Good to hear, my 2010 f150 just started this a month ago. Cleaned the throttle body and was looking at common issues and plan on changing this part out. It seemed like the throttle fixed it but it did it today leaving the gas station.
@@johnnyarnett4904 Nope it was not temperature related at all. It was very infrequent but always on a deceleration to a stop. Glad the purge valve fix it. Cheers
Thank you. My 2006 F150 4.6 was stalling at stop lights. Thank goodness the dealer didn't have time to look at the truck. Decided to search you tube and found you. Replaced the Vapor Canister purge valve and the truck runs great. Thanks Steve, if ever in the San Diego area look me up and I'll buy you lunch.
Hey bro! Im having the same problem! Did your fuel pump kick on or not? I just changed my fuel pump driver module and still no luck. I'll try changing the purge valve put before I do I need to know if you heard the pump or not before changing this valve! I've watched 1874328 videos and not one mentioned fuel pump kicking on or not!!! Wtf
This is all about stalling after starting caused by a faulty purge valve not a faulty fuel pump or fuel related . If your fuel pump is not turning on that's a totally different problem.
We have had our 2013 F150 in the shop for a week. It would not start, not even turn over just a small click. We found a couple of videos with this same problem. But with our truck in the shop, it would not not start. So we had them replace the purge valve & then it wouldn’t start. They finally found that connections at the body control module, PCM relay was bad. So fingers crossed the replacement of both these will fix the problem.
Wonder if it could be the fuel pump driver module.... just winging it, so it might well not be, shrug... Hadn't ever heard of that, until I started searching RUclips, shrug...
Seems like it’s the relay mmm looks like I’m going grocery shopping at the junk yard maybe a few computers and most definitely grabbing some Relays and coil packs 😂
Great vid Steve but it begs the question... out of all the techs at Ford, none of them could figure it out? I guess they're trained to follow a certain test pattern and see if anything comes up.... it's great that one of your subs figured it out, amazing in fact!
I have a 2010 F150 that was experiencing stalling and a ton of O2 sensor codes, mine would act up more frequently right after filling up. Rolled the dice ordered the vapor purge valve. Haven't had a single issue since. 3 fill-ups no issues. Thanks for posting this video I would have never looked at this! I felt like I was driving an old Dodge with vapor lock....
I would suggest that in every video, as you never know when you have a new watcher, you provide a couple details on your F-150. Examples: year plus engine size.
Good advice Paul as I always do provide the details unless I forget :) . As for this video it's part 2 so on part one is where all the details are provided. Cheers Paul
Had this problem it was very costly in 2 different shops for 2weeks -1 month, it ended up being mas air flow sensor. I ended figuring it out . Sometimes shops over look the small . I hope this was the problem, so far 3 weeks now the truck hasn’t stalled!!
Had Ford stalling issue. Spent 3 weeks and @$1000 at the dealers and we could not find the issue. In the end I solved it by changing my coolant. Old, weak coolant causes the cooling system to become a battery and the current throws off the ecu into a lean condition causing misfires and stalling at idle. No scanner detected this and the Ford garage still doesn't believe it. Just finished a 2500 mile test run with no stalling. Items I did address before the coolant: Replaced trans speed sensor Replaced ecu Replaced air filter Replaced fuel filter Replaced spark plugs Cleaned MAS Cleaned throttle bodies Cleaned IAC valve All vacuum hosed checked Issue was still there. Changed coolant, issue gone and has not come back.
@@SteveRobReviews Yep, liked what you said about sharing info through these videos. The interesting issue is that it does not throw a code so you have to look for it. I saw this over 20 years back on a Chevy Celebrity. The mechanic tried everything he could to get my mother in laws car running. The last thing he did was check the coolant and it was throwing some serious voltage. Changed it and everything worked. In my case the Ford scan did show I had electrical issues so after I checked all the easy stuff I went back to how do you get electrical interference? Thank you again for posting your videos to help people!
Omg why didn't I see this comment weeks ago!!! I just bought a coolant sensor. Crossing my fingers. I will let u know how it goes. I also cleaned throttle body, new throttle position sensor, also had a naked wire going to my coils so spliced and out new wire cover connector on that one coil. Checked all fuses, fuel pump is fine. Cleaned MAF sensor. I was literally about to get a trans speed sensor right before I read your comment! So thank God because I knew it was something electrical shorting out or throwing off my power that goes to the pcm. Someone told me that I probably fix the problem but that I would have to get my PCM flashed. Even though that isn't all that much money it's a huge inconvenience for me. being that I'm a female people think I don't know what I'm doing but I obviously do consider and I just went down the list exactly what you did is what I did first except I was about to get the trans speed sensor. but the only reason I was going to get that before the coolant sensor was because I have a driveway that's very muddy and throws up a lot of mud and I figured maybe I hit something and got the sensor damage or loose so wasn't sure. Here I go 🤪
@@lindseywagner7510 If you need an ecu I now have a known good spare . Hope you get it sorted. Changing my coolant was the last thing I did and that took care of it.
oh and mine also didnt throw a code... until the point where I broke down. I had to have the actual OBD2 plugged in for the code to ever read. So you have to have it plugged in when you break down for it to read any code. And as soon as you turn off the car the codes gone. it's something I've never seen before but it actually does not read a code if you plug it in after you take your trip but it does read a code if you have obd2 plugged in when it actually stalls out. and the reason I actually have my plugged and was because I was doing the live data trying to look at my CAT, fuel, open loop and close loop and all that and see what it read and if I was sparking normal, if the maf was reading normal. So yeah definitely weird that this issue doesn't throw a code. What I find so funny is how you will realize that the mechanics don't know a lot about vehicles like u think they would considering when you bring it in and they dont know s*** about your 99 Ford f150 and I've even had newer cars they don't know anything about crap they have to troubleshoot it the same way we are right now like watching videos, and going on threads and investigating the situation. That's exactly how they do it too so don't waste your money. once again if it throws a code and it's something simple than yet they can figure that out but it's something like this that you have to investigate just do it yourself. Unless of course you have plenty of money and no time to spare but be prepared for your vehicle to sit there for minimum two days being troubleshooted and investigated so really your not saving time because you still have to take your car and rent a vehicle and then pick up your car and return rented vehicle. So yeah I would rather figure it out on my own. Besides I learn a lot through the process.
Another thing to check is to see if the 20 amp fuse #27 in the under hood fuse box has been relocated to #70. This fuse powers the injectors and has melted in half on my truck.
My 2017 king ranch 5.0l was stalling at idle after filling gas tank, $38 evap purge valve from auto zone fixed issue. Diaphragm had pinhole and couldn’t hold vacuum. Thanks for video, very helpful
Paul may just have something there about the blends since you say the problem only shows up around 8 or 9 months. Different fuel blends between that far apart. Hope it works out that it's the purge valve and keeping fingers crossed for you.
+stuzman Paul is sharp as a tack and its a logical explanation but not one I can do anything with. I don't like to bug guys on youtube but Paul dosent mind me asking and hes more than likely right. Let see in 2018 how it goes as this is a commonly mentioned fix as well.
That's crazy that an employee discount couldn't beat that price. I would have never guessed. Hopefully that part gets it done for you. It's such an annoying issue to have the vehicle dying. Cheers Steve!
Hi Steve - I got the exact problem 2019 F150 Coyote V8. It’s going into dealer today for warranty about this issue. 16 fuel injectors, 8 upper 8 lower ( gotta remove intake man) 3 lowers (1000psi )they are replacing. All 8 uppers (60psi) perfect. One or 2 lower fuel injectors have a drip.
ScannerDanner suggested it could be a seasonal fuel change fault that is seen to affect the trucks but just to see if this part fixes it as its on the list as common fixes as well. If it stalls again I will do a mention. Cheers
I am back Steve, I noticed the truck stalls, stops my fORD 1990 F 140 4.9 because the battery gets too hot. I mentioned it to the guys and one said 'thats a common problem with those trucks because the ignition coil too close to the motor. Another mentioned the it was the ignition part that is close to the battery. I will start with the first and see what happens. Imention this so it may be of help to someone else.
@@reefjunkie9018 First thing I would do that is so easy is clean your throttle body , takes 5 minutes and it will instantly show a result or not if your minimum air is being plugged with deposits.
I had thought before that it might be fuel related, Your last said something about left turn so I was thinking that fuel was shifting in the tank & getting pushed back into the EVAP system so that's why I asked about fuel level. I do recall a video (might have been Scanner Danner or maybe SMA) that they mention a common EVAP problem due to the change in fuel blend. I hope that fixes your problem.
