Authentic video, everything from the caliper falling, the flashlight falling, the wrench breaking, bolts located in near impossible areas to reach and talking to yourself made for a true to life version of how auto repairs realistically turn out. Good job
Thanks for airing all the ups and downs of this repair, nothing goes according to script and I'm glad you didn't edit out the tongue ties and even the whistling. You're clearly a pro, but you make it seem like a normal guy could do this as well. You're an asset to 1A auto. Give this guy a raise!
I really appreciate how this is presented as a realistic job, where you can't get to bolts, the bolts are rusted and seized, tools break, etc. All the things a normal do-it-yourselfer (and even a mechanic) have to face doing a job like this. I hate car repair videos that say, "Remove these 3 bolts" and they all just spin right out because they are working on a new car, or you can tell they already got them freed up before the video.
I've been doing most of my car repairs on my own for the last 20 plus years, and no, it is NEVER easy, a supposedly 20 minute job can turn into a couple of days, what usually can go wrong WILL go wrong, your videos are excellent!!!!
We mechanics in the north deal with rust everyday. Much easier to take the whole knuckle off, then the bearing. One of the best real-time videos I've seen dealing with this issue. Great diagnoses.
Much respect for NOT EDITING OUT ALL THE PROBLEMS THAT CAN OCCUR IN REPAIRING VEHICLES. I KNOW WE ALL BEEN THERE.I MUST SAY YOU HANDLED THE BREAKING OF YOUR TOOL A LOT BETTER THAN I WOULD HAVE! NICE JOB AS TO YOUR STEP BY STEP DEMO. I AM IN THE PROCESS OF DOING THE SAME REPAIR ON A G6 BOTH FRONTS AND IT SUCKS!
Most enjoyable video I’ve seen in a long time! When I see a mech with a lift and air tools and $$$ tools struggling like I do, it does my heart good! Most honest and realistic repair video you could hope to see. This is what working on machines is really like!
Minimum 2X Jack stands and at least one lifting jack in situ. At least 3X points of support and also shove the removed wheel under as extra precaution. Don't forget to chock the wheels on the road, both forward and reverse. If you do this you will never die while working under the vehicle!
This is a tremendous video. It shows the terrific detective work that happens to diagnose the issue from start to finish, the series of problems that can and do occur in repair (broken ratchet in this case) and what a competent mechanic does to overcome problematic situations that are usually certain to arise. Five stars out of five to the mechanic who knows what he's doing and explains it proficiently and to the videographer standing applause for the excellent camera work. I've gone through the process myself of replacing rear wheel bearings and relate to a lot of what this video shows. Thanks
Loved the honesty and detail in going through the whole process,including the difficulties encountered. I am totally ignorant when it comes to mechanics but as I have an ABS light problem, and hearing the cost of replacing the Ford C-MAX module braught me to checking it out on RUclips. There were some helpful videos but by far this is the best in helping me understand what I may be up against when my car is taken ito the local garage. Now praying it is a simple fault or the bearing and not the whole ABS module. So big thank you for uploading for It's been really very helpful!
I loved this. You showed the good and the bad. The broken tools, the bad angles to remove bolts. You also showed something that you may not know. The long bolt should've been in place before you tightened everything else down. I will remember this forever. I don't know how many times I've had to undo what I've already done in order to get it right. To make everything work properly. Sure feels good when you get it right, though. I don't know if you ever blew your top during this endeavor, but if you never did...KUDOS!
Bro this has got to be the best video I have ever seen! !!! What impressed me the most was your patience and after that that you had the tools to do the job! I'm fixing to tackle an intermittent abs light. Thank You!!!
I have had trouble with the ABS and Control Track coming on after oil changes at a local GM dealership. I had bought a Buick from them with the GM certified used vehicle with the certification. I was given free oil changes for one year. My first service went fine but after the 2nd, 3rd and 4th services my trouble lights come for the control systems. Each time they replaced the rear spindle assembly because of faulty magnetic sensor strips that are on the outside of the bearing races. First the right side went out and then the left. The third time it was the right side again all in less than 12000 miles. The last one I took to a friend who owns his own automotive business and is certified. I had him keep the spindle till I could look at it. When I looked at the magnetic tape strip around the back of the spindle it had several places where the tape was cut across the width of the tape leaving pieces missing. This was suspicious and the fact that it always happened that the lights come on after an oil change on the way home. The one that was replaced by my friend and the other has given me no problems. I would also think that an engineer could have come up with a more dependable solution for these pickup strips instead of putting magnetic tape strips on a bearing that is mounted in a casting that you have to replace a complet assembly to fix. I guess that like so much of today's vehicles it is made to sell parts so they can keep you paying for the vehicle even after the loan is paid off.
Loved this videos because it shows what usually happens, at least to me. Not everything goes smoothly, stuff breaks, you have to beat things out but eventually get the job done. Great video
I go through a process: 1. Enthusiasm. I’m gonna get this done! 2. This is different from the RUclips video I watched. 3. Jesus Christ this is a piece of junk! I’m just going to trade it in. 4. Cussing. Lots and lots of cussing. Usually some blood and sweat too. 5. I give up. 6. Finally get it done. 7. I knew I could do it all along.
well, I gotta say, as a lot of people have commented- this video was DEFINITELY not scripted. When you took off the brake caliper and just rested it on the control arm- I said to myself- "poor brake hose- pain will soon come" :) With that said, I'm glad you didn't edit that out along with ALL the things us weekend warriors go through; searching for tools, stuff falling, etc. And, we do it without a lift. In the end- you got the job done and you didn't just throw a bunch of parts at the problem. You took the time to diagnose and then replaced ONLY what was actually defective. Thanks for making this vid, thanks for keeping it real.
My first thought was that calper is going to fall it always does unless you tie it up. Also I always undo the centre hub nut before taking off the caliper and brake disc. The reason is if the hub nut is seized you can apply the brake to hold the drive shaft.
First of all after realizing it needing a rear brake hub I would have removed the half shaft in order to remove the brake hub to have plane view of your hub bolts also always secure your brake caliper. Unprofessional to beat the hub that way. I'm just saying
@martin kennedy, yes, I saw that caliper fall coming. Wire coat hangers are great help. If no damage to the hoses from the fall he dodged a bullet for sure!
Loved the video! I have an ABS light on.....thought I would simply replace the sensor...but you've enlightened me to another possibility...the exciter ring! Will check it all out. Thanks for this video. Very helpful.
Love how you kept the struggle footage in here, it sucks but helps us know we aren't the only ones to struggle and ways to get through it! Awesome video!
Great video! Thanks for showing all the potential issues that could happen while doing this yourself. A great reminder, "what could go wrong, can go wrong!"
I'm so incredibly affirmed by watching your struggles and some of the comments above...! I routinely take +60% of the estimated times, break tools, stop and stop because I didn't have the right tool or discover a gasket or bolt I didn't see... Break a bolt or tool, smack my knuckles lose a bolt---what can, does and will go wrong for me, at least--every time. Prolly my fave video yet👊🏾
+@a.doubleproductions2271 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This is exactly why I hate working on cars. You are a better man than I am. I start losing my s*** when stuck on the same part for too long. Great video as usual. It will definitely help me figure out what is wrong with my abs on my Tacoma.
