These really are awesome to have. We have multiple cars so I bought the 'quick connects' and redid the hose ends. (Kinda like Air Tool Couplers) helps the hose from twisting up. Motive has cool bits to make the jobs sooo easy. Denatured Alcohol to clean things up when finished.
If a vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes, the order of bleeding is furthest from the ABS block. Otherwise, yes, furthest from the MBC. My ABS block is on the passenger side. So, I go _LR - RR - LF - RF_
Many of the new Audi's service manual call for approx. 30psi to bleed the brakes. This forces the ABS system valves open otherwise you get no flow to all of the calipers. You can do it with the Motive, you just have to pump it up until the needle goes past the 20psi mark. Even though the manual says 2 Bar (29+ psi), many say a little past 20 psi will work. I had a very slow flow from the rear Calipers on a '14 RS5 at just over 20psi.
Appreciate the tip. On many modern cars you can also see good results with using VCDS or another scan tool to run an ABS bleed, which runs the pumps and clears the valves of old fluid/air.
Finally bought a schwaben bleeder been doing it old school for 20 years I found with 20 psi on my 2015 A3 the fluid came out of the rear bleeder at the smallest slow stream barely visible. Called the ecs tuning about it (sorry fcp) and they had had a bad batch of bleeder supposedly getting new one. But I feel they say 20psi for liability reasons when you use shop air it's typically higher than 29psi.
PERFECT TOOLS for an easy job. Your VIDEOS are the best and all YOUR TIPS are awesome. Thanks Michael. Love watching all your Tutorials. WIll pick up a set
I installed a quick connect fittings in the line from the tank to the cap, makes installing easier as the tubing does not get twisted. Have been using this bleeder system for over 10 years.
I am starting to notice that factory service manuals for modern cars require a second person to pump the brake pedal WHILE the power/ pressure bleeder is connected and the bleeder nipple open, In other words the classic pump and hold method is added on the regular pressure bleeding process which is confusing, I always thought that pressure bleeding does not require any movement from the master cylinder, and that two person pump and hold sequence is only for the classic manual bleeding process, but factory service manuals are very specific about it , what's your thoughts on this?
On initial pumping there is air in the line from the pump to the reservoir. Where does that air go? How do you prevent it from being forced into the system under pressure? Thanks
My question exactly. There is also air on top of the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir/under the cap. If you watch the end of the video, just after he's done bleeding the system, and before he de-pressurizes the bottle, there's a big ol' air bubble sitting in the hose. I believe this air bubble literally stays on top of the fluid the entire time, and just like magic, doesn't get forced through any of the brake plumbing. Somehow the brake fluid flows and the air bubble always stays on top. This could be because that brake lines are such a small diameter, and you're only cracking open the bleeder valves and not allowing such a huge flow to allow the air to "gulp" through the system? I have the same question about engine coolant vacuum fill systems. Yet I use them, and they work too. Neither systems have any method to purge air before filling.
This is a physics question and has to do with fluid dynamics, static pressure, and the characteristics of air vs liquid. To keep it simple, as long as there is liquid in the reservoir, the air in the reservoir (or that you introduce via pressurizing) will not overcome the resistance of the liquid below it given a closed system. Air and liquid (esp brake fluid) are not inherently miscible, without strong outside force or chemical reaction. Remember - there is always *some* air in your reservoir anyway, even after you top off and close the cap, and it doesn't enter the line either. When you open the bleeder valve, you are easing the pressure only slightly, allowing the air to "push" the liquid through the system. We are talking about nominal static pressure here, 15-30 psi tops, which will not displace the liquid. It's the same theory that power bleeding systems operate under, so the Motiv system isn't doing anything novel here.
@edgark9814: Good qustion, you may be able to get rid of it by running some fluid into a catch bottle before attaching the tool to the brake fluid reservoir, or alternatively leave the hose end slightly above the reservoir until you see fluid coming out.
Always good to empty the reservoir and fill it with clean brake fluid before you attach the Power Bleeder. Much quicker than pushing all the old/dirty fluid through the system.
Well explained and shown. I am about to use this type of pressure bleeder for first time. My thoughts are that there is a lot of air at the top of reservoir and in the hose from the pressure unit. Fluid is filled into pressure vessel and pressurised. Q is where does the air go. Does it get displaced by fluid back up into the pressure unit . Have you experienced the air getting pushed into the brake pipes?
Did you first empty out the master cylinder? Or did you move all of that old brake fluid along with the new brake fluid through your first bleeder valve?
Do you need to prime the line from the pump to the reservoir? Where does all the air from the line go when the system pulls the fluid from the large bottle? Cheers
i use this allways dry. first i top cars reservoir and attach the tool. air wont get the brake system if cars reservoir has fluid. it wont matter if tool reservoir is empty cause that air wont go bottom of cars reservoir where fluid goes to brake system.
Are you saying that as you’re bleeding at each caliper (while maintaining the pressure in the bottle), you keep topping off the reservoir? That seems very inefficient unless the system is already very clean (meaning you would not need to bleed out much fluid at each caliper). I don’t see any advantage to your method, only disadvantages.
@@mabco888 i top it to full before i attach the tool. ammount witch reservoir hold is enough for bleeding all four korners. after bleedin remowe tool and top reservoir.
Great video, I was cheap so I went ahead and bought the "smotive" version of this device. I am actually really impressed with how feature rich it is however. There was a slight leak when I put it to 10psi ( could hear it but the psi did not decline rapidly). I adjusted the cap a bit and it seems to have gone away.. wondering if the threads on my reservoir are worn.
