did you ever find out the solution? First you should pull the codes, next check the Schroeder valve, they do go bad. Replace it with a red or a blue ring Schroeder rated for aircraft or Automotive fuel. Next check the fuel pressure control valve, can see how on you youtube. lastly change your fuel filter found just under the driver side of the vehicle let me know please
i had the same problem and chased it for almost year. i found that out only by the paper clip trick. the ecm had be replaced before but it was a junkyard one. the caps leaked too bad because they were original to that ecm. i ended up buying one off ebay that wasnt refurb'ed and took a chance on recapping it myself. if anyone goes the route i took. id suggest taking a pic of cap orientation, they are also polarity to watch for and try to keep the voltage and uF the same or slightly higher. if you go lower theyll pop lol. also use electronic flux and solder because cold solders can cause the same problem. i put the pcm in a ziplock bagover it then put it back in place. and that spot moisture, water can easily to get into it. as well as water dripping on the MAP sensor,. i made a water deflector to put over it, she fired up coughed a small black cloud then immediately kicked the check engine and ran better than ever. good luck to people who hasnt figured it out yet
You need a I had the same thing on the same truck and put a fuel pump on it and it stopped doing that and it made eight codes go off so I don't have that many codes anymore fuel pump
Egr valve and the 2 solenoids that control the egr. My egr was stuck open, only pumping in exhaust fumes not allowing the proper f-a mixture. Haven't had A problem since. I shot gunned parts at it 1 at a time. Map sensor... Same...tps... Same... New distributor... Same... Fuel pressure sensor... Same... Then tested the solenoids on the driver side back off the motor attached to a bracket. Both off those were non functional, replaced those and the egr valve, voila... Problem solved.
I have a 95 mine did the exact same thing, I diagnosed everything I could without throwing my wallet at it , seen this video last week ordered a new pcm it came in today installed it runs like a dream
I removed my air duct to change the distributor and my truck did the same thing. Put the air duct back on. These trucks will not run right with the air duct off.
My 1993 f150 with inline 6 Is wont start Until you turn the key on and let the pump run until the pump cuts off, and then it will start And I have changed the. Fuel valve on the fuel rail the front fuel pump is 4year old an The rear fuel pump is two years old
My 92 has both fuel pumps and leaky gas tanks replaced. Turned out to be tank swich burned. Fix that problem. Now new problem. Jurks and missing lack of power after it warms up. By accident I pulled wires off temp sensor on thermostat stat. Runs great though cheak engine light on. Truck been in family 17 years now 300 000 plus miles. It's about to die though, due to very severe rust.
Having a very similar issue. I’ve replaced the PCM already but this helped a lot actually. Every forum I have found with this issue is from so long ago and they never include what actually was the issue but i’m going to try and get a cheap pcm and test if it works. Thank you
Mine is stalling after running and it’s hot out side. Now I can’t get it started back up but I have to rev it up constantly and if I stop it’ll die and won’t start back up. I have replaced everything except for the tps but when I have it on the front tank it runs like crap just spits and stutters constantly but on the back it runs fine until I’ve driven it 30min-1hour
@@Wolflight68 My issue was my cheap fuel pumps. Mine went bad about a year ago, I replaced them with some ebay crap and they worked for a couple months and stopped again. I replaced them again with Delphi pumps and it works perfect now.
@@cartastrophe alright now idk what fuel pumps the previous owner had put in but I’ve been chasing down this issue for a year now I thought I had it fixed until it hit over 100% outside last month. So I’ve been stuck with no where to go
I had a recurring issue similar to this and tried almost everything. Ford even replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator that had been recalled but never replaced on mine. I'm easily the 3rd owner. I kept beating this stall issue to death and finally at the end of the internet discovered somebody else with this problem. The issue was one or both Relays in your black box on the driver's side. One relay powers up the EEC and the other powers up the Fuel Injectors. I have Not had a Fuel Starvation Stall or failure to start since. $18 a piece at a Dealership...there are 3 of them...two only need be replaced to resolve this, unless something else is out of whack?
