My wife at 62 has been playing golf for about 12 years and has always hit her driver straight to fade to slice. She bought this driver 6 months ago and day one set the weight to full draw and instantly started hitting everything straight to a slight draw. No swing changes just set the weight. This driver does exactly as advertised.
James! Great, great video! You illustrated so clearly the dangers of tinkering. May I humbly add....it can be equally dangerous to get custom fit ONLY once for a club? I just had an interesting experience on this topic. I was recently fitted for a Titleist 818h2 hybrid. 3 weeks ago to be precise. On that day my ideal settings were B4 with a heavier weight than standard in the fade setting! For those of you who don’t know, B4 for a lefty means: 1: flattest lie setting (1*flat) 2: lowest loft setting (-.1*) 3: most fade (open face) I hit it well that day. I was SURE that we had gotten it right. I hit it great my first day of practice with it, too. But from that point forward it proved to be too extreme a setting. Everything went LEFT. So I put the club in A4 setting witch returns everything to standard except the loft. I did leave the heavier weight in the fade setting, though. I have hit it great ever since! I guess the moral of this story is “make sure you are hitting the ball the way you typically would on the day of a fitting!” 😀😜
I have the JPX 900. I always play a draw, and my miss is an overdraw left. I put the weight into the "fade" setting to reduce my draw, not to actually hit a fade. This actually does help me avoid the big miss left quite a bit. The problem isn't that the weights don't work, it's the way the settings are labeled. My fade setting is actually just an anti-hook setting.
Hi James. Give it to your Mid Handicapper to see fade and draw settings. You are a Golf Professional which means you know what you are doing. Us mid handicappers think we know sometimes then other times lose the plot.
I was fitted for this driver. We went through multiple driver heads and shafts. The pro has mine set at draw. I do not miss to the right. This was the first time I’ve ever been properly fitted for a driver. It works for me.
As I understand it most Club Fitters will use a movable weight in the back of a driver when a Player has a regular point of mishit on the Driver face. However, if they are trying to influence a particular shot shape they will use the lie angle in the neck sleeve as this has much more influence on the shape of the shot. With a right-handed golfer, an upright lie angle will encourage a right to left flight and a flat lie will help promote a left to right flight. But if the Golfer continuously puts a BAD strike on the Ball the Bad strike will override any Countermeasures taken by the Club Fitter.
Based on having watched multiple other reviews and fitting video's the movement of the weight doesn't necessarily add draw of fade bias, but it does move the weight to the side where the player tends to make impact which puts the CG closer to that impact point.
I believe the draw fade adjustments are used in conjunction with the loft adjustments. For example, if you take the driver down one degree it opens the face. You could then use the draw adjustment to compensate if you don’t want an open face.
Love that, your the first reviewer I've seen that has questioned the naming ie fade/ draw, maybe it should be a + and - and its marketed has face stabilizer.
They do make a ton of difference. The sensors for flight path if you have 2 are maybe set 3 ft apart and on simulators it just can’t read fade and draws for most people. I have a terrible fade and when I go to simulators it’s always draws. The sensors can’t pick up for late fades or draws
Thank you James! Late Bloomer to the game of golf, so don't put too much thought into this comment(s). I am of the opinion to keep the Draw/Fade in the neural position and enjoy the loft setting when the course calls for changes for this novice golfer, the Draw/Fade adjustments didn't seem to help my swing/lie. I bought and love my used Epic Driver (nothing to compare it to). More hits on the ball help's my game more than any setting. JS Thanks again for the video and have fun.
You also have to adjust the loft which also closes or opens the head at address.... while getting fit my fitter let me warm up with my old driver mentioned that my averages were so consistent that the fitting will go well... He said don’t change anything and let him work.... first he found the best loft after a few clicks... then slid the weight twice and I started blasting the ball to the sound of 30yds and a dispersion of 5-10yds which blew my mind..... took it to the course and now golf is enjoyable... I went back to see him 3weeks later for irons ...before high 80s low 90s...now high 70s low 80s... from time to time I’ll shoot 3or4 over when I’m on... I just got a proper putter fitting and again the change is amazing... moral of the story... Get lessons build a solid swing for base at the range... once your swing is workable and consistent then get fit.... put in the work and you’ll see the difference.... all within 1 year... next fitting is for a ball and the woods will be last because I’m ok with those for now...
Shouldn't the comparison be with neutral setting in the first place, to see the impact of change of weight? And there is the option to change the head setting to draw. Like to see that one too!
i would like to see the test completed when you do not know what setting the weight is at. Knowing what the weight is set at can lead to knowing what you need to do to compensate. Also strike plays a major role in these results. And it does look like your left swings were more pulls than draws.
Just picked up a demo from Callaway Used Golf... Epic Flash Sub Zero Hzrdus Smoke 70 for $300. I don't think it had a single swing on it! Anyway, I had similar results. The draw setting just feels more solid, but I honestly pick up a few yards in neutral and see my forward dispersion tighten up a bit. Cheers from across the pond James.
Mark Crossfield talks a lot about this His thoughts are that the weights are moving the CG around, there’s some tour pros with the weights set in non neutral positions Really enjoying your videos!
You're right. Rather than draw and fade; these settings affect the speed of the release or turnover. So if you turnover the club reasonably well on most shots and have a draw shape to your swing (James), the fade setting should have little effect or maybe just straighten a bit, but the draw setting should enhance the draw. I would suggest naming the settings "amplify vs delay" turnover. Hence if ones timing is very "neutral" this may lead to draw and fade; if not good amplify may lead to inconsistency only, where as delay may actually lead to better club face consistency.
I game the epic flash and have hit hundreds of balls with the weight set in both the fade and draw setting, I see very minimal if any difference (3 hcp). That being said it is my favourite driver I have ever owned.
In the old days, we took a little lead tape and adhered to the toe or heel for the same reason as the weight. I got fitted for one of these yesterday and he put the weight out toward fade then said to hit it as hard as I could which usually produces a snapper for my swing. It didn't snap. I pulled it but no snapper. Sold. I agree with you though. No question.
James I thought you would have started off in neutral to see how you were swinging, before moving to fade and draw for comparison? But yes, if you can't swing consistently and ball strike / club path is all over the place then these club adjustments could aid, OR make the shot worse..........and it will all be down to the luck of the strike. I would recommend improving strike and club path consistency before tinkering................but what do I know???
