BEST DRIVER SETTINGS TO FIX YOUR SLICE
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- Опубликовано: 10 май 2022
- This video shows you four different adjustments you can make on your driver to help reduce or eliminate your slice.
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AJ, I appreciate your knowledge and sharing of proper adjustments, effects and potential issues (LIE ANGLES). I’ve been struggling with my 2018 Rogue bought new in 2020. So after changing the lofts etc to counteract inconsistencies with fades, I finally figured the problem. It was mostly me. Imagine that., HaHa. Well I was letting my wrist hinge too much causing timing issues to close the face. So at times I would loose the ball with a high shot to the right ! Huge slice. So I keep the wrists neutral and now have hit more fairways and farther. I got so confident I dropped the loft 1 degree to 9.5 with standard setting on adapter. So now I have about four degrees difference between driver and fairway woods. Gained some distance and the ball flight is a bit lower trajectory. Finally have control again. Last round played yesterday I hit 83% of fairways. Huge improvement. I enjoy your channel.
I was a very bad slicer, after seeing how to adjust my Cleveland Launcher to 12 degreesI have to say,I now have a very slight slice and I hit the ball farther than ever before. I just aim to my left and the ball "draws" to the center. that one adjustment has made the way I swing the club very workable. I played 2 rounds of golf and I have NEVER hit my drives that consistent in the fairway before the adjustment. Thanks!
Great post!! I am a golf lover but also a golf moron. I had no idea what any of these adjustments were for. Now I do and I can try to practice with these different phases of this club.
Wow. I don't think you could have possibly explained that any clearer, seriously. I'm going through the driver loft sleeve rabbit hole to find out how to better control my fade/slice and your explanation helped tremendously.
So thankful I watched your video. I’m a beginner golfer . I have starter set of clubs and in general they are great for me. Everything but the driver . I just sliced it so much every time .
After watching this it got me curious about upgrading . I just happen to find a used driver cheap with the fade - draw adjustment. Wow … it really worked . First 5 hits were dead center . I would do that 1-15 with the prior driver .
Thank you so much
Great explanation, thanks. I have MizunoST200g, 9 degree loft. Adjusted it to upright setting, swapped out 2x7g weights for 9g at heel and 5g at toe, moved right back. Am now getting faster swing speed, more consistent contact with reduced tendency for out to in swing.
I didn't understand loft until you explained it. Thanks for another great video!
The very best explanation on the internet. I didn’t realize that Ping has a different lie setup!
Great video! Just got fitted for a stealth and can’t to take advantage of all the adjustment. Thanks for making this video
You explained it very well,,, I’ve been playing since 1966,,, junior golf many other lessons,,, You are a very smart man about golf
Thank you also,,,, an old Nam Veteran.
Thank you I am now not as intimidated as I was by the adjustments. I have a Callaway and I was unsure exactly what all I was changing. Very interesting.
I so needed this I've been correcting without understanding what I was doing.
This is why you can hit 3 wood straighter then your driver (more loft) ,but what worked for me was changing a 46 into 44 inch shaft . (most fitters will not do this ,because they want to sell you a new shaft)...having the right length of shafts all the way through the bag is key to better golf.
Gave me a brand new insight. Thank you.
Thank you, great explanation!
Great Video AJ
Awesome video and thank you.
So loft and weight adjustment matters much more than lie angle.
I readjusted my stealth 2 down to 6* and my steath plus 3 wood down to 11.5* i am thinking of adjusting my 5,7,9 woods.
Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks. Really informative. I’ve just bought a new cobra driver and I’m struggling with slice
My Cobra sat pretty open in the standard setup and the loft was a degree lower than the stated loft. Lofted up a degree to get it back to square with more loft.
Thank you for another great video AJ, very much appreciated as always. I used to hit a Cleveland XL Launcher @ 10.5º and never had a problem with slicing. Got fitted into a SIM2 Max @ 9º last year and have been fighting the slice all season. I am thinking of trying to loft up to 10.5 to see if that increase, and subsequent face closure, will help. I was worried about the change to lie angle, but after watching your video feel like that won't be an issue. Thanks again!