I have this problem but it’s EVERYDAY. it stalls on me at red lights, stop signs and when I’m turning into parking lots every single day. The truck will beep and the oil gauge will drop... I hope this part fixes it.
My son has a 1990 F-150 302 E.F.I that has the same problem. I was helping him fix it and noticed there was some vacuum lines plugged with bolts and I believe the purge valve removed. We have 2 canisters one of them completely disconnected. Would you have a picture,diagram or video so we can see what's missing? I'm currently looking for a local vehicle to compare...Thanks
Dave I have done exactly what you want to do . I went to my Ford dealer and they were more than happy to print off a ford diagram showing all the parts and routings. If you go to Fords online parts web page they have the exact same diagrams if your is available for that year. Give that a try.
2008 expedition XLT will start up just fine and once it heat up half way it will begin to have a slight knocking sound and shakes…. It also shakes and stalls at a stop….any information will be helpful ❤️
Hope that fixes it. I never thought of the gas being different between seasons. Weird. Rock Auto, even though they charge shipping, can't be beat for OEM type repairs. I'm starting to collect the car magnets on the shop fridge!
Their prices are better including a 30 % exchange rate and shipping a lot more and still cheaper than everyplace else. They have ethanol sensors testing the fuel and altering calibrating so yes fuel can play into it but so far so good and time will tell. Cheers
since it started the 2nd day ya had it,I was thinking loose connection, wire. hopefully you do have a stubborn purge valve. sucks learning the hard way. this is like a good movie now, who did it
🎉 I drive a 1995 Ford F150 6 cylinder. The other day I was driving in town and it stopped very quickly. I let it sit for a few minutes it started right back up again. I thought it might be the gas but it didn't seem to be the obstacle. I tried it again on a cooler day. Got almost to where I was going and it did it again. The power steering on the truck seems like it was hard to turn. Single single elderly female here in Oklahoma cannot afford a mechanic and them looking and searching for shade tree mechanic. Any thoughts on this
I had this issue but had no codes come up. What the problem on mine was a loose wire was rubbing on a pulley. I think it was a speed sensor wire. I zip tied it out of the way and have had no problem since
Here's a new twist into stalling when stopping or slowing to turn with a 2000 Explorer 5.0. At first I thought it was water in the tank that moved over the pump intake strainer and plugged it whenever slowing or stopping since if I jacked up the rear end the car would die. Dropped the tank and found the fuel pump / sending assembly totally broken loose from the mounting plate. The plastic baffle / gas reservoir that is supposed to be attached to the bottom of the tank had broken loose and over time it apparently broke the pump assembly as the gas pushed it back and forth during stopping and starting off. The resulting mess had the strainer sticking up so that when stopping the gas moved away from it. The daughter said the fuel gauge had quit working a few weeks ago then it started stalling at stops.
It matches up exactly with the same part number as from Ford but that's an interesting point - I'm not sure now because there was a bunch of previous numbers too. Hum my friend is a parts manager at Ford I'll ask that question. That may make a difference. Thanks
2007 F150 4.6 liter. never has stalling issues before. i replaced the manifolds and EGR Valve because of rust issues. and exhaust fumes. no spudder truck runs good....But now the truck is stalling at a stop light. intermittent. usually after been used for more than 10 min. Any one with similar issues. Getting a EGR code 0401 code anything else to replace.....??
Yes it has and I will do a follow up in the future when it gets to one year. Im sure its the resolve because it would have stalled by now. That was a hard one to figure out. Cheers Mika
My friends discount Ford discount was still more expensive - it's like amazon I guess they must buy parts by the box car to sell them so cheap compared to everyone else.
Hello everyone I have a 96 f150 5.0 if it’s any wormer than 80 the truck will not start right away and after driving no more than 5 mile it’s stalls but it’s not over heating I am not able to Figure it out any ideas
I hope it works. Been down that road before.My old nissan truck gave me a fit for 23 years before i fixed it.All it needed was a wire tie problem salved.
Paul suggested it could be fuel related between summer and winter blends. Seems a logical idea since he sees this more than I. The purge valve is a long shot in my mind trying to think if it could stick and stall out the truck on a decel or just make it run rich. A bit above my pay grade so this is the next logical cheapest fix I can come up with that has been suggested as a common fix by some . I will report back the first time it stalls again or doesn't in 2018 . Reply ·
I have a 03 F150 and it stalls when stopped and will not go. I have to hold gas until it eventually takes off. Not sure if this can fix that problem. Just changed filter and fluid.
Ramon this condition never flooded it with so much fuel not to restart . Your condition I would concentrate on the throttle body and the first thing is clean it and go from there.
My 2003 Ford F150 started doing this intermittently back in October. It will go 2 or 3 weeks without it happening but then it will do it twice in one day. Sometimes it sputters but doesn't die. Ever since it started happening it idles a tiny bit on the rough side. It runs great and feels fine when driving. Hopefully, a purge valve will fix it.
I hope this is what causes your problem Steve. Some times you never find out what the problem is. I may have told you this story so if I have I’m sorry for repeating it again. So my Paw Paw bought a new 1969 Ford Limited (I believe that’s what it was). The thing squeaked over by the passenger side, like plastic rubbing together. He took it back and forth to the Dealership to see if they could find it....nope, no can do. So Paw Paw got some cardboard and folded it into and put it where he thought it was coming from. It took him a couple of attempts but finally he found the right place. No one could find it but Paw Paw had had enough and he finally found the right place and that thing never squeaked again! I guess where there is a will there is a way, lol. Good luck Steve!
Found a similar problem with a 2010 E350 I'm working on replace canister purge valve and still had the same problem It only stalls when you're coasting up to a stop sign or a corner and then go through it turn the wheel and it'll stall. Foot on the gas or taking off from a stop sign or a stoplight all the power in the world no hesitation no dropping cylinders or stumbling goes through the RPM power band just fine it's only coasting to a stop and then turning.
@@SteveRobReviews It didn't with mine but a very quick update called a good friend of mine whose had this problem before and sure enough it was something very simple and stupid. So on the vans that have that canister style air filter... The mass air flow sensor wiring harness goes through the side of it before it plugs into the MAF itself. Around the wiring harness is a rubber puck which seals up the air gap behind the mass airflow sensor where the wiring harness comes through the plastic casing. It often times likes to work itself free and sometimes the wiring harness itself going through the center of that rubber puck creates an air gap. You wouldn't think that would be enough but he suggested sealing it up with some silicone... Sure enough idling problems solved. I've always known that Ford mass air flow sensors are very sensitive I've known people who've put cold air intakes on their f-150s and f250s and get lean codes. But an air leak just about the size of a half a dime was causing the issue
Did it work?? I have an 05 f150 and it just started doing this to me. And it was 90 degrees all summer until about 3 days ago up here in Minnesota, it’s been in the 40’s the last 3 days. It’s only happened twice. But mine doesn’t run that great to begin with.
I have a 2007 ford expedition and same thing drives well til u get to a stop and it wants to act like its going to stall idk what it is any info for me will help plz?
I have a 1998 Expedition, 5.4 v8 triton. Recently I started loosing power while driving to the point that it would shut off. Turns out it was the cat that was clogged so I got it replaced. It fixed the problem but now when I turn on my truck it idles and shuts off if I do not give it gas. It does the same thing while on drive as I stop.
Good job boss. I have a f150 ford 5.4 I put a new fuel pump and new fuel filter new battery and new Crank sensor and cam sensor no fule mod on it I can't find what the problem is. Would you now
Mine has stalled just a couple times normally when off-road in low range four wheel drive idling down a hill. Today it's stalled or almost stalled while turning into a parking space at extremely slow speed so I'm going to have to look into this.
I have a 2011 f-150 5.0 it stalls out and then say low oil pressure when i come to a stop or real slow speeds. It has acceleration issues also excpecially at low speeds. I am able to start it right back up though after it stalls out
Hello, my Ford 1990 F150 4.9 L stalls on reverse after driving for a while, it did right in the middle of the parking lot, could not re-start the truck, then fr some reason I did not have my cables nor anybody else to have given me a jump. After about 30 minutes I decided to start it AND IT DID START!! And I got back home. It did again after a month, and this time as I lifted the hood, I noticed a bit of fluid had come out of a couple of Battery cells, I suspected it overheats. After 20 minutes I tried to start it and it started, went back home. So now the question is.....What is causing this overheating? I checked it for shorts, but I found none, what do I need to check and fix? Thanks a lot for the advice.
