Ford BMS Battery Monitoring System: How it Works and How to Properly Charge Your Battery!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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Comment.....This is the perfect example of making things way more complicated than it needs to be.
Right? C'mon Ford, do better.
This very same system is on most Nissan vehicles, and it sucks 😡
Seems batteries lasted longer with the older dumb alternator charging profile. Older cars are bulletproof compared to these
@@poobank the "stop start " technology on new vehicles is supposed to save the planet & keep fuel costs down ( probably by around 0.00001p) it rips the arse out of the battery & starter which you have to replace far more often !! How odd that the cost of starter motors and batteries have shot up !! Average price for a new battery in the u.k. is around £400.00. It foesnt seem that long ago when the average battery was around £80.00.
You're telling me. Disconnected it on an X-trail, vehicle fine ever since.
@@robert.wjohnson5726
I'm 67 and remember when vehicles were soooo easy to work on in the 60's and 70's. Things have really changed. Thanks so much for posting this. I just got a 2013 Explorer to replace a much older old but amazing vehicle. I am equally as amazed at what's under the hood today!
Thank You Sir!
If you actually think about it tho while yes vehicles have become more complicated the access to information like this is absolutely crazy and makes working on your own car easier.
@@MrTaylorfenoglio - Well, today, yes. 40 years ago, I could totally disassemble and reassemble a GM vehicle with a $20 Chiltons manual and if I knew one GM, I probably could work on many other GMs. Today, with needing a tablet/code reader/scanner, computer, etc, it just blows my mind. I'm more of a parts changer that relies on diagnostics. In the old days (yes, I'm a fossil) I could walk up to a vehicle and have it talk to me and fix it without the need for today's technology. Then again, back then, vehicles did not have the reliability they have today but all of the sensors, etc. just blow my mind.
@@thomask4836 I totally understand. Diagnosing is the main issue that's hard even for sesond mechanics. That's of course the reason I'm here is because I can't diagnose battery saver error and communication errors in getting
As a Ford Tech in the Philippines, i found it very useful to know .. I've been doing it wrong not until i saw your video . Thanks for the info ..
A tangent on this video that may be VERY useful to cover is the BMS age reset process. Often times even dealers who replace the 12v batteries don't bother to reset this and the system still thinks the brand new battery is years/days old. And for those doing it themselves, they likely have no clue this needs to be done to optimize the charge/discharge behavior for the new battery.
I replaced the AGM battery on my wife's Acura TLX and asked a local Acura tech about a reset because it wouldn't reset with the procedure on ProDemand. He didn't know what I was talking about!
Battery internal resistance reset
I am about to replace the battery in my 19’ from what I’ve found to reset BMS you can put key on without starting the engine, hit high beams 5 times, brake pedal 3 times. Cycle key off on and watch dash for battery light to flick. Would love Brians thoughts
I just replaced the battery in my Focus ST. Will be using FORScan to reset the BMS after fully charging the battery. I definitely would like to get the FTM perspective on the proper way/sequence of events to replace the battery and maximize its life. Also interested in his thoughts on coding the system to match the battery capacity.
I’m in a similar boat as he is. About 6 miles to work. Thinking about hard wiring a battery maintainer connection.
Bmw requires this. It was funny when they implemented it and everyone was just complaining saying why would you need to program and new battery bla bla bla there trying to steal my money! These are people that don’t know how the system works and just screw themselves when there brand new battery is being cooked to death.
You can tell the car it has a new battery and even change the type from agm to lead acid and the cca of the battery so it will charge it correctly. You can do this with your phone and a dongle or an adapter and a laptop. It’s not hard to do.
Another cool thing with bmw is they always watch and store how your drives are and if your doing short drives that won’t charge it back up as well as the average charger percentage of the battery over that life of it.
This makes it easy to see if there’s an issue with the car or the driver.
Our shop foreman makes sure it gets done. But yes, you're right
I bypassed my BMS 60 k miles ago and about 8 years ago, no more battery problems.
Same here.. no more issues! Did it about 3 yrs ago. 👍
Great video, Brian. Very informative. I imagine this approach to battery charging can apply to all new vehicles with a battery monitoring system so you've helped out those of us who currently don't own a Ford product.
Is the BMS just on Ford products? Good info to know 😊
Shit like this is why I still drive a 30 year old F150.
And keep old appliances as long as possible !!
Agree with you not a fan of nes ford's
I always learn something new from these videos! I had no idea modern vehicles had these kinds of things. All of this tech makes my 2004 Ford Ranger look positively ancient by comparison. 😂
Ancient is not bad.
