Brake bleeding with a Mityvac vacuum pump step by step
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- Other brake bleeding with a bleeder pump: • Brake bleeding with a ...
How to use Mityvac vacuum pump MV8500 to bleed brake of a Renault Clio. Step by step procedure.
ontluchten van de remmen
Bleed/change/replace hydraulic fluid brake by yourself auto car vehicle maintenance tools parts accessories engine mechanics do-it-yourself diy tutorial tuto
This video does not constitute or replace a real specialized technical manual, and was only made for convenience and educational purposes. "TutoBuild Eng" makes no warranties of any kind and accepts no liability. "TutoBuild Eng" cannot be held responsible for any damage caused to devices or persons using information contained in this video. The use of the information contained in this video is at your own risk. 
Авто/Мото
Where is your 5 to 10 minute intro where you talk about your other videos, your channel, yourself, and asking people to subscribe before slowly demonstrating something that only vaguely resembles what the title describes? Seriously, this is a good informative straight to the point video. Thanks!
😂😂👍🏾
No need to remove bleeders and seal w/ teflon. yes, a little air will enter the loose bleeder and appear in the extracted fluid stream. However no air enters the fluid in the system, so air bubbles are harmless. This will save a lot of needless work.
SUBSCRIBED!! Everything about your video is kick-ass. No jibber-jabber, no silly techno beats and no unnecessary face time. GR8 work mate!!
.."techno beats"....
nice one...
too many "DJs" in tubeland these days...
Before wrapping a tape around the bleeding screw, it's a good idea to submerge the tape in the brake fluid to test n make sure that nothing in the tape dissolve in the brake fluid.
Nice video. Surprised nobody mentioned that you must keep the reservior topped off via bleeding so you dont suck air into the system and have to start over
He's not bleeding he's replacing
+Daniel Warren Even if sommebody's just replacing, they will still want to make sure that the reservoir stays topped off.
WONDERFUL! Way to know how to Make a video! Nice and brisk, No stupid run-on needless distracting babble, big bold printing in the right picture frame, with only needed information, Thank You so much!!! Keep 'em coming TutoBuild Eng !
👍
Even if you're not strictly underneath the car, jack stands are still an excellent investment.
There is always one like you with that comment 🤦🏽♂️
I have done a lot of brakes, on a LOT of vehicles. I can totally vouch for this method! It's saved me hours. The trick is to ONLY crack the bleeder when you have a vacuum. This way any air that sneaks past the bleed fitting gets sucked out before it enters your brake system! Works like a charm on hydraulic clutch systems too. I don't bother with teflon tape its a good idea though. I have a lazier way, I coat the threads with #2 Non Hardening Permatex in the squeeze tube. Makes a nice sticky seal on the threads and they don't corrode stuck. I do it to any new caliper or wheel cylinder before I install it.
Don’t use tape, the factory didn’t for a reason, fix the leak instead and don’t open the screw too much. Don’t use those black connectors cause they leak. Put the hose right on the bleed screw.
Wrong,friend!!! IF you open the screw just 1/2 of a turn, AIR GETS THROUGH. You DO NEED the teflon tape; i always leave it on, the threads NEVER rust again.
I keep a bottle of used brake fluid about half full and use it to bleed brakes by myself. I put a piece of vacuum line on the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in the used brake fluid. Top off the reservoir, loosen the bleeder and give the brakes a couple pumps. Tighten the bleeder, top off the reservoir and do it again. It flushes the old out and replaces it with new. As long as you keep the tube submerged in brake fluid and the reservoir from emptying, all air will be pushed out and you will have fresh brake fluid. Not a bad idea, anyway as glycol-ether based brake fluids are hygroscopic.
this guy gave you information on how to bleed your brakes. it is very helpful to people that never did it before. why all the BS about every one theory on how to do it ?
@4:56 you are putting your teflon tape in the wrong way... it should be put in the same way the threads are, so avoid the tape to unwrap from the threads when start screwing...
