How To Quickly Flush & Bleed Brakes By Yourself
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- This video covers how to flush and/or bleed your brakes by yourself in a matter of minutes with a hand vacuum pump. There is no need for a buddy to pump the brakes for you with this method. While I'm working on a 2003 Ford Escort ZX2, this technique works for all hydraulic systems with a bleeder valve. This video is an in-depth guide on how to do this job without the need for power or air tools.
The vacuum pump kit I used is:
Mityvac MV8000 "Automotive Test and Bleeding Kit"
This kit is available at most auto parts stores, and is fairly inexpensive considering how useful and versatile this tool is. The hand pump and accessories are available in different kits as well as individually from various sources.
In the video, I incorrectly stated PSI (pounds per square inch) when I should have said inHg (inches of Mercury).
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The information in this video is for educational purposes only. Pet Rock assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Pet Rock recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Pet Rock.
Thanks for the grease tip. I suffered from air bubbles as well when i was doing my car. I thought air got in my lines but it was just a poor connection
No problem. Glad to be of service.
"Thanks for the grease tip." That's what she said.
Thanks, always bled with help and gonna get a vacuum tool. Was curious how well they worked. Thanks so much
They work great and speed up the bleeding/flushing process a lot. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Pet Rock's Garage Was well worth the watch. Nothing worse than buying something and finding out not worth the time and money. Seeing it work definitely helps. I'm sure others agree. thanks again.
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Nicely done. Quick and to the point with no nonsensical babbling. That's how instructional videos are supposed to be. Thanks!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great advice on the grease. Haven't used one of these yet, just picked one up. But everywhere I read, they post about the false air bubbles. No one every posts a solution. I was going to take a small zip tie for each caliper.
+Scotty “Scooter” B, thanks. Hand vacuum pumps have a bunch of different uses (diagnosing EGR valves, finding vacuum leaks, removing excess fluid etc). A zip tie wouldn’t help because the air typically enters at the base of the bleeder screw, not where the hose connects to the bleeder. Good luck with your brake job.
Fan-friggin-tastic! You made it look simple man.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Excellent step by step while explaining everything so clearly !!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Brake fluid and paint don't mix at all A tip for people if you spill brake fluid clean area with water it will neutralize the brake fluid lots of water
Yeah, I mention as such in the video. I'm not sure about water, but brake clean works really well too.
@@petrocksgarage I said water because brake fluid becomes less effective with water contaminets its hydroscopic so if you use a ton of water in that area it will flood the brake fluid with water and brake fluid will obsorb the water and become less potent and corrosive to paint
@@petrocksgarage yes brake clean works but it's also harmful to certain paint water will neutralize the corssivness of brake fluid
You have the best video on this on you tube the grease is a great idea a little grease don’t hurt no one it’s like every body all wound up about getting brake fluid on your hands I’ve had my hands soaked with it like I’m still living after doing it a quite a few years are you not worried about wen you emptied out the brake fluidity at first that it would get more air in the master or buy refilling and doing the process you don’t have t worry about air I got to go bleed a 95 gmc with bullshit abs and I had to change a line the line goes to abs unit also wen line broke it went dry so I’m sure I’m going to have a fun time getting air out of system I went and bout a vacuum unit yesterday I would rather use pressure but they are expensive any way I got to go get at it and hopefully I can get some brakes on this ole dually thank you for you great informative video
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Good info without wasting time on unnecessary comments. I've watched 4-5 videos on this subject and some waste half the video on gab. Also, you're the first to mention not to get brake fluid on your paint - and you mentioned it twice. Thanks.
+George Ruff, thanks. I’m glad my videos helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
I agree
I agree. Good video
Thank you very much that was exactly what I needed to know. Very informative. Keep up the great work.
Garry Gosnell, thanks. I appreciate it.
Thank you, very helpful, I like the grease sealing technique : )
+Drew M, no problem. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Wonderful video! Anybody ever try to bleed the brake system with their wife?? Now...I was told when I did this for the 1st time to start with the brake line furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest line in order to get all the brake fluid out of the system. The furthest line is usually the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front and finish with the left front. Just thought I would add this info to a great video.
Yes, that is a good tip & rule to follow.
My wife has ALWAYS helped me bleed the brakes on my cars. She has gotten pretty good at it over the years. I got an auto bleeder and she got mad at me! She told me she really enjoys helping me, so needless to say, I just went back to letting her help me. If I am at my friends house, we just use the auto bleeder. lol.
