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Definitely interested to see how this works for you.

Nice video - I bought (7) wedges on Ebay for $23 and just wired brushed and sharpened them Next I will paint. I found an axe on the edge of a log with hammer works great to split large logs. Take care and be safe!

My sharpening method is a rigid knife blade across which I move the sharpener - this tool gives me the options

Very good video with great information! Thanks much! Looking for the reinstall video now ..

I am so glad that you did all of this. I learn from others mistakes and victories. I have been pulling my hair out with trying to figure out this problem. I even went as far as getting a remanufactured pcm brain and having it programmed to my truck. It ran perfect for 2 months after that, just lucky. It’s the same problem all over again and then i seen your video. Thank you so much. Same actual problem

Thanks for your well done video. What is the advantages / disadvantages between sharpeners like the TSPROF and an EdgePro sharpener?

I store my pencil eraser in there to clean ceramic rods and diamond plates

I had similar symptoms with my 99 f-150 and it turned out to be the relay that drives the fuel pump. In my case that relay was under the hood in the engine compartment fuse box. I started getting a lot of strange issues back in 2015 and when the truck would refuse to start after a lot of cranking and then would start no problem a few hours later I started to suspect it wasn't the pump. I also put a gauge on the fuel line and could see the pressure was zero and was not hearing the whirring noise from the tank when the key was turned to the on position but not started. but back to all the strange issues. it turns out that all the electro-mechanical things (like relays) were degrading. If the truck was in a mood and wouldn't start, I could thump that relay and like magic the truck would start on the first crank. I replaced it and haven't had an issue since. Being curious, I carefully opened the bad relay and saw how the contacts were glazed over with black deposits. After seeing that, I decided to just replace all the relays in that box. All the mystery issues have gone away now. On another note, a lot of rubber and a few other electro-mechanical things failed on me also. there is a exhaust gas valve or solenoid near the break master cylinder that had a similar issue and was throwing engine codes indicating emissions control which made my truck fail state inspections. Long story short, Ford didn't make this truck to last forever. delicate electronics and formerly robust rubber hoses start to degrade but the good news is a lot of these things are easy to get your hands on way before you try and pull the tank down which I also attempted at first but stopped short when a friend recommended looking at the fuel pressure first. that suggestion saved me so much headache and sent me down the correct and much less hassle path.

Way to go buddy! I had no idea. I’m going to check that before I do anything else 👍🫡

I love spherical washers😎 Lathes are awesome. Just used my PM lathe and Mill to make “slipakniven” style extensions for my Tormeks with 10” CBN and leather hones. The new Tormek KS123 makes things even easier! Greetings from SoCal 😎

Is it available in India?

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Keep doing these. You are very easy to understand. 🙏🏼💚

For solvent/cleaner outdoors, diesel fuel works well. Insidoors? I learned from Hobby Hardwood Alabama (has RUclips channel), try Cotton Picker Spindle Cleaner/Detergent. It's a water-soluable oil. He uses it on his sawmill blades. I want to try it on my chainsaw chains.

I bought my Super Jolly from Sharpening Supplies too. They are helpful and their prices are good too. By the way, the Tecomec variant they sell, is made in ITALY...good stuff!

You said you use a 1/8 wheel for everything. I thought the 1/8 wheel was for 3/8 LP and .325 chain, while the 3/16 wheel is for 3/8 (.375) chain. Table in manual says either size wheel for 3/8. Your theme here was about how to set it for "everything" without changing up (and killing time). Afterall, we bought these sharpeners to achieve repeatable uniform results, in a time efficient manner. Thanks for sharing!

The angles and performance have more to do with, how hard the wood is, how fast or aggressive the cutter, and either how efficiently or fast and smooth the cut is versus longevity of the cutting edge. Practically, your experience varies basically on wood type versus chain grind, cutter profile, saw power, cutter pattern and chain type, bar length, chain speed (bar length, sproket, and saw power together), saw tuning/performance, plus environmental factors and user parameters. Even the manufacturers make "compromises" to box an all-around chain. They use grinders too that have tolerances +/-. You could adjust a little for hard or soft wood, not just the cutter, but also depth gauge/raker, but it won't be as versatile. Competitions are set under ideal condiditions to limit other factors/ variabilty. The real world has rocks, nails, wire, and other things from one stem to another.

how to you make them even????? the edge pro requires a stone that's the same thickness along its length.

Can I sharpen my d2 knives on this?

Thanks so much for your video. I will look at mine. Thanks again

Maybe your experience is different than mine, but I have found that the majority of serated knives that I get don't actually need any grinding done and I can just skip to the last step of belts along the back side and the wire wheel in the inside of the serrations

Thanks for the heads up Matt!

It doesn’t rain where I live in the desert so we have no corrosion

But, as the diameter of the abrasive wheel wears, the left cutters will be less tilt and the outer more? No. Perhaps a CBN type wheel would abate such variation. The Super Jolly has an adjustment to compensate for diameter wear, but as that is adjusted the degree markers for tilt get out of index, same reason.. My solution was to forget the tilt, set the adjustment for centering the wheel as needed, and I also switched to CBN wheels.

Most of what I have seen says you do one side of the knife until you get a burr then do the other side with the same number of passes.