But yo don’t have to worry about silly things like this.$250 battery and still using.50 cent battery ends
I guess shop’s will have a menu price for regular battery charging All to save a bit of engine load and a dribble of gas
But more reliable and maintainable..
@@alanmorrison3598 tell that to the rancher
I use a battery maintainer once a week on my short distance daily driver. Run it over night. I use the post on the body. Great video
Does 1/week seem to do it for you?
Have a 2020 F-250. I would like to know if a Battery Tender, with 2 AMPs charging rating, if properly installed (Following the video's excellent directions) will mitigate the issue.
Your videos are always so good, so helpful. Amazing to me you don't focus even more on youtube. Between you and South Main Auto you guys have, literally, saved me $1,000s of dollars. TYVM.
Not sure about Fords, but most of the new foreign manufacturers have a similar system which called a VVCS (variable voltage charging system). This monitors the charging of the battery from the alternator so once the sensor detects the battery is charged “enough”, maybe 80%, it can stop charging, and now save that .0001 % power to save fuel. Kinda like the A.S.S. (Auto start/stop) feature. Both systems are designed to give manufacturers C.A.F.E. credits because these systems will supposedly save the consumer fuel, when in turn it is a solution looking for a problem. Just like many have found the solution to the A.S.S. button by programming it off or bypassing it. The VVCS can also be bypassed or disconnected so the alternator FULLY charges the battery to 100%, and thus eliminates any voltage irregularities and leaves the battery perfectly intact and charged. I myself have a few vehicles with the VVCS unplugged and even was instructed by a certified technician that some manufacturers have TSBs indicating that if customers come in with “electrical” issues with no codes thrown, to try the disconnecting of the VVCS to see if it rectifies the electrical issues, which according to the tech, most ARE corrected. This in no way has affected any of my “sensitive” electronics. This actually now guarantees the correct voltage is flowing to all equipment without going through a “sensor or gate keeper” that will open or close the charging system, which effects flow to sensitive electrical components, giving false/ghost errors!! Another stupid design that will cause more issues than the .03mpg it will save over the course of a year. Not worth it in my opinion. 👎🤮
thanks for important info, Brian. My 2006 mustang gt 99,000 miles. Last few years only drove it about 2,000 mi a year ,never had a problem with battery. my wife's 2021 porsche 911 started to have intermittent warning light that front end lift needs service, sometimes sunroof tilt open function would close roof and then open again. I was told by dealer to use trickle charger to keep battery charged. she puts 3,500 mi on car every year. got trickle charger, now car works fine. car has start-stop system and electric power steering.
Another of ford's better ideas.
This is awesome, some of the new ranger next gen trucks had battery drain and dead problems within a couple days after parking, and cannot start the engine. the service tech told there was no problem with AGM battery and electrical system.
Amazing video! Brian this video has saved me so much time and trouble shooting on my 2012 F-150 Lariat. Thought it was my alternator or wire issues on why my battery light kept coming on even after charging the battery "The Incorrect way" to 100% 🤦♂
This kind of information can be very important to anyone who is going to install any kind of aftermarket wiring. I know of a situation where someone accidently ran a 12V wire for a accessory through the hall effect current sensor on a F350 and it caused the truck to over charge the battery. It actually caused the battery to explode and caught the truck on fire!
The more I deal with modern vehicles the more the late 80's would seem to be absolutely the pinnacle of everyday transportation.
Not a big fan of the auto start and stop, but I am a big fan of the channel.....great job...
Great video, lots of info, love your channel. My question is with all of the loads on the system why hasn’t Ford put in a bigger alternator and regulator to be able to keep the battery maintained better? I would expect the system to be able to at least supply measured draw + some small charging amps within a minute or two of starting the vehicle with the regulator being able to prevent overcharging.
have you noticed police cars are always running or plugged into an extension cord?
Cost, I would guess.
I was thinking the exact same thing!
The charging system is more than capable of keeping up. F150 with start/stop comes with a 200 amp alternator "ford calls it generator" police units have a 240 amp. I know its the end of the world if you unplug the bms and you lose start/stop but short trips to work will charge the battery without having to put a external charger on it. Or anyone familiar with forscan can turn it off that way. No check engine light, just unplug the sensor. I apologize in advance for putting this info on here but people thinking the charging system in inadequate it is false.
@@bukkalaraha maybe you could comment on my post you seem to have the answer I may be looking for
I have always charged my Taurus SHO with a Ctec charger connected to the terminals. The car sits a fair amount, especially during the winter. I guess I should change where I am connecting the charger. When I drive it, I drive it a good distance, so I am hopefully replacing what so used to start the car. Looks like a good reason to drive old cars.
