Kelsey Hayes ABS Module repair - Multiple vehicles!! ABS light on diagnostics-ABS pump runs non stop
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2022
- Kelsey Hayes ABS Module repair - Multiple vehicles!! ABS light on diagnostics-ABS pump runs non stop or doesn't run at all. Changed speed sensor and still have ABS light. ABS Inoperative Brake light on. C0265 code
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You sir, are an Effin genius!!! I followed your info exactly, and fixed my brake modual!!!! I’ve had to live with the lights on for several years, after I paid a shop to fix it, and it only lasted 6-8 months! I figured it wasn’t worth paying again- then I saw your tutorial video and said “what the hell! Nothing ventured, nothing gained!” And tried it!! Thank you from the bottom of my heart!!!
On a side note- I used a magnifying glass, AND my readers to super zoom in, and still couldn’t see any crack- but decided since I was already there- go for it! Glad I did!!!
SUBSCRIBED!!
Reminds me of when I worked as an electronic test technician back in the 80's. Most bad solder connections where caused by cold soldering in the flow soldering process. They used flux that was cleaned by water baths. It did not allow the heat penetration needed to allow the PCB board through hole to "suck up" the solder to create a true bond. To make matters worse vibration over time makes a tiny component weight fracture the solder joints. Solder is a mixture of tin and lead both a very weak bond.
Thank you Kelsey. Your video had many solutions for me and your approach made it look very doable for the DIY person. I really enjoyed your approach as I was beginning to think that I would have to get professional help but I feel that my skills should allow me to attempt it myself. I therefore believe that you have achieved your objective in posting this. A BIG thank you from me mate.!!
Thanks for the great video. I appreciate the detail provided on all tools and components to be soldered… 😊
Thank you very much for your complete video! Others don't show the hardest part... taking off the cover! I know I destroyed the first one I attempted. After watching your video/technique I rebuilt 3 units already!
Thanks for instructions, Kelsey👍 Have a great day🎉
As one old-timer to another, I prefer your video of what needs to be done, I might just tackle this one myself.
Good Video. Was relaxing to watch and loved the cat. 😊
Thank you so much for sharing. I'm going to give this a try on mine.
Thanks for showing how it’s done
I knew Kelsay Hayes back when he was designing the ABS system. He started to design it after the death of his kid in a car accident. He used the old military base in Green cove springs Florida and I worked at a body shop that Kelsey Hayes took the cars and trucks to after they wrecked them
When was this and who did he work for?
Interesting back story there. I stumbled across your comment while watching this because I'm repairing my abs module. I live a few miles away from Camp Blanding and thought this was an interesting bit of info you provided.
Exactly what I needed, thank you sir!
I'd like to Thank You, for your very informative post !!!
LOVE your Beautiful Cat , it sounds Hungry !
Excellent video, gonna do mine tomorrow!
This was just what I needed! Thanks for the explanation! I'll probably try some 99.9% isopropyl alcohol to release that gasket. I'll let you know how I get on!
The joys of non leaded solder!
Most use unsoldered pins, poor engineering, could have at least used conductive springs under the pins. Looks like the board breaks loose and it all goes to hell quickly.
Great video but i was wondering what threads were on the 2 sets of torx screws (the T20 and the T8.) I know the 20 is a M4 x .07 but the smaller one i cant figure out. Is it a M2.5 x ? or is it a 4-40? The screws in my unit are just plain shot
Hey great vid thanks. I can't get my circuit board off the module while it's on the vehicle it's those 4 torx 20 screws that are seized. One of the pieces looks like it has only holes and no threads only threads on the bottom piece. Wondering if it would work if I was able to cut the heads off those 4 t 20 screws and possibly into.the plastic of the mounting holes as well ? There is the one location where I don't know if the head will cut off because of the 90 angle it's on . Anyone know if that will work?
