Common Mistakes Bleeding Brakes! How to Do a Full Brake Bleed the Right Way, and Why!
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- For More Info visit us at: 1aau.to/h/cFx/
Thought you should try bleeding your brakes, because the pedal is feeling squishy, or because you had to replace brake parts, or the fluid is old? This video will show you all the things you should do, as well as many things you shouldnt! Sue guides you through bleeding brakes the right way, and why you might need to do it, with the correct order in mind!
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For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/cFx/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
The brake system you are looking at on the vehicle is a split diagonal system. One port on the mast cylinder is connected to the right rear line and also connected to the left front line. The other port is connected to the left rear and also connected to the right front line. This design will keep the vehicle stopping straight in case you loose fluid pressure in one of the lines. This is in most vehicles today especially front wheel drive vehicles. You bleed the right rear then the left front. Or the left rear then right front. The system sue draws in the beginning is the front brake lines are using one port of the master cylinder and the rear is using the other. If one side looses pressure there is a proportion valve that will block off fluid to that system. Now you will have either front or rear brakes only. So let’s say you lose pressure to the front brakes and only have rear. The vehicle is not going to stop well and if it is bad weather even worse most likely spinning like a top. The split diagonal system if you loose pressure on one system you still have a front and rear brake to stop the vehicle straight.
Nice work! 👍
Only thing I might add and I'm not sure if I've ever experienced this before but I've seen comments where a few people say that air can get past the bleeder screw threads and cause bubbles in the bleeder line leading you to believe that it's air in the brake line when it's actually air getting through the bleeder screw threads and they say to put some grease around the bleeder screw so no air can get through the threads. IDK, just throwing it out there. Another thing I've noticed with the clear bleeder line that goes over the bleeder screw is that when the line is cold and hard or when it's old and hard that it might not make a good seal on the bleeder and air can get past that seal and into the line leading you to again think that it's air in the brake line. I think they need to come up with a better line or flexible fitting that won't harden like regular clear bleeder line like maybe silicone line or Tygon fuel line or something that stays maliable better in colder Temps or when it ages. Regular PVC hose or line seems to harden and not make a good seal in cold temps or after it gets some age on it.
Wow I have never said this on any video I’ve ever watched on RUclips. And it’s not because the videos were bad but, I have to say this lady knows her stuff. I’ve watched many on bleeding the brakes and she’s the first one I’ve watched that I can say without a doubt that I can easily bleed my brakes without referring back to the video. Great job! And now you’re my go to person/lady from now on when I need to learn something on my vehicle. Thank you so much for a through video. Namaste 🙏
Excellent young lady!!! Doing brakes on a 2019 jeep rubicon. Dealer says rotor, caliber and line. I found stuck caliper. $1600 from dealer, $400 to replace calipers, and ceramic shoes. Just bought vacuum to bleed brakes. Just refreshing my memory to do repair.
Hi Sue,
Your video is terrific. The tips you provide make complete sense and explanation for bleeding all four wheels even if only doing fronts makes it a no brainer to do. I've done brakes for years without issues but always with a peddle-pusher to assist. Your education for use of the single person kit has given me the confidence to go get one and try it on my own. I like your delivery. Thank you.
Thanks Sue. You have been giving me the confidence to work on my 2005 EX Honda Element. I live in the rust belt of WI, so i can relate to your videos 100%. I have to replace my drivers side CV axle because the inner boot is ripped and leaking. I now have the confidence after watching your videos.
I greatly appreciate your video. Out of all the videos on here, yours was the best one. I just finished a rear brake job on my 06 HHR and it was a horrible experience. I don't ever want to go through that ever again. The worst part were the main springs. Took two days to finish. Thank you for all your help!
I bought a vacuum bleeder kit that hooks up to my air compressor. I then can sit there and watch to fluid come out until it is clear and no air bubbles. Everything in this video is correct and Sue explains this very well. I learned more about other brake systems as well. Also, some years ago I bought some parts from 1A Auto for a 2001 VW I had at the time, a windshield wiper motor et al, and it was high quality and fit perfectly. Thank you 1A Auto for your attention to detail and quality.
Good video. What I'd add:
Always clean the outside of the reservoir and lid before opening.
Use a flare nut wrench.
