The Common Problem that Affects Many Ferrari 308's - Can it be Fixed?
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- Опубликовано: 16 авг 2021
- My Ferrari 308, the InfluEnzo, refuses to do right turns, the engine bogs down. 308's are known to suffer from this but I can't accept it. So today I try various 'ingenious' tests to try and resolve the problem. This one is going to be tough!
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Check your ground wires. When you turn the steering wheel a bit it may be moving a bad connection. That would also explain a change in voltage and fuel pressure. Check the ignition switch connnectons too; turning the steering wheel may move some lose wires in that connection at the steering column which, in turn, is connected to the ignition switch and cause momentary low voltage going through the whole car.
I fully agree i wanted to say the same thing.
👆What he said 👍
Yup! Turning the wheel could be something to test.
Most fuel issues are electrical
Yes, extending the steering wheel 2 inches may have put some wires in tension.
Having spent months diagnosing an electrical issue with my project car, I appreciate your steadfastness on this project. It’s never as satisfying as finding the problem, but eliminating potential issues is great progress. I’m curious as to why you do all these tests on the road. You may want to consider finding a large parking lot and circling in each direction, looking for differences in measured parameters. That would give you a very consistent data set to evaluate.
Bad voltage regulator on the alternator gives you the erratic engine performance & the alternator earth needs replacing as your friend said it wasn’t ‘always’ charging and it should.
If going to all that trouble I'd have used the cabin GoPro camera on the fuel pressure gauge, and another on the multi-meter, and then synchronised the cameras and reviewed simultaneously on the video timeline. Standard filmmaking practice.
I came across a similar issue in the past, it was a cracked rubber fuel line. Upon turns it was allowing air to enter the system causing the engine to bog down intermittently. Best of luck with the diagnosis 👍
I mentioned last time he's using the screw together fuel filters which are notorious for allowing air into the system, I run 2 1970 BMW 2002's 1 on 45 webers & 1 on 45 Dellortos , I use the plastic molded filters with zero issues . Other 2002 owners have had this issue with the glass filters ( they are behind the engine on a BMW so very susceptible to vacuum leaks. This Ferrari has them on the flow & return lines doubling the problem in my opinion.
@@hawaiisteve932 unliked your comment several times so I could relike it.
@@tariqkhan185 Cheers Tariq .
I'm convinced it is this as well in the line or the filter
@@hawaiisteve932 I’ve had similar issues in the past on a 308GT4 where the issue was an air lock in the fuel line that built up caused an issue then disappeared until next time! The fuel pump was letting in air as it had not been tightened using a torque wrench & a tiny distortion let in air. A new fuel pump properly installed and new fuel lines plus always use a high octane fuel seemed to help. The fuel filter I used was plastic kept away from heat sources.
A large part of that car’s problems, was a previous lack of use in it’s life averaging less than a thousand miles per year over 19 years. It had defective suspension, and electric connectors, needed a top of engine rebuild and when bought the perfect tyres were 19 years old. So no more low mileage Ferrari’s for me!
My present Mondial 3.2 QV has done 70,500 & drives beautifully with a purring engine!
Jack. I've been following you since day 1 and you've done brilliant job getting this far and I'm sure that many of us have enjoyed your tribulations and sympathised with the challenges you've come up against. Enjoy the rest of the summer and tackle the glitches in the winter. You've earned it! Thanks for taking the time to share it with us all
Get the front wheels of the ground and turn the wheel whilst its stationary and running.
👍
Good idea that was thinking similar
I posted this on the last one but don’t think he noticed, or thought it was a rubbish idea 😂
👍 and easily done, good thinking!
Easy enough to test. I know this is a British comment because no American uses "whilst" in their "english".
Get rid of the multi meter and source your self an oscilloscope that way u can see so much more such a glitches on the coil. The multi meter averages so u see what u think is a fixed voltage. U can look at each spark plug and see if they are firing correct and by looking at the electrical signal u can see curling issue hidie and franny did a great video on it with the Porsche
Don’t apologise, it’s brilliant watching you trying to track down the problem,. Already looking forward to the next instalment. Cheers
That popping when it chimes back in tells me it's most likely ignition related, spark stops but fuel doesn't so your exhaust gets filled with fuel vapor that ignites when the ignition comes back on line. Back in the day (before electronics) we used to drive aong, cut ignition then turn it back on to scare the crap out of pedestrians with a big pop.