Time to start diagnosing with a good tech. You have multiple conditions impossible to diagnose at my end . Might be best to get a local tech take a look.
I have a 2015 Ford F150 5.0 I read on another video. That the fuel pump drive module can go bad causing the truck to stall out occasionally and idle up and down and shut off. The dealer can't figure it out. Say the vcts and phasers are good. Do you think worth it's a shot to replace? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Dont think you have a fuel pump drive module on the frame under the box at the rear , yes that was a problem . Mine the dealer could not fix either but the evap purge valve under the hood fixed it for good . Ya for $60 its worth a shot.
@@SteveRobReviews I replaced that already no change. I'll try this module I located above the spare tire rack. Can't believe these technicians can't figure it out. Apparently this is a common problem with the 5.0s idle and stall issue. It's less prevalent when it's cold outside too. So annoying only has a 110k on it and really not interested in trading it in lol.
So it stored some codes and after the technician messed with it. It ended up being the vct sensors on my passenger side 2,000 miles since repair no more erratic idling or dying out so we'll see if the problem comes back..
Circling back. is 3 months long enough to know if it's a FIX? Hope so! How about a "It's Fixed" short video when it's been determined that your Good to Go! Thanks
@Steve Rob Reviews, Hi there again, wondering if over the course of the past year if it's your opinion that the repair is a success or not. I'm curious and seeking "closure" :) Keep making great content!!
My 2001 f250 5.4 and my 2010 f150 4.6 both have this stalling problem. I’ve changed all the plugs and coil packs on the 250 which still didn’t keep it from idling really high. My local mechanic tinkered with the throttle pos sensor which stopped it but now it idles really low and stalls at slow speeds and my mpg dropped from about 12 to 8. My 150 stalls at slow speeds as well but not nearly as much as it did before I replaced the upstream o2 sensors. There’s no codes or info at all when diagnostics are hooked up. I’m reluctant to change out the downstream o2 sensors because they’re $100 and might not be the problem. But both tritons are doing the same thing. I’ve checked the grounds as well for corrosion and all appear ok. I’m thinking it’s an air related issue or pcm. Any help appreciated!!!!
@WestTNReb343 Are you using a factory capable scan tool or generic code reader as an upper level scan tool shows so much more data. Understand how to read the data from a scan tool , that is a must know on how to figure it all out. Looking at data while its stalling will reveal the direction to most faults. Guessing can get expensive, so I'd start with the basics and verify your throttle body is clean and your O2 sensor data as well as MAF sensor readings are within range. There's a start that's not costly and actually fun to investigate, as well as learning how the scan tool data can show the out of range data displayed. It's totally fixable. If you want to learn how to figure our diagnostic I'd recommend a buddies channel . Check out Paul's channel he's an automotive instructor. "SCANNERDANNER"
I got a 2010 Lariat 5.4. It would stall 2 or 3 times in a 10-mile city trip every now and then. Never threw a code. Easy restart. Sometimes right after a fill-up it would struggle at start up. Replaced this can and all is well. Thanks.
Someone help me please. My ford f150 5.0 will start up and I can drive to the corner and then it acts like it's starving for gas and WILL die but it WILL start right back up everytime and do the same thing. Help me please
Amen to sharing information and Steve Rob does a good job of that. ScannerDanner is where I got some of the info I shared with you. He's a great guy and he likes to find the problem or recreate the problem. Your problem is a little hard to diagnose as it happens once a year. Say your not on Santa's naughty list are ya? Excellent suggestion by Paul because the gas is blended with more light ends to make starting easier in the colder weather. So much so that back when the majority of cars had carbs the engines would run leaner with this mixture. With the O2 sensors and computers in todays cars the computer just compensates for the leaner gas mixture by allowing more fuel so that the air to fuel ratio remains the same. Hope he fixed problem four4 ya and I'll see ya round Christmas to find out.
the 5.4engines, 4.6 too. they are throw away engines. they say use 5-20w. it is too thin for worn engines, such as over 100,000 miles. the engines get worn and the hot oil pressure coming to a stop drops so low it is below the computer engine cut off pressure and the engine stalls. restart give the pressure switch a jolt of higher pressure and the computer allow the engine to start. it happens with mine. i put heavier oil in it and lucas oil stabilizer and it seems to have done the trick. the oil pressure guage in the ford trucks is fake other than off and on for the computer. all those other fixes won't correct low oil pressure at high temperatures
@@jmyers9853 thanks for the prompt response. I got mine a few weeks ago and I observed the aggressive jerk caused by the vct solenoid. Changed the oil to the recommended 0w-20. I will be replacing the vct solenoid and the cam shaft position sensors this weekend, then change the oil to 10w-30. I also observed my full tank doesn't do more than 200miles as against the 585miles it shows when fueling up
I have a 95 F150 300. Engine drops oil pressure and sounds like it wants to stall when coming to a stops. If I switch to neutral, oil pressure comes back to normal and sounds fine. Oil pressure and engine runs fine while driving. Any ideas??
David oil pressure is conditional to rpm so low rpm = low oil pressure as you noticed when it wants to stall. So many things could cause this but I'd make sure the basics are sound . Throttle body is clean , idle air control solenoid is working correctly and no noticable vaccum leaks .
'14 F150 5.0 Coyote is stalling at stops while it's warming up. Once warmed up it idles sort of ok at stops but doesn't stall. Also if you try to quickly rev the motor in park it will bog before the rpms come up. Part is cheap enough, nothing to lose.
Well it fixed my issue completely. Cold start idles at 1200 rpm when it would normally bounce 800 to 1000. Rock solid at 600 rpm stopped in drive. Couldn’t be happier. Part store said they sell 2 of them a week. Great video! Subscribed.
Yes exactly so most would look at fuel pressure and idle air control. Looking at fuel trims tells a lot if you have a scan tool. Stalls are all fixable.
@@SteveRobReviews Disconnecting the IAC valve drops the idle and throws the relevant DTC, so it's not that. I've ordered a fuel pressure gauge and injector tester (Temu, ~AUD50 for both) as I THOUGHT I had a stuck injector(s) due to large negative fuel trims on one bank, but I think I misread my cheap-ish V519 scan tool. Will test "leak down" anyway 🤦♂️
Well, that's about the only thing I didn't guess, lol. You've figured out how to keep me around another year. Better than a give away. The unknown cliff hangar. LOL :)
Haha always nice to see ya buddy. I'm wondering if you think it is plausible to have the valve stick open on a decel and cause a stall or are you thinking like me it would only run rich and cause a rough idle . I'm not sure on this one at all but so many say it one of the fixes.
Did u even say what the part was you bought??? I thought you were going to do actual work? All you did is talk & I dont think I ever heard you say what part you even bought to fix it???
Motorcraft Canister Purge Valve. I've read where you can check it by unplugging the electrical connector and the vacuum hose and with the truck running it shouldn't be pulling any vacuum, check it with your finger. It is located up front/top behind the throttle body.
+Ozzstar I hope so too but if not I'm calling you the first time it stalls again and we can both put our heads together and deside who to ask for more help.😅
Mine will stall if I rev it up then let off the throttle, as well as when coming to a stop. Will update my comment when I try this fix. Mine is 2004, so it has an Idle Air Control valve, but I don't think that's the issue
I blocked off the tube from the purge valve at the manifold, but no change. I tested the purge valve by applying vacuum to the little vacuum port. It leaks a little, but no flow when sucking on the larger vacuum port (you still get some flow if you blow hard enough through the fuel tank port). Applying 12.5V (approx. 0.35A) to the solenoid blocks the flow through the little vacuum port, which opens the valve, allowing lots of flow through the larger ports.
Fuel pressure measures within spec (60 PSI). The Idle Air Valve is a bit stiff and doesn't return. They are fairly expensive here in AU (AUD249+). Luckily, I found a Proflow LS adaptor (PFE689S or PFE689BK) and an LS Idle Valve. (PFEQTBIAC or PFEQTBIAC-2) is cheap 😀 Adaptor and Valve just over AUD100
My 2005 f150 4.6 stalled when I was coasting to a red light. Started right back up but check engine light was on. Got a scan, several codes....P0401, P0109, P2198, P2196. Where do I start?? Help!!!
Wow where do I start is right is a great question . The codes will give you a clue as to where to start and some codes are a result of the stall. The 401 egr flow is a good start and go from there . If you want to know how to diagnose the 401 check out my buddies channel he has plenty of Ford 401 vids. ScannerDanner , Paul is about the best there is.