Great Video!!! No long and silly intros. Right to the point. Very methodically done. I love it!!! Please do more.
Nice job on this no-b.s. step-by-step video. I didn't know they made mityvacs that could reverse. I have the cheaper plastic one that otherwise looks a lot like yours.
Excellent video. Very thorough explanation. I prefer reading than trying to understand someone's accent or dialect. Thanks!
The kit says to start with the first closest to master cylinder then farthest. Everything I've ever heard is the exact opposite of this.
It says start with the sequence your car manufacturers recommended. Like make and model always recommends a certain sequence. If you don’t know or can’t find do it that way
you ahould follow manufacturer recommendation, but his rule of thumb is wrong. you should start with brake furthest from master cylinder. always fill reservoir between, that way you do not accidentally pull air into system.
yea I've always done the fatherest first, then I heard of that and I tried it and I got a shit ton of air. lol.
Wrong. My car specifies the front driver side first. It depends on the car.
Thanks for making and posting the video. I hate reading manuals. LOL I just remembered I have one of those pumps I bought to test some vacuum diaphragms last year. Just replaced my rear calipers on my truck and realized I could bleed the brakes with it and change out all the old BF too at the same time. My old calipers had all sorts of rusty looking crap in them so changing the brake fluid and bleeding out the air at the same time like this looks like a good idea.
I'd put rebuilt calipers on it. Rusty probably means that they are eroded and won't work right.
great video. detail and to the point without any fluff. Well done!
Man, that is perfect; i mean, the WHOLE video is great,you cover EVERY aspect of it............
if no Vac pump, you can hook up a hose to the intake manifold vacuum, and idle the engine(most diesel won't work because most do not have a butterfly, just some do have one...);
BUT, you still need a SEALED small bottel JUST LIKE IN THE VIDEO so that the brake fuid does not go into the engine, or it will ruin your Catalyst and the O2 sensor.
Nice sweater! Thanks for the video.
good vid man, i like how you use the teflon tape around the bleed nipple thread :)
Excellent job. Thank you.
I bought a Mity Vac in the mid 80"s, BUT, it wasn't for a car. I was director, back then, of a maternity dept at a large teaching hospital. I had a fair amount of experience in the delivery room, so when the sales rep came to show me a new plastic forceps, part disposable and the tool reusable. Cost was reasonable, around $100 for the vac, and I believe the individual suction forceps were aprox $10 each in case lots. After a little push back from a few OB's , it was accepted and became more widely used since it caused less damage to the newborns skull. Moving ahead 10 years or so, I was in the auto parts store and saw the Mity Vac and its new use for car brakes. I guess the company recognized the limited sales for a disposable forceps, and cut the price to 25% of original, and made it non sterile and for a car.
I love this thing…used it today for a brake job in a Sienna.
That was awesome. Reading no talking thanks dudes
very good video, easy to understand
Thank you sir!
it is the best brake bleeding film on youtube.
Nice clear video , thanks !
Nice tutorial.
But take care of yourself and use gloves as brake fluid is highly poisonous!
burns your eyes too.
very good video. keep making more. what camera are you using shoots very good .
This is how to make instructional edited videos -
Nicely Done
The part where your taking out the bleeder screw and adding Teflon taps, does the fluid come out one you remove the bleeder nipple / screw ?
Excellent, tanks!
Which do you like better, the Motive or this Mityvac hand-pump?
Which is easier?
Great video ! :-)
tape is better than grease to stop those air bubbles but I think texas pipeliner is right, the bubbles only go out as long as vacuum is applied still Id rather see no bubbles at all so you only see air that was in the system.
Yes this all works very well for a system with a little air in it or if you just want to flush out the old fluid but how about a system that is absolutely dry ? I can't seem to get any fluid to come through . I pump up the gun release the bleeder and air comes out but no fluid at all . Again and again just air ! I think I need to reverse bleed or something .
