Ford OBD-1 ECM Repair
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- I took some shots while repairing bad electrolytic caps in my ECM, replacing them solved 95% of the bucking/hesitation problems that I was having
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1987-1996 Ford ECU Capacitor Repair Kit amzn.to/3mJhTrv
Just ordered one.
Just put them in last night. Anything special I should do before putting it back? Mine is inside and not exposed to weather. Battery is disconnected.
@@stevegeorge3903 If you've confirmed your work, i.e. capacitor polarity's, you should be good to go.
@@SteveStoltz yes I remembered the long lead was positive got a few burnt fingers but I got it. I saw someone testing for continuity from pin to pin, have you ever tried that?
@@stevegeorge3903 A continuity test doesn't hurt if your not real experienced at soldering, but you would likely have had to glob quite a bit solder to get a dead short.
I had a miss at idle that turned into a bucking at low RPM and eventually stalling at idle. I replaced so many parts like TPS, IAC, MAP, etc… turned out it was these .80 cent capacitors. After soldering in new capacitors of the same spec the idle doesn’t miss and the low RPM bucking went away. Very thankful to have come across this. Thanks for the video @stevestolz.
Steve, I was skeptical, so I opened up my computer, 1996 E350, 5.8. Looks just like yours. Leaking capacitor, just like yours.
Replaced it. Runs great, no stumbles, no hesitation as before!!!
Thank you sir!
That's Awesome, I'm glad my video helped.
vortexeagle where do you buy them
I got the same 1996 E350, 5.8 / it start to hesitate at 35-45mph ...then at 55...
Now I removed the PCM from the slot but I CAN"t DETACHED from the connector , Does anybody have the same problem?
I tried to pull it with different tools "no success" !! Im thinking to put DW40 but at this moment I dont want to make it worse.
I will appreciate any help.
This is a link of the photo I took tinypic.com/r/2643r0w/9
@@SteveStoltz Steve, I'm a big Ford guy that specialized on Panthers. I got a 95 Town Car with a 2004 Interceptor that likes to randomly surge idle only in gear. Once you got to park, its fine. The original PCM was doing it all the time no matter what gear/park it was in. Replacing the PCM has helped a lot, but hasn't fixed the issue. I'm leaning towards the driver for the IAC. Any clue how to replace them? Appreciate any feedback.
Crown Vic Metal Detecting Sorry I don’t have any experience with that circuit.
Steve,
You are a godsend ! I have chased this problem for 2 years now and have replaced countless parts,so I figured what the heck,I'll give it a try. I changed all 3 capacitors and Bam....just like that my motorhome is running like a champ ! No longer running rough or stumbling. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video and putting it up !!!!
Jeff S Your welcome! I’m glad you got it running good again, time to go camping lol.
@@SteveStoltz I got a problem with my 1994 E350 motorhome and would like any help you can give me. First off we had 6 weeks of very cold weather. I went out and started it up drove it for 5 Mins and turned it off. Tried to start it again 5 mins. later and it clicked. Tried to boost it and it just clicked. Changed out the starter solenoid tried to start it and there was no power to anything. Battery is good, checked all fuses they are good. Used test light and there is no power to either fuse box. Any help will be appreciated.
@@moderndaydrifter4672 Did you change the solenoid on the starter itself or the one that's on the fender well near the battery?
@@SteveStoltz the one that is on the fender
Modern day drifter it sounds like the starter to me, try tapping on it lightly with a small hammer while someone turns the key and see if you can get it to start spinning. Being that it doesn’t get used a lot being a motor home it’s probably stuck.
I've been haunted by this problem for 4 years, but found out that disconnecting the VSS bypasses the problem, although the trans shifts hard when you disconnect the VSS. I changed out the capacitors and my van runs like a dream. Thank you.
j Chad, what year and model van you have?
i have a 94 van with a 5.8L it shuts off at stoplights. I opened the ECU and yep leaking from the same spot. I have put so many parts in this van nothing fixes it. Thank you for this video !
Thanks for sharing. Fixed my no start problem. With key on the fuel pump will constantly prime and truck will not start. Replacing the capacitors fixed the problem.
Awesome!
This is exactly what IAM going through with my 94 Ford ranger 2.3!! I can hear the pump priming when I turn key to on but truck doesn't start! ,I changed the crankshaft sensor,icm,fuel pump,fuel pressure regulator and NO STILL NO START! so I ordered a used ECM on eBay see if that is the issue .
@@ChefBetosAwesomeKetogasms I'm having the same problem. I replaced crank position and cam position. It has an integrated to pcm ICM so I haven't changed the pcm yet. Mine is a 95 2.3l What fixed your ranger?
Nice repair. You approached that one perfectly and knew what to look for. Love the tip about using a flashlight to find the component. Didn't even know that was possible. Awesome video.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks! My 1990 bronco was having a idle of 2000-2500 rpms when warm and after changing the TPS and IAC both twice, I decided to check my ECU and found 2 bad caps replaced them and now it idles smooth at 700 rpms.
Awesome.