My SIM is the same. Looks open at address. I have 10.5° head lofted up to 12. Seems to help with my slice.
My older M2 at 10.5 looks not as open at address compared to Sim or Sim 2. In my assessment.
Cheers.
Callaway and Cobra have both helped with my slice.
How have I only just found this channel 😮
Cobra owes you a check 😂 just got the ltdx and they don’t even explain it this well on their site. Also there are a lot of people online giving conflicting info as “advice”. Thank you!!
Lol I asked my friend which way to move my slider since I tend to miss right and he tells me to adjust slider to fade. I’m adjusting this tomorrow and it I’m hitting it good I’m literally slapping him. Thanks for the video tho lol 😂
Really good. Thank you
Great video and explanation! Let me see if I understand. I am a senior with a (lefty) TM Stealth 2 Plus 9 degree driver. I have it set 1 "notch: towards "higher" which makes it 9.75 degrees. Because I can't get heavier after-market back weights (they only make them for righties) I added 6 gms of lead tape turning the 15 gm back weight into 21 gms. I moved the sliding weight all the way to the "draw" position and added 4 gms of lead tape to that increasing it from a 15 gm slider to a 19 gm slider. This has minimized my fade (and occasional slice). I don't want to increase the loft anymore (next step is 10.5 degrees) as I then hit it TOO high relative to the distance I drive and get hardly any roll out. If I had my shaft in the "std" position and rotated in 180 degrees it would be in the "std. upright" position. If I went 1 "notch" towards "higher" from there it would be in the 9.75 degree upright position. If I understood your video correctly, this would give me an additional (minor) "anti-slice" factor to my set-up. Did I get that right? Thanks!
The upright lie will give you a bit more slice prevention but it is very small.
It’s different for me. I was hitting a slice, I found putting the heavier weight in the front, and turn down the loft I hit a fade but it does make me hook the ball if I go for a draw. I’m about to buy 2 heavier weights I’m at a 14 and a 2g I think I’m get 2 16gs and just be balanced
Generally increasing the moi by moving the weight back also increases the spin. Generally spin is spin whether backspin or side spin. Correct? would love to see a review of the ping sft, why is it the best draw bias head or the mobile club maker makes you a driver to fight the slice. Enjoy your content
I think a more stable head is in general going to be more beneficial to a slicer so the weight back will help with that. Of course it won’t be the case for everyone though.
Love the videos
Thank you!
Am I thinking correctly? If the problem is more push rather than slice, lofting up and to a lesser extent draw hosel setting should help, but leave the slider neutral as that has a greater affect on the COG, therefore spin. Also reducing slider weight should reduce spin like moving weight forward (if the new swing weight is controllable-if not add lead tape toward the face.) Thanks for your thoughtful responses and videos.
Great insight into adjustments on drivers ..I have a Callaway draw biased adjustable driver . I struggle with bad fades to ugly slices . I've messed around with adjustments but never taken the draw adjustment off. I'm now going to knock it up to 11.5 degrees and take draw off so it's in standard or neutral position.. with your expert knowledge what drivers out there would you recommend for a problem like mine . I know their is no such thing as a driver that will instantly stop you slicing but I believe their is one out there somewhere that will help .
Or perhaps is it best to get let's say an 11.5 or 12 degree driver with no adjustments ar all ? Cheers for the advice.
Some of the Callaway Big Bertha drivers are about as much of a fade fighter as you can get. Also something like the Cleveland Launcher sits more closed at address. Any driver you can add heel weight to will also help the situation, (Callaway, Cobra) to name two.
Question; do you a think draw bias driver and a slice swing can create more slice spin ?
I live in South America so not able to get fitted. I am 5'11" without shoes and wrist to floor with shoes on is 37.5 inches. When I look online it shows anywhere from 1 and up to 4 over on lie angle I should be using. Any thought?
