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2004-2008 Ford F-150 No Start DTC P1233: Fuel Pump Driver Module Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- In this video we go over a super common issue with the fuel pump driver module causing a no start due to corrosion.
These are the Parts and Supplies I Recommend:
Ford Fuel Pump Driver Module Kit-
amzn.to/2ZnUMRm
Motorcraft Electrical Grease-
amzn.to/2KYBNZN
Motorcraft High Temp Paint-
amzn.to/2KX2o9l
P1233 Fuel Pump Driver Module Diagnostics:
• 2004-2008 F150 Died Ou...
Fuel pump Driver Module Expedition-
• F150 & Expedition No S...
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
These are the Parts and Supplies I Recommend:
Ford Fuel Pump Driver Module Kit-
amzn.to/2ZnUMRm
Motorcraft Electrical Grease-
amzn.to/2KYBNZN
Motorcraft High Temp Paint-
amzn.to/2KX2o9l P1233 Fuel Pump Driver Module Diagnostics:
ruclips.net/video/C1SdHBCujAo/видео.html
Fuel pump Driver Module Expedition-
ruclips.net/video/S-ryMAsHKos/видео.html
great vid wow broke in half!!! you forgot torch spare out.lol.thanks for sharing.
@fordtechmakuloko I have a 2015 F150 5.0 with 98k miles. I'm having hard starting issues after letting it sit for 2 to 3 hours. It will take around 5 seconds to start and sputter upon startup. However, if I let it sit overnight it'll crank normally. Do you have any idea what could be causing this? It sounds like a fuel issue to me, but I'm not sure. I've also read about camshaft phaser issues that can cause improper engine timing...Any advice is appreciated.
Another awesome video. Thanks Brian. Would it really have killed them to have painted the back side of the module? Something as simple as paint does amazing things in the prevention of galvanic corrosion. Or even better, just make the body material out of plastic.
Replaced mine exactly as in the video...old one was cracked, but it still is not getting fuel. Could fuel pump have gone as well?
Can this part cause issues under wide open throttle??
You are the Man ! Ford should pay you for keeping the general public informed on how to fix their poorly engineered products. You are worth the weight in gold many times over. Thank you Sir.
Very generous and kind of you to make these videos. Most people cannot afford mechanics. Yet alone getting screwed over with no fix.
Thank you
Mine failed on a 6 hour road trip during rush hour, got the truck on the shoulder and beat the $hit out of the module with a screwdriver and it started enough to get it off the interstate. Ran like crap but luckily a parts store was close by so I managed to pick a module up and just plugged it in and let it rest up on the spare tire until I got home. Would have never known about the module if it wasn't for channels like yours so thank you for all you do!
This happened to a friend's truck...15 min fix...i came home and pulled mine off...you guessed it...was starting to come apart...removed and cleansed...coated the back side with sealer cleaned frame and installed a rubberized backing....six years ago....great content here as always...our ford friend...
I find putting rubberized backing a better fix then standoffs. With standoffs dirt and salt buildup from around here will pack itself in there and cause the same issue in less then a few years. Stand-Offs Fords lazy band-aid problem to make you buy another one in few more years when they could have just properly engineered it or made it out of all plastic to begin with.
Been there done that..was shocked how much better the truck ran when I replaced it wasn’t a cheap part from ford even with a discount still cost $140..enjoy the hell out of this channel the content you deliver is much appreciated
Wiseguy5150 Ran alit better ?? I’m going to check mine tomorrow My truck seems like it starves for full at full throttle
@@joesmith-fi1sx did you replace it? Notice a difference?
You are the best when it comes to helping us with this fuel pump issue I've had the same problem recently with my 2006 f150 5.4 Triton, at first I thought i had a fuel pump problem which i was going to change but after watching your video I went underneath the bed took the old rust fuel module pump part out, replaced it with a new one and the truck start on the first crank.....Thank God for people like you.
Thank you Brian from all us dads out there just trying to get by. Your hard work and generosity is truly a gift...again Thank you!!!!
Top notch fix! I like the extra care you take into cleaning up the area and the preparation for the new part. Well done. Thanks for being one of those who takes their job seriously, providing the best service possible! 👍👍
Someone suggested I look at that device before I went on a huge Yellowstone trip. I had asked if there was anything I should look for before my trip even though I had no problems and sure enough, when I looked at it back in 2011 (I had a 2004 model) it was corroded and popped open/cracked already! Good thing I caught that before I left for the trip. Thanks to the folks on the forum for the suggestion too.
just had to get mine done in my 2004 fx4 last month, all the tow trucks would have cost a fortune being out of town with my truck and trailer but thank God for AMA!