One of The BEST repair videos on the web. 1A Auto has great videos, but this one...the authenticity of what really goes on is refreshing and informative.. Awesome. The only thing missing is some bad language!
Its not needed as long as you dont mess with the tie rods ..it seems he may only had affected the camber on the strut removal but most cars are already camber set up once you bolt it
Wow, this is a really, really great video. From start to finish; test drive, diagnosis (with scan tool), visual inspection and finding the problem. The repair was very realistic. No loosened bolts before the video. He actually fought to get the bolts and parts off. We've all been there before! Installed the new part, got the bolts started first, then tightened - and of course fought, because of the odd angles. Used the correct antisieze and thread locker. Torqued everything down. Test drive and scan tool check. A couple things I noticed, from years of turning a wrench. 1. Sometimes it pays to soak rusty stuff down with a penetrating oil. Yes, it can get messy, but bolts break free easier and there's less chance of snapping a bolt off. 2. It seems like he could've removed the shock. It would've been much more open and easier to get to the three stubborn bolts - both for removal and installation. 3. When he torqued the long bolt (holds the control arm to the spindle), he should've torqued the nut vs the bolt. Using a torque wrench on the bolt may give a bad reading, because he's fighting the friction of the bolt as he tries to turn it. The nut would've given a more accurate reading. 4. Tightening the axle shaft nut. Pulling the parking brake would've held the rotor in place - then he could've tightened the nut without using the bar to hold the lug nuts still.
I love his videos and advice.ive watched a lot videos on RUclips and some of the people don't know nothing they just get lucky I've been a mechanic for over 30 years and Scotty gives you real mechanic data and information and saves you a lot of money.i have to take my hat off to you Scotty thanks and keep up the good work.
Great video and your diagnostic skills are brilliant. Can't believe how much corrosion you have to deal with. I live in western Australia and never seen that corrosion on the under body parts even on vehicles that are 20 plus years old.
Your detailed video surely helps this senior citizen to better appreciate and fully understand a mechanic’s difficulty to easily access and complete a thorough job as well as one’s hourly fees.👨🏻🔧 👏
Great video luv the fact that you do everything pretty much in real time to show the realistic side of little annoying things that can happen when dealing with rusty parts and hardware.Nice job thumbs up ...
This video, in all its glory, is a perfect example of what we go through. Image this scenario in any driveway across America, with a jack stand and some shade tree mechanic tools. This video is the sole reason I just subscribed to this channel. Thank you for showing the REAL version!
Excellent video as always. Something else to consider. If you tried all of these tips and can’t find the problem, check the wires going to the ABS module and fuse box. My problem turned out to be two wires that had broken from the connector under the fuse box due to corrosion.
The last time I did one I drove out one of the wheel studs and I put a longer nut and bolt through it and used it to press out the bearing from the hub mount no pounding no hammering just run to Bolt in a way it goes ...........falls right off! And I didn’t need to do this job I started watching it because my ABS and my traction control light stability track come on go off come on go whenever they feel like it but the brakes and the traction work fine but I started watching the video and because of the professional and unrehearsed nature of the way you filmed this I was captivated to watch the ending great job I will watch more of your stuff thank you❤️🇺🇸
Yep just like when I do any of this kind of work,guessing they use salt on the roads where this car resided,most of the cars in the UK where I live look like that does on the underside. Very realistic job there. Well done.
I love your repair videos. Iinstalled a window regulator for my old Jeep Grand Cherokee with your help. Now, I have a vehicle you don't have parts for! A 2014 Mobility Ventures MV-1, a special disabled vehicle, no longer made. It has ABS issues like this video, and a former MV-1 service garage (75 miles away!) still had the specific scanner needed... regular OBD II won't pick up the codes. It is basically a Ford van chassis with a 4.6 V8, mostly Ford electronics, with a Chevy Camaro rear end. Their diagnosis also pointed out the left rear hub, but also said I need a brake light switch. I've already installed new front hubs, calipers, and pads plus rotors on all four wheels. I did not replace (yet) the rear hubs or calipers, due to lack of money... an old guy on Social Security, I do what I can. And now I'm told that I also will need front struts and sway bar bushings. The rear shocks are air-ride and easily replaced. But the struts are hard to find. Have you folks ever worked on one of these MV-1s?
Great video, I love the unedited format. It shows what REALLY happens wbile doing mechanical work. What is the name of the air tool you use to take away the rust? It seems ti come in handy quite a bit.
ABS light on and Stabiltrak on. I love this video and can't thank you enough as this video shows what's involved from the beginning to the end so much appreciated. Thanks to your video, now I have a clearer picture what the bearing is and how labor intense this job is fixed the proper way. You are the BEST!!!!
Makes you want to be a mechanic... amazing job... What i love about this channel is that it has the feel of a ''commercial'' video, but personalized.... just awesome, great work!
Authentic and real deal video. The good ,the bad and the ugly - no editing here. #workshopreality. Awesome mechanic , good on ya mate *** One thing I'd like to advise our mechanic is to never wear gloves when using the wheel wire brush - I've witnessed some really nasty injuries when the gloves gets caught by the wire
Thank you! Ihave a 2002 Nissan Frontier, and the ABS light always comes on with all the identical issues you presented. I am getting under the vehicle Saturday to check that magnetic stripping around that piece.
I have a envoy that when i was coming to a stop the abs would kick on. I plug my solus scan tool and notice that my right front speed sensor was showing different speed than the other 3 wheels. So basically the sensor was telling the abs that wheel was locking up so it activated the abs. I figured it was the bearing inside the hub that was defective. I replaced it and abs was back to normal. I pretty much did the same diagnosis you did on this video.
Excellent I'm glad you didn't edit out all the hassles of doing the mechanics of this type of work. From the calipers vibrating off where you had them hung. To the bolt that's hard to reach, and then the ratchet breaking. Just perfect. Now imagine doing this at home in the driveway. Without all the conveniences of the lift and air tools. Besides all the talking you do to yourself and the nuts and bolts. Got to love it. Hahaha, all so much fun. Nice job thanks for leaving in the reality of it all.
Refreshing to watch a realistic mechanical video! 1) Right off the top you find something unexpected left for you from some unknown soldier who worked on the car before you. (Zip tie holding wire to shock absorber) In this case, it wasn't hurting anything ... but I've found some really stupid stuff done by people who had no clue as to what they were doing, and no business doing it. 2) Then you have bolts to remove which CANNOT be reached with an impact wrench (Plan A), even after removing mounting bolts from unrelated parts in the vicinity. 3) So you get a hand tool on the offending bolt to remove it (Plan B), and the bolt is so stubborn that you snap the head off of your ratchet. As you said ... "Perfect" ! (I feel ya') 4) Finally, a more heavy duty tool (Plan C) won't fit as well as the now-broken one did, but will access the bolt by using an extension, and gets the job done. As a retired Master Mechanic, I've had countless instances where ONE bolt caused the job to take twice as long as what a quick glance would cause you to think. It happens so regularly that I began calling this unknown but expected bolt the "Bitch Bolt", and including it in repair time estimates ... as in, "45 minutes without a Bitch Bolt, but don't count on that being the case". Of course, this roused curiosity from those higher up the Food Chain, but after a few instances of checking to see what was holding up progress, they quickly learned what Mechanics often go through to accomplish what SEEMS like a simple task. Modern machinery is designed for ease of assembly, NOT for ease of disassembly and repair. Particularly field repair with a large crew of highly paid skilled laborers standing around twiddling their thumbs, getting paid to do nothing while their crane or other necessary piece of Equipment is being fixed. It's high-pressure with high responsibility and Big Bosses breathing down your neck ... but I regularly pulled a mechanical miracle out of my butt, which allowed me to say my most favorite thing to say while on the job ... "That's why I get paid the Big Bucks"! Most mechanical videos seem to go out of their way to make something look simple and easy, causing people to attempt repairs which they have no business trying to do. After they have totally screwed things up ... they call me. Which gets annoying at times, when I'm retired and trying to enjoy life. So I TRULY appreciated this live-action video with warts and bruises and all of the unexpected little things which pop up routinely while doing mechanical repairs. THANK YOU !