Awesome explanation. I just found your channel. New subscriber.
I have a Cobra F7 with three weight positions. I currently have the 12g in the draw or heel position. 10.5D loft. I’m still struggling to control my slice. Would it help me to get another 6g or 12g weight and put that in the back position along side the other 12g weight? Or would that cancel out the heel weighted effect.
Cheers
It might help but it would likely be from the change in swing weight. Of course it might also make it worse. Hard to know what a swing weight change will do to a particular golfer until you try it out.
SO if I play my driver 1 inch or more shorter that opens the face and setting my callaway hosel to "Draw" which bring it make towards "Netrual"
Hey AJ! Let me play devils advocate for a second. This is probably just a coincidence because driver weights are so small.. but do you ever see people that will subconsciously follow/hunt the CG of the driver..So example- I have a slight fade, if I move my weight more heel my strike point actually moves more heel as well. If I move the weight more toe my strike point moves more toe. So for me it’s opposite only because of gear affect. I’m sure this is just me and a coincidence but I thought I would run it by you and get your thoughts. Hopefully that made sense. Thanks for the wonderful content!
Yes. Totally get that. Everything I mentioned here with weight are for sure generalities. I know some golfers who find it easier to close the club face with extra weight on the toe because they can feel it so obviously compared to neutral or heel weighting.
General rules won't work for everyone. Always exceptions.
Hi love your videos. I've got a 9 degree cobra LTD x and I tend to fade and sometimes slice. I hit it quite high too so I was wondering if I set it to a lower degree of 8 to reduce the slice and have it in the draw setting (-1d) will that help with the draw and reduce my height but obviously lowering the loft increases the openess of the face or do I add loft to 10 degrees and set it to the draw (+1d) setting as increasing the loft closes the face but then I'm worried that I will gain even more height. Any thoughts would be great. Rob. London UK.
The draw setting is going to have a very small influence. Lowering the loft will make that face want to fall further open so just make sure you square it with your hands during setup.
This may be crazy but you could try to increase club loft and move ball back in your stance. Im playing withy driver as well.
I put my maltby ke4 from a 9.5 to 10 degree up right setting. This change helped alicing but moving the ball back from left heel to left chest helped lower ball flight and get distance back.
I was told decreasing loft adds more spin on the ball.
@@chriswood5510 I don’t know about delofting adding more spin. Take your lower lofted irons for example less spin but more distance. Less groves for it to run up on I would assume
Great video! Do you have any advice for where to add lead tape to accomplish the same goal? Am I putting it far back on the heel side? Or all on the heel side closer to the hosel?
I would start out with it on the back but favoring the heel side. Good thing about the tape is you can try it, see what happens, then move or add more and repeat until you get the desired result.
@@EFGMC Thanks so much for the reply! In a driver fitting, I seem to be a player that produces too much launch and spin, and was suggested to move into the regular Sim2 head and a lower launching shaft like the Hzrdous Smoke Black RDX or Aldila Rogue Silver. So far both shafts are great...favoring the Alidla at the moment, but my miss is usually to hit it in the heel, producing the bad gear effect that you stated. So I've been standing a bit further away and I have been hitting it more towards the toe/center of the face..but everyonce in a while I'll catch it in the heel. By adding the tape far back and heel side, I'll essentially be moving the MOI toward the heel like you suggested? Should I start with 1" or 2" strips. First time user of lead tape. Thanks again for the great content for the gear heads who want to take advantage of dialing it in!
@@mlagatic Go 2 inch, most people won't notice 1. Then just start stacking them on top of each other.
@@EFGMC AJ just want to say thanks! I put 3 inch long strips low and back on the driver and wow what a difference! I’ve got a nice little consistent cut now and it’s not slicing as bad. Thanks again for the great content and looking forward to more!!
@@mlagatic Glad you found a setup that worked. No substitute for trial and error.
