When I have to fish something through like this, many times I will tie a string to the end before removing the old one, that way I can transfer the string to the new one and pull the new part back through the opening. Many times it makes things easier. Great videos!
this is a common issue on these trucks ... the get filled with dirt/mud ( as you can see from the dirt on the truck ) there is an updated part by GM where you reroute the pre filter to a new location and use heater hose for the hose and use ban clamps to connect everything... you can also use a noid light in the connector and use it to test the circuit. the gm one in the kit fits perfectly in most connectors. typically use to test injector pulses i work as a drive ability tech for GMC dealership
Thanks for the video. I just did this on my 2011 Silverado - LT - 5.3 - 41k miles because of a p0449. The part number is 22840971 for the assembly. I tried to get just the solenoid, but had to get the whole assembly for ~$60 online. Amazon, Autozone, etc. told me that that part does NOT fit my 2011 Silverado, but the dealer told me it would and they were right. The long tube that goes to the gas filler neck would not just pull out because the truck assembly process left a "hole" just big enough for the tube, not the filter at the head. I just cut the tube for removal and there is a bigger space above the original route. and the head went through just fine. I couldn't get the electrical connection to come apart until I slid a small screwdriver up under the locking clasp and worked it around to release the clasp. Thanks again for the video.
Same here, Amazon tells me Dorman 911-524 won't fit my 2011 Silverado 1500. I got mine from Parts Geek where their website said it would fit. It does, Amazon has it for $20 cheaper which includes the filler filter that the set I got didn't. October 2022 pricing $68. One of the repair site calculators said this was a minimum $270 repair shop charge. Eric shows breaking the retaining pins loose on the cannister connection which is what I had to do. The new Dorman connector looks different but fits. I carefully sliced the old tubing on the filler filter to remove it; it was easy to put the new tubing on. I too had to jimmy the electrical connection off, the red push pin had fallen apart. All in all fairly easy job, a novice can handle it, no special tools required. Prior to my P0499 I had a false TPMS alarm on a single tire; it cleared too. One of the repair vids mentioned this circuit was tied to something else and maybe that was it. By far this was the best video to help me get the job done, thanks Eric.
Hi Guys. 2010 Silverado lt 1500 here. I have the same code and can smell the gas vapors. Ordered this part, but on my truck, the long hose on the pre existing canister goes all the way to the front and under the engine.... not to the filler neck. Wondering what I could do?
Thank you for this video, Dr. O! I have watched your videos for a number of months now, solely for entertainment and education up until today. I recently picked up a well-loved '05 GMC Sierra half-ton; I bought it with the money light on via this exact same DTC. I knew you had done a video on this before and, sure enough, my YT history showed it a few months ago. To note, the procedure is the exact same on at least the '03-'06 model years for Chevy/GMC but, at least on mine, I was able to re-use the hoses going to the various other components. Took me about 15-20 minutes all-in with nothing more than a flathead screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps to remove the old part and to tighten them back on to the new part. Watching your videos has given me the confidence to do these "easier" DIY jobs - heck, I told my wife it was easier than changing the oil in these newer vehicles - and I thank you for doing these videos. I watch new ones almost the same day you post them! Keep up the fine work.
Hey i got the same one. Did it ever go from working fine to next morning woildnt go over 40mph? It revvs up but then drops in rpm and hardly accelerates? Mine started doing that and cant figure out what it is
Appreciate all the information. I owned a 2009 GMC for 12 years. Traded it off in 2021 with 112,000 miles on it. Never once did I have a problem with anything on that truck. The only thing I replaced were my rear shocks at 108,000 miles. I bought a 2019 GMC 2 years ago with 35,000 miles. Since then, I have replaced my rear shocks and front struts. Front windows don't always power up correctly. Now I'm having problems with the evaporator system whatever. Almost makes me want to trade it in on a godforsaken Ford.
Appreciate the video showing the R+R, I've been putting this off for too long but now that I've seen it done I'm getting the part ordered to get rid of the check engine light
My Silverado 2003 1500 LT came up with a p0449. The truck would idle very low or die out. I remember many years ago I had changed out the throttle body assembly with a new one on a truck I had at the time and that solved the problem. Now I have this Silverado doing the same thing. So I ordered a new throttle body assembly off of eBay which came with a new throttle body positioning sensor for like $56.00 and this solved the problem. My truck now idles again and doesn't die out. I suppose you could just order a new throttle positioning sensor and deal with drilling out the 4 rivets, but some people had a problem with the connector not pushing all the way in.
I am just amazed at the clean clear logic that you have. I have a MS in ME and I think that you have more engineering ability than a lot on engineers I have met.