Yep, thanks, I will check my ECM, absolutely!!! My Mustang idle went crazy, after I replaced bigger fuelpump, like 255 lph, had problems before, like "check fuel cap" light has been coming on/off, and P0443 purge control valve circuit, also P0455 large leak, just can't find it???, and also P0405 Exh. gas recirculation sensor circuit LOW??? Been replacing lots$$$ of parts: TPS, IAC, EGR, purge valve, and purge solenoid?? Idle goes to 2500, stays there 20-30 seconds, then goes down to 1200, never lower, I bet this is the problem!!! Thanks Guys, you are the best =)
I'm new to this video and found out this is what my ecu is similar too. My truck runs like crap after 5 minutes of running from a cold start. Replaced everything, sensors, ignition components, IAC valve, both pumps still nothing. So the computer was last to check so Thanks for sharing this..!! Love the flashlight tip!!
I've been loosing my mind over this misfire, gonna check these caps tmrw morning... nice vid
Thanks!
Great video. I've got a '94 Lightning, and had the same capacitor broken and leaking.
Dude, you saved my 94 lightning for $2.00 my man!! Thank you very much
Nice! I'm glad you got her going again.
Thank You Steve I had the exact problem with my 1990 E150 ............So after watching your repair I removed my ECM and found the exact same cap leaking and one of the legs rotted off with damage to the board from the electrolyte. Thanks Again I am looking forward to a better running Van !!
+Vincent Dsnt Your welcome. I'm glad it helped you out.
Hi Vincent, I also have a 1990 e150, how difficult was it to get the computer out, seems it is under the blower motor on the passenger side.
@@marvinlee3450 That is where to find it.......Good luck !
Thanks a lot for the video info. IT SOLVED MY PROBLEM on my 1996 Ford E350 Club Wagon. Since I bought it the problem was this: at 35 mph started hesitating very bad... a lot of high pitch clicks sounding on the transmission area, ..I had to press the acceleration pedal several times to jump that speed...then run well....but when hit 45-50 mph started to do the same fail... then after 60 mph running smooth ..
I went to different repair shops... but as the diagnostic terminal does not read the computer...they don't know anything (but they charge of curse for nothing $$) . Two of them told me to replace the transmission . Well I follow this video.. order the capacitors, replace the 3 of them (they was all bad).. and PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!... Thanks. The Van runs fantastic..smooth ride.
That's Awesome! I'm glad the video helped you finally get the van up and running
@@SteveStoltz Yes.. I was so frustrated that the repair shops doesn't have a clue ... so what to expect of me with zero mechanical knowledge. But when I saw the video I thought, thats it , if everything passes trough the computer..and the ONLY 3 capacitors are burned... that is the problem... and it was!!. Is kind of ridiculous, those little parts make the vehicle look ready for the junk yard.
Tony P yeah those little caps can mimic all sorts of problems.
@@SteveStoltz Also the fuel smell...went away!
Thanks for the information. Replacing one of the caps that you mentioned fixed the problem. My 1993 E-350 5.8 was missing the full 12 volts of momentary voltage that feeds the fuel pump for priming. It was getting only about 7 volts. The bad capacitor was leaking oil so it was easy to spot. I put a slightly higher rated voltage cap in because it is possible that the original was underrated for its duty in the circuit design which I have seen many times when working on TV's. I used an ESR meter to check the other 2 caps but they tested perfect so I left them alone. Removing that rubber coating was a pain the a@@!
I'm Glad it worked for you. I agree, that rubber coating is tough.
I have this exact issue!!!!! 1994 E350 7.5L. We'll see how it goes with this repair. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for confirming my suspicions. I have 3 of these trucks and they all have that low rpm hesitation. I assumed the ECM was the issue. I figured the caps failed.
say did it fix the issue?
I am still trying to fix mine mechanic charged me to reset ECM then I watched this video and told him and he pulled it it was bad replaced it issue still there, I've changed the trans and torque converter , new headers , egr, man ram hurting now but can't seem to quit till I fix, any advice?
@LonerWolf Patriot I hear ya, it was just an ECM swap mechanic wasn't getting into the ECM to fix just pulling old one out and new rebuild one in, any mechanic should know how to do it, I know how to do it now very easy,, mechanics were having a hard time with diagnosis, ended up being a bad PSOM circuit board behind speedometer that wasn't reading the VSS sensor above the differential, all good now.
the mechanic should have taken a look at the ECM circuit board diodes for corrosion or water damage before he charged me to reset the ecm though cause the old one was corroding and needed to be replaced not reset so extra charge on that , found better shop now thanks for the tip!
Thank You!!! I am having the exact same problem with my 94 E150 5.8. First it started burning raw fuel all you could do was smell raw gas. Then the RPM's just dropped even when temp. was 30 or below no fast idle then loss of power. I pulled my computer and took the lid off and right off I saw the one cap. at the right with the plug at the top was black as could be under it. Then I checked the first one you showed us and exact same thing leg was no longer attached to the cap. I am not going to try to fix it though but thank you for posting!!! It sure made me know I was on the right road. Also I attached my code scanner and all 14 codes came up low voltage. Thanks Again!!!
Glad it helped.