I bought a new Motive bleeder kit along with motive adapter that is advertised as compatible with Hyundai / Kia. I had mixed results. I just read the quick instructions on the box. ( No long detailed instructions paper included - you are supposed to print them from the Motive website & the FAQ's ) I skipped the dry test, where you connect the system, no fluid, & hold 13-15 psi pressure for ten minutes. and poured brake fluid into the Motive pump. I pumped and around 11 psi the adapter leaked fluid on my engine. NASTY. Of course, i picked the wrong size rubber o-ring adapter ( its not a spare they are different sizes).q I cleaned up. I then unscrewed the adapter, cleaned it , and screwed it back on, albeit tighter. Now the system holds pressure fine. Proceeded to bleed my brakes. Good. However, when I attempted to remove the motive adapter, it wouldn't turn. Tried & tried. Read on internet to double-check counterclockwise to remove . Waited for next day, my 250 lbs couldn't unscrew the adapter. Now im driving with the adapter still on but corked and encased in duct tape. Frustrating. I emailed Motive Support & they responded there is no procedure to remove an over tightened & wrong size rubber o ring. They pointed me to slip joint / Channel lock pliers .
Thank you, very detailed. I will get a pressure system instead of a vacuum system. Shade tree mechanic here, laying on the grass, no lift for the vehicle. 😁
These are nice tools. I needed one 'right now' so I made my own with a 1/2 gallon bug sprayer, it already had a 1/4" hose, cut off the sprayer, added some quick connect and hose fittings and there you have it. The sprayers are thick enough to drill and tap for a gauge but I put mine inline with the hose. I machined an aluminum cap for use on BMWs. I'll admit that finding caps to use is difficult so buying a unit like this with one or multiple caps for different vehicles is a big plus and definitely worth it. Also, I refill the master by hand and don't put fluid in the pressure tank. I wouldn't put the fluid back in the bottle and I don't, or won't, use fluid that's been in the tank for more than a couple hours so saving the cleanup is worth it.
@@Jakedelus How does that work, no air is introduced into the system that way? So for one caliper for instance you pressurize the system at pump(dry) and then bleed out the fluid until nothing is coming through the hose at that one bleeder then depressurize and disconnect the fitting at the master cylinder and fill it back up to the max line. Then repeat that process for every other caliper? Just trying to make sure I'm understanding correctly...
@@jeffherrington air wont go from reservoir to brake lines as long you have fluid in reservoir. No matter if you have fluid in bleeder tool container or not. And yes just like you say= pressurise the system with tool and go thru all brakes,disconnect tool and finaly top the reservoir to upper level.
Why didn’t you add fluid to the reservoir along with the motive pressure bleeder? You just added fluid to the motive pump. I would assume you’re pumping air first before the fluid even gets introduced to the reservoir by pumping the pressure in it right?
As I learned today, the little rubber gasket seal these Motive bleaders come with...is important, lol. Mine came with two, a smaller/thicker rubber gasket, and a larger/thinner one. Not knowing the difference I used the smaller of the two. It fit fine on the brake reservoir, and was holding pressure up until about 10psi, which is when it blew right off the top - spraying fluid everywhere. So yeah, if you're about to do this job and you're watching this video like I did....make sure you use the right gasket. Great video btw! Other than my own stupidity, the directions are spot on!
15psi should do 1 caliper. You'll know if you need to pump it again based on fluid flow from the bleeder screw. Always good to check the pump after each caliper to make sure psi is still good as well as fluid level in the bottle & master, but that shouldn't be a problem at all given the master is topped off before bleeding/flushing & that there is also plenty of fluid in the bottle. Some people actually leave the bottle dry which I'm thinking of trying which means you are disconnecting the bottle after each caliper & topping off the master each time.
Yeah, mine leaks from the pressure gauge now. Had 2 good uses from it over about 4 yrs. Leaked from new also, but thread sealant tape fixed it before. Not now
Someone please explain the physics of how the air between the fluid in the bottle and the fluid in the reservoir before pressurisation does not get pushed into the brake system?
Two things I learned using this this weekend is be careful to make sure the gasket doesn’t get pinched; you won’t know until brake fluid starts spilling all over the floor. Also if you own a mk7 GTI or similar put the cap somewhere where you won’t bump it, or you may spend 2 hours searching your engine bay for the f*cking thing. Learned both of these this weekend! 😂
@@AlexisRodriguez-yv6sf maybe pinched is the wrong word, but it definitely got out of place. I did snug it down quite a bit since the service manual for my car recommends bleeding at 29 psi, but just hand tighten
I have an 07 toyota tundra and am wanting to know if the adapter that comes with this is efficient for the job. I’m reading info that the adapter(s) that come with this kit are very good.
Should the lines from the reservoir be completed filled with fluid after pressuring? Seems like there’s a lot of air in mine and I don’t want to crack a bleeder and start pumping air through my brake lines
I have an issue with my daughters car. I replaced the rear right and left calipers, but in the interim of exchanging cores at the parts store, I lost a lot of fluid. Now as we're attempting to bleed the system, it either has a ton of air in the lines or something else has gone wrong. It doesn't seem to be gaining stiffness in the brake pedal as we move along from caliper to caliper. Do you think this system would be a good fit to resolve this situation? It's a 2014 Ford Escape.
Hi, no need to do so, the tool will push all the old fluid out and through the lines. If the fluid is very bad, you can extract it and then run the bleeder.
Like the OP said...if the fluid has been in the car a long time, would be good to syphon some out of the reservoir rather then push it thru the system.
Great video. One question, is there a benefit of sucking old fluid out of the reservoir and filling up with fresh fluid prior to the bleeder procedure? Thanks!
Spent at least 20 mins trying to get the pressure to hold on this thing. The brass thread on the end of the bleeder and the brass thread on the end of the reservoir tube required me to add some plumbers tape to the threads and then tighten the brass fittings down so that only God Himself will ever be able to un-tighten the connection. THEN finally I stopped seeing a pressure bleed. Buyer beware.
The first time I bleed brakes on my Truck, this motive bleeder worked perfectly. The Second Time I had a problem. I had filled the Motive Pump bottle 1/2 full of brake fluid, pumped the pressure up to 15 psi, and then began to bleed the brakes one wheel at a time, making sure I pumped up the pressure to 15 psi after each wheel. When I got done with the 4th Wheel, my Motive Bleeder was still half full of brake Fluid, but I didn't have any fluid in my brake fluid reservoir on my master cylinder. For some reason the motive bleeder wasn't keeping my brake fluid reservoir full as I bleed the brakes. Now I have to do it all over again.