My trucks having the exact same issue. At red lights it refuses to go and rattles violently. Check engine light flashed and sometimes restarting my truck fixes it immediately but now I had to wait like 20 minutes for it to cool off. I had a bank 1 sensor 1 running too rich a while ago for the exhaust value but I’ve heard from other sources that it could be something else
I have a 1985 f150 lariat and it would die on me randomly while driving, i changed the tfi module and it turned on but then when i drove it it started stalling bad untill it wouldnt turn back on, now it doesnt turn on even after i changed out the ignition coil
I have an 07 f150 standard that everytime I downshift to stop at a light, the rpms bounces to very very low and dies. I don't have the money to take it to a shop but I'll try to fix it myself. Any idea on what it could be??? I'm lost on this and stressing over how much its going to cost to get it running right. HELP PLEASE!!! 😳😳😳😳
The videos I've seen had Triton on the engines and 5.something engines... mines a 4.2 v6. Is it all basically same on top? The Triton was totally different on top .
you could also try cleaning the MAF using CRC Industries Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner. And if your going to clean the throttle body off the truck..you'll want to do a relearn process. Just google throttle body relearn process for your truck. Just did all this recently.
I have a 1997 f 150 4.2 v6 runs good but it does stall some times I put a new fuel filter it was good for a few days then same crap stalling I've heard the spark plugs come lose on f150 maybe that's the problem because I bought it three years ago first two years ran perfect didn't stall at all.
Wayne if changing the fuel filter fixed it from stalling for a couple of days then maybe you have lots of dirt in your fuel tank. I'm thinking if your truck stalled every day and a new fuel filter fixed it temporarily them maybe its lack of fuel or another plugged filter.
i got 2015 F150 that i cleaned the throttle body and replaced the valve and it still does it. The throttle body was replaced this past july and it stopped doing it for a while and now its back. i get no lights at all . This is really weird problem . How has Ford not been able to fix this . It looks like it happens on every year modal f150. will be the last Ford junk i will get. i guess i will just start replacing parts till it stops doing it.
Any help, I have a stall and hesitation on my 2002 ford f150, only stalls and hesitation in cold mornings. It cranks fine but stalls after a few miles. Cranks right back up and runs fine. If I warm it up and then go, it runs fine
I cleaned it. I took it off. New mass. New IAC. New everything but fuel pump. It still runs great just has to warm up or be warm weather. It stalls but cranks right back up and runs great. I'm gonna try fuel pump. It will be last to try. Everything else is new. All the little things. It doesn't have any issues in the summer. At all
The Purge valve in under the hood and it has a normally closed valve, the vent valve is at the evap canister and they are normally open. The vast majority of the time it is the purge valve and not the vent valve.
It has been over one year and I have not had one stall since replacing the evaporative purge valve found under the hood . Cheers
Good to hear, my 2010 f150 just started this a month ago. Cleaned the throttle body and was looking at common issues and plan on changing this part out. It seemed like the throttle fixed it but it did it today leaving the gas station.
STEVE ROB REVIEWS can you please put up a link to the part. Thanks in advance
James the part is model specific depending on OEM or aftermarket so it's best to search your specific vehicle .
Was it going dead when it got hot like over 95 outside
@@johnnyarnett4904 Nope it was not temperature related at all. It was very infrequent but always on a deceleration to a stop. Glad the purge valve fix it. Cheers
Thank you. My 2006 F150 4.6 was stalling at stop lights. Thank goodness the dealer didn't have time to look at the truck. Decided to search you tube and found you. Replaced the Vapor Canister purge valve and the truck runs great. Thanks Steve, if ever in the San Diego area look me up and I'll buy you lunch.
Awesome bud , so glad to have helped 👍
Hey bro! Im having the same problem! Did your fuel pump kick on or not? I just changed my fuel pump driver module and still no luck. I'll try changing the purge valve put before I do I need to know if you heard the pump or not before changing this valve! I've watched 1874328 videos and not one mentioned fuel pump kicking on or not!!! Wtf
This is all about stalling after starting caused by a faulty purge valve not a faulty fuel pump or fuel related . If your fuel pump is not turning on that's a totally different problem.
We have had our 2013 F150 in the shop for a week. It would not start, not even turn over just a small click. We found a couple of videos with this same problem. But with our truck in the shop, it would not not start. So we had them replace the purge valve & then it wouldn’t start. They finally found that connections at the body control module, PCM relay was bad. So fingers crossed the replacement of both these will fix the problem.
Wonder if it could be the fuel pump driver module.... just winging it, so it might well not be, shrug... Hadn't ever heard of that, until I started searching RUclips, shrug...
Seems like it’s the relay mmm looks like I’m going grocery shopping at the junk yard maybe a few computers and most definitely grabbing some Relays and coil packs 😂
Thanks Steve I have an F-150, 2016 and start stalling. My mechanic doesn’t know about that problem, but thanks to you now I know.
No codes for direction so we look at pattern failures when we experience intermittent faults. Cheers 👍
Great vid Steve but it begs the question... out of all the techs at Ford, none of them could figure it out? I guess they're trained to follow a certain test pattern and see if anything comes up.... it's great that one of your subs figured it out, amazing in fact!
It's tough on a fault so infrequent - lets see if this is the fix. Ok lets hope. Cheers bud
I have a 2010 F150 that was experiencing stalling and a ton of O2 sensor codes, mine would act up more frequently right after filling up. Rolled the dice ordered the vapor purge valve. Haven't had a single issue since. 3 fill-ups no issues. Thanks for posting this video I would have never looked at this! I felt like I was driving an old Dodge with vapor lock....
So nice to see itresolved your stalling , mine has not stalled since . Cheers
I would suggest that in every video, as you never know when you have a new watcher, you provide a couple details on your F-150. Examples: year plus engine size.
Good advice Paul as I always do provide the details unless I forget :) . As for this video it's part 2 so on part one is where all the details are provided. Cheers Paul
@@SteveRobReviews
You know, I feel like an idiot right now. It didn't even register that it was a part two. My bad, sorry.
No problem bud.
Had this problem it was very costly in 2 different shops for 2weeks -1 month, it ended up being mas air flow sensor. I ended figuring it out . Sometimes shops over look the small . I hope this was the problem, so far 3 weeks now the truck hasn’t stalled!!
After 3 weeks I'd say it's most likely fixed 👍
Going to try this…2015 Lariat with 100k miles….starting stalling and rough idle
2004 F150 5.4. Replaced MAF sensor, fuel filter, purge valve and the line to the manifold cuz it was bad. Still stalls at stops
Had Ford stalling issue. Spent 3 weeks and @$1000 at the dealers and we could not find the issue. In the end I solved it by changing my coolant. Old, weak coolant causes the cooling system to become a battery and the current throws off the ecu into a lean condition causing misfires and stalling at idle. No scanner detected this and the Ford garage still doesn't believe it. Just finished a 2500 mile test run with no stalling.
Items I did address before the coolant:
Replaced trans speed sensor
Replaced ecu
Replaced air filter
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced spark plugs
Cleaned MAS
Cleaned throttle bodies
Cleaned IAC valve
All vacuum hosed checked
Issue was still there.
Changed coolant, issue gone and has not come back.
WoW
@@SteveRobReviews Yep, liked what you said about sharing info through these videos. The interesting issue is that it does not throw a code so you have to look for it. I saw this over 20 years back on a Chevy Celebrity. The mechanic tried everything he could to get my mother in laws car running. The last thing he did was check the coolant and it was throwing some serious voltage. Changed it and everything worked. In my case the Ford scan did show I had electrical issues so after I checked all the easy stuff I went back to how do you get electrical interference? Thank you again for posting your videos to help people!