Hi, I have a question. I tried to replace the 3 caps and well I was not as lucky as you were. I think my old iron was to hot and damaged the board some. LOL Anyway I purchased a new ECM, and have not put it in yet because I was wondering did you find out what caused yours to go bad. Was it just age and the caps just gave out or was there another problem. All the codes I got were low voltage problems other than the one replace ECM. I was just wondering I would hate to put the new one in without maybe checking something else that did not come up. Thank You!!!
Beth VV_DD Electrolytic capacitors will all start to fail at some point, how long they last depends on a lot of variables. So there wasn’t anything that caused them to fail other than they just got old and started leaking until they ultimately failed.
Ok great thank you Steve!!! As soon as it warms up I will go put it in. LOL Thanks again!!!
This might aid in desoldering. Simply cut the leads as close to the cap as you can. Heat with soldering pencil and pull the lead out. Use desoldering wick or a vacuum sucker to clean the hole out..
Well done, found exactly the same problem in my F350
Great info with the flashlight man! Thanks
Your welcome, Thank You.
been digging through forms, replaced IAC, MAP, plugs, wires, cap and router. The plugs cap etc needed. i finally got off my ass to look at the ECM and yup the same cap leaked out the bottom. replacement cap on it's way. My stumbling low idle and just driving down the high way. i will update my comment if the issue has been fixed. You should adjust your tags in the video to cover more in searching for issues example, tag stumbling engine 5.8L ford. etc etc. Trust me it helps. improved my lenovo fix video for a battery issue.
Hopefully caps will solve the problem. I added some tags to broaden the searchability.
@@SteveStoltz my 94 ford E-350 5.8 L sound amazing, runs amazing now. Thanks very much also ordered from Digi-key . they have a Canadian warehouse/business here. next day delivery!
@@jasonflt I'm having issues with my 87 f150 5.0 302. Idle's fine, when in park rev's up fine. But when I start to drive it 15 to 25 mph it feels like I'm going down a bumpy road. I guess I'm feeling a hesitation, I to replaced cap, rotor, wires, plugs, disconnected 02 sensor, replaced map sensor, there's no catalytic converter on it. I was looking to replace knock sensor and maybe distributor, because I heard it could be the pick up coil in the distributor. This is driving me nuts, out of no where this started to happen. Do you think it could be the ECU capacitors
@@nickpanhead7209 will take you 20 mins or even less to take it out and pull it apart to look. DO IT!!!!! TAKE IT OUT!!
@@jasonflt does it pull out from the firewall side. Or from inside the cab under the dash. I know you have to take a bolt that holds the plug for the wires. But how do you pull out computer
You just saved me 1700 bucks. Thank you so much for your video if you wonder I have a 94 Lightning that has the same capacitor leaking and considered going stand-alone ecu. Thanks again!
I wish I had seen your video a few months ago. 1994 E350 7.5. Low speed "hiccup". I've tried a lot of things before I opened the PCM. Sure enough, leaking capacitor. Now to find one before Tuesday A.M.
Wow, exact same capacitors as my Bronco ECM. The lower one also took out the yellow 'drop' bellow it. Bad part was the board is extremely burnt.
are you talking about the square yellow non electrolytic cap right beside the electrolytic one? i saw a yellow square cap but didn't replace it my eyes arent so good anymore and i could not tell it's value maybe .33uf. my ranger is running better but still stumbles at idle sometimes wished i had took the time to order that one too.
Great Video, I just pulled my out of my 93 Bronco 5.8 F2TF-CC, 2 of my we actually bad but looks like all 3 need to replace. Thanks for the video... You should accept ones for repair, I would pay you to fix mine :)
Thanks! Been throwing money (not a lot yet) at my Ranger the last couple years and I saw your video. Pulled the ECM on my 93 Ranger 4.0 after having the "ghost" codes and missing like a popcorn popper along with other crazy running issues. My caps were incredibly corroded with broken conductors. Anyway I went ahead and ordered a rebuilt ECM (haven't received it yet). Wish I could send you the pics of the component board so people could see how bad mine were. Let me know if you would like them to use for additional educational purposes. Again, thanks!
I'm not aware of any ecm schematics available to the public, the only thing Ive seen are pin-out schematics not component level. I would check for a consistent power to your coil, the wire that leads from the tfi module to the coil has a joint that corrodes and eventually it will just die and not start again. I had it happen to me and it took a couple weeks to find and fix, I had voltage at the coil, but the wire was so corroded that it couldn't carry enough current to fire the coil. I wasn't checking the voltage while cranking the engine, only with the key on.
Thanks a lot bro! Worked like a charm.
Well, Pulled my ECM and it has been re-manufactured apparently. Whoever did it replaced the 10uF capacitor with another 47uF one though!!! I am going to replace it with a 10uF and keep my fingers crossed that this was causing my miss/stumble. Hopefully nothing else is damaged from this incorrect capacitor.
Did that fix it?
I wish you would have shown actually taking them out. I'm sure trying to get everything on camera is no small feat. Thanks for your time
I also had the same problem thanks for the information one capacitor burnt
Steve great video. Just order the caps thanks for the link to the shopping cart.
all 3 caps are bad is what my eye ball meter is showing
94 Ford Bronco 5.8, auto.truck had set for a couple years getting it back on the road.
has all ways run like a champ
got out the old gas. new gas,new filter,new battery fired right up.
