2001 3500 CHEVY DURAMAX DUALLY This procedure worked. Prior to soldering I tested all contact points for continuity (where applicable) and visually inspected soldier joints for obvious cracks= none. I was not Convinced it would work but heated and soldiered each pin as shown in video. Afterwards, I cleaned the Acid FLUX of the board with alcohol and pressurized air. Reinstalled and = NO MORE ABS LIGHT!!! ABS brakes work AS DESIGNED.
@@daviddurden9327 Yes, you should drain the fluid out of the master cylinder and drain all calipers, or it will all leak out when you remove the ABS module
Super video. I have this problem with my S-10. While "dry" or "cold" solder joints are always a problem with electronics, there is another malfunction that fouls up a module like this: bad electrolytic capacitors. These components are found in nearly anything electronic and deteriorate with age, especially when subjected to the high stress environment that a vehicle is exposed to. I would have liked to see the underside of that PCB and these parts replaced. Considering the vintage of the vehicles that many posters in here are talking about, these sort of failures are definite possibilities. There are videos on y-t that even show these parts being replaced on ECMs. ABS modules would be no different.
2000 GMC 2500 suddenly ABS continuously running even with the key off. No OBD codes shown. Had to pull the ABS fuse. This video was a big help to remove module and try to fix it. But soldering the module board as described didn't fix it. Maybe a stuck relay on the bottom of the board?? Sent it to the "Speedometer Repair Guy". 3 days shipping each way and 1 day to rebuild. Money well spent. Fixed.
Great video but i wished you showed or put a link to the cleaner, you were using along with that paste you put on those points you had scraped off. Im kinda pissed at myself for not doing this before putting a whole new/used ABS valve and module. After putting it in, things were great. No lights. Put the truck on the road, now i have lights again
wow, good job! you've got your temperature setting just right on that iron! It's critical to getting a fast smooth flow like you have! the right solder too. I like it. I'd buy one you'd repaired!! Thanks
Ugh, another no talk video. It is nice for us ,never done this before, gius to be able to have things explained while the tutoring is going on. Like what you are using, or why you use this or that, and what is it you are doing while doing it. Toungius making videos think everything is a no brainer if we just watch,, it or all of it is. So, what dealer did you use? What was it you brushed on to clean the pink things, what are the pink things,, looks like grease you put back on,, why and what grease?? What was is you put on everything before you soldered the joints, and is there an special kind?? Ugh, killing me.
The pink stuff is thermal transfer compound, just use thermal paste to replace it. Looks like he used denatured alcohol to clean it off, you can use 91% rubbing alcohol instead. The stuff he brushed onto the solder joints is solder flux.
Remove cover, apply solder flux (or use flux core solder/ rosin core solder), flow extra solder down the pins to repair connections between layers of the boards, apply new thermal paste, apply gasket sealant, press cover back on, get to know Jesus.
So, how about an intermittent C0110 ABS code? My 2006 Silverado 1500 has that code that means "pump circuit malfunction." I have heard and read 50/50 chance of either the ABS computer module or a short somewhere in the electrical of the pump motor. Unfortunately, you cannot buy a new pump assembly anymore as GM discontinued all ABS system parts except the wheel sensors and researching online has found it be impossible to find a new old stock one. You can buy used from a junkyard, but how long will they really last? I did find a company from California that will rebuild and rewind the electrical motor of the pump assembly for $340. They said from what they have seen it is common for the electrical motor to go bad in those pump assemblies.
Hi there, Thank for good video. Is it possible to operate ABS module with only one speed sensor? Actually, I am a student and want to present the ABS operation with single tire and break assembly using single speed sensor.
Dang I did this and my abs light went off but not my check brake light. Could it be from a solder that didn’t take? I checked brake fluid levels and they are fine. The check brake light came on the same time my abs did.
For me I would want to remove the old solder that was worn out over time And cracks Thus the reason it was sent out to be fixed The video shows just heating and blending in new solder ...Also GM ABS and clusters used Flux Rosin Core Tin When silver solder is longer lasting And far less prone to cracking
Can you remove the electrical part of the ABS module without removing the ABS motor and lines? I do not want to remove the lines and motor. And is that dielectric grease you brushing on the board towards the end?