2012 Volvo S80 T6. Swapped the front brakes to the XC60 dual piston calipers with the 336mm rotors. Bleeding the whole system just in time for some vacation trips 🎉
Wow, thanks for this video! I got my early American rectangular power bleeder kit 0105 last year. However, it looks like I did not use it correctly. I did not know the fluid goes into the pump kit! So it appears I did a bunch of back-and-forth running back-and-forth constantly filling up the fluid reservoir (after unchaining the cap) and having to put more air pressure back into the pump kit! Now I actually look forward to using this kit on my other vehicles. And of course it should go a whole lot faster. Can we use this kit on motorcycles too?
Would you guys recommend this when trying to bleed brakes after master cylinder was completely drained? I replaced my 2 front calipers and drained all the brake fluid from the system. The car sat for a year with no brake fluid and now that it has all the calipers and lines connected, I tried bleeding the system, but it still feels spongy and the brake pedal goes to the floor after what I thought was a successful bleeding job. Would appreciate some advice.
This is likely because you still have air hidden in the system . Did you Bench Bleed the Master Cylinder? need to Bench Bleed the Master Cylinder when it runs dry. Its NOT hard at all. And actually simple. I did my first one today and i had alot of air bubbles trapped in the Master C.
I ordered the bleeder kit for late model Chevy from Motive in Norton Shores Michigan. They took the money out of my account right away ($79.54). They emailed me a confirmation that had a box for tracking number. When I tried to track it I could get nothing. Emailed them the next day, no response. Tried to call them all there mail boxes were full. Tried next day same thing. Emailed and tried to call them every day for a week. Couldn't get any response. Called my bank today and reported them. Do not order anything from them! This really pisses me off. This is not a joke!!!
Down at the wheel, ensure the bleed hose is pointed upward before looping down into the catch can...That way theres no chance of air pockets returning back in the system if your pressure drops too low. Is always good to do a final bleed via the foot pedal...One benefit of this pressure system is it avoids eager foot travel on poorly serviced Vehicles.
@@shize9ine The seals within the master cylinder often collect sediment on the edges. The vacuum effect doesn't suck the fluid from all the crevasses in the sealed area but from the least resistance journey from the reservoir. Doing a final foot pump and holding down, while the bleed nipple is closed, ensures any old fluid surrounding the seals is flushed out of the cylinder where it can cause surface damage to the seals., and pushes the entire volume of fluid, rather than vacuum flow. Hence my comment regarding the "eager foot travel"... Cylinder bore's surface collects the sediment in the area where the travel area while pressurized does not reach...Using the foot pump method, one should not push the pedal further down than when the brake system is pressurized to avoid damaging the seals due to excessive travel in the cylinder... Tried to explain it in two or three examples... hope this helps.
@@peterlattimore6013 wish this was posted just two days ago instead of now. Flushed my brake system two days ago; when I got the car back on leveled ground, did the good ol’ method to pump the brake pedal before starting the car. May have pressed it too hard and too far, my brake pedal is now squeaking and potentially have damaged the master cylinder 😢 Welp, on the bright side, everyone’s gotta learn from their own mistakes!
@@louislaw8655 Spray some lithium grease up n under the pivot shaft of the pedal assembly... Never heard of noise being emitted from a leaky master cylinder... You may have just disturbed the surface of the shaft where it rotates... Can't give you any more confidence, I'm afraid...Good luck...
It is always a good idea to do that, if you don't want to waste new fluid. Just make sure the pressure bleeder is not pushing air up the tube before you start the bleed, as sometimes happens.
On an e92 m3….do you have to recalibrate or cycle the ABS system before driving? I’ve installed a Stoptech st40R trophy 4 piston BBK upfront and OEM rear. Front and rear have braided lines and race pads. Pedal is to squishy and long travel to my liking. I bled the system again, some more air came out.. pedal became firmer but not enough to my liking. What do we think it can be? Thank you
Nicholas, you may have to check your scan tool of choice to see if there is an option to perform a brake bleed procedure. Typically the ABS units will need to be bled if the system was run empty.
How do you know when you’ve bled each caliper enough? Especially if the fluid is the same color. Can’t seem to find that answer or how much fluid should we expect in each caliper.
Whenever I’ve done this, it’s always been easy to see the transition between the old fluid (amber or brown color) and the new stuff (clean looking and transparent). I guess it may be different if you’re working on a track car or something like that where the brake fluid is changed frequently, but for a normal car with fluid that’s probably a few years old, you shouldn’t have a problem.
What comes out must go in, if you end up purging a pint through the system then you do. The important thing is to do it enough that no further air bubbles exist any where in the system - it is best to get things gravity bleeding first before applying pressure, open bleeder into receptacle and keep master cylinder topped up and allow the liquid to begin flowing on it’s own.
Speed Bleeders are a good alternative. But, it's hard to determine what size and type of bleeder screws you can use. Information on applications can be hard to find.
Hi Sebastian, you can certainly do that using a scan tool usually only necessary if you introduce air into the system, or have very contaminated fluid.
Depends on your system you may have a valve that isolates the front and back in case of a sudden leak. You say you replaced the rears did a line break prior to your repair? The valve slides over to lock out the back tubing so that your front brakes still operate or vice versa if a fron line breaks. You need to locate the valve in the system and reset the position to allow flow to both halves.
Thank you for this video. I have few questions. I have Mercedes with SBC system (SBC stands for Sensotronic Brake Control and it's an electro-hydraulic brake system). It requires a bleeder to maintain pressure between 2 bar and 2.5 bar (that is 29 psi and 36 psi). Please tell me if you have any tools that can do it? Also what if I build the pressure up to 30 psi using this Motive bleeder? Will it hold such pressure or not? Thanks.
