'92 Ford F150 300 I6 No start FIXED!!
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- My '92 F150 with the 300 (4.9L) I6 wouldn't start. This video shows the process I went through to figure out what the problem was and fix it. When researching my problem online, I did not readily find the solution to my problem. The solution was ultimately found through trial and error, and the help of Subford from Ford Truck Enthusiasts (www.ford-trucks.com) forum.
There are a lot of things that can cause a vehicle to not start. This shows my experience with a bad ECM and how to resolve it.
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I really appreciate a RUclipsr who cites their work. I am very impressed with the level of professionalism in your videos. We need more people like you!
Check him out at Crossroads Rebuilds
I just did buy a 1992 F150. After a couple of days, It almost left my wife and myself on the side of the road. It soon died, and now it will not start. My truck is EXACTLY like yours! After taking notes, I'm headed to my shop to see if I can determin what is wrong with mine! Thank You for your video... It gives me a start as to where I need to start! I too, don't want to pay someone to tell me what is wrong. Thank You!!!!!
My 89 fired up after an oil change, ran for at most a minute and died. It'll crank but won't start. I figured the fuel pump went. After a new tank, fuel pump, and lines, this is the only video I've watched that's explained what happened. Thank you!
You're a great guy! You confirmed to me that those computers will go out for no real reason, but maybe use and age. I got that awful burned electrical smell in the cab of my 93 F-150 as I was trying to restart it after it suddenly died. My 300, I 6 was running fine then it just quit on me. There was no spark and no fuel pressure either. I have found out that there are some capacitors that will blow inside of the computer box. They are hard wired to the printed circuit board. Some will just replace them, but I figured it would be best to replace the whole unit as there may have been more problems internally because of the capacitors failing. Thanks for this excellent video and the related info.
I could not understand why I did not have spark or fuel. I replaced the entire ignition system and was getting ready to tackle a new fuel pump. Your video explanation was awesome! I use my 94 f150 4x4 during the winter months to take care of my handicapped mother and with winter coming I was getting really worried. Thank you very much!!
Thanks so much for making this video. I was having almost exactly the same symptoms and was having a heck of a time trying to figure out what the issue was. Swapped it and it started right up like a champ. My only regret is not finding this video earlier... so again, thanks for the video and thanks for saving my marriage.
I need to know if the manufacturer manifold that hooks to the head what does all pipe if it's leaking would it stop this thing from a idle and download it post to
Subford is a legend. A very knowledgeable and generous man
Where is he located?? If Florida I'd just take my truck to him
Thanks for such a wonderful video. You hit the nail right on the head when you made this video. You got to your points and made them very clear without a bunch of unnecessary talk. I have two F150's and one F350 that cranks but no start. I'm feeling more confident after watching your video. I've tried fixing all three to no avail. Thanks for such a well put together video that encompassed strong teaching, educational context, and clear video shooting. All three makes for a good video. I have subscribed to your channel and is very very picky about who I subscribe to. Once again, thank you.
I got two F-150s and a F350 too
I kept trying parts with no luck, this was the best video walked through with very much detail thanks. opened the computer and had some major damage inside. Paper clip trick was on point.
Check the fuse box first. Same thing happened to my 94 f150, I changed the fuse for the electronic engine control, and it started right up
my 1996 Bronco 5.0 had similar problem of randomly not starting. Would just turn over but never ignite. Had spark. Turns out, as of typing this, it was the coolant temperature control sensor bad. was so brittle it snapped in half when i pulled wiring pin connector off it. was $30 at Auto Zone and very very easy to replace. So far so good. if continues, will look into the PCM.
