How to Replace All Engine Vacuum Lines | 95 Ford F150
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- In this video, I show you how to replace the vacuum lines, the vacuum canister, and an AC check valve.
#obsford #engine #vacuumlines
I bought
1 foot of 10 mm
1 foot of 8 mm
5 feet of 6 mm
15 feet of 4mm (I ordered 5 more feet later)
🚧 The links for the vacuum lines and other parts are below👇
www.siliconeint...
Vacuum T fitting - amzn.to/2Wynq6M
🚨COFFEE CAN DISCONTINUED🚨
🚧Below is a link for an alternate Ford vacuum reservoir that works👇
amzn.to/3lh0SzP
⏰ Time Stamps:
0:00 Intro
Welcome to The Minute Masters RUclips Channel where I (Stevie) show you how to repair and upgrade all Ford F series trucks and Broncos from 1980-1997. So hit that subscribe button and be ready to resurrect your baby!🤙
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The project is my 1995 Ford F150 XL 2wd 8 foot bed.
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Jesse, as someone who spent years doing frame off restoration on an Obs , I fully appreciate all u have done for obs community. I know there is so much info that has to be researched and pieced together to have the info you share. Because of the videos you make, you fast track so much for so many. Awesome job.. Thanks for all you have done and do!
Thanks man!🤙 I really appreciate it! I remember having to hunt around for information for another car I owned. It’s definitely nice having it all in one location. Forums are great too but you can spend hours sorting through different threads.
🙏 amen man, you're absolutely right. This guy steve? Other Steve's pale in comparison. My ford is an even minter pile of garbage thanks to the almighty steve
hi minute & newday, hey i'm horrible at posting on YT so i hope i did it in the right spot. i LOVE this video. i have a 1990 ford e350 van, i'm replacing the TPS & pulled the throttle body. the throttle body hast 2 vacuum nipples on right side (on the valve side) the lower connected into a tee to a little valve thingy but the top vacuum nipple had nothing connected, and looks clean like nothing was. this can't be right can it? i've been trying to search diagrams but i'm on my phone only right now and struggling. any help from you & the gurus to help a gal out would be appreciated. i just can't figure out what if any line is supposed to hook up there. when i say top right, i mean that if you're standing in front of van looking back at engine, the egr will be to the left of throttle body, the right side of throttle body has 2 nipples:))) one upper, one lower with that valve sensor thingy in middle, i know where lower hooks up but have no clue where upper does. sorry for the novel. -barbie
@@8barbies779 Hi Barbie, thanks!🤙 I appreciate it.
Did my video not show a vacuum line on the top right side?
@@TheMinuteMasters you know minute, i'll have to rewatch, if my memory serves the camera may not have picked it up but i could be confusing it with some other one's i've watched (i've watched so so many trying to pick up on it) a guy called bustedboosted (i think) did a good one on pulling throttle body & i think i briefly saw a line attached but i couldn't make it out & he didn't talk about it. i think i may have read somewhere that not all the rigs used both but again i've watched so many. the thing is, is that if it indeed doesn't go anywhere important i would think it should be capped off. i have the 5.8 by the way, i can't believe i forgot to mention it. this is driving me crazy because i need to get it back on but i need to figure this out while i can still get to stuff, these van's are crazy hard to get to stuff on the top of the motor. i really appreciate you taking the time to even reply:)))
I'm only 22, and I bought a 94 f150 and looked under the hood. I straight up thought this guy put a coffee can in my truck as some hill billy mod 😂😂
It happens to all of us!😂😂😂
Dude I didn't realize that somebody replaced my battery with a regular car battery until we try to jump it with my boyfriend's truck and I was like, wait. Why is it so much smaller? They wedged in a chunk of two by four next to it so it wouldn't slide around! 😂😂
SAME DUDE! 1983 Ford and I opened it up for the first time and was staring at it a good 2 minutes trying to figure out what the hell a can was doing in my engine bay XD
I thought that was an old can of beans someone left to cook on the manifold
Right! Lolol
Hey Steve just wanted to let you know that I followed your video and started the vacuum lines and already noticed a big difference in the engine performance, while replacing lines I fixed my HVAC default problem and now the dash control works, thanks again for the video I’ll keep you posted when the rest of the lines are replaced keep up with the videos they’re a big help
That’s great to hear Jay! I’m glad I could help you out.
Yeah! Let me know!🤙
I got my 96 f150 5.0 302 and it had been sitting in a garadge for at least 10 yrs and only has 130000 miles on it. It stood out to me because the body is in great shape no rust only minor paint scratches but after watching all these vids my engine and accessories look 10 times better than anything ive seen on here.