Thank you very much !!! I had the bed off of my 2013 Silverado 1500 to deal with a serious rust / rot issue and I could not remember where the fresh air intake for the evap was mounted ( welders removed the fuel tank ). After several hours of videos that showed the evap canister and solenoid but not the fresh air intake I came across your fantastic video. Thank you , Thank you. Well done
This channel is a must!! First the educational value. Second the entertainment value. Third, with the amount of subscribers he has, company's listen. What did they say to Truman? Give em - Harry! Give em - Eric for all of us nobodies. But when Dorman does something right please b humble enough to admit it and give them props. Just my dumb thoughts
I spent three years in Northern Illinois in the late 70’s working in my brother in laws shop and remember the rust on vehicles. Being back in California for the last 40 years you forget about how much vehicles rust from the winter conditions back east and the Midwest.
Thanks! Found the "Green Crusty" 1 inch from shiny vent valve solenoid connector on 2010 Suburban and took a "Money shot" as I pulled the insulation apart to see green dust spray EVERYWHERE!
Just went through this with my 15 Silverado, the dreaded P0449 code. Also, on my dash it was telling me to tighten gas cap. First thing I did was tighten gas cap, cleared the code and rechecked. 0449 code is back. Inspected hoses at filler neck. Sure enough a critter chewed on the plastic vent filter hose. Replaced that, cleared code and rescanned, code is back. Checked the EVAP solenoid and a wire had corroded not allowing current to the solenoid. Ordered a EVAP solenoid with wiring harness from Amazon for $30 would have been $70 from auto parts store, installed new solenoid / harness and again cleared the code. Fingers crossed, and rescanned. NO CODES. Hope this helps someone having the same issue.
Thxs , I,ve learned a lot about diagnosing can issue,s thru you. I worked on cars when we only had to tune carbs and whatever we clean..lol Now it requires an engineers and computer degree to look at it. 😅 You make it look easy pal, makes sense when you walk us thru.
I do testing and build the testing equipment for the dust testing ingestion on this very same cyclonic/ CVS. It is tested to GMW-15826 and ISO-5011. These are very complex testing specifications. I'm surprised of the failure noted in this. The prefilter is in the upper intake by the filler neck , the cyclonic filter has a capacity of 40 gram , tested with ISO- fine dust. After the dust exposure it is tested to leak < 9 cc/minuet. There may be an issue of salt fog being sucked into the valve and make it freeze up. Not a failure mode in the test lab. Great video! I wonder if you have put 12vdc to the terminals to see if it activates the solenoid after removal? Almost needs a bore scope to look inside the ports to see dust cake build up, or anything else.
Ok so I just fixed this on a 2018, not a lot of material so I am trying to share the info. I did replace the bad vent solenoid but it still ran like crap. The REASON the valve went bad was from a filthy seal on the stupid Cap-less gas tank. Wiped it off and lubed the seal ran good as new. Good luck
"Incandescent test are no good and you should then throw them away!" said an instructor for a continuing education class for work. It's funny how the next day I was testing a circuit on a GM and the service manual specifically said to use an incandescent test light.
Really enjoy watching your videos on my second monitor on days I'm in the office. I'm pretty amazed at how much rust the cars up north have though...My car is 2 or 3 times older than the cars you work on and it hardly has any rust in the bottom.
One recommendation is putting a brief or detailed description of the vehicle in the description, it will probably net more views too when someone searches 2011 GMC Sierra Evap Vent problems.
Chance George You are correct I need info on a 99 Silverado 5.3 I'm trying to guess what year he is working on and find out it's 12 years newer but still a good video to use if I ever upgrade
I usually tape a chunk of string or wire to the filter before I pull it and the hose out of the crevice they stuffed it through. Makes pulling the new one back in much easier. The other option is to cut the hose off the valve and use the old hose as a pull snake. The things you do when you don't have a lift. :^)
As much as I love tools and gadgets (ASE kit is cool) your common man test light is the way to go for us DIY'ers. That seems to be a strange design making you replace the lines with the solenoid. Great video as usual Eric. The tutorial was spot on and I appreciate your humor. :) I'm still not getting notified of your videos and the bell has been clicked since day one. I'll do some research and get that fixed. I hate being late.
I keep having issues with my dang 2015 Sierra 1500. Every time I get one code figured out, another one pops up. Your videos have been a great help though
A third possibility is a tank pressure sensor!! A friend had that code on an 09 5.3l Z-71. The part store sold him a purge solenoid. It didn't help. He called me to find the problem. I knew to check the vent valve, and it did test intermittently not working. I replaced that, and still had the P-0449. I used a part store code scanner, and noticed the tank pressure was off!! Not out of range, but just off! I took the cap off, and it didn't go to zero. I ran the car and the pressure tests showed changes in pressure/vacuum, but it wouldn't show zero when zero. So I replaced the tank pressure sensor, too!!! That fixed it! The purge solenoid that the part store sold him, couldn't be returned!! Imagine that! They told him to buy an expensive part, to fix a problem, that didn't fix a problem, and they wouldn't take it back! I proved to him that the vent valve was malfunctioning, and needed to be replaced, so those dollars weren't an issue!! I was trying to NOT throw parts at it, like a parts changer! I wanted to prove my work, and the code led me to a partially malfunctions valve, so I replaced it!! Even tho it didn't fix the problem!! But, when I noticed the tank pressure not zeroing, I knew I had the fix!! And I never would have known to look at that info, had it not been for you, Dr. O. and others here on RUclips, like the car guy, scannerdanner, and Motoyam. Thanks to you guys, for teaching us!!