another guy said when his 94 f150 did not start he replaced a water temp sensor only and after replacement his truck fired right up.....because that water sensor gave the computor a wrong [or no] signal so the computor shut down the truck and would not let it start. i will try that first before i dish out $150 to $400 or so for a computor....ignition module is only $18 online or $65 at auto zone..so i would go there next also before i go the computor route. but thanks for showing the location of the computor and that interior swith and the way to hot wire test it...all super valuable info, i did not know...thanks again...your well spoken easy to understand your words and vidoe of truck and parts is clear and super informative
My grandpa's 1995 f150 XLT is doing the same exact thing as your truck is this one is an H on the VIN number it has the fuel injected 5.8 under the hood, I have checked everything on it I've replaced fuses I had a fuse that was blown in the power block on the inside of the fuse panel so I replaced all of those at a cost of $18 because you can't just buy one fuse and it was a 25 amp fuse, I also checked all the fuses underneath the hood and they were all good ,tomorrow I will be going out and checking the inertia switch as you have described in your video , the smell that you described I noticed that the day that the truck quit running , I was at work I left work of truck run great, stopped at the gas station shut it off ,filled the gas tank up, it has dual tanks on it as well, started the truck up no problem came home set out there for about 15 minutes because it's cold weather in Ohio at this time of year, and shut it off came to the house went outside early the next morning and all it would do is crank over, so I will do as you suggested in the video and I will keep you updated as to what I find, if I cannot fix the problem myself I have already made arrangements to take it down to Badens I Care Car Care which is in the Carbon Hill / Nelsonville Ohio area ,this man has been working on cars for over 50 years of all types and he knows what he's doing and he owns the business , thank you for your time and posting the video and thank you for the advice
Hello Stevo , I wanted to let you know that the inertia switch had popped due to a disconnecting the battery multiple times , it was THE simplest thing I've EVER fixed on any vehicle I've worked on in my 50 years, Thank You So much for the vids and advice, the truck is running bc of your videos
Loved all the info.. Kept watching despite wanting to say : Pull a plug, no spark, unplug ECM and try again . If you got spark now its the ECM . I have 2 88' F150 , 4.9's . Their great when their running but a pain if their not .
This is exactly how to make a diagnostic video. Well done and thanks
Those guys at FTE are good. 👍. I have met many many great people from fte. I was the AZ chapter leader for a few years on the forum. I watched this video because I just picked up a 93 short bed with a 6 and a 5 speed. You gave me a few more things to check. Thanks!
That ground on the fender by the battery, which he pointed out, is crucial. It is THE ground for the ECM. Make sure it's always clean and tight.
Great video. I had the same issue on a 94 F-150, truck stalled out, would turn over, but wouldn't start. I could hear the fuel pumps on either tank weren't priming, plus no spark when I checked.... What got my attention on your video was the SMELL, which I had immediately noticed. Pulled out the ECM, took the cover off and looked at the circuit board and could see it was noticeably fried. Put a re-manufactured ECM in and got it up and running. Thanks!
Thank you for this video! I just got my new to me truck running today
I recently had a major electronic bug with my '94. I was trying to install a tach and that involved tapping into the negative coil wire. Well, after doing that the engine would crank but not start, I blew the ignition system fuse, and the coil was only receiving about 3 volts. It also was not "Pulsing" out the negative side (A test light should flicker when you crank the engine) Eventually I could get it to fire after replacing the module on the fender and wiggling the wiring harness. My best guess, as I was installing the tach, I jiggled that harness in just the wrong way, that must have shorted out blowing out my fuse and module, and causing the no start. Ford is notorious for wiring issues caused by corrosion, so be careful when working on it.
This was a very good video, very patient with the diagnostics, very clear explanation and videography! Keep up the good work and I subscribed. I own a 1993 F-150 Flareside that I love1
Check out his new channel crossroads rebuilds
Good shit Man i was seeing alot of the same problems you mentioned so you really saved me a lot of time that will definitely be a good amount of time time to only end up being a waste after seeing this video. Now I can just tackle the main reason for the issue currently.
same here, THANK YOU
Excellent video My 1996 appeared first as fuel pumps being intermittent / long story short the fix was replacing the distributor. Fuel pressures checked in the moments the truck would start, changing the main inline fuel filter was in order. The truck would start and run momentarily "stone cold" running not more than 5 and 15 min.s The obviously weak point is the distributors field effect device 'replaced the points' does not survive temp's as close as it is to the engine block. This too is the reason ford moved location of the 'ignition ignitor module' to the fire wall. Ah ha I purchased the entire distributor NEW for under $100 USDs. PS: in this fix the spark plugs, wires, and ignition coil, were replaced too all in OEM ford parts - made in Mexico. LOL The truck now starts and runs beautifully. May I add timing the distributor was not straightforward as was my 1960 E-100 160 cub. in. the hash marks on the 1996 flywheel are barely legible. Turning the engine over from down under with a wrench on the flywheel made finding #1 cylinder at TDC in the compression stroke a challenge till I came up with a balloon on the gauge end of my cylinder compression gauges hose, tied where it could be seen from under the engine turning the flywheel with a wrench. hehe Most fortunately all came together on a fabulous spring like Saturday.