Thanks for the video, love your kitty ;-)
First, love the shirt.👍
I have a 2003 mazdaspeed protege. Same issue. Pump runs constantly. I assumed it was just like this and had cracked solder. Took it apart, and found something was shorted and fried something on the board. Looks like a relay maybe. How can I find out for sure what it is ?
There was a lot shorted on this car. Blown light bulbs, etc. Noticed it was super clean underneath. Then found out when it was last registered. Had ti be a hurricane Florence flood car. Water shorted it all out. This abs module is the last thing left.
thanks for the video. my 2007 volvo s40 has intermittent ABS light on. error code is 0030 rear wheel sensor faulty signal. replacing the sensor didn't fix it. wires and the pump are tested ok. so do you think the issue is from ABS module?
Do you know where you can get replacement coils from other than robbing one from a junk module? I just took mine apart and one of my solenoid coils was burned up.
So do you only solder the pin connections (where the connector connects to)? What exactly does a worn solder joint look like? I am working on a Kelsey Hayes 125 RWAL for my 1998 dodge dakota.
Love the shirt. My 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500hd cluster displays "service brake system" . Brakes work fine. Do you think my problem is in what you described ? Idea's please... THANK YOU !
I sent mine off because I didn't have time to fix it, what I heard was there was a ton of the modules sent out with COLD SOLDER joints that give out after a few years of vibrations.
7:52 to 8:00 those " circular things " are coils for the solenoids.
Yes, the Oilers shirts are hard to find. I'd like to get one like it, where did you get that one, please?
Can you repair an ABS control module from 2013 dodge dart sxt ?
I have abs light and brake light on only comes on when the temp is cold? Any suggestions on why?? Also no heat and no wipers associated with this particular problem..
Would you be kind enough to tell me the hakko model soldering iron you are using, I am having trouble finding the hot tip swappable unit. Thank you in advance and thanks for the informative video.
Hakko FX-951
It worked? ..i have u3000:48-2B error code on my fiesta abs module
I have a 95 Chevy pickup, there is no abs light on wat so ever,but I have spongy brakes I put in a new brake pump and got Al The aire out and still the same!! Could it be the PC board of the abs
??
Odd question but what is the watch looking device on your right wrist?
How can remove the plástic cap fron de previus model ?
Thanks for the knowledge. Great video. Ill be doing this soon. 👍👍🇺🇸🇮🇪
My S10 is from the year 99 with a 2.2 engine and that module does not have that aluminum cover, it has a Bakelite cover and has 4 connectors and the one in the video only has 3 connectors, it is the same Kelsy brand, it is impossible to cut that silicone because it has a square on the edges, I thought about doing the same by re-soldering the tin but it is impossible to remove that cover.
Not the OILERS SHIRT!! Love those OILERS back then.
Do you fix the 97 to 00 c5 corvette ABS modules code M
Just did mine yesterday for a 2004 blazer. My module did have any screws and appeared factory oem.
He's saying it's almost always dry solder joints but i have heard it is often the brushes in the motor that are worn. How about bad capacitors or other components? Does that never happen?
Do you know if there are any people here in South Florida that can do what you do to fix ABS module for a Corvette Z06?
Hi, can you repair 2007 jeep wrangler abs modular
Ever do one on a 2005 Range Rover mine just went out.
What brand and size (diameter) of solder is good for this type of work? Are you using 60/40 Rosin Core?
yes 60 40...i just buy whatevers on sale in the 60/40 series
Oh 1 question ....I seen someone remove the old solder And replace it with what they called stronger better silver solder on GM clusters Is it a better way?
They are most likely describing lead free solder vs 60/40 ...40% lead...the lead makes it more durable in high vibration settings
Most ABS wire harness and solenoids are not soldered, are some sort of expanding pins. With all of the vibration and abs solenoid magnetic vibration, looks like the special pins wear out the hole and continuity contacts they're in. Soldering might be a bad idea, might break the board; and so what I did was twist the pins about 15 degrees clockwise, in order to a fresh unworn contact point. Engineers should have tried using conductive springs underneath these pins, might eliminate the wear.
