Mathew YOU ARE THE MAN!!! i can not thank you enough for posting this video...I was a minute away from calling a tow truck to have my sons F150 towed to my mechanic to have the fuel pump replaced but fortunately i checked RUclips first and came across ur video. Mathew you truly saved me a ton of money and time...it turned out be the FPDM and my son followed your video and replaced it quickly, easily and inexpensively...you made my boy and me extremely happy to have his truck back on the road.. I really can not thank you enough....a million thank yous to you Mathew!!! keep up the good work...i owe you a beer or two!!
I appreciate the video. 6 years later and your still helping people. I went through a auto car wash and my truck cut off. I made it home eventually lol. It cut off about 6 times. Luckily I wasn’t too far. Found your video, dropped my spare and my module was cracked in half. I guess the water spraying under the truck was the last straw. Headed to parts store now to get a new one. Thanks again.
I have a 2010 F-150. I could see the module without dropping the tire. Got underneath the truck in front of the passenger side back tire with a flashlight and could see it. Fortunately the module looks OK. In my case my fuel pump went bad a month or so ago when we were camping. Someone camping down the lot has decades of experience with Fords and helped me diagnose. We got it running an back home. He checked the fuses and they looked good. Had the fuel pump replaced and thought I was done. Last week got a wrench light and truck has been shutting off when in stop and go traffic. Found out yesterday about the fuse issue. Basically the wire to the #27 fuse cannot handle the load and the fuse melts. Ran a wire to a new fuse in a different slot and all is well. Was glad to see this video just to make sure we do not have any more issues!
WTG! Saved the day! It's Christmas Eve and thought for sure my fuel pump went out. Turned out it was the fpsm and instead of an all day project and $200 it was a ten min project and $100! God bless you real good!
You hit the nail on the head!! I thought it was a fuel pump and thank God i watched your video. I dropped my tire and found the FPDM broken in half. I replaced it for $105 and was back on the road in 10 min. You saved me a tow and who knows how much the mechanic would of charged to diagnose and probably start with the pump!! You're the man
damn well my 07 king ranch was running fine and outta no where power up and down then cut off, i saw this video and change the module it cranks but dies, changed fuel filter and even press the red button still no fuel.. cud it be the pump or those two harnesses under the driver side
Well done sir! I had the exact same problem with my 2007 Ford F150 and had to have it towed to a repair shop. Fortunately (or unfortunately for them) they had experienced COVID and could not diagnose my truck for another week. I started searching on RUclips as I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump myself, and found your video! The rest is history; I purchased a new driver at O'Reilly's and had it installed in 20 minutes, (the old one looked exactly like yours and fell apart as it was being removed!) And now the truck runs perfectly again! Thank you! I am sure you saved me several hundred dollars in repairs, plus a week or more without my vehicle, because the likelihood that they would start with the fuel pump and work back from there was a distinct possibility! Thank you once again for a great video!
My Brother-in-law's 06 F150 was running bad yesterday and this morning it would not start. It's been raining here like crazy the last couple days. He called me about changing the fuel pump, came on youtube and saw this video. Pulled the Fuel Pump Driver Module and it was falling apart, the back side was pretty much gone. Put a new one on and the truck started right up. Thank you so much for posting this video.
Saved me a ton of time and effort. My 2009 F150 work truck wouldn't start and thought it was a bad fuel pump. Ended up being a bad relay! Thanks! Got a new sub for life!
Shout out to Matthew and the youtubers he got his information from. I was about to purchase a fuel pump and drop a full tank. I stumbled on this clip by chance and glad I did. I removed the part I was not aware existed, cleaned the contacts with lube and emery cloth, plugged it in and boom it worked. I did go purchase a new part after. This saved me time and money for a part that wouldn't have fixed the problem.
Look at all that corrosion on the frame rails. You must live in a northern state where winters are bad. A good video to help others out. Fords idea of putting aluminum on steel was a great one.
I appreciate folks like you sharing their experiences with the rest of us shade tree mechanics regarding vehicle maintenance. Thank you for posting and God Bless...
Sir: Your video, though 5 years old, I found to be a Godsend. I am currently experiencing almost the exact same problem you had 5 years ago in how the problem came to your attention. We each own the same vehicle, only my Lariat is a 2004, yours an ‘05. Was running strong and normally when last week began idling VERY rough and then engine light came on. Managed to get home with stall-outs every 1/4 mile (Fortunately I was close to home and did check oil level, which seems normal.) And, like you, my suspicion is bad fuel pump and/or fuel filter. Unfortunately, NOT a cheap repair (the pump anyway), if you’re a Non-Gearhead like me and at the mercy of whom you hope is an honest (if not expensive) mechanic. Fortunately, I did receive one Pearl from an acquaintance who is a lifelong master mechanic, certified in everything a mechanic can be ASC certified in….and then some. A living, breathing encyclopedia of all things automotive/mechanical. I pointed out to him that aftermarket fuel filters can be had at any of the major online retailers (A specific one comes to mind!), and via the websites of the chain automotive parts retailers- for as little as $45. He immediately told me “No!” and that these cheap, foreign-manufactured fuel pumps are basically inexpensive junk and rarely last beyond 6 months. The Ford OEM fuel pump runs in the neighborhood of $480.00, but this was one instance where buying the factory part is the wiser decision. (Assuming this is the problem with my truck!?) As you stated, just getting access to the fuel pump on these model trucks is a major pain (even for the mechanic), and I certainly don’t wish to repeat the process in 6 months because I requested installation of inferior parts. Like myself, I’m assuming you really like your truck. Mine has been reliable and dependable up to this current problem. Unfortunately, new ones are $~50,000. Who can afford that. I will definitely ask if it’s possibly the fuel pump service module, based upon your experience and recommendation. Thank you for your helpful videos. Happy and safe travels.
Thanks for all that, Andy!! I hope it works out for you and I definitely agree on choosing when to buy the OEM parts. Sadly, my F150 grew a crack in the frame a few years ago and have since sold it. Good luck brother!
I'm glad I came across this video as this is was the exact culprit to my truck not wanting to start on random occasions. I checked under the spare tire location and the aluminum housing was cracked twisted and buckled. The back plate of the housing had a large curved crack that somehow got pushed in close to the circuit board. It was so close that the corrosion was transferred and built up onto the soldered components. I broke away all the frail housing wiped the board clean and the truck started perfectly fine. I temporarily stuck it in a ziploc bag and sealed the entire thing with electrical tape as a temporary solution. Thanks for the video was really helpful.
This is amazing content, thank you for sharing. The amount of money and more importantly time this may save me is truly appreciated. Will update. Same day update: Inspected part and while not nearly as corroded as your video it was definitely on the path. Replaced and mounted with bushing and the truck started very smoothly with little to no excessive vibration. Thanks again!
I want to thank you. I barely made it to work with the exact symptoms you described. Coldest day of the year I crawled under the truck in the parking lot on a friday night after working all day and fixed it and it’s been perfect since. Again a million thanks
Matthew, your video really saved my day. I was thinking fuel pump, but odd, since it would run strong, until it wouldn't. I didn't even know about the driver. Mine looked like yours. I replaced that and the fuel filter, and it seems to be the issue. It's running like it should now.
