I bought this same kit after watching this video. Best $30 I've ever spent. Works great. Amazing how much better the brakes feel after flushing them. From wheels up to wheels back down, I was done in 1 hr.
Nice video. One hint though. If you point the hose upward from the bleeder it's easier to see when the air bubbles are gone and just clear fluid is running out. You can also hold one finger on the back of the rubber fitting to ensure a good seal. That's one nice thing about this kit with the one handed trigger operation. Others have a lever and it take two hands to turn it on and off.
It's people like you that make RUclips annoying. Wait, I mean, I come here for great tips like yours and it forces me to see all of the others. It would be better if all of the comments were useless so I could just ignore it. 😅 Thanks
After fifty years of bleeding brakes by many methods, I wish I would have had this tool years ago. Just tried it on a difficult old Toyota Landcruiser job that included a new master cylinder. Really dirty lines and cylinders. Lots of air to deal with. The HF air vacuum bleeder made an otherwise pain in the ass procedure really fast and pleasant. Now I can do my own brake flushes on my other cars--and save the $120 charged by shops.
just ordered a kit like this for myself, I'm tired of the old methods and this seems to work pretty dang good. Fingers crossed it'll solve my spongy brakes.
tomorrow bleeding my 74 VW beetle, I just was not sure how to use this machine, thank you! It is so much faster than by having another person pump the brake pedal.
@@joshgutierrez7380 Not really. Plus, that whole system is worthless junk. The working system would be the air powered units used by mechanics and me being the Branick Industries Brake Bleeder . It forces fluid into the brake master cylinder flushing air from the system, and making bleeding brakes on all 4 wheels easy.
May be worth a try; Certainly better than using a Myti-Vac hand vacuum pump. It should be adequate for changing fluid, but if one is bleeding the brake system, e.g. after a master cylinder change, it's difficult with vacuum bleeding because the threads on the loosened bleeder valve always leak a little and introduce bubbles into the stream; it's hard to tell where those are coming from, the system or just those leaky threads. Pressure bleeding from the master cylinder is the best method, but more time and tooling is needed to do that.
FYI, you can use the bleeder kit to vacuum out the fluid in the reservoir also. That way you can clean it out with some brake cleaner and get all the gunk that settles inside the reservoir. Vacuum out the gunk and brake cleaner then start your bleeding sequence.
you dont want to completely drain the MC if you do you will have to bench bleed the MC just suck most of the fluid out the go to the wheels that will flush all the rest out when the brake fluid becomes clear
The reason your bleeding sequence is reversed is probably because you have an ABS unit located in the rear driver's side of the vehicle. If that's the case, your furthest point would actually be front passenger.
You could just use the vacuum bleeder to suck out the old fluid. Faster and easier. I really like my vacuum bleeder (same one as you). Makes a laborious and dirty job so much cleaner, easier, faster. Best new tool I've gotten in years.
@@scrappy93 Less mess and easier to use than a pressure bleeder. Bleed quickly and easily by yourself including stubborn systems. Use it for liquid vacuuming also (like if you over fill your crankcase).
You shouldn't need to empty the old fluid from the reservoir as when you start bleeding all the old fluid will be sucked through ending up in the bottle container. the new fluid will then be sucked through becoming cleaner as you're bleeding... great video, really informative, fully explained in great detail. many thanks 😉👍
Why would you want to pull all the crap through the system and spend even longer sucking it out? Remove old fluid from the reservoir always. That way you are only introducing fresh fluid.
Detailed video, thanks! I would point out that I purchased this bleeder form Harbor "Fright" and mine did NOT come with the air hose coupler attachment that yours had when you unboxed it. It is the part that screws into the end of the handle that connects to your air hose fitting. Remember to buy one of these or you can't attach it and use nylon tape to seal it on the screw threads. I LOVE the bleeder. I used it on my BMW motorcycle and will do the car brakes when I swap out the rotors/pads.
Correct me if Im wrong but you should squeeze the trigger first before you open the bleeder and close the bleeder first before you let go of the trigger. This way you always have pressure otherwise you're allowing air in the line.
+Gerard Fabian Alvarez He is closing the bleeder before releasing the vacuum. But for the opening, he is bleeding any little bit of air that could get in from the start during the bleeding vacuum process.
No. Crack loose bleeder screw, put your small narrow wrench on screw, attach hose, pull trigger to draw fluid. Once clear flow is observed, tighten screw, remove hose.
The HF bleeder is good brake fluid bleeder. I think mine is 5 years old, no cracked parts or anything. The rubber end that fits to the bleeder screw is still in perfect condition as is the fluid line. Used it again his morning and it gave me a perfect fluid flush. The only thing I dislike is how it consumes lots of your compressor air, so it will keep the motor running if it’s a small 12 gallon compressor.
With today's current pads drilled rotors are obsolete, in fact they are detrimental to the rotor. If he wanted the look dimpled would have been better. I can almost understand the slotted, but still over rated with new tech in brake pads.