You addressed the sleave face angle and lie but what about the plus or minus spin? Does plus or minus spin induce a fade or a draw I don't understand the spin element and I cannot find on the tuning manual. Is plus spin fade in lower, and draw spin when higher, or just loft spin?
What driver model are you referring to?
i wish you could have went over ball flight or and performance diff would could possibly see with adding tape
Once I have the new fitting studio set up at Elite Fit Golf, I will revisit some of these topics including this one.
Intersting....SOOOO, on my PXG 811 Proto driver there are 4 weight settings front/back; Heel/toe. SO more weight in the back and toe???. Id rather move the weights around then mess with the hosel settings.
Back and heel to reduce a slice in general. There are some golfers however who might benefit from more weight out on the toe, thereby requiring them to really try to square the face. However the majority will be better off with heel weighting.
What about weight change? Example with ltdx it come with 10/3g. What if you change to 12/3 or 14/3? Would that help more stable face to help fight a 5-10yd fade?
That little weight change is going to have almost no affect. Need much more weight to see any measurable difference.
I've always been told that slice is caused by the club face being open at impact and I understand how moving weight towards the heel can help square the club face at impact. But from what you're saying here, a slightly open club face will cause draw gear effect spin which seems a bit counter-intuituve. Am i understanding this correctly?
I have a Cobra F-9 King driver 10.5, What hosel settings will help cure my slice? Thank You
The highest loft setting will give the most help.
Hello, very interesting. The question I have is that on the Callaway Big Bertha 2021, Callaway was claiming a change of strategy to handle slice which was to bring weight closer to the face (i.e. the opposite of most recommendation - including your) on the premise that it will reduce spin and this will also reduce side spin which results in slice. What is your take on this? Thanks.
You could try it and see what happens. Whenever you move the weight more forward, you loose stability in the head so miss hits will be more exaggerated.
I thought there was a 2 to 1 ratio when you change the loft and the face closing. If you look at the Taylormade adjustment chart every degree of increased loft results in a 2 degree closure. Is that just for taylormade?
It's going to depend on the driver sole design and how the contact point moves in relation to the center of gravity.
Taylormade does say 4 degrees, though personally I think it's a bit less.
Nice explanation. So, if you add lots of tip weight for whatever reason, that should give you a draw bias because of the gear effect from moving the center of gravity toward the heel?
Not exactly. The weight in the shaft tip doesn't have the same impact that it does on the actual head. I think???
This would be a good experiment. Need to think about how to set that up.
Of course it's hard to add much tip weight to a graphite shaft so would need to consider that as well. The graphite stem weights are never my favorite.
@@EFGMC
Thanks. I'll stay tuned.
I never used a tip weight before. In changing my 48" .335 driver shaft to a five wood it needed quite a bit weight to get to D3. Not being able find one heavy enough I made one from a 20d nail. I chucked it up it in a drill and turned the head down against a grinding wheel so it was smaller the tip o.d.
I forget what I cut it too but remember it was 14g
@@billchuplis9460
I'm sort of confused as to what exactly you were doing.
I recycled a 48" .335 driver shaft with a 65g midsize grip to use with a Malby five wood head. Not being able to locate a heavy tip weight for a decent price I made my own. 14g is a lot for a fiberglass shaft but seemed like an inexpensive way to experiment.
Sim2max d driver, would upright lie or adding two degrees of loft , which one causes more draw ?
Max lofting will probably help more as it increase the lie angle 2 degrees and causes the head to naturally sit more closed. The lie angle change in a driver has very little effect by itself because of the almost flat face (9 degree for example). Even the max lie change of 4 degrees only changes the face angle by 1/4 degree.
AJ, a question for you regarding lie angle. Since it doesn't affect spin direction (much) would it be better to mirror the lie angle of your irons to maximize impact location and direction? I am a 1 degree flat iron player but have put my Callaway Epic Flask SZ in a draw hozzle setting which as you describe as a more upright setting. And...follow-on does the tee negate the flat vs upright discussion? I hit my driver pretty well and can shape it when concentrating hard on it but my normal miss is more of a fade (rarely a slice). I also have the slider in the heel already.