Jack, try driving a 1980 Ferrari 308 with fuel injection, no bog around right turns, same ignition system. The right hand bog is a well documented problem caused by the IDF carbs not being suited to a transverse engine. Jack the car up again on the right side again as far as you can without rolling over, then take the top of the right carb off and look at the fuel level above the main jet. Or fish a bore scope through the carb vent to look a level while driving.
I’d second the steering column/ ignition switch (heavy keys pulling on the ignition ) and also your earth straps on the engine (stretched and breaking down beneath insulation). Definitely electrical because of low speed and low lateral g’s.
Fuel pressure wouldn't cause that issue as the carbs have enough fuel in them to allow for slight variation in supply.
I agree, this is not a fuel issue. It's electrical.
Right on, Simon!
Great work eliminating possibilities, I expected it to be diet in the tank moving (eg a leaf) near the fuel exit. This is getting gripping now! Well done for keeping a cool head and thinking analytically
Your tenacity at trying to find the issue makes for fascinating videos.
I had exactly the same symptoms on my race car two years ago. It took me few races and lots of tests on electrical and fuel systems to finally find out the cause.
To make it short:
First, it is important to check the float height as a preliminary step, but the best is to check the fuel level that is really in the carb’s bowl, as the float can react differently (difference of weight, but also some can be porous and let the fuel goes inside hence the weight will be different and then the level will also be different).
Secondly, I know you have already checked the float's height, but what is important too is to be sure that the position of the float is 100% horizontal. If it is not the case, and despite the fact that the height “seems” to be correct, there could be enough fuel in the right corners (for example) and not enough fuel in the left corners. To check this, I made a tool with a “U” shape out a piece of metal (the height of the “U” corresponds to the float’s height you should have) and I put it onto the float when I check the float's height. This way, you check the float’s height and whether the float is 100% horizontal, both at the same time.
Hope this will be clear enough (I’m not English) and that will be helpful.
I know how frustrating this must be for you still not finding the cause of the horrible right turn-issue, but your optimism is very inspiring to watch..... Hope you are able to find it soon rather than later but I also read some (possible? ) causes down in the comments so hopefully there are some useful ones....
Although you didn't fix it, it is still great to watch you attempt to eliminate different possibilities. I have confidence that you will get to the bottom of it.
plot spoiler.. boo!
@@Gruxxan Haha, you always need to avoid the comments until you have watched the video ;)
@@HomeBuiltByJeff but i cant help scrolling down the comments haha😂
He doesn't know what he's doing .It will carch up to him sooner or later.I think it wiill carch fire and then he'lblame it on it being Italian cars fault
Hey, so the story goes back to the Dino, the carbs used are not good for East west engines. Lancia sorted the issue with the Stratos, a lot of Dino owners change the carbs to the Stratos IDF webbers, you can buy a kit. It improves engine performance dramatically. I believe it's the same issue with the 308.
Aren’t the carbs in a V6 Dino mounted north south in the car though (so effectively each carb feeds one cylinder from each bank)? DCNFs are mounted east west on the V8 so each carb feeds 2 cylinders on the same bank).
If the car left the factory with this carb design and didnt have this issue then its not likely to be the cause...
My father owned a 308GTB and never had this issue. I worked on a few Dinos and never saw this issue in the 80s. Age onset problem, 99/100 times a worn or broken wire in the loom, in this case, I would look at the wires near the steering column.
It’s the journey that’s interesting Jack, not reaching the final destination. Fabulous videos!!
Agree 👍
I love the song, Don't Stop Believing... this is painful
Have enjoyed the videos....but makes me so happy I have a reliable old air cool 911. Hope you get everything sorted out!!!
Been subscribed to you for at least a year, ever since that guy crashed into your vehicle and ran away. Loving your content.
I would have taken a wire straight from the battery to the postive connection on the coils. So you bypass the ignition switch. Then you know the coils get stable feed of current. I suspect something in the steering column can play games with you. I do not think it is a carb issue. Then it would probably pop and bang a lot when power comes on again. To ba absolute sure it is not a carb issue. Borrow some carburators from your friend, that you know works. Best of luck! You are a very positive and patient man!