Omg why didn't I see this comment weeks ago!!! I just bought a coolant sensor. Crossing my fingers. I will let u know how it goes. I also cleaned throttle body, new throttle position sensor, also had a naked wire going to my coils so spliced and out new wire cover connector on that one coil. Checked all fuses, fuel pump is fine. Cleaned MAF sensor. I was literally about to get a trans speed sensor right before I read your comment! So thank God because I knew it was something electrical shorting out or throwing off my power that goes to the pcm. Someone told me that I probably fix the problem but that I would have to get my PCM flashed. Even though that isn't all that much money it's a huge inconvenience for me. being that I'm a female people think I don't know what I'm doing but I obviously do consider and I just went down the list exactly what you did is what I did first except I was about to get the trans speed sensor. but the only reason I was going to get that before the coolant sensor was because I have a driveway that's very muddy and throws up a lot of mud and I figured maybe I hit something and got the sensor damage or loose so wasn't sure. Here I go 🤪
@@lindseywagner7510 If you need an ecu I now have a known good spare . Hope you get it sorted. Changing my coolant was the last thing I did and that took care of it.
oh and mine also didnt throw a code... until the point where I broke down. I had to have the actual OBD2 plugged in for the code to ever read. So you have to have it plugged in when you break down for it to read any code. And as soon as you turn off the car the codes gone. it's something I've never seen before but it actually does not read a code if you plug it in after you take your trip but it does read a code if you have obd2 plugged in when it actually stalls out. and the reason I actually have my plugged and was because I was doing the live data trying to look at my CAT, fuel, open loop and close loop and all that and see what it read and if I was sparking normal, if the maf was reading normal. So yeah definitely weird that this issue doesn't throw a code. What I find so funny is how you will realize that the mechanics don't know a lot about vehicles like u think they would considering when you bring it in and they dont know s*** about your 99 Ford f150 and I've even had newer cars they don't know anything about crap they have to troubleshoot it the same way we are right now like watching videos, and going on threads and investigating the situation. That's exactly how they do it too so don't waste your money. once again if it throws a code and it's something simple than yet they can figure that out but it's something like this that you have to investigate just do it yourself. Unless of course you have plenty of money and no time to spare but be prepared for your vehicle to sit there for minimum two days being troubleshooted and investigated so really your not saving time because you still have to take your car and rent a vehicle and then pick up your car and return rented vehicle. So yeah I would rather figure it out on my own. Besides I learn a lot through the process.
Another thing to check is to see if the 20 amp fuse #27 in the under hood fuse box has been relocated to #70. This fuse powers the injectors and has melted in half on my truck.
My 2017 king ranch 5.0l was stalling at idle after filling gas tank, $38 evap purge valve from auto zone fixed issue. Diaphragm had pinhole and couldn’t hold vacuum. Thanks for video, very helpful
👍
Paul may just have something there about the blends since you say the problem only shows up around 8 or 9 months. Different fuel blends between that far apart. Hope it works out that it's the purge valve and keeping fingers crossed for you.
+stuzman Paul is sharp as a tack and its a logical explanation but not one I can do anything with. I don't like to bug guys on youtube but Paul dosent mind me asking and hes more than likely right. Let see in 2018 how it goes as this is a commonly mentioned fix as well.
Will be keeping My Fingers crossed that this fix will work for You,,, nothing more annoying than an intermittent problem ,,, Good luck Steve ...!!!!!
Thanks Jack and you might try your toes to its gona need it. LOL
That's crazy that an employee discount couldn't beat that price. I would have never guessed. Hopefully that part gets it done for you. It's such an annoying issue to have the vehicle dying. Cheers Steve!
I can't get over the price either and its a Ford OEM part. Lets see in 2018 if it fixes it.
Hi Steve - I got the exact problem 2019 F150 Coyote V8.
It’s going into dealer today for warranty about this issue. 16 fuel injectors, 8 upper 8 lower ( gotta remove intake man)
3 lowers (1000psi )they are replacing.
All 8 uppers (60psi) perfect.
One or 2 lower fuel injectors have a drip.
Wow , glad it's under warranty.
@@SteveRobReviews Yeah me too, the upper injectors are 75 a pop, the lowers are 253 a pop.
I would have never considered this. Will be looking forward to seeing the outcome.
ScannerDanner suggested it could be a seasonal fuel change fault that is seen to affect the trucks but just to see if this part fixes it as its on the list as common fixes as well. If it stalls again I will do a mention. Cheers
I am back Steve, I noticed the truck stalls, stops my fORD 1990 F 140 4.9 because the battery gets too hot. I mentioned it to the guys and one said 'thats a common problem with those trucks because the ignition coil too close to the motor. Another mentioned the it was the ignition part that is close to the battery. I will start with the first and see what happens. Imention this so it may be of help to someone else.
👍
My 92 4.9 stalls at quick stops and in reverse. Running rough. Not sure what it is yet
@@reefjunkie9018 First thing I would do that is so easy is clean your throttle body , takes 5 minutes and it will instantly show a result or not if your minimum air is being plugged with deposits.
@@reefjunkie9018 Check, clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor
Good luck Steve, I never would of thought of that. I have a lot of friends buy parts from Rock Auto and they have good luck with the parts.
It's a guess at this time and rock auto is a powerhouse for prices. Cheers Ron
I had thought before that it might be fuel related, Your last said something about left turn so I was thinking that fuel was shifting in the tank & getting pushed back into the EVAP system so that's why I asked about fuel level. I do recall a video (might have been Scanner Danner or maybe SMA) that they mention a common EVAP problem due to the change in fuel blend. I hope that fixes your problem.
I do remember Paul doing one on fuel as well . These guys are sharp and this is a common resolve for some and maybe me too. Cheers
Hi Steve I have 2010 F150 4.6 engine so far so good no problems stalling out but I'll keep this video in mind if it ever happens.Thanks
If it hasn't happened by now it most likely will never happen I guess. Take Care Aubrey
I have this problem but it’s EVERYDAY. it stalls on me at red lights, stop signs and when I’m turning into parking lots every single day. The truck will beep and the oil gauge will drop... I hope this part fixes it.
Yep its a good chance this is your problem.
I have the same exactly problem as this guy has
@@adanortega8628 Give it try , just might resolve your problem.
I have the same problem, my mechanic does not know how to fix it. did you figure out the fix?
My son has a 1990 F-150 302 E.F.I that has the same problem. I was helping him fix it and noticed there was some vacuum lines plugged with bolts and I believe the purge valve removed. We have 2 canisters one of them completely disconnected. Would you have a picture,diagram or video so we can see what's missing? I'm currently looking for a local vehicle to compare...Thanks
Dave I have done exactly what you want to do . I went to my Ford dealer and they were more than happy to print off a ford diagram showing all the parts and routings. If you go to Fords online parts web page they have the exact same diagrams if your is available for that year. Give that a try.
@@SteveRobReviews Thank you.
Most certainly hope this part resolves the issue.
I hope it does but only time will prove it or not. Cheers
2008 expedition XLT will start up just fine and once it heat up half way it will begin to have a slight knocking sound and shakes…. It also shakes and stalls at a stop….any information will be helpful ❤️
Could be a lot of expensive guesses, so it's best to invest in a good shop to do a proper diagnosis.
Looking forward to your update in 2019! Little Stevie will be walking by then!
The clock is ticking buddy .
Good luck! Hopefully it keeps your motor running
I'm just hoping as much as you .
Hope that fixes it. I never thought of the gas being different between seasons. Weird. Rock Auto, even though they charge shipping, can't be beat for OEM type repairs. I'm starting to collect the car magnets on the shop fridge!
Their prices are better including a 30 % exchange rate and shipping a lot more and still cheaper than everyplace else. They have ethanol sensors testing the fuel and altering calibrating so yes fuel can play into it but so far so good and time will tell. Cheers
since it started the 2nd day ya had it,I was thinking loose connection, wire. hopefully you do have a stubborn purge valve. sucks learning the hard way. this is like a good movie now, who did it
Jeff it's a guess at best - I think worth a try and it seems a common resolve too . In time it will tell and I will update on the stalling.
STEVE ROB REVIEWS if Paul recommends that, we would all be fools not to listen.
Paul didn't recommend the purge valve he suggested it could be fuel related between summer and winter blends.
🎉 I drive a 1995 Ford F150 6 cylinder. The other day I was driving in town and it stopped very quickly. I let it sit for a few minutes it started right back up again. I thought it might be the gas but it didn't seem to be the obstacle. I tried it again on a cooler day. Got almost to where I was going and it did it again. The power steering on the truck seems like it was hard to turn. Single single elderly female here in Oklahoma cannot afford a mechanic and them looking and searching for shade tree mechanic. Any thoughts on this
Could be so many things so a 95 is not so easy to diagnose as it's pre computers as we have today .
im having the same issue 92 f150
@@cameron_9760 I am going to try to change out my fuel filter and see if that helps
I had this issue but had no codes come up. What the problem on mine was a loose wire was rubbing on a pulley. I think it was a speed sensor wire. I zip tied it out of the way and have had no problem since
👍
Crossing my fingers for you. Cheers Steve
Mine too buddy a good guess is all I have so far.