So, I just tried this and two pins sank into the circuit board. The solder is still connected to them when you peak underneath. Possible that it’ll still work? 🤷♂️
@@khateramitchell8091 no. I put it back together and reinstalled. It didn’t fix the issue. However, I’m not sure that it’s the only problem. It’s been a while though and has been put on the back burner. I’ve replaced a wheel speed sensor and done this. I remember reading somewhere that another cause may be the wheel bearing that causes the speed ring to be at a different distance. I forgot what else. But it’s been so long, that I’d have to read the fault again to remember where to begin with my vehicle specifically.
I'd figured that since the pump is always on heat wold be the problems even when the power is shut off that 40 amp fuse is always on heat is the enemy and this is a common problem for the module not cheap
Is it common for an EBCM to make a beep noise, like the one a test probe makes, when turning to ON position but not turning on the vehicle. 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 slt
The circuit for the booster positioning sensor is bad in mine I can’t find a circuit schematic for my module. Doesn’t help it’s an electric brake booster and not a vacuum one so it’s a circuit and not a sensor. 2020 Acadia 2.0t. Only code is C058A - Brake Booster Motor A Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance……..
Break light and ABS light cut on simultaneously when driving. According to the manual, this indicates a serious issue that requires towing the vehicle. Mine has been on for 10+ years…it’s a faulty warning. It’s a known problem with many GM vehicles. You’ll find numerous videos similar to this all over. Many repair shops will want to charge $1,500+ to repair. The above video will cost you an hour or two, soldering tools, and patience.
@@kyleorr533 WTF. I'm just a College student that didn't even look at the price of repair. I was thinking it was like $150 didn't bother to check because I knew I didn't have the money. I bought myself a soldering iron and replaced my lights in my ac control panel for practice. But the main reason I bought it is to fix my abs control module.
After lifting my vehicle, gathering correct tools, laying down ground cover, locating and removing EBCM, separating the cover, resoldering multiple old cold joints, but really not bad for 20 year old outdoor circuit board, (mine is 2001 with 235,000 miles), then resealing, closing, re installing on vehicle and lowering vehicle, tool clean up, all together a relaxed enjoyable repair I spent a relaxed pace of 4 hours. There's another video i like for this one too: ruclips.net/video/slMXut8VG6U/видео.html anyway Bon Chance!
This I can tell you, I had a 99 ford f150 that the mileage numbers would go out to fix this required the same procedure for the dash just be careful not to overheat the terminals your soldering because the green plating will melt when the solder your using starts to melt stop the heat but on the next terminal I would move to a opposite that way the green plating can cool down
Anyone do this that lives in a area with road salt, the heads on my torx screws are corroded and it’s impossible it get a grip on any advice also I have a 2000 gmc safari so basically no room over top of the module to get a dremmel or anything in there to cut a notch in the screw
Road salt version of this is take off the pump and the module all in one piece, taking off all brake lines.... buy new and install or try to work the screws off from the bench.... either way your going to have to crack open the brake system and will need to bleed all 4 lines once you put everything back in. Sry for the bad news.
Might have a speed sensor issue. Might want to check the main electrical connector for the trans, if there’s fluid in it that could cause random problems, or your trans is just worn out.
Hello, are you use a heat gun to melting a glue to easy open a cover? I also have a problem with abs light intermittently triggered. Hope you can answer, tq
Way too much gasket sealer and you didn't actually clean the 2 surfaces for proper thickness thermal pads because there's a gap between board and plate.The paste you used is meant to be completely displaced between contact areas like on a CPU, and otherwise you won't get good heat transfer.
A soldering iron? Lol sometimes called a soldering 'pen' or 'gun' there's different ones. They're usually 120V (wall outlet) If you're talking about the solution applied by paint brush, that is a soldering adhesion solution that helps with heat concentration and application of the soldering wire to the circuit board. It's not really required to execute a successful repair in my opinion. Save your money and just invest in a quality soldering iron and high temp wire.