The video was great and the GoPro on the carbs was awesome! Add in a little comedy and it was a very enjoyable episode.
I love a good mystery and will certainly keep viewing until it’s solved…..and beyond. It’s a terrific intrigue.
Love the mobile laboratory! Keep it up - it's a very compelling mystery. Don't give up!!
Keep at it man, this might not help but you're giving me a much needed laugh. Great banter between you and Anton. Persistence, Persistence.
Determination and perseverance! Keep the videos coming Jack.
Unless you've run the fuel low I'd say it has to be steering column wiring related since it seems to have occurred after the coupling was replaced.
(Warranty job) lol
Good luck mate.
Love the Influenzo. Its pretty rare but you have the absolute perfect intro music for this Italian car from the 80s
i admire your patience and persistent, its like the never ending story....
It’s beyond belief! Jack’s the best!
Have you looked at the wiring around the steering area. Could it be something with the wiring in that area.as you turn the wheel uj rubs wiring causing short or connection brake?
Italian cars and electrical gremlins go hand in hand, Jack, trust me, I’ve owned several Alfa’s, (still have my favourite 2). My thoughts would be something to do with wiring, maybe steering column related ?. If each carb has a full fuel bowl, those small movements and changes in inertia shouldn’t cause an issue for fuelling. I would check the wires around the steering column to see if anything is chaffing or touching when turning right.
Love your vids and can’t wait to see the smile on your face when you figure this out. It’s always the small, intermittent things that drive us crazy, I feel your pain.
Fabulous problem solving even though you didn’t get to the bottom of it. The mystery is fascinating me. Can’t wait for the next instalment. Btw I bet your neighbours love you!😂😂
Definitely the Coriolis effect. This fault could only happen in the Northern Hemisphere, the combustion swirl in the left side of both bank is such that the air/fuel mixture will miss the spark plugs when the car is turning in a clockwise direction. Easily proven by taking the car to Australia and watching the fault swap sides.
Yes, but in Australia, the car being upside down, the carbs would get empty fairly quickly.
😜
😅😂
This certainly isn’t fuel related, but electrical. Maybe a solder gone brittle somewhere. Are there any wiring in the steering wheel, alarm/immobilizer etc that can cut in and make the engine bog down when rotational forces are exerted? I once took out my ECU board on the 964 and baked it in the oven to reconnect any smoldering solders when hunting for bogging issues. Turned out to be the MAF.
I’m amazed by your persistence Jack!
I had a very similar problem on mine: have you checked the wiring WITHIN the distributor? The insulation gets brittle, cracks and arcs. Looks fine to the eye but as you touch it the cracks open up and fall apart.
Are the floats moving up and down without catching anything and getting stuck against the float chamber? Love the videos - keep going !!
My E-type Jaguar did the same thing. On left hand turns it would bog down.
The problem was the floats in the carbs they filled with gas.
I would concentrate on your carbs.
Fascinating watching you work through potential problems and introducing a guinea pig too! I admire your patience immensely if I had same Patience I might own a Ferrari too....
One really basic point, does fuel system have a breather which may be blocked, can’t remember you working that one. Good luck
Keep going Jack! You will get the Influenzo sorted I’m sure you will buddy! ………. Have you considered maybe performing an Exorcism on the Influenzo!?😂😉👍
I'm going to say it's steering wheel related, not sure how but it's causing an electrical issue when you turn right.
As has already been mentioned, I would check inside the distributer, loss wires or plate not fully secured. Best of luck and as always great watching your videos.
The bogging down when "weaving" on the road cant be down to fuel, if the float bowls are full there just isn't enough time to lose fuel. Got to be an electrical issue IMHO
Yes, I too was thinking the same. There won't be enough 'g's to cause fuel starvation at these low speeds.
@@thomasfrank280 Magneti Marelli wiring of the time being what they were, I'd chase a scuffed wire somewhere, "wiggling" under G forces when cornering. I had a similar intermitten problem on a Datsun 510 decades ago. A loose connector and wire under the dash. Madening. 👹
Sparking at a furniture store one time, I had a delivery driver come to me asking about an intermittent fault on the indicators, I had the notion to thump the plastic cover behind the steering, which caused the indicator to stop working, found the fault to be a spade connector on the wiring loom side was loose.. a simple fiddle with a nose clip pliers fixed it..