Nice! Good to hear man!
I modify 1lb. propane cylinders. Vent them, drill holes in the center and shrader valve holes. Braze or solder short lengths of brake line tubing.
Great video, wanted to add one note. Later in the OBS years ford changed the soup can vacuum canister to a plastic vacuum tank. I see them at junkyards alot. They are a direct drop in for the old rusty can, they look nicer and will never rust. Mine cost 2 dollars at the local jy. Goes great with new vacuum lines.
Thanks Joshua!🤙 I’ve heard that and now the coffee cans are hard to find. The link I have in the description is actually for the plastic vacuum reservoir.
my truck is a 1988 5.8L f250 and it came from the factory with the tall dual connection plastic vacuum canister. i guess it just depended on which factory line the truck was built and also what motor , trans was going in it
I'm new to you site and needed to know how the start from scratch with the vacuum line especially the ones that have emissions components... my sisters boyfriend ripped out some tunes and rerouted them to the wrong places & my car won't pass DEQ now. I have never had a problem with it passing DEQ since I bought it in 2012 (95 ford probe se)it drives but stalls and Jerks & shacks. The backfiring stopped when I put in a new mass air flow sensor. Is the a schematic a layperson can follow to replace the missing tubes?😢
Sometimes cars have a sticker diagram of the vacuum system under the hood. Otherwise, a Haynes manual might have a diagram. I would also internet search and see if one is out there.
As for installing them yourself, a vacuum diagram will show you what things get connected to the vacuum system. Ex. EGR to intake plenum. It won’t show you the exact route (kind of like an electrical diagram). You will just have to route them in whatever way works.
Hahaha, when I first got my 95 F150 i didn't know what the vacuum cansiters actually were and I just called them the tomato sauce cans
Hahahaha!!🤣 Close enough! It legit looks like a Bush’s Baked Beans can. Lol
I actually bought a kit that was specific to my 95. (Cant remember who made it) . The best thing about it was the lines were size and color specific. So for example, there were red lines. You found the red lines on the vehicle and replaced those, then the green so on and so on. You just had to cut to length. Very little waste.
That’s super cool! When I was looking into replacing the lines, I saw one guy who color coded all his lines. Makes me wonder now if he had the same kit.
I love watching your videos but have you ever consider making a video on how to clean your engine bay
Thanks man!🤙 Actually I haven’t but I know it could use a good cleaning. It usually gets cleaner with each part I replace. Lol
Steve im having a problem with my truck wich is while
Im driving sometimes it shuts off for like 10 minutes and then starts right up and then it will shut off or it will
Not its very random any idea of what this could be ? ( replaced fuel pump and fuel regulator ) 🙏
Have you read your codes yet?
How and when does it shut off? Does it shut off while driving (moving) or when you come to a stop?
My son bought an unfinished project truck that was a 95 f150 4x4. It came with an incomplete, brittle vacuum system. Where’s the best place to find a complete diagram as we are probably going to have to start from scratch?
Nice! That will be a fun project.
If you search vacuum diagrams online for your year, guys have put a few together or marked up pictures of their engine bays. I think at one time, there was a hood sticker with a diagram too.
Thank you 95 f150 extended cab XLT Eddie Bauer 59,878 original miles. OH my hometown is Westchester, PA
Did you ever find a better fitting hose size for the actuator line? I'm genuinely curious. I plan on getting my AC fixed on my 95 5.0 and that hose has a few pinholes in it
I didn’t. The vacuum lines I used are the smallest diameter from that company. You could possibly source a smaller diameter vacuum line from another manufacturer.
Electric tape it is!!😏😒
Hello there! Just ran into your video was wondering the same question this fellow asked before about the diameter of the line for the actuator thanks bud hope all is well great vid
Hello, what fittings did you use to connect the old lines to the new ones? Specifically the 5/32 lonss that you used 4mm line to replace?
Auto parts stores sell packs of generic vacuum line connectors. For some of the connections, that’s what I used.
Can’t get that vacuum canister anymore. The plastic newer ones are all gone from the junk yards too
Have you tried searching the part number in the description?
Hello!! I can't find the location of my map sensor in my truck it's a ford f150 5.0 96 eddi bauer help!!!! It's not where it's supposed to be
I’ll need to check in mine. I haven’t replaced it.
Other thought, doesn’t the MAF sensor replace the MAP sensor?
I can’t find that vacuum canister ANYWHERE. Any help greatly appreciated?!