When you replace the battery with a new one, how do you reset the BMS data record?
This!
Get out your wallet, spend time driving to the dealership, pay $120 for them to take five minutes to reset the computer, spend time driving home, continue enjoying your modern masterpiece of vehicle engineering. The gift that keeps on giving (you a bill).
What is the answer?
I’m not sure if he’s giving you an answer, but I use jumper cables and a spare battery, connect the jumper cables from the spare battery to the leads while the original battery is still connected. Now you can remove your original battery and put in a new one, connect the leads and you will have never removed power from the system. Turn ignition on, hit brights 5 times, pump brake 3 times. Let sit for 8 hours for good measure…….be sure to hold your mouth just right.
You almost had me until the mouth thing. LOL.
Thank you for posting. My 2021 F150 Lariat was also not updating because of this.
For me, it is hard to fathom that a modern vehicle that no doubt has at least a 100 amp alternator can not keep the battery charged driving 8 miles one way. Really? That would put Ford off my list. But I digress.>>> Thanks for this video
Always entertaining during lunch break!
Every time I do a big project on my truck, you’re the first knowledge stop for me. Thank you so much for all you do for us Ford owners.
Learnings:
I was planning on keeping my '09 about 7 more years.. looks like I'll need to plan to keep it longer 😄.
I am dismayed the BMS/BCM doesn't maintain the battery charged for short trips, retired, my routine is numerous short trips, then every few months tow my car hauler. several hundred miles.
I hope "telling" the system there is a new battery is simple / doable by the owner, I ponder does the "BMS/BCM" need to know (be programed to know) the new batteries 'ratings' if different than the OEM battery.
Other items: Good habit: always connect the negative last (jump starting / charging), and NOT on the battery terminal, find a good ground (usually the alternator bracket is most convenient) that way IF there is a spark the spark is nowhere near the battery and potential hydrogen gas. Watching this video gives another reason, which is to "not fool" / bypass the current sensor of the BMS/BCM.
Hi Brian…love the videos. I’m a former Ford tech with a 2021 F150. I’m curious to know what power up software version your truck is on. My battery was discharging rapidly with an 18 mile commute 5 days a week each day. I believe my truck was hung on one of the OTA updates causing the problem. I charged the battery and then left it disconnected for a few hours. Coincidentally, the truck completed an update 30 minutes or so after the battery was reconnected. I have since received a few more updates and and I can tell when they are being downloaded because the auto-start-stop won’t function and the cluster states it’s due to battery charging. A few days later, I get a notification that updates were downloaded and installed. Some updates aren’t successful with one attempt and require Ford to send it a few times before they complete. Once an update finishes and the battery is recharged, everything works perfectly until the next update is pushed out by Ford and the whole process starts again. Check you connected data on OASIS and it will tell you when OTA updates are sent and installed. Maybe this will help explain you battery discharge issue. It seems a little excessive to me since I found all the modules go to sleep within less than 15 minutes or so.
I have all the latest updates in all the models as of last month when I updated the truck to activate Blue Cruise. I have never had a no crank or even a slow crank situation just a perceived low SOC by the module but yes I know of the issue you are speaking about.
thanks for the info just got a 13 f150 a few months ago and running into this even had my alternator and battery tested and both tested good
I unplugged the BMS on my 2016 F150 XLT 302A a few days after I bought it brand new off the lot. That was 190K miles ago and have had zero issues. Original battery lasted 5 years.
I unplugged the BMS on my 2018 F150 Lariat 502A the same day that I bought it before even driving it off the lot. That was 124K miles ago and I have had zero issues. Original battery lasted 6 years.
The reason that I always unplug the BMS is to disable the idiotic Stop/Start function. I've never had to reset or reprogram anything when installing a new battery. Never have had any kind of a charging issue.
You won't have any charging issues the BMS system just optimizes it based on battery age.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thank you for clarifying. I think most people don't realize that this system is not needed to charge the battery.
I too disconnected when new 2019 no issues 2024 100000 miles.
That Start stop is a too much stress on me. No starter.
