@@politicalfisherman540mechanical engineers (of which automotive engineering is a specialty) design these systems, so they have a better appreciation for why high precision and attention to detail are crucial. Their endorsement is meaningful.
This is why I do my own brake jobs. It’s super easy and I know it’s done right. Hard to find mechanics that have this much attention to detail. Great job!
I was taught how to do brake jobs when I was 13 / 14 years old. I’ve been doing my own for 40 years now. The man that taught me was my mentor when it came to mechanical work and electrical work. He was top notch at both.
I agree with every procedure ! I have done the very same methods since the 1970s. Would add to not push the brake pedal to the floor when closing the calipers . The master cylinder can pick up dirt at the end of it's travel and fail ..... Most techs don't work like this !..... Excellent Video !!..... ....
Agreed! There is no way most auto shops go to this detail on a brake job, including large dealers. We bought a used car this spring out of state. The car was at 2 dealerships (the dealer we bought it at, and a closer dealer for warranty work). I took it to a local mechanic and they found an issue where a brake pad had been installed backwards. SUPER strange! And both the previous dealers had done what they called a "Vehicle Inspection".
I appreciate someone taking the time to walk through all the steps so thoroughly. Most of the videos I watched before skipped ALL the prep. Glad I saw this in time.
*AND* caring about customers! I get doubtful going to mechanics nowadays, at times that I absolutely cannot do a DIY on the work, because most of the mechanics rush through their jobs and don't care about details. And when you bring back the car, that actually gotten worse after you have brought it in, they make excuses!
@@unebonnevie, yep. this is why i started doing my own brakes. The last shop that did my brakes did not put lug nuts on any of my wheels. I turned around and drove back as it didn't feel right. OMJ
As a rust belt guy. I like to put a thin film of high temp anti-seize in between the wheel hub surface and the rotor after cleaning it. And then another layer on the surface between the wheel and rotor face. Really helps with taking stuff apart again later on, and you spend less time cleaning the second time around too.
@@simply_the_dev7588 If you ever touched & worked with anti seize, that alone would answer your question. 😅 Anti seize is not supposed to be brushed on and left like that. The brush is used to dab. After that, you’re suppose to spread it out - thin it out on the surface. After you covered the intended surface, if still have some areas thick with anti seize, take a shop towel and wipe. There will still be a thin layer of anti seize even after such wipe. I have a habit of using right hand pinkie-tip as my anti seize spreader. This allows me to feel how thin the anti seize has being spread.
This shop does museum quality work on every day cars. Probably the best video I have ever seen on how to do a brake pad and rotor replacement the way it should be done! If you are near this shop, I would bring anything to them and pay whatever they charge because you don’t see quality like this Every day!
We would Gladly pay them to be this detailed, if you’re a customer that keeps their Volvo till it hits 300000 plus. 😎 I’m an odd customer that wants the mechanic to be paid for the detail. 🚗⚒️🪛
Loved seeing this video. My wife can’t stand that I take a while when I work on my cars, but I take pride in my work and want it done right! I can see that you guys take pride in your work too. Keep up the great videos.
DIY backyard mechanic here.I have learned something new today when you cleaned the rust around the studs! I have watch many, many, many other brake job videos and have never seen this step shown! I just looked at Amazon and there are various descriptions depending on the sellers and key words are Brake Hub Resurfacing Kit, Brake Hub Cleaning Kit for Rust, Wheel Stud Cleaning Kit, Clean Lug Nuts on the Wheel Hub.
well I think its safe to say this is the best comprehensive brake video on all youtube. This guy should actually be a college instructor or something. Really good at teaching.
Was a heavy equipment mechanic for 45 yrs. and its nice to see people understanding the importance of clean mating surfaces and torque values. Take the time to do clean work,pay attention to detail,understand how it functions and you will know how reassemble correctly. If you didn't have time to do it right the first time ,, you will the second time .
This is exactly who you want teaching and working on your car. No BS. No shortcuts. Straight to the point and thorough. I love that moment he stopped the Mechanic to put on PPE. The whole video he was making sure it was done right and safely. This guy raised the bar. This didn’t even come off as a break job. I took this as how to service your brakes to be as if you just purchased the car brand new. Many thanks for the education.
@@QueenCityHornets Did that make you feel clever posting that? OP made a positive post about the work this channel is doing and this guy thought it's a mature response to shit on him without giving any reason to. At least give recommendations of better videos/ channels to watch. jeez.
This is fantastic. Im a weekend warrior with a pile of wrenches. Ive been doing my own brakes for years and still learned a lot of valuable information here. Thank you guys for the time and detailed explanations.
Clean around the piston and dust shroud with a plastic brush and brake cleaner BEFORE pushing the piston back. Inspect the dust boot for fit and tears. If you have to replace the boots, replace the seals too.
My Dad's good friend was a Master Mechanic and he said the same thing. Clean the piston's rubber boot thoroughly before driving in the piston. As I remember, he said wipe it with a little brake fluid as part of cleaning it. On another note, Zinc is a sacrificial anode and it will protect an entire part even if the finish is locally removed completely in the slide areas. (ie. They weld zinc tabs on ship hulls they don't electroplate them.) I've run 96 hour salt fog tests and proven this to be true. Retired Mech Eng.
Not a single dealership would ever do a brake job with this much detail. This is outstanding work. I see some mechanics use copper antiseize underneath the rattle clips, especially up north and also a light coat directly on the wheel hub.
I'm the tech. I don't have comebacks often. Sorry to say but the reason we don't do half these steps is because of what we are getting paid. An hour to do front pads and rotors. And an hour for the rear. Greasing the slide pins real quick fine. But polishing hubs for 10 mins each wheel and everything else they are doing screws the tech. Yea the owner marks the parts up 300% probably 600 to 800 on this brake job for the front and rear. Gets a rotor for 20 charges you 80. 2 or 3 hours of labor for the tech at 30 and hr say. Which is more often like 20 an hr for these guys they trick for years. So $60 for the tech and $800 for the shop that does pads, rotors, hardware, wire brushing, labor, sandblasting, and whatever else they throw on that ticket. Shop wins, customer wins, tech loses. Explain that to the customer or to all you people on youtube.
@@besttex4735 You're "the" tech"? The one from this shop? One hour is about how long it takes me to do a complete brake service if replacing vs turning rotors. I don't work under a premise of faster is better and I work at a modest pace. I do more steps than this shop and do the steps better, with the exception of not having a blast cabinet. I use a wire wheel which is probably faster but doesn't get every molecule of scale from non-critical hard to reach areas.
Nine thousands of runout is going to shake like a dog shitting tacks, the first time you drive it. Also, puting a little silicone grease UNDER the anti rattle clips helps slow down the corrosion jacking that binds up the pads. If you get bare rotors that have oil or cosomline on them, clean them with hot soapy water _first_ before you hit them with brake clean, this breaks the surface tension of the oils, and washes off any metal particles that have been left behind by machining, this is an ASE test question, and recommended by Raybestos, Kelsey-Hayes, and TRW, and I consider the manufacturer as the authority on those matters. I've been doing it this way for 32 years, and It has served me very well.
Correct. And to do the job 100% correctly, coat the bare metal contact surfaces of the hub (and rotor if not coated from the factory) with antiseize (preferred) or something similar. Watch him promote the cleaning of the hubs and caliper brackets, then not protect them. F*ing amazing, and this is the norm for 99.99% of people who think they are doing a "proper" brake service. My brake services come back 5+ years and 60K+ miles later and they are a dream to disassemble and recondition. Hardly any elbow grease at all.
It took me 20 years to finally buy my own home and have a garage to work in. Now that I can finally do my own maintenance, I really appreciate y’all showing how to do it the right way.
Much respect, shirts tucked, floors swept, shop tidy and bright, fender covers, THIS is a shop I would trust with my vehicles! I do all my own work as it’s what I went to school for and I find very few shops that do things right! I spend all day on a brake job because the details MATTER! If you want to do it once in a 100k miles, do it right the first time!
As long as people like you exist shops like this will exist. I worry most people have no knowledge about how their car works and just want to pay less and wait less, therefore demanding shortcuts. People like you keep places like this in business.
I've done a dozen brake jobs the exact same way you guys do and I've never had someone come back for noise or vibration. It's the perfect brake job! Great video. Thank you for posting.
its honestly not rocket science. this should all be basic knowledge. never argue about torque spec unless you have a masters degree in engineering. although the reminder about opening the bleeder valve when compressing the piston is a good tip, especially ones with older brake fluid.
@@drywater3559 The explanation about thoroughly cleaning all the mounting surfaces was a pretty good thing to include as well. Most backyard mechanics would never even think about that stuff, but it's pretty important. I've spent most of my life not paying that much attention to that, and I generally haven't really had an issue I've noticed, but it's pretty clear why it could result in some problems.