THANK YOU!!! After watching this video I checked my module and sure enough it was badly corroded and ready to fail. My F-150 is a 2005 with 172K miles lived in Virginia most of it's life relatively free from salt (2005-2015) and now resides in Oklahoma. I'm the original owner. Its always had synthetic oil and I've changed the plugs twice. The only problem has been one coil-over-plug failed. Thanks again, I would have never known of this problem.
Wow, what a difference salty highways make. Thanks for the video since I just checked this component out on my truck today. However, on my truck there was no rust at all...anywhere, probably because it's spent almost all its entire life in Arizona. I can see keeping this truck another 20 years in this climate. The one problem that I am having though, is all the clips to the connectors on the coils, headlamps,injectors, etc, are all broken or falling apart from the dry heat. I just received an entire pig tail set for the injectors and coils, and replacing the old ones is going to be my next project. This way here, I can get rid of all my zip ties and duct tape holding everything in place. Red Green would be proud of me.😄😄
Very good presentation, FTM. Hard to believe after all this time, the engineers don't think ahead for galvanic corrosion.
this damn thing got me right at the burger king drive thru.....she just sputtered and died.. people were cool and helped me push into a parking spot.. i plow with it so better than a snowstorm. if you live in rust country just pick one up and keep it handy.
When replacing this module make sure you check the ground cable back there, I live in Ottawa Canada 🇨🇦 .
I replaced mine and about four years later the problem was back after investigating the ground cable was rusted off, (so double-check the ground cable on the back near the fuel module.)
Good ole salt.... You're more north than I am but I know what you're talking about! People down in the southern us think we're crazy for saying "check the ground, it might be broken!" Haha.
Yep,I'm in (South) Ottawa 🇨🇦 too,when replacing mine noticed that the ground was literally hanging on by a thread. Crimped a new ring onto with lots of dielectric to slow the corrosion.
Where is the ground cable
@@marcnarmer3229 there's a few, but the main one is no more than 6-8" from the actual FPDM. There's also another main ground on the LS rear of the frame where the bumper mounts.
Thanks for this video. As a possible help to others, I had a no-start issue on my 2010 Expedition on a recent Sunday morning. Starter turned over, but no gas, no spark. Switched the start/run relay with an unused one, and it cranked right up. Lucky 3 minute diagnosis and fix (I hope). The fuse/relay box is on top of the radiator at the front of the engine compartment. The start/run relay is one of 9 identical relays in a row across the back of the box. Vehicle is driven in a seaside town where the salt air can cause or exacerbate corrosion issues, including friable corrosion. Can't say corrosion was at fault here, but it causes me to check connectors and use dielectric grease on connectors where ever I can, including the relay pins. In this case I put in a brand new relay after confirming the fix. For those wondering how I knew the injectors weren't working, there was no raw gas smell at the exhaust after the starter turned the engine over for about 10 seconds each time I turned the key; could have been the pump, or the pump module, but I looked for the simplest solution first.
THANKS AGAIN. 2nd video of yours that has saved me. '05 F150 KR, 120k. Truck would die instantly going down the road sporadically. Wait 5 min it would start up fine go maybe quarter mile and drop dead again. Local dealer had my truck for 2 weeks, they ended tightening a battery clamp and calling it good. Sitting in the Iowa cold on side of the road in February I was fed up and looked to this vid. Did some looking and My spare tire winch was busted so I had to grind it free but well worth it. That module was split in half and covered in moisture. Called up napa, got the $98 Dorman special and did the roadside repair. 4 months later, I have not had a recurrence. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Good informative video as always from a fomoco insider. Can’t believe you would get any thumbs down; really. The instructor shows you step by step procedures, with a wire schematic diagram and tells you where to find system voltage and ground on the label circuits not to mention plugging motor-craft products to use.
Another great video on how to fix a "not-so-great" idea from Ford. Keep up the good work, Brian.
My truck died on me this weekend and I seen a video about this. Would of never thought to check it out without the video. Cost about $110 and 10 minutes to fix and my truck was back up running better then before.
Thank you Brian. Good job. I appreciate your videos. Have a blessed and safe week.
It is exactly what happened to my truck, I changed that part and started again. Thanks for this video.
I am very proud of Ford for finally discovering that aluminum and steel should never touch.