Range Rover.. no can do. Throws a fit! Says on the dash, emergency GLOBAL WARMING!! 😂😂
@@kickingagainstthepricks4059
😂😂😂👍👍
If I want to keep the BMS , where would I attach the positive and negative wires directly to the battery for my ham radio instal ? On the metal on top of the BMS ,like where you show the jumper cable attached , or on the battery post ? My radio instructions say to go directly to the battery with it fused as close as possible to the battery. This will be a 30 amp fused run. Ford is no help. They are afraid of the lawyers I guess. I am in emergency services and that doesn’t matter to them. Thanks for the great video. 👍🏻👍🏻
I have been waiting for this video. I have a 21 f150. My auto start stop only worked for 6 months. Now my zone lighting, interior lighting and the low charge message on my sync 4 screen are issues. I have taken it to the dealership 3 times for the auto start stop and gave up taking it in before the other issues came up. For a year and a half these features have not worked in my truck and my local Ford dealership has been useless.
HEY MAKULOCO when installing a new battery do you need to reset this?? can you do a video on it?
yup
@@Grindhousewatch2007 Thanks!
@@FordTechMakuloco 2021 Ranger any simple way to disable auto start/stop without messing up other electronics? The button is a pain. Thanks.
Trade it back in😅😅😅
That's the same year I have LOVE IT first ford I ever owned. This is great to know
So basicly, the ECM is working like a Dead Recogning Plotter, meaning that it doesn't actually read the battery voltage, it just figures that your battery is 4 years old and you've been charging it for 2 hours so it must be dead. With all of the battery testing equipment out there you'd think the ECM could actually test the battery on a continuous basis. I personally belive this is done to tie you to your dealer for any battery service. I know when I had my 2013 F150, I replaced the battery after about 5 years when I kept getting that shutdown message about the battery being low. I replaced it with an AGM battery of the same rating but the message kept popping up. I found that I needed to reprogram the ECM module so it would know that I put a new battery in, otherwise the system might overcharge the battery thinking that it was 5 years old. It was even worse with my wife's 2015 MB C250. After 5 years the OEM battery started to slow down so I replaced it with an AGM battery that was identical to the original. Six months later, I was at the dealer for another issue when they told me my battery was bad. They couldn't get it to take a charge and they would be glad to replace it and program the ECM for $500. I said no and left. That was two and a half years ago and the battery is still going strong. What drives me crazy is I can reprogram my BMS with a decent terminal but not the MB. They will only let you read the codes but you cannot get into the battery maintenance setup unless you're a dealer.
I always learn something very useful from your videos. This explains the behavior I have noticed with my daughters F150. Thanks.
Once again you explain something fundamental about my 2012 F150 that I should have already known. Bravo and LOVE this channel!
Thank you for a pretty timely topic. I've had my 184K mile F-150 give me the Battery saver message, even after a 35 minute drive, all at highway speeds, and nag about battery saver, but checking (3rd party gauge) the batt voltage, it would be a 13 volts plus. This gives me an idea of what to look for to insure the nagging is only there when it's for real. As mine is the ancient 2013 truck, I'll need to check the hall sensor as well and insure it is in the proper field distance for sensing, and go from there. Again Thanks!!!!
Battery voltage doesn't mean much on the surface (pun intended). There's such a thing called surface charge where if the battery recently had charge put into it, the voltage will be raised like this but the actual usable capacity may still be garbage and the moment you start putting a load on it, the voltage is going to tank again.
This is why the old school recommendation of letting the vehicle sit and all the modules go to sleep before reading battery voltage for accuracy is still good advice. Brian kinda alluded to this when he mentioned the vehicle sitting overnight, key-off to let the BMS relearn the new SOC. Even the BMS needs to wait while things are settled down to get an accurate reading.
Voltage means almost nothing about battery health.
at least you know your alternator is working, but next step is to test the battery.
Hey Brian another great tutoring video you always keep your fans up to date on these Ford truck issues have a great day bro peace and love 💪🏿
This is all usefull info, i too remember the first time i saw a battery current sensor for the first time on a Ford. Its crazy to see the truck is drawing 20 amps key on engine off, while u were showing us the info. That 20 amps must have to be a few lights on also
I just dropped my 2021 F150 off at the dealer for two days last week for this exact issue. I assumed it was due to the battery going bad because I charged the battery and it did not fix the issues. They charged the battery and reset the BMS. Great info to know for when it happens again so I do not need the dealer!
Can't you just recharge the battery directly, then overnight, the system will relearn and see the new status of the battery charge?
Thanks so much Brian for posting this info Brian, very helpful.
I had no idea that little current monitor on my 2012 supported that function. I now know how to charge a battery where there is a BMS on-board. Thanks again for keeping me up to date.
Great video. Few vehicle techs I know would go in to as much detail as calling out the sensor as a Hall effect type; yet again you showing your value and quality rooted in knowledge. Kudos.