Thank you so much for this! Had mine go out completely today in a snowstorm. Got it back rolling again! It feels like it has more power than it has in awhile now!
I would like to also thank you, howbeit 6 years later, honestly I wasn't even aware of a fuel pump drive module. Located mines and saw how it was kind of rigged up. unplugged it, plugged it in , crawled from under the truck (longest part of this whole process 🤣), turned the key and started right up. So Thank you sir! I know there may still be an issue with the FPDM, will do some more diagnostics on the wires, connector and module.
This video saved me a ton of time, energy, and money. Exactly what was wrong with my 2005 F150. It’s a joke Ford hasn’t had a recall about this. Thanks.
Thank you so much for posting this video. You have saved me a lot of time, effort and money. Your diagnosis was spot on for my truck. I replaced that desentigrating module and it started right up and runs fine. Again, many thanks!!
We were in the mountains at hunting camp, 45 minutes off the main road and way back in the woods, when my fuel pump went up. Or so I thought. I was trying to figure out how in the heck I was going to get my truck out of the woods, which was just the first problem. Watched this video and decided to give it a try. HALLELUJAH Thanks to you and this video, I was able to drive the truck out. THANKS FOR SAVING ME A TON OF MONEY 💰💰💰
Thank you for this video. My truck was doing the same thing. I thought fuel pump, was fixing to get it towed. Saw this video and started here first. It worked😊 so easy took me about 5 mins to change it. Thanks so much you saved me some money🙌
I am so glad that you did all of this. I learn from others mistakes and victories. I have been pulling my hair out with trying to figure out this problem. I even went as far as getting a remanufactured pcm brain and having it programmed to my truck. It ran perfect for 2 months after that, just lucky. It’s the same problem all over again and then i seen your video. Thank you so much. Same actual problem
Great video, this was totally my problem too. Was thinking I had a bad fuel pump but wanted to do all the diagnostics before going to that extreme. So in the 30 seconds it took me to drop the spare, my FPDM looked exactly like yours.
Thanks for filming this fix! I parked last night and with zero warning this morning my 2008 would not turn over. Figuring a fuel issue I managed to find this video within an hour of looking messing around. Tapped the fuel pump driver module a little and it started on the next crank.
Hey I would just like to say thank u very much. My 04 f150 had been acting up off and on and I thought it was poor fuel most of the time. Upon inspection after I watched your video, I reached in wheel well and removed some of the back plate from module!!! Again thank u🙏🙏
I remember when the fuel pump was on the side of the bottom of the block. So easy to take off only to bolts to deal with ! always a ford owner. but this is why I don't like how the change things to make it harder to work on yourself. So you have to take it to the dealership !
I also remember the 2 bolts and a couple hoses on the fuel pump on my old CJ-7. I challenge the 'new cars are hard to work on', mainly since you can plug in and see sensor values real-time.
Barreth Ford f150 you're good for about 5 minutes then it act like it runs out of gasit'll sit there for just a little while I'll Crank it up it'll go about a half a mile and then quit again act like it runs out of gas I let it sit for a little while you break up it go for about a half mile if already put a fuel rail pressure sensor own that was $140 now I guess I'll put a fuel pump it's $250 never take a look at that module is above the spare tire
@@billywhitejr6707 Did you check your air control valve ! That could be the problem! My 2000 150! Was acting like it would want to die and that was the problem it located on top of the engine
I stumbled across your video searching for symptoms for my 06 Lincoln mark lt. every time I would step on the gas my truck would feel like it was chocking, and my fuel range decreased from 14mpg to 10. So I change the fuel filter thinking it was that but it didn’t. Work. So I thought it was the fuel injectors or fuel pump until I seen your video. Wow I had never heard of the fuel module but that was the problem..thanks man!
I was prepared to replace my fuel pump on my 06 F 150 until I saw you video, so I checked and my fuel pump driver looked just like yours. I replaced it and now it starts and runs fine. Thanks for sharing, you saved me from replacing a fuel pump with all that extra work for nothing.
Thanks for the info! Saved me 300.00 on a new fuel pump and saved me a bunch of work. I have a 2005 f150 also. I checked the fuel pump module like you said and sure enough the back side of it was corroded and exposing the circuit board. I changed the module and have had no problems since. Thanks again!
By the way, before changing the fuel filter with those spring fittings, spray some lubricant into the end of the fitting to wet it. That area of the vehicle gets covered with everything it drives through. Use fuel line release tool and a flat bladed screwdriver as a lever to help push the release tool under/into the retaining spring connection, then you should be able to separate the line from the fuel filter. I scribe my mileage into the filter housing and when it rusts later I can see it clearly, better than paint markers.
Thanks buddy, 6am here went to start my truck to go to work and I have a no start, no fuel pump sound issue. Fuses and relay good, I’ll check this next and post back.
absolutely great info man thank you sooo much. i had to learn the hard way after dropping a full 28gal tank and replacing the fuel pump... only to have my ford dye again on me 65miles from home. thank god i found your video before giving up on my truck. May blessings find you and yours. Sincerely, Veloci Philoso
Dude! I can only imagine the feeling of doing all that work to replace the pump to find out it wasn't the cause of the problem... but I'm glad this helped.
thanks so much for your video! after a $325.00 tow today and a lost day of work i found your vid and lo and behold my module looked worse than yours. slapped a new one on, works fine and i'm going to work tomorrow to re-koop my money! thanks
''Keep the alum case off the steel frame'' That is a must!! In the north, or anywhere, the hwy dept uses salt on the roads you'll get alot of corrosion on that alum case! I've had that very same issue on a 2007 F150, got the spare tire off (that was the hardest part of the job) changing out the module took less than 15min.! Remember to put anti-seize and lock washers on your new bolts, makes the job easier for next time!
Thank you for this video. My truck died on me the other day and this is exactly what the problem was. Replaced it and my truck runs so much better its crazy
Before using the scissor tool to disconnect a fuel line, be sure to get a lot of penetrating fluid into the connection. Once you get the scissor tool inserted as far as it will go, gently put a pair of vice grips behind it so it can't work its way backwards. Then gently put a pair of visegrips on the part of the fuel line that you are going to be pulling off, and use that visegrip to pull the fuel line away.
Thanks, I was looking for a video that says the pump is supposed to make noise when key turned on. I couldn't hear it when my 2013 failed but am sure I remember hearing it before. I have a 2018 too and that definitely does make that sound and its very noticeable so I am not sure if the 2013 does or not. My uncle is a mechanic and recommended I put a screwdriver up to my ear and press it on the tank while someone turns the ignition on (not to start just on) and I could hear it hum twice but was much quieter than I think it should be. My issue is we could hear a rattle starting while under load or while tapping the gas but only while driving. Not related to engine speed while still. The next day the engine cranks but wont start. Faint fuel smell on the dipstick, checked relays and fuses. Put Ifixd bluetooth code reader on and it reads P0230 ECM has detected a fault in the fuel pump circuit but the dash never showed a code. I re-seated the fuel pump drive module and beat it a few times, still no go. Hoping it is that and I could try to bypass it to test first or meter the output. I hope its just the drive module as that seems to be very common. Most of the fuel pump issues seem to be related to the sending of the fuel level.