2 weeks later hard to start then high idle (2000 rpm) changed a sensor E.C.T. then NO start
Fuel pump would just keep running not the 2 second and stop (the prime routine).
Mine is the same looking ECM as your but the 47uf are 16 volt i think the 25 volt will be OK
Thanks, sounds like the caps will fix it.The higher voltage caps will be fine.
@@SteveStoltz what happens if I just get one from a junkyard ? Will it need to be reprogram? 94 crown Victoria not starting . Ford mechanic said that the computer is bad $680 at the dealer
@@pakosilva373 If you get one from a car with the same drive train you should be OK, I would still replace the caps though.
My 4.9l has the same symptoms..
People may not believe me & I would not either my uncle bought this car 2001 Buick Century and the ECM has issues when we took it out & looked at it by opening it up. We was stunned what was inside of it. Someone put Transmission fluid inside the ECM. This was deliberate to sabotage the ECM there is no way Transmission fluid to get in there because it's impossible it is sealed.
theese type caps were in tv sets were common failure items especially 1 uf .47uf.10uf . types green colored also .
I'll have to take a look at mine. I keep getting a PCM fault 1 or Can't connect to PCM. I have a 2005 ford freestar. If this ends up fixing my problems you will have my gratitude. Thanks for the Video.
The 05 computer is a little different than this one, but there is still the possibility of cap leakage. Likely the caps are surface mount(I haven't been in one to confirm this). If that is the case a UV light will make it easier to find leakers. The UV light will cause the leaked electrolyte to glow white.
@@SteveStoltz the caps look to be mounted in a socket but no visible signs of leaking. I have a UV light so will check that next. Otherwise the board looks clean with no corrosion. Still get the error 1 or 2 on the computer. Thanks for the quick reply!
Well, no leaking caps and no corrosion. Now however it looks like the security has locked out the starter. I have a few suggestions to try to reset it . Wish me luck.
@@tadwyn Well that sucks, that's strange being its the original computer.
@@SteveStoltz Somewhere along the line the computer may have been changed. Before I got the vehicle.
make sure to use Very good high quality caps and they must be LOW ESR rated and HIGH TEMP
Its unlikely that powerwashing would have shorted the ecm, its tucked away pretty well. I would check the fuel pump relay first, its pretty out in the open (can you hear the pump hum momentarily when you turn the key on?). Second pull the distributor cap and soak the inside down with WD_40. If it still wont start check to see if there is 12 volts at the coil while cranking the engine. Post what you find out and we can go from there.
Great info thanks very much!
I'm sure glad you put this video on. I've been working on a friends 1995 F-250. Fixed the EGR tube, both catalytic converters, gave it a tune up and r and r'ed the o2 sensors. Every thing I did it needed but only ran worse.Your comment about the bucking caught my attention. That's what his is doing . One thing I noticed was after I set the timing at 10 degrees BTDC when I plugged the spout in it retarded the timing by 20 degrees or so.Did you notice this problem on yours ? Thanks for the info .
+Cponyman49 I had my base timing set to 12 btdc, but I never checked it with the spout connected, so I cant really give you an educated answer. I know the ecm adjust the timing but retarding it 20 seems extreme, if I remember correctly the engine idles up when the spout is plugged back in, which would make me think the timing is advancing rather than retarding. What your otherwise describing about the engine sounds like a case of bad capacitors though.
I pulled the ecm and lo and behold , no capacitors. Replaced the coolant sensor and it helped but still that low throttle bucking and spitting. I'll check the tps and if that's not it . Any way thanks for the reply.
Following up.I got so caught up in high tech didn't look at the basics. Couple bad plug wires. Suckers went bad as I was driving. All good now.
Parts come in today. All 3 of my compacitors were blown
Amazing job with that ECM, and yes, with these trucks all you need to run is cooper spark-plugs and you should be fine. I have a question: My 93 Bronco stop working after a power wash and I suspect it could be a short in the ECM. If that's so is that easily repairable? if it popped some caps would it stop working? the engine turns but it won't start.
Anybody knows is I can get one from the junkyard and just plug and play or it needs to be reprogram or something? 94 crown Victoria not starting
I started to go crazy replacing parts. Not Good.. I did 10 things or so took intake plenum off to clean and replace w/ fel pro o rings, Spark plugs, wires, coil pack, cleaned Mass air flow sensor, cleaned Throttle body both sides, valve cover gaskets and pvc valve and grommet . You wouldn't believe the improvement after resetting ECU and also my 5k Mobil 1 synthetic oil change 5/30w/ filter.. Noticed Serpentine belt needed replacement so done. For the most part my 2002 explorer XLT 4 wheel drive V6 4.0 has a few small items left I want to do but is leaps and bounds Better concerning rough idle (gets worse as u go with in a few months) bad fuel mileage, an aggravating jerking between 30mph-48mph then would disappear over 50 moh., But needed to disengage OD at rpm 1700 or less, I forgot to mention replacing both external Timing chain tensioners with crush washers ( make sure u use alittle grease to hold gasket n place til u torque at 65 lbs) real easy to get a bad oil leak if u catch gasket wrong.... That was drivability but I also had to get my car rite front lower ball joints,ckd all control arm bushings, replaced front sway bar end links hardware and bushing kits, ckd tie rods, steering links,and greased front end. Then replacement of the front driver side hub/bearing assembly what a mother!!! So all I can say is when you decide to buy a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4 wheel drive V6(1450 dollars) with 240k miles be ready to do your homework and if u talk the talk u walk the walk and fix it Right... By the way, body and paint perfect ( Red) someone at least waxed it and did oil changes. Interior perfect / couldn't believe it, everything works even had the tuner/cd/cassette unit that worked.. So yes it is just getting to where I trust driving it w/o hesitation to go wherever. My 1st Ford and a bitch to work on but feel more comfortable with the truck. Good Luck
Thanks for sharing.....did the replacements of the caps solve your transmission problem?