From what viewers have been telling me, they are near impossible to find. I recommend finding an equivalent canister from a new Ford. One of my watches recommends this part:
Ford E8TE-9E453-ba
Do you know where I can find a diagram? I have a 95 so it’s MAF, but all the diagrams I see have map sensors.
I don’t have a diagram. The best I have is this video. I may film a diagram video for everyone to reference though.
For anyone else that runs into the cracking and crumbling line on the max A/C toggle, the vacuum line that you want is 3mm. It will be the perfect size to slip onto the actuator AND if you cut back the sleeve to get access to non crumbled line, it slips over without needing the electrical tape. Just letting anyone know that finds this
Good tip! Thanks Stevie!
I had a real hard time hearing you this time normally I don't have a problem hearing you.
Must have been because I was out in the street.
This amount work for F250 5.8L?? Trying to figurte out what i need and how much
The amount of work should be very similar. If you want to play it safe, you can always order a little extra vac line.
The last time I eat pinto beans I got a case of the shits
Lololololol
Man this video came in clutch. Have had my 92 F150 5.0 for about 2-3 months now and recently resealed the top end (expect for head gaskets) and all those form fitted vacuum lines broke just from the desert heat and with this knowledge I play on trying to hide everything a lot more for a cleaner engine bay.
Glad to hear it man! It’s definitely worth hiding the vacuum lines since they don’t look great.
Where did you get the coffee vacuum can from?😅 I been looking but can’t fine it.
I bought it on Amazon. However, they have since discontinued the coffee can.
Hey man the vaccum line at 5:18 with the blue line where does it go cause mine vroke i cant seem to find it i know there 2 the one that goes to the litle vacum box but the second one i cant find it
Good question Miguel! That vac line may connect go into the wiring harness like the white one that fees the blend door actuator.
That is a purge valve solenoid that comes off the charcoal canister and then goes into the tb
Yes
Hey buddy is me again my 95 does not have that canister it has a different set up is there anywere were i can send you pictures
You sure can Juan!👇
sxtreacy@gmail.com
Than can has nothing to do with the hvac control strictly for EGR system
Hard to say. It’s for “additional vacuum”.
Did the lines collapse at all? I’m about to use the website instead of local parts store.
Nope! Still working like a charm!
hello the part where you use the silicon tube for the vaccume ac, was that a 4mm? I am gonna purchase this item and do the trick you show to fix my ac that stuck on Defrost. I wanna make sure I purchase the right measurement for the 3.7 vacuum tube and do the electrical tape trick.
Yes, I believe that was a piece of 4mm I had lying around.
@@TheMinuteMasters ok, thank you for taking the time for letting me know sir.
I am trying to find a vacuum canister can you help me 88 f150
They are becoming harder to fine. I used to have a link in the description but it stopped working. I have a new link in the description that takes you to a different vacuum reservoir with that apparently works.
Man, this video would've saved me hours when I had to replace all the lines a previous owner removed with just my hood sticker as a reference... Best vac line video out there.
Yeah vacuum lines can be super confusing and the hood sticker is only so good.
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
@@TheMinuteMasters love your videos, they've saved me many times!
@@reidjohnston5057 I’m glad to hear it! I’ll keep them coming for ya!🤙
What size hose did you have to use for the blend door actuator?
I can’t remember off hand, but it was either 4 mm or 5 mm.
Great video! Do you know where that one line connected to the T fitting on the passenger side goes to? All 3 are black and the other two seem to go to the blower motor and through the firewall. The 3rd (that looks like you routed up and over the engine) seems to be hiding on my truck
Thanks man! It seems like the one you need is the red plastic Vacuum Wine. That connects into areas. One end goes to the vacuum canister/coffee can and the other is routed to the other side of the engine to the vacuum tree.
Where did you get the Vacuum canister?? I cant find one !!
From what I’m hearing, they are near impossible to find.
Just spent $300 for engine diagnostics and labor, mechanics accurately determined I needed to replace main vacuum harness on my 2001 Ford F-150 4.2 six cylinder. Engine was running with a rough idle, shutting down and/or stalling at traffic lights. OBD scanners I used at auto parts stores was giving conflicting readouts, saying lean idle and misfiring spark plugs but that basically was due to existing vacuum leaks. I first replaced IAC sensor and ignition coil pack before I took it to the shop. Probably could have avoided that but those are fairly easy to R&R.