Thanks Peter aka "Dial2Fast" for the great videos! I was able to replace all 4 rotors and break pads on on 2006 Honda Odyssey saving hundreds of $ thanks to you. Everything works great, got the breaks from Brakemotive and couldn't be happier. The only issue I had was with the Break bleeding kit from Harbor Freight. It worked fine for the front lines, but it just couldn't get enough pressure (yes tried the grease) for the back lines so we had to bleed the breaks the old fashioned way with a tube , a jar full of brake fluid and my brother pumping the brakes. Couldn't have done it without your videos though so thanks again!
Were you using the required pressure on your compressor? They require a 20+ gallon tank but between 7 to 19 gallon tanks they say is doable. But 1 to 6 gallon tanks aren't recommended. I don't know what you did but the pressure cant be less than 90 and no more than 120.
I bought same bleeder kit at harbor freight, I use it every pad replacement. I hook it up as I'm compressing each caliper so get all that nasty stuff out. I drink reservoir as far down as I can before I start too and then top off. I keep refilling fluid as I go to each caliper. I figure I'm going to be replacing a good portion of it that way each time I do brakes. Why not it's cheap. Anyway this thing is Handy and it's paid for itself over and over. I've used it to do my diff fluid clutch too, even though bot says brake fluid only on bottle.
I have used this tool and discovered that it works just fine at only 40 psi. I've used it on a new brake line itself to clear them of debris, which I have found when I remove the rubber piece! Pieces of a Viva towel that i used to wipe the edge of the MC. Bad idea, use a rag instead. I then attached the line to the wheel cylinder and used a speedy bleeder. Have also used this tool on a disc/drum system at 40 psi with great results, however it may have distorted the in-line 10# residual valve's seal. The lower pressure keeps the wheel cylinder cups from buckling under too much vacuum 'pressure' and leaking air past the edges of the seal.
Great Video, like all the rest. You taught me how to do my first timing belt....now I'm on my 3rd rebuild! This video helped me figure out why it woudn't start.....fuel lines were backward. Thanks for all the help over the years.
Sparta you can use a socket to break loose the bleeder screw first and then use a regular open end wrench if you don't have flare nut wrenches. For hydraulic lines the flare nut wrenches would be necessary.
when bleeding with a compressor hose does it ever stay solid fluid in the bleeder hose to let you know there is no more air coming out of the lines? it appears not
Mine leaked like crazy. I can't tell air bubbles bled from the brakes from those that leak past the tool's hoses. Thank you for your time and this video!
If you open a brake bleeder too much, air will be sucked in around the bleeder threads and into the tools hose and make it look like you still have air in the brake line. Either just crack the bleeder, or maybe some heavy grease to the outer bleeder threads.
This will definitely be my next HF purchase. I originally purchased the mityvac manual vacuum pump from HF. A few weeks ago, I did full brake system flushes on four vehicles. My hands definitely got a good work out from that experience! Although it did work just fine......
what is the work logic that compressor will push air into the bleed bottle, but how it does suction the brake fluid from the fluid line? and does it bleed air in the ABS module?
could have used the pneumatic bleeder to drain master cylinder, the syringe is the mixmizer used for mixing 2 stroke oil with gas, ratios are right on syringe. but obviously has many uses, i've used a turkey baster, good video
Honda Odyssey is also odd in how they check the transmission fluid level. For all my 78 years, it used to be put vehicles in Park after running it through the gears and check with the engine running. With the Odyssey, you warm it up til the fan comes on - put it in Park and SHUT THE ENGINE OFF. Then, you wait 30 seconds but no more than 90 seconds to pull the dipstick and check the fluid level. I'll have to see if the clearance for the bottle on my 2007 Odyssey is different than on your vehicle.
Theres no need to pull the old fluid out before bleeding the system. Just flush the old crap through. Waste of time and usually ends up making somewhat of a mess trying to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir. Flush it on through till the fluid runs clear showing that the NEW fluid has worked its way through the sytem pushing the old fluid out infront of it. :)
@@amineabderrahmane1707 Exactly!!! There's 100% no reason to mess around going through the trouble of removing the old fluid 1st. Start bleeding and as the "old" fluid in the reservoir gets low, not empty, add new fluid. And continue the process until you've got nice clean fluid coming from each brake bleeder.
Could you just have used the syringe with the clear tubing attached to the bleeder valve, instead of the compressed-air & bleeder bottle set-up? You'd attach the syringe-with-tubing to the bleeder valve, open the bleeder valve, then pull back on the syringe to suction out the brake fluid; close the bleeder valve before detaching the clear tubing/syringe. It appears that the pneumatic bleeder is basically doing the same thing by suctioning out the brake fluid with negative pressure created by the compressed air passing through the catch bottle. Also, since you're not using the inverted fill-bottle at the master cylinder reservoir, there's the risk of drawing out too much fluid with the compressed-air suction; thus, "emptying" out the master cylinder reservoir and potentially causing damage to the master cylinder. Just a thought to simplify the procedure. Any thoughts?
I use a thicker synthetic silicone-based paste I use for my calipers, it does let ANY bubbles in and it seemes to work greay to coat the rubber suction nubs as well
what brand did you use, thanks! I had trouble with those annoying bubbles that even teflon tape and some petroleum based brake grease (only on threads) didn't seem to eliminate.