Not sure because Harley's have that 2 screw top on the master cylinder reservoir for the front brakes. They have an adapter plate for your classic rectangle car reservoir but I did not see the underside. If its just a big rubbery gasket with one hole through the middle of it to pressurize the system then you can probably use it on your harley's front brakes. Amazon search motive products 1115 adapter because i think youtube removes links.
I have 2018 Mercedes C300 4 matic non sport package. When Mercedes says to change brake fluid would procedure be the same other than pushing more fluid through until fluid is “clean”?
@@fcpeuro thanks and I’ll grab a kit when I’m due for service. Also, thanks for video on rear brakes for same 2018 C300, they came out great with your kit with Mercedes rotors and TRW ceramic pads 😎👍
I bought from this store and it is a garbage! It doesn’t hold the pressure long enough for me to bleed the fluid out! I pumped all through out the procedure cuz the pressure goes down like a flat tire!! I don’t know why!! And I don’t even know if I get the right pressure for my break system!! BS!! And the 2 tube connection was licking, I tried to tighten them up and put Teflon tape!! Im not sure if the one I got is defective. Its not worth it!!! 😡
Two possible scenarios as to why: #1) The o-ring is not sealing the cap where the pump is. That needs to be seated correctly for it to create an air tight seal. There is a groove it should sit in and if it's dislodged it will not build or hold pressure #2 ) The fitting between the vehicle specific adapter and power bleeder is a pipe thread. This needs to be very tight to seal and not leak,. If both of those areas are good it might just be a defective hand pump. We will replace it for you.
Purchased a unit and and pressure stayed at 15psi when testing for leaks. I then added fluid and pressurized again at 15psi. I then noticed the unit is not pumping fluid from the pressure pump hose to the brake fluid reservoir. Is the unit faulty?
Looking on amazon, there is a different kit for european vehicles, and american. Which automatically makes this the worst value bleeder kit in history. I have multiple vehicles, and it would be insane to need multiple kits for different vehicles. Fail.
Flush is done when you just want to flush out the fluid for fresh juice. A bleed typically refers to when you have opened the system and need to get air out of it.
If it's leaking air from the connection to the fluid reservoir, check the rubber gasket to make sure it is in place. You also sometimes have to tighten this down more than you think you might to create a good seal. Always be careful tightening however and be sure not to damage the plastic reservoir with too much twisting. Hope that helps!
There is a clear pick up tube that picks up from the bottom of the bleeder and this tube is attached to the "exit" tube where it exits the container. It is pretty much the same concept like your household spray cleaners. And you are observant ! So as the air is pumped into the container that contains fluid it, will push the fluid out into the brake reservoir. Hope this explanation helps.
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I went to highschool at the same time as mike....I remember him rolling around in a lowered purple e36 lol
I worked at the gay bar with him as dancers. 🎉
@@ttt69420gay car people? Now that's a fucking party
He looks like a lowered purple car type
@@ttt69420I bet all the (good people) were there !
😂
These really are awesome to have. We have multiple cars so I bought the 'quick connects' and redid the hose ends. (Kinda like Air Tool Couplers) helps the hose from twisting up. Motive has cool bits to make the jobs sooo easy. Denatured Alcohol to clean things up when finished.
Does motiv sell the quick connects? Hate having the thing twist up
@@TheBaccaClench Yes, under 'Replacement Parts and Accessories'
Thanks for a great video detailing a brake fluid flush. Glad you included the tidbits and pitfalls to avoid. Outstanding!
Thank you for watching!
If a vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes, the order of bleeding is furthest from the ABS block. Otherwise, yes, furthest from the MBC. My ABS block is on the passenger side. So, I go _LR - RR - LF - RF_
Many of the new Audi's service manual call for approx. 30psi to bleed the brakes. This forces the ABS system valves open otherwise you get no flow to all of the calipers. You can do it with the Motive, you just have to pump it up until the needle goes past the 20psi mark. Even though the manual says 2 Bar (29+ psi), many say a little past 20 psi will work. I had a very slow flow from the rear Calipers on a '14 RS5 at just over 20psi.
Appreciate the tip. On many modern cars you can also see good results with using VCDS or another scan tool to run an ABS bleed, which runs the pumps and clears the valves of old fluid/air.
Finally bought a schwaben bleeder been doing it old school for 20 years I found with 20 psi on my 2015 A3 the fluid came out of the rear bleeder at the smallest slow stream barely visible. Called the ecs tuning about it (sorry fcp) and they had had a bad batch of bleeder supposedly getting new one. But I feel they say 20psi for liability reasons when you use shop air it's typically higher than 29psi.
PERFECT TOOLS for an easy job. Your VIDEOS are the best and all YOUR TIPS are awesome. Thanks Michael. Love watching all your Tutorials. WIll pick up a set
I installed a quick connect fittings in the line from the tank to the cap, makes installing easier as the tubing does not get twisted. Have been using this bleeder system for over 10 years.
I am starting to notice that factory service manuals for modern cars require a second person to pump the brake pedal WHILE the power/ pressure bleeder is connected and the bleeder nipple open, In other words the classic pump and hold method is added on the regular pressure bleeding process
which is confusing, I always thought that pressure bleeding does not require any movement from the master cylinder, and that two person pump and hold sequence is only for the classic manual bleeding process, but factory service manuals are very specific about it , what's your thoughts on this?
Amazing video. Clean lighting. Steady camera work. Very professional!
10/10 video, just in time for my brake flush
Can you attach this to any vehicle..and what a great straight to the piont video..thank you
On initial pumping there is air in the line from the pump to the reservoir. Where does that air go? How do you prevent it from being forced into the system under pressure?
Thanks
Dang good question!
My question exactly. There is also air on top of the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir/under the cap. If you watch the end of the video, just after he's done bleeding the system, and before he de-pressurizes the bottle, there's a big ol' air bubble sitting in the hose. I believe this air bubble literally stays on top of the fluid the entire time, and just like magic, doesn't get forced through any of the brake plumbing. Somehow the brake fluid flows and the air bubble always stays on top. This could be because that brake lines are such a small diameter, and you're only cracking open the bleeder valves and not allowing such a huge flow to allow the air to "gulp" through the system?