Thank you
Teflon tape on the threads is not a safety concern. Bleeder screws seal with a flare seat. Usually they add a flare seat that's lead, or some other soft metal, to conform to the flare of the screw.
That's only on MR-2's.
I've always been told you start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work your way back to it.
Farthest from brake cylinder yes.
I have the same kit it says closest in the instructions
Depends on your vehicle
what about bleeding the clutch for fluid going to that?
it looks like someone took a whiz on your tire
1. Work from furthest wheel first (from master cylinder) this will usually be a rear wheel on the opposite side of the steering wheel
2. Make sure to remove reservoir cap to allow trapped air to escape and take out as much old fluid as possible, refill reservoir before bleeding so that fluid level doesn't drop below seal which would allow air to enter the system
3. Keep an eye on fluid level in the reservoir as you are bleeding the brakes and top up as you go to ensure it doesn't drop below the seal and allow air to enter the system.
4. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water and moisture) so try to work fast and keep the lid on the brake fluid bottle between topping up.
5. Brake fluid is corrosive so make sure to wear gloves and clean any spills immediately, it can eat through metal and any unprotected surfaces will strip paint if it's not cleaned off quickly.
6. Demonstration in the video is not far off but the Teflon tape is not necessary in my opinion, be careful not to damage the threads on the bleed valves, don't over tighten, a quarter turn with the spanner after hand tightened is more than enough.
7. Also if you aren't used to taking off and putting wheels back on use a torque wrench and the correct pattern for lug nuts to ensure they are centred and secure.
8. Jacks are only to lift vehicles and aren't suitable for supporting the load of the vehicle for extended periods of time, make sure to use a jack stand.
8. Don't forget to pump the brakes at the end and check the brake fluid level.
9. Brakes should feel stiff.
10. Do not press brake pedal all the way to the bottom while bleed valve is open as this can cause the seals in the breaking system to flip inside out.
11. If you get any brake fluid on the discs clean it of with brake cleaner
12. Test brakes after a fluid change, drive slow to begin with, just to check they are working.
That's not true, some are the opposite, mainly hondas. In fact in many cases it doesn't really matter what wheel you start on.
@@Zeltroix
That's why I said usually. What do you mean by "in many cases it doesn't matter", this is a general overview to help as many people as possible, I'm not going by each vehicle. It's always good to follow good practices and yes it does generally matter which wheel you start off with, if you don't know that as a basic I have a feeling you're not a mechanic. I've worked as a mechanic and I'm qualified as an automotive engineer with a degree in motorsport engineering.
Degrees don’t automatically make someone actually understand anything other than what they were “taught”. Take doctors for example.
@@TwattyWankers
Never met a doctor who didn't have a degree.
how good is this kit? I'm looking at buying it.
How did the pump work? Hear good things and bad things dont know what to do. Also what if you have ABS?
Wish more "how to" videos did it like this
Diagonal brake bleed system Dodge / Chrysler uses even on LH platform . Straight to point less than 45 minutes done .
I can see that you have out in a lot of effort. Hats off to you for wanting to work on your own car. I have written a few tips off the top of my head. I hope that they will help you. But, most of all I would recommend that you do 3 things. Please don't be offended. I really don't mean to upset you. Change a few things and you would have a good job, well done. It won't cost you a penny and it could save you money. Better still, you will be safe. Good luck!
1, watch a video on how to safely jack up your car. I can't help worrying that you are going to get hurt. And, I really wish you well.
2, watch a video and learn how to do the job that you are going to do before you start it. Read about it. Go through it in your head. Then enjoy doing it.
3, watch a few videos about safety. Protective clothing. Gloves. Goggles and so on. Avoid getting chemicals onto your skin. When you get it onto your hands it goes onto your tools. Then, back onto your hands. Brake fluid is nasty stuff and it gets everywhere.
Don't slosh brake fluid about. It tends to splash little drops. They can go a fair way. It's really not nice if it goes into an eye.