Would it be a problem to put antiseize on the bleeder threads? I want to prevent seizing obviously but also think it would help seal the threads while bleeding to prevent any air from entering the vacuum
You better cover that fender with fender cover that will be safe for the paint job cause it will eat paint very quickly to the metal. Great job keep up the good work....
I got an air compressor MF 1050 tsunami for tires which flow rate is 3500 cubic inch/ minute.To save money I don't want to buy another big compressor Would you please help me to see if this brake bleeder kit working with the Tsunami or not .Thanks
Dad always made us use box end wrench around bleeder valve to unloosen first initially from so locked position, hear how the bolt snapped loudly when you broke it loose! (box end better fit an not round off flat edges of bleeder valve. After cracked open use either end of wrench but I always used box end set first on valve then bleeder hose kept wrench in place on valve) Tim Also could you put that auto fill on a IV type bag so can form around body parts over master cylinder?
I agree, and preferably a 6 point box wrench. But you can try a regular wrench first and just don't apply too much torque to where you can damage anything. I'm not sure if penetrating oil is advisable here. Maybe silicone based if there is one......
I could be wrong but I believe that DOT 4 is used on Honda Vehicles. Also wouldn't you bleed brakes starting at the furthest distance from the master cylinder?
+Brian Poynton DOT4 is not specific to car manufacturer. DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT3. You should use whats recommended in your user manual. As to bleeding from the furthest out first, that should be the case for most cars, but it depends what the service manual recommends. My 08 Odyssey Honda service manual say to bleed the front driver first.
I used to think that as well and if you are removing air from the system then yes. However for doing brake fluid flush/replacement I started using this procedure and if you think about it it makes perfect sense. I remove most of the old fluid from master cylinder with a turkey baster then refill with new fluid. Then I bleed the wheel closest to the master cylinder first until fluid comes out clean. Then bleed the farthest from the master cylinder which is usually the rear passenger wheel. Then the drivers rear wheel and last the passenger front wheel. The reason for bleeding their closets wheel first is that all the old fluid is flushed out of the master cylinder and when you bleed the furthest wheel it's clean fluid going thru the system instead of old. I learned this from Eric the car guy channel.
it all depends on where the ABS and fluid container are. Some cars have the ABS in the rear which would mean you need to start with the front wheels and work back
I do not think this matters all that much .. SAAB says to start with the bleeder closest to the reservoir .. as does Mity Mite .. why , I do not know .
Thanks. Video was very clear as was your description. Only thing I miss was they type of lube you put on bleeder screw to seal out air. What's name of grease?
You will see sputtering of fluid being sucked out since the nipple is not a perfect seal, but as long as the fluid is being sucked out, then it's working. Just make sure you close the bleeder before you release the handle to ensure not air goes back in.
Great vid dial to fast. Question is that brake bleeder motorized & pneumatic? It sounds like it. Also disappointed that the brake fluid bottle filler didn’t work/fit properly but nothing ya can do about that. Thanks,
+akashmer The new rotor/pad setup fixed this terrible grinding noise which I had with the factory brakes. I have used these rotors/ pads on 3 cars now and they all perform great. No warping or brake fade.
You could still use the fill bottle on the master cylinder. As long as, the nozzle is just below the fluid max line, it will not overfill the master cylinder. Just don't use the adapter.
Is this method can create air on the circuit ? Even if my connection on the nipple on the rear brake is not well sealed ? Because i see a lot of air on my flexible, but not a lot of brake fluid coming out...
You don't need to astroglide the bleeders, and the line from the bleeder should be hanging from above to see the new fluid, and prevent bubbles in the line.
I was thinking that he should've put that grease on the threads of the bleeder nipple. Putting it where he put it would perhaps help to seal but also could help it to slip off. That's not where the air usually gets in anyways, when vacuum bleeding.
Amazon looks like they have the same model as HF. I order one for around $16. Most of the others looked identical to the $16 one but had both US and european air fittings - so you can save a few bucks getting the correct one.
I heard most of the braking fluid is in the reservoir, so they just drain and refill the brake fluid in the reservoir only and not bleed the brakes. is that ok to do for brake fluid change?
All of the fluid is dirty and the bleeders must be exercised now and again .. Using a simple, no device, system, gravity bleeding is very low cost and effective... and safe for the MC ..
Somebody asked a similar question about a pancake compressor, but I saw no answer. What kind of air consumption does this thing have? My little CH is 4 cfm @ 90 according to the factory BS and maxes out at 125 with, obviously, less cfm. I don't want to hook it up and watch the pressure drop to zip.
6PTsocket The manual only list that it needs 90PSI, but not CFM. So my guess is your pancake will operate the bleeder but it will probably cycle on often as the air is depleted. In my experience, it does consume a lot of air.
+dial2fast I contacted Harbor Freight and the first person to reply told me it consumed no air. When I wrote back and suggested that they should not employ idiots and that this was a venturi pump that creates a vacuum by blowing LOTS of air over the top of a tube, his boss tried to cover for him and came up with a number: 2 CFM. After reading about the problems of getting a good seal at the bleed screw and having an air hose under foot and concerns about air consumption, I decided to go with a pressure bleeder. It is basically just like garden chemical sprayer with a gauge and a cap for the master cylinder, instead of a spray nozzle. You pour in a couple of quarts of brake fluid, replace the master cylinder cap with the one connected to the hose and pump it up to around 15 lbs. When you open a bleed valve, out comes air and dirty brake fluid until it runs clean, through an attached hose and into a catch bottle. Since there is constant pressure, it doesn't back up into the brakes.