I have the same question about engine coolant vacuum fill systems. Yet I use them, and they work too. Neither systems have any method to purge air before filling.
This is a physics question and has to do with fluid dynamics, static pressure, and the characteristics of air vs liquid. To keep it simple, as long as there is liquid in the reservoir, the air in the reservoir (or that you introduce via pressurizing) will not overcome the resistance of the liquid below it given a closed system. Air and liquid (esp brake fluid) are not inherently miscible, without strong outside force or chemical reaction. Remember - there is always *some* air in your reservoir anyway, even after you top off and close the cap, and it doesn't enter the line either. When you open the bleeder valve, you are easing the pressure only slightly, allowing the air to "push" the liquid through the system. We are talking about nominal static pressure here, 15-30 psi tops, which will not displace the liquid. It's the same theory that power bleeding systems operate under, so the Motiv system isn't doing anything novel here.
what about the air thats stuck iin the motive bleeder tube before you pump it up? Will that air go thru the reservoir and into the lines?
@edgark9814: Good qustion, you may be able to get rid of it by running some fluid into a catch bottle before attaching the tool to the brake fluid reservoir, or alternatively leave the hose end slightly above the reservoir until you see fluid coming out.
No. It is just caught in the reservoir.
The air should stay at the empty section of the reservoir.
Always good to empty the reservoir and fill it with clean brake fluid before you attach the Power Bleeder. Much quicker than pushing all the old/dirty fluid through the system.
Great tip!
Bleeding from the furthest is true on older vehicles but newer are different, he’s right, check the repair manual first.
Well explained and shown. I am about to use this type of pressure bleeder for first time. My thoughts are that there is a lot of air at the top of reservoir and in the hose from the pressure unit. Fluid is filled into pressure vessel and pressurised. Q is where does the air go. Does it get displaced by fluid back up into the pressure unit . Have you experienced the air getting pushed into the brake pipes?
Doesn’t the leftover fluid in the hose spill when when you’re done and disconnect it from the master cylinder cap?
Did you first empty out the master cylinder? Or did you move all of that old brake fluid along with the new brake fluid through your first bleeder valve?
I believe they moved the old oil through to avoid any air getting into the lines.
Love mine. I use it dry when I rotate tires - simple enough to do and top off in between jacking up each corner.
Do you need to prime the line from the pump to the reservoir? Where does all the air from the line go when the system pulls the fluid from the large bottle? Cheers
i use this allways dry. first i top cars reservoir and attach the tool. air wont get the brake system if cars reservoir has fluid. it wont matter if tool reservoir is empty cause that air wont go bottom of cars reservoir where fluid goes to brake system.
Are you saying that as you’re bleeding at each caliper (while maintaining the pressure in the bottle), you keep topping off the reservoir? That seems very inefficient unless the system is already very clean (meaning you would not need to bleed out much fluid at each caliper). I don’t see any advantage to your method, only disadvantages.
@@mabco888 i top it to full before i attach the tool. ammount witch reservoir hold is enough for bleeding all four korners. after bleedin remowe tool and top reservoir.
Great video, I was cheap so I went ahead and bought the "smotive" version of this device. I am actually really impressed with how feature rich it is however. There was a slight leak when I put it to 10psi ( could hear it but the psi did not decline rapidly). I adjusted the cap a bit and it seems to have gone away.. wondering if the threads on my reservoir are worn.
I bought a new Motive bleeder kit along with motive adapter that is advertised as compatible with Hyundai / Kia. I had mixed results. I just read the quick instructions on the box. ( No long detailed instructions paper included - you are supposed to print them from the Motive website & the FAQ's ) I skipped the dry test, where you connect the system, no fluid, & hold 13-15 psi pressure for ten minutes. and poured brake fluid into the Motive pump. I pumped and around 11 psi the adapter leaked fluid on my engine. NASTY. Of course, i picked the wrong size rubber o-ring adapter ( its not a spare they are different sizes).q I cleaned up. I then unscrewed the adapter, cleaned it , and screwed it back on, albeit tighter. Now the system holds pressure fine. Proceeded to bleed my brakes. Good. However, when I attempted to remove the motive adapter, it wouldn't turn. Tried & tried. Read on internet to double-check counterclockwise to remove . Waited for next day, my 250 lbs couldn't unscrew the adapter. Now im driving with the adapter still on but corked and encased in duct tape. Frustrating. I emailed Motive Support & they responded there is no procedure to remove an over tightened & wrong size rubber o ring. They pointed me to slip joint / Channel lock pliers .
Thanks!
Thank you, very detailed. I will get a pressure system instead of a vacuum system. Shade tree mechanic here, laying on the grass, no lift for the vehicle. 😁
These are nice tools. I needed one 'right now' so I made my own with a 1/2 gallon bug sprayer, it already had a 1/4" hose, cut off the sprayer, added some quick connect and hose fittings and there you have it. The sprayers are thick enough to drill and tap for a gauge but I put mine inline with the hose. I machined an aluminum cap for use on BMWs. I'll admit that finding caps to use is difficult so buying a unit like this with one or multiple caps for different vehicles is a big plus and definitely worth it. Also, I refill the master by hand and don't put fluid in the pressure tank. I wouldn't put the fluid back in the bottle and I don't, or won't, use fluid that's been in the tank for more than a couple hours so saving the cleanup is worth it.
I did something for my power steering system, drilled a hole in a factory cap then stuck a quick connect on to it... voila. Doing stuff is fun right?
i use it same way and same reason. adding fluid only master and tool container only air. working well that way.
@@Jakedelus
How does that work, no air is introduced into the system that way? So for one caliper for instance you pressurize the system at pump(dry) and then bleed out the fluid until nothing is coming through the hose at that one bleeder then depressurize and disconnect the fitting at the master cylinder and fill it back up to the max line. Then repeat that process for every other caliper? Just trying to make sure I'm understanding correctly...