This truck had a manual transmission, but Ive heard others say that it does help some automatic transmission problems.
Thank you. Good to know.
if j port was down 60 pin was up the chip to the right of the top left capacitor is burned or has darkend terminals on couple of my speed density computers does any one know exactly what its for im having all kinds problems but have had capactors replaced
Haha, a 6L6 vacuum tube! Tube amps were how I learned to solder also.
I had an E350 earlier this year with bad caps, but they had burnt through the circuit board, so I just replaced the ECM. Now I have an F150 with the same symptoms as your truck...bucking hesitating, but the board is o.k. so I want to see how you replace the caps as one of them has a burnt lead. P.S. Fender Pro-Sonic here.
I think that tube was left over from a Bad Kat repair I had just completed, lol
Bad Cats are nice amps. By the way I replaced one of the caps that had a burnt lead and she ran like a champ.
Awesome.
Interesting Thanks for posting this
A bad capacitor should not have any conductivity between the posts right?
Also, how do you tell which side is negative and positive in the board, since the capacitor in it has the legs cut?
It depends on how the cap fails, they can fail either shorted or open, in these the legs usually just corrode off lol. If you look at the pads on the board where the cap goes the square pad is the positive leg.
Did replacing the capacitors resolve the problem?
I've been doing some component level electronic repair but more so on LCD TV's and an XBOX 360 someone gave me that I need to do a CPU/GPU reball on it. Someone also gave me a PS3 that was broken and I was able to fix that too.
Hi Mr. I was wondering question what does it make it to got burn the capacity just old or bad connection on circuits thanks for the wonderful video?
Would you repair for someone if they paid you? You made it seem easy but I briefly tried just to Desodder the capacitors and I wasn’t comfortable trying passed that
thanks for the reply man
Great video
My 97 350 turns off randomly and loses power around 50 mph, I’m sure when I look into it this will be the problem
Vídeo bueno,, Of Tijjuana baja calif. México.yyeeaaa. gracias.
I wonder if you can flash the firmware in the computer with some update or maybe a high performance firmware.
May have saved the computer if a cap goes to dead short it causes irreversible damage.
Where would I find a ECM on a 1994 Ford Aerostar where were the where does located picture
where do buy the capacitors and all that?
What is the defect of your vehicle that caused the exchange of capacitors, I do not speak English, the caption of the video was not clear, can you explain?
The motor started running very erratic, there were no trouble codes and doing a tune up didn't help at all. I had read somewhere that someone replaced the ECM and it fixed the similar problem that they were having. I decided to take it apart and check it out before buying a new one and that's when I saw how badly the caps had leaked.
Steve Stoltz Thanks for the info.
great video, good repair. ive been looking for more advanced computer repair videos, you dont know where i can find any do you?
John Y Diana Medlock Thanks, I'm not aware of any videos specific to ECM's, sorry.
Thanks for the very good video=) Should you put any protective coating after you done with soldering?? Like liquid spray?? Thanks=)
Thanks, A protective coating certainly wouldn't do any harm.
What kind of spray/ liqouid would you recommend?? Thanks=)
Acrylic Conformal Coating from MG chemicals or something similar, they have it in brush on form as well.
OK, thanks! you can order that on line??
Aloha Steve, I will be replacing my ecm , where is the best company to order a replacement?
My go to is Rockauto but any auto parts store should be able to get you one.
@@SteveStoltz the companies that repair the engine computers or send you a repaired one, are they any good. I have a 1990 e150, I don't think they are available new.
Great vid! This just happened on my a9l computer for my foxbody Mustang, same capacitors as yours. What part number are these and where can I get them? I have no idea about this stuff and was told to get those same reference numbers as yours. Thnx for any help you could send my way.
i am having the same issue with my 1990 ford f150 lariat xlt. i opened the ECm and i can see one of the capacitors is bunt where it's attached to the mother board. it looks like the mother board is burnt. will replacing the capacitor repair this issue or should i just replace the entire unit? i'm not a trained mechanic and can only do simple jobs. i tinker basically, so my first instinct is to replace the entire unit. my problem is the ECM i pulled from my truck has NO PART #. Even the local ford dealer was stumped and could not help me locate the right part. whats my next step? how can i locate the Part # or get the Calibration Code as instructed by the dealership?