I have a 2014 Ford Escape and after resetting the battery life after replacement it reset to a SOC of 93%. In monitoring it over a few hundred miles, it seems like it wants to deliberately keep some SOC headroom to reclaim charge when using regenerative charging for fuel economy. It seems to hold the SOC in the 80% range before intervening and boosting in the absence of sufficient regenerative charging off the vehicles inertia. Can you confirm that is the designed strategy? I don’t think many people realize that the alternator has an adaptive field current being applied like that.
Thanks again for your awesome content.
I absolutely love Brian and his channel and the vids he makes. If I crash my Tesla Model Y to salvage, the next vehicle I'm getting is a Ford pickup F-150!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Brian covers EVERYTHING crucial to these vehicles from around ~2000 to the present. GOD BLESS USMC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Expert analysis is the common theme with your videos!!!
This seems like such an unforced error. An actual smart system would learn your driving habits and keep the battery charged.
Awsome! Thank you for posting this I have a ford and lincoln both having problems related to the BMS.
Start stop disabled? Make it permanent
This explains why my sister-in-law’s 2019 denali battery keeps going died. Thanks for the info.
Perfect timing on me seeing this video.. I recently began working on a municipality fleet and quite stunned at all the battery charging and jump starting issues!!.. Most are ford products and believe this is relevant to some of them with shedding and “dead battery” complaints!! Thanks
Well this explains why the fleet of 22 Amazon vans are dead in the compound. Tried charging them by taking out the seat and isolating each battery but now I know that is not right. They have decided to slam batteries in them for the Christmas rush. I am the one doing that. I have checked for BSM resets with our scan tool and do not see that active command. These Transit vans seem to be alright after batt replacement and then clearing all codes. Will see if I can find the BSM reset again under data monitor. There was no prompt under special functions.
Man I hope the techs at my local Ford dealership are 1/10 as knowledgeable As You Are
yep, i live close to work too and keep an eye on the battery in my st, every couple months i hook the charger up to her to make sure the battery is toped up.
No start stop is that really a bad thing 🤷♂️ lol very informative
Wow that helped me out a lot. I didn’t know that I appreciate that Brian.🤔😉👍
The age old problem of low mile trips. Same problem my grandparents have with their Church goin car, ended up installing a battery tender to keep the battery up during the week. Need a solar panel to charge during the day while at work. Great run through of the system and proper charging connections.
Battery light has been on in my 2003 Ford expedition for over two years. After I replacing the original alt everything seems to charging and works fine. But the light is still on.
Thanks Brian good video is always. And this is a perfect example of why I drive a 99.
agreed
Amen to that!
I wired a 3amp fuse next to the battery & them to a connector so I can plug 🔌 in a trickle charger. Both my low use cars are fine with this. Only thing is I have to remember to unplug and plug on return. Cars are happy and batteries last a very long ⌛️ time.
This video is one of your best. This applies to my 2015 F 150. I have a 2 way radio in for FD use. Every now and then truck won't start. I make short trips all the time. Thank you for making this video because now I understand what's going on.
My 2014 F-150 5.0 did that alarm just once, as I pulled in to my Ford dealer for new tires at 60,000 miles. I think the truck knew it was home. The dealer never mentioned it so I cleaned up the battery posts when I got it home. It never happened again. I did have a sudden failure of the battery months later but the truck was 7 years old by then.
Your comprehensive explanation really helps. Feels like I’m back in school with a good professor who knows there are students in the class who are too afraid to ask questions, and preemptively answers those questions
Why would they place all of these battery assisted/ electronic bs mechanisms on the new vehicles when, there was absolutely nothing wrong with the way they were before?
If something works good , is dependable, easy to make plus it is Affordable for the customer to fix if it breaks ...Why change it?
Start/Stop not working sounds like a plus! (can't stand that feature)
Yup!
That was the first thing I upgraded the day I bought mine. Bypassed for life. Don't need it, don't want it.
Good information. I know that they started battery charging algorithms in 2008 on my 08 fx4 when first starting the engine after a cold soak the charging voltage will be 14v or above depending on the ambient temperature and remain so fo that drive cycle but if you restart the engine the voltage will be reduced to around 13.5 or so until another cold soak cycle. Interrupting the data link to the internal voltage regulator will default the voltage to 14.5 but the battery light will indicate a fault. This is pretty annoying as short trips with high electrical loads keeps the battery at a lower state of charge greatly reducing battery life. I can get almost 4 years out of a battery with the feedback lines interrupted or 1 to 2 years in with the computer controlling the voltage. I wish I could modify that algorithm. I think this was done in a attempt to improve fuel milage unfortunately with the prices of quality batteries the savings are negabiable. The system has evolved greatly but I see it is still giving us problems.