At the end of the day the weights can only do two things. One provide momentum behind the point of impact, and second differences in the shaft rotation. No body has any doubt that having the weight directly inline with the impact position on the face makes the shot feel more solid. That's exactly what club makers learned about muscle-back irons versus cavity backs. So in regards to factor number 2, the shaft rotation, this is controlled by the torque characteristics of the shaft. With a high quality low torque shaft with torque in the region of 2.7 to 3.0 or so, the inertia of the swing far out weighs any rotation influences of a 10 or 12g weight. But with a higher torque shaft perhaps in the 3.7 to 5.0 region (Ladies, or soft regular) and a slower swing to suit the shaft.....that could be a different story, a 10 or 12g weight may have the ability to twist and overcome such a high torque (easy twist) shaft. Just a thought....and maybe worth testing the weights together with shafts of different torque characteristics??
I have the Epic Flash and frankly I saw no appreciable change in ball flight in either the draw or fade setting. On drivers I have had that had fixed front and rear weights where one can adjust heavier or the lighter weight both fore and aft I do see a difference in flight trajectory. Heavier weight in rear definitely launched higher than heavy weight in the front. This was from observation only as no shot tracker available to measure spin rate so you make an inference probably higher spin on rear weighting. This would be on the same loft setting for both.
Like the idea behind this test as it’s something we all wonder but to make it a valid one the strike and club path data needs to also be looked at in conjunction with the flight data
I read somewhere that for majority of people a draw biased driver would be beneficial, think it was an interview with a Ping engineer. Probably little bit harder to square the huge modern driver heads due to air resistance so a heel side weight will counter balance that somewhat. Based that I bought a draw biased driver (M4 D-Type) without fitting. The draw setting would mostly be beneficial to tour pros with robotic precision playing a course where slight fade would position them better for the approach. ...0.00000000001% of golfers.
The other thing to remember is by moving the weight in the back also moves the CG location in the club. By this unless you are striking the ball in line where the weight is on the face of the club then the performance will drop off also. I previously had an R15 with it in the draw setting and had predominately heel side strikes with still relatively good performance. New driver, no weight adjustments, striking more in the middle with some swing work.
I got a Epic Flash as i struggle with blocks to the right and it’s a draw bias driver like the Rogue, i get more clubhead speed and distance from it which is fantastic.
Taylormade weight settings work, I think they are to be in conjunction with sleeve. Excuse my ignorance but if you grip the club to hard you can nigate the fade and draw settings. Also depending where the weight is should slow that part of the face from turning 🤷🏾♂️Idk what you think? I'm a 19hcp golfer, driving is not my issue. I've tinkered with the setting I see a difference but I'm usually str8 or slight cut on miss hit. Current weight setting 88g xtiff shaft TM M5 9.0 degree weight (1) back (1) draw. Launch angle on monitor is about 13-15 degree.
I have a 2017 M1 and have found you can definitely affect spin and forgiveness with the front to back weight track. I also found minimal draw/fade track adjustment seems to be more consistent. I'm not sure the expected physics of the adjustment works with the high handicap player. My theory is the high handicapper does not release the club. He 'death grips' the club and the face does not close as it should. I think if you give this golfer a full fade setting, he sets up with face turned down or closed, and swings a club with more weight on the toe which pulls the hands away from the body. So if you set up with the toe of the club on the ball, the 2 inches the club is pulled away from the player means the ball is struck closer to the middle. Now if the same player uses a full draw setting, this leaves the lighter toe open at impact because it didn't close, thus you get more push fades, or block the shot out to the right. In this driver you can pull the low/high spin weight and place it in the draw/fade track so that you have more weight close to the face to lower spin, and more adjustable weight to dial in dispersion.
I honestly believe that it's more of a mental thing. Someone who isn't as good or intentionally hit a draw/fade when they chose too and, like myself, just naturally hits a push or a slice most times.. when my golf tutor adjusted some things on my driver and said that should fix it, and it did. But I found out towards the end of the season he didn't do anything. I believe it's like 'Jordan's Secret Stuff' in the classic Space Jam. But that's just me.
A good player will adjust to the settings and hit his shot shape after a few swings. That's why when testing clubs(Mizuno) they only ask you to make 3 swings.
Good video, James! I always fiddle with the weights and lofts on a new driver (because they're there!) and then end up back at neutral and standard loft. I think most golfers will adjust subconsciously to any changes they make. But I'm not nearly consistent enough for it to make a difference. When I stop mucking about (as you Brits say) with the torque wrench and focus on path and rhythm...that's when I get the most out of equipment.
Interesting test there James....I have never owned a 'sliding weight' driver, as I thought that they are a bit of a gimmick, a placebo effect for the mind. How much could that small weight and track length be of great significance? The last driver I did purchase, and currently use is the Rogue Sub-zero. Now there is a club/tech that actually does perform how it is suppose to, when you move the heavier weight into the front thread....Dropped the spin rate down, and added length to the drive (just that a side-effect of dispersion might occur) I remember laughing when Mizuno came out with a driver 1 to 2 years ago, it had so many sliders and weights and looked ridiculous (did they actually do anything?). Never knew anyone that bought one. Keep up the good work mate.
Callaway believes in the technology since it is in the 2024 AI-Smoke drivers! There has to be some THERE there. I have the Epic Flash and use that weight adjustment to calm down my natural draw bias. It works!! If you want to revisit this, you should find players that over-draw and over-slice their drives. Those are the ones that can leverage this technology. Average players are not good enough to use this to "add" draw/fade to their game. You are a good player so you can compensate for the feel in the head. The weights that are included in the head are not the only ones that can be used. You can get alernate weights so that you can get heavier/lighter changes (10g - 17g) and you can also affect the swingweight with additional front weight changes (2g - 14g). To me the point you missed is how configurable these Epic Flash (aka Callaway like the 2023 Ai-Smoke) heads truly are. These are not simple off the shelf drivers anymore. Throw in that you can change the shaft at will and it is insane what can be done today as compared to 20+ years ago. It bugs me that the configurability is not advertised and pushed by the vendor. Its like they don't want to sell the extra weights. I also doubt those "fittings" include changes to the stock installed weights. Maybe we should go back to lead tape?
Instead of draw/fade, it should be a scale of the release (early/late). I think the real difference with the slide weight is the feel of the club face on the downswing. Also, I just experimented putting the heavier weight from my old rogue into my flash subzero and I love it! Spin went from 2800 to 2600. Club feels like it releases itself nicely at the bottom. Try it out if you have old weights.