If the burn marks where caused by the cap itself, swapping the caps would likely be all that was needed, provided that the traces etc are intact.
As long as you get an ECM from a truck with the same engine/transmission combo (salvage yard ?). The truck "should" run OK, Ive swapped them around an didn't notice anything that was obviously apparent in how they ran. Although that info probably wont help you much at most parts counters. Personally, I would go the salvage yard route, if replacing the caps doesn't solve the problem in your current ECM.
Hello sir, so I had similar issues with my 95 f150 4.9. It would slam into second and third gear. I pulled my eec out and the same cap that you said was bad on yours was burned out on mine. It had a little damage around the cap but I bought a new one and put it in there. I put it back in and it's still doing the same thing. Idk if I did not make a good connection or what, because while trying to get the film off the board around the cap, I pulled up one of the metal strips that runs to the cap. I layer it back down and I think I got it connected with the solder. I guess it would not have ran otherwise. Should I replace the other caps like you did as well? If it's not this I think it has to be the cluster, Vehicle Speed Sensor, or the transmission solenoid pack.
I would replace them first, since it the cheapest option. As for the lifted trace, as long as the trace didn't break and it soldered well it should be fine. Adding a little hot glue around the cap will help secure it and prevent the trace from cracking in the future due to vibration.
@@SteveStoltz thank you sir
Can you link the website to buy the Caps and what there item numbers are please?
Good Idea. I added a link in the description, there are many brands you can choose from this supplier but I prefer Panasonics.
Ofcorse I’d need some of these during Covid and there on back order. Don’t want to spend 100-400 on a new computer either
I have a 1997 ford ranger I think I have a problem with the ecu and with your video I see capacitors in your video I do not see any in mine if you have any information I will surly be thankful
Nous remercions pour vos écarts. Nous voulons la version française aussi svp.
Changed over 1000 dollars in parts when i could have pulled my co.puter been 2 years buddy thank you so fucking much ! 3 capacitors
Glad you got it figured out. I'm sorry you went through 1k before finding the solution.
All good. What motor is this ? 351w with e4od ?
This one had the 4.9 with the m5od 5 speed.
One more question what were the capacitor sizes
1 x 10uf 63v and 2 x 47uf 25v
would you be interested in fixing the ecv iv in my 91 mustang? the fuel pump runs constantly and the car won't start. everything I've read points at the computer. Tomorrow I'm putting a computer from my other mustang in it to be definite
I have a 96 ford ranger and it bucks when i turn it on, and sometimes when i turn it on its completely fine for long drives. Do you think this is the problem?......... or do i need a premium battery to energize the computer when the key turns.
+chris paris The caps could be the culprit, especially when its an intermittent problem, but it could also be a sticky egr valve. I doubt its your battery causing the bucking, since once started the alternator should bring the voltage up to an acceptable level, but if the battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts while cranking its on its last leg and you should replace it.
Thanks, i really appreciate that, im going to give it a try, i just replaced the plug wires with generics, im going to try motorcraft now. I'll test the battery too and let you now, thanks again.
Great video, Steve. Can you tell me how to open the Ecm to get to the circuits? I tried searching online, but it seems like everyone who asked the question was met with, "Why do you want to do that" questions instead of an answer. Thanks a ton for the advice so far!
As for as I can remember there are some screws holding the covers on, just remove those and gently pry the covers off.
Thank you! You were right. That's all there was to it. I apologize. Another thread I read online led me to believe that it was going to be quite difficult. Thanks again.
Hi Steve Have a 1996 E350 van stubbling at all RPMs Ran across your very informable video on this fix to the PCM. when I removed the PCM and openned it up one of the capacitors had leaked all around that board area and a corroded leg. Installed three new capacitors the problem went away. Delt with that problem for years had it to two different shops and they keep telling me it was internal.
have a 1997 Merc Grand Marquis now has no initial fuel pump prime but when power is supplied to fuel pump car runs can this be the same issue with this
PCM? Thanks SO MUCH ALL THE BEST
Dennis E. L
Thanks, I'm glad it helped get your van running well again. I don't know for sure about the Marquis but it wouldn't hurt to pull the Ecm and take a look for leakers, even if they aren't leaking Id just change them while its out.
Thanks for the reply Steve do intend to do the same with the Marquis and when it is complete I will let you know the results. Enjoy Your Weekend
Dennis
Do you desolder it from the front or the backside?
From the underside mainly, but you'll probably need to clean it up on the top once you get the pins out.
I am having an issue where my bronco shuts off with no warning. replaced or checked everything in the ignition and vacuum systems and pulled the ECM. I found the same thing on the caps and replaced them but it did not solve the issue. Anyone know of full ECM schematics ?
Did you remove the conformal coating to check damaged copper traces? My 1995 Taurus has SMD Caps and I had to fix the broken traces before installing new caps.
The traces were OK, the rubber coating protected the board well with the through hole caps. I can see how smt parts could leak directly to the copper, then the coating would basically seal the corrosive substance in.
did you ever solve the other 5% of the bucking/hesitation problem ?