THANK YOU SO MUCH! WHAT A GREAT VIDEO! I know this is the REAL DEAL video for sure! Now I know even the best mechanics have problems at times. Next time I'm struggling to fix something on my truck, I'll think back to this and smile, and be grateful for having watched this video! The amazing part is even with all the problems, he finished in about an hour...I doubt anyone could do much better, all things considered. Semper Fidelis! CWO4 USMCR 17 Feb 1969 - 1 August 2004
Well done and informative would be nice to see more of these full length diag and repair vids, as always excellent work. Working on vehicles that are exposed to winter road salts/rust welded parts creates additional challenges as seen here 👍🏽
Glad to see a real life presentation. To many times you see where videos are edited so as not to show problems incurred along the way. By the way, isn't that ratchet lifetime warranty? Thanks for the video
I just take it to the dealer. I had my on for over a year, finally took it in. Master cylinder was leaking. $800. Small leak plus I dont drive much but 3,000 a year. Thats why I drag my out for a year . Just got tried of the Christmas lights 🙃 Note: love your show. Saved me over thousands
I enjoy that you cleaned everything up. I live in the North and worked in a shop for awhile. You wouldn't believe how many issues people caused by working on their own vehicles and not properly cleaning the affected area before assembly. Great job showing people how to remove without a puller as well.
Nice video-- very well done. One question: Instead of using a hammer to loosen and remove the stubborn wheel hub assembly, why not use a flange type hub puller with a slide hammer? This tool is designed specifically for this purpose and probably would have removed the old hub more quickly and easily than was the case using the hammer. Thanks for preparing and posting very well done and informative instructional videos!
This is great and all unless you run into the problem that I have with my $2,000 Snap-On scanner not communicating with the ABS module on my 03 Ford Mustang Mach1. After many hours of research, Most Mach 1 owners with this issue have concluded that the ABS module is bad. Issue with this is that the Mach 1 uses the Cobra module .This item was discontinued years ago. I have purchased 3 replacements @ $250-$350 each, with the guarantee that the replacement would work. Those prices were ridiculous to not fix the issue. Even after explaining to the sales clerk that the regular mustang 99-04 would not work, these are what showed up at my shop. Another issue is that as soon as you break the seal and install electronics of that kind, there is no taking it back as a return or exchange. Specifically has to have "COBRA" on the housing. Cant seem to find them anymore. At least not at a price that I can afford.
Wish I had a nice lift and tools in my studio. Awesome job repairing this old rust bucket. Thank God I live in the south, we rarely see so much rust on the under carriage.
It’s good to watch a truly realistic video showing all the difficulties as they happen! All diy’s should watch this before even thinking about tackling such a differcult job Well done! The only thing that’s missing is the cursing!
Really nice, professionally-done & helpful just like all your other 1A videos One question I have is during the hub removal / BFH smashing session (starting around 24:25), would a hub puller have worked ?
I am wondering if you wont damage the axle or pull it off from the transmission by hammering the spindle with a hammer like that???? i have seem special sliding hammer for that purpose
Yeah...thought the same thing. They should use the cheaper diag readers like most of us DIYerz would have and use! Most of us would not have 2000 - 3000 dollar readers.
As a professional photographer for 49 years, that scanner cost about what one of my cheaper cameras cost. I have spent 140k on just film processor back in the day. The bottom line is the bottom line. If the equipment is paying for itself, it doesn’t matter what it cost. If your competitors has one and his product or service is better, then the investment is worth it. It is very hard for a DIY person or a hobbyist to justify. Now on the other hand the right to repair is forefront on the minds of many. If the manufacturers purposely, as many are, making it more difficult through patent of parts which would not be thought of as leading technology such as headlights or taillight lenses, therefore increasing the repair cost. This practice should be made known. The right to repair at a reasonable cost of something you pay big money to own is an ever increasing concern.
Nice job on this it has changed the way I go about fault finding ABS issues. You might want to mention that a lot of bearings have the abs reluctor build into the bearing these days. They need to be fitted the right way around of course. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video, I'm doing my Subaru outback front wheel hub bearing ABS light on,14mm bolt had to use a 13mm rusty 287k 2011. Still have to get the hub apart but no problem.
Excellent tutorial. Next job, try applying 50/50 acetone/ATF fluid as a release agent and let it sit for about 15 minutes.. Nothing is better than that. The acetone is the carrying agent which allows the diluted ATF fluid to penetrate into the pores of the rust. This can be used to free up any rusted bolt or part. Also could you have used a hub puller to avoid the hammering?
My ABS light is on because I pulled the fuse after it almost caused me to get broadsided. The left front wheel skidded in some chat at a stop sign on a country road and that turned off the brakes to the other three wheels and I wound up half way across the intersection. Then the car on the cross road had to swerve to keep from hitting me.
In replacing the hub assembly on my Chevy Silverado, I recall those three bolts coming out pretty hard. One in particular was hard to get a socket and breaker bar on it
I brought in my 2018 Sequoia to a Toyota dealership. I was experiencing electrical issues. The windows, the radio and the shifter were not working. They normally charge $140 for diagnostic, but this time they charged me $420 for diagnostic because they said it was 3 different areas to diagnose. Finally they discovered it was a couple of blown fuses & missing fuse. Did I get scammed?
How and/or why were you missing a fuse? Also, what caused the other two fuses to blow? There has to be a lot more to this story. If anyone ripped you off it's the person that pulled and didn't replace the missing fuse .
It they fixed the problem that was causing the blown fuses then it was money well spent. Having multiple blown fuses and a missing fuse for a 2018 Toyota sound like a time consuming riddle. IMO: Appears that it is not a normal 2018 Toyota as if it was in an accident or abused.
Your story taught me always go 2 different places before go to dealership, they are dishonest , It's simple. Never trust, find trusted mechanic, I know it's not easy either.
This was absolutely a great video! It was so useful and also you showed the good, bad and the ugly. I am glad you kept everything in the video too. When the socket wrench broke I completely died of laughter! Your energy is great for these videos. Thank you for all your hard work and detailed videos.
OMG. This is the first 1A Auto video where you showed clearly how often a tough issue can come up removing any component. It's never as simple as your typical videos make it look. Nice to have a lift. Add a circle light to the camera lens. We clearly see you thinking. You're definitely a mechanic, not just a spokesmodel.