Truck runs like new after the shop work was completed. Diagnostic from an experienced mechanic and an established repair shop was showing scanner codes PO171, PO174. That will indicate excessive air from a vacuum leak. So IMHO it sometimes will be the best choice to take it to a experienced shop rather than throwing money at replacement parts based soley on scanner codes.
Great to hear Nathan! Sometimes it is work going with an experienced mechanic. I don’t know the 97 and forward F150s. But OBD2 is a much better diagnostics system. It also helps mechanics can spend unlimited time finding an issue where is shade tree mechanics only have a few minutes here and there to spare.
assuming all the lines on the site you linked are measured in OD?
That’s a good question. I never bothered the check. Could be ID
Where can I order the coffee can? As I has been looking for it on inerternet
They are very hard to find now. My suggestion is to find a newer equivalent vacuum reservoir.
Anyway I could get a step by step from EGR solenoid to intake to egr valve to canister diagram or video from anyone here. Replaced all new egr stuff and get the the vaccum right
Are you missing a step from the video?
@@TheMinuteMasters I figured it out! Love your videos! Thanks for all the help!
Great video. Your vehicle is about the same as mine. Do you know where the MAP is located?
Thanks man!🤙 So my truck has MAF which if I understand this correctly, replaced the MAP system.
@@TheMinuteMasters
1990 F150 straight 6. Are all my vac lines the same hose size? Can I just buy a bunch of hose and replace line by line so I know where they all go?
Typically four or 5 mm covers a lot of the bases. If you’re unsure, you can always buy 10 feet of each size. I just see how far you get.
@@TheMinuteMasters Where can I buy the coffee cans?
@@mitchellscottmoreau I used to have a link for h to me but they must have sold out. In the video description I have a part number for the “upgraded” vacuum reservoir.
What is next to the coffee can? Mine is torn up and would like to replace it. There are two hoses connected to where the drive belts are, they lead next to the coffee can and they have some odd attachments on them. I think they are both filters of some sort?
The other can next to the coffee can is the filter for the smog system. A lot of guys delete it along with the smog pump. I will keep mine until is fails.
Hey From south jersey area, I just bought a 92 bronco from my neighbor, been sitting for ten years. Got it home put new gas and battery in it and started right up. But it's idling at like 2500 3000 rpm. I noticed the charcoal canister just sitting under the hood. Haven't had much time to look at it I'm hoping that is just the problem. Lol well see
So a couple of things can cause high idle. I would make sure all the vacuum lines or good, the intake is sealed, and all the sensors related to the intake are working (use a code reader for this).
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the advice I will definitely check all those things
Threw the code reader on , it was the tps sensor I switched it out and it runs great now thanks
Quick question at the end you said you bought an extra 5 feet of 5 mm hose but description says 6mm should I grab the 5ft of 5mm or 5ft more of 6mm???? Thank you!
I just looked at my invoices. I ordered 4mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm. A month later I order more 4 mm.
@@TheMinuteMasters for sure thank you brother!
Hey man, looks like that original reservoir is no where to be found now, but luckily a friend of mine at Ford knew the superseded part number they upgraded it to. I made a video about it, and it works very well and it’s a direct fit!
Good to hear! I’ll watch your video. Do you have a part number or link to where you found it?
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah it’s in my video and in the description :)
@@obsnation Sweet! Thanks man!🤙
Hey bro love your channel. I have a 1995 F150 myself and have done a lot of work on it. I’m in Jersey and I see you in Philly. Love for you to check out my truck.
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it.
Dude would have been cool to meet up but I moved out of state the end of 2020.
I’ll tell you what bro. I’ll do a walk around video of my truck and explain what I did and what else I plan to do and post it on RUclips. I’ll post the link
@@JMDANK-w4s Sounds good man!🤙
Can you show me where the smog pump converter goes on a 1991 f-150 5.0 ????
Smog pump converter?
@@TheMinuteMasters to me it almost looks like a tree except for it's got hoses it's not small vacuum lines it does have two things on it that does have vacuum lines though but the rest of it is big hoses.
@@TheMinuteMasters I was told it was a smog pump converter or a valve pressure air I'm a 65 year old woman I don't know what these things are called but I'm doing my own work on my truck
Can someone help me with the line right next to the oil cap?
Are you referring to the rubber hose that connects to the oil cap or one that’s close by?
Do you ever notice rainwater entering the engine compartment on both sides of the truck? On the right flooding the actuator valve for the defrost and gets the whole heater blower wet, and on the left side it just runs down the firewall straight onto the computer? Seems like that little guard they have on the firewall is short on both ends and it just lets rainwater pour straight down your firewall.
That’s a good question. I’ve never observed that but I’ll have to check now.