Thank you for tip. Mine keeps stalling when it’s hot out I have replaced every thing on the engine electric wise,map sensor,spark plugs and wires,distributor, air flow sensor,icm,temp sensor,and cleaned the tps. But it still dies randomly and only when it’s over 95% outside oddly enough any other suggestions? I’m losing my mind at this point 😅
The cost of keeping an old truck running is more expensive than buying a newer model sometimes. Taking care of little issues as they occur won't necessarily cost you less but maybe spread that cost over a longer period of time.
Unless one has no clue new trucks are much more expensive than keeping an old one running. $3200 for 1996 F 150 that needed a new thermostat for $17 is certainly cheaper than a few months payment on the new and incredibly expensive F150
prices of new trucks are insane for the price to buy a used 90s truck and rebuild the engine and new transmission is still cheaper then buying new by miles at least you know what your putting into the truck and learn how to work on ur vehicle along the way
Change your cold start sensor should be in the intake manifold. Tells the engine hey I'm cold I need some more fuel after the engine warms up it says hey I'm warm don't need that much fuel. Cold start sensor
Glad you fixed it. My 88 had a bad ground connector on my negative battery terminal. A short black wire going into the wiring harness. My battery had no hold down, so when the battery would slide a little, I would lose the ground to my PCM. One day I moved the battery with the key on and heard the PCM come to life and the fuel pump came on. Not the problem you had but sharing for others.
My 92 is doing the same exact thing, replaced everything, including the PCM(MAP) getting ready to check fuel injectors, anyone try that? Any solutions out there?
I’m having the same issue, I’ve gone through absolutely everything, the only part that I have changed or replaced is the ecm! I’m going to replace the ecm and I’ll post if I make progress and or it’s a successful fix!
Angela Broadbent I have a 92 as well. Same issue and I just found fuel coming out of a line under the hood middle of the firewall. Trying to figure it out now.
I think you may have a bad Ground wire from the body of the cab to the frame. Its very common on obs fords. Normally you wouldn't think a ground to the body and frame would cause a fuel delivery issue but for some reason with the way they wired those trucks it causes all kinds of fuel and spark issues that will not get fixed until you replace all the branded stainless steel grounds.
hey man i am trying to get on of these running its been sitting for years it wil crank over like she is fresh off the show room floor but i aint getting no fuel the relay and fuses are fine and it has fresh gas in there .i know its fuel related cause i shoot some break cleaner in there and it fires up off that but it will die any tips
@@mikeverything4098 honestly I'm not an expert by any means and am learning daily like the rest of us but it sounds like it's either you fuel pump is on its last leg and barely working or your ECU is going out and causing your fuel pump to short out after firing up. In my case my ECU was messing with the fuel pump bad but it was caused from having bad body ground wires. The body to frame ground wires are super important on OBS f150s. You need like one on each side of the body and one on the coresupport to frame aswell. That's the one that got me.
@@rickylee6129 yes... all fords seem to have this electrical issue with grounds. But honestly it just living in the rust belt that does it. I have a 99 super duty. Does the same.
Don't forget to check your coil wires
Following
Icv?
Its a family thing we do
Happy thanks giving yummy turkey
What is this crap mtg showen us how to kill .AHs
did you ever find out the solution? First you should pull the codes, next check the Schroeder valve, they do go bad. Replace it with a red or a blue ring Schroeder rated for aircraft or Automotive fuel. Next check the fuel pressure control valve, can see how on you youtube. lastly change your fuel filter found just under the driver side of the vehicle let me know please
Cranking an engine means turning a starter motor.
i had the same problem and chased it for almost year. i found that out only by the paper clip trick. the ecm had be replaced before but it was a junkyard one. the caps leaked too bad because they were original to that ecm. i ended up buying one off ebay that wasnt refurb'ed and took a chance on recapping it myself. if anyone goes the route i took. id suggest taking a pic of cap orientation, they are also polarity to watch for and try to keep the voltage and uF the same or slightly higher. if you go lower theyll pop lol. also use electronic flux and solder because cold solders can cause the same problem. i put the pcm in a ziplock bagover it then put it back in place. and that spot moisture, water can easily to get into it. as well as water dripping on the MAP sensor,. i made a water deflector to put over it, she fired up coughed a small black cloud then immediately kicked the check engine and ran better than ever. good luck to people who hasnt figured it out yet
Fuel pressure regulator
You need a I had the same thing on the same truck and put a fuel pump on it and it stopped doing that and it made eight codes go off so I don't have that many codes anymore fuel pump
Egr valve and the 2 solenoids that control the egr. My egr was stuck open, only pumping in exhaust fumes not allowing the proper f-a mixture. Haven't had A problem since. I shot gunned parts at it 1 at a time. Map sensor... Same...tps... Same... New distributor... Same... Fuel pressure sensor... Same... Then tested the solenoids on the driver side back off the motor attached to a bracket. Both off those were non functional, replaced those and the egr valve, voila... Problem solved.