@@drywater3559 ANd use eye protection whenever using wirewheel and hi-speed abrasions tools as well as the hand moved wire brush and any time something has the possibility of flying out under pressure at your face. one little flake of something in your eye lose your eye. Not worth the 5 sec to put them on.
I've been a DIY mechanic for 40 years but mainly engines. I'm just about to do my first pads & rotors replacement. So glad I watched this first to avoid mistakes I probably would have made.
DIYer here, you did it absolutely perfectly! Appreciate the thought that we should open the bleeding valve instead of pushing the dirty brake fluid back to main reservoir. One comment on the timing: DIYers probably need 15+ min to jack up and secure the car safely lol; plus less convenience when car is not lifted nice and high. I’ve had VERY GOOD experiences with a little Dremel tool + brass/SS wire brushes: it cleans up the rust so easily.
I wonder why he wasted time using the wire wheel first then going into the same surfaces with the ROck on a stick thing to get the same places deeper. Just go deep first and skip the useless first wire wheel pass. No?
been a mechanic 42 years this guy is 100 percent knows how to do a brake job correctly. I like when you drained some brake fluid when compressing the piston back in. thats a new one on me. Makes sense tho. great video!!!
In the rust belt, you need to apply grease between the clips and the caliper bracket. More likely for the pads to seize in the caliper brackets due to rust jacking, than for the caliper pins to seize, and the grease will help keep moisture out of that area. It's much more important once the vehicle has aged a bit and any factory plating is gone.
(1) Absolutely second this practice. My '16 CRV has cast iron caliper bracket, no plating, which rusts fast from salted roads, especially at rear brakes. Use a high temp lub that resists water wash out. (2) Also, when the rubber boot is a tight fit at inner end pf slide pin, put boot on slide pin first, then apply grease to slide pin, then install slide pin and boot into caliper bracket. (3) For rust belt cars - when caliper bracket is cleaned and still off car, screw bracket bolt 80% into bracket and apply thread sealer (or medium thread locker) to bracket threads at tip of bolt. This will help prevent rust-seizing of bolt in the bracket. As a DIY mechanic, I don't want to have to deal with a broken bolt at next brake job. (4) Finally (for rust belt corroded brakes) consider using a big puller to pull rotor off hub. The "heavy" hammer method of getting rotor off hub risks damaging wheel bearings, and steering linkage (at front). (5) Although I use a decent torque wrench, once fully torqued, I paint critical bolt heads at their bottom with (office) white-out. Then check that bolts have not moved after some driving. Thanks for posting this really great video.
I agree. Indeed, lubricate the back of abutment clips, leaving the faces dry. Last time I used brake grease but I am going to try anti-seize on my next brake service. As it stands, I will be using Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant for slide pins, Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant for brake pad shims, Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant for the back of the abutment clips, and Loctite LB 8007 Copper-Base Anti-Seize Lubricant spray for the hubs. By the way, to prevent overspraying hubs with anti-seize, I place a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing over each stud and a piece of cardboard, with an axle cut-out, behind hubs. I prefer spraying over brushing hubs, the former method creating an even coat, a coat less likely to cause runout.
I have been doing brakes for over 30 years. Your procedure is exactly how I do it. However, I would add one more step. Always apply brake lube on the carrier where the clips go before placing them. This eliminates noise and keeps the surfaces from rusting.
Fantastic tutorial!! My brother replaced his front brakes last night before seeing your video today. He's decided to redo the job today and follow all of your recommended steps. Thank you for sharing your fine craftsmanship!
1. I’ll clean the slide pins before removing the bracket. 2. Put a thin film on the caliper contact points instead of the back of the pad so there’s no grease to absorb dust. 3. Instead of lubing the shims, put a thin coat on the pad contacts. Again, to keep dust from sticking to the exposed grease. Clayton needs a cart right next to where he’s working to set his tools on.
After 10 yrs of turning a wrench I just bought a foldable service cart. One of the best decisions I made. No more tools on the ground or multiple trips bringing tools from one side to another. Also high quality lights!
Excellent video. I’ve been installing brakes for 30 years and learned some things from your instruction. The main thing a top technician needs is a pony tail. 😂
Been doing my own brake jobs for over 50 years. Cleanliness is key. Never thought of loosening the bleeder valve before compressing the piston, but it sure makes sense. Good video, good tips! Thanks!
this is EASILY the BEST and most complete brake job tutorial on RUclips!! It made a subscriber out of me... thank you for letting the DIY person know what I was missing.
This is the best video over ever seen on brakes. Already mentioned, but worth mentioning again. If you live in Michigan, and you've spent 45 beating a rotor off... you place a nice thin layer of anti-seize on the hub, before replacing the rotor. None on the lug nuts. Especially for home jobs, where you don't have 80 rotor removal options (like a shop)... you'll thank yourself when you encounter that rotor again.
I use a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing on each wheel stud to guard the threads along with a cardboard shield with axle cut-out, placed behind the hub, before spraying a light coat of copper anti-seize.
Great video here! Four items that I think were missed per OEM instructions. 1) Only silicone-based high-temp grease should be used on the caliper pins. Any petrolum-based will cause the boots and pin dampers to swell and fail. 2) When cleaning the pin boots and caliper piston boot, use a bit of silicone spray to get them clean and nice and pliable. 3) Thermal paste (3M Molykote M-77) should be used on the back of the pad, and on the shims to more efficiently carry heat off the face of the pad, into the backing and ultimately into the caliper frame. Each touch point of the pad (ears and back) should have thermal paste applied. I do not apply it to the full back of the outer shim, where it will collect dirt and looks bad with painted calipers. Instead, put the thermal paste on the fingers of the caliper frame and the face of the piston. 4) I use a thin layer of anti-seize paste on the face of the hub to keep the rotor from seizing with corrosion.
Don't be afraid to use it on the external side of the shim, it is designed to be corrosion protection and a mastic-like film between piston/pad and caliper housing/pad. I've never considered it to be a cosmetic issue. I think you're the first to mention Moy-77, good suggestion.
I really appreciate your videos. Thank you. Very informative. This helped me to do the brakes on my nephews Toyota Solara. He's a good kid that doesn't have a lot of money. This got us to do it ourselves and save money. Thank you again! ❤
Exactly how my father taught me, besides the bead blasting. Been turning wrenches for 30 years as a pro, you lose credibility and pride after a come back, no matter how seasoned you are. This is this most thorough and comprehensive guide to brake service. Hopefully, words gets around in your area about the great service you provide and keep you busy with return customers.
Two things here: 1- I never opened the bleeder when pushing the piston back and never had problems but it's a very good point and will definitely do it from now on 2- I ALWAYS use high temp anti-seize on the hub to not get the rotor to rust and stick to it. This step makes the cleaning the hub from rust on the next brake job a 30 sec job (just spray brake cleaner and it'll dissolve it ,then wipe clean).I'd like to know if there's any drawback by doing so ,I can only see advantages but I'm not Mr Know-it-all The rest of the steps are exactly like I do and very nicely explained here.
i've heard a lot of times, that if you put anti seize between the hub and the rotor, it could take a fake reading when you torque the wheels since anti seize is soft. Is it true? i don't know.
Use the spray can copper grease, it will add a thin coating preventing rust. Don't want a thick layer for this application. Doing this will keep the hub surface nice, smooth, and rust free.
@@orhansejfulov7437Not true at all. Anti-seize will actually give you a more accurate torque reading, since you’re not measuring the friction from the threads. Tightening to the proper torque value is done because you’re stretching the fastener to a degree, depending on the torque spec, and you don’t want it over or under torqued. However, it’s recommended that you never put anti seize on a lug nut. Just clean those threads.
You should NEVER use anti-seize on either surface of the rotor or the hub. The rotors are actually supposed to "stick" to the hub and the wheel so that the braking momentum can be transferred via friction between the surfaces. If this friction is reduced, the momentum acts as a shearing force on your wheel bolts. You don't want that.
I’m a diy guy and I’ve been doing my own brake jobs for 50 years. As a teenager, on old card with drum brakes I did everything wrong. Luckily, I survived those botched brake jobs! I’ve tried to learn and get better with each successive job. It was fun for me to see that I do the same or a variation of your process for most of these steps. But I certainly learned from your video! Great to see real professionals at work! Thanks for the video.
With very few cuts, this video, with the mechanic on the spot, AND with the explainer, took less than 45 min. It'll take me way longer, but this is how the pro's do it. Love these guys on Tiktok, and now RUclips, one of, if not the best modern mechanic's channel.