EXACTLY! I am building my own pressure bleeder with a garden variety sprayer, some tubing, a psi guage and a few fittings tomorrow for under $25......it will be just like the ones sold.....OH, and also a spare master cylinder cap to modify to use on the pressure bleeder. I have jacked around with a vacuum bleeder for the last time.......they are problematic and messy. A pressure bleeder is simple, and not messy......also gets air out much easier than any vacuum bleeder unless you go up to the professional kind.
The suction gadget will suck the mucky fluid out of the M/C reservoir very nicely :o) And do a good job at getting the muck out of the bottom of the reservoir.
![Kodak Black - Versatile 4 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VcP_1Ua__vY/mqdefault.jpg)
I bought this same kit after watching this video. Best $30 I've ever spent. Works great. Amazing how much better the brakes feel after flushing them. From wheels up to wheels back down, I was done in 1 hr.
+Tobias G. Thanks for sharing your experience!!
dial2fast No problem
Tobias G.
how much air does this thing use? Would a 3 gallon tank hold up alright, or would you need a larger compressor?
Sorry I have a 6 gallon tank- do you think that would be okay?
Nice video. One hint though. If you point the hose upward from the bleeder it's easier to see when the air bubbles are gone and just clear fluid is running out. You can also hold one finger on the back of the rubber fitting to ensure a good seal. That's one nice thing about this kit with the one handed trigger operation. Others have a lever and it take two hands to turn it on and off.
I continuously have air coming out, what am I doing wrong? PSI set at 100.
It's people like you that make RUclips annoying. Wait, I mean, I come here for great tips like yours and it forces me to see all of the others. It would be better if all of the comments were useless so I could just ignore it. 😅 Thanks
After fifty years of bleeding brakes by many methods, I wish I would have had this tool years ago. Just tried it on a difficult
old Toyota Landcruiser job that included a new master cylinder. Really dirty lines and cylinders. Lots of air to deal with. The HF air vacuum bleeder made an otherwise pain in the ass procedure really fast and pleasant. Now I can do my own brake flushes on my other cars--and save the $120 charged by shops.
just ordered a kit like this for myself, I'm tired of the old methods and this seems to work pretty dang good. Fingers crossed it'll solve my spongy brakes.
tomorrow bleeding my 74 VW beetle, I just was not sure how to use this machine, thank you! It is so much faster than by having another person pump the brake pedal.
No reason to use a syringe to remove old brake fluid from master cylinder just use the vacuum pump hose to remove it. Works better and much faster.
He literally says you can do that in the video 🙄
@@joshgutierrez7380 Not really. Plus, that whole system is worthless junk. The working system would be the air powered units used by mechanics and me being the Branick Industries Brake Bleeder . It forces fluid into the brake master cylinder flushing air from the system, and making bleeding brakes on all 4 wheels easy.
@@ronpowers9345 that’s irrelevant from MY point. I said that he stated you can do it in the video. I didn’t ask for your unwanted opinion thank you.
@@joshgutierrez7380 I was commenting on what was said in the video which I have a right to do. Get a life.
@@ronpowers9345 I never said you didn’t have a right hon. And ew. Find a better comeback than that cuz that was a little cringy 😬
May be worth a try; Certainly better than using a Myti-Vac hand vacuum pump. It should be adequate for changing fluid, but if one is bleeding the brake system, e.g. after a master cylinder change, it's difficult with vacuum bleeding because the threads on the loosened bleeder valve always leak a little and introduce bubbles into the stream; it's hard to tell where those are coming from, the system or just those leaky threads. Pressure bleeding from the master cylinder is the best method, but more time and tooling is needed to do that.
FYI, you can use the bleeder kit to vacuum out the fluid in the reservoir also. That way you can clean it out with some brake cleaner and get all the gunk that settles inside the reservoir. Vacuum out the gunk and brake cleaner then start your bleeding sequence.
Using brake cleaner in a plastic reservoir?? I don’t think that’s a good idea. Wouldn’t it corrode the plastic?
you dont want to completely drain the MC if you do you will have to bench bleed the MC just suck most of the fluid out the go to the wheels that will flush all the rest out when the brake fluid becomes clear
Finally someone is bleeding their brakes instead of just talking about. Watched for previous videos.
I bought one of these break bleeders and it works great. Makes a tedious job a breeze and no help needed. Especially helpful for bleeding ABS pump.
Brake*
The reason your bleeding sequence is reversed is probably because you have an ABS unit located in the rear driver's side of the vehicle. If that's the case, your furthest point would actually be front passenger.
You could just use the vacuum bleeder to suck out the old fluid. Faster and easier. I really like my vacuum bleeder (same one as you). Makes a laborious and dirty job so much cleaner, easier, faster. Best new tool I've gotten in years.