Eric that test light looks suspiciously like the Kent Moore that the dealerships use its available at gm service solutions but extremely expensive I have been using one for years. One test light you may want to try if you can get on loan from the truck is the EECT401. I had to order mine in I have never seen them on the truck. Its digital 0.1v to 19v the box says 4v to 19v but is in correct the spec sheet tells it as it is. It really good on 5v circuits when the signal can be as low as 0.5v ,you can also do some quick and dirty checks on the canbus system when you will see 2.4v. Think you would be impressed with it. If I get time I may do a quick video of it out in the field being used in the real world. regards Joe
Well the money light is on and we have the same code on chevy equinox so let's see what you found and I'll try to determine if I have the same issue love the channel boss
Hi Eric I think your home made 194 bulb test lamp is great and with a couple of alligator clips and long wire will do what the snap on will do at a fraction of the cost. I always watch for the old solid brass tip Bic pens you pull the ink straw out and solder in your wire and there you have good probes for home made testers. The Bic Pens are getting hard to find now. Keep Up the good videos. Brian & Shotty.
I am working on my 2008 1500 Silverado (not made the 1st payment on it yet) . I am a handy man at best. I've replaced all my spark plugs, wires, alternator, purge solenoid, evap canister, battery, ac blower motor, dash, all filter's (fyi, the 2007- 2014 Silverado cabin filters are a b**** times two because you HAVE TO CUT OUT THE housing that would be its housing cap and SURPRISE, NO D*** FILTER! DO YOU HAVE TO CLEAN EVAPORATOR AND REMOVE ALL DEBRIS FROM THE CAVITIES AND ORDER A NEW PLATE/CAP AND FILTER.) she's sounding, running like a champ and sounds so good and seems to "perk up'" so well now right? Sorta kinda, I noticed oil leaking all over the oil pain (was told it could be a rear main seal leak)and transmission bell and coolant leaking from the tube that goes into their head of the passenger side head and beneath the intake manifold, aka a possible head gasket leak. My heart sank and my eyes tear up. I have drive train warranty, but y'all know how that goes, the rather the truck burn to the ground first! I was told "when life gives you lemons, make lemonade! You have all the ingredients and the Haynes manual you have is your recipe book!" I feel the truck coming back to life, but how much is too much? I'm changing the coolant and transmission fluid change tomorrow and am the type of person that will work on repairing and upgrading anything till it can't go any further, yet I have so much to learn and am new to automatics but I love learning!
Eric, I was thinking maybe you could Take some filter oil that you would use for Air filters on motocross bikes and squirt that filter up By the filler hose It would fill some of those air Holes and make a better filter that would catch dirt just saying good job
U kept it real. That A1 auto showed a different version pain hassel free B.S. type video. My question is why take out the whole tubing and wire? Why not just take off the silenoid oe gas valve by itself ? Im curious of doing it myself.
This will be next thing i guess. I cleaned the purge valve solenoid, changed the charcoal canister, and now i can barely get a dollar for gas. Gunna see if napa has the vent solenoid and get this done before work hopefully. I do go off roading here and there but I thought it was due to me overfilling my tank a few times
My process when I need to learn something auto related: Step one, search RUclips, Step two, find your video, Step three, stop searching. Oh, and the love tap worked! Woo hoo!
The problem with the vent valves is they get dirt in them and they stick. Or they fail electrically. A lot of the time it's from dust ingestion a least here in the south. They get dirt in them because the air intake for the vent valve is on the fuel filler neck or they have been moved up on top of the trans as per GM's bulletin. But the still get dirt/dust in them. So why not hook the EVAP intake hose to the filtered air side of the air cleaner? Which would prevent dirt/dust ingestion.
Hey there Eric....1st I wanna thank you for taking the time to make these videos,2nd really enjoy your sense of humor...man you crack me up sometimes!..Both my daughters drive Chevy Cruzes and one of the cars has codes of the following..PO171,PO2270. So performed a smoke vacuum test and seen smoke coming from a pin hole near the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir(very weird)..then after smoke test codes UO100 and UO140.....your thoughts
Idk why a few loud mouths talk bad about GM. My silverado is 20 years old with 5.3 and 274k miles on it. Other than breaks and oil change its needed nothing but a fuel pump that I will put on here in the next few days. Still original coil packs too... Just replaced plugs and wires for the second time in its life!
great video all to common don't quote me I think that test light or at least the adapters are made by otc their part number is 3569 I've been wanting one for years
Good video with accurate information. I would of used a volt meter however the snapon test light with bannana clips is great. Please make more videos. There are to many amateur videos with incorrect Diagnostics methods/ procedures and incorrect information on RUclips.