Well, all I can say is wow! Actually this is the exact way every technician should perform this job. The is the right way to do it. I am very glad you guys follow the procedure and are very meticulous about every step of the process. I had previous experiences with several shop where I asked them if cleaned the hub, did this or that, if they greased the pins, and those guys looked at me like as if I asked them to do something out of this world. Assholes. Thank you for doing your job so good!
This is the kind of detailed and, most importantly, critical information you never get on other videos or tutorials for brake service. Yes, anyone can slap pads on a rotor and call it a brake job, but it takes experience to know how to do it properly so you don't end up with problems in just a couple thousand miles. Thank you for sharing this!
I absolutely love the way you explain what you do and why you do it while not acting like a “know it all”. I totally agree with every step you take to ensure a professional brake service - Great video and thanks for sharing - You are a true professional and a master of your craft - Thank You
I've done plenty of my own brake jobs over my lifetime and have watched my fair share of brake tutorials here on YT, but I learned several things today that I never knew and certainly have never seen in any other video...thank you for the thorough instructional step by step tutorial...
You do NOT see this attention in any shop I've seen. I talk to apprentices and other technicians about this, and not one has ever told me that they were taught this way. I encourage them to do this because it is an investment in our futures and customer satisfaction, even though we work on fleet vehicles. I truly appreciate the fact that you explained to your audience about the correct purging of the nasty brake fluid, the importance of bleeder caps, and all the reasons why. I have found techs resistant to using these techniques because they argue they are unnecessary and time-consuming. Thank you for producing this video, as I will be using it as a teaching tool. I say this often, " we do it right, and then there is everything else."
I’m not a mechanic by any means. Most of what I know was learned from RUclips. I worked at a dealership for 2 years and started out in detail. Wasn’t long before I worked my way over to the service racks. I was never taught to clean the rotor, I wasn’t taught the right amount of grease to put on the pins, and I certainly wasn’t taught to open the bleeders as I depressed the calibers back down. When I mentioned the “appropriate” amount of grease to put on I was dismissed as an inexperienced mechanic that shouldn’t believe everything I see on RUclips. They put way too much much on, never cleaned rotors and definitely didn’t bleed brakes if we only changed the pads. after seeing how “certified” mechanics did brakes I started doing my own and always have since then.
As a retired GM Master tech you guys are doing it right! Cleaning the mating surface for disc rotors is #1 important. This surface is also a factor in heat dissipation. Many years ago the dealerships were told to put plastic spacers behind the disc rotors to compensate for disc rotor round out. I argued with them because in my opinion this caused warped rotors because of poor heat dissipation. Sure enough most all brake jobs done with plastic compensation shims came back with brake shake. Great job guys.
When I was very young my Dad and Uncle who was a master tech taught me how to do brakes almost exactly like this minus using the blaster and opening the bleeder. I takes time but trust me when I say you will stop on a dime and never have a squeak. Appreciate you sharing the knowlege!
You may know this already (but did not clearly state it). MOST "brake grease" is actually bad (deteriorates rubber). My understanding is that ONLY SILICONE PASTE should be used on the pins.
Yeah. In general rubber types in the braking system are compatible with water based or soluble chemicals (acids/alkalies, alcohol, glycol, anti-freeze, brake fluid), NOT petroleum products (oil, grease, fuel).
I've been doing breaks for years now, and I pretty much do every break job like your shop does. One thing i do a bit differently is the lube on the back of the pads i put directly on the piston/ears so as to not use too much lube. And i put the lube for the clips directly on the edges of the pads that contact the clips. The reason is that the pad will distribute the lube along the clip where it needs to be, instead of acting like a bulldozer, and push the lube onto the rotor.
Sherwood, I ran across this video and watched it today (11 months later) and I wanted to write and comment that it’s an excellent video on doing disk brakes. As a DIYer I’ll remember this when I do brakes again for my car.Things are easier today as I watched my late Dad do front drum brakes on our families ‘64 Chevrolet Impala year’s ago when I was young.
So when you do brakes and you want to get the caliper bracket clean where the pads ride, you can use a straight grinder with a wire wheel. If you don’t have a sandblaster to get down into the cracks. A steel wire wheel works good! Guys you put out great videos!
Very detailed I am also an aircraft mechanic. I wish there were more shops like yours out there, sometimes us mechanics would like someone else to fix our problems since we do it all week. Unfortunately great shops are few and far between these days. P.S. you forgot to put the rubber cap on the bleeder screw, its on the lift behind you 😉
I was watching another video AirPlay on the living room TV had to take my dog out and this video was on , so I started to watch. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍SERIOUSLY ! I have been and worked around heavy equipment my entire life. Literally crawling through tractor trailer tires leaning against the wall maybe 100+ of them great until you bump into a mounted Bud wheel and then you have to turn around. I enjoyed the entire video with your attention to detail. I wish your shop was up North , New England , you would have a customer. Very hard to find a mechanic that takes this kind of pride in his work .
I dont usually comment on diy jobs on vehicles, but this video right here on how to do a brake job is the best ive ever seen on youtube! Period. The guy knows his stuff and how to do it right the FIRST time. Keep these great guides coming!!
Great video. This was actually very well done. People who complain about excess time or labour are just lazy in my opinion. Do it right the first time or don’t do it at all. If I didn’t live so far (I’m in Canada), I would have drove down to your shop in a heartbeat. I like knowing people are taking care of my vehicle the same way I would. Lastly, kudos to Clayton! He did an excellent job.
Thank you so much guys! I'm very interested in fixing cars. I've never did a brake job and this video was super interesting. I'm 62 yrs old but it's never too late to learn. Hopefully, one day I can do a brake job w/ some help from an experienced mechanic. God bless you 2 men.
My experience in the rust belt of Ontario Canada dictates that you must lubricate all metal mating metal surfaces. Put your favorite stuff on the hub face, between the caliber and the pads, between the bracket and the anti rattle hardware, and between the brake pad ears and the anti rattle shims. It's also good to apply stuff between the face of the brake disk and the wheel rim. If you don't do this there will be rusk jacking and binding sooner or later. Despite doing all this I've had binding brake pads and slide pins after a single winter. My practice is to clean and re-lube in the fall when i swap my summer to winter tires, and the spring when I swap the tires again. It's different in the rust belt.
Yes same story in upstate NY. The rear caliper pin on my Lexus GS was so locked I had to get new ones. I tried heat, gave up. Maybe acetylene would work.
I live in Ottawa and do the same thing, RUST IS A BITCH to deal with. I clean and lube my pins when I swap my tires and I clean and the wheel hub and grease them with anti ant seize too. We guys from Eastern Ontario and Western Quebec could show some of these guys on U Tube some rusted vehicle's and their parts that would leave them speechless!
3:20 Not sure if people are paying attention but that is a golden tip! I discovered myself on a motorcycle I was restoring some years back. Anytime two moving/rotating smooth surface metal parts come in contact with each other, you need to make sure their surfaces are indeed smooth!
Done hundreds of brakes and do 90 percent of what you all have done. Will be doing 100 percent from here out. Thanks for the lessons. Only thing I wasn't taught is to clean behind the rotor and grease the back of the pad. Both make sense though and will be doing from here out.
ya .i have been pushing cylinders back without cracking the bleeders for 35 years. never had a issue but i will always do it moving forward.makes all the sense in the world.espesially with all the exspensive high teck componets in todays cars.
Great video and I’ve been turning wrenches for 40 years.. well done guys, I love that you really cleaned the caliper carrier “I want that snappy bead cabinet” nevertheless you emphasized all the critical points in this job that typically issues come from, I like to add slyglide to the piston dust boot and the slide pin boots .. just to keep them from drying out, I also add a dash of blue loctite to the carrier bolts and caliper bolts .. and great job on cleaning the hub face I spend several minutes on that then will apply slight layer of never seize or fluid film on my newly cleaned hub so the rotor will come off easy.. really great commentary and production all around 👍🏻 Great job Clayton .. and to all the shop staff that are meticulous as Clayton with cleaning and torquing to specs you guys are real hard working guys that we want doing the work for our vehicles carrying ourselves and loved ones
I do everything in this video but I also put assembly brake grease between the back of the pad and the shim. What I’ve found is that not doing that can sometimes allow the shim to shift forward into the rotor causing a noise. With the grease there it makes it stick to the pad much better even if the shim is a little loose from the factory. It also stops some noise since you’ll have grease in that area and technically they can shift a little and not dig into the rotor.
As a shop owner, I have found that putting a dab of break grease in between the hardware and the bracket. Makes a huge difference with phantom brake noise. Also, if you ever reuse the rotor and machine them, you need to wash them in hot, soppy water and use dish detergent. It removes the static charge and any little bits of metal that were stuck.