Thanks James, this is a video post I been wanting to see, I'm one who wants to fade the ball, aim left and swing hard then look up and see it fading back to center. I'm not sure this driver is going to do this. My Cobra Fly Z and Cobra f8 drivers in the straight position both fade and in the draw positions do influence to the left, so I will stick with what I have for now. Good video.
The weight setting seem to do the most for off center hits by minimizing the gear effect that causes a hit out of the toe "draw", and heel to "fade". So if you consistently hit out of the toe you would want the weight in the toe.
Hi James. Moving the weight moves the CG and that is directly related to where the ball NEEDS to hit the face. He’s a bit of a strange man but crossfield did a good video on this subject. Check it out for all the technical information relating to what I’ve just said about movement of CG and ball/face contact point.
I actually like the system. When you get fitted you leave the neck setting alone face open/closed and loft. Then you can adjust the weights to make minor changes before a round depending on your swing that day. Easier to use than say the M5 that makes it difficult to fine tune before a round.
James, arn't these settings used to correct swings rather than set up positively for them? For example if I usually fade my shots then add some draw in the adjustment to correct? I have never actually understood all this, maybe now your all callaway, they could advise everyone via you about what the idea is?
I'm wondering how much your body subconsciously adjusts when you know its in a certain setting? It'd be interesting to see, if someone set it up for you, then handed it to you sole down, if that made any difference to the shot shape?
Good video. I’ve never found and differences in the weight changes either. Except for the low low speed on m3 But it feel like crap and goes every where I the real low spin setting. I believe the m4 and m6 is more forgiving for reg golfers is the area on the face just mire head there than others
iv only been play few months and used to slice quite bad, bought an f8 driver and still sliced, changed to draw settings and they go a lot straighter now
The biggest thing from previous models is the length of the track for the perimeter weighting. In previous models (Big Bertha, Great Big Bertha) the track was much longer. Even though this weight is heavier than those weights the positioning more towards the heel or the toe had a much larger impact on dispersion than the Epic Flash.
I still play the TM SLDR I put the wieght in the draw setting as my miss is heel/heavy fade the wieght in the heel gives me more forgiveness on miss strikes
What does work is when you throw all tools at the task and then let them all contribute in their small additive way. Face address angle, shaft head lie angle (flat / upright), slidable weight, grip size. The other thing that I personally think is the most important is to have a committed shot shape for your driver and teed 3wood - i.e. pick either a Draw or a Fade and then setup everything (your mind, your swing & your club settings) to maximize your control over hitting this shot. It is not a surprise that you struggled with the Fade setting - in most of your videos you seem to be a couple yard draw person - thus I think the Draw setting reinforced this natural tendency and delivered for you a more consistent result - i.e. Draws - where as the Fade setting allowed you to swing easier (you then drew some and faded the first) - but squaring the club became a issue of consistency - i.e. your worst nightmare for the Driver. I have personally set up both my Driver & 3wood with Upright shaft settings as this helps be further commit to a Draw setup knowing that the club will be helping me - it is ofcourse easy to fade anything with swing path but a slight Draw enhanced setup for these two long clubs is mentally a better approach for me. I have tested clubs in an anti left setup - and it can work for sure - but if I was going to do that, I would commit to only Fading the Driver so that everything was aligned that way - like DJ
What makes a difference for me is, did I remember to put 3 beers in my bag cooler and is there a beverage cart on the course. These settings I think do not make a difference in my opinion. Use lead tape maybe
Nice video mate , I would like to see you do the test blind ! ie have someone set the weight setting for you and you not knowing if it’s in fade or draw bias .
If you don't hit in the direct middle of the club sweet spot. Unfortunately adjustable weights will not have the desired effect. It would be hard to calculate what the center of mass will do when you don't hit the exact same spot every time. I think most people will adjusting this on an individual basis, that is wherever the strike the ball on average the most and then adjusting to a their unique strike rather than what is ideal or in an instruction manual.
James Robinson Golf Well! Very windy at the range, strongly right to left. I normally have the weight setting at neutral. Started there then moved to draw and finally fade. Swing was okish today so I don’t think that impacted my results. Draw seemed to have little impact, and this is my normal shape when swinging well. I did manage to hold the ball up in the wind with the fade setting. Not really convinced there was a huge difference and now put the weight back to neutral. As a general comment I love the Epic Flash and wouldn’t change it for anything.
I’ve always found the label to be misleading. As if, set it to fade if that is your miss and set to draw if that is your miss. In my titleist fairway wood I use the fade setting in the weight to feel the toe more and allow me to get the toe around more and draw. I think of them like a putter weighting. No one has heel weighted putter to help you close the face at impact, seems it should be the same for all clubs
I have 7 rounds in with my Epic Flash. I was fitted by a pro and the first 4 rounds I hit the the driver well.... then one bad round and the wrench came out. Ugh.... I went to a draw bias and had four bad driving rounds. I have set it back to the original setting and improved. Good advice: lose the wrench.
Thanks for doing this video, I’ve had my epic flash for quite a few years and love it. I’ve played with it in the draw position and the neutral position and for the most part I stay in the neutral position. But I just picked up a Callaway paradigm so now it’s time to compare them both in neutral and then when I settle on one start playing around with draw versus fade versus neutral. I’m curious to know how it will come out? And which grouping might stay tighter?
I think it’s all based on strike location , I find they don’t work when I adjust , but does center your strike , so maybe company’s should not put draw and fade on them, but I do like the adjustable rails 😊
Draw and fade is just PR. Doesnt mean it does nothing, it slightly moves the CG, but forget fade and draw. Personally i have never ever changed a setting on my driver, i get something that works and then its my job to keep my swing in shape enough to keep it working.
James, I thought the same thing on these new drivers when they moved the weight all the way to the back. I thought, how’s that going to help? Test an old SLDR where the weight is the front behind the face. I bet it will have more effect there than in the rear.
When this moveable weight tech was first introduced, we were told that the draw setting, with more weight in the heel would make it easier to release the club head, and eliminate a slice. Vice-versa for the weight placed in the toe. 15 years later, and I think this premise is nonsense, based on my ability to slice the crap out of ANY club, regardless of where the weight is. I even went through the trouble of purchasing weights outside the range of those sold by the manufacturers in their "weight kits," via EBAY. Putting an even heavier weight in the heel didn't make the club draw, it just made it heavier. I agree with those who say that moving those weights simply SLIGHTLY moves the CG from one side or the other, and can help a little with off-center hits on the side, heel or toe, where you tend to miss with your strike.