Great video! I was thinking something was wrong with my 2021 truck. Now it all makes sense to me. My battery has been dropping in voltage because I’ve been off work for a few weeks. My normal commute is 2 hrs of driving and while working, I had zero issues with the battery. I can’t thank you enough for these videos!!
Bingo on the battery slowly going flat. I found the start stop function no longer working was the first signal things were at the quitting. My truck is a secondary vehicle and is not a daily driver, thus causing the problem. I now use a battery tender that I hook up each time I park the truck and now all is well. Figured this out after no help from the dealer.
Back in April of 2015, I ordered a new 2016 Lincoln MKX. The battery in that vehicle lasted about a year and a half. At that time, I was told by the dealer “Lincoln said you’d get a battery, but not how good it would be.” They also said if you weigh the OEM factory battery against it’s Motorcraft service replacement you’ll find that the replacement weights considerably more. In April I ordered a new 2019 Nautilus and that battery lasted about two years. I knew that something was up because the auto start/stop was intermittent and the power port that powered my dashcam would shut down immediately when I shut off the vehicle. Now here’s something funny with the ’19 Nautilus, after so many minutes the BMS turns off everything in the vehicle (even if you in the vehicle) with the exception of the power seats. Go figure.
I have a 1986 Lincoln Mark VII that I purchased new. That car doesn’t get much use these days and so I disconnect the battery. I put it on the trickle charger (battery saver) about two to three times a year.
That battery is now ten and a half year old, installed in June 2012. AND yes it’s a Motorcraft battery.
Yep, we've got an '86 Grand Marquis, 294k miles on the ORIGINAL fuel pump and driveline front to back! Anyway, battery just croaked this summer. 9 years, 8 months!
@@SmittySmithsonite We have come so far, right? OMgoodness a truck or car should be able to make weeks after weeks of trips without having to charge the battery IMHO. Best to all.
I do a very similar drive for work. I put a battery maintainer, hard wired on the battery. Every Few nights I plug it with cord poked through the grill. Put a note on the instrument cluster to unplug the car.
Thank you for all your work on this channel!!
Just a correction. It has not been a trouble free truck. obviously by the need of this video. 😉
How often on your 8 mile commute do you stop and and engine turn itself off?
What a shame that a vehicle with only 22,000 miles is having this problem. This is all the more reason why we are keeping our old Subaru, and I am honestly thinking about purchasing a late 60's - early 70s car or truck. I'm pretty darn good with vehicle diagnostics and repairs but this is just getting out of hand. Even the dealers are often stumped when there is some quirky electrical issue and often don't make the proper repairs the first time, or simply dont have time to service the vehicle. My wife only uses her car for only 10 minutes or so and we've never had this problem. In addition, should the battery reach its useful end, I can always run over to Walmart, change it in the parking lot, get a new one for around a hundred dollars (compared to these new style absorbed membrane type batteries), Turn in the old one for a small rebate, and be on my way for another 5 years at least.
Informative. Have delt with vehicles losing convenience functions like auto unlock on approach due to state of charge. Also had vehicles shut down in battery saver mode while trying to diagnose them even with a battery charger on, now I know why.
My Autel Reset tool offer Ford BMS . I never knew why till recently. I would only reset the European cars. Ford Boss and you have been a lot of help. I like BMS, I have noticed car battery do last longer with this set up also.
I like BMS too! World’s fastest half mile, Bristol Motor Speedway.
Because they cost alot more !!!
This seems great video to ensure the BMS knows what is happening when you are siting still, charging, key on, and looking at readings thru Forscan about the battery / BMS. It seems also that if you just connect a charger to the + and -- posts, conventionally charge the battery, disconnect the charger, then drive the truck, the BMS will see the battery states (volts and amps) and get an accurate read. I have a smart trickle charger thusly connected on my Ranger and the BMS does not seem at all confused. The BMS did tell me thru the Ford Pass App on my iPhone, that the truck was in Deep Sleep mode, which I stupidly ignored. For a week. Then I tried to start the truck to find it completely dead. I had to use a dumb 2 amp trickle charger to get the voltage up hi enough to then get a smart charger to charge the battery. Then reset the BMS (PITA). Now that the battery is fully charged, I keep it plugged into the smart 1.5 amp charger whenever it is parked. So all the electric that is on when the truck is off and stored, cannot drain the battery dead again.