You’re absolutely right about the importance of torque specifications. So many techs that I interact with seem to be disinterested in torquing bolts down properly in favor of the expediency of tightening by feel. At the end of the day, I get it - they’re probably pressured to get vehicles off the lift ASAP, so no judgement from this corner.😅 As an amateur, I have the luxury of time, so I can be very detailed just like you guys 👍
Cutting corners is not cool. This is why I vet my mechanic shops and luckily only use Independent mechanics for my vehicle services. And I have a 2019 XC-40 and it's services are done by an Independent Volvo only at a mechanic/owner's shop. He's been in business since 1982, same location, so I trust him with no hesitation. I also have an Independent Lexus mechanic/owner that I found for my 2023 ES300h Ultra Luxury. He was trained by Toyota and Lexus and he performs all maintenance services on my new vehicle. I have have already had the oil & filter changes done twice with Liqui Moly Special Tech AA 0W16 and a Toyota OEM filter (once at 1,000 miles to replace the factory fluids and filter and once at 6,000 miles). Only have 8,200 miles on the Odometer.
Fluid Film on a well cleaned hub, brake grease (e.g., Permatex Ceramic Extreme) on the caliper mounting brackets under the ant-rattle clips, and silicone-based grease (e.g., 3M silicone paste) on the caliper slide pins. It's the only way to go in the rust belt, and the best way to get maximum life from your brakes. Overall, a very well done video. Clayton did a great job cleaning out the bores on the caliper mounting brackets. This is an often overlooked, but very important, step. Also be sure the carefully check the condition of the rubber slide pin boots. They're your first line of defense for keeping water and grit away from your slide pins.
100% what is your opinion on cracking the bleeder screws to press back in the caliper piston? You know for sure that bleeder screws in the rust belt love to shear off.
I think these two are father son combo because the ponytails says family but this is great learning right here if all mechanics put their work online, I don’t think there will be any more shady mechanic mechanics. I will definitely trust these guys with my brakes. Brakes are your life and the fact that they have this attention to the smallest detail means that they actually care about their workand willing to share knowledge also means that they understand the importance of passing on information to the next generation
Hey guys Maine here. WOW! I have done my own brakes before but had no idea. This the most educational video I have ever seen. We need more mechanics like this! I want to make one more point. Watching Clayton do this job with his boss explaining what he is doing. You can tell from the video that Clayton respects his boss and vis versa. You sir, are not just knowledgeable but you are respected by your employees, and I can see why. When Clayton did not use the proper protection when he was blowing out the system, all you had to do was mention his name. He knew better, you did not ridicule etc... you said his name. He then put on his eyewear. Thank you so much for this video and also thank you for helping these young persons to provide for there families, educating them and treating them well. It is because of your standards you can see the work ethic that goes into there job. We need more like you and your team. P.S thank you for the education.
Very good example of the right way to do a brake job! Only additional things I would mention are a thin layer of anti-seize like others have said and I seat the pads into the rotors with a short drive after. I drive up to 40 miles an hour then make an aggressive stop (without coming to a complete stop), then repeat the process about 10 times, then drive for 10 minutes without using the brakes to cool it down. The idea is to not let the vehicle come to a complete stop and have the pads seat their material evenly. I've noticed a huge difference in stopping performance after I started doing this.
That's called bedding the brakes and it makes all the difference in stopping power. It also reduces noise and increases the lifespan of your pads. Unfortunately pretty much no shops do this.
@@dayjeremy you're right . I didn't think about it before I started doing my own brakes but I imagine no major chain shop I've taken it to in the past would actually go out and burnish my brakes themselves. I live in the city. I bet they simply put them on and called it a day. "That'll be $950.00, buddy,"
When I do it, I'll go out to the back roads where no one is and as soon as I start, sure enough, some ass hat is right behind me! I've gotten so tired of that I just make them wait for me and they're thinking who is this idiot who keeps speeding up and then slamming on the brakes, LOL.
I've always replaced my own brakes but I've never addressed sticky slide pins, lubing contact points, cleaning off rust. I always wondered why my brakes don't last longer or why I get noisy brakes after. Now I know. Thx guys👍
Been doing my own brakes for 43 years. At 69 my 2000 Dakota drum brakes were done by me in 2012. Doing them with all new hardware drums and shoes. Has 211,000 miles on it. Challenging as it is. I could never have my local shop do it for $200 a wheel. I cleaned and took off rust and three coats of black paint to the hub, axel and suspension. Look like new. It's my baby and I take care it, thanks for your video.
Found this by video chance and I can't imagine trying the cleaning and reassemble without it. Definitely shows that you teach this (and that you are a boss). The reasoning behind the actions is what helped me the most. Thanks for the help.
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
Mechanical engineer here, truly appreciate your attention to detail and explanation of the “why” on each step. Wonderful job and all the best!!
U ain’t no engineer shut up
Professional fisherman here. Why I brought that up, no one knows. Just thought we are listing our careers. 😂😂
@@politicalfisherman540mechanical engineers (of which automotive engineering is a specialty) design these systems, so they have a better appreciation for why high precision and attention to detail are crucial. Their endorsement is meaningful.
@@DanielLuechtefeld lol, it's a brake change 🤣
@@politicalfisherman540 ... A brake job with a level of attention to detail that 99% of mechanics will never give.
If only we had guys like this in every auto shop.
standing over your shoulder nit picking? must make mechanics can't wait to go home
Clayton was looking zoned out at times, but he performed like a pro.
Not when people choose the cheapest price, which means not the best shop… not a standard because customers don’t make it a standard
Ur comment us utterly right
Alot of mechanics don't do this. It's about making fast money. You have to do it yourself if you want a thorough job.
This is why I do my own brake jobs. It’s super easy and I know it’s done right. Hard to find mechanics that have this much attention to detail. Great job!
I was taught how to do brake jobs when I was 13 / 14 years old. I’ve been doing my own for 40 years now. The man that taught me was my mentor when it came to mechanical work and electrical work. He was top notch at both.
I litterly was thinking the same thing as I just scrolled down and saw this comment lol .
I agree with every procedure ! I have done the very same methods since the 1970s. Would add to not push the brake pedal to the floor when closing the calipers . The master
cylinder can pick up dirt at the end of it's travel and fail .....
Most techs don't work like this !.....
Excellent Video !!.....
....
Most mechanics/tire guys aren't worth a fuck these days. Standards are slipping everywhere.
Competency crisis
Exactly,
Shops like Walmart will literally hire ANY funky off the street, no experience needed.
This is 100% the best brake video I’ve seen on RUclips
Agreed! There is no way most auto shops go to this detail on a brake job, including large dealers. We bought a used car this spring out of state. The car was at 2 dealerships (the dealer we bought it at, and a closer dealer for warranty work). I took it to a local mechanic and they found an issue where a brake pad had been installed backwards. SUPER strange! And both the previous dealers had done what they called a "Vehicle Inspection".
I agree, great job
Agreed
I appreciate someone taking the time to walk through all the steps so thoroughly. Most of the videos I watched before skipped ALL the prep. Glad I saw this in time.
As a previous aircraft mechanic, I'm impressed with your attention to detail. It's refreshing to see people that care about quality
*AND* caring about customers! I get doubtful going to mechanics nowadays, at times that I absolutely cannot do a DIY on the work, because most of the mechanics rush through their jobs and don't care about details. And when you bring back the car, that actually gotten worse after you have brought it in, they make excuses!
Your man needs to wear safety glasses.
As a previous video game junkie, I am impressed also.
@@tonyrock5313 He get him.
@@unebonnevie, yep. this is why i started doing my own brakes. The last shop that did my brakes did not put lug nuts on any of my wheels. I turned around and drove back as it didn't feel right. OMJ
As a rust belt guy. I like to put a thin film of high temp anti-seize in between the wheel hub surface and the rotor after cleaning it. And then another layer on the surface between the wheel and rotor face. Really helps with taking stuff apart again later on, and you spend less time cleaning the second time around too.
but won't that cause the rotor to wobble just like having rust there?
@@simply_the_dev7588 nope and a little goes a long way with antiseize.
I second that. I NH the tire will get seized. One time I couldn't get the tire off, so I went in for a tire rotation lol.
@@simply_the_dev7588
If you ever touched & worked with anti seize, that alone would answer your question. 😅
Anti seize is not supposed to be brushed on and left like that.
The brush is used to dab. After that, you’re suppose to spread it out - thin it out on the surface.
After you covered the intended surface, if still have some areas thick with anti seize, take a shop towel and wipe. There will still be a thin layer of anti seize even after such wipe.
I have a habit of using right hand pinkie-tip as my anti seize spreader. This allows me to feel how thin the anti seize has being spread.
@marcjtdc, that was good thinking!
This shop does museum quality work on every day cars. Probably the best video I have ever seen on how to do a brake pad and rotor replacement the way it should be done! If you are near this shop, I would bring anything to them and pay whatever they charge because you don’t see quality like this Every day!