Here's a new twist into stalling when stopping or slowing to turn with a 2000 Explorer 5.0. At first I thought it was water in the tank that moved over the pump intake strainer and plugged it whenever slowing or stopping since if I jacked up the rear end the car would die. Dropped the tank and found the fuel pump / sending assembly totally broken loose from the mounting plate. The plastic baffle / gas reservoir that is supposed to be attached to the bottom of the tank had broken loose and over time it apparently broke the pump assembly as the gas pushed it back and forth during stopping and starting off. The resulting mess had the strainer sticking up so that when stopping the gas moved away from it. The daughter said the fuel gauge had quit working a few weeks ago then it started stalling at stops.
Sounds like a nigtmare... Hope mine is not that...
Good Deal buddy. If you got Paul on your side you got the Big Guy Upstairs too!
Well let's see if this does the trick , holly crap it's going to be next Christmas till I know for sure. HAHA
Good luck Steve! Hope it works out 👍🏻
Is this a revised part ? Or the same one they been using?
Hopefully you got a good one👍🏻
It matches up exactly with the same part number as from Ford but that's an interesting point - I'm not sure now because there was a bunch of previous numbers too. Hum my friend is a parts manager at Ford I'll ask that question. That may make a difference. Thanks
2007 F150 4.6 liter. never has stalling issues before. i replaced the manifolds and EGR Valve because of rust issues. and exhaust fumes. no spudder truck runs good....But now the truck is stalling at a stop light. intermittent. usually after been used for more than 10 min. Any one with similar issues. Getting a EGR code 0401 code anything else to replace.....??
Seems your computer is still setting insufficient flow . Check for blockages would be my best guess.
Has it worked thus far?
Yes it has and I will do a follow up in the future when it gets to one year. Im sure its the resolve because it would have stalled by now. That was a hard one to figure out. Cheers Mika
I have a 2015 5.0 f150 lariat that is doing the same thing. Im gonna try the same thing. Gotta find the part you changed. Ty for your video
Did it work for you? I have the same thing going on
@@georgesultani367I need to know too. My truck's doing that same thing
Same
Was the new part you purchased from Rock a FoMoCo version?
Yes it is a Ford Motorcraft part. I posted the installation pics on instagram if your on it too.
Ford dealer employees generally get cost plus 10% plus local tax. Some dealers just give 10% off retail.
My friends discount Ford discount was still more expensive - it's like amazon I guess they must buy parts by the box car to sell them so cheap compared to everyone else.
Hello everyone I have a 96 f150 5.0 if it’s any wormer than 80 the truck will not start right away and after driving no more than 5 mile it’s stalls but it’s not over heating I am not able to Figure it out any ideas
I hope it works. Been down that road before.My old nissan truck gave me a fit for 23 years before i fixed it.All it needed was a wire tie problem salved.
I hope so to Danny . Cheers
Brother if scannerdanner stepped in to help that's about the best direction you could get. I guess I'll stick around for a year to see if it works. :)
Paul suggested it could be fuel related between summer and winter blends. Seems a logical idea since he sees this more than I. The purge valve is a long shot in my mind trying to think if it could stick and stall out the truck on a decel or just make it run rich. A bit above my pay grade so this is the next logical cheapest fix I can come up with that has been suggested as a common fix by some . I will report back the first time it stalls again or doesn't in 2018 .
Reply ·
Sounds good to me. Thanks for pinning my comment.
I have a 03 F150 and it stalls when stopped and will not go. I have to hold gas until it eventually takes off. Not sure if this can fix that problem. Just changed filter and fluid.
Ramon this condition never flooded it with so much fuel not to restart . Your condition I would concentrate on the throttle body and the first thing is clean it and go from there.
ive noticed that my ford will run crappy right around the 0 temp mark in the winter for some reason
Mine never does that and your never stalls HAHAHA I'd take a bit of running rough any day .
My 2003 Ford F150 started doing this intermittently back in October. It will go 2 or 3 weeks without it happening but then it will do it twice in one day. Sometimes it sputters but doesn't die. Ever since it started happening it idles a tiny bit on the rough side. It runs great and feels fine when driving. Hopefully, a purge valve will fix it.
Good luck Brad 👍
did it fix it?
I am having a similar problem with my 2001 in colder weather. Let me know what happens. I am cleaning the throttle body today.
I love this guys passion. 👍
Thanks bud much appreciated 👍
I hope this is what causes your problem Steve. Some times you never find out what the problem is. I may have told you this story so if I have I’m sorry for repeating it again. So my Paw Paw bought a new 1969 Ford Limited (I believe that’s what it was). The thing squeaked over by the passenger side, like plastic rubbing together. He took it back and forth to the Dealership to see if they could find it....nope, no can do. So Paw Paw got some cardboard and folded it into and put it where he thought it was coming from. It took him a couple of attempts but finally he found the right place. No one could find it but Paw Paw had had enough and he finally found the right place and that thing never squeaked again! I guess where there is a will there is a way, lol. Good luck Steve!
Thanks Becky , I have to do something so let see in time . Cheers
My truck would stall in warm weather it was a fuel vent line. It was broken
Found a similar problem with a 2010 E350 I'm working on replace canister purge valve and still had the same problem It only stalls when you're coasting up to a stop sign or a corner and then go through it turn the wheel and it'll stall.
Foot on the gas or taking off from a stop sign or a stoplight all the power in the world no hesitation no dropping cylinders or stumbling goes through the RPM power band just fine it's only coasting to a stop and then turning.
The valve fixed mine .
@@SteveRobReviews It didn't with mine but a very quick update called a good friend of mine whose had this problem before and sure enough it was something very simple and stupid. So on the vans that have that canister style air filter... The mass air flow sensor wiring harness goes through the side of it before it plugs into the MAF itself. Around the wiring harness is a rubber puck which seals up the air gap behind the mass airflow sensor where the wiring harness comes through the plastic casing. It often times likes to work itself free and sometimes the wiring harness itself going through the center of that rubber puck creates an air gap.
You wouldn't think that would be enough but he suggested sealing it up with some silicone... Sure enough idling problems solved.
I've always known that Ford mass air flow sensors are very sensitive I've known people who've put cold air intakes on their f-150s and f250s and get lean codes.
But an air leak just about the size of a half a dime was causing the issue
Did it work?? I have an 05 f150 and it just started doing this to me. And it was 90 degrees all summer until about 3 days ago up here in Minnesota, it’s been in the 40’s the last 3 days. It’s only happened twice. But mine doesn’t run that great to begin with.
Solved the stalling instantly .
Same here... Minnesota hahaha
I have a 2007 ford expedition and same thing drives well til u get to a stop and it wants to act like its going to stall idk what it is any info for me will help plz?
Where you able to resolve the problem? My ex wife does that. Really lace some parts and ready to push this POS of the cliff.
Good shot, hope all is good.
Thanks , worth a try.
It sounds about right. unlike my problem.
I have a 1998 Expedition, 5.4 v8 triton. Recently I started loosing power while driving to the point that it would shut off. Turns out it was the cat that was clogged so I got it replaced. It fixed the problem but now when I turn on my truck it idles and shuts off if I do not give it gas. It does the same thing while on drive as I stop.
Totally fixable , a bit of testing but a good tech can fix it.
Did it have a knocking sound ?
Nice relatively cheap fix if this works! Let’s hope for the best!
Yes if it works and only time will tell. Thanks
Good job boss. I have a f150 ford 5.4 I put a new fuel pump and new fuel filter new battery and new Crank sensor and cam sensor no fule mod on it I can't find what the problem is. Would you now
Wow it's time for a pro to look at it before you run out of guesses:)
Mine has stalled just a couple times normally when off-road in low range four wheel drive idling down a hill.
Today it's stalled or almost stalled while turning into a parking space at extremely slow speed so I'm going to have to look into this.
I have a 2011 f-150 5.0 it stalls out and then say low oil pressure when i come to a stop or real slow speeds. It has acceleration issues also excpecially at low speeds. I am able to start it right back up though after it stalls out
That's exactly what I'm dealing with! I have a 2010 F150 XLT
I have the 4.6
Im having exact same problem. Same exact truck
Same problem here, same engine, any solutions yet?
Anything yet ? I'm having issue on 2012
Is you’re truck the V8 or V6? I’m having that issue with my V6
V8 4.6 liter. Your engine would have a evap purge valve too.
Can vacuum affect this ?
Yes its vaccum operated.