If you leave the bottom wheel bolt until last, the wheel won't keep tipping over. Pour your brake fluid more slowly and from as low as possible. Then you won't fill it full of bubbles. Don't remove the brake nipples. Just crack them open until fluid runs freely. A ring spanner won't slip off the nipple so easily and it will be sitting there ready for you to close the nipple. I'm not even going to talk about the PTFE tape.
Don't trust a jack. Really. Don't trust it at all. Axle stands. Large blocks of wood. Anything solid. And for crying out loud, put some gloves on. You're like a walking health hazard. Start with the longest pipe. Finish with the shortest.
I'm sure that others will have told you most if not all of what I have said. Think about this. There will be a flood of people worrying about your safety. If one person tells you....you can ignore it. If a lot of people tell you the same things...maybe you should listen.
Best wishes to you.
You shouldn't have to do the job twice. Do it once. Do it right. Then you won't have to do it again.
Or, if one person tells you and they are correct...
I thought your ment to start on the wheel that is farest away from the cervo
You are. I'm a ASE certified mechanic.
Rocky fish yup your right he's suppose to start by staring with the wheel furtherest to to the Cuervo he did all wrong!
It don’t really matter a lot of people jump off bridges to thers a lot of mechanics that start up front and do back last and they have no prob it works it’s whatever really works they tell you to do a lot of things don’t mean it’s always right I would not use Teflon tape I would use grease as in other videos but that’s up to him for the amount of time the tape is on ther it’s not going to eat the tape so whatever works the grease works for me he like s tape if it works that’s all that matters
It's a clio, small car
@@thinking19018 what's that got to do with anything
hands down the BEST video on how to do this on youtube. i was completely clueless on this process till i saw this video. GREAT JOB.
Watching here from new York city
you start at the farthest brake first meaning the rear passenger side
a po to ta taśma teflonowa dobry pomysł ale co z nią będzie gdy dostanie temperatury dużej ?? ;) ale pomysł super ;)
And when is bisnis the end you must wash brake oil with hot wather.
Thet is corect.
on that first wheel, why'd you close the bleeder screw before all the air evacuated?
Still see a lot of bubbles , wonder if this pump really works or just not efficient enough
I can’t get the handle back on, if anyone knows how to let me know please. And when I was pumping I wasn’t getting anything over 1psi so could someone help me out there too!
I like this method. I gives a solider pedal.
jack stand
I finally got that pump, well the Matco version and comes with brake fluid bottle adaptors and a bigger container, I tried that teflon tip and it worked very well! Thanks
Nice video but it's recommended to bleed the furthest wheel (typically right rear) then the opposite side front which is on the same brake circuit (two ccts on a car). Then bleed the left rear and front right for the other brake circuit. Never used these kits but suspect there is a pressure release valve for any refilling etc given the container is quite small to stop any unnecessary brake fluid spraying. How does it compare to the standard no-return valve and hose method?
Further is correct - most master cylinders are based on two chambers-
Front & Rear, not cross mixed.
You'll see two ports enter the Master Cyl from Res.
The first motion of brake pedal always applies rear brake circuit first -
the 2nd 1/2 of travel applies the front. This controls skid basics.
When rear brakes see contact pressure - then fronts are next.
So bleed both rears - then fronts in order of distance from master.
The biggest problem - rear drum brake shoes not set correct.
If shoes do not make solid contact before first 1/2 pedal travel -
then fronts do all the work - hence Warped Hot Spotted Rotors.
Felt as shudder in the pedal - making hard stops.
Hot spotted rotors are now junk - they cannot be cut true again.
This is why 4 wheel Disc Brakes are the best feature.
Vacuum Bleeding can lead to weak/soft pressure - So always do a final pressure bleed in the end by brake pedal.
Vacuum stretches trapped air bubble - usually at a fitting up near the master.
Anti-Seize applied to bleeder threads is the saving grace to insanity -
when they rust solid & break off. But we deal with it with torch to not happen.