I just went through this. My escalade has ac Delco oem hubs and timken abs wheel speed sensors. I purchased abs sensors off Amazon. Fit perfect to the eye. But, it didnt go in enough to be close to the axle. Abs and tc lights came on. Very dangerous driving. Random hard braking . Anyway. I put the original abs sensor in. Started it up. Lights still on. Tried disconnecting battery. Lights still on. Drove down road 30 seconds. Lights off and ecm reset abs automatically. Lessen i learned ? Im not an oem fanboy. But, its obvious that the hub being oem, required an approved oem sensor.
Great video, I have abs problems on my 2005 Dodge ram1500, I like to do simple repairs on my own. After watching the video I know this is going to a real mechanic as I don.t have the proper tools and this is my only vehicle. Also being 72 and don't have the strength I used have anymore.
lots of indicated rust all round its seems no rust protection being applied to the bottom side, kindly recommend to the owner to the anti rust shops, good jobs guys. more power to your channel
This happened to me along with my gear shifter getting stuck on 2017 Camry SE, could my problem be different than having to change out bearings? Love the video on details of diagnosis and complete guide on how to fix/replace.
For once an honest mechanic. You showed the entire process and not edit out the hard parts. Most of the time things turn into a royal pain in the ass. Couple things to mention. You hit the corner of the backing plate twice. I would of straightened it before putting back on. And when removing the axle bearing. Instead of beating the hell out of it. Take a 36 inch pipe wrench and grip the flange. A couple good heavy yanks and they come right off. You might have to put the long bolt back in the bottom arm just a bit to keep everything rigid. Great video!
Someone on a forum suggested that this may be what is going on with my Audi 2.0 TFSI. My recent symptoms have been only a few times and at random, EPC and ABS light comes on for roughly 10 seconds. Vehicle seems to almost go into a limp mode during that short time. More often, my RPMs will surge, especially going down hill, they also will freeze (almost like they are stuck in a certain gear) and it has lack of power from stop position and some uphill. Only fault codes that seem to be coming back up are for Vehicle Speed Sensor. One shop kept the car fo 3 days, first stating they couldn't seem to find nor reproduce any issues that I was experiencing, then they said the timing is off by 2 teeth. Granted, I just replaced timing chains, guards, tensioners, couple months prior, and it did not have these issues before that when the timing was really bad. Never had VSS fault codes at that time. Only all the cam crank correlation and position sensor codes. It feels like a totally different thing than previously when it was a timing issue. Anyone have some insight on this that may be able to help me out? I greatly appreciate it!
55 dislikes. What the hell. Love this video. No quick do this and do that. You actually showed how in real time and, of course, a little frustration. But in all. Great video
Great video, showing some of the different problems that can pop up, im glad that you didn't edit them out. I'm not a mechanic, but after seeing how much force you had to apply to get the bolt all the way through the bottom (control arm?) that the torque wrench should have been used on the side with the nut, not the head of the bolt. Plus, it always amazes me how factories and/or mechanics will forego the use of around $0.12 of anti-seize compound failing to look far enough into the future to see hundreds, perhaps thousands of dollars in labor/parts that could have been prevented down the road...
When the universe is working against you: This man was getting hot under the colar as the vid progressed. I could tell because it happens to me ALL of the time. Mechanics is very frustrating and will literally make us delirious and laugh uncontrollably. I don’t know why, but I found this vid to be funny.. 🤦🏼♀️😂😆🤪
AT 8:54 THEY CHARGE ALL THIS $$ FOR VEHICLES NOW ADAYS AND THEY NEVER UNDERCOAT THEM FROM RUST CORROSION; WHAT EVER HAPPEN TO THIS OPTION FROM THE PAST.
Yeah, my first impression when I saw that was "hoo-boy, we've entered FLAVOR COUNTRY". Doing a proper undercoat job as the car rolls off the factory line would keep it nice and rust-free for at least twice as long. Unfortunately, cars are built to fail predictably, just after the warranty period expires, in order to get extra profit from sales of spare parts and repair services, as well as to generate sales of new cars. Planned obsolescence became a practice specifically because people would hang on to their stuff for too long, because it didn't break and the new models didn't offer enough improvement over the old ones to justify a switch. And at first, the "obsolescence" was mostly psychological pressure - "you're old-fashioned if you don't get the new car with the more aggressive body shape and the cool, new, unique color!" But these days, the expectation is that people will buy a new car every five years. Keep on consuming, so that revenue to the manufacturer is stable. This is what's slowly killing the planet, and it's why your car rusts out from under you no matter how well you try to maintain it.
I'm a subscriber since 2017 ,this is the best video going from to start to the last minute of this operation showing that it's not easy wheel bearing replacement specially when the car owners don't replace their suspension and brake system ,look at all the rust on that vehicle!!
I'd like to know how many colourful words were going through your mind when you tried to get that bolt out😆 cause I have quite a lot of them when it comes to stuck bolts😆😆. And as always these things happen to me a lot, so thanks for putting this video up to let us know it's not all smooth when it comes to your car👍
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Authentic video, everything from the caliper falling, the flashlight falling, the wrench breaking, bolts located in near impossible areas to reach and talking to yourself made for a true to life version of how auto repairs realistically turn out. Good job
Thanks for airing all the ups and downs of this repair, nothing goes according to script and I'm glad you didn't edit out the tongue ties and even the whistling. You're clearly a pro, but you make it seem like a normal guy could do this as well. You're an asset to 1A auto. Give this guy a raise!
I really appreciate how this is presented as a realistic job, where you can't get to bolts, the bolts are rusted and seized, tools break, etc. All the things a normal do-it-yourselfer (and even a mechanic) have to face doing a job like this. I hate car repair videos that say, "Remove these 3 bolts" and they all just spin right out because they are working on a new car, or you can tell they already got them freed up before the video.
I've been doing most of my car repairs on my own for the last 20 plus years, and no, it is NEVER easy, a supposedly 20 minute job can turn into a couple of days, what usually can go wrong WILL go wrong, your videos are excellent!!!!
Very true
You are absolutely right. Headlight change on MB required removing tire and inner fender well..
It always looks easy lol but this one ☝️ is something I’ll leave to the pros
Tut⁶you⁶þ try⁵5 tu⁷
Opening Samsung grand opening
Sounds like the wrench turning beat u up
We mechanics in the north deal with rust everyday.
Much easier to take the whole knuckle off, then the bearing.
One of the best real-time videos I've seen dealing with this issue.
Great diagnoses.
Much respect for DIY mechanics and professional auto techs in the northeast! The rust due to the weather makes EVERY job so challenging! Nice job!
Northeast repairs usually include other stuff connected to the one thing you have to fix.
Can of worms phrase comes up a lot lol
Definitely
Much respect for NOT EDITING OUT ALL THE PROBLEMS THAT CAN OCCUR IN REPAIRING VEHICLES. I KNOW WE ALL BEEN THERE.I MUST SAY YOU HANDLED THE BREAKING OF YOUR TOOL A LOT BETTER THAN I WOULD HAVE! NICE JOB AS TO YOUR STEP BY STEP DEMO. I AM IN THE PROCESS OF DOING THE SAME REPAIR ON A G6 BOTH FRONTS AND IT SUCKS!