This was after the fault was looked at a main dealer, where the indicator stalk was replaced to no avail
Hose cracked somewhere that's introducing an air leak under lateral G force? Lambda sensor will help you track that down but be prepared to weld in bungs on both headers. Quite possible you have a problem on only one bank of cylinders.
@@LesSharp the previous video on this problem showed it happening at really low speeds, driving around his little street at about 15mph. Which made me think it can't be g-force
Hi Jack. Try checking for voltage drop at the pump. Its best to use an oscilloscope which can record a continuous wave form. A short duration cutout probably wouldn't be caught with a volt meter due to its frequency response. For that reason its probably worth repeating the coil voltage test. One last thought......11.57 v at the coil seems a little low. The battery voltage is usually over 12 but less than 13.5 v. ....Poor earth somewhere perhaps ??? Best of luck!
Busy time for you. All work and no play makes Jack a bit tired but his audience very happy.
So glad you’re still
Enjoying these Andrew!!
00:32- Here in the States, I've been hearing the expression to "throw the kitchen sink" at some problem for decades. I didn't realize it was also spoken in the UK! Cheers from California!
The distributor is mounted horizontally, do it have a centrifugal rev limiter, is there any lateral play in the shaft? It could be moving into the distributor on right hand corners. The empty car park idea mentioned in the comments sounds good but remember your not dry sumped so how good are the baffles. Speaking of which, could there be an oil surge, check for blue smoke when cornering.
Brave experiment, electricity, open fueld carbs and a fuel pressure tester, did you take a fire extinguisher with you ? As always a really enjoyable video ☺️👍keep up the great content 😊
To be honest, if it did go up in flames, that would solve his problem.
I saw one on the M25 on Sunday, just looked fabulous from every angle, keep it up, it will be worth it. It's worth saying that your multimeter may not be quick enough to register voltage changes, so don't discount that.
Carb float Level/Installation. Needle sticking. Float sticking. Bent float arm. It looks like there is way to little fuel in the float bowl in your other video. On every carb I have ever worked on, fuel should be up around the halfway point with the floats in place give or take. Pull the airhorns off of all 4 carbs and compare the level of fuel in the float bowls. The one with the least amount of fuel is your problem. How much did the fuel pressure drop? If possible, run it with a temporary fuel tank. See if it makes a difference. Great videos by the way!
I’ve run into a similar problem from carburetor fuel bowl slosh. Adjusting the float levels helped if possible in your carbs. Even then some carbs just don’t handle lateral Gs well when transverse mounted especially if it makes the float hinge point longitudinal to the chassis.
You can completely rule out the electrics by running a temporary fused power wire straight from the coil to the battery positive post clamp, and a clean and tight extra ground from the block to the chassis. You will need to disconnect this temp coil power wire to cutoff the car (turning off ignition will only cut the fuel pump) Make sure existing battery ground connection and ground wire to chassis is solid and tight.
I’ve tried lots of different heights on the floats.. but nothing has made the slightest difference
Keep plugging away at it. You've eliminated lots of potential issues so it has been a worthwhile exercise.
I have watched with interest to your fault finding after the engine head replacement and rebuild. As far at this bogging down issue can I remark that as long as there is fuel in the carbs the engine will run until the fuel in each bole is used up, so fuel pressure is not the issue. Got to be an electrical feed or short out to one bank of the coil packs. Very best of luck to you. Regards
I wish you could get the Influenzo sorted Jack for your peace of mind......then I don't because we love your 308 content.
PS Needle valves in carbs not seating on cornering
Jack, for sure you know the way the distributors work in those cars im order to change the timing depending of the rpms , and i recon the issue is in one of them, they have two bronze weights inside that uses centrifugal force in order to change the timing, they have some bushes that wear and can happen when you turn right the centrifugal force of the cornering pushes the me mechanism out inside the distributor causing a misfire or going out of timing. Not saying that's the issue but due to the fact they sit sideways instead of in a up position can actually cause those issue, can be even the points that stop working. Its just a suggestion.
Yep, folk forget about bob weights.