Fill the reservoir from a pitcher with a nozzle or a funnel to get it where you need it and reduce the chances to spill any in the engine bay to next to nothing. Add a warning to immediately wash any spill off with water to not ruin parts and lacquer.
The end should be bringing the old fluid back to a place that properly dispose of it.
Torque specs of the repair manual should be followed.
1A Auto channel is awesome. I learned how to change my brake pads and rotors on my Honda Pilot and Subaru legacy by watching their videos. They saved me hundreds of dollars. I called Honda dealer and they priced me 1299 + tax. It cost me 300.00 total to do it myself. Thank you 1A Auto.
Absolutely love when your teaching us stuff! The amount of detail and explanation is always on point
I always check to see where the anti brake lock module is located to see what the sequence for bleeding the brakes or flushing the system will be. Sample the camaro has the master cylinder on the left side in front of the driver, but the anti lock brake module is on the passenger side. Looking at the lines the furtherest caliper is the right rear, left rear, right front left front. That would be the sequence. Personally I always flush the system whenever I'm replacing any brake set. A 32 ounce brake fluid bottle with a hose to the bottom and zip tight to keep it place is what I used to bleed or flush the brake system by myself. DOT 4 brake fluid is the way to go when DOT 3 or DOT 4 is called for. Love your videos.
This has to be the best video I’ve seen that was very explained in every detail, glad I found it thank you so much, looking forward to future videos.
Too much pedal travel when pumping up brakes. Have a new master cylinder on hand. She should know this. Not good
Thank you for taking the time to break down every detail for every tire and the purpose and importance of bleeding brake system.
Fantastic video. So much better than how I learned with my dad barking orders at me to press the brake which is about all I learned 34 years ago
Can we get a playlist of just Sue's content? Best mechanic and presenter you guys have by far. She's awesome.
Some cars (toyota) have ABS pump on the passenger side. So for the driver front it actually takes a longer journey for the fluid than the passenger front. So for that I start from driver rear wheel. Also when doing one-person bleeding, I apply a thick grease on the bleeder thread to prevent air from being sucked in via the threads.
yes i think she loosened the bleeder too much. Good tip to use grease
Thank you for the really great video and all the detailed information.
My additions would be, as some have already mentioned.
1) Use a small funnel to help direct any and all brake fluid into the reservoir without allowing anything to spill as brake fluid is corrosive.
2) I would place a nice shop towel all around the reservoir to also prevent accidental drips of brake fluid
3) The brake bleeding system you showed appears to have worked, but wasn’t a fan of insert a hard plastic piece inside the inner hole of the bleeder valve. I would prefer to use a correctly size hose that goes around the outside of the bleeder valves nipple to create a surely tight fit to prevent any air getting in when self bleeding your brakes.
4) They sell bleeding systems that also incorporate a one way inline valve that prevents any backward flow while self bleeding. You can also purchase this one way valve for your existing system.
Thanks again for your video your are my favorite for sure Sue!
Awesome teacher, thank you!! Sometimes, a cell phone video half showing up someone's nose is enough to get the gist, but brake bleeding is not one of those times!
Great tutorial. What about the ABS pump, though?
Haven’t even gotten through the ads and I’m already giving a thumbs up cuz you know it’s going to be a quality video!
Could you please explain is there any difference in bleeding a car's brake system with abs and without abs. I do believe that there is brake fluid in the lines leading to the abs pumps.
By the way this was a amazing video, like always 😊
From what I understand, the idea is the same but because of the ABS system, the order in which you bleed the brakes might differ. The master cylinder could be in the same place but the difference in the lines might change that order of furthest from the cylinder to closest. I'd also like a thorough explanation.
THANK YOU!! I am headed out to replace my left driver brake line now. I have watched several videos, all made by men, but instructions from woman to a woman just works better. There is no "implied garage knowledge" in your video, i.e. stuff that is lightly referred to and may not be known by someone never doing this before. New subscriber! I hope you have a video about replacing brake pads! 😂
In 23 minutes she is able to give sooo much information that I haven’t seen in 2 hour videos 😂.
She is funny and informative at the same time. Even though I’ve been doing everything she recommended, I kept watching.
She reminds me of my high school mechanic teacher. X army mechanic and he was full of information and knowledge, you better listen closely!