James Fowler “
Amazing! you didn't give up. I have an F-150 8 cylinder I bought last summer from a neighbor. Hard to believe he would sell it to me with intermittent shut off issues and now only turns over and no start. Anyway....I was ready to fire it up and trade it. My mechanic has pretty much given up and doesn't want to just start replacing parts. If I were younger and had your determination I could get into working on it. So, I don't know what to do now.
awesome job and thanks was going through all the same issues on a 94 same engine size replaced alot of other things but never considered the ECM thanks again
+a. smith Thank you for the complement and you're welcome for the video! I'm glad you found it helpful. That is why I made the video. I went through all of this and couldn't find the info I was looking for readily available. I hope you get your '94 going soon!
open computer...take it to a computer or tv repair and replace the three blue barrel capacitors. Cost about two dollars each. reinstall in the truck and drive away. over time the capacitors will burst and leak. very easy to spot after removing the metal computer cover. this will save you several hundred dollars from a refurbished computer. Take care!
I swapped mine, no problem.
good info... thx...
Wait a second is this Stephen from Crossroads Rebuilds? If yall love this video because of how helpful and clear it is your gonna want to check out his rebuild channel. It is CROSSROADS REBUILDS and has amazong content just like this.
U are a life saver. I've been fighting this thing forever and i never thought of the ecm. Thank u!
Followed the steps. Found a corroded relay connector as the issue. Thanks for the excellent diagnostic video!
I know this is a old thread but some of these comments may have steering column/ignition switch issues. I had get a exchange column for my '93 F-150 4.9L because the little plastic pieces that push the ignition switch (when you rotate the key) broke up inside the steering column. When I went to replace the plastic links I found out the bearings in the column were bad as well. So at that point I ordered a exchange unit from Steering Column Services in Utah.
Thank you for posting your video. My '89 is showing the exact same issues. I too have followed the same diagnostic steps you have, stopping short of the ECM, but now I'll look closer at the ECM for possible failure. This issue is quite a diagnostic head scratcher. Thanks again.
Dan Stafford how did it go?
@@pestlund Yeah, it was the ECM. Although I didn't crack it open, I've been told that they have capacitors in them. I've dealt with aging capacitors before, they're messy when they pop and leak all over the place.
Thanks you, gives me one more thing to check. I have a 96 same engine giving me the same issue.
I’m have been going alone the same lines distributor etc etc and the computer was one thing that was in the back of my mind.
Exactly same scenario here! Wish I had found your video way sooner.
very imformative! this is why i bought a '83, & am puttin the front clip, & bed off a '96 to do away with all these headaches! i like the newer body obviously.
Ford also uses a Fuel Pump Cut off Switch to shut down the fuel in case of an accident. Locations vary from year to year, check your owners manual
Pha Que That's the inertia switch he was talking about.
The tool needed to replace the module is a Lang Tools FM-720 from Amazon. Use heat-sink grease on the back of the module. Get a Snap-on scanner from E-Bay. Get the cartridges and cables and manuals and adapters. Get the latest cartridges. That truck uses the Ford adapter for older Fords- TFI-IV. EEC-IV. The solenoid/ relay test would show that about the relay. Amazon has a digital Ford tester that'll do! Get a oil pump drive shaft to prime the engine and to line-up the oil pump to the distributor. Autozone has it.
THANKS , Stevo ! I've had issues with EVERY other problem that you mentioned before you got to the computer and I know that someday , mine will come full circle & have the computer problem also .But thanks to you, I'll know how to deal with it when it happens . I just hope I'm close to home when it does . Right now , I'm dealing with a NO start/no run sitch , because of a clogged Catalytic converter , and I just saw how MUCH they run now . F !!! A year ago they were 600, now they're 1200 .
I have my 1986 5.0 efi bronco. Been going crazy trying to get spark. New coil , dis pick up coil and module. Nothing only way is if pin ground to the out pip.