Oh yesss I love your attitude. It made laugh very nicely also. Your testing setup, the British kitchen sink expression, both of you guys sitting in the car while testing. Hahahahaha really I love it.
And still only at 3:42, as already mentioned to you, there must be something not right perhaps between tank and supply to the bowls. Perhaps the electric feed to the fuel pump? I have been from day one focused on fuel supply between tank and bowls. Check the filters etc.
Cheers from (again!!!) rainy Belgium.
Although the fuel pressure shows correctly you could still have fuel starvation. If the small fuel filters on the carbs are partially blocked you could have a temporary fuel starvation issue as the fuel shifts in the bowls and is not replaced quickly enough. I would recommend removing all the carb fuel filters and test driving.
Also you should look into high fuel flow needles and seats on the carbs which I think are called gross valves that refills the bowls quickly.
I have a ducati paso motorcycle that uses the same carb and they have been known to suffer from inconsistent fueling.
Your plan to hook up an air fuel ratio meter is an excellent plan that should give you your answers and if it shows a lean condition on corners then it can be compensated by the previous suggestions as well as running the higher fuel levels in the bowls and higher fuel pressure as you have done but compensating the rich situation by using different emulsion tubes and jets.
I would be surprised if your issues weren't carb related, those weber dcnf's can be fickle.
Good luck, I look forward to see how you get on.
Can you feed the carbs with a temp fuel tank to eliminate any petrol tank issues. You could temp plumb it into the pump ? Use a petrol can as a tank to keep it safe (ish). Sounds a bit daft but you are short on options. !
Its very instant and for that reason i would rule out fuel. Someone else said jack up the front and turn the steering wheel, a nice easy check. Good luck Jack and i'm dying to know what the prob is.👍🇬🇧
Love his methodical approach
Must say acceleration and under engine shots simultaneously the most exciting thing seen all day. One mild grey raining Cheshire Aug day. Oh for living in Blighty
Clicked so fast once I saw it was the return of the 308, God I love this car and it's I will do what I want to do attitude. Great vid as always.
Thanks so much Terry!! Glad you’re sticking with it!!!
On a carb engine the bowls has a dampening effect. If fuel pressure drops for a second the fuel bowls hold enought fuel to keep the engine running. I can ride my motorbike for a good few hundred meters with a closed fuel tap before it starts to bog down.
Seems like ignition issue to me. How many coils does it have? Did you measure all of the coils?
Keep up searching for the problem. I really enjoy this series of vids. I wish you the best of luck, Jack!
More steps closer anyways Jack, you will sort it out! Best wishes!
You needed the lucky pj's lol good luck with your quest for perfection jack very enjoyable watching 👍
well I've said previously check the output voltage for the x2 voltage regulator thingies, also check the voltage on both ground & positive at all the power cables, as you may have a faulty cable..
also check the fuel pick-up within the fuel tank, their could be a fault their hence a reduced pressure on certain driving aspects etc
I really hope you find the problem, I’m dying to know the cause! Another long shot for the pot: what plane do the carb floats rotate through? Wonder if the centrifugal force on a right hand bend would cause them to lift and thus starve one bank.
First time I went to the US, I initially struggled to do left hand turns while being on the wrong side of the road and the car. You’ll be surprised how far you could get just making left turns for the rest of your life. Cant deny its an option.
Ha!!! 😄😄😄😁😁😄
@@Number27 :-)
Check your earth's, battery terminal, also the factory isolator next to spare wheel, make sure nothing is pressing on it around bends, also if you run original fuse boards they can be all sorts of fun around corners, it's something simple.
Please check wire between contact breaker in distributor and ignition coil ( the low voltage wire), I have once broken wire inside isolation that was looking fine, everytime when engine shift in the bay to one side it was pulling and interrupting, this will also explain why from time to time you have backfires because when it get back in contact it will make spark.
Wow! Before the Ferrari you had 20k subscribers, now more than double that, well deserved for sure!
Why not take it on a track day and really throw it around some corners to exacerbate the problem - that should give you more frustration, hopefully a clearer picture and some more painful pleasure for us!
IMO it sounds like an earthing or wiring chaffing problem somewhere in that spaghetti of a loom.
Thanks Chap, yes the Ferrari has really helped grow the channel.. on the other hand I can’t just rely on that to get views. Hoping people also enjoy the other stuff!! Thanks for watching!