Don't assume that all your clubs should have the same generic lie setting. Different clubs have different starting lie angles. Once you factor in length and weight, you may not be 1 degree flat across the board.
I don't think I would change the driver setting as it sounds like the right place assuming the loft is correct.
It makes a small difference at best but might as well have it set to benefit you.
As for the other question, no, the tee does not matter. The true goal of lie angles is not about turf interaction (except maybe with wedges). It's all about getting the face angle correct at impact.
I draw/hook the ball a lot. What makes a bigger change? The slider weight to the toe or lowering the loft to change the face angle? What setting would you change first?
If you fight a big hook, I would just go ahead and do both. Then you can decide if you need to move one back for instance if the loft is now too low for your swing.
@@EFGMC which change is mode effective? Just for my information… slider or loft change?
@@rcadelina Probably slider.
Not sure if you can help but I have an ST-X Mizuno 10.5 driver and would like maximum draw bias. What setting would you recommend maximize against slice. Thanks
Set the loft as high as possible, 12.5 in order to allow the face to fall more closed at address. Make sure when you swing, keep that face closed at set up.
Thankyou
Hi I have a paradym driver the hotel setting is draw and the Slidable weight is set to draw closer to the toe. Do you recommend the weight set to fade weight closer to the heel. Thanks
Are you wanting to have maximum draw help? If so you should put the slider all the way to draw and also loft up the driver loft. The draw hosel setting does very little by itself.
What impact would changing the lie have on swing weight? The flatter the club, the heavier the swing weight, correct? Therefore, having a more upright setting would make it a lighter swing weight; making it easier to turn the club head over and creating a draw. Is that logic correct?
Yes, that is correct for swing weight but the change is pretty small. Also I think it gets more complicated because when you flatten the setting, you move the CG more in line with the shaft while the upright setting moves it further away. Would be sort of like a face balanced vs toe hang putter in the resulting feel, again still being a very small change in feel.
Hey.
I’m using 10.5 degree callaway td ls.
I have a 3-4 down AOA.
No matter how many lessons or practice, I can’t hit up on driver. I play irons great…
Sooo
If I wanna get my spin down with callaway, should I bring loft down to 9.5? And will have help draw a little? Or bringing loft down open face? U said in video, as soon as u adjust hozzle, it closes face.
Or should I bring down loft and set to D?
Or add loft, but will that increase my spin rate??
I have same swing as when I was young and always played low lofted drivers like 8-9 degrees and smashed it straight.
Like I remember using 983k for years and never had this problem.
Thanks man
Lowering the loft will open the face more if that is a concern. Best way to lower spin more on your current driver would be to focus on making contact higher on the face and utilizing more vertical gear effect. That said I would play around with the loft a bit and just see what happens. It's not a permanent change so no harm in heading out to the range for an hour and trying different setups.
@@EFGMC thanks, exactly what I’m thinking…
5:30am the morning before playing 36 holes. Today should go really well.
Did it?
@@mitchellm7464 actually did. It was 97° here though (in Philly) so that was the biggest obstacle.
How do you feel about adding lead weight to the club
Big fan of lead tape. Use it and if you don't like the results, just peel it back off.
This is slightly off topic. Is there an alignment with a shaft spine that is better for a draw or is it best just to align it at the 9:00 or 3:00 setting?
What is best is to have a shaft with good radial consistency so you don't even need to think about any spine. That is the goal. Any shaft with a significant spine belongs in the trash.
@@EFGMC Can you put those shafts in my trash please? I align the spines at 6:00 to minimize club droop. Amazing results. So much more consistent with mid and long irons and especially good with driver, woods, hybrids.
