Harbor Freight Pittsburgh brake bleeder vs MityVac : head to head review & demo
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- So today I decided to test out two of Harbor Freights brake bleeders that can be purchase at the store off the shelf. Both are affordable but are they good. Let's find out
Авто/Мото
always keep the pump higher than the bottle to avoid fluid going into the pump. also helps to have the bottle higher than the bleed valve. never let the main resevoir get lower than minimum if air gets sucked in u have to start over
It seemed like there was still a bunch of air in the system when you started the test/comparison. Since you used the Pittsburgh bleeder tool first and you could see it pulling lots of air bubbles out of the bleeder valve, it naturally resulted in having less fluid in the Pittsburgh bleeder tool's collection bottle.
Still, my interest was to see that both bleeders did in-fact work the way they were supposed to work. Also, since I am not a professional mechanic and I rarely work on brakes, I don't feel the need to have the "most comfortable" tool produced. As long as it can do the job, that is good enough for me. I mean, if I have to pump the handle a few extra times because I bought the Pittsburgh tool or if the handle isn't quite as ergonomic as the MityVac, I think I will manage. I can always wear gloves and watching your video, it looked to me like you had to pump the MityVac more times to achieve the same pressure anyway.
Don't get me wrong, I am all for buying good tools that will last but I think the Pittsburgh bleeder tool is good enough for me. I am going to go to Harbor Freight tomorrow and buy one so I can bleed the brakes on my RV after I replace the front brake hoses. I have a feeling it will perform flawlessly (as long as I don't forget to remove that infernal spacer, lol). Wish me luck!
Air was flowing past threads on bleeder nipple when open, not from inside line.
Nice Work RD. I was watching in 2x speed and didn't catch that bubble info. Thx
We regularly use the mightyvac at work. You have to disassemble them periodically because a any slight amount of brake fluid getting into the cylinder makes the rubber inside drag against the plastic. Also, the little pin that holds the handle to the internal piston constantly falls out if the piston gets stuck in the pulled position while the handle returns to the released position.
Wow thanks for the heads up. I know with the Pittsburgh I got fluid into cylinder and it was shot.
@@petescarport yeah we usually just take it apart and relube it with silicone grease and itll last for another 20 or so brake flushes before it starts to drag again. Never had it eat up the seal itself. Just whatever lube is in there.
Then they should sell the other pieces individually.
do you know which O-ring fits the small bottle? Mine expanded to the point where I can no longer place the O-ring back between the clear bottle and the black cap. I can't find replacement O-rings to save my life.
Have had a Mityvac for about ten years now. Very useful, good quality. Sadly, she is not pulling good vacuum anymore, probably the diaphragm is just old and developing cracks. But, I will definitely buy another one; it had had some HARD use during these ten years. Also wanted to say, very good review, good video.
you may be able to find a rebuild kit and resurrect the old girl
Pull it apart and clean it up and re Grease the seal and it should fix your problem.. Over time of getting a little brake fluid in them it washes all the grease away and they stop working as well as before..
Hope it helps..
Ric, they are rebuildable sir. But clean the internals first, it might just be dirty.
@@eddominates Rebuild kits are sold on eBay and other similar sites. They're usually about $35
I almost bought the MityVac at HF, but I found one identical to the Pittsburgh on line, for less, with a carry case. It's not something I'll use often and it has lots of loose parts. A storage case is a huge plus and it'll do the job. If MityVac just threw in a cheap, blow molded case I would have bought one.
I wonder if you could post the link of the place you bought the MityVac MV8000 with the case?
@@artwerner5511 it was on Amazon
MityVac usually does have a case I think
I got one for free from a garage rebuild job and it had it.
tbh I didn't notice the ring in the first vid either. I was confused though I was like it should work better than that.. even the cheapo ones can usually get the job done. this is a much better comparison!