2001 3500 CHEVY DURAMAX DUALLY This procedure worked. Prior to soldering I tested all contact points for continuity (where applicable) and visually inspected soldier joints for obvious cracks= none. I was not Convinced it would work but heated and soldiered each pin as shown in video. Afterwards, I cleaned the Acid FLUX of the board with alcohol and pressurized air. Reinstalled and = NO MORE ABS LIGHT!!! ABS brakes work AS DESIGNED.
If I take the module down will I lose my brake fluid and need to fill and bleed afterwards?
@@daviddurden9327 Yes, you should drain the fluid out of the master cylinder and drain all calipers, or it will all leak out when you remove the ABS module
. No. Won't happen.
Super video. I have this problem with my S-10. While "dry" or "cold" solder joints are always a problem with electronics, there is another malfunction that fouls up a module like this: bad electrolytic capacitors. These components are found in nearly anything electronic and deteriorate with age, especially when subjected to the high stress environment that a vehicle is exposed to. I would have liked to see the underside of that PCB and these parts replaced. Considering the vintage of the vehicles that many posters in here are talking about, these sort of failures are definite possibilities. There are videos on y-t that even show these parts being replaced on ECMs. ABS modules would be no different.
2000 GMC 2500 suddenly ABS continuously running even with the key off. No OBD codes shown. Had to pull the ABS fuse. This video was a big help to remove module and try to fix it. But soldering the module board as described didn't fix it. Maybe a stuck relay on the bottom of the board?? Sent it to the "Speedometer Repair Guy". 3 days shipping each way and 1 day to rebuild. Money well spent. Fixed.
Heads up on my EBCM, there were five T-20 screws holding the metal aluminum plate down. It's on a 2002 tahoe.
It's cool watching you work.
Great video but i wished you showed or put a link to the cleaner, you were using along with that paste you put on those points you had scraped off. Im kinda pissed at myself for not doing this before putting a whole new/used ABS valve and module. After putting it in, things were great. No lights. Put the truck on the road, now i have lights again
I also lubed the 6 shafts that go into the coils . One of the shafts were to dry , and pull one of my coils off the board, so I resoldered it back on.
wow, good job! you've got your temperature setting just right on that iron! It's critical to getting a fast smooth flow like you have! the right solder too. I like it. I'd buy one you'd repaired!! Thanks
I saw nothing smooth and the iron was too cold.
Will any thermal paste work for this or should I look for the HY510 thermal grease? Also, what gasket sealant is that?
Ugh, another no talk video. It is nice for us ,never done this before, gius to be able to have things explained while the tutoring is going on. Like what you are using, or why you use this or that, and what is it you are doing while doing it. Toungius making videos think everything is a no brainer if we just watch,, it or all of it is. So, what dealer did you use? What was it you brushed on to clean the pink things, what are the pink things,, looks like grease you put back on,, why and what grease?? What was is you put on everything before you soldered the joints, and is there an special kind?? Ugh, killing me.
The pink stuff is thermal transfer compound, just use thermal paste to replace it. Looks like he used denatured alcohol to clean it off, you can use 91% rubbing alcohol instead. The stuff he brushed onto the solder joints is solder flux.
@@juggnautbitch thank you!!!
@@juggnautbitch do you know what solder wire should I get before I start doing it
@@albertquintero5412 60/40
@@pabloalmada7710 what kind of rtv for sealing it?
Thanks for this video! Fixed my abs light issue :)
Thank you for the visual video all your demonstrations were clear to me.
Thank you,thank you,thank you - 03 Chevy SSR ABS module like new again...saved lot of money. ;)
What did you reseal the two pieces back with?
Remove cover, apply solder flux (or use flux core solder/ rosin core solder), flow extra solder down the pins to repair connections between layers of the boards, apply new thermal paste, apply gasket sealant, press cover back on, get to know Jesus.
Pretty good but I expected more info such as captions or voice over. What were the steps/what products were used? I suggest to can the music.
Ugh same.
So, basically, the solder points on the board slightly separate and require better contact?
yes, they crack and re-soldering cures it, it's called a dry joint.
it happens because the heavy solder joints were not heated enough during manufacturing
Nice
mines 20 years old with over 200,000 miles, i like the choices GM made for the cost to value decision.