In several videos, I keep hearing the person refer to vacuum as psi, or pressure. Actually, a vacuum pump is creating a vacuum, not pressure in the line. PSI gauges move clockwise, registering pressure in pounds per square inch. Vacuum gauges move counterclockwise, registering vacuum in inches of mercury. Just like a straw in a soda. If you blow into the straw, you're creating pressure in the straw, and you see bubbles in your soda. By sucking on the straw, you're creating a vacuum in the straw, which causes the soda to flow into your mouth.
Yes, I know I was saying PSI when I should have been saying inHg. I mentioned as such in the description. As for vacuum not being a pressure, I would disagree. Vacuum is a pressure given that it is a continuous force being applied to an object in contact with it (in this case the brake fluid). Vacuum is also calculated taking the delta between atmospheric & absolute pressure. It can also be referred to as negative pressure if using gauge pressure. So using the term pressure in reference to vacuum is still technically accurate. Just sayin'... Thanks.
hey bro just a tip I guess you have not thought of yet. when you drain the master cylinder you can use the mityvac to do that that way you can throw away the turkey baster. I've got the same system been using it for years. also the little reservoir always bother me so I upgraded to a peanut butter jar I can do all 4 brakes without having to empty the reservoir. I gotta the fittings for my Home Depot. hope this helps you brother :)
+allen rodon, Yeah, I know I can use the mitivac to drain the reservoir. Another commenter mentioned it a while ago. Its a good idea and I've used it since I made this video. The peanut butter jar is another good idea. Thanks for the tip.
There is a problem with that. If you don't build up vacuum and insert the other end into master, you would start pulling fluid into the piston.
And you could use the peanut butter instead of grease to seal up the line...a two-fer!
How do you connect everything to the peanut butter jar?
I like that you get straight to the point and don't do a lot of repetitive talking that brings u back to the same thing. Kept it straight forward, simple and made it look easy. Great job 👍
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
tip: to prevent any spilled fluid from going anywhere, wrap a rag around the mouth of the fluid reservoir so any spill falls on the rag.
Thats a good tip!
Thanks for the excellent video. Very helpful.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Excuse my ignorance...would you re-fill the brake fluid reservoir prior to bleeding the other three brakes so that you don't run out of clean brake fluid? Thank you for the video as well.
Yes. You don't want the reservoir to get too low otherwise it will let air in the brake system. If that happens you have to start all over again. You should also keep an eye on the level as you are bleeding each caliper. I typically top off the master cylinder reservoir when the vacuum pump reservoir gets full.
@@petrocksgarage bro I have a 1978 datsun 280z. I'm replacing my master cylinder. What I was doing running brake fluid in to the brake lines and sucking thru a vacuum pump I bought.. Is there another way to clean old brake lines or easier. Or am I doing it correctly?... I was thinking to
Disconect the four lines from the calipers and put compressed brake fluid and use the can to flush ac sistem... Do you think it will work ?
@@slv_car_refinisher6864, it is a little hard to understand what you are asking. Compressed brake fluid? Flush AC system? Please elaborate. This question also might be a good candidate for it's own comment instead of replying to someone elses. Thanks.
@@petrocksgarage first of all do you know what a ac flush can is?
@@slv_car_refinisher6864, yes, but why would you want to put those chemicals into your brake system? No idea how it would react with brake fluid or the seals inside. That stuff is designed for AC systems not brake systems. Two completely different systems.
Good presentation. Thank You
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I don't have a cat to help me, will a wiener dog be okay ??
+Robert Rouse, a wiener dog would probably be better. It's back is flatter & better for holding your socket tray and they will (sometimes) stay when you tell them to. :-)
Robert Rouse lol
Even better if it's a male. He will pre-soak the wheels for you.
I dont have a garage, I do all my bike's maintenance in the backyard with mummy skunk, she is sweet and curious.
Great Video. There are some hopeless explanations out there.
I think you nailed it.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Really good video. Video was clear and easy to see and the explanation was very well done. I was looking for a way to bleed my brakes without pumping the pedal, and I just happen to have an old mightyvac that I have had for a long time but never used much, so I think I am in business. Thanks for the time to make the video.