Well, it appears the module for the 2001 dodge 2500 does not come apart. The connectors are molded right on, irreparable
My approach to repairing automotive control modules is very similar. I actually have the same model Stereo Microscope, but in white. I also have the led ring attachment light. I added two side high intensity LED lights which helps show the cracked solder joints. In terms of solder equipment, I have access to a micro-electronic soldering bench. Basically, everything except the large BGA equipment, which we job out. For example, programmable hot air stations, solder removal vacuum hand pieces, many different soldering stations, infrared preheaters, and with the except one hot air station all are made by PACE. I like the HAKKO C5O27 board holders, so I have retrofit my PACE equipment to accept HAKKO holders.
I actually specified a new Stereo Microscope setup based on MEIJI EMZ-8TR, it is very similar to the NAVY soldering school stereo microscope. This microscope is the easiest to use in terms of keeping things in focus, and how far away the workpiece is from the lens. Maybe I can purchase it this year.
The process of the repair is a little more rigorous because of the soldering approach and requirements which have to follow IPC standards. In looking at the PC board when exposed it is most likely soldered with lead-free solder, but not always. Usually, if you look closely at the joints you can tell. But, here again not always. Also, the solder work bench is ESD compliant.
For each joint repaired, I first remove the old solder with a vacuum handpiece, which if lead free will require a lot of heat, and the use of flux (usually I try RA first) tacky or liquid. I don't usually add solder to repair a joint unless I know from the OEM module supplier the type of solder used in production, and I am surprised at the adoption of lead-free solders in many of these critical subassemblies using SAC305 or other common lead free solders. So, even if I know the type of lead-free solder used, I will just remove the older solder so as to not expose the board to the higher lead-free temperatures when soldering.
Having removed the old solder I can now use the solder and flux that I feel will work best. I like to use Eutectic Tin-Lead solder, and for an ABS module RA or RMA flux. The solder wire flux should match the applied liquid or tacky flux. I have many different flux types available to me as well as solder wire and paste. On a critical unit repair, after repairing the solder joints I then clean the flux off of the PCB. If you have a camera attachment on your microscope you can take a before and after image to keep for your records. It's good to have pictures especially if you plan on talking to the OEM you now have something of value for them and they will be more helpful in supplying information. Usually, about component questions and system failure modes.
what chem do you use to clean the flux off the board afterwards?
@@glasser2819 Cleaning of the board after repair should mimic, at least as much as possible, how the original PCB assembly was manufactured (soldered). Also, the cleaning approach also depends on what components were replaced. If the component replaced was a BGA or a fine pitched QFP or perhaps a QFN, then there is flux underneath the package or between leads, the best cleaning approach is an approved solvent for the board, depends on what is on the board, cleaned in a heated ultrasonic cleaner (dried in an oven and let cool before test). If there are components that are not compatible with submersion then a spray cleaner can be used and depends on the flux used. You will need a stereo zoom microscope to see how effective the board has been cleaned, and after cleaning inspect the solder joints.
If we look at a simple SMT device replacement you can get good cleaning results using IPA (isopropyl alcohol) and an acid brush.
In a lot of ways the repair process is an extension of the original manufacturing process. You are trying to understand the solder and flux used and the soldering profile, in that during repair you may have to preheat the PCB to reduce peak temperatures and relieve stressing the PCB.
Unfortunately, automotive electronic control modules fall under IPC category 3, which is the highest level or performance.
Hey, you seem to really know your stuff. Do you offer repairs on customers ABS modules? I think my needs a solder reflow but not sure yet. Let me know if you take stuff by mail. Thanks
How much you charge to do that?