Wish you would have explained what flux and solder you used and what you used to clean the solder joints after your repair.
alcohol ; regular process.
Worked like a charm. Thanks for the insight
what an amazing piece of electronic ....
So, how about an intermittent C0110 ABS code? My 2006 Silverado 1500 has that code that means "pump circuit malfunction." I have heard and read 50/50 chance of either the ABS computer module or a short somewhere in the electrical of the pump motor. Unfortunately, you cannot buy a new pump assembly anymore as GM discontinued all ABS system parts except the wheel sensors and researching online has found it be impossible to find a new old stock one. You can buy used from a junkyard, but how long will they really last? I did find a company from California that will rebuild and rewind the electrical motor of the pump assembly for $340. They said from what they have seen it is common for the electrical motor to go bad in those pump assemblies.
Hi there, Thank for good video. Is it possible to operate ABS module with only one speed sensor? Actually, I am a student and want to present the ABS operation with single tire and break assembly using single speed sensor.
Sorry for the dumb question, my experience with soldering was high school electronics 30 years ago....is the flux required?
Dang I did this and my abs light went off but not my check brake light. Could it be from a solder that didn’t take? I checked brake fluid levels and they are fine. The check brake light came on the same time my abs did.
Same
Could be a faulty brake fluid level sensor. Did you scan vehicle for faults?
The two compound he used is thermal grease and gray silicone
Do you need any special heat paste for this project ???
Aloha for this video very helpful
For me I would want to remove the old solder that was worn out over time And cracks Thus the reason it was sent out to be fixed The video shows just heating and blending in new solder
...Also GM ABS and clusters used Flux Rosin Core Tin When silver solder is longer lasting And far less prone to cracking
Can you remove the electrical part of the ABS module without removing the ABS motor and lines? I do not want to remove the lines and motor. And is that dielectric grease you brushing on the board towards the end?
@captnjack5637 Yes, see our other video on removal. Flux is what we brushed on.
So, I just tried this and two pins sank into the circuit board. The solder is still connected to them when you peak underneath. Possible that it’ll still work? 🤷♂️
Did you ever figure this out?
@@khateramitchell8091 no. I put it back together and reinstalled. It didn’t fix the issue. However, I’m not sure that it’s the only problem. It’s been a while though and has been put on the back burner. I’ve replaced a wheel speed sensor and done this. I remember reading somewhere that another cause may be the wheel bearing that causes the speed ring to be at a different distance. I forgot what else. But it’s been so long, that I’d have to read the fault again to remember where to begin with my vehicle specifically.
Please HELP! My gmc terrain’s abs module decided to expire for a better choice of words…. Can you please tell me what I have to do to get mine fixed?
I'd figured that since the pump is always on heat wold be the problems even when the power is shut off that 40 amp fuse is always on heat is the enemy and this is a common problem for the module not cheap
Is it common for an EBCM to make a beep noise, like the one a test probe makes, when turning to ON position but not turning on the vehicle. 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 slt
Assuming ABS control modules are all just about similar? would this kind of fix work for a 2006 Toyota sienna abs module?
1:57 He finally gets the cover off. 🙃
I need to try this on my 02. Changed a brake line and now the ABS module does not want to complete the bleed procedure.
The circuit for the booster positioning sensor is bad in mine I can’t find a circuit schematic for my module. Doesn’t help it’s an electric brake booster and not a vacuum one so it’s a circuit and not a sensor. 2020 Acadia 2.0t. Only code is C058A - Brake Booster Motor A Position
Sensor Circuit Range/Performance……..
Thanks
Does this repair cure the ABS pump running constantly?
Yes it does.
in the notes, they wrote, you can unplug it ; but it's an advice with caution.
What was the problem, that prompted this repair?
Intermittent ABS and Service Brake System light/message
ruclips.net/video/7mMHy5QrOfo/видео.html
Break light and ABS light cut on simultaneously when driving. According to the manual, this indicates a serious issue that requires towing the vehicle. Mine has been on for 10+ years…it’s a faulty warning. It’s a known problem with many GM vehicles. You’ll find numerous videos similar to this all over. Many repair shops will want to charge $1,500+ to repair. The above video will cost you an hour or two, soldering tools, and patience.