I wonder if the settings are: if you are drawing the ball you shift the weight to draw to straighten it out and vice versa? Bizarre but based on your test it seems so. Your swing is good enough that I don't think the mixed results were on you. So it really makes me wonder if there isn't some sort of language issue more than technology issue. At any rate this club is just awesome I can hit mine over 300 yards and haven't hit it that far in 15 years so... wow. In fact it's so long it's actually messing me up a little because I'm in yardages that can be difficult for me. I need to move back a tee I guess.
This might not make sense but, I think this test would be better if: You tried to hit Draws/Fades instead of trying to hit straight. In other words. Set the club neutral, try to hit fades. Then set the club to fade and try to hit fades. Then set to draw and try to hit fades. Lots of moving parts in a golf swing, not to mention alignment, hard to take the human part of the equation out without taking out the human. I'd be interested in knowing how much weight difference there is from heel to toe at each extreme position. My guess is that the swing speed has a lot to do with how much affect the weight will have but, that the swing itself has more to do with the result than the weight does. But hey, whatever the marketers can tell someone to get them to buy a $400 golf club is fair game I suppose. After all, we have no problem spending $200 for a putter.
... Could just call it “CG Heel” and “CG Toe”. Then the weight just mirrors the location you tend to have contact the face. I’ve never had a weighted driver that changed the shape all that much. I find it far more useful to get the weight behind where I strike the face.
I think we have to remember that the Flash is a draw bias club vs a sub zero which is a fade bias club so I would think that way before moving the weight a hair
I appreciate your energy and reviews....but by chance am I mistaken, for it appears what you said "fade first" then a "draw setting" second; however, it appears that what you said was the opposite of what you did. It appears you had the draw setting first (the weight was at the toe side) even though you stated it was on the fade setting. Then on the second test you had the weight on the heel side (which I thought was actually a fade setting) even though you stated it was on the draw setting. I guess I am going crazy.
Here's a video you should make compare a right handed shaft Sleeve against again left handed Sleeve and see the difference... Most fitters claim a left handed sleeve flattens the head lie angle which they claim will change ball flight left to right..... I'm sure your subscribers would like to see that video
Yeah a few right, a few left, but did you keep it in the fairway? If it's good enough technology to pull right and left hits back in toward the middle a little then that's what most amateur players would like
Unfortunately it only changes CG. I wish they wouldn't try and sell us on to which way the ball flight would go. If you hit the club more in the heal then, put the weight in the heal. If you hit more in the toe then, put the weight in the toe. That's the best way to get the most out of any club in my opinion. Logically speaking, we would think heavier in the heal would allow the toe to urn over faster but, if you hit it towards the toe with a weaker strength grip, it would cause it to go right plus lose so much distance because the CG is now in the wrong place. I feel heavier in the toe could cause opposite effects. It might make the toe turn over faster by getting the weight moving with mass and burning the looks, I might be correct. Strike and especially path, dictate everything.
For me the sliding weight simply resulted in my strike tracking where the weight was set - so the draw setting gave me heel strikes (and a fade!). Again for me the far better adjustment was the hosel sleeve. I always felt me Epic (not Flash) driver sat slightly open at address, moving the hosel into draw setting meant, to my eye, the driver sat square at address. Net result is a ball flight that is much less likely to leak right - OK off the planet right!
So you're an over the top fader of the ball, perhaps got some back problems stopping you turning properly causing this swing type. Last thing you need is a square face hitting the ball in the left rough. I think moveable weights are only useful for someone who delivers the club consistantly in the first place who can then eliminate one side of the golf course.
I’ve had so much difficulty keeping the ball straight on an Epic Driver or doing what you want it to do, must get fitted for correct shaft - lie - weights
I had the epic and when I moved the weight I noticed that the feel of the club at impact changed not the flight direction. When I put it in fade the club felt off and also when in full draw. Half way between neutral and draw felt the best. Left it there. I think it should be called a feelometer
I never noticed any consistency in the settings. It was mostly how I was swinging that day, which we all know our swings vary from day to day. I sold it and bought a Ping G400 Max driver, with no adjustable settings for fade or draw. And why would I need them on that club when 99% of my drives with it go straight anyway? :-)
It seems to me almost backwards. I know the physics is that the heavier part of the club would be slower, but to me having more weight in the heel (draw) wouldn’t allow the toe to slam shut as fast. Since the toe is traveling faster anyway since you roll your hands and forearms that the toe weight in the “fade” setting might make it do the opposite.
Those settings should 💯 something else. Other drivers have the setting labeled the opposite of this one. It's not always about face angle at impact but strike location. Some people just need extra support on one side or the other to help fight gearing that is the opposite of what they would use based on their shape.
I don’t like Adj weighted drivers. If you know the face sends it and the path bends it. Know what your misses are and fix them. Weighted forces a different swing instead of doing it naturally.
A. It changes center of gravity, B. We used to use lead tape. C. This works if you add enough weight. D. The manufactures obviously knows it works. Why is this so hard to understand?
Congratulations..Finally someone wonders just how much these weights help.. or don't.. Thanks James
More than welcome my friend
My wife at 62 has been playing golf for about 12 years and has always hit her driver straight to fade to slice. She bought this driver 6 months ago and day one set the weight to full draw and instantly started hitting everything straight to a slight draw. No swing changes just set the weight. This driver does exactly as advertised.
James! Great, great video! You illustrated so clearly the dangers of tinkering.
May I humbly add....it can be equally dangerous to get custom fit ONLY once for a club? I just had an interesting experience on this topic.
I was recently fitted for a Titleist 818h2 hybrid. 3 weeks ago to be precise. On that day my ideal settings were B4 with a heavier weight than standard in the fade setting!
For those of you who don’t know, B4 for a lefty means:
1: flattest lie setting (1*flat)
2: lowest loft setting (-.1*)
3: most fade (open face)
I hit it well that day. I was SURE that we had gotten it right. I hit it great my first day of practice with it, too. But from that point forward it proved to be too extreme a setting. Everything went LEFT. So I put the club in A4 setting witch returns everything to standard except the loft. I did leave the heavier weight in the fade setting, though. I have hit it great ever since!
I guess the moral of this story is “make sure you are hitting the ball the way you typically would on the day of a fitting!”
😀😜
I have the JPX 900. I always play a draw, and my miss is an overdraw left. I put the weight into the "fade" setting to reduce my draw, not to actually hit a fade. This actually does help me avoid the big miss left quite a bit. The problem isn't that the weights don't work, it's the way the settings are labeled. My fade setting is actually just an anti-hook setting.
Hi James. Give it to your Mid Handicapper to see fade and draw settings. You are a Golf Professional which means you know what you are doing. Us mid handicappers think we know sometimes then other times lose the plot.