I bought me an Evap solenoid for my 2011 GMC sierra 4.8l today, I have not installed it but the one they sold me at advanced auto parts looks different. I hope they sold me the right part. Yours looks like a small can attached to it the one I just bought looks fully enclosed and horizontal vs. Vertical 🤔
Darn, you are great and the information source! Love your Chanel and are a big fan. I have an 05 Silverado club cab that I pick up, which was beat, I repaired the many errors it had and now I'm enjoying the truck. Was unaware of the failure of the purge valve problem. Mine has no upper-end filter-what gives? I'll look into it. Thanks, Eric.🥰
I know the comment is old but I disagree with regard to this matter. Demonstrating a bad solenoid by reason of voltage and command is cool but what about when you don't have proper voltage? No one demonstrates that aspect of it.
I have a 2010 Cadillac SRX with 3.0 V6 direct injection engine the 3 pin pressure sensor what I found was problem with the 5 Volt reference pin was so corroded it was broken off into the wired part of the connector caused by water damage it was causing a P0449 code thank god GM located near central underneath of the driver side door which made it easier to access I clipped the old connector off replaced it with a new one from eBay spliced in the new one with but connectors problem solved I also replaced the purge valve located behind the throttle body and the ruff idle is gone also hope this helps those of you with the Cadillac SRX later models 2010-2016
Four years I was asked to look at a Saturn vue. It had a po449 code. Well I hooked up my 194 bulb test light and used my modis to buy directionally control it. Well the light didn't light so upon further inspection in the wire loom I found a corroded broken wire. Fixed the wire reconnected the connector to the vent solenoid and tried my test again. This time it clicked. Got paid and shipped it. Owner calls me two hours later and informs me he has had this problem for over a year and it's been looked at by two other shops. I said I am sorry. He had about given up.. simple broken wire and he showed my the list of parts that were thrown at this car
Eric that vent S.C.circuit why can't they completely seal them and save the driver's money good call on that by the way keep up the good work look forward to the next one.
Had a po449 on a 2010 hyundai sonata,shot the parts cannon at it [vent valve] come to find out it was the filter, it was clogged up with charcoal canister pellets,got them out put it back together and no more light.
You guys that make how-to videos, for vehicles especially, are life savers. Thank you very much.
When I have to fish something through like this, many times I will tie a string to the end before removing the old one, that way I can transfer the string to the new one and pull the new part back through the opening. Many times it makes things easier. Great videos!
Thanks for this idea
this is a common issue on these trucks ... the get filled with dirt/mud ( as you can see from the dirt on the truck ) there is an updated part by GM where you reroute the pre filter to a new location and use heater hose for the hose and use ban clamps to connect everything...
you can also use a noid light in the connector and use it to test the circuit. the gm one in the kit fits perfectly in most connectors. typically use to test injector pulses
i work as a drive ability tech for GMC dealership
Thanks for the video. I just did this on my 2011 Silverado - LT - 5.3 - 41k miles because of a p0449.
The part number is 22840971 for the assembly. I tried to get just the solenoid, but had to get the whole assembly for ~$60 online.
Amazon, Autozone, etc. told me that that part does NOT fit my 2011 Silverado, but the dealer told me it would and they were right. The long tube that goes to the gas filler neck would not just pull out because the truck assembly process left a "hole" just big enough for the tube, not the filter at the head. I just cut the tube for removal and there is a bigger space above the original route. and the head went through just fine. I couldn't get the electrical connection to come apart until I slid a small screwdriver up under the locking clasp and worked it around to release the clasp.
Thanks again for the video.
Same here, Amazon tells me Dorman 911-524 won't fit my 2011 Silverado 1500. I got mine from Parts Geek where their website said it would fit. It does, Amazon has it for $20 cheaper which includes the filler filter that the set I got didn't. October 2022 pricing $68. One of the repair site calculators said this was a minimum $270 repair shop charge.
Eric shows breaking the retaining pins loose on the cannister connection which is what I had to do. The new Dorman connector looks different but fits. I carefully sliced the old tubing on the filler filter to remove it; it was easy to put the new tubing on. I too had to jimmy the electrical connection off, the red push pin had fallen apart. All in all fairly easy job, a novice can handle it, no special tools required.
Prior to my P0499 I had a false TPMS alarm on a single tire; it cleared too. One of the repair vids mentioned this circuit was tied to something else and maybe that was it.
By far this was the best video to help me get the job done, thanks Eric.
Hi Guys. 2010 Silverado lt 1500 here. I have the same code and can smell the gas vapors. Ordered this part, but on my truck, the long hose on the pre existing canister goes all the way to the front and under the engine.... not to the filler neck. Wondering what I could do?
Thank you for this video, Dr. O! I have watched your videos for a number of months now, solely for entertainment and education up until today. I recently picked up a well-loved '05 GMC Sierra half-ton; I bought it with the money light on via this exact same DTC. I knew you had done a video on this before and, sure enough, my YT history showed it a few months ago. To note, the procedure is the exact same on at least the '03-'06 model years for Chevy/GMC but, at least on mine, I was able to re-use the hoses going to the various other components. Took me about 15-20 minutes all-in with nothing more than a flathead screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps to remove the old part and to tighten them back on to the new part. Watching your videos has given me the confidence to do these "easier" DIY jobs - heck, I told my wife it was easier than changing the oil in these newer vehicles - and I thank you for doing these videos. I watch new ones almost the same day you post them! Keep up the fine work.