Thank you very much for this video. My 93 died similar to yours. It has a reman computer that is about a year old. The problem turned out to be my front fuel pump. The rear pump wouldn't activate until I jumpered the test port as you showed. Why? IDK, I haven't used that tank in years because it leaks if I put much fuel in it. I guess I'll fix both of those issues now.
When I removed my ECU (In a church parking lot) the fender wells din't pull out,but I had to push it down on the well just to get it out, and that was all by my self, I would highly recommenced asking another person to help out, it could take up to 40 mins just to do it
+Masterman5010 Yes, the fender well is the hardest part of this whole repair! I was able to get the old computer out by myself, but a buddy happened to stop by while I was putting the new one in, so he helped hold onto the fender well while I was installing the new one. It was WAY easier!!
+stevaroo01 Hey same story here! Some guy came by to check up on me and helped me out with pushing in the well and the whole thing was like 5 mins, lol
There is a ratcheting module tool to make replacing the module easy. Use heat-sink grease on the back of the module. Get a code tester to check things. A code tester can test relays and solenoids. Use a oil pump primer shaft to line-up the oil pump shaft to the distributor when replacing the distributor. Get #1 on TDC on comp. stroke. Lift the distributor and point the rotor at #1 terminal on the cap. Turn the Dist. way back opposite of normal direction. Lower the dist. and turn to normal setting. Set the timing. There isn't a code for the module on TFI systems. If you disconnect the battery for awhile, it'll erase the codes. Check for blown fuses.
Just purchased a 94 F150, NOT running, the fellow said he replaced many items, sounds like what you went through, I'm thinking of just putting a NEW GM type distributor in that has coil etc all in one package, just run one wire to the battery, and maybe a frame mount out of tank fuel pump, not sure yet, future plans is to remove the factory FI and go with a new 4 barrel intake & a bolt on GM type FI throttle body to get rid of the Ford computer issues
steve, great video. It was very helpful. I thought the ecu came out from inside the cab. Watching this helped me clarify how to actually get it out. I also came across subford on a potential ecu problem on my 90 7.5 F350. He's a great guy.
Thanks for sharing.
and tyvm for your vid...last year i had a head ache from the same truck and i had the same problem. mine i fixed but its now sputtering like crazy, my guess is cyl 6 fuel injector after watching a couple of vids
just wanted to say thank you for this video im having the same symptoms with my truck was cutting wood coming out of the woods truck died started back up died never started again have no fire nor do I have power to both fuel pumps
+christopher quesenberry You're welcome for the video. I'm sorry to hear you're having problems. This is definitely worth checking out. Good luck!
Disconnect the fuel pump shut off switch under the dash. All it is , is a metal ball bearing and a magnet inside a plastic casing that engages in an accident to shut off fuel (so you don't get burned up by your fuel pump if it continues to run) It also has a reset button on it. Hope that helps.
Rick OBrien hu
Gee i was lucky.. my 94 4.9/300 6 cyl. has been running sluggish, wouldn't start when hot. I found the distributor was loose! use 1/2 " wrench set & tightened down. over 300,000 mi., runs like new!
mike Wilson nice that's awesome..I love those engines
mike Wilson the cap?
No mention that the engine timing would have been off and a loose distributor is not the problem with "no start" unless its way out. If so then itwould induction fire. Just tightening distributor will not fix it and they rarely get loose.
Test cranking wihle spraying starting fluid (or regular WD40 in a pinch) down the air filter box... If it starts, you have ignition, you DON'T have fuel.
Thanks for sharing , gives me some hope with my 92 ford that won't start , shop put in new tank with fuel pump . still doesn't start .
Same!
Thank you very much why it's so good so great that guys like you get online and show us how to do this stuff thank you I appreciate it from the bottom of my heart thank you thank you
If it's the same one I saw from another truck, there's a 10 microfarad 63V, and 2 47 microfarad 25V Electrolytic Capacitors in there for less than $3 each to swap out if they're indeed the fault in the ECM.
A great help , someone added a 7 in touch screen stereo and I've had a short in my dash and parking lights ,pulled stereo out and no short, perhaps over time the computer not functioning properly closed ecm in order to protect from total meltdown ,thanks I'll give it a shot keep up all the great advice.
