BEST DIY! / How to Make a Fuel Pump Access Hatch | 1995 Ford F150
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- Опубликовано: 5 апр 2015
- The fuel pump died in the front tank on my 1995 Ford F-150. The tank was full of fuel and I didn't want to drop the tank. So I cut a whole in the bed of my pickup truck. This way I could have a trap door to access my fuel pump whenever I wanted say for a fuel pump upgrade. Although my pickup truck is a Ford, this can be done with any brand of pickup truck.
To do this, look under your truck and try to find the location of the fuel pump. Try to match this location with a location in the bed. I counted the ridges in the bed. I also measured from the back of the bed wall to the center of the pump.
Then I slipped a piece of drywall (you can use wood) between the pump and underside of the bed. This prevents the angle grinder from cutting your harness or fuel hoses. It also doesn’t allow any sparks to touch the pump or tank.
Cut the hole to the size you want and save the cut out piece for your hatch. Buy a couple of small hinges and plank steel plates (for jam stops). Screw the hatch to the hinges and then to the bed. Use the steel plates as stops to prevent the hatch from swinging down through the opening.
#fuelpump #obsford #truck
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The project is my 1995 Ford F150 XL 2wd 8 foot bed.
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Развлечения
I also think this is the ONLY video on RUclips that shows an actual door and actual year truck being worked on ... All the others that I came across were newer or different makes or models . Thanks again minuteman !!!!
Thanks for the GREAT video. I'm doing mine next week and you really gave a fantastic idea!!! 1994 F150. My Dads' old truck w/182,000> miles.
Kip Black You're welcome! Glad you liked it! Nice! Keep that old girl running!
Like the idea save a lot of labor and headaches👍👌
a dawg duverna Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Thanks for posting. I work in the rust belt, so "simply removing the bed" is not an option as others working in this area know haha. I wish it were that simple to remove rusty anything from a 23 year old vehicle out here.
Your welcome! Yeah those bed bolts rust so badly and so do the tank straps.
Great video! After having to deal with my fuel sending unit more than I care for also, was looking at the same idea you have or just making a sending unit trap door also versus constantly dropping out tank for minor issues/checks. Your method was exactly what I was looking do, it was nice to see someone have the same idea and put in action (and on video).
Thanks Chad! I appreciate it! I also dropped my tanks one too many times and opted for this mod. I have an updated video for this with, I think, a better hatch design.
Like video and replacing my fuel pump with trap door thanks for thinking out side the box!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! It’s one of the best mods I ever did early on.
Great Idea! I have to replace the front and rear tank pumps on my 93 F-150.
Thanks man!🤙 It definitely speeds up the process!
I did this in 2010 to my 95 f350 and tac welded little hinges and support bars and drilled a half inch hole in the lid to install a key lock and wrapped 1/2 in window gasket to get rid of the rattling from the vibration. Worked great.
Nice! You definitely did a more premium job than me.
Thanks for watching man!🤙
why the lock? Just to keep it closed and no "flapping"? Couldn't you just put a self tapping screw or two in the side opposite the hinges for same purpose?
What good videos thanks for sharing with us I have a Ford88
Luis Espinosa Thanks! I’m glad you enjoy them! Nice!👍
Great video man thanks
Thanks man! 🤙 I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
Buddy I'm doing that, I have a 95 F-150 rear tank to do a fuel pump on, & I really don't want to go through all that trouble. I also have a hitch that looks like it would be a pain to wiggle the tank out, so out comes the grinding wheel. Awsome video Dude …. Thanks !