Thanks, I have a 2003 F-150, 5.4 and having some intermittant issues and throwing a couple codes. Each PO171 and PO 174 included the MAP sensor. So, I reinstalled the original MAP sensor I replaced the last time I had a code similar. I found a VAC line leak was the culprit but left the new MAP sensor in place. On a hunch I reinstalled the old MAP sensor and the truck runs fine however, I do know about that fuel pump driver and if it dies you are stuck. So will replace soon as regular maintenance.
I had similar symptoms with my 99 f-150 and it turned out to be the relay that drives the fuel pump. In my case that relay was under the hood in the engine compartment fuse box. I started getting a lot of strange issues back in 2015 and when the truck would refuse to start after a lot of cranking and then would start no problem a few hours later I started to suspect it wasn't the pump. I also put a gauge on the fuel line and could see the pressure was zero and was not hearing the whirring noise from the tank when the key was turned to the on position but not started. but back to all the strange issues. it turns out that all the electro-mechanical things (like relays) were degrading. If the truck was in a mood and wouldn't start, I could thump that relay and like magic the truck would start on the first crank. I replaced it and haven't had an issue since. Being curious, I carefully opened the bad relay and saw how the contacts were glazed over with black deposits. After seeing that, I decided to just replace all the relays in that box. All the mystery issues have gone away now. On another note, a lot of rubber and a few other electro-mechanical things failed on me also. there is a exhaust gas valve or solenoid near the break master cylinder that had a similar issue and was throwing engine codes indicating emissions control which made my truck fail state inspections. Long story short, Ford didn't make this truck to last forever. delicate electronics and formerly robust rubber hoses start to degrade but the good news is a lot of these things are easy to get your hands on way before you try and pull the tank down which I also attempted at first but stopped short when a friend recommended looking at the fuel pressure first. that suggestion saved me so much headache and sent me down the correct and much less hassle path.
Great video matt 👍 I've been trying to figure out this problem for over a year, sometimes the truck wouldn't start sometimes it would intermittent problem couldn't figure it out until I saw this video... you rock dude.👍👍👍
Same exact scenario. 125,000 miles on my lariat f-150 with the jump doors. Started looking into wires and came across your video, went back and saw literally the same corrosion pattern on mine. I am picking up the part tomorrow. I am from upstate NY and it’s been raining like Seattle here for the whole half of the year. Hopefully I can update with a solid fix.
Will the fuel pump kick on when you turn the key if the fuel rail pressure sensor is stuck high? My Ford would not start until I used starter fluid and it has been running ever since. Thinking it shook that sensor to make it work normal again. The fuel tank is too far away to here from the cockpit (RV).
This video was a godsend, thank you for posting. I was having the exact same problems and was gonna replace the fuel pressure sensor before I watched this video. Checked my module and yep broked and full of corrosion replaced it and truck runs like a top, again thank you.
I owe you. 04 150 died on me yesterday. I was thinking fuel pump but came upon your video, while searching videos to replace fuel pump $100 later put a new mod on and I'm back in business.
Thank you sir. Your video saved me hundred of dollars. I never would have looked there until I saw this and yes indeed my module was hanging and shot to hell. It took me five minutes to fix.
I recently had a no crank no start issue and I was checking online and saw to check this. Ended up being my starter but my fpdm was corroded like that. At least it wont be an issue down the road now that I have a new one.
I’ve seen other f150 guys disconnected the bed and lifting it a bit to have access to the fuel cap/fuel pump assembly. Great idea here, I’ve been having the PITA P0174 for quite some time, it comes and goes but mostly it throws a code on start up. I will try my fuel pressure later to see what kind of pressure I’m getting, then I’ll check that part. TY sir! I appreciate you sharing the info here! 🙏🏼
Just make sure you check the location of the fuel pump relative to the bed before lifting the bed off. In my case, even if I took the bed off I would not be able to access the fuel pump, it's under the cab. Thanks for the comment and best of luck on your troubleshooting.
Hey, Thanks a lot for this! My problem is that the car suddenly cranks but not firing...There is no pressure in the fuel rail,but I still can hear the fuel pump running
Great video Im late but the information was on time. Watching the past during the present. Yes now its back to the future. Thank you sir for being a blessing to others.
Mine wouldn't start or would only run for a few seconds really badly, a wire bundle to the air compressor and alternator was riding right against the alternator body and grounded out I guess but as long as I moved that wire it was fine. I also had to unplug my VCT solenoids on both sides. It runs better but dies at idle sometimes. I have to keep a little rev on the gas at stops.
We make these simple things so hard on ourselves sometimes, my truck died and suspect fuel pump sending unit, took it off, it seems good, the original was replaced years ago. check the relay was good, I decided to check the wire connection, what I found was that the ground wire was rusted off, reinstalled the ground strap, truck fired up. So anyone before, throwing parts check the simple things first. I have learned if it cranks it is the ground. Also, the ford sending fuel pump unit is redesign to withstand the elements. It is pricy but worth it down the road.
I have a 91 e350 fuel injected. The front pump intermittently wont come on. (Has the dual tanks) The back one was cutting out while driving and stopped working altogether. The front one now doesnt always come on but if I cycle the key from off to accessory a few times I can eventually hear the pump kick on. I was ready to drop the tank but good call I'll check the other stuff first! Is there just one relay or two? Theres a toggle switch under the dash to select which tank.
I know this is an old video but my goodness! I am going to try this. Would a bad fuel pump driver module cause the schrader valve to not release fuel? Really trying to figure out if I just wasnt depressing it hard enough for if the fuel pump driver module could also hault all fuel in the line so the schrader valve is essentially empty because of no pressure from the module. If this works, I will also seriously venmo you kind sir!
Thanks for the pointer. I’m in the uk and no garages would have found this. Mine wasn’t even corroded through and I got a po191 code but the two bottom pins were crusty, stuck a new unit on,(sent by rock auto in 2 days) and it’s right as rain, so my two pennies would be to check your unit against a known good one off a friends or neighbours truck (they aren’t as plentiful over here).
That's a good call, to check it off a known good one, if you can find one. Glad to hear that it helped, and wish you the best! Thanks for watching and chiming in. -Matt
Great video Matthew.My 99 F 150 5.4 cranking over but not starting.Can you tell me if my 99 has the FPDM on it and what fusses should be checked ?Thanks.
FYI. For those who come after, they only started after 2004 with the fpdm. Check the 301 relay and the#10 fuse next to the battery. Check the fuel filter. Finally Check the wiring from thy harness to the pump. If this is all ok, it might be the pump.
Thanks for the very informative video, my fuel pump driver module had a hole eat through all the way to the connector, cleaned up the connector and replaced the module and it fired right up and runs fine.