I have come to the conclusion that the 10 degree drop with chisel chain is not desirable in hard wood. It seems to cut faster for a few cuts, but dulls quickly. With the Super Jolly, I do have to adjust the cutting "length" when switching from one side to the other; not much but just a bit. Otherwise the left side cutters would be a little shorter than the right ones.

Thank you so much for posting this video. You have saved me a lot of time, effort and money. Your diagnosis was spot on for my truck. I replaced that desentigrating module and it started right up and runs fine. Again, many thanks!!

If you are still servicing this account, please please consider wearing cut resistant gloves and some type of shoes. Otherwise, quite impressed.

I sure am glad you were being properly supervised....if only they stayed that young just a little longer...

TSPROF is absolutely the best of its format…

"NON-SERVICABLE" relay CAN be replaced! Bought exact replacement relay on Ebay. It was a chore pulling the fuse box out, and then taking out all of the fuses in order to open the box and expose the circuit board and relay - but in my case, it was worth the time and trouble rather than paying hundreds of dollars for a replacement fuse box! Besides, I like to fix things myself! Maybe I'll make a video!

My truck stopped running after I think someone fucked with it. Checked my spark plugs and checked my coils, all are good to go. But I'm still trying to figure out why it doesn't crack over. It acts like it wants too, but never does. Should I check the pump and fuel filter? Or do you think it could be another issue?

I've gone to mostly CBN wheels and grind without the water trough. I check whatever tool I'm sharpening for heat and feel that the slow speed of the Tormek doesn't generate much heat, if at all.

I was fed up of re shaping wheel stone i use a dremel now and use dimond bits i get 1 50cm chain out of 1 bit only use one type of chain 91px068x b advanced cut bits are 20 for 7pounds

I don't have a tilt angle on my chainsaw sharpener

What all years is this relavent for, 05+? Older too or no?

Hallo, bin jetzt neu und sehe mir ihre Videos gerne an, komme aus Westdeutschland nähe Düsseldorf 👍

I've been using the radiused edge of an older (too small to use) SG-250 but it doesn't last long and the radius does wear out really fast. Once I even used the edge of an SJ-250 and it was mirror edged (and got the knife super slippery sharp) but again the wheel radius enlarged too fast. It'd have to be re-surfaced again after a few knives and that can get expensive. I made a video on the deleted channel but that's long gone now. I'm a die hard Tormek guy as you know but slowly branching out to other tools as I feel is necessary. Another great and very useful video. Thanks.

That chain hanging in on the wall behind the grinder is getting grinding grit blown right into it though? Doesnt make sense with the effort you put into cleaning the chain from the outset. I never bothered cleaning the chain, right when the dried sap on the top plate starts changing color is when I know the cutter is sharp, after that you can clean the chain. I also go a bit deeper angle so I get an almost chisel grind (for durability) and can get the gullet.

Could you make a video on how you acquire customers? And maybe an explanation on how your drop box system works that would be great info too. I have been thinking of starting a chain grinding business but don't really know how to market or advertise at all.

Its a bone cleaver. If the bone cant be cut through, its broken with the back then the muscle is cut through with the blade.

Thanks Matt you’re the man!

I BET this is my problem. How do I know? A few years ago I had an incident at work and I had to remove a 100Lbs of soil from a farmer's field where I often loaded water which was contaminated with HCL from a spill I had from my acid pump. I washed out the box of my pickup thoroughly but after seeing how fast that acid eats an aluminum fitting (a different incident ) I bet that that aluminum plate is dissolved like a sugar cube in a steam sauna. 🤔...Just in case anyone feels like being a smart mouth no I dont haul acid anymore and I was an excellent ,skilled operator, if you haven't dealt with a few spills you haven't hauled acid

I use it to generate freedom from having to go out into this collapsing world and deal with the clueless muppets who walk among us. Real, normal people, look for me, come to me, they're friendly, they're appreciative, they laugh at my jokes, listen to my stories, pat my big brown dog, give me money and leave. Perfection.

Very informative

Great content, But I am getting dizzy from the constant in and out of focus.

This one gives all the functions of the cube. It's easier to understand than the little tiny manual ruclips.net/video/KPXkQNcflPI/видео.htmlsi=qjNNENsaKMQHhNAo

Here ya go brother here's how to set the cube on Pioneer it's different on each system ruclips.net/video/gn15qXPBoDo/видео.htmlsi=vZwO3cDPMJ7vk3v9

The angle cube will sit on top of the sharpening arm that's why it has the flat area on it. You can reset the stone much faster with the cube then the movable rubber washer if you have different size stones. Start on the flat area on top behind where it rotates it has a small plate for the cube. If you hit both buttons on the angle cube at the same time it has 4 modes it rotates through. Some are sharpener specific. I think if I remember correctly you want mode P-2 works for it .Then hit the right button to zero it out. Start on the back flat plate. Zero it out then move your cube to the arm with your abrasive on it .Set your angle. When you change stones just use the cube again and do the same thing for the larger stone. Far easier and faster then the rubber slide washer the angle clube they send is very accurate and I like that the numbers don't go crazy fast makes it easier to set than many other angle cubes on the market.

Very good video, I like how you explain the steps.

Move the sharpener to the edge of the bench... This will allow you to flip larger knives in the sharpener. Thanks for the video! 😎👍