I agree Fall.... My dad took AutoScience in college and worked in a few shops... He taught me to bleed farthest from the MC and work your way towards the closest. I showed him the video and he wondered what the TefTape thing was all about. But it is a good video other than those two issues.
That's what he did. If you were paying attention you would have seen that.
Jack Fountain What he did and said are two different things entirely. If you were paying attention you would observe the incorrect recommendation to bleed the wheel closest to the Master Cylinder.
He's not bleeding he is replacing.
Great video but never ever seen teflon tape used on the bleeder screw? why?
In using a vacuum pump it helps seal the threads from air leakage
Teflon tape on threads is just better protection from seizing in long term conditions. Can also prevent fluid leaking past sloppy fit of threads during bleeding, found on remanufactured castings,
but has no affect other than that.
The bleeder has a tapered seat that seals the system.
But usually anti-seize applied to threads is the standard protection used to prevent breeders from breaking off turned cold.
When They are frozen - small tip torch is necessary heating the housing at the bleeder. Over 50 years restoring brake systems, when parts are no longer made for old vehicles, the goal is prevent damage at all costs.
Cheers
Pay attention to the video, he says why...
@@LuchoPortugayo yes, but is what he says correct?
this is a very good tutorial for DIY doers, but the process looks painfully long
Have tried this bleeding kit once, it draws in more air from around the bleed nipple screw, wasting more brake fluid so threw mine in the bin, now I use a pressurised bleeding system made from a garden sprayer, pump up the pressure and bleed each nipple in sequence, perfect job and no wasted fluid,
Look on RUclips to see how to make your own..
rick hctep ii
Rick hctep don't give up on the mightyvac yet. Put a dab of grease on the bleeder then attach hose. The grease will seal the air coming from between the bleeder and hose.
Just let gravity push fluid down & through the calipers. Use clear hose & crack the bleeder a full turn. Takes longer, but you can do it alone. Keep watching the fluid level in the master cylinder!
There is a school that prefers nearest first so you don't drake grubby fluid through the system - I too would also be unhappy with bleed nipple removal and putting stick tape on in case it left residue - maybe a bit picky but brakes is brakes
so was your brake pedal holding its original position, nice and firm? or did it have the same, ole "spongy feeling" when you drove the car? meaning that the brake pedal traveled 1/3rd of the way down to stop the car.
+Jeff Fuehr A spongy pedal means you have air in the system. Find the source and fix it.
Thank you for showing me how to use this one I bought me a Pittsburgh brake bleeder and it wasn't worth the shit so I returned it
Natiive Jay I think I had the same one - the cheap ones of these are notorious for leaking
If your car has ABS brakes turn on the ignition the activate the ABS sensor, otherwhise you can have a faulty Anti Lock Brake system, it won't work properly. Furthermore I learned always to bleed the longest line first, mostof the time right rear brake, then left rear, right front and as last left front. This is for left hand drive cars. Right hand drive the order will be left rear, right rear, left front and as last one right front. Dictated by the position of the master cilinder. And yes, always ware gloves.
Bleed on all cars as follow.
RP
RD
FP
FD
And if equipped on MC.
F
R
NEVER start from front.
Further more, not sure if you had them on but ALWAYS use jack stands or frame stands and have your wheels chalked opposite side of where you are jacking from.
He's not bleeding. He's replacing.
jaket2k9 Starting from the wheel furthest from the fluidcontainer.
Will3 asdasd
Its how its typically done on most vehicles unless specified in the FSM.
my 96-00 honda Chilton book says to bleed LF,RF,RR,LR
+adambsk8
Always follow the manufactures instructions.
Great video and thanks for posting a complete no-cut video! How important is the teflon tape business? Given that bubbles coming from those threads are harmless, does one really need to put the tape on the threads? I prefer not to have to take off the bleed screw completely
You don't really need to put the tape on the threads but it's easier to create vacuum with teflon tape around the threads. You'll have to pump much more in order to keep vacuum without tape.