Hey i got the same one. Did it ever go from working fine to next morning woildnt go over 40mph? It revvs up but then drops in rpm and hardly accelerates?
Mine started doing that and cant figure out what it is
been dealing with this engine light on/off for years!! this was it!! thanks for making this video!!!
I love it! If I search for a problem I’m trying to solve, chances are 10/10 times you’ve got a video on it.
Appreciate all the information. I owned a 2009 GMC for 12 years. Traded it off in 2021 with 112,000 miles on it. Never once did I have a problem with anything on that truck. The only thing I replaced were my rear shocks at 108,000 miles.
I bought a 2019 GMC 2 years ago with 35,000 miles. Since then, I have replaced my rear shocks and front struts. Front windows don't always power up correctly. Now I'm having problems with the evaporator system whatever. Almost makes me want to trade it in on a godforsaken Ford.
Anything past 2015 is when quality control went way down for both Ford and Chevy. It's called planned obsolescence, and it should be illegal.
Appreciate the video showing the R+R, I've been putting this off for too long but now that I've seen it done I'm getting the part ordered to get rid of the check engine light
Was really helpful...saved 600 $ did it on my own with in less than 10 min
My Silverado 2003 1500 LT came up with a p0449. The truck would idle very low or die out. I remember many years ago I had changed out the throttle body assembly with a new one on a truck I had at the time and that solved the problem. Now I have this Silverado doing the same thing. So I ordered a new throttle body assembly off of eBay which came with a new throttle body positioning sensor for like $56.00 and this solved the problem. My truck now idles again and doesn't die out. I suppose you could just order a new throttle positioning sensor and deal with drilling out the 4 rivets, but some people had a problem with the connector not pushing all the way in.
I am just amazed at the clean clear logic that you have. I have a MS in ME and I think that you have more engineering ability than a lot on engineers I have met.
Amen.
Thank you very much !!! I had the bed off of my 2013 Silverado 1500 to deal with a serious rust / rot issue and I could not remember where the fresh air intake for the evap was mounted ( welders removed the fuel tank ). After several hours of videos that showed the evap canister and solenoid but not the fresh air intake I came across your fantastic video. Thank you , Thank you. Well done
This channel is a must!! First the educational value. Second the entertainment value. Third, with the amount of subscribers he has, company's listen. What did they say to Truman? Give em - Harry! Give em - Eric for all of us nobodies. But when Dorman does something right please b humble enough to admit it and give them props. Just my dumb thoughts
I give credit where credit is do
I spent three years in Northern Illinois in the late 70’s working in my brother in laws shop and remember the rust on vehicles. Being back in California for the last 40 years you forget about how much vehicles rust from the winter conditions back east and the Midwest.
Thanks Eric! Now I get to be the hero to my neighbor and get his problem fixed!
Thank you for all you do. My prayers for you and your family. Stay safe.
Thanks! Found the "Green Crusty" 1 inch from shiny vent valve solenoid connector on 2010 Suburban and took a "Money shot" as I pulled the insulation apart to see green dust spray EVERYWHERE!
🥰
Just went through this with my 15 Silverado, the dreaded P0449 code. Also, on my dash it was telling me to tighten gas cap. First thing I did was tighten gas cap, cleared the code and rechecked. 0449 code is back. Inspected hoses at filler neck. Sure enough a critter chewed on the plastic vent filter hose. Replaced that, cleared code and rescanned, code is back. Checked the EVAP solenoid and a wire had corroded not allowing current to the solenoid. Ordered a EVAP solenoid with wiring harness from Amazon for $30 would have been $70 from auto parts store, installed new solenoid / harness and again cleared the code. Fingers crossed, and rescanned. NO CODES. Hope this helps someone having the same issue.
I always love your "upbeat" intro ! It shows a man who enjoys his work !
Oh how Mr.O makes it look like child's play. Thank you for educating all of us that fallow your fabulous shows 🍻cheers.
If he lived in my area i'd definitely have him as my mechanic.
Thxs , I,ve learned a lot about diagnosing can issue,s thru you. I worked on cars when we only had to tune carbs and whatever we clean..lol Now it requires an engineers and computer degree to look at it. 😅
You make it look easy pal, makes sense when you walk us thru.
Sorry, forgot to mention that I really enjoy your videos. Your personality is the best!
You say, "come on little guy" but what you really mean is, "come on you SOB"...... Piece O cake. Thanks for the video.
OTC 3525 and OTC 3569 are basically the same as the snap on test light Eric used in the video. Just FYI hope that helps someone out there
Fantastic!
Making that a one piece assembly sure makes it expensive, especially since the "filter" does not really prevent dirt from ruining the solenoid !
Not really, I paid only $51.00 for the complete assembly w/ my retires discount
Dr. O
great to watch a vid before I go to work.