TheBluetoob Thanks!! I’m glad you liked it! It definitely made life easier for me! 👍
Great job. Did this with an older "96 F150 with dual tanks. Don't understand the neg comments, if you don't like the concept don't do it. Although I wouldn't do this on a newer truck in pristine condition,If you live in the salt belt, don't have a lift, and have an older truck that's just a work truck anyway, and have dropped tanks and in the process snapped of rusty bolts,spilled gas all over yourself, banged your head multiple times on the frame, this can be a great solution.I've had several dual tank fords and had to replace pumps on every one of them. Got one going bad on my 2002 work truck and if everything lines up right it's the way I'll be doing it(I've got a bed liner too.). When I did it before I made an oversize hatch that matched the bed and sealed and pop riveted it, fingers crossed I wouldn't have to do it again.
jeffrey allen I agree! I never understood the negativity. I wouldn’t do this on a pristine truck either. However, I’d hope a pristine truck wouldn’t need a new fuel pump. Sounds like you have dropped the fuel tanks before. Lol I’ve dropped both and I know exactly what you mean. It’s a dirty and sometimes injurious job.
A little paint and bedliner and these hatches will survive the salt.🤙
Thanks for watching man!
Every bad submersible fuel pump I've changed always had a full tank of gas.. go figure lol
U Tuber I know right! It’s such a pain!
This is perfect . This video actually showed perfect measurements and shows what you'll actually come across in reality . Not in some shop where they have 10 people behind the scenes cleaning and doing the grunt work making it look like you'll never get dirty . Thanks for the video and I loved the yellow pain complimenting the purple comment . Made me laugh . Thanks again !!!
+william spyrison Yes, I do all of my own work. This way the average DIYer will get a clear idea of what it takes to complete these projects. Thanks again! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching!
The Minute Masters .. how would you drain the tank? is there a plug?
I like the idea but I just finished replacing my fuel pump before seeing this video. I sled the bed over and didn’t have to remove it all the way. Much better than dropping the tank in my opinion.
RC1 Hobbies Thanks! Yeah I would have slid the bed back too but I didn’t have enough time to do it.
Great idea! I will try this on mine... did you have 2x4s on each side to hold them up?
MIKE MIKE Thanks! I used two pieces of galvanized 20 gauge steel plates to hold it up. I think they were actually flat electric plates.
Great video - gonna do exactly this to replace the fuel pump on my 1999 F-150.
xzqzq Glad you liked! Thanks for watching!
Looks good. I drove a 74 courier for years that already had a small hatch. Cutting a hatch seemed like a logical step after that.
James Payne Really? Was the hatch factory? Yeah a hatch makes so much sense.
The Minute Masters hatch was factory.
James Payne That’s a cool feature. All automotive manufacturers need to add hatches to access the fuel pumps.
I did something very similar on my 2000 F150. However, I did it with my bed off (mainly because I needed to do some extensive body work to my bed, rust issues in Iowa are horrid). Anyways, here is what I did...........Measured and cut the hole (mine was circular) ground down the edges to bare metal, then I went out to the salvage yard found a donor truck and cut a similar hole, except I added an inch in diameter. Then I went to the parts store and got a package of rubber washers, self locking bolts and a gasket maker. I tapped holes every two inches around in both the bed and the "cap" painted it then applied the liquid gasket to the bed, placed the cap on and then used the rubber washers on underside and tightened down the self locking bolts and regular washers. It's been 3 years and I have no hints of rust, and no water gets through into the bed beneath the liner. The easy access door came in handy 5 months ago when I had to replace the pump, and all I had to do was replace the gasket. I hope you have no rust issues with your method, you may want to check it, water has a tendency to get up under those damn liners and it just sits there rusting out your bed.
Tom S I really like your method. The hatch really can't support weight, but since my tool box sits over it that's not a problem. However if I do this again with the rear tank, I'll definitely go with your idea. I did pull the liner off recently and my bed is a lot more rusted than before. Luckily nothing related to my fuel pump hatch rusted. Just the lower bed portion in the corners where the water pools. When I get the necessary change I'll either do a roll on bed liner or Linex. Thanks for telling me your idea though and thanks for watching!
Suppose people like to see someone actually cut the hole instead of not seeing somebody cut the hole that's the question most people have dude damn man we know how to hook it up
So what do you need to know? What tool I used?
One spark and Boom!!
That’s what I put a piece of drywall between the tank and my cutting wheel.
thank you for sharing you video. i have a fuel line leak at my fuel pump on my 2007 f 150. i will cut an access panel just like yours.