We would Gladly pay them to be this detailed, if you’re a customer that keeps their Volvo till it hits 300000 plus. 😎
I’m an odd customer that wants the mechanic to be paid for the detail. 🚗⚒️🪛
AfterLiving in Massachusetts.. Is it professional mechanic for about 30 years.. I would put a little. Antissee (sp) between the hub and the disc..
@@jim4448antiseize-
I once had a rotor that was so rusted in place that I ended up having to use a hydraulic puller to remove it-
@@jim4448 Thank you. You are one of the very very few to do this step. The 99.999% who don't, like the shop in this video, are hacks.
Loved seeing this video. My wife can’t stand that I take a while when I work on my cars, but I take pride in my work and want it done right! I can see that you guys take pride in your work too. Keep up the great videos.
DIY backyard mechanic here.I have learned something new today when you cleaned the rust around the studs! I have watch many, many, many other brake job videos and have never seen this step shown! I just looked at Amazon and there are various descriptions depending on the sellers and key words are Brake Hub Resurfacing Kit, Brake Hub Cleaning Kit for Rust, Wheel Stud Cleaning Kit, Clean Lug Nuts on the Wheel Hub.
Thanks dude. I found one under Wheel Stud Cleaning Kit on eBay BECAUSE of your comment.
This is and will be the BEST brake job tutorial on the net.
😂😂😂
😂😂😂
As a home mechanic, I didn't know to open the bleeders before pushing the pistons in, thank you for this info.
If you push them in very slowly the fluid just gets displaced back into the master cylinder reservoir.
well I think its safe to say this is the best comprehensive brake video on all youtube. This guy should actually be a college instructor or something. Really good at teaching.
I think he said he is a teacher.
Was a heavy equipment mechanic for 45 yrs. and its nice to see people understanding the importance of clean mating surfaces and torque values. Take the time to do clean work,pay attention to detail,understand how it functions and you will know how reassemble correctly. If you didn't have time to do it right the first time ,, you will the second time .
I will never change my brakes the same again ❤❤❤❤
Thank you soooo much!
This is exactly who you want teaching and working on your car. No BS. No shortcuts. Straight to the point and thorough. I love that moment he stopped the Mechanic to put on PPE. The whole video he was making sure it was done right and safely. This guy raised the bar. This didn’t even come off as a break job. I took this as how to service your brakes to be as if you just purchased the car brand new. Many thanks for the education.
I like the pipe, too. One accident can ruin a day. That said , great video . Love the detail of cleaning everything
This is a real brake job, plain and simple. Most just do a pad slap, maybe pad and rotor, but that's obviously wrong.
WHAT PPE??? Certainly nothing being worn while 'wirewheeling' the hub.
@@eddisc4205I think he talked about goggles while blowing brake cradles 🎉
Lol I was like, "Clayton, you need eye protection for that process." The boss should have had eye protection as well.
This is by far the best brake job I have ever seen on RUclips.
You must not watch many videos.
@@gncc600true
@@gncc600 what makes you say that?
@@Beaver.17 I would assume his brain communicated to his fingers to type that? But I mean who knows
@@QueenCityHornets Did that make you feel clever posting that? OP made a positive post about the work this channel is doing and this guy thought it's a mature response to shit on him without giving any reason to. At least give recommendations of better videos/ channels to watch. jeez.
Been doing my own brakes for 45 years, just learned a lot on the finer details that I never knew. Many thanks for the lesson!
This dude cares enough to go the extra mile and then some!
Thats a true mechanic!!
Been performing Brake Jobs with no come backs for over 15 years using the same method. Great tutorial men.
This is fantastic. Im a weekend warrior with a pile of wrenches. Ive been doing my own brakes for years and still learned a lot of valuable information here. Thank you guys for the time and detailed explanations.
Great moniker "Weekend Wrench Warrior"
Clean around the piston and dust shroud with a plastic brush and brake cleaner BEFORE pushing the piston back. Inspect the dust boot for fit and tears. If you have to replace the boots, replace the seals too.
very good point.
My Dad's good friend was a Master Mechanic and he said the same thing. Clean the piston's rubber boot thoroughly before driving in the piston. As I remember, he said wipe it with a little brake fluid as part of cleaning it. On another note, Zinc is a sacrificial anode and it will protect an entire part even if the finish is locally removed completely in the slide areas. (ie. They weld zinc tabs on ship hulls they don't electroplate them.) I've run 96 hour salt fog tests and proven this to be true. Retired Mech Eng.
It takes them more time.
Man, if I only had access to videos like this twenty years ago. Everything you've shown I learned the hard way. Awesome video.
Decades of experience in 1 video. YT is a gold mine...thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Not a single dealership would ever do a brake job with this much detail. This is outstanding work. I see some mechanics use copper antiseize underneath the rattle clips, especially up north and also a light coat directly on the wheel hub.
That is the difference between a complete, proper job and what this video illustrates.
Wish all brake shops had someone like you to teach their mechanics the right way to perform this job.
I'm the tech. I don't have comebacks often. Sorry to say but the reason we don't do half these steps is because of what we are getting paid. An hour to do front pads and rotors. And an hour for the rear. Greasing the slide pins real quick fine. But polishing hubs for 10 mins each wheel and everything else they are doing screws the tech. Yea the owner marks the parts up 300% probably 600 to 800 on this brake job for the front and rear. Gets a rotor for 20 charges you 80. 2 or 3 hours of labor for the tech at 30 and hr say. Which is more often like 20 an hr for these guys they trick for years. So $60 for the tech and $800 for the shop that does pads, rotors, hardware, wire brushing, labor, sandblasting, and whatever else they throw on that ticket. Shop wins, customer wins, tech loses. Explain that to the customer or to all you people on youtube.
@@besttex4735 You're "the" tech"? The one from this shop? One hour is about how long it takes me to do a complete brake service if replacing vs turning rotors. I don't work under a premise of faster is better and I work at a modest pace. I do more steps than this shop and do the steps better, with the exception of not having a blast cabinet. I use a wire wheel which is probably faster but doesn't get every molecule of scale from non-critical hard to reach areas.
Nine thousands of runout is going to shake like a dog shitting tacks, the first time you drive it. Also, puting a little silicone grease UNDER the anti rattle clips helps slow down the corrosion jacking that binds up the pads. If you get bare rotors that have oil or cosomline on them, clean them with hot soapy water _first_ before you hit them with brake clean, this breaks the surface tension of the oils, and washes off any metal particles that have been left behind by machining, this is an ASE test question, and recommended by Raybestos, Kelsey-Hayes, and TRW, and I consider the manufacturer as the authority on those matters. I've been doing it this way for 32 years, and It has served me very well.
I agree with you. To prevent rust-jacking, I grease the back of my abutment clips; however, I leave the faces bare.
Correct. And to do the job 100% correctly, coat the bare metal contact surfaces of the hub (and rotor if not coated from the factory) with antiseize (preferred) or something similar. Watch him promote the cleaning of the hubs and caliper brackets, then not protect them. F*ing amazing, and this is the norm for 99.99% of people who think they are doing a "proper" brake service. My brake services come back 5+ years and 60K+ miles later and they are a dream to disassemble and recondition. Hardly any elbow grease at all.
I am impressed with the cleanliness of your shop. In my opinion, this is a sign of a well-run business.
this might be the most thorough, clean, well spoken car repair video ive ever seen
no crazy music or nothin
just straight to the point and explained
It took me 20 years to finally buy my own home and have a garage to work in. Now that I can finally do my own maintenance, I really appreciate y’all showing how to do it the right way.
Much respect, shirts tucked, floors swept, shop tidy and bright, fender covers, THIS is a shop I would trust with my vehicles! I do all my own work as it’s what I went to school for and I find very few shops that do things right!
I spend all day on a brake job because the details MATTER! If you want to do it once in a 100k miles, do it right the first time!
As long as people like you exist shops like this will exist. I worry most people have no knowledge about how their car works and just want to pay less and wait less, therefore demanding shortcuts. People like you keep places like this in business.
They both need to be reminded more to use eyeglass safety.
I've done a dozen brake jobs the exact same way you guys do and I've never had someone come back for noise or vibration. It's the perfect brake job! Great video. Thank you for posting.
its honestly not rocket science. this should all be basic knowledge. never argue about torque spec unless you have a masters degree in engineering. although the reminder about opening the bleeder valve when compressing the piston is a good tip, especially ones with older brake fluid.
@@drywater3559 The explanation about thoroughly cleaning all the mounting surfaces was a pretty good thing to include as well. Most backyard mechanics would never even think about that stuff, but it's pretty important. I've spent most of my life not paying that much attention to that, and I generally haven't really had an issue I've noticed, but it's pretty clear why it could result in some problems.