Did the trick struggle at all like for fuel before it went out or did it just go out ? My truck is missing and jupping but once i get up to 55 or 60 it smooths out ive replace the coil packs plugs mass airflow sensor and before i replaced the max airflow sensor it ran horribly now its slightly missing and smooths on out at 55 also changed the fuel filter
I rate this youtute 10 on 10 scale, Why? because of the important relevant information. Great Job Matthew, very helpful, Thank You and keep up the good work.
@@capnmatt41 hey I have a question I I looked for the fuel module under spare tire not there I have a2002 f150 Triton and as I go to start it up and go it will shut down but you can hear the pump kik on its getting fire to it done check it out I am just thinking it may be a week pump what you think it doing just as your truck done
Good video. I've run across the same thing. Anywhere you put aluminum against steel there will be a problem (Ever had to pry your wheels off the hubs?)Also who designed a module and put it on the frame? What are engineers/designers thinking? The wires ran from the front anyway, why not put the module under the hood where there is less chance of moisture.
I have one of these trucks in the middle of the jungle in Guatemala and have been fighting fuel pump issues for 3 months now with no success. I managed to get a hold of a brand new fuel pump module but either it's not grounding correctly or it's not receiving commands from the computer. I use jumper wires on the connector pin two to five and three to four like you say in the video and the truck starts and runs. I left it in there and tried to drive down the street but after 2 or 3 times maybe 10 minutes total running the brand new Bosch fuel pump burnt out. Is it safe to assume that the fuel pump was under too much stress because there is no return line? Is there no way to Jimmy rig this thing to work? I'm on dirt roads in the middle of the jungle maybe 15 mile per hour max speed, I'm just looking for a way to make it start.
I replaced mine few months ago just to ba safe the old one worked good....now im.gwtting fuel pressure sensor code and truck bearly starts and drives. Replaced the sensor still same thing. So wonder if the fuel module failed the aftermarket one
I have the same problem tonight paid a hundred bucks to get a tow home then I started doing RUclips research found your video watched it one of the my truck and saw the same thing that you described now I get to pay another $100 for the new part I was no more than a half-mile from the parts store for my original breakdown if I knew what the problem was I could have walked to the store bought the part just plugged it in so I can get home then actually install it the right way oh well good video and appreciate the help
Matthew Rowell finger video when you explain where it was and what yours look like I actually positive video I ran outside and my case was all rotted falling apart too
Thanks for this information.. Because tomorrow I have to check a friend 2002 f150 for fuel pump issues. He drove it home parked it under the carport and it wouldn't crank back up. Its been sitting in same spot for nearly 3 years now. So this might be the problem he been having losing pressure and restarting back up.
galvanic corrosion, you cant have aluminum mounted to metal without some type of insulation in between, I cant believe engineers would even do that except knowing it will fail eventually so you have to purchase another one.
Thanks for the video. Very informative, very surprised that Ford Engineers would fail to consider the effects of electrolysis and dissimilar metals. You must live where they salt the roads in winter. What are the miles on your truck?
On the 01 F150. In the outside fuse block. The pump fuse is #10 on the lid. Starting at the top left fuse and count down the left row towards yourself the 5th fuse in that row. The pump relay is marked in the Lid as #301. On that F.P. driver module. The stand offs are ok. But if your running with your spare in the bed. Though it's not much. It's still hanging out in the air. My luck will be anything like a rock or hunk of break pad. Will fly up and bulls eye that module. Much like a expensive electronic device will protect it's ten cent fuse by burning up instead. Just tape up the connections and spray paint the aluminum case. If you have that rubberized paint even better. . As long as you tighten the screws or bolts using lock washers if it's the bolt type. I always use either the low torque lock tite or whatever fingernail polish you can get pretty cheap. Paint the threads and once it dries your pretty safe.
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Mathew YOU ARE THE MAN!!! i can not thank you enough for posting this video...I was a minute away from calling a tow truck to have my sons F150 towed to my mechanic to have the fuel pump replaced but fortunately i checked RUclips first and came across ur video. Mathew you truly saved me a ton of money and time...it turned out be the FPDM and my son followed your video and replaced it quickly, easily and inexpensively...you made my boy and me extremely happy to have his truck back on the road.. I really can not thank you enough....a million thank yous to you Mathew!!! keep up the good work...i owe you a beer or two!!
This totally energizes me, Chris! Thanks for taking the time to leave that reply. Do me a favor and pay those beers forward to make someone's day.
09 & 10 F150 are 55-65 psi at idle according the to Haynes manual. The only years that are this high for some reason. Mine is a 2010 Lariat.
Great video. I had the same problem with one at my work, which saved me a lot of work and time. Thank you
6 years later I want to say thanks for making this video!!! Saved me so many hours of frustration and diagnosis!!!
You bet! Glad it helped and thanks for your comment.
just saved me hours!
I appreciate the video. 6 years later and your still helping people. I went through a auto car wash and my truck cut off. I made it home eventually lol. It cut off about 6 times. Luckily I wasn’t too far. Found your video, dropped my spare and my module was cracked in half. I guess the water spraying under the truck was the last straw. Headed to parts store now to get a new one. Thanks again.
I have a 2010 F-150. I could see the module without dropping the tire. Got underneath the truck in front of the passenger side back tire with a flashlight and could see it. Fortunately the module looks OK. In my case my fuel pump went bad a month or so ago when we were camping. Someone camping down the lot has decades of experience with Fords and helped me diagnose. We got it running an back home. He checked the fuses and they looked good. Had the fuel pump replaced and thought I was done. Last week got a wrench light and truck has been shutting off when in stop and go traffic. Found out yesterday about the fuse issue. Basically the wire to the #27 fuse cannot handle the load and the fuse melts. Ran a wire to a new fuse in a different slot and all is well. Was glad to see this video just to make sure we do not have any more issues!
WTG! Saved the day! It's Christmas Eve and thought for sure my fuel pump went out. Turned out it was the fpsm and instead of an all day project and $200 it was a ten min project and $100! God bless you real good!
Awesome! Glad it helped, thanks for sharing, and Merry Christmas!
You hit the nail on the head!! I thought it was a fuel pump and thank God i watched your video. I dropped my tire and found the FPDM broken in half. I replaced it for $105 and was back on the road in 10 min. You saved me a tow and who knows how much the mechanic would of charged to diagnose and probably start with the pump!! You're the man
So happy to have helped, thanks for commenting!
Was the truck throwing codes?
damn well my 07 king ranch was running fine and outta no where power up and down then cut off, i saw this video and change the module it cranks but dies, changed fuel filter and even press the red button still no fuel.. cud it be the pump or those two harnesses under the driver side
Well done sir! I had the exact same problem with my 2007 Ford F150 and had to have it towed to a repair shop. Fortunately (or unfortunately for them) they had experienced COVID and could not diagnose my truck for another week. I started searching on RUclips as I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump myself, and found your video! The rest is history; I purchased a new driver at O'Reilly's and had it installed in 20 minutes, (the old one looked exactly like yours and fell apart as it was being removed!) And now the truck runs perfectly again! Thank you! I am sure you saved me several hundred dollars in repairs, plus a week or more without my vehicle, because the likelihood that they would start with the fuel pump and work back from there was a distinct possibility! Thank you once again for a great video!