I bought the Pittsburgh version. I live about an hour away from HF. Got home, got the first wheel off and went to use the new tool only to find out it had zero vacuum. Took it back to get another, tested it before I left and it did the same thing. Try again, same luck. Rinse and repeat 6 times. No joke- not one on the pegs worked!! So I went for the upgrade, tested it and it worked fine. However in my total lack of luck- the none of the fitting provided actually created a seal on the bleeder valves on the brakes! Had to rig something to get it to sort of work. Oh well…
Just let you know this still being recommended when I do a Google search. Also the guys write in the comment is the cheaper pump first so it would have more air. But you couldn't do it more fair test. You did an awesome job. If you had went to another will and reverse the order and use the more expensive one and did a second run at it and use a more expensive one first. Then a comparison there to see which one had more fluid. Twenty years or so ago I had a couple of those 944s. Your 944 looks being great shape.
Thank you for the comparison and the excellent quality as well as informational video. It seemed to me like the Harbor freight item had a good deal of air in with the fluid therefore it thoroughly bled the brake line prior to the MityVac test which would have removed all fluid filling the container with more brake fluid. I could be missing something though.
I’m going w the MightyVac based upon this video and it’s comments. I’ve been beating my head against the wall trying to get me ATV brakes pumped up right and it’s killin me. Thx for all the tips here
That black packing piece on the HF pump should have a "Remove Before Using" sticker on it.
Thank you for the comparison and the excellent quality as well as informational vid
Thank you.
The mityvac mv8510 is the one you want, it’s all metal, after using and breaking many plastic bleeders, the mv8510 silver line elite, has stood the test of time, it’s sucks, it blows, it bleeds, it does evap testing well, radiator testing, the included attachments are great, Having a proper box keeps all the pieces in one place, ….about $70 anyplace other than the tool truck, and the tool truck has the same exact tool, made by the same company , yet with a different brand name, and cost a ton more.
I have an older Mityvac and it broke at the plastic catch on front end. Later picked up the Harbor Freight vac pump and have not have any problems after several years.
You were doing great until you got to the volume-of-fluid test. It looks like you used the Pittsburg bleeder first. You normally get a lot more air than liquid when you first start bleeding. The two bleeders probably pulled the same volume of "stuff" from your brakes, but because the Pittsburg bleeder got tested first, more of that "stuff" was air and less of that "stuff" was liquid.
It should have been pretty equal because I fully bled the brakes before doing demo. I could be wrong though.
I agree
more air in the first pull. Otherwise fair and useful comparison.
@@petescarport there was tons of air coming out the first one.. not fair comparison..
sorry to be so off topic but does someone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb lost my login password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me
OK, that was a better video than the first one with Pittsburg unit. How many people were screaming at the screen about the spacer?? 😆
I have another brand real close to the MitiVac, pretty sure I got that from Harbor Freight. Bought it last winter for an ATV resurrection project but haven’t used it yet. Need to use it on my Jeep, which just got all new hard lines (JustEmptyEveryPocket 😆) so I will be using it tomorrow. Thanks for the insight on how these things work 👍👍
I made the same mistake with the spacer.... Not that it made a difference once I caught it. The Pittsburgh vaccum pump is garbage.
IMHO I brought the Pittsburgh brake bleeder and had to return it for it was missing two connections that I needed.
I then went to Amazon and brought the 8500 MityVac series that comes with a case and it can pressure and vacuum
test a way superior product then what you have there. Grant you it was more expensive then those two but worth the
extra money, you get what you pay for. A terrific video thank you for posting it.
Awesome. Thanks for the fill in. I agree. My next purchase will be a higher end bleeder. I will look into the one you got. Thanks again.
Been using the MityVac MV6830 pneumatic version vacuum brake bleeder for over 25 years. The biggest complaint I read are the air bubbles from leaks around the bleeder threads and universal boot supplied with the MV6830.. Since I only service my own vehicles, I decided to make a better interface. I simply got 1 brake bleeder for each car that fits the Caliper, say an M8 X 1.25mm X 24mm for example. I then ordered a longer one from Amazon for easy access, M8 X 1.25mm X 31mm. I then take a clear vinyl flexible tube 1/4" ID X 3/8" OD and slip it over the bleeder end. To secure it in place , I use a small ear clamp. Works like a champ with no bubbles. I also put a dab of grease on the bleeder threads as insurance to seal them as well... And there you have it..