Maybe someday they'll figure out that electronics shouldn't be hung underneath cars.
Welcome Ford to the rest of the world that already knows it.
I was thinking the same thing.
We never have that type of problem in New Mexico - if you think it's that much of a problem - maybe you should move to a better climate...
@@buckhorncortez A better climate is moving to me.
I absolutely love your videos. 2010 F150 owner. Wish I would have seen your page 3-4 years ago. I enjoyed your use of the word "Ma-teh" ...(matte)
Great video as always. Needed this a couple of years ago before I took the bed off my crew cab trying to change the fuel pump 😀.
Lol the stock fuel pumps almost never fail 2004 and newer
Outstanding explanation and video of the location. This actually just happened to me, all the same symptoms you described!
I swear FoMoCo & GM are having a competition to see who can come up with the dumbest electrical engineering that will still make it out of the warranty period. GM one-upped Ford by requiring programming of the new module ... 😡
Great stuff as always, Brian. 👍👍
Thanks much!! I'm going to check mine today and see how it is. I'll probably go ahead and do the lifting mod of the unit just to be sure. You do great work. :-)
Quick Tip. 2 20 amp fuses across the two sets of terminal....(yes they fit perfect) will alllow truck to start and run if module has died. Get you home or to shop....save a tow fee.
Can you explain that in a little more detail. I am intereted in what ya got to say.
@@Starbreaker666 at 3:41 for connector view...install a 20 atm fuse across the top 2 terminals and a 20 amp fuse across the bottom two terminals. This provides a power and ground to the fuel pump. The pump will run at full pressure but the truck will run to get to shop. I have done this quite a few times when customers call to say their truck won't start and drive back to shop.
Best tip ever thank you very much
Sold about one a month when I worked at an auto parts store some years ago. I bet they sell weekly now with a few more salty winters.
This video saved me. Swapped this out while stuck on the side of the street. Thank you
Brilliant mind👏... Redesign to prevent issue back again....
Why is it that most content on this channel is simply fixing bad Ford engineering? They've been building cars for long enough to know how to do it right yet it seems to escape them. The 4.0 SOHC series was quite the eye opener. Great job, Brian! Your content is helping a countless amount of people. Keep it coming!
@@LynxStarAuto I was more getting at the fact that Ford engineers their problems into their cars instead of out. Of course Brian is a Ford specialist. The point was that his content is mostly fixing Ford's bad decisions instead of just normal wear and tear items.
@@CleanSC All manufacturers have good vehicles and bad vehicles, Ford has produced a lot of junk but they've also produced a lot of very reliable vehicles it just depends on which one we were talking about!
F150's with there no nonsense V6 (non ecojunk) are extremely reliable and get good fuel economy, the old school 2 valve modular V8 engines we're also extremely reliable and very easy to work on!
The problem is that they try and innovate and everybody wants the latest and greatest with the most power and the most complexity and then complain when it breaks!!
@@lustfulvengance Hey I'm with you 100% on everything you say. But there are some things Ford has done that defy any sort of logic. Bolting an aluminum part on a steel axle on the back of the truck is just being cheap. It doesn't take a crystal ball to know that's going to be bathed in salt, dirt, and water. Other manufacturers that decide to do things right, would have placed this module either inside the cabin or in a well-protected space. Why didn't Ford do it? Because it will be a cold day in hell before 8 more feet of thicker gauge copper wire are on the BOM. It's penny pinching. They know it will be good enough thru the warranty period, and to hell with it after that, it's not their problem. It's bean-counting like this that turns me off to certain manufacturer's practices. GM is in the same boat with countless rotten modules in the back of their trucks. They both KNOW how to make it reliable but they CHOOSE not to.
@@CleanSC The sad but true facts that have become the norm among auto makers!!
Why ford and GM couldn't just run the stupid pump at 100% like they had been doing for decades and regulate the pressure mechanically is beyond me 😡😡
Wow all hail you as the greatest design engineer in the world. Lol. Probably a fat couch potatoes that never did anything in engineering or design. But hey you probably feel smarter then all the Ford engineers. Congratulations on being a moron.
Thank you for all your videos you have saved me so much money.
Thank you Brian. I looked at my fuel pump driver module on my 04 F150 and it's original, it's cracked and corroded (though the truck still runs). I went to my local Ford dealer and got a new one. It was $180.00, not bad I don't think. I live in Missouri and we use salt on the roads down here so after 19 years, yes I think it's time to change the module. I will be doing that this next weekend.