Dude! So glad it worked out!
My Brother-in-law's 06 F150 was running bad yesterday and this morning it would not start. It's been raining here like crazy the last couple days. He called me about changing the fuel pump, came on youtube and saw this video. Pulled the Fuel Pump Driver Module and it was falling apart, the back side was pretty much gone. Put a new one on and the truck started right up. Thank you so much for posting this video.
That is AWESOME! Thanks for sharing your story.
Saved me a ton of time and effort. My 2009 F150 work truck wouldn't start and thought it was a bad fuel pump. Ended up being a bad relay! Thanks! Got a new sub for life!
Where do I find that relay ???
Shout out to Matthew and the youtubers he got his information from. I was about to purchase a fuel pump and drop a full tank. I stumbled on this clip by chance and glad I did. I removed the part I was not aware existed, cleaned the contacts with lube and emery cloth, plugged it in and boom it worked. I did go purchase a new part after. This saved me time and money for a part that wouldn't have fixed the problem.
Look at all that corrosion on the frame rails. You must live in a northern state where winters are bad. A good video to help others out. Fords idea of putting aluminum on steel was a great one.
I appreciate folks like you sharing their experiences with the rest of us shade tree mechanics regarding vehicle maintenance. Thank you for posting and God Bless...
Need a blessing
Sir: Your video, though 5 years old, I found to be a Godsend. I am currently experiencing almost the exact same problem you had 5 years ago in how the problem came to your attention. We each own the same vehicle, only my Lariat is a 2004, yours an ‘05. Was running strong and normally when last week began idling VERY rough and then engine light came on. Managed to get home with stall-outs every 1/4 mile (Fortunately I was close to home and did check oil level, which seems normal.) And, like you, my suspicion is bad fuel pump and/or fuel filter. Unfortunately, NOT a cheap repair (the pump anyway), if you’re a Non-Gearhead like me and at the mercy of whom you hope is an honest (if not expensive) mechanic.
Fortunately, I did receive one Pearl from an acquaintance who is a lifelong master mechanic, certified in everything a mechanic can be ASC certified in….and then some. A living, breathing encyclopedia of all things automotive/mechanical. I pointed out to him that aftermarket fuel filters can be had at any of the major online retailers (A specific one comes to mind!), and via the websites of the chain automotive parts retailers- for as little as $45. He immediately told me “No!” and that these cheap, foreign-manufactured fuel pumps are basically inexpensive junk and rarely last beyond 6 months. The Ford OEM fuel pump runs in the neighborhood of $480.00, but this was one instance where buying the factory part is the wiser decision. (Assuming this is the problem with my truck!?) As you stated, just getting access to the fuel pump on these model trucks is a major pain (even for the mechanic), and I certainly don’t wish to repeat the process in 6 months because I requested installation of inferior parts. Like myself, I’m assuming you really like your truck. Mine has been reliable and dependable up to this current problem. Unfortunately, new ones are $~50,000. Who can afford that.
I will definitely ask if it’s possibly the fuel pump service module, based upon your experience and recommendation. Thank you for your helpful videos. Happy and safe travels.
Thanks for all that, Andy!!
I hope it works out for you and I definitely agree on choosing when to buy the OEM parts.
Sadly, my F150 grew a crack in the frame a few years ago and have since sold it.
Good luck brother!
This is one of the videos I came across that saved me a lot of labor. THANK YOU.
I'm glad I came across this video as this is was the exact culprit to my truck not wanting to start on random occasions. I checked under the spare tire location and the aluminum housing was cracked twisted and buckled. The back plate of the housing had a large curved crack that somehow got pushed in close to the circuit board. It was so close that the corrosion was transferred and built up onto the soldered components. I broke away all the frail housing wiped the board clean and the truck started perfectly fine. I temporarily stuck it in a ziploc bag and sealed the entire thing with electrical tape as a temporary solution. Thanks for the video was really helpful.
Thanks for the info. Sure wish youtube was around when I was young, lucky to have known a lot of helpful people and we had some decent repair books.
This is amazing content, thank you for sharing. The amount of money and more importantly time this may save me is truly appreciated. Will update. Same day update: Inspected part and while not nearly as corroded as your video it was definitely on the path. Replaced and mounted with bushing and the truck started very smoothly with little to no excessive vibration. Thanks again!
You're welcome!
Hope it works for you.
Perfect vid. Right to the point. You have probably helped hundreds of dudes out there who do their own work.
Yeah, lots of people have reached out saying how much trouble it saved them.
I'm very happy about that. Thanks!
I want to thank you. I barely made it to work with the exact symptoms you described. Coldest day of the year I crawled under the truck in the parking lot on a friday night after working all day and fixed it and it’s been perfect since. Again a million thanks
That's awesome, you're welcome, so glad it helped.
Thank you for taking the time to explain this! I have a 2000 f150 that seemingly needs a fuel pump but now hopefully it's the FPDM. Fingers crossed.
Wow did you save me some work! Mine was rotted in half ready to fall of the frame! Thank YOU! Have a beer on me.
Matthew, your video really saved my day. I was thinking fuel pump, but odd, since it would run strong, until it wouldn't. I didn't even know about the driver. Mine looked like yours. I replaced that and the fuel filter, and it seems to be the issue. It's running like it should now.
Thank you so much for this! Had mine go out completely today in a snowstorm. Got it back rolling again! It feels like it has more power than it has in awhile now!
Nice! Go celebrate with some donuts!
I would like to also thank you, howbeit 6 years later, honestly I wasn't even aware of a fuel pump drive module. Located mines and saw how it was kind of rigged up. unplugged it, plugged it in , crawled from under the truck (longest part of this whole process 🤣), turned the key and started right up. So Thank you sir! I know there may still be an issue with the FPDM, will do some more diagnostics on the wires, connector and module.
This video saved me a ton of time, energy, and money. Exactly what was wrong with my 2005 F150. It’s a joke Ford hasn’t had a recall about this. Thanks.
Thank you so much for posting this video. You have saved me a lot of time, effort and money. Your diagnosis was spot on for my truck. I replaced that desentigrating module and it started right up and runs fine. Again, many thanks!!
Matt, Your video saved me a lot of messing around. Thank you very much, back on the road after a quick 1/2 hour repair!
So awesome! Glad it helped
We were in the mountains at hunting camp, 45 minutes off the main road and way back in the woods, when my fuel pump went up. Or so I thought. I was trying to figure out how in the heck I was going to get my truck out of the woods, which was just the first problem. Watched this video and decided to give it a try. HALLELUJAH Thanks to you and this video, I was able to drive the truck out. THANKS FOR SAVING ME A TON OF MONEY 💰💰💰
How'd you fix it in the woods? Or were you able to get out of there in another vehicle to get the part? Regardless, I'm stoked that it helped out!