I was fitted for this driver. We went through multiple driver heads and shafts. The pro has mine set at draw. I do not miss to the right. This was the first time I’ve ever been properly fitted for a driver. It works for me.
As I understand it most Club Fitters will use a movable weight in the back of a driver when a Player has a regular point of mishit on the Driver face. However, if they are trying to influence a particular shot shape they will use the lie angle in the neck sleeve as this has much more influence on the shape of the shot. With a right-handed golfer, an upright lie angle will encourage a right to left flight and a flat lie will help promote a left to right flight.
But if the Golfer continuously puts a BAD strike on the Ball the Bad strike will override any Countermeasures taken by the Club Fitter.
Based on having watched multiple other reviews and fitting video's the movement of the weight doesn't necessarily add draw of fade bias, but it does move the weight to the side where the player tends to make impact which puts the CG closer to that impact point.
Your onto something there
I believe the draw fade adjustments are used in conjunction with the loft adjustments. For example, if you take the driver down one degree it opens the face. You could then use the draw adjustment to compensate if you don’t want an open face.
Great advice, get fit, throw key away! Then enjoy the game, the walk and fresh air.
Love that, your the first reviewer I've seen that has questioned the naming ie fade/ draw, maybe it should be a + and - and its marketed has face stabilizer.
Great concept
They do make a ton of difference. The sensors for flight path if you have 2 are maybe set 3 ft apart and on simulators it just can’t read fade and draws for most people. I have a terrible fade and when I go to simulators it’s always draws. The sensors can’t pick up for late fades or draws
Exactly
Thank you James! Late Bloomer to the game of golf, so don't put too much thought into this comment(s). I am of the opinion to keep the Draw/Fade in the neural position and enjoy the loft setting when the course calls for changes for this novice golfer, the Draw/Fade adjustments didn't seem to help my swing/lie. I bought and love my used Epic Driver (nothing to compare it to). More hits on the ball help's my game more than any setting. JS Thanks again for the video and have fun.
You also have to adjust the loft which also closes or opens the head at address.... while getting fit my fitter let me warm up with my old driver mentioned that my averages were so consistent that the fitting will go well... He said don’t change anything and let him work.... first he found the best loft after a few clicks... then slid the weight twice and I started blasting the ball to the sound of 30yds and a dispersion of 5-10yds which blew my mind..... took it to the course and now golf is enjoyable... I went back to see him 3weeks later for irons ...before high 80s low 90s...now high 70s low 80s... from time to time I’ll shoot 3or4 over when I’m on... I just got a proper putter fitting and again the change is amazing... moral of the story... Get lessons build a solid swing for base at the range... once your swing is workable and consistent then get fit.... put in the work and you’ll see the difference.... all within 1 year... next fitting is for a ball and the woods will be last because I’m ok with those for now...
Shouldn't the comparison be with neutral setting in the first place, to see the impact of change of weight?
And there is the option to change the head setting to draw. Like to see that one too!
i would like to see the test completed when you do not know what setting the weight is at. Knowing what the weight is set at can lead to knowing what you need to do to compensate. Also strike plays a major role in these results. And it does look like your left swings were more pulls than draws.
Just picked up a demo from Callaway Used Golf... Epic Flash Sub Zero Hzrdus Smoke 70 for $300. I don't think it had a single swing on it! Anyway, I had similar results. The draw setting just feels more solid, but I honestly pick up a few yards in neutral and see my forward dispersion tighten up a bit. Cheers from across the pond James.
Mark Crossfield talks a lot about this
His thoughts are that the weights are moving the CG around, there’s some tour pros with the weights set in non neutral positions
Really enjoying your videos!
Cheers mate :)
You're right. Rather than draw and fade; these settings affect the speed of the release or turnover. So if you turnover the club reasonably well on most shots and have a draw shape to your swing (James), the fade setting should have little effect or maybe just straighten a bit, but the draw setting should enhance the draw. I would suggest naming the settings "amplify vs delay" turnover. Hence if ones timing is very "neutral" this may lead to draw and fade; if not good amplify may lead to inconsistency only, where as delay may actually lead to better club face consistency.
Changing your grip position will have the biggest impact on draw vs straight vs fade.
I game the epic flash and have hit hundreds of balls with the weight set in both the fade and draw setting, I see very minimal if any difference (3 hcp). That being said it is my favourite driver I have ever owned.
Would be interesting to let someone set the club up for you but not tell you which setting its in
LOVE IT
Double blind remix get another 100k views, I just got an old r7 i'm excited to see how workable it is.
Absolutely. Double blind adjustment for each hit. 50 hits in each setting. Then we can talk.
Exactly, I think he subconsciously was altering his swing
In the old days, we took a little lead tape and adhered to the toe or heel for the same reason as the weight. I got fitted for one of these yesterday and he put the weight out toward fade then said to hit it as hard as I could which usually produces a snapper for my swing. It didn't snap. I pulled it but no snapper. Sold. I agree with you though. No question.
James I thought you would have started off in neutral to see how you were swinging, before moving to fade and draw for comparison? But yes, if you can't swing consistently and ball strike / club path is all over the place then these club adjustments could aid, OR make the shot worse..........and it will all be down to the luck of the strike. I would recommend improving strike and club path consistency before tinkering................but what do I know???
I warmed up in neutral mate but didn’t want the video to be overly long winded
@@JamesRobinsonGolf your a bit long winded to begin with! ⛳
walter a heller it’s all entertainment Walter
@@JamesRobinsonGolf I'm not complaining its more of a compliment! we love your videos. Carry on mate! ⛳
James just been fitted and i love it , to be fair im not a tinkerer , best driver this year in my opinion
Nice! I do like it a lot!
@@JamesRobinsonGolf its epic
At the end of the day the weights can only do two things. One provide momentum behind the point of impact, and second differences in the shaft rotation. No body has any doubt that having the weight directly inline with the impact position on the face makes the shot feel more solid. That's exactly what club makers learned about muscle-back irons versus cavity backs. So in regards to factor number 2, the shaft rotation, this is controlled by the torque characteristics of the shaft. With a high quality low torque shaft with torque in the region of 2.7 to 3.0 or so, the inertia of the swing far out weighs any rotation influences of a 10 or 12g weight. But with a higher torque shaft perhaps in the 3.7 to 5.0 region (Ladies, or soft regular) and a slower swing to suit the shaft.....that could be a different story, a 10 or 12g weight may have the ability to twist and overcome such a high torque (easy twist) shaft. Just a thought....and maybe worth testing the weights together with shafts of different torque characteristics??