Side note: I just changed the fuel filter on it and thanks for that video. Yes the filter was original. For some reason I thought that I had changed it about 10 years ago however, I remembered that was my 95 blaser that I use to have that I changed 15 years ago not 10 (Ooops).
Hi, very nice explanation and information, I had a truck with intermittent cranks don't start, somebody put white grease at the conector of the fuel control model, after I cleaned and remove the grease everything is working fine..blessings
Bingo. Fuel pump good verified. Fuse box(fuel pump relay) good rebuilt. Fuel pump driver module disintegrated. Thank you very much. Great video.
My Dorman part working great,3 years ago! Was $57.00 eBay! Ford part was on back order and cost $107.00 back then!
my Ford dealership was back ordered too and I needed the truck,so I got a Dorman one,so far it's working good. And it had spacers to move it away from the steel cross beam.
Now these are all double that cosy unless you order the Dorman from Amazon.
My brand new doorman doesnt work. $60 at orileys. Saying i need to get a ford one $220 crazy
@@koreyhair6195 I have a good cheap one new in box shipped $70 had it as a spare. Also other new parts fits 04-08 f150 if interested,
@@koreyhair6195 check for blown fuse top of fuse box right side kick panel , if red light is flashing.
My truck is on FPDM number 3, the first one died and was replaced before the "revised mounting kit". I think the dealer installed the 1st replacement, they had trouble getting one because they were on back order from Ford, and basically impossible to find after market. When I installed the 2nd replacement (this time with the revised mounting studs) this summer I also Fluid filmed the case.
Superb quality content everytime 👍
Make sure you remove the grey rubber gasket when installing! If you do not, you’ll throw a P1233 code! Happened to me. Go out and disconnect and check if you left it on! Awesome job Brian!
What grey gasket are you talking about? Please help
Do not remove any rubber gasket! That’s what keeps water and mud etc out of the connector. Just ensure the plug is fully seated and good to go.
Another Valuable video. Thank you very much!
I should have known you'd use fluid film to protect the module, good stuff.
My mercury mariner hybrid 06 has random hesitation when acceleraring and sputters for 2 seconds after shutdown, no codes yet. Gonna check this today, thanks buddy!
Good video and simple fix. Still waiting on a video for my 99 Ford F-150 on the frozen 4x4 linkage pin
heat beat repete
Another great video! How I wish you did Corvettes or another mechanic. I watch and never had a Ford.
I had a friend with an expedition that had this fail on him. After replacing the fuel pump and numerous tow charges. They found this to be the problem. He warned me about it on my 07 f150. I bought the new kit right away. When I went to take mine off, one side fell off when I put the wrench on it. The back had corroded straight through. I was so close to being stranded.
Thank you for making these videos, it’s really helpful
Hey Sir great information that really helped me out and I appreciate it. Just watch yourself giving out information about that company's link on that Ford Control unit. They send me a old one which was labeled as a kit. No hardware to mount the new unit. This wasn't the company's first time from what other costumer said. Mines was very bad as your video demonstrated. Thanks Sir
Just happened yesterday (7/22/2024) to a friends 2014 Ford E-450 RV (6.8L V10) conversion. Left him stranded in the middle of Ohio during a cross-country trip with his whole family. Some bucking, one intermittent engine check light DTC (which he ignored b/c he was in a hurry to get east at the beginning of his trip), then hard starting, then crank/no-start. All of this progressed over two weeks. Couldn't find any RV places willing to tow/service (claiming they didn't have a lift large enough for his 30 footer RV), so he ended up at a truck dealership for the repair. They started by dropping the tank, said the pump had no power, then traced it forward to the driver module. They're saying both the pump & module are now b/o. $700 in parts and $900 in labor, according to him. Seeing this first could have saved him a chunk.
Great info, and demonstration!!!
Great video! I want that Milwaukee ratchet. That thing is AWESOME
www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-1-4-in-Ratchet-Tool-Only-2456-20/203111679
@@FordTechMakuloco hey thank you very much. I'll most defenetly check it out
Great video love the content and the general information about ford products, Got a question for you, I have a 2019 platinum f150 and want to drop the back to be level with the front instead of doing the typical leveling kit in the front, the blocks on the back are not tapered, if I remove them should expect any difference in drive ability? I.e a vibration from the drive shaft? Will the pinion angle change at all considering the blocks are not tapered? Would appreciate any insight, information on this specific topic is varied on the net. Thanks man!
Great video. Very informative.
Brian,
Great video (and I dont even have a Ford truck) - thank you!