I have a 95 mine did the exact same thing, I diagnosed everything I could without throwing my wallet at it , seen this video last week ordered a new pcm it came in today installed it runs like a dream
What is a pcm ?
Yes sir my bf has a 1991 Ford doing these exact issues wanted to know if you figured it out
Im having the same issue. Did you ever fix it?
Same here man
I removed my air duct to change the distributor and my truck did the same thing. Put the air duct back on. These trucks will not run right with the air duct off.
My 1993 f150 with inline 6 Is wont start Until you turn the key on and let the pump run until the pump cuts off, and then it will start And I have changed the. Fuel valve on the fuel rail the front fuel pump is 4year old an The rear fuel pump is two years old
Mine is doing the same thing. Lmk what you find to fix it.
Check the icm on the fender and replace it
My 92 has both fuel pumps and leaky gas tanks replaced. Turned out to be tank swich burned. Fix that problem. Now new problem. Jurks and missing lack of power after it warms up. By accident I pulled wires off temp sensor on thermostat stat. Runs great though cheak engine light on. Truck been in family 17 years now 300 000 plus miles. It's about to die though, due to very severe rust.
Mine does this exact thing
Hook your hoses back up and try it your mass not working unless hooked up
Check for exhaust blockage
Pcm for sure?
Fired off that parts cannon
Having a very similar issue. I’ve replaced the PCM already but this helped a lot actually. Every forum I have found with this issue is from so long ago and they never include what actually was the issue but i’m going to try and get a cheap pcm and test if it works. Thank you
Mine is stalling after running and it’s hot out side. Now I can’t get it started back up but I have to rev it up constantly and if I stop it’ll die and won’t start back up. I have replaced everything except for the tps but when I have it on the front tank it runs like crap just spits and stutters constantly but on the back it runs fine until I’ve driven it 30min-1hour
@@Wolflight68 My issue was my cheap fuel pumps. Mine went bad about a year ago, I replaced them with some ebay crap and they worked for a couple months and stopped again. I replaced them again with Delphi pumps and it works perfect now.
@@cartastrophe alright now idk what fuel pumps the previous owner had put in but I’ve been chasing down this issue for a year now I thought I had it fixed until it hit over 100% outside last month. So I’ve been stuck with no where to go
I had a recurring issue similar to this and tried almost everything. Ford even replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator that had been recalled but never replaced on mine. I'm easily the 3rd owner. I kept beating this stall issue to death and finally at the end of the internet discovered somebody else with this problem. The issue was one or both Relays in your black box on the driver's side. One relay powers up the EEC and the other powers up the Fuel Injectors. I have Not had a Fuel Starvation Stall or failure to start since. $18 a piece at a Dealership...there are 3 of them...two only need be replaced to resolve this, unless something else is out of whack?
Thank you for tip. Mine keeps stalling when it’s hot out I have replaced every thing on the engine electric wise,map sensor,spark plugs and wires,distributor, air flow sensor,icm,temp sensor,and cleaned the tps. But it still dies randomly and only when it’s over 95% outside oddly enough any other suggestions? I’m losing my mind at this point 😅
Did you ever figure it out I have a 92 with same problem if so please let me know I would appreciate it
It may be the engine control module coputer
The cost of keeping an old truck running is more expensive than buying a newer model sometimes. Taking care of little issues as they occur won't necessarily cost you less but maybe spread that cost over a longer period of time.