Seems about the same effort.
@@scrappy93 Less mess and easier to use than a pressure bleeder. Bleed quickly and easily by yourself including stubborn systems. Use it for liquid vacuuming also (like if you over fill your crankcase).
You shouldn't need to empty the old fluid from the reservoir as when you start bleeding all the old fluid will be sucked through ending up in the bottle container. the new fluid will then be sucked through becoming cleaner as you're bleeding...
great video, really informative, fully explained in great detail. many thanks 😉👍
Why would you want to pull all the crap through the system and spend even longer sucking it out? Remove old fluid from the reservoir always. That way you are only introducing fresh fluid.
Detailed video, thanks! I would point out that I purchased this bleeder form Harbor "Fright" and mine did NOT come with the air hose coupler attachment that yours had when you unboxed it. It is the part that screws into the end of the handle that connects to your air hose fitting. Remember to buy one of these or you can't attach it and use nylon tape to seal it on the screw threads. I LOVE the bleeder. I used it on my BMW motorcycle and will do the car brakes when I swap out the rotors/pads.
Correct me if Im wrong but you should squeeze the trigger first before you open the bleeder and close the bleeder first before you let go of the trigger. This way you always have pressure otherwise you're allowing air in the line.
+Gerard Fabian Alvarez He is closing the bleeder before releasing the vacuum. But for the opening, he is bleeding any little bit of air that could get in from the start during the bleeding vacuum process.
+Gerard Fabian Alvarez good tip. nice to be extra carful.
Gerard Fabian Alvarez true
WHAT IF HE GOT THAT POOR CAR PREGNANT??
No. Crack loose bleeder screw, put your small narrow wrench on screw, attach hose, pull trigger to draw fluid. Once clear flow is observed, tighten screw, remove hose.
The HF bleeder is good brake fluid bleeder. I think mine is 5 years old, no cracked parts or anything. The rubber end that fits to the bleeder screw is still in perfect condition as is the fluid line. Used it again his morning and it gave me a perfect fluid flush. The only thing I dislike is how it consumes lots of your compressor air, so it will keep the motor running if it’s a small 12 gallon compressor.
Have to like a guy who puts drilled rotors on the minivan, nice!
is that racing/soccer dad feeling. I have it in me too. LOL
Lmao
yeah, cause being stupid and stupid makes it cool, F'n morons,
Haha this video got a thumbs up purely b/c of them rotors!
With today's current pads drilled rotors are obsolete, in fact they are detrimental to the rotor. If he wanted the look dimpled would have been better. I can almost understand the slotted, but still over rated with new tech in brake pads.
Does this work on ABS systems as well? Or is there any other special procedure to actuate the ABS and evacuate any fluid in the ABS?
Thanks Peter aka "Dial2Fast" for the great videos! I was able to replace all 4 rotors and break pads on on 2006 Honda Odyssey saving hundreds of $ thanks to you. Everything works great, got the breaks from Brakemotive and couldn't be happier. The only issue I had was with the Break bleeding kit from Harbor Freight. It worked fine for the front lines, but it just couldn't get enough pressure (yes tried the grease) for the back lines so we had to bleed the breaks the old fashioned way with a tube , a jar full of brake fluid and my brother pumping the brakes. Couldn't have done it without your videos though so thanks again!
Were you using the required pressure on your compressor? They require a 20+ gallon tank but between 7 to 19 gallon tanks they say is doable. But 1 to 6 gallon tanks aren't recommended. I don't know what you did but the pressure cant be less than 90 and no more than 120.
I bought same bleeder kit at harbor freight, I use it every pad replacement. I hook it up as I'm compressing each caliper so get all that nasty stuff out. I drink reservoir as far down as I can before I start too and then top off. I keep refilling fluid as I go to each caliper. I figure I'm going to be replacing a good portion of it that way each time I do brakes. Why not it's cheap. Anyway this thing is Handy and it's paid for itself over and over. I've used it to do my diff fluid clutch too, even though bot says brake fluid only on bottle.
I'm getting ready to bleed the brakes on my 73 Dodge Power Wagon and was thinking of purchasing this bleeder kit. Very informative video. Thanks much
I have used this tool and discovered that it works just fine at only 40 psi. I've used it on a new brake line itself to clear them of debris, which I have found when I remove the rubber piece! Pieces of a Viva towel that i used to wipe the edge of the MC. Bad idea, use a rag instead. I then attached the line to the wheel cylinder and used a speedy bleeder.
Have also used this tool on a disc/drum system at 40 psi with great results, however it may have distorted the in-line 10# residual valve's seal. The lower pressure keeps the wheel cylinder cups from buckling under too much vacuum 'pressure' and leaking air past the edges of the seal.
Thanks for posting the write ups on HF say good things about this. I did not know you needed a compressor however I like that makes it even easier.
Great Video, like all the rest. You taught me how to do my first timing belt....now I'm on my 3rd rebuild! This video helped me figure out why it woudn't start.....fuel lines were backward. Thanks for all the help over the years.
+Doug Hoffman How it can help you in fuel line?
@@coxman8781 Never mind he got 9 thumbs up lol lol
Excellent tutorial. I have one of these and will change my brake fluid tomorrow!