Awesome video man. I had my ABS light on my 2005 GMC Yukon XL SLE 1500 4x4. Exchanged both front assembly hubs plus wheel speed sensors. ABS light went off, but now I have a vibrating/thumping noise which I can feel and hear on the brake pedal when I am coming to a stop. It only happens when I get to 10 mph and under. Besides that the truck runs smooth. Anyone has an idea of what the issue can be?
Hello. From reading your comment/question it appears that this vibrating/thumping noise wasn't present prior to you installing new front hub assemblies. Logic would thus suggest that it's being caused by something that's now different than before changing the hubs. Since the new hubs/bearings are very unlikely to be faulty, and they are held in a precise fixed location with bolts and the socket in the spindle that they fit into, i wouldn't think the hubs are the culprit. The only other thing i can think of is your brake rotors. If you didn't tighten the wheel lug nuts down evenly and gradually all the way around, it can result in a slightly warped rotor that will cause a fluctuating pulse when applying braking and which can often be felt thru the peddle. I'm not totally sure, but it may be that it's more noticeable at low speeds. I would suggest starting there....pull your wheels off, pop the rotor off and rotate it by a couple of stud places (just to give it a better chance to reset and straighten/flatten out) and then put wheel back on. Be mindful to just very lightly snug them all down before going thru a gradual and even tightening routine, making at least 2 (3 or 4 is better) passes en route to getting them fully torqued down to spec. Probably safest to assume both are causing the issue and so redo both left and right side. I hope this helps.
@@botchvinik8668 thank you…the issue was there before changed the assembly hub. But, it did have the ABS and brake lights on. Now the lights are off. Also, when I let go of the steering wheel, the truck starts to move to the right as I am braking on those low speeds of 10 mph and under. I did noticed that on both rotors there was rust build up on the inside of them only……where the brake pad makes contact with the rotors. That was there before I changed the hubs. I did grind them down but there was still some rust. Not sure if that is the issue. As far as making sure to tighten every lug nut when reinstalling the tires and rotors….yes, I have done what you suggested. Issue is still there. Now the ABS light and brake lights come on ones in a while when I drive but turn off once I shut the truck off. Little vibration has not gone away when coming coming to a stop.
You can get little pieces of rust or dirt on the wheel speed sensor or the tone ring. Brakes work fine until you get below about 5-10 mph. If you let off and put the brakes on again they will work fine to stop. It's reading different wheel speeds .
As a 05' Chevy Blazer owner that has no electrical background Or money lol chasing a parasitic draw that may or may not be part of the abs light and brake light --- Last owner simply pulled out the fuse ....I hear a commonly overlooked thing is not the sensor But the wire the sensor plugs into and 6 to 8 inches past is a butt connector from the factory that corrodes green And cuts off power Cheap fix But you are going to want the tire off to play around there
sounds like your pump stays running. This could either be this repair our the relay itself inside is bad. I dont usually remove the old solder just add some fresh solder. That being said...removing the old solder first wont hurt anything.
Great job, but should have wiped off access sealant when done.
It'd be nice if there was a close-up of what the cracks look like in this particular case.
just recently upgraded my camera setup...ill post a new one next time i get one for repair
How much should I charge for this job
Issue I have is remember kids don't get bloody always cut towards a buddy!
I charge them every time, regardless if it fixed their issues because what they are paying for is my time. I do the work, they figure out their problem.
Cloe up on the board could help see the circuit
My fav part of video was cat 😺😁
Don’t the have to be go calibrated! ?
Can you do mine?
I have a 2006 Kia Sportage that is undriveable due to a defective ABS Module (according to Kia dealership) The vehicle is in good, usable condition, except for the abs. Anyone out there interested in giving a go at repairing? Tks.
I knew it was vibration issue, those long country limerock roads will guarantee this on any ABS truck eventually. It pays to know how to solder.
Mine has no screws i can see. Have you opened those?
Yes some those don't have screws
@@AutomotiveElectronics i couldn't see how it comes apart. Looks "potted". Do you repair those?