No problem man! 🤙 You’ll get that fixed very quickly with the access hatch.
Yep gonna do this.....
Deepblu dude Best mod ever! Enjoy man!
Good idea, but I have a suggestion .. why not just remove the 6 T50 torx bolts from the top side of the bed, and slide the bed back a couple of feet instead of cutting up the bed? You will then be staring straight down at the fuel pump and you don't have to remove the tank.
Hugh Breese I did think about it but since putting this hatch in. I’ve had to access the fuel pump. I can get to it much faster pulling the bed liner up and opening the hatch. If this was a one pump change/service. Pulling the bed back would be faster for sure.
Got a Chevy s 10 gonna do the same. My mechanic wanted to charge close to 700 to fix it!
Janie Baker I know right! It’s crazy! This saved me so much money and I’m glad it does for all of you too!
Janie Baker Not anymore your mechanic can find his $700 somewhere else
My Honda comes with a access panel installed. The fuel pump I replaced at 150,000 just to be on the safe side. The same goes for the water pump at 180,000 and the compressor; both are still working perfectly. Honda all the way.......
terry wayne Hamilton Nice! Leave it to Honda to think of the mechanics and DIY guys while engineering their cars!👍
The Minute Masters :::: Gd vid. Would be way too simple for manufacturers to put access ports on all vehicles for things like this BUT we know why they don't. ...a dealer probly charge $1,000 parts n labor for this job. Reason I'm commenting is I have seen many people post on vehicle repair vids that they replaced things like fuel n water pumps and many other items "just because". It's their rides so they can do whatever they please but I have owned over 250 vehicles since 1972, still got first one, a 66 Mustang, and I have NEVER replaced a major part that wasn't causin a problem as "preventive maintenance". In several million miles of driving in many countries I have been stranded very few times cept for flat tires. If it ain't broke don't fix it is not just a figure of speach. Party on.....
AcceleratorMagazine You are exactly right! They get more money for repairs and access ports cost money to install.
I know what you mean! I don’t have the budget to replace things “just because”. Especially if they are difficult and expensive repairs. Same here I’ve only been stranded due to a flat and not having a good spare! Even when my transmission started having problems, I still made it home!
Anyhow, thanks for watching man! Plenty more fixes for this truck coming! Mostly body and esthetic work at this point. After that, it’s horse power and suspension upgrades.👍
The Minute Masters :::: Thanx for readin n replying to a comment....that's rare. We own a car trader magazine in Chattanooga, the Accelerator Magazine. You can look at our FB page, which I haven't updated in LONG time or look at issues at Acceleratormag.com. If u click on Shanna's butt in that little round pic standin next to my old 64 Pro Street Corvette u can see a few poorly shot vids on my channel. My addiction is anything that rolls, floats or flies. We have several old Mustangs, Corvettes, 1 Prowler, some Harleys n a limo to haul 6yr old granddaughter around so I have probly spent half a million dollars on upkeep n repairs over the years. Have only bought one new vehicle, an 06 Grand Cherokee, and it was a lemon. Like expensive, and even a few exotics, but hate that depreciation hit. We ain't rick enuff to need ne tax loss write-offs. Ain't braggin, e started out what used to be called "dirt poor" and have come a long way from our roots. Wife runs magazine while I do law enforcement, military contractin n guardin the rich n famous. But I'm 64 n havin major back surgery next month so may not need any of the toys after that. If I don't make it wife will hav hell of a yard sale of all my junk. Glad to see young dude workin on his own ride and improvising. Our son Zane is on first episode of "Texas Metal" on Velocity Channel paintin a stretched Kodiac dually. Thanks again n sorry for long ass reply, PTSD kickin in, been up couple days. Gd luck with ur channel. rick. L8r
Great video! Can you reach the filler tube from that panel?
Tom Mills Thanks! No the filler tube is farther back. If I remember you can access the filler tube from under the bed.