No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Ch TУT МOЖНО НАKРYTИTЬ ЛAЙKИ, ПOДПИСЧИKOВ PАCКPYTKА ГРУПП. ПЕPЕХОДИТЕ В ПPОФИЛЬ, TAМ CСЫЛКА HА CAЙТ
Great info, to the point...why doesn't any one producing these vids give us an clue on what to do with all that dot 3 we have in the containers we just filled? Do I recycle it with my oil, or just pour it down the storm drain?
What ever you do definitely do _NOT_ pour it down the storm drain. That would be really bad, on multiple levels. I really hope you were joking. Different states/counties have different laws about it, but my local auto parts stores recycle brake fluid separate from regular oil. Call your local auto parts store to see how they take it. Hope that helps.
Have the same pump. Rebuilding calipers and replacing the rear wheel cylinders in my car now so I will be doing this soon too. Thanks for the tip about the grease. I did my truck last spring and never was sure when all the air was out because of the fitting leak as you addressed with the grease. As it turned out for me all was good but nice to know how to avoid that confusion in the first place. Thanks!
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out. Good luck with your car.
Thanks for the video. Came across this while searching for other ways and a better pump. I've been using this method for a few years now. I skip the grease because it's a mess and doesn't really do anything. Bubbles aren't really important. Just tells yo you're sucking in air from the loose bleed valve. Air isn't going to flow in the valve and flow thru all your components. Just keep sucking until new fluid comes out and done. The pressure doesn't really matter also. I just close the bleeder as it's sucking. that's it. The pin on the mityvac is quite annoying. Keeps coming off. I may 3d print something to just lock it in place while i'm pumping.
If you are doing a full bleed because the brake system was opened up (e.g. replaced brake line, master cylinder or caliper etc) you definitely do not want any bubbles otherwise there is no way to know if you've gotten all the air out or not. That is what the grease is for. If you are just doing a brake fluid flush then you could make the assumption you are referring to. However, if you do you could miss any air that could have gotten into the system. But in the end, its your ride so do with it what you want.
Re miti-vac pin: I haven't had that issue while pumping. The issue I tend to have is accidentally hitting the pressure relief lever while I'm pumping or after I pumped it up and put it down on the ground. Wish I had a 3d printer to print up a guard of some kind.
Good trick with the grease around the bleeder.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video, thanks!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Wow this has to be hands down the best video tutorial on how to bleed your brakes and how to properly us a vacuum pump.
You totally rock. as always be blessed
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Bleeding can also be done by pressuring the system, caution, plastic parts break, not too much pressure.
The vacuum pump produce inches if vacuum not psi. I know you know that. Thanks, I'm going to buy that kit.
Inches of Mercury, but yeah, I mixed it up in the video. I added a correction in the description.
Thanks for the video, good tip on the grease to control small leaks, but you are drawing a vacuum not pressure with the pump.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Vacuum is negative pressure, btw.
www.quora.com/What-is-the-difference-between-negative-pressure-and-vacuum-pressure
Awesome video thanks for posting it
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Just ordered the Mityvac based on your video. 45 bucks and it'll be here tomorrow. Replaced the calipers on my '97 Toyota T100, but had no idea how to bleed the system. Thank you very much, sir.
No problem. Glad to be of service. Good luck!
@@petrocksgarage it worked like a charm. Brake pedal is firm. Everything is good. Thanks again.
@@heinzkitzvelvet Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Best brake bleeder video I've seen! The engine is the 2.0 liter Ford zetec dohc, small? Sure. But the Honda k20 and f20c, are likely the best 4 cylinders ever made
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm not an expert of 4 cylinders. I'm more of a 6 & 8 cylinder guy. But Honda does make good engines, if they are properly maintained of course. I was mostly commenting, in the video, on the condition of the car itself, which was pretty beat up. It actually got T-boned & totaled by a drunk driver with no injuries a few months after this video was made, which is why there are no other videos on this channel of that car.
Good video. I always crack the bleeder screw first with a regular socket, then switch to the line wrench.
Thats a good tip, especially if you don't have line wrenches. Preferably a 6 point socket.
Yip! blue tac works great too, easier to clean up. Also that kit comes with a short hose to go down to the bottom of the catch bottle into some fluid so no air can go backward to the brake, and with the penny sized suction cup adapter on it, it acts like a one way valve only letting fluid inward from the caliper then sucking onto the bottom of the container so no old fluid can go back. They're really cool once yah know how to use them. They're completely useless without grease or Bluetack/Plasticine. Thanks heaps.