This is nothing more than piss poor engineering; the electrical generation system should be able to provide for use loads as well as maintain the battery(ies) no matter the use time window. With pwm/variable freq gen systems being in use for ages now this can be achieved with minimal impact on fuel efficiency . Also having to place external charging outside the bms (as opposed to battery direct) indicates the state of charge is estimated based on current in/ out and temp vs an actual state of charge . A capacitance test prior to starting at power up would be Ideal as an added bit of info for the system to optimize the operation, the system could also have a learned algorithm to aid in its operation. Tsk Tsk Tsk ford engineers . Great video as always !
I've been doing it wrong all along. Gonna put my charger on my 2013 F150 FX4 Ecoboost and see how this turns out. THANK YOU Brian!
It looks like you need to add a permanent connection for a battery tender.
Have it stick out from underneath the hood near the headlight and plug it in when not in use.
Geeze and I thought I would just need a battery tender on my 40 yr. old tractor !!!
Wow. Excellent. Very informative video. I do have a question. What is your advice if you are going on vacation and leaving the truck in your driveway. Is it best to hook up a Battery Maintainer while you are gone?
My "69 Dart had none of these problems.
Your ‘69 Dodge was a PITA to start on a cold winter morning.
@@cwqrpportable Nah, just pump the gas pedal a few times and the power delivery was noticeable due to the cold air.
I don't know that we need that many and much computers but it is cool that it knows its real low and not wasting that power personally when I can I turn off headlights that stay on when you turn them off it's most likely going to shorten the lif of your battery
And that's pretty shitty that they do all that technology but can't recognize that you have charged the battery
Great video, I have a 21 as well. Last time in for service they kept it a little longer than usual, when I read what they did, “battery abnormally low, recharged”.
Now I see why.😂
I have a 2019 f 150 platinum. The auto start/stop stopped working. By watching this video I now realize two things. One the battery was going. Two I don't drive very far everyday and that effects the battery more than I knew. Replaced the battery
For short trips i always have my A/C on so the alternator outputs its highest voltage to keep the battery top off and its less likely to trigger the auto start stop and also keep the car locked to stop the key fob monitoring draining the battery. 5 years still on original battery.
Another great video Brian. Thank you! I have a 22PB and I installed a battery tender for times like now where I’m away for work and truck is parked for a month or so in the garage not being used just to help keep it topped off.
I tell all of my customers to do that. Very few take me seriously until they have a failure
So is putting a battery tender on (nightly) the bottom line?
@@5GNV well I would think either that or just checking your SOC maybe once a week and develop a pattern of how much it degrades. So you know when to charge it. For me I live somewhat rural so I usually drive enough for it to charge back up and I use remote start to warm and cool it off so there’s that amount of time. I guess it would all depend on how much it’s driven.
@@5GNV
No. Battery tenders are for when you don't drive the vehicle enough to keep the battery charged. I drive my car about once a month or sometimes once ever 2 months. I leave the battery tender on all the time. It's a modern one that only activates when the battery is low.
If you drive often but not long enough to keep the battery charged, then use the battery charger/tender as needed.
Any issues with the hybrid system and the tender? I drive the truck on the weekends and usually short trips so it drains pretty quickly and always tells me it’s in deep sleep mode.
Just curious if you have had any problems, and also if that message goes away once the truck gets a full charge in it and stays that way.
Found your video and explains why my battery acts dead but then immediately charges when charger is on it. My Battery management plug was broke and I didn't even know. I am replacing it at $80 instead of $290 for a new battery, my Oreilly store told me my battery was bad and my alternator was drawing to many amps. It was simply the plug on my management system on negative terminal.
O'Reilly's will sell a lot of batteries, because of this.
O Rileys said the next time I ask to replace the battery ,they will have to give me my money back.
Starters next !! and they are NOT! cheap !
This is way I put an auto stop eliminator on my truck. The stop/start puts a beating on the battery.
I'd be happy to lose the auto start/stop. That is the first thing I do I. The morning, push that button on my 21 f150 to keep it running.
Very good informative video. My mechanic said all the start/stop system is good for is for Ford to sell more batteries and starters?
system actually COUNTS the number of start stop activations. tells you to CHANGE the starter and or battery.
So crazy how much load is needed to run all the garbage on new cars
Brian what are your thoughts on these newer style smart chargers that have the battery recondition option? I’ve had great luck with them bringing batteries back to life, but curious what the bms system makes of it.
I have had good luck with them also we had one at the dealer.
My typical daily driving is only three and a half miles to and from work. Have had the same issue, almost seems like it has the effect of degrading the gas mileage when the battery is low... I get 19-20 mpg for a few days after an hour long highway drive on the weekends.
Is the answer, bottom line, to put a battery maintainer on it? Nightly or weekly?