Hello, my Ford 1990 F150 4.9 L stalls on reverse after driving for a while, it did right in the middle of the parking lot, could not re-start the truck, then fr some reason I did not have my cables nor anybody else to have given me a jump. After about 30 minutes I decided to start it AND IT DID START!! And I got back home. It did again after a month, and this time as I lifted the hood, I noticed a bit of fluid had come out of a couple of Battery cells, I suspected it overheats. After 20 minutes I tried to start it and it started, went back home. So now the question is.....What is causing this overheating? I checked it for shorts, but I found none, what do I need to check and fix? Thanks a lot for the advice.
Time to start diagnosing with a good tech. You have multiple conditions impossible to diagnose at my end . Might be best to get a local tech take a look.
Vapor canister purge valve..thanks!
👍
did this valve also fix the low oil pressure light you where talking about in the first video?
The low oil light automatically goes on if the engine stalls. There was no fault with the oil light. Cheers 👍
Sweet thank you
I have a 2015 Ford F150 5.0 I read on another video. That the fuel pump drive module can go bad causing the truck to stall out occasionally and idle up and down and shut off. The dealer can't figure it out. Say the vcts and phasers are good. Do you think worth it's a shot to replace? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Dont think you have a fuel pump drive module on the frame under the box at the rear , yes that was a problem . Mine the dealer could not fix either but the evap purge valve under the hood fixed it for good . Ya for $60 its worth a shot.
@@SteveRobReviews I replaced that already no change. I'll try this module I located above the spare tire rack. Can't believe these technicians can't figure it out. Apparently this is a common problem with the 5.0s idle and stall issue. It's less prevalent when it's cold outside too. So annoying only has a 110k on it and really not interested in trading it in lol.
So it stored some codes and after the technician messed with it. It ended up being the vct sensors on my passenger side 2,000 miles since repair no more erratic idling or dying out so we'll see if the problem comes back..
@@LA-TEEZI VCT Solenoids I had two bad ones. It took them looking at my truck 4 different times to figure it out.
Circling back. is 3 months long enough to know if it's a FIX?
Hope so!
How about a "It's Fixed" short video when it's been determined that your Good to Go!
Thanks
Well it hasent stalled once so far. Im waiting till the fall to make sure. Wish I could say yes forsure but I really have to make sure.
@Steve Rob Reviews, Hi there again, wondering if over the course of the past year if it's your opinion that the repair is a success or not.
I'm curious and seeking "closure" :)
Keep making great content!!
Yes its success . 👍 Thanks bud.
You could create a drinking game off watching this by simply making "we're gonna roll with it" the trigger...lol
👍
My 2001 f250 5.4 and my 2010 f150 4.6 both have this stalling problem.
I’ve changed all the plugs and coil packs on the 250 which still didn’t keep it from idling really high. My local mechanic tinkered with the throttle pos sensor which stopped it but now it idles really low and stalls at slow speeds and my mpg dropped from about 12 to 8.
My 150 stalls at slow speeds as well but not nearly as much as it did before I replaced the upstream o2 sensors. There’s no codes or info at all when diagnostics are hooked up. I’m reluctant to change out the downstream o2 sensors because they’re $100 and might not be the problem.
But both tritons are doing the same thing. I’ve checked the grounds as well for corrosion and all appear ok. I’m thinking it’s an air related issue or pcm. Any help appreciated!!!!
@WestTNReb343 Are you using a factory capable scan tool or generic code reader as an upper level scan tool shows so much more data. Understand how to read the data from a scan tool , that is a must know on how to figure it all out. Looking at data while its stalling will reveal the direction to most faults. Guessing can get expensive, so I'd start with the basics and verify your throttle body is clean and your O2 sensor data as well as MAF sensor readings are within range. There's a start that's not costly and actually fun to investigate, as well as learning how the scan tool data can show the out of range data displayed. It's totally fixable. If you want to learn how to figure our diagnostic I'd recommend a buddies channel . Check out Paul's channel he's an automotive instructor. "SCANNERDANNER"
@@SteveRobReviews thanks for the reply! No I’m just having Autozone hook it up to their device.
Fingers crossed 🤞 for you Steve
It's a hail mary at best LOL
I got a 2010 Lariat 5.4. It would stall 2 or 3 times in a 10-mile city trip every now and then. Never threw a code. Easy restart. Sometimes right after a fill-up it would struggle at start up. Replaced this can and all is well. Thanks.
That's terrific 👍
Someone help me please. My ford f150 5.0 will start up and I can drive to the corner and then it acts like it's starving for gas and WILL die but it WILL start right back up everytime and do the same thing. Help me please
Your going to need a scan tool and read any codes and observe the live data .
Thank you Steve Rob I really appreciate it I will let everyone know what it is when and if I get it fixed 😀
What was the problem mine does the same thing
@@katherineboultinghouse1451what was it?? Im having the same issues rn
Amen to sharing information and Steve Rob does a good job of that.
ScannerDanner is where I got some of the info I shared with you. He's a great guy and he likes to find the problem or recreate the problem. Your problem is a little hard to diagnose as it happens once a year. Say your not on Santa's naughty list are ya? Excellent suggestion by Paul because the gas is blended with more light ends to make starting easier in the colder weather. So much so that back when the majority of cars had carbs the engines would run leaner with this mixture. With the O2 sensors and computers in todays cars the computer just compensates for the leaner gas mixture by allowing more fuel so that the air to fuel ratio remains the same. Hope he fixed problem four4 ya and I'll see ya round Christmas to find out.
Let's hope for the best and hope I don't have a stall in 2018. Thanks for the help buddy.
the 5.4engines, 4.6 too. they are throw away engines. they say use 5-20w. it is too thin for worn engines, such as over 100,000 miles.
the engines get worn and the hot oil pressure coming to a stop drops so low it is below the computer engine cut off pressure and the engine stalls. restart give the pressure switch a jolt of higher pressure and the computer allow the engine to start. it happens with mine. i put heavier oil in it and lucas oil stabilizer and it seems to have done the trick. the oil pressure guage in the ford trucks is fake other than off and on for the computer. all those other fixes won't correct low oil pressure at high temperatures
What oil do you use? I still use 0-20w and it stalls from time to time
@@AlexOnibokun i moved up to 10w30, my stalling stopped completely. 5w20 is too thin for a worn hot engine from my experience,
@@jmyers9853 thanks for the prompt response. I got mine a few weeks ago and I observed the aggressive jerk caused by the vct solenoid. Changed the oil to the recommended 0w-20. I will be replacing the vct solenoid and the cam shaft position sensors this weekend, then change the oil to 10w-30. I also observed my full tank doesn't do more than 200miles as against the 585miles it shows when fueling up
I have a 95 F150 300. Engine drops oil pressure and sounds like it wants to stall when coming to a stops. If I switch to neutral, oil pressure comes back to normal and sounds fine. Oil pressure and engine runs fine while driving. Any ideas??
It just started when I just did an oil change and used Mobil 1 5w-20. I’ve read to use 10w-30. Or could be oil pump failing.
David oil pressure is conditional to rpm so low rpm = low oil pressure as you noticed when it wants to stall. So many things could cause this but I'd make sure the basics are sound . Throttle body is clean , idle air control solenoid is working correctly and no noticable vaccum leaks .
The oil change should not likely cause your symptoms .
@@SteveRobReviews thank you for the response! I will check for vacuum leaks and get back
@@SteveRobReviews UPDATE: I changed my oil to 10w 30 and the problem stopped
'14 F150 5.0 Coyote is stalling at stops while it's warming up. Once warmed up it idles sort of ok at stops but doesn't stall. Also if you try to quickly rev the motor in park it will bog before the rpms come up. Part is cheap enough, nothing to lose.
Let me know if it works. Cheers Steve
Well it fixed my issue completely. Cold start idles at 1200 rpm when it would normally bounce 800 to 1000. Rock solid at 600 rpm stopped in drive. Couldn’t be happier. Part store said they sell 2 of them a week. Great video! Subscribed.
@@Steve007362436 Just awesome bud so glad to have been of assistance.
The purge valve does not seem to be the cause of stalling when idling or cruising, only when going back to idle 🤔
Yes exactly so most would look at fuel pressure and idle air control. Looking at fuel trims tells a lot if you have a scan tool. Stalls are all fixable.
@@SteveRobReviews
Disconnecting the IAC valve drops the idle and throws the relevant DTC, so it's not that.