Could you please make a video of where every vacuum line goes. My truck every line is gone
Do you need more detail than this video?
@@TheMinuteMasters a little bit. I can't find any diagrams for the vacuum system
thank you for this. My vacuum lines are brittle and old on my 1994 bronco.
No problem Hector!🤙 Yeah mine too. Mostly near the edges of the engine bay.
That little white hose is the AC vacuum line and becomes brittle from the UV rays, common problem.
Are these brand vacuum lines still doing good?
So far so good!
Great video. I just bought a 96 F350 and used some of the info in your video during my walk around inspection of the truck. I'll be doing these repairs after the truck gets delivered.
Thanks man!🤙 Nice! That’s the best way to do an inspection.
Anyone know where I can get a vacuum canister that will fit into a Ford F 150. I can't find one anywhere. The links provided does not have it available. Thanks,
So the feedback I’m getting is the coffee can type has been discontinued. The link the description was another vacuum reservoir that would work. Maybe that one has been discontinued as well.
@@TheMinuteMasters yes, it was also not available.
@@gsschneck Yeah we may need to find another alternative.
need help. I think my evap canister mess up. I can't pump gas in my truck. the pump just doesn't go. I think it's cause the vapors. gonna replace it and see what happens. would that be the trick?
So a couple of things can cause this issue. Gas caps are supposedly mean to vent a little. So new gas caps can help. Installed in the top of each tank is a vent valve that can potentially go bad. The last part that can get clogged is the charcoal canister in the engine bay just below the battery tray. The vent valve on the tanks connects to the charcoal canister/box. Replacing any of those parts could be the fix for you.
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you so much. I ended up replacing the evap canister and my truck runs alot better. the one I had was clogged. I tested. used take off rough at first. it's manual. now it takes off smoother and I feel like it has more power. I was able to pump gas today normally too. so it fixed ot
@@rromero1091 No problem man! Glad the new Evap canister worked for you.
Hey, I. warm my pinto beans that way ! Commom man ! LOL !!
😂😂😂
What part of N.E. Philly? Im Guilford st. Lincoln high. All the houses look the same.
So I grew up just outside NE Philly and later moved to Roxborough which is where I filmed this video. I moved to Iowa last year. So I’m not I’m the area anymore.
@@TheMinuteMasters I don't blame you as Philly is falling apart as I moved 16yrs and seen it coming. Roxborough nice been there plenty of times. Same with Manayunk. But love st Petersburg FL better. Stay warm brother.
@@allendaleguitars.stpetersb4528 Yeah I can argue with St. Petersburg either! Lol
hey guys just boguht a 95 f150, but i dont have that cnaister thats right next to the vacume canister. Its right in front of it, witht hat big tube coming out the center. What is that?
That is part of the smog pump. You can try to replace it but it seems like most guys delete them.
@@TheMinuteMasters ah great thanks
@@TheMinuteMasters btw love your videos they re so helpful
All my vaccum lines and electrical were burnt this is alot of help thanks
No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
Wish i can take off the stupid emissions but i live in California
That sucks!
Thanks man I had redone most of mine and the line that go to that blend door I had to put tape there like you did to
No problem man!🤙 Yeah I don’t know why Ford made that blend door metal vacuum lime so small or didn’t add a barb to it.
thanks for this. is it the same for a 5.8?
also, a few of my fittings have the original tubing stuck in there -- would Dorman 47432 be the right part to replace them?
You were a saint for filming all of this. Thank you. And thank you for the links
What’s that box under the first ac line you changed
If you are referring to the box down below the battery, that’s the charcoal box used to filter the vent from the fuel tank.
The box up near the firewall next to the passenger side fender is the fan blower box.
my 1992 f150 5.0 has a little bit of a fast idle and hard shifting in transmission. it’s cat/emissions deleted what do you think it could be? i replaced throttle position sensor it helped a little but could it be the map sensor? it also has some vacuum lines and coffee can disconnected.
I would get a code reader and read your codes first. That could help you out a lot.
Getting all the vacuums lines replaced/reconnected would help too.
@@TheMinuteMasters ok thanks. i do have a code reader! i’ll try it out
@@TheMinuteMasters i fixed it lol it was the map sensor. it still shifts hard when i go full throttle but that’s e40d stuff lol. also it has a brand new transmission from jasper
@@dawson_5.0 nice!
Yup, rebuilt transmissions typically get shift kits that firm up the shifting.
Heyy are you located in philly?
I was. I lived in Roxborough off Henry Ave. I moved to Des Moines, Iowa.