@@jeffherrington air wont go from reservoir to brake lines as long you have fluid in reservoir. No matter if you have fluid in bleeder tool container or not. And yes just like you say= pressurise the system with tool and go thru all brakes,disconnect tool and finaly top the reservoir to upper level.
@@Jakedelus Oh alright, good deal and thanks for the response to confirm 👍
Great post
Thank you for watching!
Does this work with any vehice?
Sweet, now I don’t need to make any friends just for this
Why didn’t you add fluid to the reservoir along with the motive pressure bleeder? You just added fluid to the motive pump. I would assume you’re pumping air first before the fluid even gets introduced to the reservoir by pumping the pressure in it right?
You can certainly top off the reserve if you'd like first, but it's not mandatory!
That beemer ASMR tho 🥸
As I learned today, the little rubber gasket seal these Motive bleaders come with...is important, lol. Mine came with two, a smaller/thicker rubber gasket, and a larger/thinner one. Not knowing the difference I used the smaller of the two. It fit fine on the brake reservoir, and was holding pressure up until about 10psi, which is when it blew right off the top - spraying fluid everywhere. So yeah, if you're about to do this job and you're watching this video like I did....make sure you use the right gasket. Great video btw! Other than my own stupidity, the directions are spot on!
So you stand at the master while it's bleeding each wheel and pump as needed? Or does 15 lbs of pressure do one caliper or lines worth of bleeding?
15psi should do 1 caliper. You'll know if you need to pump it again based on fluid flow from the bleeder screw.
Always good to check the pump after each caliper to make sure psi is still good as well as fluid level in the bottle & master, but that shouldn't be a problem at all given the master is topped off before bleeding/flushing & that there is also plenty of fluid in the bottle.
Some people actually leave the bottle dry which I'm thinking of trying which means you are disconnecting the bottle after each caliper & topping off the master each time.
Well done. But the adapter cap has to be specific to your car model. Toyota adapters expensive.
Alas the seals fail after a year on these. I just went to the spray bottle and vaccum tube method.
Yeah, mine leaks from the pressure gauge now. Had 2 good uses from it over about 4 yrs. Leaked from new also, but thread sealant tape fixed it before. Not now
Someone please explain the physics of how the air between the fluid in the bottle and the fluid in the reservoir before pressurisation does not get pushed into the brake system?
You cannot ccompress a liquid (brake fluid) but you can compress a gas (air)
When using this tool to bleed the clutch slave, do you need to pump the clutch pedal at any time during the process, or after the process?
You can pump it while the system is pressurized, but there is no real need to do so.
Two things I learned using this this weekend is be careful to make sure the gasket doesn’t get pinched; you won’t know until brake fluid starts spilling all over the floor. Also if you own a mk7 GTI or similar put the cap somewhere where you won’t bump it, or you may spend 2 hours searching your engine bay for the f*cking thing. Learned both of these this weekend! 😂
How many n the world would the gasket get pinched? You mean by tightening the motive cap too tight in your reservoir?
@@AlexisRodriguez-yv6sf maybe pinched is the wrong word, but it definitely got out of place. I did snug it down quite a bit since the service manual for my car recommends bleeding at 29 psi, but just hand tighten
I have an 07 toyota tundra and am wanting to know if the adapter that comes with this is efficient for the job. I’m reading info that the adapter(s) that come with this kit are very good.
Should the lines from the reservoir be completed filled with fluid after pressuring? Seems like there’s a lot of air in mine and I don’t want to crack a bleeder and start pumping air through my brake lines
I have an issue with my daughters car. I replaced the rear right and left calipers, but in the interim of exchanging cores at the parts store, I lost a lot of fluid. Now as we're attempting to bleed the system, it either has a ton of air in the lines or something else has gone wrong. It doesn't seem to be gaining stiffness in the brake pedal as we move along from caliper to caliper. Do you think this system would be a good fit to resolve this situation? It's a 2014 Ford Escape.
Should we empty the reservoir first and pull the old liquid out?
Hi, no need to do so, the tool will push all the old fluid out and through the lines. If the fluid is very bad, you can extract it and then run the bleeder.
Like the OP said...if the fluid has been in the car a long time, would be good to syphon some out of the reservoir rather then push it thru the system.
Great video. One question, is there a benefit of sucking old fluid out of the reservoir and filling up with fresh fluid prior to the bleeder procedure? Thanks!
The benefit is that you are pushing mostly clean new fluid through the system instead of the old stuff.
Spent at least 20 mins trying to get the pressure to hold on this thing. The brass thread on the end of the bleeder and the brass thread on the end of the reservoir tube required me to add some plumbers tape to the threads and then tighten the brass fittings down so that only God Himself will ever be able to un-tighten the connection. THEN finally I stopped seeing a pressure bleed. Buyer beware.
Im assumimg same thing but for the clutch. I believe i got air that cant get out.
Thanks for sharing, are there any spesific name of that bottle bleeder sir?
This tool seems to work well on ABS and non-ABS. GREAT video hope to buy pressure bleeder. Thanks
Great vid! Do they sell the anodized cap in case you want to upgrade your standard Motiv bleeder?
When you pump pressure forcing fluid over into the master cyl what happened to the air that was in the hose and master cyl ?
Any air in the system will be pushed out via the brake lines and can be seen when cracking open the bleeder valve on the caliper.
The first time I bleed brakes on my Truck, this motive bleeder worked perfectly. The Second Time I had a problem. I had filled the Motive Pump bottle 1/2 full of brake fluid, pumped the pressure up to 15 psi, and then began to bleed the brakes one wheel at a time, making sure I pumped up the pressure to 15 psi after each wheel. When I got done with the 4th Wheel, my Motive Bleeder was still half full of brake Fluid, but I didn't have any fluid in my brake fluid reservoir on my master cylinder. For some reason the motive bleeder wasn't keeping my brake fluid reservoir full as I bleed the brakes. Now I have to do it all over again.