@@drywater3559 ANd use eye protection whenever using wirewheel and hi-speed abrasions tools as well as the hand moved wire brush and any time something has the possibility of flying out under pressure at your face. one little flake of something in your eye lose your eye. Not worth the 5 sec to put them on.
I've been a DIY mechanic for 40 years but mainly engines. I'm just about to do my first pads & rotors replacement. So glad I watched this first to avoid mistakes I probably would have made.
You’ve been a “mechanic” for 40 years and never did a brake job. 😂
DIYer here, you did it absolutely perfectly! Appreciate the thought that we should open the bleeding valve instead of pushing the dirty brake fluid back to main reservoir.
One comment on the timing: DIYers probably need 15+ min to jack up and secure the car safely lol; plus less convenience when car is not lifted nice and high.
I’ve had VERY GOOD experiences with a little Dremel tool + brass/SS wire brushes: it cleans up the rust so easily.
I wonder why he wasted time using the wire wheel first then going into the same surfaces with the ROck on a stick thing to get the same places deeper. Just go deep first and skip the useless first wire wheel pass. No?
been a mechanic 42 years this guy is 100 percent knows how to do a brake job correctly. I like when you drained some brake fluid when compressing the piston back in. thats a new one on me. Makes sense tho. great video!!!
In the rust belt, you need to apply grease between the clips and the caliper bracket. More likely for the pads to seize in the caliper brackets due to rust jacking, than for the caliper pins to seize, and the grease will help keep moisture out of that area. It's much more important once the vehicle has aged a bit and any factory plating is gone.
(1) Absolutely second this practice. My '16 CRV has cast iron caliper bracket, no plating, which rusts fast from salted roads, especially at rear brakes. Use a high temp lub that resists water wash out. (2) Also, when the rubber boot is a tight fit at inner end pf slide pin, put boot on slide pin first, then apply grease to slide pin, then install slide pin and boot into caliper bracket. (3) For rust belt cars - when caliper bracket is cleaned and still off car, screw bracket bolt 80% into bracket and apply thread sealer (or medium thread locker) to bracket threads at tip of bolt. This will help prevent rust-seizing of bolt in the bracket. As a DIY mechanic, I don't want to have to deal with a broken bolt at next brake job. (4) Finally (for rust belt corroded brakes) consider using a big puller to pull rotor off hub. The "heavy" hammer method of getting rotor off hub risks damaging wheel bearings, and steering linkage (at front). (5) Although I use a decent torque wrench, once fully torqued, I paint critical bolt heads at their bottom with (office) white-out. Then check that bolts have not moved after some driving.
Thanks for posting this really great video.
I second the second comments! I like wiping on nickel anti-sieze between the anti rattle clips and the caliper bracket
Yup overkilled everything else but forgot the most important step smh.
I agree. Indeed, lubricate the back of abutment clips, leaving the faces dry. Last time I used brake grease but I am going to try anti-seize on my next brake service. As it stands, I will be using Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant for slide pins, Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant for brake pad shims, Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant for the back of the abutment clips, and Loctite LB 8007 Copper-Base Anti-Seize Lubricant spray for the hubs.
By the way, to prevent overspraying hubs with anti-seize, I place a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing over each stud and a piece of cardboard, with an axle cut-out, behind hubs. I prefer spraying over brushing hubs, the former method creating an even coat, a coat less likely to cause runout.
@@howardpike6415 Great idea about the white-out!
Thank you for confirming the amount of work that should be done for a mechanic to say he did a proper brake job.
This man is a shinning example of excellence!!! I wish him great success and please keep sharing your knowledge!!!
I have been doing brakes for over 30 years. Your procedure is exactly how I do it. However, I would add one more step. Always apply brake lube on the carrier where the clips go before placing them. This eliminates noise and keeps the surfaces from rusting.
Fantastic tutorial!! My brother replaced his front brakes last night before seeing your video today.
He's decided to redo the job today and follow all of your recommended steps. Thank you for sharing your fine craftsmanship!
Appreciate you keeping your techs eyes safe with safety glasses.
“A person can run or walk on a fake leg, but can’t see out of a fake eye.”
This isn't going to hold up well 🤷♂️
I wear a KN95 mask when performing a brake service as well. Although they no longer contain asbestos, breathing that stuff cannot be for one's health.
Need to wear them all the time. Starts from the top down, shop culture.
That's the most serious, thorough brake job I've ever even _heard_ of someone doing.
1. I’ll clean the slide pins before removing the bracket. 2. Put a thin film on the caliper contact points instead of the back of the pad so there’s no grease to absorb dust. 3. Instead of lubing the shims, put a thin coat on the pad contacts. Again, to keep dust from sticking to the exposed grease. Clayton needs a cart right next to where he’s working to set his tools on.
Wise tips indeed.
After 10 yrs of turning a wrench I just bought a foldable service cart. One of the best decisions I made. No more tools on the ground or multiple trips bringing tools from one side to another. Also high quality lights!
I don't know this, but he may actually have one for normal brake jobs. They may have had the tools in a slightly different place for filming purposes.
Excellent video. I’ve been installing brakes for 30 years and learned some things from your instruction. The main thing a top technician needs is a pony tail. 😂
Been doing my own brake jobs for over 50 years. Cleanliness is key. Never thought of loosening the bleeder valve before compressing the piston, but it sure makes sense.
Good video, good tips! Thanks!
this is EASILY the BEST and most complete brake job tutorial on RUclips!! It made a subscriber out of me... thank you for letting the DIY person know what I was missing.
This is the best video over ever seen on brakes. Already mentioned, but worth mentioning again. If you live in Michigan, and you've spent 45 beating a rotor off... you place a nice thin layer of anti-seize on the hub, before replacing the rotor. None on the lug nuts.
Especially for home jobs, where you don't have 80 rotor removal options (like a shop)... you'll thank yourself when you encounter that rotor again.
I use a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing on each wheel stud to guard the threads along with a cardboard shield with axle cut-out, placed behind the hub, before spraying a light coat of copper anti-seize.
@@armchairtin-kicker503 That's pretty fancy, I like your method.
Great video here! Four items that I think were missed per OEM instructions. 1) Only silicone-based high-temp grease should be used on the caliper pins. Any petrolum-based will cause the boots and pin dampers to swell and fail. 2) When cleaning the pin boots and caliper piston boot, use a bit of silicone spray to get them clean and nice and pliable. 3) Thermal paste (3M Molykote M-77) should be used on the back of the pad, and on the shims to more efficiently carry heat off the face of the pad, into the backing and ultimately into the caliper frame. Each touch point of the pad (ears and back) should have thermal paste applied. I do not apply it to the full back of the outer shim, where it will collect dirt and looks bad with painted calipers. Instead, put the thermal paste on the fingers of the caliper frame and the face of the piston. 4) I use a thin layer of anti-seize paste on the face of the hub to keep the rotor from seizing with corrosion.
Don't be afraid to use it on the external side of the shim, it is designed to be corrosion protection and a mastic-like film between piston/pad and caliper housing/pad. I've never considered it to be a cosmetic issue. I think you're the first to mention Moy-77, good suggestion.
With out a doubt, this video is the best tutorial on how to correctly perform a brake/rotor service. Hats off to Royal for putting this out there.
2:46 ✋
I really appreciate your videos. Thank you. Very informative. This helped me to do the brakes on my nephews Toyota Solara. He's a good kid that doesn't have a lot of money. This got us to do it ourselves and save money. Thank you again! ❤
Exactly how my father taught me, besides the bead blasting. Been turning wrenches for 30 years as a pro, you lose credibility and pride after a come back, no matter how seasoned you are. This is this most thorough and comprehensive guide to brake service. Hopefully, words gets around in your area about the great service you provide and keep you busy with return customers.
Two things here:
1- I never opened the bleeder when pushing the piston back and never had problems but it's a very good point and will definitely do it from now on
2- I ALWAYS use high temp anti-seize on the hub to not get the rotor to rust and stick to it. This step makes the cleaning the hub from rust on the next brake job a 30 sec job (just spray brake cleaner and it'll dissolve it ,then wipe clean).I'd like to know if there's any drawback by doing so ,I can only see advantages but I'm not Mr Know-it-all
The rest of the steps are exactly like I do and very nicely explained here.
i've heard a lot of times, that if you put anti seize between the hub and the rotor, it could take a fake reading when you torque the wheels since anti seize is soft. Is it true? i don't know.
I always just put a thin smear of brake grease on the hub since it's already right there. Never had any issues and it wipes right off later.
Use the spray can copper grease, it will add a thin coating preventing rust. Don't want a thick layer for this application. Doing this will keep the hub surface nice, smooth, and rust free.