Thx for your video and thorough guidance I have been a subcriber of yours. I have the same problem with that white vacuum line at 5:52 I have a 1990 Ford F150 4x4 5.0 liter. You said you cut an inch of black electrical tape so it could hold better. Has it been holding up or has it fallen apart? Or did you come up with a better idea? Thanks your a life saver.
No problem man!🤙 I’m glad I can help ya out. Nice! So far that fix with the electrician tape has been working great! Honestly, if you never plan on taking the vacuum system apart again, you could add glue to the outside of the white vacuum line. Then glue the two pieces together. Otherwise, my fix has been going strong for over a month now. You are most welcome man! Thanks for subscribing and watching!
What's the name of the glue I should use to make the 2 pieces of vacuum hose stick together? Thanks for responding so quick.
@@ThaHandyman1212 I think regular Elmers glue will do the trick. Any multi purpose glue. You mostly need to to hold a tiny bit.
No problem man!🤙
I have acceleration hesitation at specific speeds
30mph 40mph 50mph
What’s the deal?
Those mph changes sound like gear changes in the transmission. What does your transmission fluid look like? Not seeing your transmission is the issue because hesitation can also be caused by an engine. That’s in need of a tuneup.
@@TheMinuteMasters fluid looks good
It happens when it’s in second gear during acceleration before shifting to third. Not serious but feels like something is holding the engine back. No check engine lights either
@@joshbrown2501 did you fix it? I have the same problem
Looks like the idle air control on the throttle body was causing my issues
I NEED YOUR HELP 😂 so at 10:33. that yellow vacuum line there. what's that for. I just found mine cut off. I'm trying to find where it's going. is it for the EGR valve??? I know that one is green then turns yellow. but I have it hooked up to another green spot vacuum hose that was cut in the same module.
That yellow one routes the the thermactor valve on the back side of the engine. I believe a green vac line runs to the thermactor valve as well.
Pure gold info here. I broke a few testing, my egr valve and sensor.
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it.
I have a 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis. It has a home made vacuum canister on it, that I think is leaking. Where can you get a NEW vacuum canister from ? Can you get the canister and all the vacuum lines in a kit ?
I would see if an auto parts store carries a new one. Otherwise, you can try eBay or Rock Auto.
I have an 89 250 van with the 5.0 and working on it is so nice with the doghouse. So much access to the back
Nice! I learned to drive on a 96 e250 and being able to remove the doghouse was awesome!
Found that you can use a Plastic version of the Vacuum Reservoir. Part # 4C3Z-9E453-AA I have read in several places that it does work and the bolt holes line up.
Nice! 🤙 Good research. Plus the plastic won’t rust like the soup can will.
This is what I did on a 93 4.9 300 using one from a 2006 I believe, didnt pay attention to exact year. Has a 3rd mount bolt but it lines up with existing holes in fender liner.
i built a smoke machine to find the vacuum leaks in my 1988 5.8L f250. i found leaks i didnt know i had and repaired them all. there was one leak i couldnt figure out how to fix. it was leaking out of the bottom where the throttle position sensor was on the throttle body. while i was replacing the thermostat i figured out how to seal that throttle body leak at the TPS.. i took the throttle body off and removed the TPS. i sprayed the cavity out with carb cleaner. then used q-tips to wipe it out. then i cut the end off of a q-tip and dabbed RTV around the bearing and the case of the throttle body and around the rod and bearing. i put enought to the outer and inner races of the bearing, then took other q-tips ( with the cotton on it ) and wiped around the shaft and outer race to where there was enough left to fill in around the outer race of bearing and the throttle body case and the rod and inner race of the bearing and let it set up over nite. it sealed that leak up just fine. that little whistle was gone and the iac didnt open and close so much out of the normal function. for faster results you can use the 90 minute RTV and let it set up for 2 or 3 hours then reassemble . hope this helps anyone trying to find that one vacuum leak thats hiding from you. sorry this was so long
Hey this was great info! I think vacuum leaks are a huge cause for erratic idle in these old trucks and they are difficult to fix if you don’t have a smoke machine.
I can’t find that stupid freaking can anywhere lol
So the coffee can has been discontinued from what I’ve see. Here is a link to an alternate Ford reservoir that I’m told work really well. 👇
amzn.to/3lh0SzP
@@TheMinuteMasters sweet thanks
I'm having trouble finding a vacuum canister for my 1995 Ford F150 5.0. any suggestions
These vacuum reservoirs are hard to find. Are used to have a link in the description but those reservoirs have since been all bought. I recommend trying to find a reservoir with and inlet and outlet.