I do testing and build the testing equipment for the dust testing ingestion on this very same cyclonic/ CVS. It is tested to GMW-15826 and ISO-5011. These are very complex testing specifications. I'm surprised of the failure noted in this. The prefilter is in the upper intake by the filler neck , the cyclonic filter has a capacity of 40 gram , tested with ISO- fine dust. After the dust exposure it is tested to leak < 9 cc/minuet. There may be an issue of salt fog being sucked into the valve and make it freeze up. Not a failure mode in the test lab. Great video!
I wonder if you have put 12vdc to the terminals to see if it activates the solenoid after removal? Almost needs a bore scope to look inside the ports to see dust cake build up, or anything else.
Ok so I just fixed this on a 2018, not a lot of material so I am trying to share the info. I did replace the bad vent solenoid but it still ran like crap. The REASON the valve went bad was from a filthy seal on the stupid Cap-less gas tank. Wiped it off and lubed the seal ran good as new. Good luck
"Incandescent test are no good and you should then throw them away!" said an instructor for a continuing education class for work. It's funny how the next day I was testing a circuit on a GM and the service manual specifically said to use an incandescent test light.
Joe Goodman the incandescent test light is the most undervalued tool the shop
Really enjoy watching your videos on my second monitor on days I'm in the office. I'm pretty amazed at how much rust the cars up north have though...My car is 2 or 3 times older than the cars you work on and it hardly has any rust in the bottom.
"the money sign" love it. I wish you were my mechanic
"Make sure you test, don't guess"...words of wisdom.
One recommendation is putting a brief or detailed description of the vehicle in the description, it will probably net more views too when someone searches 2011 GMC Sierra Evap Vent problems.
Good idea
South Main Auto Repair mainly because I'm descriptive in my searches, others may not be. Love your channel.
Chance George You are correct I need info on a 99 Silverado 5.3 I'm trying to guess what year he is working on and find out it's 12 years newer but still a good video to use if I ever upgrade
Most vehicles are similar thru generations especially gm. 4to 8 years is average generation.
Or any chevy thats how I find it
I usually tape a chunk of string or wire to the filter before I pull it and the hose out of the crevice they stuffed it through. Makes pulling the new one back in much easier.
The other option is to cut the hose off the valve and use the old hose as a pull snake.
The things you do when you don't have a lift. :^)
Another good video Eric O. Easy for you....not so easy for amateurs without the electro equipment. Cheers.
once again great video Eric, got to hand it to GM for Designing vehicles that keep the mechanic in business
Mine lasted 12yrs/226,000 miles
Don't worry, I have had 2 2016 Sierra's with faulty vent solenoids. Both under 10k miles, both farm trucks that were covered in heavy dust.
As much as I love tools and gadgets (ASE kit is cool) your common man test light is the way to go for us DIY'ers. That seems to be a strange design making you replace the lines with the solenoid. Great video as usual Eric. The tutorial was spot on and I appreciate your humor. :) I'm still not getting notified of your videos and the bell has been clicked since day one. I'll do some research and get that fixed. I hate being late.
I keep having issues with my dang 2015 Sierra 1500. Every time I get one code figured out, another one pops up. Your videos have been a great help though
Fantastic!!! 5 videos in the past week....TY
Thanks! I was wondering what that irritating P0449 error was coming from. Mine is same on the 2011 Chevrolet Colorado.
A third possibility is a tank pressure sensor!! A friend had that code on an 09 5.3l Z-71. The part store sold him a purge solenoid. It didn't help. He called me to find the problem. I knew to check the vent valve, and it did test intermittently not working. I replaced that, and still had the P-0449. I used a part store code scanner, and noticed the tank pressure was off!! Not out of range, but just off! I took the cap off, and it didn't go to zero. I ran the car and the pressure tests showed changes in pressure/vacuum, but it wouldn't show zero when zero. So I replaced the tank pressure sensor, too!!! That fixed it!
The purge solenoid that the part store sold him, couldn't be returned!! Imagine that! They told him to buy an expensive part, to fix a problem, that didn't fix a problem, and they wouldn't take it back! I proved to him that the vent valve was malfunctioning, and needed to be replaced, so those dollars weren't an issue!! I was trying to NOT throw parts at it, like a parts changer! I wanted to prove my work, and the code led me to a partially malfunctions valve, so I replaced it!! Even tho it didn't fix the problem!! But, when I noticed the tank pressure not zeroing, I knew I had the fix!!
And I never would have known to look at that info, had it not been for you, Dr. O. and others here on RUclips, like the car guy, scannerdanner, and Motoyam. Thanks to you guys, for teaching us!!
Yep watch this vid I did on that ruclips.net/video/uz4dNTsaeo0/видео.html
South Main Auto Repair yes Sir!! Very much like that. I hope some people find that info very helpful.