@@orhansejfulov7437Not true at all. Anti-seize will actually give you a more accurate torque reading, since you’re not measuring the friction from the threads. Tightening to the proper torque value is done because you’re stretching the fastener to a degree, depending on the torque spec, and you don’t want it over or under torqued. However, it’s recommended that you never put anti seize on a lug nut. Just clean those threads.
You should NEVER use anti-seize on either surface of the rotor or the hub.
The rotors are actually supposed to "stick" to the hub and the wheel so that the braking momentum can be transferred via friction between the surfaces.
If this friction is reduced, the momentum acts as a shearing force on your wheel bolts. You don't want that.
I’m a diy guy and I’ve been doing my own brake jobs for 50 years. As a teenager, on old card with drum brakes I did everything wrong. Luckily, I survived those botched brake jobs! I’ve tried to learn and get better with each successive job. It was fun for me to see that I do the same or a variation of your process for most of these steps. But I certainly learned from your video!
Great to see real professionals at work!
Thanks for the video.
I was a machine repairman for 45 years. It’s nice to see extreme cleanliness when working. It does make a difference!
With very few cuts, this video, with the mechanic on the spot, AND with the explainer, took less than 45 min. It'll take me way longer, but this is how the pro's do it. Love these guys on Tiktok, and now RUclips, one of, if not the best modern mechanic's channel.
Well, all I can say is wow! Actually this is the exact way every technician should perform this job. The is the right way to do it. I am very glad you guys follow the procedure and are very meticulous about every step of the process. I had previous experiences with several shop where I asked them if cleaned the hub, did this or that, if they greased the pins, and those guys looked at me like as if I asked them to do something out of this world. Assholes. Thank you for doing your job so good!
This is the kind of detailed and, most importantly, critical information you never get on other videos or tutorials for brake service. Yes, anyone can slap pads on a rotor and call it a brake job, but it takes experience to know how to do it properly so you don't end up with problems in just a couple thousand miles.
Thank you for sharing this!
I absolutely love the way you explain what you do and why you do it while not acting like a “know it all”. I totally agree with every step you take to ensure a professional brake service - Great video and thanks for sharing - You are a true professional and a master of your craft - Thank You
I've done plenty of my own brake jobs over my lifetime and have watched my fair share of brake tutorials here on YT, but I learned several things today that I never knew and certainly have never seen in any other video...thank you for the thorough instructional step by step tutorial...
I have watched many tutorials on brake jobs and this one is truly excellent.
You do NOT see this attention in any shop I've seen. I talk to apprentices and other technicians about this, and not one has ever told me that they were taught this way. I encourage them to do this because it is an investment in our futures and customer satisfaction, even though we work on fleet vehicles. I truly appreciate the fact that you explained to your audience about the correct purging of the nasty brake fluid, the importance of bleeder caps, and all the reasons why. I have found techs resistant to using these techniques because they argue they are unnecessary and time-consuming. Thank you for producing this video, as I will be using it as a teaching tool.
I say this often, " we do it right, and then there is everything else."
I know, 50 years I've never seen a mechanic do this much work on brakes.
I’m not a mechanic by any means. Most of what I know was learned from RUclips. I worked at a dealership for 2 years and started out in detail. Wasn’t long before I worked my way over to the service racks. I was never taught to clean the rotor, I wasn’t taught the right amount of grease to put on the pins, and I certainly wasn’t taught to open the bleeders as I depressed the calibers back down. When I mentioned the “appropriate” amount of grease to put on I was dismissed as an inexperienced mechanic that shouldn’t believe everything I see on RUclips. They put way too much much on, never cleaned rotors and definitely didn’t bleed brakes if we only changed the pads. after seeing how “certified” mechanics did brakes I started doing my own and always have since then.
As a retired GM Master tech you guys are doing it right! Cleaning the mating surface for disc rotors is #1 important. This surface is also a factor in heat dissipation. Many years ago the dealerships were told to put plastic spacers behind the disc rotors to compensate for disc rotor round out. I argued with them because in my opinion this caused warped rotors because of poor heat dissipation. Sure enough most all brake jobs done with plastic compensation shims came back with brake shake. Great job guys.
Now that's how you do a brake job! Nice work Clayton and an awesome detailed video.
When I was very young my Dad and Uncle who was a master tech taught me how to do brakes almost exactly like this minus using the blaster and opening the bleeder. I takes time but trust me when I say you will stop on a dime and never have a squeak. Appreciate you sharing the knowlege!
This is a great video - I’m attempting my first brake job on my Tacoma and this video has set me up to do a great job.
You may know this already (but did not clearly state it). MOST "brake grease" is actually bad (deteriorates rubber). My understanding is that ONLY SILICONE PASTE should be used on the pins.
Superlube
I think you are right buddy, Silicon paste on the slide pins.
Yeah. In general rubber types in the braking system are compatible with water based or soluble chemicals (acids/alkalies, alcohol, glycol, anti-freeze, brake fluid), NOT petroleum products (oil, grease, fuel).
you are correct. it can deteriorate rubber or swell the rubber which seizes the caliper pins. i only use 3m silicone paste
I use Molykote for brake pins and pads, etc. made specifically for brake work. I also use oem spec grease only.
This has to be the most in-depth and through brake repair i have ever seen on U Tube. great work! You have even taught me a few things!
Brilliant demo, the little PPE slips show how honest this video is made.
I've been doing breaks for years now, and I pretty much do every break job like your shop does. One thing i do a bit differently is the lube on the back of the pads i put directly on the piston/ears so as to not use too much lube. And i put the lube for the clips directly on the edges of the pads that contact the clips. The reason is that the pad will distribute the lube along the clip where it needs to be, instead of acting like a bulldozer, and push the lube onto the rotor.
Sherwood, I ran across this video and watched it today (11 months later) and I wanted to write and comment that it’s an excellent video on doing disk brakes. As a DIYer I’ll remember this when I do brakes again for my car.Things are easier today as I watched my late Dad do front drum brakes on our families ‘64 Chevrolet Impala year’s ago when I was young.
So when you do brakes and you want to get the caliper bracket clean where the pads ride, you can use a straight grinder with a wire wheel. If you don’t have a sandblaster to get down into the cracks. A steel wire wheel works good! Guys you put out great videos!
Very detailed I am also an aircraft mechanic. I wish there were more shops like yours out there, sometimes us mechanics would like someone else to fix our problems since we do it all week. Unfortunately great shops are few and far between these days. P.S. you forgot to put the rubber cap on the bleeder screw, its on the lift behind you 😉
Per ardua ad astra
That’s exactly how I do my breaks.
I would trust you to do my breaks but not any other shops!
Great quality work!
what do you eat or drink on your breaks?
Same stuf you probably eat ,they are very professional & that is what all customers want.🕺@@davo912
Them's the breaks
Suck on.
@@davo912 what
I was watching another video AirPlay on the living room TV had to take my dog out and this video was on , so I started to watch. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍SERIOUSLY ! I have been and worked around heavy equipment my entire life. Literally crawling through tractor trailer tires leaning against the wall maybe 100+ of them great until you bump into a mounted Bud wheel and then you have to turn around. I enjoyed the entire video with your attention to detail. I wish your shop was up North , New England , you would have a customer. Very hard to find a mechanic that takes this kind of pride in his work .
I dont usually comment on diy jobs on vehicles, but this video right here on how to do a brake job is the best ive ever seen on youtube! Period. The guy knows his stuff and how to do it right the FIRST time. Keep these great guides coming!!
Great video. This was actually very well done. People who complain about excess time or labour are just lazy in my opinion. Do it right the first time or don’t do it at all. If I didn’t live so far (I’m in Canada), I would have drove down to your shop in a heartbeat. I like knowing people are taking care of my vehicle the same way I would. Lastly, kudos to Clayton! He did an excellent job.
You guys need to Teach other Garages how to do a Brake job..COMPLETE..well done😊
Excellent demonstration of a correct and thorough brake job.
That’s exactly how my mechanic taught me. So refreshing to see someone do it so perfectly. Outstanding video! Thank you!
I like that the video wasn’t a promo for your shop, you actually shared information for other people. Good work!
Wow, I wish all shops had that level of ethics and pride in workmanship
Yeah, I was wondering what kind of stare I would get telling my local shop to please "sandblast the cradle."
Thank you so much guys! I'm very interested in fixing cars. I've never did a brake job and this video was super interesting. I'm 62 yrs old but it's never too late to learn. Hopefully, one day I can do a brake job w/ some help from an experienced mechanic. God bless you 2 men.