God bless
Paul
Just did this to my cousin's truck this past weekend.
Thanks for the informative video. I'm ordering the part from the link that you have provided.
7:36, R.I.P. headphone users, LOL. Like your videos, I did this to my 08 back about 5 years ago. I used the Dorman part that comes with the rubber spacers, was under the truck this spring and most of those rubber spacers are gone and looks like I might have to replace the module again, getting a little crusty. Probably use the Ford part this time around.
Might be a good idea if you have one of these truck and the control has not failed yet. Not too hard to make your own offset. Longer bolt and some washers.
Then Fluid Film the heck out of it.
This video was super helpful thank you
Thanks Brian 👍
The first problem I noticed with my 2008 F150 was while driving through a heavy rain storm, the truck started running like it was misfiring.
The next morning I phoned my mechanic and when I went to start the truck and head to have it looked at it ran normal again.
Months later I noticed if I pressure washed my truck and sprayed the under carriage it would run like crap and bang & clang until module would dry out.
One time I had a rad. shop flush out my coolant and as I drove away it started to feel like it was misfiring and quit just as I was getting on to the highway.
Had someone pick me up, went back a few hours later and started right up. As long as it didn't get soaked with water under there, truck ran fine. When I had it replaced it was super rotted out but still ran fine if it stayed relatively dry.
I just did this repair in my shop. I always will use a bolt system to make stand-offs so that it cant interact with the differential housing.
You are also very good in painting Jajaja great thank you for such a great videos
Mine got me at a friends house. I came out and it wouldn’t start. Didn’t know what was wrong so I had it towed home. Next morning I researched and bought an fpdm from auto zone. It was a dorman one but it’s lasted me over a year now and it’s a better design as far as spacers that keep it off the frame. Hopefully it doesn’t cause any problems later on.
Any sailor will tell you that's not the way to properly treat corrosion. The frames been done well but you're still not gonna completely prevent galvanic corrosion of the module, you still have an electron path. You can greatly improve corrosion protection by also painting the module body. Aluminumgell would also do a good job
I used fluid film.
Thank you great help!
Great video. Thanks
When I replaced mine, I simply applied a generous amount of antseize, to the back plate and frame; but I like the stand off. Maybe I'll take a peek and do this. Thanks for another great video! 😁
Bro you’re are beast thanks a lot 👍🏽
Ford engineers : let's put aluminum against steel, what could go worng.?
Criminal .
another awesome video, thank you.
Gracias por su video saludos de Tijuana
You have very nice video's thanks for shares
Exactly as it should be, straight to the point no excess yapping
Good information
At least you did not have to program it like GM makes you do.
Its also an earlier model ford as well, so less complicated then they are now. Although to play devils advocate, I see where GM is coming from with the whole recalibration thing, esp. actuators (HVAC damper, e-throttle, etc.), for example. The only other option (and how they used to do it) is to include logic in the software to automatically learn the home position and range of the actuator during key on or after X number of starts, which puts a lot of wear and tear on the actuator during the life of the vehicle. Doing the recalibration just once during a service visit saves a lot of stress on the components.
Great video, I bought the OEM part, installed it but truck wouldn't kick over. Took it back to Ford thinking it was defective but come to find out it needs to be programmed 🤦♂️. I tried looking for videos/ forums on how to do that but haven't found anything
Brian, I am surprised you hadn't covered this sooner. Had mine let go on my '06 Harley Ed. F150 sometime ago. Fomoco is the only part to use!..but I'm not so sure about your 'mattay' finish I prefer matte!..lol
I was saying it the fancy way! Lol
Oh and I have covered this FPDM issue in a couple different videos in the past but never a dedicated F-150 video.
Haha!
Thank you so much
great video we have 3 f150 good to know
Right on brother
Hey great job on all your videos. Great info and now I have a problem I have 2009 f150 4.6 I replaced my fuel pump but the truck still dies after a few seconds I have pressure but slowly going down to zero . I don’t have leak in the fuel lines and new fuel pump . You have any clues of what I should do? Thanks in advance.
I removed mine and undercoated the back it spaced it 1/4” away from the frame.
I actually had a code P0191 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Bank 1 on my 2008 F-150. My first thought was the fuel rail pressure sensor, but it actually was a bad pump driver module. It came off the truck looking identical to the one in the video.
In the case of the module not failing would it make sense to cut a rubber gasket and mount it under the original still good fuel pump module? Or are the studs a ground point for the module? Always interested to see what is going to fail next on my Ford F150 (08). Thanks for the video. Doug
I am an experienced mechanic but still stumped.