Nice job guys.
Thank you, Kevin!
Why no mention of BMW's requirement to actuate the ABS Unit's valves using an OBD Scanner tool when performing a brake flush?
Thanks bro you are awesome. I am doing my 2020 WRX tomorrow morning. You helped me out tremendously, and I appreciate it😎👊🤘
2012 Volvo S80 T6. Swapped the front brakes to the XC60 dual piston calipers with the 336mm rotors. Bleeding the whole system just in time for some vacation trips 🎉
Will this work on Chevrolet vehicles?
Wow, thanks for this video! I got my early American rectangular power bleeder kit 0105 last year. However, it looks like I did not use it correctly. I did not know the fluid goes into the pump kit! So it appears I did a bunch of back-and-forth running back-and-forth constantly filling up the fluid reservoir (after unchaining the cap) and having to put more air pressure back into the pump kit!
Now I actually look forward to using this kit on my other vehicles. And of course it should go a whole lot faster.
Can we use this kit on motorcycles too?
Do you have to refill the master cylinder with brake fluid doing bleeding
You always want to be sure to have fluid in the reservoir while bleeding your brake hydraulics.
Would you guys recommend this when trying to bleed brakes after master cylinder was completely drained? I replaced my 2 front calipers and drained all the brake fluid from the system. The car sat for a year with no brake fluid and now that it has all the calipers and lines connected, I tried bleeding the system, but it still feels spongy and the brake pedal goes to the floor after what I thought was a successful bleeding job. Would appreciate some advice.
100%. Depending on the type of vehicle you have, you may need to actuate the ABS pump to get any air out of that as well.
This is likely because you still have air hidden in the system . Did you Bench Bleed the Master Cylinder? need to Bench Bleed the Master Cylinder when it runs dry. Its NOT hard at all. And actually simple. I did my first one today and i had alot of air bubbles trapped in the Master C.
I ordered the bleeder kit for late model Chevy from Motive in Norton Shores Michigan. They took the money out of my account right away ($79.54). They emailed me a confirmation that had a box for tracking number. When I tried to track it I could get nothing. Emailed them the next day, no response. Tried to call them all there mail boxes were full. Tried next day same thing. Emailed and tried to call them every day for a week. Couldn't get any response. Called my bank today and reported them.
Do not order anything from them! This really pisses me off. This is not a joke!!!
Is the cap universal? Will it fit a 1992 Miata?
Down at the wheel, ensure the bleed hose is pointed upward before looping down into the catch can...That way theres no chance of air pockets returning back in the system if your pressure drops too low.
Is always good to do a final bleed via the foot pedal...One benefit of this pressure system is it avoids eager foot travel on poorly serviced Vehicles.
Excellent point Peter!
Honest question - why the final bleed using the classic method?
@@shize9ine The seals within the master cylinder often collect sediment on the edges. The vacuum effect doesn't suck the fluid from all the crevasses in the sealed area but from the least resistance journey from the reservoir.
Doing a final foot pump and holding down, while the bleed nipple is closed, ensures any old fluid surrounding the seals is flushed out of the cylinder where it can cause surface damage to the seals., and pushes the entire volume of fluid, rather than vacuum flow.
Hence my comment regarding the "eager foot travel"... Cylinder bore's surface collects the sediment in the area where the travel area while pressurized does not reach...Using the foot pump method, one should not push the pedal further down than when the brake system is pressurized to avoid damaging the seals due to excessive travel in the cylinder... Tried to explain it in two or three examples... hope this helps.
@@peterlattimore6013 wish this was posted just two days ago instead of now. Flushed my brake system two days ago; when I got the car back on leveled ground, did the good ol’ method to pump the brake pedal before starting the car. May have pressed it too hard and too far, my brake pedal is now squeaking and potentially have damaged the master cylinder 😢
Welp, on the bright side, everyone’s gotta learn from their own mistakes!
@@louislaw8655 Spray some lithium grease up n under the pivot shaft of the pedal assembly... Never heard of noise being emitted from a leaky master cylinder... You may have just disturbed the surface of the shaft where it rotates... Can't give you any more confidence, I'm afraid...Good luck...
Do you need to empty the reservoir before attaching the bleeder?
It is always a good idea to do that, if you don't want to waste new fluid. Just make sure the pressure bleeder is not pushing air up the tube before you start the bleed, as sometimes happens.
On an e92 m3….do you have to recalibrate or cycle the ABS system before driving? I’ve installed a Stoptech st40R trophy 4 piston BBK upfront and OEM rear. Front and rear have braided lines and race pads. Pedal is to squishy and long travel to my liking. I bled the system again, some more air came out.. pedal became firmer but not enough to my liking. What do we think it can be? Thank you
Nicholas, you may have to check your scan tool of choice to see if there is an option to perform a brake bleed procedure. Typically the ABS units will need to be bled if the system was run empty.
How do you know when you’ve bled each caliper enough? Especially if the fluid is the same color. Can’t seem to find that answer or how much fluid should we expect in each caliper.
Whenever I’ve done this, it’s always been easy to see the transition between the old fluid (amber or brown color) and the new stuff (clean looking and transparent). I guess it may be different if you’re working on a track car or something like that where the brake fluid is changed frequently, but for a normal car with fluid that’s probably a few years old, you shouldn’t have a problem.
What comes out must go in, if you end up purging a pint through the system then you do. The important thing is to do it enough that no further air bubbles exist any where in the system - it is best to get things gravity bleeding first before applying pressure, open bleeder into receptacle and keep master cylinder topped up and allow the liquid to begin flowing on it’s own.
Mike, where can I buy one of those "hood Lights" you're using in this video? Jeff, Ohio
Right here my friend!
www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/?keywords=hood%20light
Speed Bleeders are a good alternative. But, it's hard to determine what size and type of bleeder screws you can use. Information on applications can be hard to find.
What about using a scan tool to open the abs system to allow for a complete bleeding of the lines ?