You can use the bleeder to vacuum the old fluid from the reservoir instead of a syringe.
Hi, how much pressure you got in compresor
I wonder if I could use this through my dipstick to drain my transmission fluid
Thanks. just picked this up today. Don't forget to use a line-wrench for the brake bleeder screw, not a box wrench.
Sparta
you can use a socket to break loose the bleeder screw first and then use a regular open end wrench if you don't have flare nut wrenches. For hydraulic lines the flare nut wrenches would be necessary.
@@dtrrtd774 Just use the box end of a normal wrench. Put wrench on bleed screw, then attach the hose. Been doing it that way for 20 years.
🤦♂️
Can I used this so I can avoid bench bleeding my brakes?
when bleeding with a compressor hose does it ever stay solid fluid in the bleeder hose to let you know there is no more air coming out of the lines? it appears not
Si you keep the reservoir open or close?
Thank you for the video. I followed your processes so that air will no back fill into the line.
Nice video. Do you need to close the master cylinder cap after each fill before starting the bleed with the kit?
You don't need to put the cap on.
Excellent demonstration, all critical points covered.
Do you think I could use a tire inflator compressor to do this? I’m currently in an apartment complex with no where to plug the compressor in.
Mine leaked like crazy. I can't tell air bubbles bled from the brakes from those that leak past the tool's hoses. Thank you for your time and this video!
If you open a brake bleeder too much, air will be sucked in around the bleeder threads and into the tools hose and make it look like you still have air in the brake line. Either just crack the bleeder, or maybe some heavy grease to the outer bleeder threads.
@@twinturbo1k They often leak with vacuum method even if you use grease and even if you just open a crack.
Do you tighten the bleeder valve while you're still vacuuming?
Open -> Vaccum -> Tighten -> Release trigger?
Vacuum -- Open - Tighten - Release vacuum
What's the recommend psi for it? I understand it's vital.
This will definitely be my next HF purchase. I originally purchased the mityvac manual vacuum pump from HF. A few weeks ago, I did full brake system flushes on four vehicles. My hands definitely got a good work out from that experience! Although it did work just fine......
What pressure do you set the air compressor to.
what is the work logic that compressor will push air into the bleed bottle, but how it does suction the brake fluid from the fluid line? and does it bleed air in the ABS module?
could have used the pneumatic bleeder to drain master cylinder, the syringe is the mixmizer used for mixing 2 stroke oil with gas, ratios are right on syringe. but obviously has many uses, i've used a turkey baster, good video
***** Thank you!!
Better off obtaining a fluid extractor. Turkey baster is somewhat messy and you do not want to get brake fluid on painted surfaces.
Looks good. The fluid in the piston stays? I’d like to get rid of all the old fluid.
Thanks for sharing! Question; Do you need to pump the brakes or hold the brake pedal down at all during the process? Thanks again. 👍
This is a one person job, so no need to pump/hold the brake while vacuuming the fluid.
@@dial2fast Thanks!! 👍
Honda Odyssey is also odd in how they check the transmission fluid level. For all my 78 years, it used to be put vehicles in Park after running it through the gears and check with the engine running. With the Odyssey, you warm it up til the fan comes on - put it in Park and SHUT THE ENGINE OFF. Then, you wait 30 seconds but no more than 90 seconds to pull the dipstick and check the fluid level. I'll have to see if the clearance for the bottle on my 2007 Odyssey is different than on your vehicle.
Why not use your tool to remove old fluid in your brake reservoir?
Gotta love vented slotted rotors on a mini van. Thanks for the vid.
I just got mine from aliexpress. No idea why I thought I can use it manually without a compressor.
So can it be used without a compressor ?
Theres no need to pull the old fluid out before bleeding the system. Just flush the old crap through. Waste of time and usually ends up making somewhat of a mess trying to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir. Flush it on through till the fluid runs clear showing that the NEW fluid has worked its way through the sytem pushing the old fluid out infront of it. :)
So he starts flushing the old fluid from the nipple of each wheel, and he adds the new fluid as the levels drop ?
@@amineabderrahmane1707 Exactly!!! There's 100% no reason to mess around going through the trouble of removing the old fluid 1st. Start bleeding and as the "old" fluid in the reservoir gets low, not empty, add new fluid. And continue the process until you've got nice clean fluid coming from each brake bleeder.
Did you use air compressor?
Could you just have used the syringe with the clear tubing attached to the bleeder valve, instead of the compressed-air & bleeder bottle set-up? You'd attach the syringe-with-tubing to the bleeder valve, open the bleeder valve, then pull back on the syringe to suction out the brake fluid; close the bleeder valve before detaching the clear tubing/syringe. It appears that the pneumatic bleeder is basically doing the same thing by suctioning out the brake fluid with negative pressure created by the compressed air passing through the catch bottle. Also, since you're not using the inverted fill-bottle at the master cylinder reservoir, there's the risk of drawing out too much fluid with the compressed-air suction; thus, "emptying" out the master cylinder reservoir and potentially causing damage to the master cylinder. Just a thought to simplify the procedure. Any thoughts?