@@kyleorr533 WTF. I'm just a College student that didn't even look at the price of repair. I was thinking it was like $150 didn't bother to check because I knew I didn't have the money. I bought myself a soldering iron and replaced my lights in my ac control panel for practice. But the main reason I bought it is to fix my abs control module.
Are you stilll repairing these modules. I have a 2002 gmc 1500 with brake and abs light
Yes we are still repairing them. You can find the link to the service in the description of this video.
Need this for my 2002 Cadillac Escalade 5.3 rwd guys how long does this take? Once sent to you my is staying on so i removed the abs module fuze
After lifting my vehicle, gathering correct tools, laying down ground cover, locating and removing EBCM, separating the cover, resoldering multiple old cold joints, but really not bad for 20 year old outdoor circuit board, (mine is 2001 with 235,000 miles), then resealing, closing, re installing on vehicle and lowering vehicle, tool clean up, all together a relaxed enjoyable repair I spent a relaxed pace of 4 hours. There's another video i like for this one too: ruclips.net/video/slMXut8VG6U/видео.html
anyway Bon Chance!
Three bond 1215 or permatex ultra gray
What is that he's brushing on the module I love these no talking videos to 😡
to solder, it was flux; to clean, it was alcohol.
what do you call the container that holds the cleaner?
Contact cleaner
First time trying to solder something what if i mess it up? Will it be dangerous to drive?
This I can tell you, I had a 99 ford f150 that the mileage numbers would go out to fix this required the same procedure for the dash just be careful not to overheat the terminals your soldering because the green plating will melt when the solder your using starts to melt stop the heat but on the next terminal I would move to a opposite that way the green plating can cool down
yeah, to solder is practice and know how it's a skill.
Worked Great, easy to do! Thanks!
Anyone do this that lives in a area with road salt, the heads on my torx screws are corroded and it’s impossible it get a grip on any advice also I have a 2000 gmc safari so basically no room over top of the module to get a dremmel or anything in there to cut a notch in the screw
Road salt version of this is take off the pump and the module all in one piece, taking off all brake lines.... buy new and install or try to work the screws off from the bench.... either way your going to have to crack open the brake system and will need to bleed all 4 lines once you put everything back in. Sry for the bad news.
Would this cause a transmission to go into limp mode? I have the same symptoms but also my transmission is in limp mode.
No
Use viagra
Might have a speed sensor issue. Might want to check the main electrical connector for the trans, if there’s fluid in it that could cause random problems, or your trans is just worn out.
Did you get the transmission issue fixed? I got my s10 doing the same thing, but only intermittently.
are the big points allowed to touch each other? I mean the ones that are very close to each other
Hi how are you doing today
Hello, are you use a heat gun to melting a glue to easy open a cover? I also have a problem with abs light intermittently triggered.
Hope you can answer, tq
We do not, we just cut it with an exacto. Just have to be cautious when doing so.
@@AutomotiveCircuitSolutions thanks for your reply
Ground point
Way too much gasket sealer and you didn't actually clean the 2 surfaces for proper thickness thermal pads because there's a gap between board and plate.The paste you used is meant to be completely displaced between contact areas like on a CPU, and otherwise you won't get good heat transfer.
Nope, motor still won't shut off.
what hell is being used to solder it. anybody know
A soldering iron? Lol sometimes called a soldering 'pen' or 'gun' there's different ones. They're usually 120V (wall outlet)
If you're talking about the solution applied by paint brush, that is a soldering adhesion solution that helps with heat concentration and application of the soldering wire to the circuit board. It's not really required to execute a successful repair in my opinion. Save your money and just invest in a quality soldering iron and high temp wire.
@@juice_ej8860 soldering adhesion solution??? You mean "flux" .... 😄 🤣 😂
@@MyBigThing2010 what the flux are you saying?
How about wtf 🤬 u brush on before after 🤦🏽♂️
Came for the fix, stayed for the music