Yes, I made a restrictor plate for the egr valve. I sandwiched a piece of sheet metal between two egr gaskets and drilled an 1/8th inch hole in the sheet metal. Ive also read of people using a 3/4 inch washer with a small hole and putting it in the egr tube where it connects to the valve. Apparently ford used an egr that was too big for the application and over time it gummes up the inside of the intake or something along those lines,or so Ive read. Whatever the cause, the restrictor plate did the trick.
Bravo Well Done
trying to remove mine but cant get it out i have unscrewed and loosened and removed the harness. but it wont come out. and it should come through the engine bay yes?
Yes it will come out of the engine bay, if you remove some of the screws holding the inner fender in you'll be able to move it enough to squeeze it past the fenderwell.
i pulled it through the cab couldnt get fender liner out stripped bolts i pried it with a few wrenches loosened the the aluminum bracket and wiggled it out. so it is possible.
Megan Halstrom that’s good to know, I didn’t realize it could be pulled out from under the dash without a lot of headaches.
@@SteveStoltz and very good video it fixed my issue i didnt have to replace anything but there was quite a bit of dust and corrosion that seeped through so i cleaned it with nail polish remover then hit it with the contact cleaner. wire brushed the outside as there was alot of corrossion then i siliconed the outside of it so the water didnt get back. i only loosened the bolts on the aluminum bracket and i did have to remove the kick panel and ebrake and hood release then i used a few wrenches to push up on the bracket at the end it was a bit tight but it will come through the cab. i just wanted to document this with your vid incase others have the same issue with the fender liner... your video was the best to describe what needed to be addressed. and my truck was slamming gears rough idle and just didn't run well. frustrating but there was a light at the end of the tunnel.
If I want to learn how to fix ecm, ecu, computer car modules. What special skill should i have? can knowledge of computer hardware/motherboard repair be of use?
Steve thank you for posting video, I'm having a problem with hesitation, feels like I'm going over a bumpy road when I get to 20/25 mph and above, and also felt it at a higher speed. Seems like it's intermittent that happens more often than not. When it idle's it sounds fine, or when in park and rev engine it also sounds fine. What do yo think. could this ECU be my issue. I changed map sensor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, replaced gas filter, disconnected O2 sensor, there's no catalytic converter. Also checked timing, I'm looking now at replacing knock sensor and maybe pickup coil in distributor or just replace the whole distributor. My truck is a 87 f150 5.0 302 the computer should be located on drivers side firewall or close to it on fender ? Thanks any help will be greatly appreciated
Being that you've already changed most of the common culprits there's a good chance that it is bad caps. I'd definitely change caps before spending money on anything else, the ecm is on the drivers side below the brake booster.
@@SteveStoltz ok I'll check it out Saturday, on the f150 does it pull out on engine side or under dash. Thank you so much for getting back to me. Hope this is my problem
@@nickpanhead7209
Hi, just to confirm please. It was your ÉCU ?
@@fredmasse6451 not sure what it was I had a shop work on it previous about a 3 weeks earlier. And then started having that problem. I brought it back to him and he changed cap n rotor wires and plugs and fuel filter. But same problem. He adjusted the timing, same problem. He did a bunch of stuff, he said he removed a ecu from a bronco but it was still doing same thing. But I'm not sure I'm believing him. The truck is not doing that anymore. But I didn't get a straight answer from him what it was. I feel it was something he did 3 weeks prior. The only thing the truck does now and did before I brought it to him, is the idle goes up and down four to five times before it settles. I'm looking into that now , what's causing it.
@@nickpanhead7209
Thank for your answer.
That’s a common problem on these Ford , cold start and various idle few times before going regular.
My 89 E250 351w EFI doing that too. I see an old Ford paper advertisement where was script « with EFI engine , don’t push the gas pedal before or when start, just turn the ignition key » I doing that always now and don’t have anymore the problem. Don’t know if can work for you ...
I'm told these capacitors only have a max lifespan of 15 years.
this happened to dads 94 f150 except it just kept flooding and I eventually pulled the Ecu after finding no voltage going to sensors one cap puked the others leg rotted off we replaced Ecu
Would have nicer to know if the fix worked???
JungleYT i mentioned it in the description
OK... Got it! My '86 Toyota Cressida is having the same problem right now. We're down to replacing the ECM. Hope that sh*t works? Rebuilt engine, new fuel and air filters, rebuilt injectors, what else is left?
JungleYT have you checked fuel pressure? That could add to bucking.
Yeah, my mechanic put a special gauge on it to check the fuel pump and pressure... Said he'd hook it back up with the new ECM to check again.
Hey Steve I have ECU that won't let my car start unless I get a heat gun and warm the face of the ECU up and get it warm to the touch could it be that one of the resisters are loose pls if you have any suggestions it be great to hear from you thanx
That could be a bad solder connection, but likely there is a component that is failing, that by heating it brings it back into spec. Take the lid off and check the around the component legs for any sign of cold or cracked solder joints, especially around transistors and power resistors. If that all checks out you can try heating specific areas of the board (if possible) to try and pinpoint what component is failing. Thanks for watching
Help please!