Thanks Mr. Cunningham, best teacher I had ever, even when I got detention for wrong torque spec.😂
Great tutorial. I would add checking and lubricating the slide pins on the brakes even if you didn’t replace parts. An ounce of prevention while the wheel is off.
Very comprehensive and thanks because I will review this video again when doing all 4's with new brakes, calipers, and flush. I love the videos in general as it teaches me a lot
If you don't do something to seal the threads of the bleeder nipple, you will always see air bubbles in the clear hose getting in via the threads. I would also recommend not pushing the pedal to the floor on each stroke, you can put a block of wood under it to be a temporary stop to limit the travel. Also you would need to use much more flushing and fluid to get most all of the old fluid out, at least a couple of pints
Whether old or new, I anneal the copper washers by heating them to bright red then letting it cool down. It softens the copper for a better seal.
The reason air bubbles make brakes overheat is because air compresses and decompresses, and bubbles act like a spring in the line (while hydraulic fluid doesn't compress). What happens is when you brake, the air bubble will compress, and then when you release the pedal, the air bubble will keep holding pressure and keep the piston pushing on the pad. Not a pressure anywhere as strong as when you brake, but just enough to keep a certain friction going and heat building up. You can check if your wheels are warm after driving on a highway for a while without braking. That "may" be a sign. Mainly if one wheel is much warmer than the others.
Sue your simply the best ! So clear ,no crappy music ,to the point and yet very detailed .thanks again for sharing .
First time viewer,subscriber and buyer.Thank you Sue for showing us the essentials,tips and tricks to bleeding the vehicles brake system properly.Very informative.Thanks again.
you've gotta be careful how far you twist that caliber bleed screw too, it can't be tto loose or it will still suck in air.
one of the best vids ever ! Im struggling with getting em brakes bled the right way after changing my calipers. Will try doing it again tomorrow with a fresh mind following you.
She is very good at putting out accurate information and process
Great job explaining how to do this! I shared it with my son, cause he has a Vette, and takes it Autocrossing. I think it might help him with his lap times. 👍
Great video. Thanks for confirming how a brake pedal should feel immediately after bleeding before and after starting the car. I first got very nervous when the pedal went to the floor after starting (when before starting, it was EXTRA firm). When idling, I pumped the pedal and it improved, but still SEEMED softer than before I guess because that EXTRA firm pedal threw-off my reference as to how it should feel. I stepped away for a half hour and came back brake pedal now feels normal :) Thanks again.
Thank you for being crystal clear and informative!
Spoke really well. She obviously knows what she is talking about. I learned a lot. Great demonstration.
What do you do when the brake fluid starts to come through the threads of the nipple? Can you use teflon tape there? Thanks
Someone mentioned using thick grease or petroleum jelly but I believe they were referring to the bleeder screw threads. I don’t use the pointy, black adapter I use another small piece of tube over the tube end coming out of the bottle and fit that over the end of the bleeder screw after loosening and lightly tightening, leaving the box end wrench on prior to the bleeding tube. Makes a secure seal. Also only opening the screw about 1/4 turn or just enough to let fluid out so as not to expose threads which would cause leaking and sucking in air.
Sue is my favorite her personality makes the video enjoyable thank you 1Auto
Too much knowledge to comprehend here. We just need to go back to the Flintstone days and use our hairy legs and bare feet to stop the vehicle.
I have to say that this was the BEST how to video. Great instructor that doesn't make a newbie feel dumb. 1A auto is going to be my first place I go.
Just what I needed! And a girl any motor-head could fall in love with.
Thank you so much for showing the right way to bleed brakes alone. I bleed them twice now and still had air in the line some where. Now I can try it a third time and do it the only right way.
Love everything about you Sue. Great teacher great video all the way around and love the enthusiasm and its kind of like Norm Abram from this old house but with cars with your new England accent. Bravo.
I used to have a 1979 Buick Lesabre in mint condition and I loved working on it even if there was nothing wrong with it. Love the videos , great information for sure.
I use a hand-squeeze vacuum to pull brake fluid with good results . Is it as effective as pumping the pedal 3x?
Thank you! My F-150 needs a good bleed. Your comment at the stop sign solved the riddle for me. If the pedal continues to go down... there's air in the system. Great video, Cheers!