I'd rather have wanted to check the voltage to the coils with an osciloscope, the multimeter is going to put some degree of dampening on the signal wich an osciloscope won't.
And if it was a quick drop the voltmeter might miss the event. Definitely a job for an oscilloscope
I totally agree. The tool is a great investment and get a dual channel. Much more easy to diagnose electrical problems. You would be able to monitor each cylinder while running and easy to compare data.
@@XiraArien Indeed, you can allso check on the health of the regulator as someone have pointed out in the comments, it'll give you a definite answer. There are cheap ones that can be run from a laptop or even your phone.
After to watching the video, I came down to the comments to post exactly this, glad to see someone beat me to it!
I think your right..The inertia causes a change in the fuel level in the float bowls and starves the engine of fuel.
Several people have mentioned a wiring problem in the area of the steering column. This would account for an issue when turning the steering wheel and also account for not being able to produce the problem, when jacking-up the car on one side.
The alternator should be outputting 14v and even with the load of the coils should be well above 12v - closer to 13v or more. I would check ground straps ( just clean everyone regardless), earthing points for the wiring loom as well.. Also put the multimeter in series with the battery to see current draw while running (and also going round right hand turns). If the alternator is working you should be able to disconnect the battery positive and the car should still run as the alternator (if working propertly) will output enough current. There is a scenario where you have a short happening when g-forces of right hand cornering move the loom AND the alternator is not outputting enough current/voltage. The fact that you can pretty much making it happen near instant the moment the steering is turned I would also inspect all connectors around the steering column even cables near the column joints. Hope that give some ideas for next checks.
Jack, the expression is "I'm going to throw everything at it except the kitchen sink"......
Very creative, like the next step idea. They don’t teach this stuff in High School Auto Mechanics 🤣. It was 1975 11th grade, we had to get an engine on a stand to start. I for some reason took a few 12g insulated wires and touched the battery to coil in some odd fashion and essentially sent enough current through the wires to kill a horse. Big cloud of smoke, burn marks across all my fingers holding the wires and insulation of wires vaporized in seconds. I have much respect for auto electrical systems now. 🥴😳👍
Check your spark plug cables. Measure the resistance while moving/bending each cable.
Not sure fuel is your issue...the fuel bowls are there to smooth out any slight fluctuations in fuel pressure. I'd look at electrical issues, but one thing i'd check is the alternator output. it looks like there is an issue, so that is something specific you can address. you may find sorting that has a knock on effect. You could also be onto something with inertia, vs just the angle. A tricky one, but the positive aspect is you can pretty much create the issue on demand, which really helps. Good luck with this!
Isn't the original phrasing, "Everything BAR the kitchen sink!"??
That makes FAR more sense too!!
Things to try (I don't think it is fuelling as the residual fuel in the carbs wouldn't show an issue like that if the pressure was dropping so briefly/ intermittantly...maybe??)-
Steering column switches (indicators specifically)
Try a new battery - if it's lead-acid there could be a chance of internal problems, general battery movement, or connector problems
Electrical Connector blocks (all) - The blades and seats can become oxidised or loose, causing such a subtle problem that it wouldn't be noticable to the eye. A proper cleaning/adjusting/continuity check could help.
Good Luck. :)
some of the insulatingoil may have leaked from one of the coils ,so it flows inside causing a shortwhen turning mainly/especially if if the coils are mountedhorizontally,
Had a similar problem on a Metro van years ago. It turned out to be a faulty coil. When cornering the oil inside sloshed across to one end weakening the spark. Might be worth checking.
You know, due to the unique nature of this engine it would be fairly easy to do two quick test runs just running on one bank at a time and see if there were any difference between the two. If there were then you'd have at least narrowed it down to either the 1-4 or 5-8 side.
A mystery alright. Damn fustrating for you. Wish I could suggest something. Will keep watching and good on you from Kiwiland.
I must admit, I am tending towards the electrical fault camp. If the right hand turn causes a bad wire to move very slightly that may explain why jacking the car up didn't have an effect, the force was constant not changing so the wire didn't flex as it would under cornering. Why it is only right hand bends I don't know, unless the wire is supported in such a way that left hand bends don't cause it to move but right hand do.