Unless one has no clue new trucks are much more expensive than keeping an old one running. $3200 for 1996 F 150 that needed a new thermostat for $17 is certainly cheaper than a few months payment on the new and incredibly expensive F150
The new trucks are built to break you spend $60,000 on a new truck and then it breaks two months later
prices of new trucks are insane for the price to buy a used 90s truck and rebuild the engine and new transmission is still cheaper then buying new by miles at least you know what your putting into the truck and learn how to work on ur vehicle along the way
And far more reliable
I don’t know how many new trucks can go 250,xxx and keep going with parts and labor replacement that cheap and easy.
Pcm problem
Always check the fuel breaker switch first on the passenger side kick panel!!.. .
I had some kind of minor accident once. That part kicked. My buddy showed up to help and he checked that. And bam it started.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂just pour some premium gas ⛽️ all over the Rust Bucket 🪣 😂😂😂and light it up😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Did you replace the fuel filter?
Also check the transfer switch on the dash. I had on go out on me.
Change your cold start sensor should be in the intake manifold. Tells the engine hey I'm cold I need some more fuel after the engine warms up it says hey I'm warm don't need that much fuel. Cold start sensor
Corniest dhit I've ever heard
My dad's truck did the same thing and his was the (ecm) electronic control module good luck w it
Mine was a wire corroded on the fuel relay. Very hard to find. Worked one day not the next.
Fuel filter ?
You mean the engine is cranking, and it would not turn over. And the term "fall on its face" is a term used when talking about the tune
Glad you fixed it. My 88 had a bad ground connector on my negative battery terminal. A short black wire going into the wiring harness. My battery had no hold down, so when the battery would slide a little, I would lose the ground to my PCM. One day I moved the battery with the key on and heard the PCM come to life and the fuel pump came on. Not the problem you had but sharing for others.
My 92 is doing the same exact thing, replaced everything, including the PCM(MAP) getting ready to check fuel injectors, anyone try that? Any solutions out there?
I’m having the same issue, I’ve gone through absolutely everything, the only part that I have changed or replaced is the ecm! I’m going to replace the ecm and I’ll post if I make progress and or it’s a successful fix!
I would deff just try and put some fuel additive injector cleaners and run it for a while before I started messing with the injectors themselves
Angela Broadbent I have a 92 as well. Same issue and I just found fuel coming out of a line under the hood middle of the firewall. Trying to figure it out now.
any one know the diagnostic port on 1995 f 150 please help
It's the PCM(Powertrain Control Module). It's a computer. The maker of this video posted it in earlier comments
Fix for Low Fuel or no Fuel Pressure, Ford F150 ruclips.net/video/wuktkQBWBlw/видео.html
I had the same problem and replaced the PCM which did the trick.
Timing chain
But I do love the old truck can I will fix it
Yes sir I'm going through the same problem but I don't have time to fix it right now so I just went down and got a different vehicle
I think you may have a bad Ground wire from the body of the cab to the frame. Its very common on obs fords. Normally you wouldn't think a ground to the body and frame would cause a fuel delivery issue but for some reason with the way they wired those trucks it causes all kinds of fuel and spark issues that will not get fixed until you replace all the branded stainless steel grounds.
hey man i am trying to get on of these running its been sitting for years it wil crank over like she is fresh off the show room floor but i aint getting no fuel the relay and fuses are fine and it has fresh gas in there .i know its fuel related cause i shoot some break cleaner in there and it fires up off that but it will die any tips
@@mikeverything4098 honestly I'm not an expert by any means and am learning daily like the rest of us but it sounds like it's either you fuel pump is on its last leg and barely working or your ECU is going out and causing your fuel pump to short out after firing up. In my case my ECU was messing with the fuel pump bad but it was caused from having bad body ground wires. The body to frame ground wires are super important on OBS f150s. You need like one on each side of the body and one on the coresupport to frame aswell. That's the one that got me.
@@mikeverything4098 but there are videos on here of people explaining how that ECU can go bad and mess with the fuelpump and other things aswell.
@@pathlawncare744 Does this apply to a 94 F-250 as well?
@@rickylee6129 yes... all fords seem to have this electrical issue with grounds. But honestly it just living in the rust belt that does it. I have a 99 super duty. Does the same.
I would take a bet it is your main ECM-1 OB1 computer...