I don’t understand if you’re hitting a slice would you put a setting that causes more spin. Why you’d put a setting that’s more spin in general. Maybe I’m misunderstanding but if I’m massively offline I’ve got massive spin? I’ve always heard the weight more forward it reduces spin.
Weight forward does drop spin assuming impact location does not change. Weight back makes the head more stable so that if you miss the center, it's less punishing. Reducing both hooks or slices.
Hi Aj, I have a Paradym 10.5 driver. been struggling recently with slicing. Can you give me a setting to try to help me correct the slicing.
Set it to the highest loft option. That will help close the face more at setup and hopefully maintain more of that angle at impact.
I asked a question, kindly respond
I took the sliding weight out of a stealth plus driver and now I can't get it back in. How do you do that?
One side of the track should have a small recess where you can start the slider weight, then you can slide it over wherever you want it.
@@EFGMC Thanks
Almost makes you miss persimmon heads. Wanna hit a draw? Rotate the shaft a smidge to the left and close your stance line a bit. Wanna hit a fade? Rotate the shaft a smidge to the right and open your stance a bit.
Get the right shaft flex and loft appropriate to your club head speed. Work on the feel that comes from reasonably good mechanics and you don't have to ask your club to make up for your wonky swing. And yes, for most of us that's the quest of a lifetime.
i play Cleveland Launcher, it's all on me...
Awesome post, but what if you hook? Not a “big draw” but a BIG HOOK?
Would still recommend moving as much weight back away from the face as possible. After that, just reverse what I discuss here. Move weight out to toe, loft down. Again would not even worry about the lie because it makes such a small difference.
@@EFGMC interesting. Thanks for the recommendations. Love the channel. Would it just be coincidence that my 4 wood is 1* up and I can hit it straight as an arrow but my driver isn’t and it’s left? Also my irons are 2* up and I hit EVERYTHING off the toe left.
@@Syklopz Probably not the lie angle factoring in with the woods. Could be with the irons, but could also be length, static weight, swing weight. Hard to say without seeing the swing and the clubs in question.
@@EFGMC Irons: sub70 699s w/Project X 5.5 graphite shafts +1” (I’m 6’2”). Driver is also Sub70, 849 same shaft standard length, 4 wood also Sub70 (it’s a theme) +1inch but set to +1* same PX 5.5 shaft.
All have lamkin crossline midsize grips.
@@Syklopz Have you checked all the swing weights? That might be a place to start especially with the longer lengths.
The cure for excess is excess. The cure for famine is famine. The 'best' way to 'cure' a slice is to set up a club for maximum fade and then spend thirty minutes on the range and learn to hook the driver. After much experience helping higher handicap golfers, almost all of whom slice, nothing remotely helps them learn faster than forcing them to figure out how to hit a low forty-yard curving hook - and it usually only takes about twenty minutes - or there's the Driver sleeve. Nice video
I can see that.
Good info, however the best way to fix your slice is to fix your swing.
Ping sft poor don’t believe the hype 12handicap golfer the spin will kill you i play 10.5 have turn it up to plus for it to close slightly trust me no difference between G425 and G430 the max isn’t much better
Good info but you seem to make general assumptions that everybody needs weight back and in the heel. Not everybody needs that if they hit the ball with excess spin or hook the ball. For years I fought a snap hook (didn’t spin the ball enough). I went with a higher loft head and then set it to lower to open the face and put the weight In the toe to keep the head from over rotating.
I totally agree. This video was specifically for people who slice the ball. Some of these tips would be completely wrong if you fight a hook.
What is the title of this video?
You give ok advice but your way of doing so is boring.
Any possibility you cld tell me just exactly what setting I need for my Stealth 2 Plus Driver LEFTY. ?! Like straight up just what setting to help my slice lol. I cnt figure it out and it's driving me nucking futs!!!! Lol
Loft up to max amount. That will help close the face and give a slightly more upright lie angle. That's as much as the driver settings can do.
After that, might want to try choking down an inch on the shaft and see if that helps.