Most enjoyable video I’ve seen in a long time! When I see a mech with a lift and air tools and $$$ tools struggling like I do, it does my heart good! Most honest and realistic repair video you could hope to see. This is what working on machines is really like!
Single mom here I’m immediately subscribing !! You make this transparent . Very much appreciated
Imagine how much harder this would have been without the lift. For us backyard mechanics this is a nightmare repair.
Minimum 2X Jack stands and at least one lifting jack in situ.
At least 3X points of support and also shove the removed wheel under as extra precaution.
Don't forget to chock the wheels on the road, both forward and reverse.
If you do this you will never die while working under the vehicle!
A real mechanic at work, no edits and cuts. I like it, just like that
This is a tremendous video. It shows the terrific detective work that happens to diagnose the issue from start to finish, the series of problems that can and do occur in repair (broken ratchet in this case) and what a competent mechanic does to overcome problematic situations that are usually certain to arise. Five stars out of five to the mechanic who knows what he's doing and explains it proficiently and to the videographer standing applause for the excellent camera work. I've gone through the process myself of replacing rear wheel bearings and relate to a lot of what this video shows. Thanks
Loved the honesty and detail in going through the whole process,including the difficulties encountered. I am totally ignorant when it comes to mechanics but as I have an ABS light problem, and hearing the cost of replacing the Ford C-MAX module braught me to checking it out on RUclips. There were some helpful videos but by far this is the best in helping me understand what I may be up against when my car is taken ito the local garage. Now praying it is a simple fault or the bearing and not the whole ABS module. So big thank you for uploading for It's been really very helpful!
I loved this. You showed the good and the bad. The broken tools, the bad angles to remove bolts. You also showed something that you may not know. The long bolt should've been in place before you tightened everything else down. I will remember this forever. I don't know how many times I've had to undo what I've already done in order to get it right. To make everything work properly. Sure feels good when you get it right, though. I don't know if you ever blew your top during this endeavor, but if you never did...KUDOS!
Bro this has got to be the best video I have ever seen! !!! What impressed me the most was your patience and after that that you had the tools to do the job! I'm fixing to tackle an intermittent abs light. Thank You!!!
I have had trouble with the ABS and Control Track coming on after oil changes at a local GM dealership. I had bought a Buick from them with the GM certified used vehicle with the certification. I was given free oil changes for one year. My first service went fine but after the 2nd, 3rd and 4th services my trouble lights come for the control systems. Each time they replaced the rear spindle assembly because of faulty magnetic sensor strips that are on the outside of the bearing races. First the right side went out and then the left. The third time it was the right side again all in less than 12000 miles. The last one I took to a friend who owns his own automotive business and is certified. I had him keep the spindle till I could look at it. When I looked at the magnetic tape strip around the back of the spindle it had several places where the tape was cut across the width of the tape leaving pieces missing. This was suspicious and the fact that it always happened that the lights come on after an oil change on the way home. The one that was replaced by my friend and the other has given me no problems. I would also think that an engineer could have come up with a more dependable solution for these pickup strips instead of putting magnetic tape strips on a bearing that is mounted in a casting that you have to replace a complet assembly to fix. I guess that like so much of today's vehicles it is made to sell parts so they can keep you paying for the vehicle even after the loan is paid off.
Loved this videos because it shows what usually happens, at least to me. Not everything goes smoothly, stuff breaks, you have to beat things out but eventually get the job done. Great video
You are absolutely right
happens to me too ....
I go through a process:
1. Enthusiasm. I’m gonna get this done!
2. This is different from the RUclips video I watched.
3. Jesus Christ this is a piece of junk! I’m just going to trade it in.
4. Cussing. Lots and lots of cussing. Usually some blood and sweat too.
5. I give up.
6. Finally get it done.
7. I knew I could do it all along.
👍👌👍
@@lesterparker1594 Always. 😑
well, I gotta say, as a lot of people have commented- this video was DEFINITELY not scripted. When you took off the brake caliper and just rested it on the control arm- I said to myself- "poor brake hose- pain will soon come" :) With that said, I'm glad you didn't edit that out along with ALL the things us weekend warriors go through; searching for tools, stuff falling, etc. And, we do it without a lift. In the end- you got the job done and you didn't just throw a bunch of parts at the problem. You took the time to diagnose and then replaced ONLY what was actually defective. Thanks for making this vid, thanks for keeping it real.
My first thought was that calper is going to fall it always does unless you tie it up.
Also I always undo the centre hub nut before taking off the caliper and brake disc.
The reason is if the hub nut is seized you can apply the brake to hold the drive shaft.
First of all after realizing it needing a rear brake hub I would have removed the half shaft in order to remove the brake hub to have plane view of your hub bolts also always secure your brake caliper. Unprofessional to beat the hub that way. I'm just saying
@martin kennedy, yes, I saw that caliper fall coming. Wire coat hangers are great help. If no damage to the hoses from the fall he dodged a bullet for sure!
Also, jacking/raising the rear suspension to at least neutral position might have given access to the bottom hub bolt.?
Loved the video! I have an ABS light on.....thought I would simply replace the sensor...but you've enlightened me to another possibility...the exciter ring! Will check it all out. Thanks for this video. Very helpful.
Is there a reason you didn't use any rust penetrant like Deep Creep or PB Blaster?
Love how you kept the struggle footage in here, it sucks but helps us know we aren't the only ones to struggle and ways to get through it! Awesome video!
Great video! Thanks for showing all the potential issues that could happen while doing this yourself. A great reminder, "what could go wrong, can go wrong!"
I'm so incredibly affirmed by watching your struggles and some of the comments above...!
I routinely take +60% of the estimated times, break tools, stop and stop because I didn't have the right tool or discover a gasket or bolt I didn't see... Break a bolt or tool, smack my knuckles lose a bolt---what can, does and will go wrong for me, at least--every time. Prolly my fave video yet👊🏾
+@a.doubleproductions2271 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This is exactly why I hate working on cars. You are a better man than I am. I start losing my s*** when stuck on the same part for too long. Great video as usual. It will definitely help me figure out what is wrong with my abs on my Tacoma.
One of The BEST repair videos on the web. 1A Auto has great videos, but this one...the authenticity of what really goes on is refreshing and informative.. Awesome. The only thing missing is some bad language!
Best video you've ever done. No yelling. (Sometimes fun.) Tremendous thinking. Do you need a front end alignment after all that?
Yes
Its not needed as long as you dont mess with the tie rods ..it seems he may only had affected the camber on the strut removal but most cars are already camber set up once you bolt it
Wow, this is a really, really great video. From start to finish; test drive, diagnosis (with scan tool), visual inspection and finding the problem.
The repair was very realistic. No loosened bolts before the video. He actually fought to get the bolts and parts off. We've all been there before! Installed the new part, got the bolts started first, then tightened - and of course fought, because of the odd angles. Used the correct antisieze and thread locker. Torqued everything down. Test drive and scan tool check.
A couple things I noticed, from years of turning a wrench.
1. Sometimes it pays to soak rusty stuff down with a penetrating oil. Yes, it can get messy, but bolts break free easier and there's less chance of snapping a bolt off.