I have the Epic Flash and frankly I saw no appreciable change in ball flight in either the draw or fade setting. On drivers I have had that had fixed front and rear weights where one can adjust heavier or the lighter weight both fore and aft I do see a difference in flight trajectory. Heavier weight in rear definitely launched higher than heavy weight in the front. This was from observation only as no shot tracker available to measure spin rate so you make an inference probably higher spin on rear weighting. This would be on the same loft setting for both.
Like the idea behind this test as it’s something we all wonder but to make it a valid one the strike and club path data needs to also be looked at in conjunction with the flight data
I read somewhere that for majority of people a draw biased driver would be beneficial, think it was an interview with a Ping engineer. Probably little bit harder to square the huge modern driver heads due to air resistance so a heel side weight will counter balance that somewhat. Based that I bought a draw biased driver (M4 D-Type) without fitting. The draw setting would mostly be beneficial to tour pros with robotic precision playing a course where slight fade would position them better for the approach. ...0.00000000001% of golfers.
The other thing to remember is by moving the weight in the back also moves the CG location in the club. By this unless you are striking the ball in line where the weight is on the face of the club then the performance will drop off also. I previously had an R15 with it in the draw setting and had predominately heel side strikes with still relatively good performance. New driver, no weight adjustments, striking more in the middle with some swing work.
I got a Epic Flash as i struggle with blocks to the right and it’s a draw bias driver like the Rogue, i get more clubhead speed and distance from it which is fantastic.
What were the settings for the loft adapter??? That would greatly influence your results as well.
Taylormade weight settings work, I think they are to be in conjunction with sleeve. Excuse my ignorance but if you grip the club to hard you can nigate the fade and draw settings. Also depending where the weight is should slow that part of the face from turning 🤷🏾♂️Idk what you think? I'm a 19hcp golfer, driving is not my issue. I've tinkered with the setting I see a difference but I'm usually str8 or slight cut on miss hit. Current weight setting 88g xtiff shaft TM M5 9.0 degree weight (1) back (1) draw. Launch angle on monitor is about 13-15 degree.
I have a 2017 M1 and have found you can definitely affect spin and forgiveness with the front to back weight track. I also found minimal draw/fade track adjustment seems to be more consistent. I'm not sure the expected physics of the adjustment works with the high handicap player. My theory is the high handicapper does not release the club. He 'death grips' the club and the face does not close as it should.
I think if you give this golfer a full fade setting, he sets up with face turned down or closed, and swings a club with more weight on the toe which pulls the hands away from the body. So if you set up with the toe of the club on the ball, the 2 inches the club is pulled away from the player means the ball is struck closer to the middle.
Now if the same player uses a full draw setting, this leaves the lighter toe open at impact because it didn't close, thus you get more push fades, or block the shot out to the right.
In this driver you can pull the low/high spin weight and place it in the draw/fade track so that you have more weight close to the face to lower spin, and more adjustable weight to dial in dispersion.
I honestly believe that it's more of a mental thing. Someone who isn't as good or intentionally hit a draw/fade when they chose too and, like myself, just naturally hits a push or a slice most times.. when my golf tutor adjusted some things on my driver and said that should fix it, and it did. But I found out towards the end of the season he didn't do anything. I believe it's like 'Jordan's Secret Stuff' in the classic Space Jam. But that's just me.
A good player will adjust to the settings and hit his shot shape after a few swings. That's why when testing clubs(Mizuno) they only ask you to make 3 swings.
Nice point mate
Good video, James! I always fiddle with the weights and lofts on a new driver (because they're there!) and then end up back at neutral and standard loft. I think most golfers will adjust subconsciously to any changes they make. But I'm not nearly consistent enough for it to make a difference. When I stop mucking about (as you Brits say) with the torque wrench and focus on path and rhythm...that's when I get the most out of equipment.
Interesting test there James....I have never owned a 'sliding weight' driver, as I thought that they are a bit of a gimmick, a placebo effect for the mind. How much could that small weight and track length be of great significance? The last driver I did purchase, and currently use is the Rogue Sub-zero. Now there is a club/tech that actually does perform how it is suppose to, when you move the heavier weight into the front thread....Dropped the spin rate down, and added length to the drive (just that a side-effect of dispersion might occur) I remember laughing when Mizuno came out with a driver 1 to 2 years ago, it had so many sliders and weights and looked ridiculous (did they actually do anything?). Never knew anyone that bought one. Keep up the good work mate.
Callaway believes in the technology since it is in the 2024 AI-Smoke drivers! There has to be some THERE there. I have the Epic Flash and use that weight adjustment to calm down my natural draw bias. It works!! If you want to revisit this, you should find players that over-draw and over-slice their drives. Those are the ones that can leverage this technology. Average players are not good enough to use this to "add" draw/fade to their game. You are a good player so you can compensate for the feel in the head. The weights that are included in the head are not the only ones that can be used. You can get alernate weights so that you can get heavier/lighter changes (10g - 17g) and you can also affect the swingweight with additional front weight changes (2g - 14g). To me the point you missed is how configurable these Epic Flash (aka Callaway like the 2023 Ai-Smoke) heads truly are. These are not simple off the shelf drivers anymore. Throw in that you can change the shaft at will and it is insane what can be done today as compared to 20+ years ago. It bugs me that the configurability is not advertised and pushed by the vendor. Its like they don't want to sell the extra weights. I also doubt those "fittings" include changes to the stock installed weights. Maybe we should go back to lead tape?
Instead of draw/fade, it should be a scale of the release (early/late). I think the real difference with the slide weight is the feel of the club face on the downswing.
Also, I just experimented putting the heavier weight from my old rogue into my flash subzero and I love it! Spin went from 2800 to 2600. Club feels like it releases itself nicely at the bottom. Try it out if you have old weights.
Thanks James, this is a video post I been wanting to see, I'm one who wants to fade the ball, aim left and swing hard then look up and see it fading back to center. I'm not sure this driver is going to do this. My Cobra Fly Z and Cobra f8 drivers in the straight position both fade and in the draw positions do influence to the left, so I will stick with what I have for now. Good video.
The weight setting seem to do the most for off center hits by minimizing the gear effect that causes a hit out of the toe "draw", and heel to "fade". So if you consistently hit out of the toe you would want the weight in the toe.
Hi James. Moving the weight moves the CG and that is directly related to where the ball NEEDS to hit the face. He’s a bit of a strange man but crossfield did a good video on this subject. Check it out for all the technical information relating to what I’ve just said about movement of CG and ball/face contact point.