Hello how are you? I have a problem when I lock the car board my computer doesn't turn off and my battery runs out. This happens when I unlock if the cd radio does not work. When it doesn't turn on, the computer doesn't turn off when I lock it. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t work. When the radio is running normally, the on-board computer shuts down on time. If you don't know, maybe the problem is with the computer, what if you had similar experiences. Greeting
www.focusst.org/threads/wheres-the-ecu-located.17977/#lg=thread-17977&slide=1
@@SteveStoltz this is at pasinger seat?
@@SteveStoltz But do you think this problem is because my Ecu does not word properly or something else. Thanks for responding!
@@liquidvenom9963 I have no knowledge of the focus, but it’s seems like something isn’t telling the ecu to turn off rather than the ecu being bad. I have no idea really.
@@SteveStoltz yes. Thats is my opinion too. I went to licenced fors service they told me that eveeithing look fine but this mistake is repeating...
Do you happen to have a schematic for that ECM. I have looked around for one and can not find one.
Sorry I don't. Ive tried finding schematics as well and couldn't find any.
Nice work, I am planning to pull out my Mustang ECM also...., it is "acting" up, gives me very high idle??/, and code P0443, also "check fuel cap" pops up, can't find leak anywhere???, do you think Mustang 2004, has similar PCM/ECM? Where did you order those capacitors??Ebay?? Thanks, I will do this, and one more thing: did this help your car?? Thanks, youtheman=)
Thanks, The ECM in your 2004 would be an OBD2, but there may be filter caps in it that could leak just like the ones in this one, though they may be surface mounted and not through hole. You would have to pull it out to check the capacitor values and package type, as they are likely different from the older computers. I buy most of my parts at digikey.com.
OK, Thanks =)
So, my 2004 is OBD2, and capacitors are not like in this one?? How can I tell they are bad though?? I am sure they, or at least one is bad, since how car behaves, high idle, aso!!!
They may be different, but I'm not positive. You would have to pull the ecu to check them out. Sometimes you can see leaking electrolyte with a uv light in the case of surface mount caps.
So, if "surface mount caps" are bad/ leaking, you can see that?? Take old ones out with heat gun, or solder iron?? And easy to solder new-ones in?? They also have neg/pos sides?? Well marked?? Thanks a lot, youtheman =)
Does a code come up for a bad computer when running the scanner. or is it better to take it out
and inspect .
i have a 1991 4.9 ford f150 i have changed a lot of sensors and parts
i thing i notice that helped was the icm. But my truck keeps burning them up over time?? it still has a random miss while sitting still
the exhaust has a rich smell to it
It won't throw any codes, that's what makes it so difficult to diagnose. The only way to check it is to pull it out and look.
These model ford trucks have a problem with the windshield leaking in the corner and running down into the computer. If you keep blowing computers make sure your windshield isn't leaking.
what does the 10mf capacitor do?
A capacitor is usually it used to smooth out voltage (sort of acts as a little battery)
Did you solve the issue?
Yes, mostly. the drivability was greatly improoved. It was almost undrivable prior to replacing the caps.
@@SteveStoltz I tip my hat to you sir… Only after I left my comment did I realize that the post was six years old, or around there? But you get a reply same day on an older video,; that’s legendary!
I am definitely not even close to that skill level of being able to solder the ECM, call I saw this as I am searching for solutions to my issue… 95 coachman Catalina class A, ford 460 EFI, it idles GREAT, hit the Excelerator while in park, no problem. Drop it into gear and put the engine under load, begins to sputter/backfire and fall right on its face…
I would assume if my issue lies within the ECM, it would be a “all or nothing“ type of situation rather than chance under load.
If you’d like to leave I guess as to my issue, I will read it! Lol
But nonetheless I enjoyed your video, it’s always great to see someone stick it to the man and fix some thing rather than spend thousands on replacing it.
Thank you again and take care!
-LJ
@@LJWalter78 It never hurts to check and confirm that the caps are in fact still good, but something I remember from back in the day when I had a truck with the e40d is that there was an issue that could arise when putting the truck in gear the trans would pull so much current that it would almost cause the truck to stall. I don't remember the details but if you have that trans it may be something to investigate further.
you can get the capasaters at radio shack 69 cents
R.I.P. Radioshack
I have a 94 f150 it kills up hill at stop signs and has poor acceleration I’ve put over 2k in the truck I haven’t changed the computer though think it can be the fix??
I'd definitely try it, capacitors are cheap.
What size Torx bit are the small screws on the end?
I don’t remember, I just used whatever fit.
Thanks
Thanks Steve. Jack n Baton Rouge
Did you measure your ref. voltage before and after you made repairs?
I didnt.
Hey man hows it going? I actually have the other green diode that went bad in mine. Do you have the link for that one? I tried looking it up and it seems like there is a bunch of different ones. Just don't wanna order the wrong one
And what's the easiest way to get the capacitors? I tried the links that you posted in the info page and they are making me wait for my profile to be activated? Is that normal?
I don't have one handy to take a look, I didn't need any diodes when I did this one.
@@kcdc1796 if you have a local electronics shop they will have them. Otherwise I use digikey mouser or newark online. I think they all require an account, but you shouldn't need to wait.