My experience in the rust belt of Ontario Canada dictates that you must lubricate all metal mating metal surfaces. Put your favorite stuff on the hub face, between the caliber and the pads, between the bracket and the anti rattle hardware, and between the brake pad ears and the anti rattle shims. It's also good to apply stuff between the face of the brake disk and the wheel rim. If you don't do this there will be rusk jacking and binding sooner or later. Despite doing all this I've had binding brake pads and slide pins after a single winter. My practice is to clean and re-lube in the fall when i swap my summer to winter tires, and the spring when I swap the tires again. It's different in the rust belt.
Yes same story in upstate NY. The rear caliper pin on my Lexus GS was so locked I had to get new ones. I tried heat, gave up. Maybe acetylene would work.
i always use antisieze between the caliper bracket and the anti rattle clips or rust jacking will definitely be an issue
I live in Ottawa and do the same thing, RUST IS A BITCH to deal with. I clean and lube my pins when I swap my tires and I clean and the wheel hub and grease them with anti ant seize too. We guys from Eastern Ontario and Western Quebec could show some of these guys on U Tube some rusted vehicle's and their parts that would leave them speechless!
@@davidcampbell1899 I also blast inside of my 11 F150 frame with fluid film. A friend had his turn to swiss cheese.
@alb12345672 Yes, I have my car krowned every year ( fluid film) to keep it from rusting. My F150 is 20 years old and my Camry is 10 years old.
3:20 Not sure if people are paying attention but that is a golden tip! I discovered myself on a motorcycle I was restoring some years back. Anytime two moving/rotating smooth surface metal parts come in contact with each other, you need to make sure their surfaces are indeed smooth!
Done hundreds of brakes and do 90 percent of what you all have done. Will be doing 100 percent from here out. Thanks for the lessons. Only thing I wasn't taught is to clean behind the rotor and grease the back of the pad. Both make sense though and will be doing from here out.
ya .i have been pushing cylinders back without cracking the bleeders for 35 years. never had a issue but i will always do it moving forward.makes all the sense in the world.espesially with all the exspensive high teck componets in todays cars.
That is how winning is done. Never surrender. Never quit.
Great video and I’ve been turning wrenches for 40 years.. well done guys, I love that you really cleaned the caliper carrier “I want that snappy bead cabinet” nevertheless you emphasized all the critical points in this job that typically issues come from, I like to add slyglide to the piston dust boot and the slide pin boots .. just to keep them from drying out, I also add a dash of blue loctite to the carrier bolts and caliper bolts .. and great job on cleaning the hub face I spend several minutes on that then will apply slight layer of never seize or fluid film on my newly cleaned hub so the rotor will come off easy.. really great commentary and production all around 👍🏻
Great job Clayton .. and to all the shop staff that are meticulous as Clayton with cleaning and torquing to specs you guys are real hard working guys that we want doing the work for our vehicles carrying ourselves and loved ones
What brand of rotors do you use
@@WMGILMARTIN depends on the vehicle.. but for the VW/Audi which are the cars I have a mostly work on.. I like Zimmerman or Brembo
There are a number of really useful tips here. You've changed the way I do brakes. Thanks!
I do everything in this video but I also put assembly brake grease between the back of the pad and the shim. What I’ve found is that not doing that can sometimes allow the shim to shift forward into the rotor causing a noise. With the grease there it makes it stick to the pad much better even if the shim is a little loose from the factory. It also stops some noise since you’ll have grease in that area and technically they can shift a little and not dig into the rotor.
As a shop owner, I have found that putting a dab of break grease in between the hardware and the bracket. Makes a huge difference with phantom brake noise. Also, if you ever reuse the rotor and machine them, you need to wash them in hot, soppy water and use dish detergent. It removes the static charge and any little bits of metal that were stuck.
You’re absolutely right about the importance of torque specifications.
So many techs that I interact with seem to be disinterested in torquing bolts down properly in favor of the expediency of tightening by feel.
At the end of the day, I get it - they’re probably pressured to get vehicles off the lift ASAP, so no judgement from this corner.😅
As an amateur, I have the luxury of time, so I can be very detailed just like you guys 👍
Cutting corners is not cool. This is why I vet my mechanic shops and luckily only use Independent mechanics for my vehicle services. And I have a 2019 XC-40 and it's services are done by an Independent Volvo only at a mechanic/owner's shop. He's been in business since 1982, same location, so I trust him with no hesitation. I also have an Independent Lexus mechanic/owner that I found for my 2023 ES300h Ultra Luxury. He was trained by Toyota and Lexus and he performs all maintenance services on my new vehicle. I have have already had the oil & filter changes done twice with Liqui Moly Special Tech AA 0W16 and a Toyota OEM filter (once at 1,000 miles to replace the factory fluids and filter and once at 6,000 miles). Only have 8,200 miles on the Odometer.
Professional mechanic here, excellent video! Thank you so much, I learned a lot with it!
Fluid Film on a well cleaned hub, brake grease (e.g., Permatex Ceramic Extreme) on the caliper mounting brackets under the ant-rattle clips, and silicone-based grease (e.g., 3M silicone paste) on the caliper slide pins. It's the only way to go in the rust belt, and the best way to get maximum life from your brakes. Overall, a very well done video. Clayton did a great job cleaning out the bores on the caliper mounting brackets. This is an often overlooked, but very important, step. Also be sure the carefully check the condition of the rubber slide pin boots. They're your first line of defense for keeping water and grit away from your slide pins.
100%
what is your opinion on cracking the bleeder screws to press back in the caliper piston? You know for sure that bleeder screws in the rust belt love to shear off.
agreed. I use a soft wire brush in a drill to do the pin bores with the a vice. Works good AND fast
@@Doomzdayxxdepends how badly rusted they are and if you have already done them on that vehicle
This is the way
@@DoomzdayxxHeat is needed, crack them with a proper six sided socket or wrench(avoid flare wrenches).
I think these two are father son combo because the ponytails says family but this is great learning right here if all mechanics put their work online, I don’t think there will be any more shady mechanic mechanics. I will definitely trust these guys with my brakes. Brakes are your life and the fact that they have this attention to the smallest detail means that they actually care about their workand willing to share knowledge also means that they understand the importance of passing on information to the next generation
Hey guys Maine here. WOW! I have done my own brakes before but had no idea. This the most educational video I have ever seen. We need more mechanics like this! I want to make one more point. Watching Clayton do this job with his boss explaining what he is doing. You can tell from the video that Clayton respects his boss and vis versa. You sir, are not just knowledgeable but you are respected by your employees, and I can see why. When Clayton did not use the proper protection when he was blowing out the system, all you had to do was mention his name. He knew better, you did not ridicule etc... you said his name. He then put on his eyewear. Thank you so much for this video and also thank you for helping these young persons to provide for there families, educating them and treating them well. It is because of your standards you can see the work ethic that goes into there job. We need more like you and your team. P.S thank you for the education.
Think nepotism. Son/father. Wonder how he got the job.
Very good example of the right way to do a brake job! Only additional things I would mention are a thin layer of anti-seize like others have said and I seat the pads into the rotors with a short drive after. I drive up to 40 miles an hour then make an aggressive stop (without coming to a complete stop), then repeat the process about 10 times, then drive for 10 minutes without using the brakes to cool it down. The idea is to not let the vehicle come to a complete stop and have the pads seat their material evenly. I've noticed a huge difference in stopping performance after I started doing this.
That's called bedding the brakes and it makes all the difference in stopping power. It also reduces noise and increases the lifespan of your pads. Unfortunately pretty much no shops do this.
@@dayjeremy you're right . I didn't think about it before I started doing my own brakes but I imagine no major chain shop I've taken it to in the past would actually go out and burnish my brakes themselves. I live in the city. I bet they simply put them on and called it a day. "That'll be $950.00, buddy,"
When I do it, I'll go out to the back roads where no one is and as soon as I start, sure enough, some ass hat is right behind me! I've gotten so tired of that I just make them wait for me and they're thinking who is this idiot who keeps speeding up and then slamming on the brakes, LOL.
I've always replaced my own brakes but I've never addressed sticky slide pins, lubing contact points, cleaning off rust. I always wondered why my brakes don't last longer or why I get noisy brakes after. Now I know. Thx guys👍
same, I've done em before but not this thorough, will do a better job next time!
So excellent and methodical. It's perfect when you're done so it'll be like brand new again. More channels should be like this.
Been doing my own brakes for 43 years. At 69 my 2000 Dakota drum brakes were done by me in 2012. Doing them with all new hardware drums and shoes. Has 211,000 miles on it. Challenging as it is. I could never have my local shop do it for $200 a wheel. I cleaned and took off rust and three coats of black paint to the hub, axel and suspension. Look like new. It's my baby and I take care it, thanks for your video.
Found this by video chance and I can't imagine trying the cleaning and reassemble without it. Definitely shows that you teach this (and that you are a boss). The reasoning behind the actions is what helped me the most. Thanks for the help.