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, emissions test readiness, ABS, SRS, transmission codes, solenoid and relay test, oil pressure reading, fuel pressure, RPM'S, graphing, oxygen sensor testing, code connect for diagnosing codes, and MORE!
thanks for the info. im back on the road
Excellent summary of diagnostics on this no start issue. I really like that you covered other common issues that were not the fix in this case but will help many others when they are starting to try and diagnose their own truck’s no start issue. You gave a great and easy to understand presentation. I wonder if your washing out the bed of your truck somehow caused the short in your ECU. The fuel pump connections are under the bed do you think that could have gotten water in a connection and shorted the ECU somehow or it was just coincidence that it would not start after that?
Two questions about this model of truck if you get time to answer: 1) Do you have the common issue of bad syncros and hard to shift into 1st gear with your manual transmission and have you checked your fuel mileage? I am considering a older 150 or 250 with a 4.9 6 because I have heard of fairly good fuel economy. Just wondering if it is better than a small V-8?
Thanks
I need to know if the adults manifold God be hooked up tightly or if it's leaking thundfrom the head will it stop it from idling down on the straight 63 hundreds feel injected feel injected
This video helped immensely. Thanks. Had all kind of stuff replaced before I figured it out.
Great video brother. You were a huge help. Thank you
Fuel pump runs initially until it is up to pressure then stops until engine starts. No need to remove bed for fuel pump change.
hey, nice i replaced,fuel pump.fuel filter.ingition control moduel,coil,dist,sector switch,still no start,,ill have try the ecm only thing left ,thanks hope it works
when u got to 11:31 ...do you know what that lil gray plug or fuse or w/e it is to the right with 2 orange wires on it is? looks like its coming from the ignition control module.
same here. same truck . same problem. just changed the fuel pump. started up for a minute while I held the gas. as soon as I let off the gas stoped. And didn't start again
How did you know to short terminals 2 and 6 of diagnostic port to get constant on fuel pump power? Please provide a link to references. Thanks
Great video I used to have a 88 efi 150 with a straight 6. A lot great info. I like learning A lot about these engine. I subbed keep in touch cheers
just fyi fuel pump circuit runs through PCM. when you turn the key and hear your fuel pump start . there is a circuit that runs through your computer . during certain times you could turn the key and never hear the pump and the your car will never start . Bad PCM can be no spark ,,and no fuel it won't complete certain circuits like enegizing your fuel pump 93 odb 1
Totally forget sorry
Trucks a 93 ford F-150 flairside with a 5.0 that has about 132xxx miles.
Also its a 4x4 and as well it's also a 5 speed! Feel free to ask any questions or just make convo! Enjoy your day peeps.
I'm hoping this is my coworkers problem I'm helping him with trying to fix the same year truck , before i started helping him he had already replaced fuel pump I had him keep old pump I had tested it ( old one ) and it was good all fuses good relay good but dose not seen to be getting power to 87 just 30 even when you turn on the key i didn't test the shut off at door pannal the way you did but i had power there and also i didn't test at ees 2 and 6 I'm going to go thou it the way you did and see if we can get the same results Thank for sharing
I have 95’ 4.9 biofuel too, and the exact same thing is happening to me. I did the tuneup on it and it still didn’t work. I imagined it had to do with the ECM but I wasn’t so sure. Now I know! Thanks! Where did you get the computer from? I haven’t been able to find it.
Great video havnt had that problem yet good to know thou.had that issue with 88 s10 everyone said same thing I replaced ecm started right up.
finally got my truck fixed solution two main fuses under the hood one went to the electrical second one went to my fuel pump. but my main problem fuel pump went bad.
You have given me a place to start thanks for that
subford on Ford-Trucks.com KNOWS HIS OLDER FORD TRUCKS!
Ford-trucks.com is a great site! Thanks for the info! I will check for the tester, my ground wires and my icm.
Where did you get your ECM? Thank you, great video!
Isn’t this part called the PCM? ECM is relay switch next to fuel pump relay unless I’m mistaken.
Would a '90 f150 300 with 103k miles for $250 bucks be a good buy? The owner stated it doesn't start from lack of fuel. But doesn't have the knowledge to repair/money. I'm thinking it has this problem like your truck
MrSnuggs yes it is!!!!
I'm about to tackle a no start issue with a 88, I'm hoping it's the ignition switch or the actuator arm.