The last thing that I cleaned out was the vapor line from the fuel tank to the evaporation canister/charcoal canister. Mine was completely clogged and would not allow the vapor to be caught and it built pressure up in my fuel tank, not good. You might check yours and replace the rubber lines and blow out the steel lines.
I’ll have to check that. Never really knew it could clog.
@@TheMinuteMasters The steel lines rust on the inside from atmosphere moisture. Gasoline does absorb moisture just as the steel of the fuel tank. That is how they rust inside.
@@TheMinuteMasters You might only have one tank and it might be plastic but still there is always moisture.
@@j.r.thompson5950 Gotcha. That makes sense.
@@j.r.thompson5950 That is definitely true.
Jeremy
hello question on the list you have put down 4mm BUT you keep saying 5mm? I am about to make an order but want to make sure, thank you for your time and good videos..
So the description has the correct lengths and sizes that you need to order. Someone asked me the same question and I verified the info in the description.
I was looking all over for the reason my ac pretty much stops when I hard accelerate it's been driving me nuts thank you
Yup! It’s an easy fix!
i am ready to install the Brand New rebuild on the 302 1995 Bronco i did ,,, been a long hard job getting all the new parts together and the Machine shops very hard to deal with these days, they closed most of them in San Diego,,, long waits here, use to be 3 days to do a valve job, now 2 months if your very lucky... just sad.. cam took forever to get.. crank/rods/one head/ oil pan new /3 piece timing chain set/ roller cam and lifters new/ oil pump and pistons .030 new bore in a std block/ one piece rear main seal... installing new auto trans converter seal and changing out the oil and trans filter as well,,, now when i removed the 5.0L engine the vacuum lines just broke off under the coil and i am so sad that happen... any way thank for posting the video...
Nice! I can’t wait to rebuild mine. I hope machine shops are more readily available in my state. Anyhow, you should have one fast truck once your engine is installed.
You’re welcome man!🤙
Man, I have repaired the A/C vacuum line and immediately my truck stopped shuddering at high speeds and my check engine light (P0402 EGR code) went away immediately without having to disconnect the battery or clear the code.
Since then (just a week or so ago), I'm again having the A/C switch to defrost under load, the CEL is back on with the same code. So today I replaced my vacuum check valve and for about 10 miles I had zero problems with the A/C switching to defrost on me. I drove it around 10 miles and it sure enough started switching again on me. The CEL is not back on yet, but I fully expect it to.
The one thing that has been consistent since my first repair of the white line is that it no longer shudders at all. The truck runs fine, but I know I have the vacuum issue somewhere, I just can't figure out where!
That sucks you’ve been chasing this a while but you definitely have it narrow down to the vacuum system. At this point it’s not a bad idea to replace all the vacuum lines just to be on the safe side.
George if you are in ohilly I would like to connect with you. I have a 95 150 that I am trying to repair. Please let me know your availability. Thanks.
I’m no longer in Philly. I moved to Iowa. Otherwise, I’d be down to help ya out.
++👍 on using silicon lines. my first experience w. vacuum lines was on old 240D-later on 6.5 TD. Nylon “emissions lines” do not hold up. Neither do chinese silicon lines--due to thin sidewalls. Essentially 3mm sidewalls work well...reinforced silicon even better😉
Thanks man!🤙 I’m glad you approve. I remember when I first research the subject, a lot of people talked about cheap silicone vacuum lines collapsing. I knew I didn’t want that to happen.
I used 3 mm gas line since no vacuum lines available. It worked well
I'm searching all over to find out what the two electrical components on the top driver side are that you didn't replace and where those lines go. If anyone knows I'd appreciate the enlightenment.
Those are called the TAB and TAD and they are emissions related hoses that go to the backing system behind the engine. Now one of those hoses does go to the EGR valve though.
ive got one betyer then that,take metal brake line and bend it to the exact shape you want,cut it to length.paint it.slide it inside the rubber boot ends,you are done with your vaccum likes forever,they will never crack or lrak again,and cannot colapse.
I never thought about that, but that’s an excellent idea!
Can you give me a list of what I need
You’ll need:
- vacuum reservoir/coffee can
- AC valve
- 20 feet of 4mm vacuum line
- 3 feet of 6mm vacuum line
- zip/cable ties
You’ll need more 4mm vacuum line if you want to replace the TAB emissions vacuum lines. Another 2 feet should do the trick. Links for all of those items are in the description.🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters you do a great job on explaining what’s got to be done on the F150 I just bought mine a few months ago and I appreciate your work and putting it on video. Thank you. Check out my build I’m working on a 92 camaro complete rebuild. Subscribe if you want.
