KROLICK - Thanks man... 🍺 really appreciate it! Take care!
My 92 f150 has a rough idol , if i give it some gas after about 2ish minutes it will get to a point its holding itself up without stalling but once i try to switch gears it stalls.. No amount of stepping on the gas will keep it alive in gear. It doesnt get even rev up in gear, But it will in park. Once it stalls you have to wait hours to try again. Right after it stalls, it will crank and crank. After 3+ hours it catches almost instantly rinse and repeat. Can not figure it out.
Before you say it , it has a new transmission replaced 8k miles ago.
Truck itself has 261k.
Brian..i got a 95 f-150 that has a sticker under the hood that reads ..timing on this motor which is a 4.9 inline 6 cannot be adjusted..which mines this engine is excempt as far as smog is concerned...had a star smog guy tell me that plus i read the sticker to...didnt know if you knew that but thought i would pass it along to you an others that may be viewing...
I like the video you make. question, my 1992 f150 4.9 V6 the sparkplug get so hot and brake itself, would you have idea what's is the problem!?
I have a 92 ford f150 that is doing the same thing as yours in this video and your other video, with the paper clip. My truck now doesn't want to start, it'll crank all day but won't start! I haven't tried the stuff in your other video yet cause I just seen it but any ideas on what could be the problem? And does the paper clip method still work even if I can't get the truck to start as since you had to hold the gas to keep it running
Where's the map sensor in a earlier model? If there is one....I just bought an 86 and I have to keep on the gas for it to stay running. I just did the carb cleaner on the throttle body. But I think what you showed might work better for me. I know nothing mechanically. And just research everything myself. My ford is a manual and has the in line fuel filter with the big round air filter with the metal case that sits on the throttle body.
Katie - I know it sucks... but to be real there are so many options of possible things that could be wrong... could be: mass air flow sensor, idle air control valve, egr valve, map sensor, fuel pump, o2 sensor, fuel filter, vacuum leak... there are so many things with the same exact symptoms. These models don't have a modern scan port, but you can scan them with a hack method. I did a video of how to do it... couple minutes I will try to find the link. Will send it your way --> best of luck
Katie ... there is the link to the video mentioned... give it a try! ruclips.net/video/bQB9D5MKaQ8/видео.html
Ok. Thank you for the info!! I will watch that one too 😊
Good video. I have a '96 F150 4.9 4x4 XLT. Subscribed!
i8 have a 1997 ford 250 was banging into gear and running rough i did what ya did works great..thanks man
Mine is banging into gear, every gear. You think its the mass air flow sensor? Strange!
Thannk you Brian, changed map sensor on my 88 Crown Vic it fixed my no idle problem
Phil Fox - awesome man.. glad it helped. Thanks for trying it and watching. Take care!
thank you .. just purchased 1993 Ford F150 standard need some tlc 4.9 in line 6 ..
Awesome Video! How's old blue doing now?
Just found this video,, great information, but in 2020 that part is $89 plus on that site.. oh well, I'll try elsewhere.. new subscriber anyways, liked your no BS right to the point.. many blessings.
Haha, them hens are not people. But best keep an eye on where they are laying them eggs. Nice video and great information.
When you put your cold air intake on, did your engine lose power or acceleration problems?
Thank you very much Brian. This solved my problem. Although I did buy my sensor from Autozone for $42.00 cause I couldn't wait.
Nikola Tesla - thanks for watching! Much appreciated! Take care.
I have a 91 f150 4.9. It is a CA truck but has a MAP sensor🤔
So does my 91 E150
I live in Virginia but my f150 has a mas air sensor I think sometimes they just get sent out all over and end up different places
i had to put one of then on my 1990 f150 4.9 300 2 weeks ago,,run good now
Im curious if your check engine light was coming on or staying on. Ive got one that was running like new. Had the slightest miss about 1 min apart. Not really a miss. Old man obsessed and sent it to a shop. I heard him pull up spitying sputtering running worse than it was before i removed the spark plugs that had actually welded themselves in the cylinder head changed wires rotor cap dist cap fuel filter that was on backwards and looked like it was put on in 1990. No check engine light has come on snd this thing will barely run. Im leaning toward fuel pressure. I would love to know what the shop did to it. Id never seen it run as good as it was when he sent it to the shop. I find it hard to believe it was an accident. The worst me hanic on the planet had to notice it ran like new when they got it and it will barely idle and drops to no power with foot on the floor a week after they had it in their shop.