Thank you for this video. My truck was doing the same thing. I thought fuel pump, was fixing to get it towed. Saw this video and started here first. It worked😊 so easy took me about 5 mins to change it. Thanks so much you saved me some money🙌
That. Is. Awesome.
So glad it helped, really.
I am so glad that you did all of this. I learn from others mistakes and victories. I have been pulling my hair out with trying to figure out this problem. I even went as far as getting a remanufactured pcm brain and having it programmed to my truck. It ran perfect for 2 months after that, just lucky. It’s the same problem all over again and then i seen your video. Thank you so much. Same actual problem
This is a good video! This should be what RUclips is all about! A guy with smarts and common sense explaining something clearly.
Thanks Matt!
Best video because my truck has done this for a year. Spending money to same results. Thanks! Feel confident this will fix it!
Great video, this was totally my problem too. Was thinking I had a bad fuel pump but wanted to do all the diagnostics before going to that extreme. So in the 30 seconds it took me to drop the spare, my FPDM looked exactly like yours.
Thanks for filming this fix!
I parked last night and with zero warning this morning my 2008 would not turn over. Figuring a fuel issue I managed to find this video within an hour of looking messing around. Tapped the fuel pump driver module a little and it started on the next crank.
Hey I would just like to say thank u very much. My 04 f150 had been acting up off and on and I thought it was poor fuel most of the time. Upon inspection after I watched your video, I reached in wheel well and removed some of the back plate from module!!! Again thank u🙏🙏
Glad it helped!
I remember when the fuel pump was on the side of the bottom of the block. So easy to take off only to bolts to deal with ! always a ford owner. but this is why I don't like how the change things to make it harder to work on yourself. So you have to take it to the dealership !
I also remember the 2 bolts and a couple hoses on the fuel pump on my old CJ-7.
I challenge the 'new cars are hard to work on', mainly since you can plug in and see sensor values real-time.
Barreth Ford f150 you're good for about 5 minutes then it act like it runs out of gasit'll sit there for just a little while I'll Crank it up it'll go about a half a mile and then quit again act like it runs out of gas I let it sit for a little while you break up it go for about a half mile if already put a fuel rail pressure sensor own that was $140 now I guess I'll put a fuel pump it's $250 never take a look at that module is above the spare tire
@@billywhitejr6707 Did you check your air control valve ! That could be the problem! My 2000 150! Was acting like it would want to die and that was the problem it located on top of the engine
THANK YOU!!! This video saved me hours and $100. I was about to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump! So glad I watched this first.
I stumbled across your video searching for symptoms for my 06 Lincoln mark lt. every time I would step on the gas my truck would feel like it was chocking, and my fuel range decreased from 14mpg to 10. So I change the fuel filter thinking it was that but it didn’t. Work. So I thought it was the fuel injectors or fuel pump until I seen your video. Wow I had never heard of the fuel module but that was the problem..thanks man!
Juan Torres same here brother. Ya couldn’t work it out was about to do fuel rail pressure sensor next.
I was prepared to replace my fuel pump on my 06 F 150 until I saw you video, so I checked and my fuel pump driver looked just like yours. I replaced it and now it starts and runs fine. Thanks for sharing, you saved me from replacing a fuel pump with all that extra work for nothing.
That's why I put the video up. Stoked that it helped you out, thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the info! Saved me 300.00 on a new fuel pump and saved me a bunch of work. I have a 2005 f150 also. I checked the fuel pump module like you said and sure enough the back side of it was corroded and exposing the circuit board. I changed the module and have had no problems since. Thanks again!
Shawn, that's so awesome, thank you for sharing.
By the way, before changing the fuel filter with those spring fittings, spray some lubricant into the end of the fitting to wet it.
That area of the vehicle gets covered with everything it drives through.
Use fuel line release tool and a flat bladed screwdriver as a lever to help push the release tool under/into the retaining spring connection, then you should be able to separate the line from the fuel filter.
I scribe my mileage into the filter housing and when it rusts later I can see it clearly, better than paint markers.
Right on, hot tips! Those connectors can be a pain in the neck. Thanks!
I always gotta spray the crap out of them with carb cleaner/pb blaster a few times to get all the crap out and make em start moving enough to release
Thanks buddy, 6am here went to start my truck to go to work and I have a no start, no fuel pump sound issue.
Fuses and relay good, I’ll check this next and post back.
Did it fix your issue?
@@mattwalmer66 i think so, he never came back to complain it didnt work lol. Months later. :)
absolutely great info man thank you sooo much. i had to learn the hard way after dropping a full 28gal tank and replacing the fuel pump... only to have my ford dye again on me 65miles from home. thank god i found your video before giving up on my truck. May blessings find you and yours.
Sincerely, Veloci Philoso
Dude! I can only imagine the feeling of doing all that work to replace the pump to find out it wasn't the cause of the problem... but I'm glad this helped.
thanks so much for your video! after a $325.00 tow today and a lost day of work i found your vid and lo and behold my module looked worse than yours. slapped a new one on, works fine and i'm going to work tomorrow to re-koop my money! thanks
''Keep the alum case off the steel frame'' That is a must!! In the north, or anywhere, the hwy dept uses salt on the roads you'll get alot of corrosion on that alum case! I've had that very same issue on a 2007 F150, got the spare tire off (that was the hardest part of the job) changing out the module took less than 15min.! Remember to put anti-seize and lock washers on your new bolts, makes the job easier for next time!
Thank you for this video. My truck died on me the other day and this is exactly what the problem was. Replaced it and my truck runs so much better its crazy
Awesome! So glad it helped.
Bro! You seriously saved me a LOT of headache with this!
Thank you very much.
Before using the scissor tool to disconnect a fuel line, be sure to get a lot of penetrating fluid into the connection.
Once you get the scissor tool inserted as far as it will go, gently put a pair of vice grips behind it so it can't work its way backwards. Then gently put a pair of visegrips on the part of the fuel line that you are going to be pulling off, and use that visegrip to pull the fuel line away.
Great Tip!
Thanks, I was looking for a video that says the pump is supposed to make noise when key turned on. I couldn't hear it when my 2013 failed but am sure I remember hearing it before. I have a 2018 too and that definitely does make that sound and its very noticeable so I am not sure if the 2013 does or not.
My uncle is a mechanic and recommended I put a screwdriver up to my ear and press it on the tank while someone turns the ignition on (not to start just on) and I could hear it hum twice but was much quieter than I think it should be.
My issue is we could hear a rattle starting while under load or while tapping the gas but only while driving. Not related to engine speed while still. The next day the engine cranks but wont start. Faint fuel smell on the dipstick, checked relays and fuses. Put Ifixd bluetooth code reader on and it reads P0230 ECM has detected a fault in the fuel pump circuit but the dash never showed a code. I re-seated the fuel pump drive module and beat it a few times, still no go. Hoping it is that and I could try to bypass it to test first or meter the output. I hope its just the drive module as that seems to be very common. Most of the fuel pump issues seem to be related to the sending of the fuel level.