Glad you liked the video.
Always wondered what those little suction cups were for
@@grizzladams yeah, I admit, I didn't know for yonks either. Lol
From 5 years in the future, thank you.
No problem... from 5 years in the past.
wow rock, great video. i know it's 7 years old but so timely for me, my mityvac just showed up & i was youtubing for some tips, so thanks heaps for taking the time. hey quick question if you don't mind, one of your commenters mentioned not using prior opened bottles of brake fluid - something about being alcohol based & maybe losing some of it's function. is this true? i've actually never heard this before & i've got a pretty big bottle that's been opened before & has been on the shelf for a couple years, man - i'd just love to be able to use it. it's on an old 1990 ford van if that makes any difference. any gurus out there that have opinions...i'd love to hear them. thanks again pet.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re not using an opened bottle of brake fluid: yes that is true but not because of it being alcohol based. Its because brake fluid is hygroscopic. So over time it will absorb moisture from the air and turn a darker color (e.g. brown or black). Dot3, Dot4 & Dot3/4 brake fluid should be clear to a slight yellow/tan color. If the brake fluid in your brake fluid reservoir is a dark color then it is time to change it out. Water in the brake system can cause all sorts of problems like hard brake lines rusting from the inside out, quicker brake fade and spongy brake pedal among others. If the contents of your bottle is still clear/yellow/tan then I would go ahead and use it. If its a darker color then its no longer good and I would recycle it with your engine oil at your local autoparts store (your doing that, right?). Hope that helps. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage wow thanks for the quick reply. yeah, my local napa won't touch the old oil hahaha, but the dump does. thanks a lot rock, yeah if i'm going this far with this brake bleed i'm definitely going to now start out with brand new, thanks so much because i would have had no idea that the stuff degrades like that. i've never used the pump method before so i liked the breakdown on where those possible leaks could occur. i actually got the mityvac to test a bunch of broken lines in my old van (damn packrats) so it was really nice to see someone use this thing in action. thanks again rock, i really do appreciate guys like you taking the time to post tutorials...and then actually reply! -barbie
@@8barbies779 no problem. Going with fresh fluid is a good idea. Better safe than sorry. Good luck.
Nice tip regarding the use of grease around the nipple. A simple and very useful video. Thanks.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thank you from the future. Still no flying cars so here I am.
No problem. Glad to be of service from the past. Even flying cars will have hydraulic systems that need to be bleed.
Your amazing! Thanks so much for this great tutorial! I owe you one!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thanks. I think the one person system is easier than having one person in the car pumping the brakes and opening and closing the blender valve. My MightyVac is so old it was made in the USA! Maybe they still are, hope so.
Thanks. Mine is over a decade old and it doesn't say where it was made.
This video is great! I wasn't sure if the mc reservoir cap was supposed to be put back or not after adding fresh brake fluid. And air entering the system at the bleeder valve is definitely something to watch for so great you mentioned it. I learned this the hard way myself lol if only I'd watched this first!
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video cleared some things up for you.
excellent vid. I am going to use the vacuum method. I've been using the two man pump the brake pedal for years and i never get it right. one, i even pushed the brake pedal to the floor and wrecked the master cylinder seal. thanks!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. This method should be a lot safer. :-) Good luck!
Thanks for the tutorial. I would recommend using silicon grease for the seal rather than moly. Its more effective and not as messy.
Use whatever gets the job done really, IMO. I'll have to try silicone grease on my next brake job. Thanks for the tip.
Would Vaseline work in place of grease? I've got a big ol tub of Vaseline right here. ;)
If you are being serious, no. It won't work because Vaseline is not viscous enough.
Your excess grease tip is amazing for stopping the air bubbles coming through the threads on the bleeder screw.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Seriously! Thank you! We were doing this forever and didnt know what was wrong until we tried the grease trick and realized we got all the air out already and it just wasn't air tight, oof.
The grease tip is going to be very helpful, THANKS. I’ve tried other methods, but never thought of grease. Love it. Thanks again.
You can also wrap some Teflon Tape around the Bleeder Valve and hose area as well.
Tyrone Johnson yeah if you wanna spill your brake fluid everywhere to get it on there
Thanks for the video, it was easy to follow and informative. I know for a fact I wouldn't have been able to this without all the tricks you mentioned. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Thanks alot. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Awesome video u actually told us how to do everything. Unlike some other people tnx
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I'm about halfway thru. good video bud, and great explanation
Hope it worked out.
um, ohm, um, um, ah, um, ah, ah, um and um.