I actually like the system. When you get fitted you leave the neck setting alone face open/closed and loft. Then you can adjust the weights to make minor changes before a round depending on your swing that day. Easier to use than say the M5 that makes it difficult to fine tune before a round.
The chipmunk music every British golf reviewer is using! :)
Actually works as I would expect, move the weight to the outside, should help the face close which would move the ball left!
Hi James, would you please do a test on whether the adjustable weights on the ping G410 work next? Very helpful video as always James
James, arn't these settings used to correct swings rather than set up positively for them? For example if I usually fade my shots then add some draw in the adjustment to correct? I have never actually understood all this, maybe now your all callaway, they could advise everyone via you about what the idea is?
I'm wondering how much your body subconsciously adjusts when you know its in a certain setting? It'd be interesting to see, if someone set it up for you, then handed it to you sole down, if that made any difference to the shot shape?
Good video. I’ve never found and differences in the weight changes either. Except for the low low speed on m3 But it feel like crap and goes every where I the real low spin setting. I believe the m4 and m6 is more forgiving for reg golfers is the area on the face just mire head there than others
iv only been play few months and used to slice quite bad, bought an f8 driver and still sliced, changed to draw settings and they go a lot straighter now
The biggest thing from previous models is the length of the track for the perimeter weighting. In previous models (Big Bertha, Great Big Bertha) the track was much longer. Even though this weight is heavier than those weights the positioning more towards the heel or the toe had a much larger impact on dispersion than the Epic Flash.
I still play the TM SLDR I put the wieght in the draw setting as my miss is heel/heavy fade the wieght in the heel gives me more forgiveness on miss strikes
Well I know it's not extreme since my natural slice is happy to come out when I swing badly on a draw setting lol
On a robot,the different setting will work,with a human it's all what I'd delivered at impact
I thought the weights help off centre hits? So if I'm hitting it in the heel then you put the weight in the heel👍🏻
yes
What does work is when you throw all tools at the task and then let them all contribute in their small additive way. Face address angle, shaft head lie angle (flat / upright), slidable weight, grip size. The other thing that I personally think is the most important is to have a committed shot shape for your driver and teed 3wood - i.e. pick either a Draw or a Fade and then setup everything (your mind, your swing & your club settings) to maximize your control over hitting this shot. It is not a surprise that you struggled with the Fade setting - in most of your videos you seem to be a couple yard draw person - thus I think the Draw setting reinforced this natural tendency and delivered for you a more consistent result - i.e. Draws - where as the Fade setting allowed you to swing easier (you then drew some and faded the first) - but squaring the club became a issue of consistency - i.e. your worst nightmare for the Driver. I have personally set up both my Driver & 3wood with Upright shaft settings as this helps be further commit to a Draw setup knowing that the club will be helping me - it is ofcourse easy to fade anything with swing path but a slight Draw enhanced setup for these two long clubs is mentally a better approach for me. I have tested clubs in an anti left setup - and it can work for sure - but if I was going to do that, I would commit to only Fading the Driver so that everything was aligned that way - like DJ
What makes a difference for me is, did I remember to put 3 beers in my bag cooler and is there a beverage cart on the course. These settings I think do not make a difference in my opinion. Use lead tape maybe
And 2 cigars
The loft adjustment (for me, at least) makes a significant difference in ball flight.
As for the weighting (fade or draw), I'm still not sure.
Nice video mate , I would like to see you do the test blind ! ie have someone set the weight setting for you and you not knowing if it’s in fade or draw bias .
Strike and path👍👍👍 good vid James as always ... Get yerself fitted 💪💪💪
If you don't hit in the direct middle of the club sweet spot. Unfortunately adjustable weights will not have the desired effect. It would be hard to calculate what the center of mass will do when you don't hit the exact same spot every time. I think most people will adjusting this on an individual basis, that is wherever the strike the ball on average the most and then adjusting to a their unique strike rather than what is ideal or in an instruction manual.
I’m off to the range and am going to try and see if I can feel (see?) any difference on my Epic.
Let me know your findings!
James Robinson Golf
Well! Very windy at the range, strongly right to left. I normally have the weight setting at neutral. Started there then moved to draw and finally fade. Swing was okish today so I don’t think that impacted my results.
Draw seemed to have little impact, and this is my normal shape when swinging well. I did manage to hold the ball up in the wind with the fade setting.
Not really convinced there was a huge difference and now put the weight back to neutral.
As a general comment I love the Epic Flash and wouldn’t change it for anything.
I would have liked to see you hit some some in standard before you dived into the other settings
Common comment and noted for next time mate 👍🏼⛳️
I’ve always found the label to be misleading. As if, set it to fade if that is your miss and set to draw if that is your miss. In my titleist fairway wood I use the fade setting in the weight to feel the toe more and allow me to get the toe around more and draw. I think of them like a putter weighting. No one has heel weighted putter to help you close the face at impact, seems it should be the same for all clubs
Would be interesting to see what the combo of the weight and loft sleeve do together? Another nice vid thanks.
I have 7 rounds in with my Epic Flash. I was fitted by a pro and the first 4 rounds I hit the the driver well.... then one bad round and the wrench came out. Ugh.... I went to a draw bias and had four bad driving rounds. I have set it back to the original setting and improved. Good advice: lose the wrench.
Thanks for doing this video, I’ve had my epic flash for quite a few years and love it. I’ve played with it in the draw position and the neutral position and for the most part I stay in the neutral position. But I just picked up a Callaway paradigm so now it’s time to compare them both in neutral and then when I settle on one start playing around with draw versus fade versus neutral. I’m curious to know how it will come out? And which grouping might stay tighter?
I think it’s all based on strike location , I find they don’t work when I adjust , but does center your strike , so maybe company’s should not put draw and fade on them, but I do like the adjustable rails 😊
Draw and fade is just PR. Doesnt mean it does nothing, it slightly moves the CG, but forget fade and draw. Personally i have never ever changed a setting on my driver, i get something that works and then its my job to keep my swing in shape enough to keep it working.
No comparison with the neutral setting? Why not? - not really a test then.
The only thing i would add to it is one more weight so people could stick one weight in the draw and fade settings.
James, I thought the same thing on these new drivers when they moved the weight all the way to the back. I thought, how’s that going to help? Test an old SLDR where the weight is the front behind the face. I bet it will have more effect there than in the rear.