Thanks, I have a 2003 F-150, 5.4 and having some intermittant issues and throwing a couple codes. Each PO171 and PO 174 included the MAP sensor. So, I reinstalled the original MAP sensor I replaced the last time I had a code similar. I found a VAC line leak was the culprit but left the new MAP sensor in place. On a hunch I reinstalled the old MAP sensor and the truck runs fine however, I do know about that fuel pump driver and if it dies you are stuck. So will replace soon as regular maintenance.
I had similar symptoms with my 99 f-150 and it turned out to be the relay that drives the fuel pump. In my case that relay was under the hood in the engine compartment fuse box. I started getting a lot of strange issues back in 2015 and when the truck would refuse to start after a lot of cranking and then would start no problem a few hours later I started to suspect it wasn't the pump. I also put a gauge on the fuel line and could see the pressure was zero and was not hearing the whirring noise from the tank when the key was turned to the on position but not started. but back to all the strange issues. it turns out that all the electro-mechanical things (like relays) were degrading. If the truck was in a mood and wouldn't start, I could thump that relay and like magic the truck would start on the first crank. I replaced it and haven't had an issue since. Being curious, I carefully opened the bad relay and saw how the contacts were glazed over with black deposits. After seeing that, I decided to just replace all the relays in that box. All the mystery issues have gone away now. On another note, a lot of rubber and a few other electro-mechanical things failed on me also. there is a exhaust gas valve or solenoid near the break master cylinder that had a similar issue and was throwing engine codes indicating emissions control which made my truck fail state inspections. Long story short, Ford didn't make this truck to last forever. delicate electronics and formerly robust rubber hoses start to degrade but the good news is a lot of these things are easy to get your hands on way before you try and pull the tank down which I also attempted at first but stopped short when a friend recommended looking at the fuel pressure first. that suggestion saved me so much headache and sent me down the correct and much less hassle path.
Great video matt 👍 I've been trying to figure out this problem for over a year, sometimes the truck wouldn't start sometimes it would intermittent problem couldn't figure it out until I saw this video... you rock dude.👍👍👍
Awesome, so glad it helped
Same exact scenario. 125,000 miles on my lariat f-150 with the jump doors. Started looking into wires and came across your video, went back and saw literally the same corrosion pattern on mine. I am picking up the part tomorrow. I am from upstate NY and it’s been raining like Seattle here for the whole half of the year. Hopefully I can update with a solid fix.
Yep fixed it, this video saved me hours of my life, keep doing it! And if I fix something without googling it myself I promise I will do the same...
Thanks Matt. My truck is quite a bit older, 1995 but it has all the symptoms of a bad relay. Ill start there.
Thanks! We had issues with my husband's truck watched this video and was able to quickly repair our vehicle.
2014 f150 3.5 xlt, this video was spot on , saved me $600 most likely
Will the fuel pump kick on when you turn the key if the fuel rail pressure sensor is stuck high? My Ford would not start until I used starter fluid and it has been running ever since. Thinking it shook that sensor to make it work normal again. The fuel tank is too far away to here from the cockpit (RV).
E-450 2003 motor home
Thank you for the video. My truck just started having the same problem. This really helped get me back on the road.
Great to hear!
This video was a godsend, thank you for posting. I was having the exact same problems and was gonna replace the fuel pressure sensor before I watched this video. Checked my module and yep broked and full of corrosion replaced it and truck runs like a top, again thank you.
Awesome, so glad it helped!
I owe you. 04 150 died on me yesterday. I was thinking fuel pump but came upon your video, while searching videos to replace fuel pump $100 later put a new mod on and I'm back in business.
Thank you sir. Your video saved me hundred of dollars. I never would have looked there until I saw this and yes indeed my module was hanging and shot to hell. It took me five minutes to fix.
Awesome! Glad it helped, Charles!
Thank you! Fixed mine today, back on the road again. Saved me $$ and time thank you very much 👌🏻
I recently had a no crank no start issue and I was checking online and saw to check this. Ended up being my starter but my fpdm was corroded like that. At least it wont be an issue down the road now that I have a new one.
Glad you found this, good preventative maintenance.
I’ve seen other f150 guys disconnected the bed and lifting it a bit to have access to the fuel cap/fuel pump assembly.
Great idea here, I’ve been having the PITA P0174 for quite some time, it comes and goes but mostly it throws a code on start up. I will try my fuel pressure later to see what kind of pressure I’m getting, then I’ll check that part. TY sir! I appreciate you sharing the info here! 🙏🏼
Just make sure you check the location of the fuel pump relative to the bed before lifting the bed off. In my case, even if I took the bed off I would not be able to access the fuel pump, it's under the cab.
Thanks for the comment and best of luck on your troubleshooting.
Bedankt
Thanks for the video. I was about to replace the fuel pump, then after I watched this, it was just like you said. My truck runs good again
Hey, Thanks a lot for this! My problem is that the car suddenly cranks but not firing...There is no pressure in the fuel rail,but I still can hear the fuel pump running
just replaced mine based on your shared experience.solved 95% of the issue.
Good luck with the last 5% !!
Outstanding. Had the same issue 3 times. Good crank, but won't turn over. Thought fuel, then found a burnt up fuel pump relay fuse. Thanks man!
Glad it helped
Great video Im late but the information was on time. Watching the past during the present. Yes now its back to the future. Thank you sir for being a blessing to others.
Very kind comment, thanks so much!
Your awesome be sitting 5 hours today trying to figure my 05 ford out and you help thanks greatly
Glad it helped!
Mine wouldn't start or would only run for a few seconds really badly, a wire bundle to the air compressor and alternator was riding right against the alternator body and grounded out I guess but as long as I moved that wire it was fine. I also had to unplug my VCT solenoids on both sides. It runs better but dies at idle sometimes. I have to keep a little rev on the gas at stops.
We make these simple things so hard on ourselves sometimes, my truck died and suspect fuel pump sending unit, took it off, it seems good, the original was replaced years ago. check the relay was good, I decided to check the wire connection, what I found was that the ground wire was rusted off, reinstalled the ground strap, truck fired up.
So anyone before, throwing parts check the simple things first.
I have learned if it cranks it is the ground.
Also, the ford sending fuel pump unit is redesign to withstand the elements. It is pricy but worth it down the road.
I have a 1998 ford f150 single cab long wheel base. What wire do I check and were is it?? How do I check it?? Any help thanks!
Yea, letting us know what ground wire and where would have helped man.
rejmonwilson need more info.....help us^^^^
I have a 91 e350 fuel injected. The front pump intermittently wont come on. (Has the dual tanks) The back one was cutting out while driving and stopped working altogether. The front one now doesnt always come on but if I cycle the key from off to accessory a few times I can eventually hear the pump kick on. I was ready to drop the tank but good call I'll check the other stuff first! Is there just one relay or two? Theres a toggle switch under the dash to select which tank.
All good advice. I have F250 Ecab and a ranger Ecab. Both have had fuel pumps installed. Expensive repair..