I have 93 Ford F-150 flare side. It won't start. I guess I'll check what I just saw. Thanks
93 F150 5.0. when starting engine, starter won't disengage sometimes, or going down the road starter engages. can start truck by jumping solenoid
U need to replace ur selonod my 87 was doing the same thing
Thank you for the good video looks like it might be my problem on my 95 f150 have tried very thing else. again thanks
+Elias Bueno You're welcome! Did you ever get it working?
HAVE A F150 200O FORD THAT ONE DAY JUST WOULDNT START SO I CHANGED THE STARTER CYLINOID THEN LOSS POWER THEN THE STARTER WENT OUT UP TO DATE IVE BEEN THROUGH 2 BRAND NEW STATERS AND I FEEL THAT I WILL BE HEADED FOR THE THIRD ANY IDEAS FOR ME
Good info Stevo I have the same vehical same problem I did the probe test on the green yellow wire on the Inertia switch with the jumper installed on my test plug and the light stayed on but the gas pump is momentary then shuts off. You said in the video yours stayed on. Question. If my gas pump don't stay on should I continue towards the fuel pumps ? FYI i changed all the electrical parts and bought a pcm board from ebay but I don't know if its a good part.
Thank you for your helpful video. Did you see anything about the board in the ecm that looked abnormal or suspicious that would indicate a bad ecm? I happen to be having the same problem and the board on the computer looks good to me.
Great vid! Questions I have is: was the CEL light on on the dash? and if so, or even if it's not on, it would be interesting to see if there are any (saved) trouble codes or trouble code craziness that might further verify a bad ecm... I thought you were gonna check the codes w the paper clip but it was cool to see the fuel pump(s) test.
Thanx for the vid! Hope your 4.9 F150 keeps going and going! (mine as well lol, I've got a currently broken '88 w a 22 -map sensor trickiness- obd1 code suspecting fuel pressure issue but that ol' ecm is always in the back of my mind, should maybe replace it just to end the worry lol)
well done. great tips. thanks
I just recently bought two trucks one was a 92 Ford f150 single cab long bed with a 5.0 L in it I took out the two gas tanks because there is a hole in both of them I haven't replaced them yet or the fuel pumps I replace spark plugs and distributor cap but the other one is a 95 f-150 single cab long bed with the straight six I haven't replaced anything on it yet other than the solenoid, the engine runs but then it doesn't run after an hour I've also fix a clutch issue, it also seems like it's not getting good spark or fuel but I may have to try to replace the computer, also the starter gets hot I've saw another video where they put a heat shield around the starter out of sheet metal and it fixed their issue but I don't really think that might be my problem at all, what would you think would be the the problem if it wasn't the computer chip,
Hell yea bro thanks buying the ecm asap need my truck going I'm sure this is my problem too
My 1990 Ford isn't starting either, wonder if this is the issue.
Just had the fuel lines replaced, it ran for about a week.
Now it won't start.
I replaced the ignition coil, & fuel pressure regulator about a year ago.
I hear the fuel pump coming on, but it won't start anymore..
Wonder if it's the ignition control module, distributor, or ECM..
Man, i smell the same thing in my 1995 Flareside. So far so good.
That is a great truck I have a 1990 F-150 302 my runs great.
Isnt there a way to dump all these old components for a new and reliable FI system? People know the 300 is solid, its all the other crap thats no good.
Thank u my truck was doing the same thing
Well would make my truck I got a 92 Ford F-150 6 cylinder it just clicks it will not start it just clicks I've changed the starter but still just clicks what would it be
Thank you for your helpful information. I'm gonna give it a try.
hello I have a question about my truck same as yours. I replaced the battery and when I turned the key everything lights up but it doesn't turn over. but if I touch the solenoid with a screwdriver it turns over. does that mean it's bad
Quinton Dumas yes.
So my 93 start up but isn’t getting fuel. I replaced the switch and it’s reading my front tank just not the rear. Still isn’t getting fuel and don’t hear pump. So maybe it is the pumps???
300 inline six 4.9 i would guess electric problem since those motors are built perfect.
Man I changed mine yesterday and started right up. Went out this morning no start. Any help? Great vid btw
I need to know about what would make the Do you have the torque duck assault's manifold to the head does make it stop leak
Awesome video man thank you very helpful!!
Thank's bro! U saved me!now i need light's
1990 Ford f150 6 cylinder ignition
control module