I am trying to replace my fuel lines from my to fuel pump reservoir tank selector to my fuel rails on the engine. It looks like it uses push lock connectors from the Fuel Rail to a test point box that has four connections. The existing fuel line from the fuel rail to the test point box is about 16 inches. The existing fuel line seems to have an inner core line about 1/8 inch and a outer core line protecting it. This line is discontinue from ford. But it seems to be more heavy because it is near the engine. Can anyone tell me what size and type of fuel line I should use to replace this section? I hate to bypass it because it might affect the pressure in the fuel line. I am assuming this is a test point box it has four connections on it. One input from the fuel filter to an output that connects to the fuel rail input , One input from the fuel rail return to output to the fuel pump reservoir tank selector value. Note: I am assuming that is a test point box. If anyone has had experience with this I am open to suggestions
Thanks Mark
I wish I had an answer for you. You could try a junk yard and see if you can find the sections you need. Otherwise, join the “OBS Revolution” Facebook page and post your question there. Someone may be able to help you.
Another bad problem fords have is corrosion between gas tank and strap. I just replaced the midship tank on my brothers 97 f250 I coated the tank and straps with truck bed liner and used rubber from a old bicycle tube taped to the straps to prevent friction.
Jay Ward Yup! That’s what happened to my rear tank. I used undercoat to protect the tank. Although, I really like your idea of the bedliner and bicycle tube tape!👌
Could you please provide the measurement for the center of where the pump is located??? That way I can make appropriate cuts! Thanks and great vid!!
So these measurements can vary from truck to truck. But I counted over 6 of the raises ridges in the bed and measured 11 inches from the back (next to the cab) of the truck bed. Otherwise, you can just look underneath the truck between the bed and the tank and try to get a rough idea.
@@TheMinuteMasters unfortunately my pump is right under the main bed support near the cab! Can’t really cut all that out! Oh well....gonna try and just drop the front of tank and pull pump out! Wish me luck! 🤞
@@outdoorzone That sucks. Well dropping the tank isn’t too bad. Watch my video on how to install a plastic fuel tank. It may have some helpful tips for removing fuel tanks.🤙
Is it really that difficult to move the bed? Other vids I’ve seen showed 6 bolts and the bed comes right off. The reason I ask is I’m about to do maintenance on the rear tank on my truck... great video!
MIKE MIKE I’ve never actually removed the bed. From what I’ve seen, it really isn’t difficult. It’s just easier and faster to cut a hole for a hatch. Plus, I’ve had to go back and do maintenance on the gasket and all I had to do was pop a hatch. Thanks! I’m glad you liked it!
Taking the bed loose and moving it back takes about 15 minutes if you have an impact wrench. It's easy. Just make sure you only move it as far as needed to access the pump.
Hugh Breese He’s right! It’s faster if it’s a one time deal. If you plan on revisiting the pump (which I have), it’s faster using the hatch. Maybe I’ll do a video on how to loosen and move the bed.
@@hughbreese573 Yeah sure 15 mins if you live in a perfect world what about froze up bolts what about your license plate lights? Etc. Etc.
you will need to seal that door to avoid water flood to gas tank and fuel pump seal to prevent further corrosion problems.
I still have plastic insert bed liner, so no water is going down through the hatch. Although, sealing it is not a bad idea.
I think I'ma do this same thing to my 98 F-150!
Marcus Zizzo Definitely do it man! It’s totally worth it!🤙
If you are interested. I have a much more up-to-date video about cutting a access hatch in the bed of your truck. I improved upon the design too. Go to my channel and check it out!🤙 Thanks for watching btw!
Is that near the back window or the tailgate,?
It’s near the back window.
I use a sharpie cap cut in half for quick disconnects.... lol. Had to improvise...
Gear1993Head xxx Hahaha! Nice! I had a friend who showed me the sharpie trick. I still wanted to own the tool! Lol
I may have to get one of those for my poor man's tool box.😁
Is that the front or back of the truck bed,?
It’s the back of the truck. This is for the fuel pump for the front tank.
What year is this truck?
Mike Adkins This is a 1995.