I know this is an old video but my goodness! I am going to try this. Would a bad fuel pump driver module cause the schrader valve to not release fuel? Really trying to figure out if I just wasnt depressing it hard enough for if the fuel pump driver module could also hault all fuel in the line so the schrader valve is essentially empty because of no pressure from the module. If this works, I will also seriously venmo you kind sir!
Thanks for the pointer.
I’m in the uk and no garages would have found this.
Mine wasn’t even corroded through and I got a po191 code but the two bottom pins were crusty, stuck a new unit on,(sent by rock auto in 2 days) and it’s right as rain, so my two pennies would be to check your unit against a known good one off a friends or neighbours truck (they aren’t as plentiful over here).
That's a good call, to check it off a known good one, if you can find one. Glad to hear that it helped, and wish you the best!
Thanks for watching and chiming in. -Matt
Great video Matthew.My 99 F 150 5.4 cranking over but not starting.Can you tell me if my 99 has the FPDM on it and what fusses should be checked ?Thanks.
Sorry man, I'm not that familiar.
FYI. For those who come after, they only started after 2004 with the fpdm. Check the 301 relay and the#10 fuse next to the battery. Check the fuel filter. Finally Check the wiring from thy harness to the pump. If this is all ok, it might be the pump.
Thanks for the very informative video, my fuel pump driver module had a hole eat through all the way to the connector, cleaned up the connector and replaced the module and it fired right up and runs fine.
Right on, LeRoy. Glad it helped!
Did the trick struggle at all like for fuel before it went out or did it just go out ? My truck is missing and jupping but once i get up to 55 or 60 it smooths out ive replace the coil packs plugs mass airflow sensor and before i replaced the max airflow sensor it ran horribly now its slightly missing and smooths on out at 55 also changed the fuel filter
huge help that is exactly what mine was doing I didn't know about that part, changed it works great now, thanks a million !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you.
I have a 2006 F150 5.4 with 230k miles.
Repair at shop in NY including tow. $750
Thanks for the heads up Matt!
That case went full sacrificial anode! lol
I rate this youtute 10 on 10 scale, Why? because of the important relevant information. Great Job Matthew, very helpful, Thank You and keep up the good work.
Thanks Kory! Spreading kindness through the Internet. Weird. Appreciate it!
Might just be a lifesaver same symptoms about drop tank but I'll check this component out asap thx
@@capnmatt41 hey I have a question I I looked for the fuel module under spare tire not there I have a2002 f150 Triton and as I go to start it up and go it will shut down but you can hear the pump kik on its getting fire to it done check it out I am just thinking it may be a week pump what you think it doing just as your truck done
@@capnmatt41 under the spare tire it has a long black box on top of the real
Good video. I've run across the same thing. Anywhere you put aluminum against steel there will be a problem (Ever had to pry your wheels off the hubs?)Also who designed a module and put it on the frame? What are engineers/designers thinking? The wires ran from the front anyway, why not put the module under the hood where there is less chance of moisture.
It's hard to know all the considerations that automotive engineers face, but yeah, this one is perplexing.
I've got a 02 f150. No noise from pump. And no start. If the driver module is replaced. Will it make the fuel pump make noise If it's the module???
What all years is this relavent for, 05+? Older too or no?
I have one of these trucks in the middle of the jungle in Guatemala and have been fighting fuel pump issues for 3 months now with no success. I managed to get a hold of a brand new fuel pump module but either it's not grounding correctly or it's not receiving commands from the computer. I use jumper wires on the connector pin two to five and three to four like you say in the video and the truck starts and runs. I left it in there and tried to drive down the street but after 2 or 3 times maybe 10 minutes total running the brand new Bosch fuel pump burnt out. Is it safe to assume that the fuel pump was under too much stress because there is no return line? Is there no way to Jimmy rig this thing to work? I'm on dirt roads in the middle of the jungle maybe 15 mile per hour max speed, I'm just looking for a way to make it start.
I replaced mine few months ago just to ba safe the old one worked good....now im.gwtting fuel pressure sensor code and truck bearly starts and drives. Replaced the sensor still same thing. So wonder if the fuel module failed the aftermarket one
I have the same problem tonight paid a hundred bucks to get a tow home then I started doing RUclips research found your video watched it one of the my truck and saw the same thing that you described now I get to pay another $100 for the new part I was no more than a half-mile from the parts store for my original breakdown if I knew what the problem was I could have walked to the store bought the part just plugged it in so I can get home then actually install it the right way oh well good video and appreciate the help
I'm happy it all worked out, and for much cheaper than having a shop dig into it for you.
Matthew Rowell finger video when you explain where it was and what yours look like I actually positive video I ran outside and my case was all rotted falling apart too
Does the fuel pump turn on with the bad Fpdm? Were u able to hear it turn on?
2012 f150 acts like it's out of gas
Mine actually stars but dies right away
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Keep doing these. You are very easy to understand. 🙏🏼💚
Glad you like them!
I have a Ford 150 year 1999 and facing the same problem. Should I replace the same part instead of Fuel pump? Please guide me
Great info, THANKS. Had the same problem, saw this video and checked the driver module and that was it.
That's so awesome, thanks for the feedback, I'm happy this helped.
is there a fuel pump driver module on the diesel engine version?
Thanks for this information.. Because tomorrow I have to check a friend 2002 f150 for fuel pump issues. He drove it home parked it under the carport and it wouldn't crank back up. Its been sitting in same spot for nearly 3 years now. So this might be the problem he been having losing pressure and restarting back up.
Good luck!
This video saved my butt. Stopped on the side of the street and was able to fix it right there. Thank you
That's awesome! Super hero of the day.
galvanic corrosion, you cant have aluminum mounted to metal without some type of insulation in between, I cant believe engineers would even do that except knowing it will fail eventually so you have to purchase another one.
Thanks for the video. Very informative, very surprised that Ford Engineers would fail to consider the effects of electrolysis and dissimilar metals. You must live where they salt the roads in winter. What are the miles on your truck?
Yes, seems like a strange oversight. Lots of salt on the roads here in NH and I probably have ~130k on Big Blue.
Your right I started to say electrolysis as well that was my guess to.
I keep mine wet with fluid film, will not rust.
I’ve got a 95 f150 but only the front tank does this. Is there one of theses things for each tank?
On the 01 F150. In the outside fuse block. The pump fuse is #10 on the lid. Starting at the top left fuse and count down the left row towards yourself the 5th fuse in that row. The pump relay is marked in the Lid as #301. On that F.P. driver module. The stand offs are ok. But if your running with your spare in the bed. Though it's not much. It's still hanging out in the air. My luck will be anything like a rock or hunk of break pad. Will fly up and bulls eye that module. Much like a expensive electronic device will protect it's ten cent fuse by burning up instead. Just tape up the connections and spray paint the aluminum case. If you have that rubberized paint even better. . As long as you tighten the screws or bolts using lock washers if it's the bolt type. I always use either the low torque lock tite or whatever fingernail polish you can get pretty cheap. Paint the threads and once it dries your pretty safe.