Hi Sebastian, you can certainly do that using a scan tool usually only necessary if you introduce air into the system, or have very contaminated fluid.
Should you active the abs while doing this? I replaced rear calipers and brake lines and can’t get brakes bleed for shit.
Depends on your system you may have a valve that isolates the front and back in case of a sudden leak. You say you replaced the rears did a line break prior to your repair? The valve slides over to lock out the back tubing so that your front brakes still operate or vice versa if a fron line breaks. You need to locate the valve in the system and reset the position to allow flow to both halves.
Why after all that the breaks feel squishy
If you are removing the bleeder screws, do you first remove the screws and then pressurize the system, to bleed that fluid?
Thank you for this video. I have few questions. I have Mercedes with SBC system (SBC stands for Sensotronic Brake Control and it's an electro-hydraulic brake system). It requires a bleeder to maintain pressure between 2 bar and 2.5 bar (that is 29 psi and 36 psi). Please tell me if you have any tools that can do it? Also what if I build the pressure up to 30 psi using this Motive bleeder? Will it hold such pressure or not? Thanks.
How do I find the right master cylinder cap adapter for jeep kl 2015 or how do I know the generic one will work
nice tutorial looking very easy to bleed in that style great
Will this work on a 3rd gen 4Runner, I noticed on the website European cars are the only option
Is there different types of adapters for the revisor?
This is a very good idea but I would like to use it on my Harley’s Brake system.
Not sure because Harley's have that 2 screw top on the master cylinder reservoir for the front brakes. They have an adapter plate for your classic rectangle car reservoir but I did not see the underside. If its just a big rubbery gasket with one hole through the middle of it to pressurize the system then you can probably use it on your harley's front brakes. Amazon search motive products 1115 adapter because i think youtube removes links.
@@shize9ine thank you.
Most have a chain style that wraps around it then clamps down.
I have 2018 Mercedes C300 4 matic non sport package. When Mercedes says to change brake fluid would procedure be the same other than pushing more fluid through until fluid is “clean”?
Hi joe, you would want to use at least one liter of fluid to flush out the system, just like how we did on the X1 in this video.
@@fcpeuro thanks and I’ll grab a kit when I’m due for service. Also, thanks for video on rear brakes for same 2018 C300, they came out great with your kit with Mercedes rotors and TRW ceramic pads 😎👍
Does this removes air too, assuming yes but he didn't mention that on this video....?
do you still have to bench bleed the master cylinder using this method?
Not necessary, but also not a bad idea when installing a brand new unit.
And what about ABS module?. How bleed air in it with scanner?.
Can I have someone pump too? Will that
Make it faster and better?
I bought from this store and it is a garbage! It doesn’t hold the pressure long enough for me to bleed the fluid out! I pumped all through out the procedure cuz the pressure goes down like a flat tire!! I don’t know why!! And I don’t even know if I get the right pressure for my break system!! BS!! And the 2 tube connection was licking, I tried to tighten them up and put Teflon tape!! Im not sure if the one I got is defective. Its not worth it!!! 😡
Two possible scenarios as to why:
#1) The o-ring is not sealing the cap where the pump is. That needs to be seated correctly for it to create an air tight seal. There is a groove it should sit in and if it's dislodged it will not build or hold pressure
#2 ) The fitting between the vehicle specific adapter and power bleeder is a pipe thread. This needs to be very tight to seal and not leak,.
If both of those areas are good it might just be a defective hand pump. We will replace it for you.
Purchased a unit and and pressure stayed at 15psi when testing for leaks. I then added fluid and pressurized again at 15psi. I then noticed the unit is not pumping fluid from the pressure pump hose to the brake fluid reservoir. Is the unit faulty?
Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
Where do I get one that works on 3rd gen 4runner? The master cylinder has a snap on cap.
Have the bleeder. What’s the part number for the red cap on a 18 c63S?
Excellent how to vid 😎👍
Glad you enjoyed it
I wish I could find an adapter for 4th gen Prius…?
Don't tell us what model car the cap will fit, lol
The European bleeder kit fits the majority of European vehicles as they all have the same ATE fluid reservoir threaded cap.
how do I know what size is my brake reservoir cap is?
Looking on amazon, there is a different kit for european vehicles, and american. Which automatically makes this the worst value bleeder kit in history. I have multiple vehicles, and it would be insane to need multiple kits for different vehicles.
Fail.
What is different between flush and bleed?
Flush is done when you just want to flush out the fluid for fresh juice. A bleed typically refers to when you have opened the system and need to get air out of it.
Im pretty sure you can use these on hydraulic clutch systems too, i need to do both brake and clutch to my car
Thank you my good person.
😎
W bmw f30 zaczynamy od przedniej czy tylnej osi???
I'm using the tool right now in Volkswagen touareg. It's leaking air. Can you please help me ?
If it's leaking air from the connection to the fluid reservoir, check the rubber gasket to make sure it is in place. You also sometimes have to tighten this down more than you think you might to create a good seal. Always be careful tightening however and be sure not to damage the plastic reservoir with too much twisting. Hope that helps!
is it the same cap for all brake reservoirs ? i'e all brands of cars?
Was the fluid from the pressure bottle line to the master cylinder cap completely full of fluid? Or were there gaps of fluid in that hose?
That line will never be completely "full" of fluid; they always have gaps in them, so totally normal if that is what you are seeing!
FRONT LEFT,REAR LEFT ,FRONT RIGHT,FRONT LEFT?????????
Walker Mary Clark Brian Williams Laura
Yes
I dont understand how the pressurized reservoir works. How is it not just pushing air out since the exit nozzle is on top??
There is a clear pick up tube that picks up from the bottom of the bleeder and this tube is attached to the "exit" tube where it exits the container. It is pretty much the same concept like your household spray cleaners. And you are observant ! So as the air is pumped into the container that contains fluid it, will push the fluid out into the brake reservoir. Hope this explanation helps.
will this Motive Bleeder Kit fit my 2009 XC90? Jeff
Yes it will!