+Barnaby Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Watching this video is a real confidence builder. Thanks .
Thank you Sue, you explained how to do in clear detail. Love your humor!
Nice video Sue. Well done.
Just finished replacing rotors, calipers, brake pads, front brake hoses on my 2004 Ram 2500. $$$
Will be bleeding the brakes tomorrow.
I have that bleeding kit….easier with two so one can see what is happening…but no air bubbles in the line is the goal. 👍
+Eric Frederick Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
great video and I.ve done many dozens of flushes and bleeds and I still learned something. I will get the kit!
I appreciate how thorough this video is on brake bleeding.
+HomelessOnline Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you! Sue is a very good instructor. And she cleans up her messes lol! Great video.
thank you so much for this informative video. i spent a lot of money on a mityvac brake bleeder that has a vacuum pump at the bleeder valve and learned that using that method sometimes causes air to be sucked in through the bleeder valve through the threads. all I was getting was air bubbles in rubber tube. I'm going to try your method tomorrow to see if it works better that way. these brakes haven't been bled since 2005 so it definitely needs new fluid because the stuff coming out was dark green and smelled like rotten fish lol.
This is an excellent video. Much better than most on the internet. Thank you!
I really appreciate good teachers like yourself, Sue! General question (or, maybe your opinion) for us DIYers who don't have a lift system at home: with only a floor jack and a pair of jack stands, can your bleeding process be done with only the front left in the lifted position? Or, does the vehicle have to be sitting level with all four wheels off the ground? Thanks!
Sue, you pleasantly entertain while you seriously enlighten. Great presentation.
I just did my own brake fluid flush :D
Many places told me nobody ever change brake fluid. I guess it takes time and they don't make that much money so they refuse to do it.
RUclips is amazing and DIY friendly
This dude knows alot about brakes! thanks for educating me!
Nice job Sue. I used to do this in the 80’s with my cousin who was a mechanic. Not much has changed last 40 years
Yeah, no abs, no 2,4 or 6 piston calipers, cupronickel brake lines, ceramic pads, carbon fiber disks, dot 4 fluid…..shall I continue ? Or are you only doing cars with single piston fronts and drum rears ala 20 years ago ?
Great job Sue ! Thank you.
Exceptional! Amazing job! Very thorough a detailed block of instruction! Very captivating and beautiful as well! 😉 Keep up the great work! 👍
Thanks for the time to do this kind of videos, with such level of detail.
You are very gifted as mechanic teacher, thanks and have a great day!!
Sue is awesome. "They're on the road out there with you". (Talking about crush washers). Thanks for the fantastic video
First time I’ve watched Sue, liked and saved! Most informative Auto Engineer I’ve come cross
straight to the point, no gimiks, very professional. thank you very much.
Beautiful. It does feel good to see a single person doing it like myself. 👍🏾
I tried some of that soft break line sold on Amazon never could get the double flare ends to seal. I had to go buy the old steel lines I think the problem is very soft and doesn't seal well with brass. Where steel lines double flared bites into brass connectors. There is a reason why factory uses steel lines because they are strong less chance of breaking the line open.
This was a fine brake bleed video. And, I must say, one of the more watchable videos from this channel.
Thanks a lot !! I live i a small town in Costa Rica , no mechanis around so Im a DIY , and your teaching is great 🥰
This was fantastic.
I had no idea how to use the 1 person bleeding tool..
Thank you so much..
I know it 2 years late ...
One of the best videos I have seen on brake work!! Excellent video sue!! 👍🇨🇦
good video. My gen 1 montero has both back wheels in line and the service manual provides brake bleeding instructions as 1: RR, 2: RF, 3: LF - skipping the left rear altogether as it gets bled by virtue of the right rear being bled. I've heard that mitsubishi gave that same instruction for monteros all the way up to the early 2000's
How about looking up the bleeding brake sequence in the service manual or online 🤔 ?
How much dirty fluid can you safely remove from master cylinder with the plunger or turkey baster without lettin air into the system?
2006 Buick Lucerne, rear brake lines are on the right side, rear left is the longest tube. It depends which side of the car the lines are on
Sue is amazing! Haha she’s got a spunky personality. I learned so much from her. Really made it entertaining
You have a great aura about yourself. Keep up the great videos!