Yeah, and your point is?
Your demonstration was perfect. Your explanations were also perfect. Not overcomplicating it for anyone 👍
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it.
Change the fluid in the master cylinder before you start right on guy I've been doing that for years when I bleed brakes. The video is in depth and shows a lot of common sense stuff thanks..................
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Folks, those bleeder vacuum tools are cheap and worth their weight in gold. Nice video dude! Thanks for posting.
+Ima SuperPerson, thanks I appreciate it.
Yes, looks like the way I am going to do it. Saw the Mity vac at Harbor Freight just yesterday.
Thanks. I am replacing front callipers and rear cylinders. Old nasty brake fluid needs replaced.
1988 Dodge Daytona.
@@kerryfromaj9032 good luck!!!
Thank you for your clear instructions. I was trying to do this today in preparation for a change of pads and rotors. I was having a lot of air coming through the line so thanks for the grease technique. I also appreciate the tip about leaving the master cylinder lid ajar. It never occurred to me that I was creating a vacuum. Thank you!
I'm glad my video helped you out. Good luck.
Nice tutoring video. What kind of grease would you advice? I used 3M silicone, that I usually use on calipers sliding pins, but still a lot of air were sneaking at the screw.
I use regular chassis grease. I'm not familiar with the grease you use, but if you can slather it on and it doesn't run off it should be fine. You want a little bit of stickiness to it so it stays in place. If you still have air coming in at the base then apply more grease or smoosh the existing grease in more. Also make sure the hose isn't loose on the bleeder screw. You can test it by seeing if your setup can hold vacuum while the bleeder is fully closed. Good luck.
very helpful thank you straight to the point i love that
No problem. I'm glad it helped.
The grease around the bleeder is a great idea. I've always had problems with air leaking in there. I've had some luck using Teflon tape on the threads but I think this will work better. Great video.
K Kampy, thanks a lot. I’m glad it helped.
Thank you for going step by step and explaining everything so clearly. I have a 2002 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Liter. I'm doing work on it so I can save $$. Love the cat. I have 2 cats.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I have an 02 S10 ZR2 that blew a rear axle line. I installed a reproduction line and bought a "red-cased" vacuum pump kit... I was driving a while with just fronts, I finally got to install the repro line & wanted to crack the FITTINGS loose on the new line to see if I got fluid to the rears after filling the master cylinder... I had my neighbor pump & hold the brake pedal down, cracked the axle line at the tee, but didn't get any fluid. Shortly after the line blew a while back, the same neighbor topped the MC off seeing it was low, and I said no but he already started, so needless to say the fuid sprayed the back of the tire. I've been driving it only for necessities & emergencies but after putting the new line on today, do I have to reset the proportioning valve or ABS or anything to see fluid at the rear? It started raining so didn't check to see how full the MC is yet...
You shouldn't need to reset anything to get fluid to the rear line after you've cracked the bleeder. My guess, since it is hard to diagnose problems like this over the internet, is that you need to pump the brake pedal many times to get the fluid through the system. Will be easier with the truck running, btw. If you were already doing all that, I would suspect a blockage somewhere further up the brake line that is preventing the fluid from getting to the rear. Maybe a rusty line? If you left the rear line open for a long time it could have rusted on the inside. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage THANKS! I did have the engine running but I don't know how much pumping he was doing---he doesn't speak much English---and I didn't want to back the fittings out of the threads all the way, I had a hard time getting the fitting at the Tee started. The outboard fitting, when backed off 3 or 4 threads, you can back the tubing away from the I.F. cone and it should have been enough to at least hear air. I'll try driving it a bit and check the MC level, it should go down.
I can actually see the bleeders when I'm laying under the truck, matter of fact, I took lots of pics, but I no longer have tools--- I had to buy a cheap set of metric flare wrenches to do the job. Thanks again.
No problem. Good luck.
Really great video! Straight to the point. Good angles and great little tips! Thanks for posting!
No problem. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Use tie wrap instead of messy grease to seal the tube
Others have recommended that too and it will only help if the air is getting in between the tube and the bleeder nipple. But the air typically gets in through the base of the bleeder screw where the tube won't seal.
I like the grease trick, and when you're all done just spray it down with break cleaner
+Teri and TL Stanbro, thanks. It is handy (both the grease and the brake cleaner).