2. It seems like he could've removed the shock. It would've been much more open and easier to get to the three stubborn bolts - both for removal and installation.
3. When he torqued the long bolt (holds the control arm to the spindle), he should've torqued the nut vs the bolt. Using a torque wrench on the bolt may give a bad reading, because he's fighting the friction of the bolt as he tries to turn it. The nut would've given a more accurate reading.
4. Tightening the axle shaft nut. Pulling the parking brake would've held the rotor in place - then he could've tightened the nut without using the bar to hold the lug nuts still.
+Greg Kimura Thanks for the feedback!
I love his videos and advice.ive watched a lot videos on RUclips and some of the people don't know nothing they just get lucky I've been a mechanic for over 30 years and Scotty gives you real mechanic data and information and saves you a lot of money.i have to take my hat off to you Scotty thanks and keep up the good work.
First time I've ever seen a socket wrench snap. That guy is a strong dude. Great video. Shows the other things that can go wrong during a repair.
Great video and your diagnostic skills are brilliant. Can't believe how much corrosion you have to deal with.
I live in western Australia and never seen that corrosion on the under body parts even on vehicles that are 20 plus years old.
Your detailed video surely helps this senior citizen to better appreciate and fully understand a mechanic’s difficulty to easily access and complete a thorough job as well as one’s hourly fees.👨🏻🔧 👏
Great video luv the fact that you do everything pretty much in real time to show the realistic side of little annoying things that can happen when dealing with rusty parts and hardware.Nice job thumbs up ...
This video, in all its glory, is a perfect example of what we go through. Image this scenario in any driveway across America, with a jack stand and some shade tree mechanic tools. This video is the sole reason I just subscribed to this channel. Thank you for showing the REAL version!
Excellent video as always. Something else to consider. If you tried all of these tips and can’t find the problem, check the wires going to the ABS module and fuse box. My problem turned out to be two wires that had broken from the connector under the fuse box due to corrosion.
The last time I did one I drove out one of the wheel studs and I put a longer nut and bolt through it and used it to press out the bearing from the hub mount no pounding no hammering just run to Bolt in a way it goes ...........falls right off! And I didn’t need to do this job I started watching it because my ABS and my traction control light stability track come on go off come on go whenever they feel like it but the brakes and the traction work fine but I started watching the video and because of the professional and unrehearsed nature of the way you filmed this I was captivated to watch the ending great job I will watch more of your stuff thank you❤️🇺🇸
Yep just like when I do any of this kind of work,guessing they use salt on the roads where this car resided,most of the cars in the UK where I live look like that does on the underside. Very realistic job there. Well done.
I love your repair videos. Iinstalled a window regulator for my old Jeep Grand Cherokee with your help. Now, I have a vehicle you don't have parts for! A 2014 Mobility Ventures MV-1, a special disabled vehicle, no longer made. It has ABS issues like this video, and a former MV-1 service garage (75 miles away!) still had the specific scanner needed... regular OBD II won't pick up the codes. It is basically a Ford van chassis with a 4.6 V8, mostly Ford electronics, with a Chevy Camaro rear end. Their diagnosis also pointed out the left rear hub, but also said I need a brake light switch. I've already installed new front hubs, calipers, and pads plus rotors on all four wheels. I did not replace (yet) the rear hubs or calipers, due to lack of money... an old guy on Social Security, I do what I can. And now I'm told that I also will need front struts and sway bar bushings. The rear shocks are air-ride and easily replaced. But the struts are hard to find. Have you folks ever worked on one of these MV-1s?
Great video, I love the unedited format. It shows what REALLY happens wbile doing mechanical work. What is the name of the air tool you use to take away the rust? It seems ti come in handy quite a bit.
ABS light on and Stabiltrak on. I love this video and can't thank you enough as this video shows what's involved from the beginning to the end so much appreciated. Thanks to your video, now I have a clearer picture what the bearing is and how labor intense this job is fixed the proper way. You are the BEST!!!!
Makes you want to be a mechanic... amazing job... What i love about this channel is that it has the feel of a ''commercial'' video, but personalized.... just awesome, great work!
This guy is my favorite. His energy is unmatched
Great job, Lenn. Love these long videos, where you show the complete job.
There's just a handful of auto channels I watch and this is one of them, Very detailed and professional.
Authentic and real deal video. The good ,the bad and the ugly - no editing here. #workshopreality. Awesome mechanic , good on ya mate
*** One thing I'd like to advise our mechanic is to never wear gloves when using the wheel wire brush - I've witnessed some really nasty injuries when the gloves gets caught by the wire
Thank you! Ihave a 2002 Nissan Frontier, and the ABS light always comes on with all the identical issues you presented. I am getting under the vehicle Saturday to check that magnetic stripping around that piece.
I have a envoy that when i was coming to a stop the abs would kick on. I plug my solus scan tool and notice that my right front speed sensor was showing different speed than the other 3 wheels. So basically the sensor was telling the abs that wheel was locking up so it activated the abs. I figured it was the bearing inside the hub that was defective. I replaced it and abs was back to normal. I pretty much did the same diagnosis you did on this video.
Excellent I'm glad you didn't edit out all the hassles of doing the mechanics of this type of work. From the calipers vibrating off where you had them hung. To the bolt that's hard to reach, and then the ratchet breaking. Just perfect. Now imagine doing this at home in the driveway. Without all the conveniences of the lift and air tools. Besides all the talking you do to yourself and the nuts and bolts. Got to love it. Hahaha, all so much fun. Nice job thanks for leaving in the reality of it all.
Refreshing to watch a realistic mechanical video!
1) Right off the top you find something unexpected left for you from some unknown soldier who worked on the car before you. (Zip tie holding wire to shock absorber) In this case, it wasn't hurting anything ... but I've found some really stupid stuff done by people who had no clue as to what they were doing, and no business doing it.
2) Then you have bolts to remove which CANNOT be reached with an impact wrench (Plan A), even after removing mounting bolts from unrelated parts in the vicinity.
3) So you get a hand tool on the offending bolt to remove it (Plan B), and the bolt is so stubborn that you snap the head off of your ratchet. As you said ... "Perfect" ! (I feel ya')
4) Finally, a more heavy duty tool (Plan C) won't fit as well as the now-broken one did, but will access the bolt by using an extension, and gets the job done.
As a retired Master Mechanic, I've had countless instances where ONE bolt caused the job to take twice as long as what a quick glance would cause you to think. It happens so regularly that I began calling this unknown but expected bolt the "Bitch Bolt", and including it in repair time estimates ... as in, "45 minutes without a Bitch Bolt, but don't count on that being the case". Of course, this roused curiosity from those higher up the Food Chain, but after a few instances of checking to see what was holding up progress, they quickly learned what Mechanics often go through to accomplish what SEEMS like a simple task.
Modern machinery is designed for ease of assembly, NOT for ease of disassembly and repair. Particularly field repair with a large crew of highly paid skilled laborers standing around twiddling their thumbs, getting paid to do nothing while their crane or other necessary piece of Equipment is being fixed. It's high-pressure with high responsibility and Big Bosses breathing down your neck ... but I regularly pulled a mechanical miracle out of my butt, which allowed me to say my most favorite thing to say while on the job ... "That's why I get paid the Big Bucks"!