YouR THEE BEST! ....as Im a single mom .and on one income..makin it tight budgeting...i totally can d.i.y. my.brakes booster...brakes are ALL.PROPERALLY BLEED..AND I KNOW.MY SONS AND.I.WILL BE SAFE..AND SAVE 💰🤑💰...GOD BLESS YOU AND PLEASE KEEP POSTING.
What a Charming Lovely Mechanic ! I love that this is prove that it's not only for men.
I used to be a mechanic before med school. You are really, really good. Now you go to med school too!
It is not a panic stop. It is called piss the tailgater off stop, lol. Bye their products, man, if the price is a few dollars difference. We don't have any Amazon sellers making any free how-to videos for us to view. I just bought a radiator from them. It is a lifetime warranty. Don't know how it works. Anyway, love the product and services. Wish they make this product earlier. Wow, u make it so clear to follow and understand. Great 1A auto video. Thanks.
Sue, you are the best presenter, nice humor too.
Great tip on brake bleeding.
This is REALLY helpful. Thank you for explaining that so clearly.
thanks you explained better than any machanic on youtube.
Nicely done!!! One of the better vids I've seen on this topic.
Sue makes great videos. Enjoyable and informative.
I have 2 questions for any/all brake experts: 1) does the brake fluid 'recirculate' thru the system? Like radiator fluid. I.e., if I remove half the old fluid, and refill the reservoir, it seems all the new fluid will stay up top, and the old fluid is down in the lines and calipers? 2) if there are 2-3-4 total brake lines, perhaps seperate to each wheel as Sue mentioned early in the video, and there are two air bubbles in the whole system , one in the longest line near the rear wheel, and a bubble just under the reservoir (or one of the lines near the manifold). Why would it matter which wheel I bleed when? I know that air bubble near the rear brake will drain out during bleeding. Ok That leaves some bubbles under the reservoir or in the manifold. Will those follow the new fluid to the next wheel and be bled out, or will they 'migrate' back to the line I just bled? Where are these bubbles located, and where are they going? If I bleed a short line first, do some bubbles mirgrate backwards into that line from another line,? Thank you in Advance, Bill
No the food does not circulate
As long as pressure is maintained, fluid stays where it is
gotta say I really enjoy Sue's vidoes. Only one I like from 1A auto.
Enjoyed your personality helping 1A with information
I always start with the drivers front. Also always use a larger receptacle to catch the brake fluid.
And no you don't necessarily need fluid already in the bottle. If you can get the vehicle to build up any kind of pressure it will put fluid in the hose. And it only takes back in what's right there at the bleeder screw
Not true. Air in the hose will go back into the line.
Great thx. Suggest teflon tape on threads of bleed valves - prevents future rusted up nightmares.
What kind? The yellow stuff for propane?
Thanks this helps me alot.
I have this problem on my F150 Ford 2002.
Will do it in the morning.
Great instruction and video there Ms. Sue. Thank you ma'am.
Thanks for the info. Very fine job. Question, please. I recently had my brakes done at a repair shop, front brakes and rotors. The next day, it started to smoke as the brakes locked up, had it towed back to the shop, then to a dealership for diagnostics. According to diagnostics, it says swelling on reservoir cap (brake fluid), also the mechanic put oil instead of brake fluid, needs a complete flush and replacement of rubber hoses. Is it safe to say that the mechanic/auto repair shop who did the brake work is responsible? Thank you.
Yes
Whoah! 😮
I've been mechanic in Europe for over 15 years and every European car says on the specs and on service bulletins to start at the closest from the ABS unit so left front then clockwise.
And every electric car that i must use diagnostic tool too bleed it has a step by step procedure and they also always start Left Front then clockwise.
But at school we where told the opposite, to start at Right Rear...
And if you spill just one drop brake fluid on anything CLEAN IMMEDIATELY! With water and a little soap or at least within 10 minutes as it destroys paint (no the "new" fluid is not paint safe either!)
And always push out a lot of fluid at the first wheel as the first 5 to 15 pumps is still old fluid on most cars, so i always do about 0.2 to 0.5 liters on first wheel
That's awesome! What happens if the vehicle has a stubborn ABS network? Especially if the ABS motor doesn't work to help bleed the unit.