@@vandettabuilds6641 Thanks man!🤙 I remember starting out and not having a lot of resources other than a Haynes manual. So I figured, I would help everyone out. Nice! I’ll definitely check your project out!
What size did you use for map sensor
Or your mass air
I don’t have any vacuum lines going to the mass air flow sensor.
Great video didn't know what that can was till now lol new obs owner
Thanks man!🤙 Trust me, I didn’t know when I was new to OBS fords.
Same here lol
I just bought an 95 Eddie Bauer Edition F-150 Supercab that the previous owner removed the vacuum lines. He said it is causing a hesitation sometimes in the throttle. So I will look into replacing all those lines ASAP. I need the truck reliable for longer distance driving. I have not had a chance to drive very far with yet to see what other issues will pop up. Had a new PA Inspection on it when I bought so maybe all is good.
Nice! EBs are sweet broncos! Weird. I bet the throttle hesitation was from a vacuum leak. Anyhow, you’ll definitely want to get them replaced if you want a reliable DD. Good luck man!🤙
I thought that was the purge valve solenoid? Did you say it was a idle position sensor?
Without re-watching the video I think you’re correct, it’s the purge valve solenoid. I don’t think I called it the IAC valve.
Hey i just found a correct size Vacuum hose that is tight in those 1/8'' plastic lines it is a 7/64'' hose fits tight...
Nice! Thanks for sharing John!🤙 7/64 must be the smallest vacuum line available.
Amazing Video! I'm gonna do this today or tomorrow to my 1988 f150 302 (automatic trans 2WD). One question for you, @ 5:19 there's that plastic check valve, my check valve only has in and out, yours has 3 hoses (one extra going down towards the transmission it looks like). Is your truck a manual or 4WD? Not sure if I'm missing a line or not. When I look on Ebay for a replacement check valve it says the one you have is the correct valve, but I'm not sure if it's taking everything into account (trans/AC/4WD or 2WD). If you remember where that line goes to, I could always cross ref too. Thanks again for the vid! Cheers!
Thanks Christopher!🤙 I appreciate it!
So the line that goes off the bottom of that T hooks to a sealed plastic piece that attaches to the side of the AC evaporator box. If you watch my video on how to insulate that box you’ll have a better idea of where it connects to. My truck is 2wd/AC/no cruise/MAF.
already did my lines but now i want to replace the coffee can... damn thing is like 55$ though
I know! It’s a lot for something so simple but it’s worth replacing if your original is going bad.
Anyone know how much of each hose I need to replace my whole system? Sorry if he says somewhere in the video I haven’t finished watching it yet
Gotcha covered🤙
I bought
1 foot of 10 mm
1 foot of 8 mm
5 feet of 6 mm
15 feet of 4mm
If I remember correctly, I ran out of a particular size. It might have been 4mm. I think I ended up buying another 5 feet more of it.
Same truck completely rebuilt my motor bored 30 over big cam dual exhaust deleted all that vacuum crap and ran my own and works like a charm got great heat breaks work fine and I got room for stuff with that vacuum canister gone
Nice! I’m sure once you deleted most of the vacuum lines, you didn’t need the vacuum canister. Have you dynoed the truck since finishing it?
0:32-0:40 you called the part a "vacuum actuated door" is That what it is actually called cause in the winter to get heat im using zip ties. To hold t down for heat and on summer no zip to get
A/C so lol i'm on the. Hunt for a replacement but so I've been to AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts both didn't know what it was called and couldn't find it SO IF ANYONE. KNOWS THE NAME. OF THIS PART PLEASE LMK
It’s called a vacuum blend door actuator. I just googled one and O’Reilly’s had one. 🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters lol wow your awesome like no joke I went to 3 DIFFERENT A.Z. & 5 A.A.P. and just for shots. And. Giggles a walmart. All of which had no idea what it was called so they couldn't look it up for a. Price checklist seriously I miss the days when they had Associates with some hardcore experience for whatever department they were hired for
@@ericdavies1879 You’re welcome Eric! 🤙 Half the battle of finding parts is knowing the name. I’m glad I could help you out.
That surprises me, that you are in business for yourself and you don't have a junk screw, bolt, nut can..
It’s funny you should say that. I’m the guy who throws unlabeled or unorganized hardware away. Typically it sits too long and puts a strain on inventory. Granted, it does come in handy every once in a while.