Hi Brian love your videos! I drive 20mins to go anywhere in my 21 F150. around 17,000 miles I was getting the messages. According to social Media, Many 21 F150 owners are getting the message. I checked Battery resting voltage it was 12.2. Tried battery resuscitation. I lost my patience. I installed a NEW AGM H7 Die Hard Battery. Resting Voltage was 12.7. now At 30,000miles, No problems since.
Brian, I will be curious if you need to keep charging the battery. -Lou
ones again thank you for your information for free you have helped me learn so much more than a tech school ever did. but a warning for some toyotas you have to go straight to the battery for charging if you try to grab a ground from the body you can burn up a fuseable link on the negative side.
Thanks! Learned something new How about a battery maintainer for people who do short trips?
Sounds like probably not enough AMP input to help?
Yup, those would be a good idea as long as you hook them up correctly as shown.
Excellent timing, I've been dealing with the system off to save battery for awhile now. Excellent explanation on it 👍
The only question is how does Toyota not have all this sh.. on their trucks and you never here of any issues with them. Just like all the different coolants. Finally they copy the Japanese and get it right now. Do the same with the charging system. Just copy Toyota… but that will mean no service $s.
The truck I drive at work has auto start stop I had to unplug it, it drove me insane I couldn’t stand it
Had that kind of problem with my old chevy 4wd that spends a lot of time idling at night in the snow , lights on , heater fan and cooling fan on and sometimes the winch. So I just put a smaller diameter pulley on the alternator so it would spin a little faster problem solved. Who knows what trouble that would cause on a new computer controlled rig .
If you are down to 9% SoC, you are already damaging the battery on any lead acid battery (AGM is just another method of making a lead acid battery) and battery life will be degraded. Anything below 50% SoC and damage is starting to occur, the lower you go the more damage that is caused. A LIPO battery you can go down to these low SoC without damaging, but they run into challenges in freezing temps.
It's crazy that a 240A alternator (XL & XLT are only 200A) cannot keep up with the demand and causes a low SoC which will lead to premature battery failure.
I believe it's the software being very conservative on the SOC. Battery voltage was above 12.5 at the start of the video, so the battery wasn't truly at a 9% SOC.
I believe the system is trying to protect the battery as much as possible, to keep it from dropping below what is likely a 50% true SOC at the battery itself. If it was truly dead he'd be in the low 11 volt range, with a true 0% being what, like 10.8 of the top of my head?
@@volvo09 I think you might be right about what the system is doing. Was forgetting the voltage drop with depth of discharge at the alleged SoC.
I still have a hard time understanding why the alternator is not keeping the battery charged just because it is a short drive. It's a 240A alt, and the battery can obviously take at least 40a since the external charger was pushing that. Everything should be supported by the alt when the engine is on, so there must be some idle time where the auto stop/start engages and all the accessories are running off battery drawing it down.
Or, maybe the system is thinking at 50% the battery is no longer viable, but the charging profile is programmed in line with that so it is not charging at the rate it should be, or something along those line.
@@wisconsineaglesfan7925 someone commented earlier that it's setup for fuel efficiency, when you are coasting and when stopping the charge rate goes more positive (trying to use more waste energy to drive the inefficient alternator). He said he had to inform a few customers on it who had noticed low voltage on an aftermarket voltage gauge who were seeing it randomly going up - sort of mimicking a failing alternator in a car "of the past".
I had a slight introduction to that in my 09 Honda, at light load it only outputs 13.8v, and will jump to 14.2 when demand is high. Looks like these new cars play around with the voltage a LOT!
Wonder what the owners manual says about it... I saw a note in a 22 Honda manual saying the vehicle needs to be driven at least one 30mi trip per month to keep from ruining the battery, and lack of use is not covered under warranty.
Would be interesting to see a datalog of more of those battery pid's while driving. Wish I had access to the ford hardware and software. There is sooo much data in these new cars, they have advanced in ways that has everyone relearning what they knew!
@@volvo09 Forscan and a cheap OBD adapter (Brian has one linked in the video description) is a wonderful toolkit. This will get you just about all the same data from Ford's own official IDS software including a lot of dealer only functions for resetting/relearning/etc various modules.
@@Vchat20 I'll have to check it out. I was curious about forscan... That will probably get me to jump in and learn. I thought it was really only a configuration utility, but if it can access data pid's that's great!
It’s getting to the point I just want to get an older vehicle and just maintain the crap out of it .
Best reason to have remote start when you have short drives. Fire it up and let it run and warm up for 10-15 while you get ready to leave charges the battery and melts the snow and ice.
We do that at the dealership for the lot cars.
Wastes gas.