A syringe will do the same thing but imagine how long that would take if you're going to do a complete flush
I use a thicker synthetic silicone-based paste I use for my calipers, it does let ANY bubbles in and it seemes to work greay to coat the rubber suction nubs as well
what brand did you use, thanks! I had trouble with those annoying bubbles that even teflon tape and some petroleum based brake grease (only on threads) didn't seem to eliminate.
Would it be a problem to put antiseize on the bleeder threads? I want to prevent seizing obviously but also think it would help seal the threads while bleeding to prevent any air from entering the vacuum
Yes you can put anti-seize on the bleeder thread.
You don't bleed brakes when you do pads or rotors .the new fluid will turn dark also it's from the aging rubber brake hoses ,it doesn't hurt anything
hi, it's been 8 yrs for this video but thanks a lot 😊👍
I have had this kit for a year, still in the box. After watching this I think next oil change I will try it out
Haha! Same here but will do this tomorrow.
You better cover that fender with fender cover that will be safe for the paint job cause it will eat paint very quickly to the metal. Great job keep up the good work....
Can I bleed the ABS module after replacing my master cyl with this on a 98 Monte Carlo?
Great advice using grease to get a good seal.
I got an air compressor MF 1050 tsunami for tires which flow rate is 3500 cubic inch/ minute.To save money I don't want to buy another big compressor Would you please help me to see if this brake bleeder kit working with the Tsunami or not .Thanks
I dont understand how a compresor extract brake fluid? No entiendo como un compresor que suministra presion ayuda a extraer el liquido de frenos?
I AM GOING TO BUY ONE NEXT WEEK FOR MY OLD VAN ...THANKS 4 THE VIDEO
Wow
Dad always made us use box end wrench around bleeder valve to unloosen first initially from so locked position, hear how the bolt snapped loudly when you broke it loose! (box end better fit an not round off flat edges of bleeder valve. After cracked open use either end of wrench but I always used box end set first on valve then bleeder hose kept wrench in place on valve) Tim Also could you put that auto fill on a IV type bag so can form around body parts over master cylinder?
Tim Barnett he might live in an area where rust isn’t an issue which is generally why in Utah at least we do the same as you and use the box end
I agree, and preferably a 6 point box wrench. But you can try a regular wrench first and just don't apply too much torque to where you can damage anything. I'm not sure if penetrating oil is advisable here. Maybe silicone based if there is one......
I could be wrong but I believe that DOT 4 is used on Honda Vehicles. Also wouldn't you bleed brakes starting at the furthest distance from the master cylinder?
+Brian Poynton DOT4 is not specific to car manufacturer. DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT3. You should use whats recommended in your user manual. As to bleeding from the furthest out first, that should be the case for most cars, but it depends what the service manual recommends. My 08 Odyssey Honda service manual say to bleed the front driver first.
I used to think that as well and if you are removing air from the system then yes. However for doing brake fluid flush/replacement I started using this procedure and if you think about it it makes perfect sense. I remove most of the old fluid from master cylinder with a turkey baster then refill with new fluid. Then I bleed the wheel closest to the master cylinder first until fluid comes out clean. Then bleed the farthest from the master cylinder which is usually the rear passenger wheel. Then the drivers rear wheel and last the passenger front wheel. The reason for bleeding their closets wheel first is that all the old fluid is flushed out of the master cylinder and when you bleed the furthest wheel it's clean fluid going thru the system instead of old. I learned this from Eric the car guy channel.
it all depends on where the ABS and fluid container are. Some cars have the ABS in the rear which would mean you need to start with the front wheels and work back
I do not think this matters all that much .. SAAB says to start with the bleeder closest to the reservoir .. as does Mity Mite .. why , I do not know .
It depends where your abs module is
What should the psi on the compressor be set at ?
Please see this follow up video ruclips.net/video/71Ns8RyJYLE/видео.html
He was using Sil-Glyde compound made by NAPA to seal around the bleeder valve
Whats the knob out front do?
I like to use a Flair wrench on automotive brake nuts...
How much constant pressure does the bleeder require when extracting the fluid; 50psi, 80psi, 100+ psi???
Amazon page above for this product says "90-120 psi."
I use a pancake compressor 120 psi and it works great.
117 psi my manual states
Thanks. Video was very clear as was your description. Only thing I miss was they type of lube you put on bleeder screw to seal out air. What's name of grease?
You can use any grease, but I used Sil Glyde amzn.to/2L9smFr
I have bleeder kit from harbor freight. Are we suppose to see little bubbles and have clear stream going to bottle?
You will see sputtering of fluid being sucked out since the nipple is not a perfect seal, but as long as the fluid is being sucked out, then it's working. Just make sure you close the bleeder before you release the handle to ensure not air goes back in.
Great vid dial to fast. Question is that brake bleeder motorized & pneumatic? It sounds like it.
Also disappointed that the brake fluid bottle filler didn’t work/fit properly but nothing ya can do about that.
Thanks,
Santos Marquez :30 he says "you hook it up to your compressor". Pay attention dumbass.
What is you just hooked it up to the bleeding valve clean it out through the lines
Definitely grabbing this!! Thanks for the great tutorial
does the top have to be on the master cylinder/reservoir when you are bleeding the brakes
You can leave it open and top off the fluid periodically.