Eric that test light looks suspiciously like the Kent Moore that the dealerships use its available at gm service solutions but extremely expensive I have been using one for years. One test light you may want to try if you can get on loan from the truck is the EECT401. I had to order mine in I have never seen them on the truck. Its digital 0.1v to 19v the box says 4v to 19v but is in correct the spec sheet tells it as it is. It really good on 5v circuits when the signal can be as low as 0.5v ,you can also do some quick and dirty checks on the canbus system when you will see 2.4v. Think
you would be impressed with it. If I get time I may do a quick video of it out in the field being used in the real world. regards
Joe
a noid light works great for checking the circuit. no worry about speading the connector.
I think it'd be pretty Sweet if we got a Tour of Eric's truck on Video one day
and a brief talk about why he chose it.
Another fine job Dr.O! Always learning.
Well the money light is on and we have the same code on chevy equinox so let's see what you found and I'll try to determine if I have the same issue love the channel boss
Hi Eric I think your home made 194 bulb test lamp is great and with a couple of alligator clips and long wire will do what the snap on will do at a fraction of the cost.
I always watch for the old solid brass tip Bic pens you pull the ink straw out and solder in your wire and there you have good probes for home made testers. The Bic Pens are getting hard to find now. Keep Up the good videos.
Brian & Shotty.
I am working on my 2008 1500 Silverado (not made the 1st payment on it yet) . I am a handy man at best. I've replaced all my spark plugs, wires, alternator, purge solenoid, evap canister, battery, ac blower motor, dash, all filter's (fyi, the 2007- 2014 Silverado cabin filters are a b**** times two because you HAVE TO CUT OUT THE housing that would be its housing cap and SURPRISE, NO D*** FILTER! DO YOU HAVE TO CLEAN EVAPORATOR AND REMOVE ALL DEBRIS FROM THE CAVITIES AND ORDER A NEW PLATE/CAP AND FILTER.) she's sounding, running like a champ and sounds so good and seems to "perk up'" so well now right? Sorta kinda, I noticed oil leaking all over the oil pain (was told it could be a rear main seal leak)and transmission bell and coolant leaking from the tube that goes into their head of the passenger side head and beneath the intake manifold, aka a possible head gasket leak. My heart sank and my eyes tear up. I have drive train warranty, but y'all know how that goes, the rather the truck burn to the ground first! I was told "when life gives you lemons, make lemonade! You have all the ingredients and the Haynes manual you have is your recipe book!" I feel the truck coming back to life, but how much is too much? I'm changing the coolant and transmission fluid change tomorrow and am the type of person that will work on repairing and upgrading anything till it can't go any further, yet I have so much to learn and am new to automatics but I love learning!
Well done. It is interesting that they can galvanize the truck body before painting. But they won't do the frame. And the result is obviously BAD!
Great video as usual. That frame looked pretty rusty for what looks to be a newer truck. Gotta love NY salt in winter..
I think it looks good for where they are at
Eric, I was thinking maybe you could Take some filter oil that you would use for Air filters on motocross bikes and squirt that filter up By the filler hose It would fill some of those air Holes and make a better filter that would catch dirt just saying good job
U kept it real. That A1 auto showed a different version pain hassel free B.S. type video. My question is why take out the whole tubing and wire? Why not just take off the silenoid oe gas valve by itself ? Im curious of doing it myself.
This will be next thing i guess. I cleaned the purge valve solenoid, changed the charcoal canister, and now i can barely get a dollar for gas. Gunna see if napa has the vent solenoid and get this done before work hopefully. I do go off roading here and there but I thought it was due to me overfilling my tank a few times
My process when I need to learn something auto related: Step one, search RUclips, Step two, find your video, Step three, stop searching. Oh, and the love tap worked! Woo hoo!
The problem with the vent valves is they get dirt in them and they stick. Or they fail electrically. A lot of the time it's from dust ingestion a least here in the south. They get dirt in them because the air intake for the vent valve is on the fuel filler neck or they have been moved up on top of the trans as per GM's bulletin. But the still get dirt/dust in them. So why not hook the EVAP intake hose to the filtered air side of the air cleaner? Which would prevent dirt/dust ingestion.
Nice test light man. I just bought the snap-on lcd 24v test light just because of the good cable a bigger ground clamp.
Hey there Eric....1st I wanna thank you for taking the time to make these videos,2nd really enjoy your sense of humor...man you crack me up sometimes!..Both my daughters drive Chevy Cruzes and one of the cars has codes of the following..PO171,PO2270. So performed a smoke vacuum test and seen smoke coming from a pin hole near the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir(very weird)..then after smoke test codes UO100 and UO140.....your thoughts
Great videos, thankyou for posting all your helpfull content. Its invaluable to watch a master at work!
Bro the light was a genius idea never seen that before
I'm not a Snap On guy either, but that test light is amazing.
OTC makes one just like it I found out
thanks for a video without the quick disconnect.
Mine just went bad for the first time. 2007 Silverado with 187,000 miles.
Idk why a few loud mouths talk bad about GM. My silverado is 20 years old with 5.3 and 274k miles on it. Other than breaks and oil change its needed nothing but a fuel pump that I will put on here in the next few days. Still original coil packs too... Just replaced plugs and wires for the second time in its life!
@@crowdnine878 Still driving it. Now 211,000 miles. No issues.