Great comparison- you did a great job. Thanks.
This was to close and near, lol. I love it though. Well thought out and you owned the last Pittsburgh debacle points... Thanks Pete...
Nice comparison. Worth watching.
Thank you for viewing both of them I liked the way you did and sharing I go with a mighty vac I never bleed brakes myself and always had someone pump the brakes. With me I think it's harder on the master cycender that way.
Best practice is suck as much old fluid (turkey baster) from the master cylinder and fill with clean fresh brake fluid. You will know when you have purged all the old fluid out when you see the clean clear fluid enter your line. Do NOT however let the master cylinder go dry on you. Check after each wheel and top off as necessary.
Just suck it out with the vacuum pump.
I ended up replacing the lines and all hoses, front calipers, rebulit rear drum brakes with all new lines. New Master cylinder and flushed out the whole system.
Thanks for your reply. flushed the whole system, new master cylinder, brake lines hoses calipers and rebuilt the rear drum brakes. Work like new brakes now. Thank again
@@robertclymer6948 I'm working on an 88 Suzuki Samurai. I've had it for about 15 years. I will be replacing the brake lines at some point I"m sure. I need to start changing the brake fluid in my cars more often. That's why I just ordered one of these vacuum bleeder kits.
I also wanted to add one more comment, as it applies to pulling vac on brake bleeders. Many times you can't get a good seal with the bleeder open: air gets sucked around the threads. One way to mitigate this is to temporarily wrap a little teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder screw, reinstall, and then pull the vacuum. Just remember to either pull the bleeder and remove the tape, or be very careful and not get the tape too far down the threads. Maybe this will help someone. Cheers, Ric.
Grease around the base of the bleed valve works too .
Agree with Mr. Hemphead! Grease at base of hose into the bleeder zirt works great keeping air bubbles out of the line. A little hose clamp works great also.
There should never be a time when a bleeder valve would allow air to flow preventing a vacuum. If it ever does, that is going to appear as a brake fluid leak (once there is fluid in the caliper). If your bleeder valve allows air to bypass through the threads, replace the bleeder valve with a new one. If that doesn't work, replace the caliper.
@@topfuelteddy No, not really. If you somehow manage to stop the air leak with grease, I am certain it will rear it's ugly head the minute you have reassembled the brake system and press down on the brake pedal. You'll have brake fluid spraying out of there every time you press the brake pedal.
@@topfuelteddy I guess if the leak was coming from around the connection between the fitting on the hose from the bleeder tool where it connects to the bleeder valve on the caliper, that might work pretty well.
How do you clean the vacuum pump hose lines after finishing the bleeding process ?
have a harbor freight one, after years of having it, the capture container does not hold vacuum. had to put grease on the O ring to get it to hold. Looking for something better to bleed brakes, review was good information.
I actually got a Mityvac one time and tried to use it, and it wouldn't hold a vacuum because there was a small crack at the barbed plastic tip of the gun where the hose connects so it kept leaking air in and out. I feel that the Pittsburg won't have this issue because the tip is metal.
I had the Pittsburg and it didn't last that long. I went to use after 7 months and it did not hold a seal. I guess its Ok for a one time use. I bought a Mityvac and hope it last longer. Great video.
I got the one that looks like the HF one, got it off of amazon, it's the same vac pump as HF, for the same cost as the HF one, the one from amazon comes in a nice case and holds all the attachments, I use it with the least amount of hose as possible, thiis keeps you from laying the pump down and letting brake fluid back up threw the line, I've been using mine for years now with no problems, it works very well, it's done paided for it's over 10 fold, I also use it to check and apply vacuum, and check for vacuum leaks in automotive repairs, what a great low coast tool.