By chance do you remember what wires you connected to the grey purple black and black/striped wires from the old connector.
Should have been a orange, dark blue/yellow strip, black, and red.
Cory Rawlins Honestly I don’t remember. I think I traced the wires back to each connector and made some kind of sense of it. I don’t quite remember if the directions helped with that.
The Minute Masters all good my dude!! I appreciate it!!
Cory Rawlins No problem man!🤙
What are the dimensions for that particular cut
Rashad Jackson I can’t quite remember but I think it was 10” x 8”. Honestly, I wish mine was a little bit bigger. Maybe an inch more on the L and W. It’s up to you though what size you want to make it.
The Minute Masters ok cool just curious i got the whole cross flow issue going on with my 96 f150 5.0 thanks def more excessible with this process thankz
Rashad Jackson Ah yes! That’s a very common problem. Glad I could help!👍
Might wanna mention extended cab cannot do this.
That’s what I’ve been hearing but it should work for the rear tank.
I need that wire to the pump.Where can I buy that exact wire?
ozarkprepper1 Do you need the harness that leads to the pump or the wires that come off the pump?
@@TheMinuteMasters A mouse ate the section where it plugs in the top of the pump.
ozarkprepper1 Damn! That sucks! Is there not enough wire to solder it back? Otherwise you could buy a new pump and it would have the section of wire.
@@TheMinuteMasters I was considering that.The 4 prongs are all different lengths like a couple have corroded or something.
ozarkprepper1 Is it the original pump? If so, I’d just replace it. The original fuel pumps eventually start to die once these trucks get over 180k miles.
I'm gonna have to do this. Already did a egr valve. A fuel pump driver module. A fuel rail pressure sensor. Fuel filter. Still have the issue.. so fuel pump in it is. Fuckin truck is costing me an arm and a leg. Luckily I'm able to do some mechanics myself. Great video. Thanks.
Yeah this is definitely the easiest and fastest method to replace a fuel pump. I have a newer video with a different hatch design which is worth watching.
No problem man!🤙
Your pump needs a rubber seal that's why is leaking
See my tank is rear mounted so it’s very easy to drop it
Kameron Stout The rear tank is easier to drop but opening a hatch takes seconds.
The Minute Masters true that
Show the whole truck bed so we can see where,!
Front tank
Never showed where
Front fuel tank/midship tank/middle tank.
6 bolts hold the bed on I took mine out and lifted the bed
Yup that’s the other factory method of replacing a fuel pump. I just wanted a less than 5 minute fix. So I made the hatch. Since then, I’ve used about a half a dozen times.
You didn't have to disconnect any electrical or unbolt the fuel filler hose and things like that? Just trying to decide which route to go.
Joshua DeFore The only thing you need to disconnect are the two fuel lines and the fuel pump harness if you add this hatch. If you drop the tank to replace the pump, then you have to disconnect a lot more.
@@TheMinuteMasters That's what I was thinking, makes sense you'd have to disconnect a lot more removing or moving the bed. Thanks!
Joshua DeFore Yup! The hatch just makes everything easier. No problem man! 🤙 Thanks for watching!
You forgot 1 important step before replacing that fuel pump. Check for power at the pump first.
Da C. That’s true! I guess I figured that since I wired it up correctly it would work. Definitely a here goes nothing moment! Lol But hey, if I had a problem I could just pop the hatch and have a look at the pump!🤙
Just drop the tank your just ruining the bed
Kenneth Kinoshita I’ve dropped both tanks and the front twice. The hatch just makes maintenance so easy. Yeah, I was initially concerned about rust around the hatch. However, I’ve painted everything and coated the more exposed parts. This hatch held up amazingly and my newer larger hatch looks great so far too.
He's probably not hauling around tons of shit like big rocks and junk. Good idea. Some people just use trucks for transportation and moving. He not a crusty ranch hand like you cowboy.
junkyard dawg Hahaha! Probably not. God knows my bed has hauled tons of different stuff.
Made in CHINA
DJ SLOW Yep. That’s most parts these days.