When this moveable weight tech was first introduced, we were told that the draw setting, with more weight in the heel would make it easier to release the club head, and eliminate a slice. Vice-versa for the weight placed in the toe. 15 years later, and I think this premise is nonsense, based on my ability to slice the crap out of ANY club, regardless of where the weight is. I even went through the trouble of purchasing weights outside the range of those sold by the manufacturers in their "weight kits," via EBAY. Putting an even heavier weight in the heel didn't make the club draw, it just made it heavier. I agree with those who say that moving those weights simply SLIGHTLY moves the CG from one side or the other, and can help a little with off-center hits on the side, heel or toe, where you tend to miss with your strike.
I wonder if the settings are: if you are drawing the ball you shift the weight to draw to straighten it out and vice versa? Bizarre but based on your test it seems so. Your swing is good enough that I don't think the mixed results were on you. So it really makes me wonder if there isn't some sort of language issue more than technology issue.
At any rate this club is just awesome I can hit mine over 300 yards and haven't hit it that far in 15 years so... wow. In fact it's so long it's actually messing me up a little because I'm in yardages that can be difficult for me. I need to move back a tee I guess.
Could be a gimmick to draw in customers, and fade them from their $.
The adjustments need to be up the front toe or heel try lead tape that will prove where the weights need to be
This might not make sense but, I think this test would be better if: You tried to hit Draws/Fades instead of trying to hit straight. In other words. Set the club neutral, try to hit fades. Then set the club to fade and try to hit fades. Then set to draw and try to hit fades. Lots of moving parts in a golf swing, not to mention alignment, hard to take the human part of the equation out without taking out the human. I'd be interested in knowing how much weight difference there is from heel to toe at each extreme position. My guess is that the swing speed has a lot to do with how much affect the weight will have but, that the swing itself has more to do with the result than the weight does. But hey, whatever the marketers can tell someone to get them to buy a $400 golf club is fair game I suppose. After all, we have no problem spending $200 for a putter.
Like it mate!
... Could just call it “CG Heel” and “CG Toe”. Then the weight just mirrors the location you tend to have contact the face. I’ve never had a weighted driver that changed the shape all that much. I find it far more useful to get the weight behind where I strike the face.
I think we have to remember that the Flash is a draw bias club vs a sub zero which is a fade bias club so I would think that way before moving the weight a hair
I appreciate your energy and reviews....but by chance am I mistaken, for it appears what you said "fade first" then a "draw setting" second; however, it appears that what you said was the opposite of what you did. It appears you had the draw setting first (the weight was at the toe side) even though you stated it was on the fade setting. Then on the second test you had the weight on the heel side (which I thought was actually a fade setting) even though you stated it was on the draw setting. I guess I am going crazy.
It's a mental game
Here's a video you should make compare a right handed shaft Sleeve against again left handed Sleeve and see the difference...
Most fitters claim a left handed sleeve flattens the head lie angle which they claim will change ball flight left to right.....
I'm sure your subscribers would like to see that video
It's literally a right handed backwards. The paint is in different spots
@@matthewderidder286
Not according to TXG it's not
Yeah a few right, a few left, but did you keep it in the fairway?
If it's good enough technology to pull right and left hits back in toward the middle a little then that's what most amateur players would like
Did you do a different video with the slider in the neutral position?
Unfortunately it only changes CG.
I wish they wouldn't try and sell us on to which way the ball flight would go. If you hit the club more in the heal then, put the weight in the heal. If you hit more in the toe then, put the weight in the toe. That's the best way to get the most out of any club in my opinion.
Logically speaking, we would think heavier in the heal would allow the toe to urn over faster but, if you hit it towards the toe with a weaker strength grip, it would cause it to go right plus lose so much distance because the CG is now in the wrong place.
I feel heavier in the toe could cause opposite effects. It might make the toe turn over faster by getting the weight moving with mass and burning the looks, I might be correct.
Strike and especially path, dictate everything.
Think there was a TXG video where of you hit it toe side, weight in toe would help stabilise the club face.
My question is are you making an actual attempt to fade it with your swing more upright , high handed backswing and finish?
Nope
For me the sliding weight simply resulted in my strike tracking where the weight was set - so the draw setting gave me heel strikes (and a fade!).
Again for me the far better adjustment was the hosel sleeve. I always felt me Epic (not Flash) driver sat slightly open at address, moving the hosel into draw setting meant, to my eye, the driver sat square at address. Net result is a ball flight that is much less likely to leak right - OK off the planet right!
I think strike overrides driver setting. Strike location is king
So you're an over the top fader of the ball, perhaps got some back problems stopping you turning properly causing this swing type. Last thing you need is a square face hitting the ball in the left rough. I think moveable weights are only useful for someone who delivers the club consistantly in the first place who can then eliminate one side of the golf course.
I’ve had so much difficulty keeping the ball straight on an Epic Driver or doing what you want it to do, must get fitted for correct shaft - lie - weights
I had the epic and when I moved the weight I noticed that the feel of the club at impact changed not the flight direction. When I put it in fade the club felt off and also when in full draw. Half way between neutral and draw felt the best. Left it there. I think it should be called a feelometer
I had a similar experience w/the Mizuno ST190 in Full fade weighting..
Just been to Scottish golf show! STILL hate the Ping, Loved the Callaway, Titleist TS3, Cobra F9, need to try M5/6 then get properly fitted!
Some clubs have the fade and draw setting in the shaft. Test those. Im 4 years late.😅
I never noticed any consistency in the settings. It was mostly how I was swinging that day, which we all know our swings vary from day to day. I sold it and bought a Ping G400 Max driver, with no adjustable settings for fade or draw. And why would I need them on that club when 99% of my drives with it go straight anyway? :-)
It seems to me almost backwards. I know the physics is that the heavier part of the club would be slower, but to me having more weight in the heel (draw) wouldn’t allow the toe to slam shut as fast. Since the toe is traveling faster anyway since you roll your hands and forearms that the toe weight in the “fade” setting might make it do the opposite.
It’s all about the weight relative to the shaft, not the club head.
Those settings should 💯 something else. Other drivers have the setting labeled the opposite of this one. It's not always about face angle at impact but strike location. Some people just need extra support on one side or the other to help fight gearing that is the opposite of what they would use based on their shape.
I don’t like Adj weighted drivers. If you know the face sends it and the path bends it. Know what your misses are and fix them. Weighted forces a different swing instead of doing it naturally.
A. It changes center of gravity, B. We used to use lead tape. C. This works if you add enough weight. D. The manufactures obviously knows it works. Why is this so hard to understand?