I'm hear over 50 lol thanks
Rrazor knife: always cut TOWARD your spleen!
What state are you located in
His channel says San Antonio TX
Many more steps to actually rebuild these correctly. Muat break the down completely with bidirectional test bench. . Those 6 are coils def not gforce sensors
This video wasn't meant to teach you every single possible failure point and the repair. Of course there ae failures that fall beyond the scope of this video. It was meant to show an effective repair for probably 98+% of them that can be fixed this simply and at home. Hardly anyone watching has a bi direction test bench or sophisticated (expensive) equipment. My intent is to help DIYers that are short on cash or just like to fix there own stuff. If your comment is meant to educate me then please contact me …I never meant to imply that I know everything and I'm always open to learning from others.
@@AutomotiveElectronics I thank you Sir for taking the time to produce this video.
@tbbainter777 yeah and since you know everything and everything is by the book with you, use them coils by their proper name aka solenoids
How do you test it after repairing it? seems like an odd business , just guess?
you can test connections through a multimeter but ultimately you have to install it to completely verify.
Hey would you repair mine if i mail it to you
Well, I got the rare "non fixer". Should I go buy a lottery ticket?
Some of them arnt screwed in.
This is NOT a fix for a constant running ABS pump motor! This will fix a C0265 for the relay not engaging but this unit (by description) has a failed relay!
What causes the constant running pump problem?
Your killing me. I learned how to do this repair 11 years ago from a youtube that was super low quality but the guy killed it on the info. Had zero soldering skills but have had much practice over the last 10 years with guitar repair and 3000 lbs printers. I gotta ask you to start out with, "WHY IN THE HELL DID YOU TAKE ALL THOSE T8S OUT?"
For the love of Zues, that was a waste of time. Just use a razor knife and cut the silicone holding the two halves together. To my knowledge, there are 6 main points that cause the failure. I fixed them, and they lasted 4 years. Got the light again and was too lazy to take it out again which is the actual hard part on my GMC yukon, although I have better tools now so not as difficult as the first time. Its fiddly since you have to unscrew the T20s that are facing up with only about 8 inches clearance from the floorboard.
PPeople, do not take all those screws out, just the 4 to remove it from your car. you're welcome. Oh, and as long as you don't jam the knife too deep, no worries.
58 here
What is with your audio? It sounds pretty bad.
Yeah everyone can do that one let’s show the 325 with the plugs on top where the Kelsey’s hayes name is 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I might have the model wrong but there are videos of this job all over RUclips but zero none of the one I’m taking about strange but Orwell
meow
Whia, Wera, KNIPEX tools, not Harbor Freight ....come on.
LOL....Screwdrivers? If it makes you feel better i have a bunch from all over. I save the big money expenditures for tools that are heavy use...Drills -impacts-hydraulics etc. Harbor freight is fine for screwdrivers...
@@AutomotiveElectronics Big difference when ya use them all day, and get used to stuff that lasts, and fits in your hand like it belongs there, I've had cheap screwdrivers and wrenches, pliers, which is why I use the good stuff NOW, there is a BIG difference, yes there is. the way Knipex wire strippers function, compared to Ideal, Klein, is night and day, Knipex is better...the way they grip nuts and bolts with their unique design adj wrenches, ya won't go back to a Crescent, or Channel lock, or Klein...especially not any really low end crud like Harbour freight
you convinced me on the wire strippers...I thought you were talking about the screwdrivers. I lose so many screwdrivers for some reason id rather have 10 cheap ones than 1 good one that I cant find...lol. I'm getting old ...cant remember where I put things last....especially reading glasses so I keep them everywhere.
Fix mine please
No problem...just give us a call
Hey Kelsey, I have the four deadly lights on my 2010 Town and Country: ESP, Brake, ABS, TSC. How can i isolate the cause? The speedometer is jumping up and down. Module? Wheel abs sensor? Transmission speed sensor? Where to start?
Clean a the grounds..