Most mechanical videos seem to go out of their way to make something look simple and easy, causing people to attempt repairs which they have no business trying to do. After they have totally screwed things up ... they call me. Which gets annoying at times, when I'm retired and trying to enjoy life. So I TRULY appreciated this live-action video with warts and bruises and all of the unexpected little things which pop up routinely while doing mechanical repairs. THANK YOU !
THANK YOU SO MUCH! WHAT A GREAT VIDEO! I know this is the REAL DEAL video for sure! Now I know even the best mechanics have problems at times. Next time I'm struggling to fix something on my truck, I'll think back to this and smile, and be grateful for having watched this video! The amazing part is even with all the problems, he finished in about an hour...I doubt anyone could do much better, all things considered. Semper Fidelis! CWO4 USMCR 17 Feb 1969 - 1 August 2004
Well done and informative would be nice to see more of these full length diag and repair vids, as always excellent work. Working on vehicles that are exposed to winter road salts/rust welded parts creates additional challenges as seen here 👍🏽
Glad to see a real life presentation. To many times you see where videos are edited so as not to show problems incurred along the way. By the way, isn't that ratchet lifetime warranty? Thanks for the video
I just take it to the dealer. I had my on for over a year, finally took it in. Master cylinder was leaking. $800.
Small leak plus I dont drive much but 3,000 a year. Thats why I drag my out for a year .
Just got tried of the Christmas lights 🙃
Note: love your show. Saved me over thousands
I enjoy that you cleaned everything up. I live in the North and worked in a shop for awhile. You wouldn't believe how many issues people caused by working on their own vehicles and not properly cleaning the affected area before assembly. Great job showing people how to remove without a puller as well.
+Sunny Ricklic Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This guy knows his stuff super cool when stuff dont quite go as you would like,
Love it! I'm tired from watching you work. Thanks for giving me confidence to do things myself if I have to. Great instructor!
Nice video-- very well done. One question: Instead of using a hammer to loosen and remove the stubborn wheel hub assembly, why not use a flange type hub puller with a slide hammer? This tool is designed specifically for this purpose and probably would have removed the old hub more quickly and easily than was the case using the hammer. Thanks for preparing and posting very well done and informative instructional videos!
This is great and all unless you run into the problem that I have with my $2,000 Snap-On scanner not communicating with the ABS module on my 03 Ford Mustang Mach1. After many hours of research, Most Mach 1 owners with this issue have concluded that the ABS module is bad. Issue with this is that the Mach 1 uses the Cobra module .This item was discontinued years ago. I have purchased 3 replacements @ $250-$350 each, with the guarantee that the replacement would work. Those prices were ridiculous to not fix the issue. Even after explaining to the sales clerk that the regular mustang 99-04 would not work, these are what showed up at my shop. Another issue is that as soon as you break the seal and install electronics of that kind, there is no taking it back as a return or exchange. Specifically has to have "COBRA" on the housing. Cant seem to find them anymore. At least not at a price that I can afford.
Wish I had a nice lift and tools in my studio. Awesome job repairing this old rust bucket. Thank God I live in the south, we rarely see so much rust on the under carriage.
Thank you for helping me understand more about ABS.
It’s good to watch a truly realistic video showing all the difficulties as they happen! All diy’s should watch this before even thinking about tackling such a differcult job
Well done!
The only thing that’s missing is the cursing!
+kenneth frost Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Really nice, professionally-done & helpful just like all your other 1A videos One question I have is during the hub removal / BFH smashing session (starting around 24:25), would a hub puller have worked ?
Mad respect for not editing out the bloopers
I am wondering if you wont damage the axle or pull it off from the transmission by hammering the spindle with a hammer like that???? i have seem special sliding hammer for that purpose
These are the greatest tool on RUclips. Thanks for the professional videos.
" I'm gonna be using my expensive scanner because I have it"
MUST BE NICE !!!
You guys are awesome 👌
Love what you guys do, keep it up 👍
Yeah...thought the same thing. They should use the cheaper diag readers like most of us DIYerz would have and use! Most of us would not have 2000 - 3000 dollar readers.
As a professional photographer for 49 years, that scanner cost about what one of my cheaper cameras cost. I have spent 140k on just film processor back in the day. The bottom line is the bottom line. If the equipment is paying for itself, it doesn’t matter what it cost. If your competitors has one and his product or service is better, then the investment is worth it. It is very hard for a DIY person or a hobbyist to justify. Now on the other hand the right to repair is forefront on the minds of many. If the manufacturers purposely, as many are, making it more difficult through patent of parts which would not be thought of as leading technology such as headlights or taillight lenses, therefore increasing the repair cost. This practice should be made known. The right to repair at a reasonable cost of something you pay big money to own is an ever increasing concern.
Makes me think about my days upgrading my old Fox Mustang in a one car garage. The struggle was real. I thoroughly enjoyed your video. Thank you!!!
Pretty sure penetrating oil will helps a lot on those rusted bolts. Nice videos. Thank you.
Nice job on this it has changed the way I go about fault finding ABS issues. You might want to mention that a lot of bearings have the abs reluctor build into the bearing these days. They need to be fitted the right way around of course. Thanks for the video
Wow at 21:27, i heard crackling but thought that was something else. Amazing "that just happened" moment many mechanics/home mechanics face.
Yeah, I seem to run into issues like that back bolt every time. Makes me want to light up some dynamite.
Thanks for the video, I'm doing my Subaru outback front wheel hub bearing ABS light on,14mm bolt had to use a 13mm rusty 287k 2011. Still have to get the hub apart but no problem.
So realistic and informative..
As older person never knew how ABS worked. This video was extremely clear.
Excellent tutorial. Next job, try applying 50/50 acetone/ATF fluid as a release agent and let it sit for about 15 minutes.. Nothing is better than that. The acetone is the carrying agent which allows the diluted ATF fluid to penetrate into the pores of the rust. This can be used to free up any rusted bolt or part.
Also could you have used a hub puller to avoid the hammering?
I love all the talking out the steps under your breath. Then we know what you are thinking:)
@@c.george7451 do they sell that product all ready made together? Thanks! 🦊
Yes now I wonder what can we spray on our cars to stop the rust or prevent it, if you don't live where they put salt on the roads
Great video,wondering what this job would cost labor wise doing this mobile?
Much respect to the mechanic. If I saw a car that rusted, it would be off to the metal recycling company for it.
Thanks for being transparent! Lots of mechanics would edit out the "mistakes". A-! is the Real Thing.
Aloha,
The Beachreporter
My ABS light is on because I pulled the fuse after it almost caused me to get broadsided. The left front wheel skidded in some chat at a stop sign on a country road and that turned off the brakes to the other three wheels and I wound up half way across the intersection. Then the car on the cross road had to swerve to keep from hitting me.
In replacing the hub assembly on my Chevy Silverado, I recall those three bolts coming out pretty hard. One in particular was hard to get a socket and breaker bar on it
I brought in my 2018 Sequoia to a Toyota dealership. I was experiencing electrical issues. The windows, the radio and the shifter were not working. They normally charge $140 for diagnostic, but this time they charged me $420 for diagnostic because they said it was 3 different areas to diagnose. Finally they discovered it was a couple of blown fuses & missing fuse. Did I get scammed?