+TutoBuild Eng I thought the 12 years of grime would make a better seal than Teflon but thank you for the video.
+walter kersting
It also stops the nipples rusting solid in the callipers and wheel cylinders.
it would trap moisture in thus rusting it faster actually
I just remove my bleed screws and wipe them dry and apply copper grease to JUST THE THREADS, this seals them when bleeding and they will not seize up, and the copper grease CANNOT get into the cylinders as someone said before.
у меня vw j etta mk2короче тормоза отказывает.Что надо делать.
I think I can do this without taking the big 18" wheels off of my truck and putting them back on. At least I would hope so.
I thought it was start with the wheel most far from the master cylinder
I know you're not going underneath but, use jack stands.
Why can't you just get under the chassis with the tires resting safely on the ground?
A squirt oil can and a vacume hose works just ad good, cost 5 bucks. You dont need expensive equipment
I have always been reluctant to use this method , for fear of pulling air back into the system around the bleeder screw ,and not being able to see the absense of air bubblesin the fluid coming out....
I have done a lot of brakes, on a LOT of vehicles. I can totally vouch for this method! The trick is to ONLY crack the bleeder when you have a vacuum. This way any air that sneaks past the bleed fitting gets sucked out before it enters your brake system! Works like a charm on hydraulic clutch systems too. I don't bother with teflon tape though. I coat the threads with the non hardening Permatex. Makes a nice sticky seal and they don't corrode stuck.
Grease and by pumping you need to adjust the proper tighness. Barely open is suffisant.
i've never seen lug nuts like that, are you in france? great video, thanks!
You bet, i live in france.
'Dem Germans do it as well.
Travis Golightly They have these type of lug nuts in Canada as well on alot of vehicles for their winter set of wheels.
Many types of these lug nuts in USA
+Drew Batelli Mercedes.
The first step after raising any vehicle is to support the vehicle on a jack stand , then you remove the wheel
So there's no need to pump the brakes while sucking air from the line only after when you're done to check for firmness?
Yes, no need.
Pumping the brakes is the foot method and requires 2 people to do it right. Powerbuilt tools used to make a great "one man bleader" that allowed you to pump the brakes and a check valve in the hose controlled flow. I had 2 of them. But they wear out fast (10-15 brake jobs) If youre doing that much brake work buy a mighty vac or something similar.
4 wraps of Teflon tape??? One is always sufficient. 4 is overkill.
To be honest I would have thought the same, but I used my mighty vac for the first time today, and depending on the quality of the bleeder and casting threads 4 wraps would be best.
I've always bled brakes the old fashioned way, and I'm tired of it. Happened to find one on sale and snagged it. At issue is the vacuum.
As per directions you pump it 15 times, which is around 20psi. Sloppy threads leak. I wrapped the first bleeder twice, and greased the tip for the vac fitting. Lots of tiny bubbles even when bleeder snug. Time wasted. Second bleeder 3 wraps + grease. Way better, some fine tuning and was done quick.
Re-bled first fitting after loosening and adding silicone grease to the threads. It sealed it enough for a proper bleed, but next time I'm using four wraps.
Teflon tape doesn't "create a seal" on the threads, believe it or not, it's used to lubricate threads so you can get bolts/screws more tight to create a seal, mainly used for plumbing when rubber gaskets are using in plumbing.
You need to buy thread sealant to seal your threads, not teflon tape
It lubricates TAPERED threads so they can jam tight together and form a seal. For the purpose of straight threads, it creates a temporary seal by filling the void.
I was just worried you were going to do the work in that sweater seen at the beginning of the video.
Not bad but but not for burping a caliper. Just put a hose on the bleeder and depress the brake pedal (dont bring it to the floor).
How tight do I make the bleeder valve when I'm finished? hand tight?
yes
Doesn't have to be very tight. The older they are the easier they snap in half if over tightened.