+Teri and TL Stanbro Using a zip tie on the hose works just as well without the mess.
+Sam Han, the zip tie trick only helps if the air leak is between the bleeder nipple and the hose. But the most common location for air to get in is at the base of the bleeder, where it screws into the caliper. A zip tie will not help in that case. The grease trick will handle both cases nicely.
I have had great success with the mighty vac by crimping the brake hose with needle nose vice grips that have rubber hose on the business end of the pliers (controversial technique but it has always worked for me) then I remove the bleeder screw completely and use a wire wheel to clean the bleeder threads. After reinserting the bleeder screw and releasing he vice grips, no more air leaks with the mighty vac.
I've never done this before so I got a dumb question. Would it be possible that the grease gets sucked into the brake system? I've been debating what is the best way to seal it.Some other videos on RUclips used Zip Tie to do it.
I was getting the same bubbles. I'll try the grease next time. Thanks.
Good luck.
Very nice video, took your time editing . You got to the point very clearly.
In the refrigeration field the line wrench is called a flare nut wrench. We use a larger size than that one for breaks in the auto industry.. You kept saying 15 - 10 PSI. Vacuum is read in inches or negative pressure for most of the industry in the USA . PSI is a positive pressure. ( not to knock you in any way ) You rock . keep up the good work. The one person method is to risky. I was having trouble to keep air from re entering the lines.
+Gregory martin, thanks. I appreciate it. Yeah, i know about PSI. I mentioned in the description that I mixed that up while filming. Thanks for paying attention and noticing though. :-)
+Gregory martin Bubbles are of no consequence since they enter downstream of caliper (bleeder or loose hose). Bubbles only enter bled fluid and does not enter brake system. I have used vac bleeding w/o grease or any other measures to prevent bubbles in stream. Think what would happen if you cracked the bleeder w/ no vac pump. Only brake fliuid would drain and no bubbles enter system (no pressure differential to drive bubbles into caliper). Same situation applies to vac bleeding.
Texas Pipeliner Point made very clear. I agree with you. Again good work on the video. I just put my two cents for the people who don't know positive and negative pressures, where a pump is able to be reversed and be used for both pressures.
+Texas Pipeliner, the point in bleeding the system is to get any air (and other contaminants) out of the system that might already be in the system. So you want to avoid air getting into the bled fluid and produce a false positive. The application of grease around the bleeder helps prevent that so you can be assured that you removed all the air from the system.
Pet Rock's Garage Yes, you are correct. I didn't want to sound like I was condemning the people. But being a mechanic I have learned very fast to do the job correctly the first time to the best of your ability so you do not have to go do it again. Taking short cuts is a path to pie in your face. I don't care if you get away with it many times, it will come back to bite you doing short cuts.
Another thing is home owners using old brake fluid ( alcohol base )that was already opened. The fluid is looking for moisture which kills, kills the brake system parts .
good job. I like to use white greese to seal joints. it's easier on the wife's towels later! lol... excellent video!
I'll have to check out white grease. Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Nice tip with the grease
Thanks. I'm glad it helped you out.
Pet Rock's Garage I have the Capri vacuum brake bleeder and was wondering if the seal on the bleeder valve isn’t tight and it is sucking air while draining fluid, is it possible to get air into the brakes? I would think it’s sucking the fluid and some “false” air but no way it’s going to get into the brake line. I know it looks like there’s air in the line but if that’s the only downfall I can live with it. Any thoughts thanks for the video
Yes, good tip for sure! I just use a little clip or snug a plastic wire tie, works great too.
Watched several vids on this subject. Yours was the best. Thanks for the info about the grease trick.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
my pet rock, runaway.... Thank you for your video.
Sorry to hear about your loss. :-) Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Thank you
no problem.
thank you, picked up a mityvac from harbor freight and bled the brakes by myself
Thats great to hear. Thanks for commenting. I appreciate it.
Umm, you coulda used the vacuum bleeder kit to get the old fluid outta the reservoir, instead of the turkey baster. Just sayin....
Yup, I could have. More then one way to skin a cat.
true.... and funny
Do you know more or less how often I need to. Change the breaks on a Toyota Corolla 2016 Le & 2016 Dodge Ram 1500
You should change the brake pads when the brake pads get about 1/8" thick. There is no time period to gauge off of because it entirely depends on your driving style and how much you use your brakes (e.g. the brake pads for someone who drives mostly flat highways will last longer than someone who lives in the mountains). Your front pads will also wear out faster than your rears because the front pads do most of the braking. Hope that helps.