How and/or why were you missing a fuse? Also, what caused the other two fuses to blow? There has to be a lot more to this story. If anyone ripped you off it's the person that pulled and didn't replace the missing fuse .
It they fixed the problem that was causing the blown fuses then it was money well spent. Having multiple blown fuses and a missing fuse for a 2018 Toyota sound like a time consuming riddle. IMO: Appears that it is not a normal 2018 Toyota as if it was in an accident or abused.
Your story taught me always go 2 different places before go to dealership, they are dishonest , It's simple. Never trust, find trusted mechanic, I know it's not easy either.
This was absolutely a great video! It was so useful and also you showed the good, bad and the ugly. I am glad you kept everything in the video too. When the socket wrench broke I completely died of laughter! Your energy is great for these videos. Thank you for all your hard work and detailed videos.
OMG. This is the first 1A Auto video where you showed clearly how often a tough issue can come up removing any component. It's never as simple as your typical videos make it look. Nice to have a lift. Add a circle light to the camera lens. We clearly see you thinking. You're definitely a mechanic, not just a spokesmodel.
+Bruce Wagenberg Thanks for the feedback!
I just went through this. My escalade has ac Delco oem hubs and timken abs wheel speed sensors.
I purchased abs sensors off Amazon. Fit perfect to the eye. But, it didnt go in enough to be close to the axle.
Abs and tc lights came on. Very dangerous driving. Random hard braking .
Anyway. I put the original abs sensor in. Started it up. Lights still on. Tried disconnecting battery. Lights still on.
Drove down road 30 seconds. Lights off and ecm reset abs automatically.
Lessen i learned ? Im not an oem fanboy. But, its obvious that the hub being oem, required an approved oem sensor.
Very good and honest work for a certified auto tech. Rarely do I see such quality workmanship.
!!!!
Enjoyed it. I loved it when you said, it never comes off easy.
Great video, I have abs problems on my 2005 Dodge ram1500, I like to do simple repairs on my own. After watching the video I know this is going to a real mechanic as I don.t have the proper tools and this is my only vehicle. Also being 72 and don't have the strength I used have anymore.
lots of indicated rust all round its seems no rust protection being applied to the bottom side, kindly recommend to the owner to the anti rust shops, good jobs guys. more power to your channel
Too late for rust prevention for that vehicle.
This happened to me along with my gear shifter getting stuck on 2017 Camry SE, could my problem be different than having to change out bearings? Love the video on details of diagnosis and complete guide on how to fix/replace.
For once an honest mechanic. You showed the entire process and not edit out the hard parts. Most of the time things turn into a royal pain in the ass. Couple things to mention. You hit the corner of the backing plate twice. I would of straightened it before putting back on. And when removing the axle bearing. Instead of beating the hell out of it. Take a 36 inch pipe wrench and grip the flange. A couple good heavy yanks and they come right off. You might have to put the long bolt back in the bottom arm just a bit to keep everything rigid. Great video!
Someone on a forum suggested that this may be what is going on with my Audi 2.0 TFSI. My recent symptoms have been only a few times and at random, EPC and ABS light comes on for roughly 10 seconds. Vehicle seems to almost go into a limp mode during that short time. More often, my RPMs will surge, especially going down hill, they also will freeze (almost like they are stuck in a certain gear) and it has lack of power from stop position and some uphill. Only fault codes that seem to be coming back up are for Vehicle Speed Sensor. One shop kept the car fo 3 days, first stating they couldn't seem to find nor reproduce any issues that I was experiencing, then they said the timing is off by 2 teeth. Granted, I just replaced timing chains, guards, tensioners, couple months prior, and it did not have these issues before that when the timing was really bad. Never had VSS fault codes at that time. Only all the cam crank correlation and position sensor codes. It feels like a totally different thing than previously when it was a timing issue. Anyone have some insight on this that may be able to help me out? I greatly appreciate it!
55 dislikes. What the hell. Love this video. No quick do this and do that. You actually showed how in real time and, of course, a little frustration. But in all. Great video
Great video, showing some of the different problems that can pop up, im glad that you didn't edit them out.
I'm not a mechanic, but after seeing how much force you had to apply to get the bolt all the way through the bottom (control arm?) that the torque wrench should have been used on the side with the nut, not the head of the bolt.
Plus, it always amazes me how factories and/or mechanics will forego the use of around $0.12 of anti-seize compound failing to look far enough into the future to see hundreds, perhaps thousands of dollars in labor/parts that could have been prevented down the road...
Lenn , Great job and love your videos.
He did a great job on the physical and breaking it down articulating the demonstration, the best one I have seen from 1A Auto💯💯💯💯💯💯🙏
When the universe is working against you: This man was getting hot under the colar as the vid progressed. I could tell because it happens to me ALL of the time. Mechanics is very frustrating and will literally make us delirious and laugh uncontrollably. I don’t know why, but I found this vid to be funny.. 🤦🏼♀️😂😆🤪
Can't blame the guy
I GOT MY DAD 2007 TAHOE LTZ IT HAS 237,120 MILES NOW THE TRANSMISSION FLUID WAS NEVER CHANGE SINCE 164,325 MILES DO YOU RECOMMEND CHAINGING IT NOW?
AT 8:54 THEY CHARGE ALL THIS $$ FOR VEHICLES NOW ADAYS AND THEY NEVER UNDERCOAT THEM FROM RUST CORROSION; WHAT EVER HAPPEN TO THIS
OPTION FROM THE PAST.
Some car companies,don't make some of these cars last longer nowadays 🙄
Yeah, my first impression when I saw that was "hoo-boy, we've entered FLAVOR COUNTRY".
Doing a proper undercoat job as the car rolls off the factory line would keep it nice and rust-free for at least twice as long.
Unfortunately, cars are built to fail predictably, just after the warranty period expires, in order to get extra profit from sales of spare parts and repair services, as well as to generate sales of new cars.
Planned obsolescence became a practice specifically because people would hang on to their stuff for too long, because it didn't break and the new models didn't offer enough improvement over the old ones to justify a switch. And at first, the "obsolescence" was mostly psychological pressure - "you're old-fashioned if you don't get the new car with the more aggressive body shape and the cool, new, unique color!"
But these days, the expectation is that people will buy a new car every five years. Keep on consuming, so that revenue to the manufacturer is stable.
This is what's slowly killing the planet, and it's why your car rusts out from under you no matter how well you try to maintain it.
I'm a subscriber since 2017 ,this is the best video going from to start to the last minute of this operation showing that it's not easy wheel bearing replacement specially when the car owners don't replace their suspension and brake system ,look at all the rust on that vehicle!!
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Loved this video because it shows what usually happens,
Astonishing amount of work to replace that wheel bearing. thank you
Why not spray the bolt down with some penetrating oil DW40 or Nut buster
I would recommend using a breaker bar when engaging a stubborn bolt/nut to save those ratchets. Excellent video.
I'd like to know how many colourful words were going through your mind when you tried to get that bolt out😆 cause I have quite a lot of them when it comes to stuck bolts😆😆. And as always these things happen to me a lot, so thanks for putting this video up to let us know it's not all smooth when it comes to your car👍