Firmly closed. Better look at a service manual. Can't tell whether you are thinking finger tight or using a wrench...
i was using the mityvac wrong , so now i got so much air in the system , How i take it the air out? help please
yo yo boss
Axaxaxa
Good idea to use sealing tape, but I won't be doing that. I'm lazy lol
Don't use Teflon tape brake fluid eats through it otherwise good video
Almost right!
a) You're putting FOUR wraps of teflon on an area that may heat-up to 600F in use- the fitting is designed like a 'pipe' fitting; boola teflon can cause a failure IMHO.
b) Start with the furthest wheel from the master cyclinder, and continue inward from their.
c) Note that brake fluid comes in SEVERAL colors, eg. red, green, yellow. This is for a reason: it allows you to visually see the new fluid when you (pump) the bleed, and can stop when the color changes.
d) Before doing anything, visually inspect the lid seal(s) and contents of the master reservoir. If there is any wierdness, pump it out first, and wipe it clean/dry... and add new fluid. Smell the lid seal: if it has a faint varnish smell to it, it is severely compromised.
Brake fluid is anhydrous (that is, those common fluids with a DOT spec below DOT5) , meaning it SUCKS water right out of the atmosphere. (Storing old brake fluid can allow it to suck in moisture too; discard it) The water first mixes into the brakefluid (dangerously lowering it boiling point, such that 'vapor lock' occurs when you need your brakes the most), and with increasing concentrations, can creat a gel-like substance at the bottom of the master reservoir.
Don't mix Dot5 with Dot3 or Dot4.
My old high school shop teacher was quite a character and loved to put things in strange ways. His way of putting that DOT5 wasn't for use in commuter vehicles was "high performance women and high performance cars both use silicone." After reading your educated post, I'm sure you know about DOT5 and silicone.
Essieu arrière focus 2005
How many litters do I need to put in ma master cylinder,and for how long do I need to change the breakfliud
Didn't know that Master Cylinders had litters, 😃😃😃😃😃😃😃😃😃😃😃😃
I did it,I wouldn't say it's nessacarily clean though.
hey, does that pump make your brake pedal go down, by itself?
+Jeff Fuehr No, the brake pedal does not go down. When the pedal is not being pressed the fluid is not under pressure. It will be sucked past the port holes in the master cylinder .
Someone coreect me if I'm wrong but each time he remove next bleed valve he introduce air to system and bleeding of previous wheel becomes pointless? At 2:47 you can even see a lot of air leftover in hose and he "finished" that wheel...
dude, you should wear gloves
Nicholas Pisca why
David G
Gloves are devices that protect your hands. When you touch various automotive chemicals without protection, those chemicals absorb into the skin, and are transmitted thoughout the body. Often they accumulate in the liver, and due to their toxicity, they cause small but permanent damage. Over time, those build up and can result in shortened life span and other neurological disorders.
Nicholas Pisca
I just did this job without gloves
me too, what are the health effects
o Lemurs Carcinogens. Elements in the fluids on your hands will be absorbed into your skin and into the bloodstream. Every fluid put into a car is bad for you. It will also give you skin problems. It was uncomfortable watching this guy's hands dripping with brake fluid. A friend's wife's dad died of skin cancer directly attributed years of working on cars with no gloves. I can't over estimate how bad it is for you, just buy a box of 100 latex gloves for £6, please wear gloves!!
Should have at least put tire under car in case it fell I’ve see hydraulics fail in a jack all you have to do is put tire under rotor also use grease to stop air instead of Teflon tape it could get clogged in lines grease all around nipple will stop air take for a little test drive if you have brakes all he did was get in and pump them you could go around block and buy the time you got back you may have no brakes seen that before all it takes is a second to jack a little higher if you don’t have jack stands then put your tire under the front end at least it will stop it from falling on your foot or something some kids could be whatching setting a bad example
Holy crap, never never never never trust a hydraulic jack with no stand under the vehicle