Grease method is a winner! Thanks.
Thanks. I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
A small hose clamp or tiewrap is a less messy way.
Others have made this comment. I'll copy/paste my response below:
Zip ties only work if the air is getting in where the hose connects to the bleeder nipple. That typically isn't where the air comes in. Air typically gets in at the base of the bleeder screw where a zip tie won't do any good. You can prove this yourself by closing the bleeder screw and pumping up the vacuum pump. If it holds pressure then the seal between the hose and the bleeder screw is not where the air is getting in. Grease is the easiest way I have found to ensure a good seal at both the base of the bleeder screw & the hose/nipple connection.
Very clever. A good idea that I will use for other applications where vacuum pump is used. Thanks for the car fix "hack".
+Martin Proctor, Thanks a lot.
This helped me out a lot. My car hasn't moved because I need my brakes bleeding due to replacing the calipers both front and back. Now I don't have to keep waiting on a friend to have a day off to help me.....thanks
+Genesis Harrigan, I'm glad my video helped you out. Enjoy the new brakes and a car that can stop!
zipties are useless guys! use grease or jelly.
Exactly. :-)
For an explanation why see the other comments suggesting using a zip-tie, and my reply on why a zip-tie wouldn't help.
The twisty ties they use on bread bags work great for that, too. Been using those for decades.
Would Vaseline work in place of grease? I've got a big ol tub of Vaseline right here. ;)
J. Scott Elblein
Yup
Thanks for this video. I've had my Mityvac for 6 months and finally used it today. The grease tip was a big help. And my wife will never have to pump the pedal for me again.
And that's what I'm here for. Improving family relationships. :-)
How do you clean the vacuum pump hose lines after finishing the bleeding process?
I just wipe them down and hang them up over a pan so they can 'drip dry' for a couple days and put them away. You could shoot some brake cleaner through them, but its not really necessary. Any fluid run through these hoses should be considered dirty and not reusable, so the hoses don't have to be very clean. Hope that helps.
@@petrocksgarage does dot3 deteriorate that kind of hose (vacuum pump hoses)
@@playstation2bigs, I've been using the same hoses for at least 10 years and they don't seem to be deteriorated at all. They just discolor/yellow over time. I don't know what would happen if you kept the hose submerged in Dot3 for a long time though.
@@petrocksgarage you mean you never clean the inside hose before, for 10 years of usage, thanks for the reply bro.
@@playstation2bigs I rarely clean the inside of the hose with a shot of brake clean. I only use them for bleeding brakes, syphoning gas, and other fluids. As I mentioned, I just hang them up and let them drip-dry.
I had one of those things. Not well built. Little receiving bottle that comes with it way to small for most bleed jobs. Fail. But it does work.
If you have an air compressor just buy the vacuum bleeder from harbor freight. It's not much more money and much easier/better.
Yeah, the bottle is a little small. But it is usable. Use whatever technique/tool floats your boat.
Thanks for the tip on using grease around the bleeder hose connection. I have been fiddling with this for a whole day.
No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Pet Rock's Garage I drove the truck down to the auto parts store next to Midas and returned the parts I didn't need. Total cost of the project $60.00. That's $740.00 less than Midas wanted me to pay for work it didn't need.
Thanks for making it work.
Wow, Midas wanted to rip you off. Glad to see you saved some cash with my videos. Thats why I make them. Thanks for letting me know.
What happens if you bleed the brake line.and the brakes still goes to the floor
A couple different things could be going on. Maybe there is still air in the lines, a leaking line or connector in the system, a bad flex line that expands like a balloon when you press the pedal, or maybe a problem with the master cylinder and/or brake booster. Good luck.
From 2020, thanks for this video. By far the most comprehensive with the least amount of fluff, and gives me confidence that I can get my brake bleed done in a reasonable amount of time. Good thing I keep a few types of grease around...will likely end up employing that trick.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Glad to be of service.
Who cares who's car it is? Who cares what kind of engine it has? Who cares about your cat? Focus! Articulate! Stop mumbling!
You'd be surprised who actually cares. If you don't like it don't watch or better yet make your own video to show everyone how its done. Just sayin'...
Dan needs to get laid or take a valium.