I've ordered a fuel pressure gauge and injector tester (Temu, ~AUD50 for both) as I THOUGHT I had a stuck injector(s) due to large negative fuel trims on one bank, but I think I misread my cheap-ish V519 scan tool. Will test "leak down" anyway 🤦♂️
@@electron-1979 👍
You're right IAC valve could be lazy.
I'll test that 👍
Well, that's about the only thing I didn't guess, lol. You've figured out how to keep me around another year. Better than a give away. The unknown cliff hangar. LOL :)
Haha always nice to see ya buddy. I'm wondering if you think it is plausible to have the valve stick open on a decel and cause a stall or are you thinking like me it would only run rich and cause a rough idle . I'm not sure on this one at all but so many say it one of the fixes.
Have a 2002,the pvc valve rubber 90 sucks air after a while and throws a lean condition on both banks.watch out for that and thanks .
Thanks Jesse will do.
Did u even say what the part was you bought??? I thought you were going to do actual work? All you did is talk & I dont think I ever heard you say what part you even bought to fix it???
Motorcraft Canister Purge Valve. I've read where you can check it by unplugging the electrical connector and the vacuum hose and with the truck running it shouldn't be pulling any vacuum, check it with your finger. It is located up front/top behind the throttle body.
STAY AWAY FROM ETHANOL AND LOW OCTANE CHEAP GAS!
Check for Spark? Ford's ignition systems are a nightmare. Ignition Control Module, Distributor.
Hopefully that fixes the problem for your truck! Time will tell.
+Ozzstar I hope so too but if not I'm calling you the first time it stalls again and we can both put our heads together and deside who to ask for more help.😅
+STEVE ROB REVIEWS lol!
Mine will stall if I rev it up then let off the throttle, as well as when coming to a stop.
Will update my comment when I try this fix.
Mine is 2004, so it has an Idle Air Control valve, but I don't think that's the issue
I'd look at cleaning the throttle body and see if the plate is all carboned up .
@@SteveRobReviews
I commented about cleaning it, but you were so fast the reply 😊
I'm in Australia, so no rust 😊
Trans has worn servos, so needs the fix
200,000 kms and the engine runs great and is very quiet 😊
I blocked off the tube from the purge valve at the manifold, but no change.
I tested the purge valve by applying vacuum to the little vacuum port. It leaks a little, but no flow when sucking on the larger vacuum port (you still get some flow if you blow hard enough through the fuel tank port).
Applying 12.5V (approx. 0.35A) to the solenoid blocks the flow through the little vacuum port, which opens the valve, allowing lots of flow through the larger ports.
Fuel pressure measures within spec (60 PSI).
The Idle Air Valve is a bit stiff and doesn't return. They are fairly expensive here in AU (AUD249+).
Luckily, I found a Proflow LS adaptor (PFE689S or PFE689BK) and an LS Idle Valve. (PFEQTBIAC or PFEQTBIAC-2) is cheap 😀
Adaptor and Valve just over AUD100
My 2005 f150 4.6 stalled when I was coasting to a red light. Started right back up but check engine light was on. Got a scan, several codes....P0401, P0109, P2198, P2196. Where do I start?? Help!!!
Also stalled a week later while driving at 40mph on a straight road.
Wow where do I start is right is a great question . The codes will give you a clue as to where to start and some codes are a result of the stall. The 401 egr flow is a good start and go from there . If you want to know how to diagnose the 401 check out my buddies channel he has plenty of Ford 401 vids. ScannerDanner , Paul is about the best there is.
Wisconsin or Minnesota?
😅😅 Ontario Canada .
Do u have part # rockauto for part
Nope , best you match it up exactly with your specific vehicle.
I have f150 2016 5.0 same issue
What is the part name that u changed?
Evaporative Purge Valve.
My trucks having the exact same issue. At red lights it refuses to go and rattles violently. Check engine light flashed and sometimes restarting my truck fixes it immediately but now I had to wait like 20 minutes for it to cool off. I had a bank 1 sensor 1 running too rich a while ago for the exhaust value but I’ve heard from other sources that it could be something else
So I hope it’s just a stuck open purge value causing all of this but if I have to also replace the sensor in the exhaust I’ll do that also
Just curious to see what you think my problem could be
Since it started getting cold here in Texas, truck has turned off on me 3 times. All of them were when I was going uphill .
I have a 1985 f150 lariat and it would die on me randomly while driving, i changed the tfi module and it turned on but then when i drove it it started stalling bad untill it wouldnt turn back on, now it doesnt turn on even after i changed out the ignition coil
Wow , whatever it is it can be tested and fixed.
Good luck! Hope that works!!!
Thanks Chris me too.
I have an 07 f150 standard that everytime I downshift to stop at a light, the rpms bounces to very very low and dies. I don't have the money to take it to a shop but I'll try to fix it myself. Any idea on what it could be??? I'm lost on this and stressing over how much its going to cost to get it running right. HELP PLEASE!!! 😳😳😳😳
First thing comes to mind is a dirty throttle body . Try cleaning it maybe that's all it is.
@@SteveRobReviews I'll youtube what that is and see if I can get to it myself. Thank you! I'll keep you posted!
The videos I've seen had Triton on the engines and 5.something engines... mines a 4.2 v6. Is it all basically same on top? The Triton was totally different on top .
you could also try cleaning the MAF using CRC Industries Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner. And if your going to clean the throttle body off the truck..you'll want to do a relearn process. Just google throttle body relearn process for your truck. Just did all this recently.
Did this work? I’m currently dealing with this issue. Has been happening on and off for 2 years now and no one can tell me why.
Yes absolutely fixed 100%
I have a 1997 f 150 4.2 v6 runs good but it does stall some times I put a new fuel filter it was good for a few days then same crap stalling I've heard the spark plugs come lose on f150 maybe that's the problem because I bought it three years ago first two years ran perfect didn't stall at all.
Wayne if changing the fuel filter fixed it from stalling for a couple of days then maybe you have lots of dirt in your fuel tank. I'm thinking if your truck stalled every day and a new fuel filter fixed it temporarily them maybe its lack of fuel or another plugged filter.
Dirty throttle body
Good morning Steve
Morning and a good -25 this morning too.
STEVE ROB REVIEWS yeah not that cold here in New Jersey, USA. Only 7 degrees. Lol!!!
I'm patient, I can wait a year for an answer.........
It's going to be along wait Val HAHA
What about fuel pump activation noise???? I dont have a fuel pump noise and changed the fuel pump driver model
Mine was not a fuel related fault , the purge valve resolved it for me.
I changed mine and didn't hear the hissing noise just to find out that the "New" part I purchased was faulty. Hopefully up and running by now!
good luck with it,hope it works
Thanks Wallace
i got 2015 F150 that i cleaned the throttle body and replaced the valve and it still does it. The throttle body was replaced this past july and it stopped doing it for a while and now its back. i get no lights at all . This is really weird problem . How has Ford not been able to fix this . It looks like it happens on every year modal f150. will be the last Ford junk i will get. i guess i will just start replacing parts till it stops doing it.
The evap purge valve solved my stalling for over 2 years now.
What motor is yours?
I wish you the best of luck
Thanks and that's what this need is some luck. Cheers bud
Any help, I have a stall and hesitation on my 2002 ford f150, only stalls and hesitation in cold mornings. It cranks fine but stalls after a few miles. Cranks right back up and runs fine. If I warm it up and then go, it runs fine
Could be many things but cleaning the throttle body is a good start.
I cleaned it. I took it off. New mass. New IAC. New everything but fuel pump. It still runs great just has to warm up or be warm weather. It stalls but cranks right back up and runs great. I'm gonna try fuel pump. It will be last to try. Everything else is new. All the little things. It doesn't have any issues in the summer. At all
Thanks for help. Any help.
bad capacitors on your eec (computer)
If the eec or computer was bad, it would do it all the time. It only does this in cold weather
So just to be clear this is the evap purge valve that’s under the hood on the driver side? Or is it the canister purge valve under the vehicle
Please let me know as soon as you can
Under the hood . 10 minutes to change . Not one stall since I changed it in 2 years. Cheers
STEVE ROB REVIEWS thank you brother! Great video
The Purge valve in under the hood and it has a normally closed valve, the vent valve is at the evap canister and they are normally open. The vast majority of the time it is the purge valve and not the vent valve.
What did you replace?
Evaporative purge valve . Not one stall since I filmed this.
RockAuto is nothing but a drop shipper. Cheap yes, but wait till you need to have something exchanged or warrantied.
I have never ran down that road yet so I cant comment on Rock Auto service .
Another Google recommendation thumbs up thanks 👍
Cheers 👍