Very creative, enjoyable video!
Footnote - a built in, wide band AFR meter was a necessity in my car as well as a voltage gauge that replaced the clock.
It seems weird that it bogs right when you turn the wheel, it has no delay (that would indicate fuel feed issues to me, like a spitfire during a barrel roll, it's fine, until it's not). The bang you get feels like an abrupt cut and then ignition back on, I guess with a wideband O² sensor and a gauge it's rich during those phases. If it was fuel related, it wouldn't bog as clean as that, it would feel more like fuel starvation. Anyway it's just what my brain tells me just from the video and audio. Its funny because my neighbour called me, his S800 has fuel issues, one of the carbs is filling the engine with fuel, looks like a float, needle issue. I really like your determination, and that expression made me laugh so much. I'll try in French see what reactions I get ahah. Cheers !
I had a FFord once which cut out on tight right handers and I eventually discovered the inlet manifold had broken on the underside and on right handers the weight of the carb was pulling the manifold over and opening up a crack and sucking in air. I'd doubt if it was that after an extensive rebuild though and your manifolds are fore/aft so wouldn't be affected by lateral movement but maybe check all the carb bolts to make sure the bodies are secure?
I would just like to say, It sounds great when you punch it on the straight, and it's good fun on the overrun!
"Everything but the kitchen sink!"
"Nah, mate, the sink, too."
I agree with the earlier comment that it can't be fuel pressure. Each Weber is feeding 2 cylinders and the fuel bowl acts as a 'buffer' so there is always fuel available, even if the pump stopped for 1 or 2 seconds. The fact that it is pretty well instant means it can't be fuel pressure. Are these carbs used on any other vehicle or vehicles? Do these vehicles have the same problem? If not, is there anything unique with the Ferrari version of the carb? Lambda sensor is a great idea to confirm or eliminate fuel as the cause.
Italians really do know how to style beautiful cars. Unfortunately mechanical elements need more than beauty!!
By the way, I love the banter between Anton and yourself. It would be great to see him every now and then :-)
Noted and thanks dude!!
Just a thought - there is a difference between cornering and jacking up, which is that when you accelerate cornering the engine is under load, whereas when you open throttle jacked up the engine is off-load so it'll spin up much more freely on a lot less fuel. You'd need a jacked-up rolling road* to compare apples with apples on that one!
*NOT recommended unless you're sponsored by a company that makes the mother, father and entire extended family of all ratchet straps! Haha!
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yes tilting is emulating sloshing the fuel from side to side but isn’t the same as applying a sideways force irrespective of whether the engine is under load or not as well so wouldn’t be a conclusive static test for other possible causes of the issue?
I feel I am with your pain on this and I bet everybody has a thought on this , but when they did the steering did the remove or undo a Earth strap ? With out looking I don’t know where they are on your car Jack but just undo them give them a good clean and put back ?
👍👍👍👍
Fuel pressure and ignition is a good start, but I wouldnt doubt maybe a valve or valve seat is worn, a cam lobe could be worn, giving you the exciting back fire, I had a 75 camaro hot rod that had really high miles and it would sputter and back fire like yer car, I did a quick cam swap and it stopped, re set the valve lash of course. Dont rule out the valve train..
The common problem that affects many 308s is that they have their owners constantly pulling their hair out, lol!
🤣🤣🤣 I knew a guy years ago, an auto parts wholesaler, who's dream car was a 308. He had it fixed and maintained at my own mechanic and long time friend Norm's garage. And a top notch mechanic, an expert in carbs and injection. Both were pulling their hair. Every time, Norm saw the guy coming in, he went " Oh god, not him again !" The guy sold the damn thing "as is, no guarantee" after 2 1/2 years.
Don't get me wrong, I'm in love with that car, a so iconic shape. But I could'nt afford a 150$C titanium bolt holding the alternator !
As others have been suggesting, for the last couple of videos, jack the front up (so both fronts are off the ground at the same time) run the car, rev it up and turn the steering wheel.
Lovely 308 and I wish you luck with solving this latest issue. I notice the front wheels are a bit dull compared to the rear ones. Is there a detailing technique to bring these back to original shine? Best of luck with the car, each snag seems only to build the vehicles character further.
More brake dust on the front wheels compared to the rears.