So, how does the guild get sucked out? 🤯 I need to do this 👍🏽
I love this kit!
Can you use this on a hydraulic clutch master cylinder?
Yes. It works great for that. I bought it for just that purpose
So did the rotors help slow down the Van better?
+akashmer The new rotor/pad setup fixed this terrible grinding noise which I had with the factory brakes. I have used these rotors/ pads on 3 cars now and they all perform great. No warping or brake fade.
Does the clutch need to be fully depressed while doing this?FYI i am using it as i installed a new clutch master cylinder.
No!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You could still use the fill bottle on the master cylinder. As long as, the nozzle is just below the fluid max line, it will not overfill the master cylinder. Just don't use the adapter.
Is this method can create air on the circuit ?
Even if my connection on the nipple on the rear brake is not well sealed ?
Because i see a lot of air on my flexible, but not a lot of brake fluid coming out...
Take some grease and cover the threads of the bleeder itself. That will stop air from getting through the threads and right into your line.
Joel Back ok Thanks I'll try it
what kind of seal you .used? I can't hear clearly
You don't need to astroglide the bleeders, and the line from the bleeder should be hanging from above to see the new fluid, and prevent bubbles in the line.
scott17818 exactly what I was thinking
I was thinking that he should've put that grease on the threads of the bleeder nipple. Putting it where he put it would perhaps help to seal but also could help it to slip off. That's not where the air usually gets in anyways, when vacuum bleeding.
How much bar you need to set on the compressor ?
Will a portable 6 gallon air compressor enough to use this ?
No
Great video, I've been looking for a tool like this.
What size compressor do you need? Will small 150 psi work?
Yes but probably in bursts
what compressor did you use
Dewalt 15 gallon 5 scfm compressor
@@dial2fast nice I have a similar one. what type of line did you have to buy for it to work on the brake bleeder
What is the name of the grease you are using on the nipple rubber to help keep it air tight?
SilGlyde amzn.to/2pbExcQ
Big nice brakes and calipers on that car-thanks for the video
Did I miss it, or did you forget to use the auto filling bottle on the mc? It works great if you use it. Sorry if I missed it.
You missed it. It works great if you pay attention. Or at least rewind before commenting
awesome video. thank you so much1
you think a 3 gallon pancake air compressor set at 90 psi, can do the job?
Yes, all you need is 90 or more PSI.
Amazon looks like they have the same model as HF. I order one for around $16. Most of the others looked identical to the $16 one but had both US and european air fittings - so you can save a few bucks getting the correct one.
Nice. Going to go get one
I heard most of the braking fluid is in the reservoir, so they just
drain and refill the brake fluid in the reservoir only and not bleed the
brakes. is that ok to do for brake fluid change?
+Okaythen001 Some of the brake fluid is in the reservoir, not most. If you want to do a complete flush, you have to get all the old fluid out.
All of the fluid is dirty and the bleeders must be exercised now and again .. Using a simple, no device, system, gravity bleeding is very low cost and effective... and safe for the MC ..
what is the name of the product you mention at 5:32 in the video for a better seal? thanks for any response
Silglyde. Many different brands of it, Napa makes one. Usually used for brake caliper pins.
Somebody asked a similar question about a pancake compressor, but I saw no answer. What kind of air consumption does this thing have? My little CH is 4 cfm @ 90 according to the factory BS and maxes out at 125 with, obviously, less cfm. I don't want to hook it up and watch the pressure drop to zip.
6PTsocket The manual only list that it needs 90PSI, but not CFM. So my guess is your pancake will operate the bleeder but it will probably cycle on often as the air is depleted. In my experience, it does consume a lot of air.
+dial2fast I contacted Harbor Freight and the first person to reply told me it consumed no air. When I wrote back and suggested that they should not employ idiots and that this was a venturi pump that creates a vacuum by blowing LOTS of air over the top of a tube, his boss tried to cover for him and came up with a number: 2 CFM. After reading about the problems of getting a good seal at the bleed screw and having an air hose under foot and concerns about air consumption, I decided to go with a pressure bleeder. It is basically just like garden chemical sprayer with a gauge and a cap for the master cylinder, instead of a spray nozzle. You pour in a couple of quarts of brake fluid, replace the master cylinder cap with the one connected to the hose and pump it up to around 15 lbs. When you open a bleed valve, out comes air and dirty brake fluid until it runs clean, through an attached hose and into a catch bottle. Since there is constant pressure, it doesn't back up into the brakes.
EXACTLY!
I am building my own pressure bleeder with a garden variety sprayer, some tubing, a psi guage and a few fittings tomorrow for under $25......it will be just like the ones sold.....OH, and also a spare master cylinder
cap to modify to use on the pressure bleeder.
I have jacked around with a vacuum bleeder for the last time.......they are problematic and messy.
A pressure bleeder is simple, and not messy......also gets air out much easier than any vacuum bleeder unless you go up to the professional kind.
The suction gadget will suck the mucky fluid
out of the M/C reservoir very nicely :o)
And do a good job at getting the muck
out of the bottom of the reservoir.