Call me dense but is the MityVac really pressurizing the caliper or is a vacuum being drawn? Pet Rock repeats producing 10+ PSI but how would that properly bleed brakes? Good video otherwise, maybe I'm just missing something?
No, you're not dense. Applying a vacuum to a system is applying negative pressure to that system. So yes, the Mitivac is pressurizing the system. What you missed was my clarification in the description about me incorrectly using PSI. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
I did miss your clarification Pet Rock so my apologies there. Good video!
I am really GLAD that this Video is very thorough and CLEARLY explained. Not many People put much effort on their Video like you do. I myself would have done the same, but NOT too many People would pay attention or even care about attentions to details. Although I know how to do it, I just stumble upon your Video by a link. I just wanted to make sure to leave a positive comment for other People who is looking for these kinda of Vids, and followed your Instructions and they would be good : D
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thank you for this video. Now I know how to do it. How often do you do this to your car?
I mention it in the video, but the interval at which you replace brake fluid is not based on milage like most other fluids in your car. It is based on time due to the hygroscopic properties of the fluid. So you want to change it out about every 2 years.
Pet Rock's Garage thank you! I really need to change mine then.
Nice idea to put grease around the valves, I've had the exact issue you describe and I didn't think of doing that, thanks!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Great video; quick and to the point; and you cover it all !!!! Thanks !!!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
if you let the master cylinder go dry it could get air bubbles into the abs system which will make this job much more difficult. You will need computerized tool to purge the small intricate lines of the abs module. Remember to keep it topped off.
+christopher cerrillo, I warn against letting the MC run dry in the video around 8:02. Thanks for the tip though.
Sorry, that wasn't directed at you. Your warning actually prompted me to comment for anyone who is planning on flushing their brake fluid. Great video btw.
+christopher cerrillo, no offense taken. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
great job went to harbor freight for 30.00 dollars and what a job it did thanks been doing brakes for over twenty years this was very helpful thank you agian
Andre2Great1972, no problem. I'm glad it helped you out. Enjoy the new tool. :-)
Nice video. I've used the same method on everything from car hauling trailers to pick ups and small cars. Works great!
Thanks. I'll add motorcycles & go-carts to your list. :-)
Uh...the uh uh...and uh ummm. I cant uh uh watch this because uh, ummm this is uh irritating.
Yeah, not a uh original umm comment. But I'll uh reply ah anyways. I um am not ah a professional uh speaker. I uh make um ah these umm videos in ah my free time & for ah fun.
any particular kind of grease? thx
No, nothing special. I always have a grease gun of generic chassis grease laying around that I use for this purpose (and to grease ball joints etc).
Just put a small zip tie over the hose at the bleeder screw. Fast and simple.
Fast, simple & ineffective. That will only help if the air is getting in between the hose & bleeder nipple. Typically the air gets in at the base of the bleeder screw where it screws into the caliper. A zip tie wouldn't be able to seal that. Thats what the grease is for... Also fast, simple but definitely effective regardless of where the air is coming in. Just sayin'...
Good video! Very helpful. Thanks.
Stephen Lutz, thanks. I appreciate it.
Great demo !!! Clear & Straight to the point. Thank you
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Excellent video with the extra hints and stuff. Thanks
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Why use a turkey baster to suck out the reservoir when you have a vacuum pump?.
You could use either one. It's entirely up to you.
Great video. I learned something valuable with this video. The grease tip works great.
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Instead of using grease you can also use a constant tension clamps on the hose and the bleeder valve body
Others have made similar suggestions, however, it won't work. A clamp would only help if the air was getting in through the bleeder nipple & hose. But the air gets in through the base of the bleeder screw. Thats where the grease comes in and seals up the base.
@@petrocksgarage you can also use a zip tie I have used the constant tension clamps as well as zip tie methods and been working for me for 30 plus years
@@petrocksgarage true on base
@@AntonioClaudioMichael, zip tie has the same problem. They will not seal up the base of the bleeder screw (where it screws into the caliper). A zip tie or clamp wouldn't seal that. Its simple physics.
@@petrocksgarage I wasn't refering to were the bleeder threads in I was refering to the zip tie and or clamp for the hose when it's on the bleeder I get what your saying I'm not referencing a leak at the bleeder thread
Really good video:) Video was clear and easy to see and the explanation was very well done. ''The Grease'' on the screw is the trick to stop the air leaking and better pressure draw..
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.