I have a 2007 f250 super duty that starts when it wants. Sometimes will start then starts running slow then stops and fuel pressure is zero.
I have cycled the key on and seen 70 PSI pressure, starts right up idols fine and as watched the fuel pressure goes from 70 to zero in about 5 seconds and dies.
Other times it runs a week with no issues.
On the no start condition there is only a few pounds to no fuel pressure. Leave the truck sit a day or an hour sometimes it starts right up. Might drive it everyday for a week and no problems. Might sit for for 5 minutes or next day and no start.
Problem is it will not stay in the no start condition so I can diagnose.
Replaced the fuel pump module and it started right up so I thought it was fixed. Next day no start even with the new FP Module. Threw a fuel rail switch on too. Still acts up when it wants.
Cycle key on and can hear the pump for a second but it sounds week most of the time. Sometimes a key cycle will give a strong fuel pump sound and the truck then starts.
Sometimes the key cycle will only boost the pressure a few pounds and will not start. Then it gets a streak where the pump sounds strong again and starts right up.
I'm not sure if I should put a fuel pump or the Engine PCM is telling the pump to misbehave.
I think fuel pressure is regulated by the ground the module sends to the pump? If I provide a full ground to the pump when it won't start and it starts will it prove anything like the PCM is faulty?
I removed , and cleaned grounds to the FP Module and tank. Unplugged and inspected wire plugs I could see. I'm in the rust belt so bad contact is possible but I don't see it.
I hope it's the pump but wondering if it is the PCM providing weak ground at times?
Thanks for any help.
Been having an issue with no start then wait 10 min and it starts, new fuel pump. Michigan truck with 225k miles, 2006 F150.
Didn't even know about this component without your video, thank you.
Question:
Would a coating of Dolphanite help keep corossion off the back?
Hi Brian , where is this FPDM located on a 2006 ford 500 ? We have a crank / no start issue., no fuel coming out of the main fuel line . I checked all fuses in and out of the car . Removed and cleaned throttle body too.It will start with starting fluid.Thanks for all the great videos.
Good video
Hi I like to say thank you,
For your great video's. They are easy to follow.
I'm going to be cleaning the throttle body on my 2009 Ford edge. I just wanted to run the procedure step by you to make sure everything is accurate.
1. Make sure everything is of radio, ac, etc.
2. Remove the battery.
3. Remove & clean the throttle body.
4. Put throttle body back
5. SG12 grease to throttle body electric connector
6. Remove & clean the MAF sensor. SG12 grease to MAF connector.
7. I'm adding K&N air filter.
8. Put battery back only connect positive wire.
9. Alligator jumper wire
from positive to negative
for 15 minutes.
10. Connect negative start car & let it run for about 20 minutes.
11. Go for 15 to 20 minutes drive.
Thank you in advance for your response.
Do I have to mount this right away, or is it safe to drive without mounting to make sure it's working properly? Thanks for your help!
Will this possibly cause chugging and a rich condition up hills or heavy throttle? I have a 05 f150 XLT that I just did a complete thanks to your videos. Did the coils and plugs (thankfully none broke on me.) I'm getting the p2198 code and using the torque pro app it's telling me that the catalytic converters are roughly between 1000 and 1200 degrees no load and only going around 40mph. Thanks ahead
What is that black cylindrical part that resembles a canister on the opposite side (in front of) the fuel pump driver unit?
Hi Brian if put a plastic insulation in between after coating, would better? thx
No this is the best way and a spray of fluid film helps.
Thanks for makin these great videos i have a question what coils would be best to use on 09 f150 xlt 5.4 besides motorcraft
NGK or Denso
Denso
I just did this on my 06 Ford Escape. The doorman kit comes with the module painted silver not raw aluminum. It also came with a multi choice fastener kit and rubber stand offs with metal screws going thru them. I got mine for 40$ off eBay. I hate doorman. But this kit was awesome. I also added some silicone glue around where the plastic top meets the module and snaps on. Just extra precaution against salt.
Question: in that diagram there’s a black yellow wire coming out of the number 3 pin. Does this go to the pump connector?
I’ve replaced this FPDM and the fuel pump, but now it seems like I’m not getting any power to the pump. There was a bare wire, with about 1” of black insulation, wrapped in silver tape with the two larger wires going to the pump connector. Trying to figure out what that is for. Thanks!!!