"Don't condone snap-on tools in any way" as he's using a snap on scanner lol. Love the videos man!!
You would think they would run that tube up to the engine air filter housing . I wonder if that evap filter is removable for cleaning .
Truely fascinating I'm not a car guy but I'm learning thank you!!!
there's lots of things GM doesn't do right.
There are a lot of things any auto manufacturer does not do right ( in the opinion of us whom are not engineering the vehicles)
great video all to common don't quote me I think that test light or at least the adapters are made by otc their part number is 3569 I've been wanting one for years
Mike Eustice You are absolutely correct. Plugged OTC 3569 into a search engine and came up with several vendors.
Excellent diagnosis and video Eric. You take this time to make all these great videos and I'm gonna do my best to say Thanks everytime.
Good video with accurate information. I would of used a volt meter however the snapon test light with bannana clips is great. Please make more videos. There are to many amateur videos with incorrect Diagnostics methods/ procedures and incorrect information on RUclips.
Exactly what I was wondering after he said 150 for a test light wouldn't a 20 dollar volt meter do the trick idk
I bought me an Evap solenoid for my 2011 GMC sierra 4.8l today, I have not installed it but the one they sold me at advanced auto parts looks different. I hope they sold me the right part. Yours looks like a small can attached to it the one I just bought looks fully enclosed and horizontal vs. Vertical 🤔
good morning Eric O
Great video, as always Eric! Love your channel!
I need to do one on my truck tomorrow thanks for the video
mmm... dont even have anythng to say Erick... well done...
Darn, you are great and the information source! Love your Chanel and are a big fan. I have an 05 Silverado club cab that I pick up, which was beat, I repaired the many errors it had and now I'm enjoying the truck. Was unaware of the failure of the purge valve problem. Mine has no upper-end filter-what gives? I'll look into it. Thanks, Eric.🥰
im subscribed to many how to repair vlogs,I've got to say yours is the most informative and interesting,thanks for the great job,Shane Grove city ohio
I know the comment is old but I disagree with regard to this matter. Demonstrating a bad solenoid by reason of voltage and command is cool but what about when you don't have proper voltage? No one demonstrates that aspect of it.
hey eric,,,ya still the best!!!!!regards Tw canada,s west coast
look at the rot! $40-50k truck with a life span of a few years. that's why i love/live in SUNNY FLORIDA
Yea ! Just pump that E85 in there. Flex fuel . What does that do to your charcoal? Plug it up along with everything else .
I have a 2010 Cadillac SRX with 3.0 V6 direct injection engine the 3 pin pressure sensor what I found was problem with the 5 Volt reference pin was so corroded it was broken off into the wired part of the connector caused by water damage it was causing a P0449 code thank god GM located near central underneath of the driver side door which made it easier to access I clipped the old connector off replaced it with a new one from eBay spliced in the new one with but connectors problem solved I also replaced the purge valve located behind the throttle body and the ruff idle is gone also hope this helps those of you with the Cadillac SRX later models 2010-2016
OK , who is the thumbs down people. I see that a lot. hater's why? this is a great video people.
Cant do anything about that Jon alot of idiots in the world we just have to live with it.
Seems like a simple project. Good money maker
Is there a part number for the hose going from the solenoid to the tank? Mine was rotten and broke when it came off?
Four years I was asked to look at a Saturn vue. It had a po449 code. Well I hooked up my 194 bulb test light and used my modis to buy directionally control it. Well the light didn't light so upon further inspection in the wire loom I found a corroded broken wire. Fixed the wire reconnected the connector to the vent solenoid and tried my test again. This time it clicked. Got paid and shipped it. Owner calls me two hours later and informs me he has had this problem for over a year and it's been looked at by two other shops. I said I am sorry. He had about given up.. simple broken wire and he showed my the list of parts that were thrown at this car
Could it cause to missfire? I did replace spark plugs wire spark plugs cleaned maf sensor
You been on a roll lately with the videos. I love it. Keep it up, Eric!!
Must be UP North !!
See all the rust on the frame !!!!!
I have a “09” !!
Frame looks new !- I’m in Houston Texas ! 😬
Thank you for your help it will save me money
Eric that vent S.C.circuit why can't they completely seal them and save the driver's money good call on that by the way keep up the good work look forward to the next one.
Had a po449 on a 2010 hyundai sonata,shot the parts cannon at it [vent valve] come to find out it was the filter, it was clogged up with charcoal canister pellets,got them out put it back together and no more light.
nice video i use a test light also. if i have time i will do a evap service bay test to check the whole system.
3 Haters that don't like quality mechanics, awesome vids and hilarious narration!
I can do that repair , finally something I can do. Haha. Ok that light is on my bucket list , awesome .
Good luck getting one :)
you are the savior👍🏻
Good job Mr. O.....
Another great video Eric..
Thanks !
Eric O, Keep it up! Love what you do, and I learn something every video, thanks!
wow I really like that light you made I'm gonna make one of those now thanks for the awesome videos 👍
I made one worked great