I believe the performance of these two vacuum bleeding tools would have possibly been different. if the procedure used would have been different. starting with the the bleeder valve, it has been said by some that the bleeder valve can leak past the threads. and a couple remedies for this problem are. (1) putting some grease on the threads of the bleeder valve. (2) using a thread sealer such as Teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder valve. and next during the process trying to keep the vacuum reservoir upright and above the bleeder valve. and making sure the hose coming from the bleeder valve remains above the bleeder valve. and using a slight amount of silicone grease on all the hose and bleeder valve connections. with that being said?I think I would pick the Pittsburgh vacuum pump bleeding kit. because it appeared to be of all metal construction, and it might be rebuildable. where as the plastic vacuum pump if it breaks it done. but that would be personal preference.
Nice looking Porsche. The 944 is surprisingly practical.
Thanks! I need to bleed the old brake fluid out of a 2017 Prius but it has the regenerative braking system. Is bleeding any different?
MityVac pulled more vac with one stroke(15) versus the HFP(10)... the choice is clear, just wish it wasnt so expensive for minimal pieces of plastic.
The test @9:50 was flawed from the start. You used the Pittsburgh to move most of the old, dirty fluid, then the Mightyvav got half of the clean fluid.
Also he used the Pittsburgh first which had more air in the line as well.
@@michaelhorstman2603 I agree with you all
I brought the mityvac because of the quality and accessories ,haven't tried to use it yet
Do either of these have the capability to provide pressure to something rather than just vacuum
Be careful of the plastic handle of the Mighty-Vac.., it can
break after several usages, if you're not careful.
Yeah drip a little bit of pneumatic tool oil on the reverse end where the hand rod shows it will help it to not get to stuck ,it worked for me and is got alot better
@@kaloosh2639 Awesome. Ya' see how informational RUclips
Can be?
You do know the reason why there was less fluid for Pit was the drivers side brake line is much shorter than Pass side right?
Great video
Just bought the Maaddox because it comes with a case. I can keep all the little attachments organized
May I ask how does it work
@@mikebrown5648 Works well
@@dreamingcode thanks for the information I've been looking at them so I'm going to end up getting that one
So if the Pittsburgh was used first and then mighty vac, I would believe the Pittsburgh would have less fluid because it pulled most of the air out first. Make sense? So in return comparing the amount of fluid would not be a fair judgment. Like many others if you could have a hard case to store all your parts and its not a tool you make your money from, I would chose the cheap one with a hard case as I would not be using it all the time. They both show that they can preform the task as advertised. Thanks for the video.
Now wait a minute, you can't use volume of fluid as a factor because you used them both on the same line, of course the first test is going to pull more air so naturally you will have less fluid, now if you want to put both suction lines in a full bottle of fluid that would be a fair comparison to test suction capabilities, but it was a good test for the quality of equipment and the parts of each one, plus you didn't have any grease, Teflon tape or any other type of sealant on the threads of the bleeder so you don't know how much air was being sucked in around those, looks like both will do the job although the higher priced one did look like it had better connectors for the bleeder, not sure if it's $20 worth of better but a great comparison between the two products, thanks for your help
The Mityvac comes with it's own storage container to keep the kit organized and together!!!!
someone commented this in your last harbor freight bleeder vid, but maybe you didnt see it, so just echoing. seems like you gotta take the like black plastic cap off on the handle between the bleeder and cup.
I bought a pittsburgh locally for about $15, whereas I have to ship in the mightyvac at a cost of $70. Plus, the pittsburgh came with a carry case (really handy) which the mightyvac does not.
Over the last 18 months I have used it 5 times already, it works great. The mightyvac might work slightly better, but at 4x higher price I am perfectly happy with the pittsburgh, this is not a took I use every day, and the carry case is a big deal for me, things don't get lost or misplaced.
Funny thing is I think i still have that shipping ring on mine ill have to check when I get to work tomorrow
Lol
Damn I've never been to Harbor Brake before!
Lmao. I caught that I said that when I watched it and was waiting for this comment.
Most all, if not everything is Chinese. But HF Pittsburgh tools are really quite good. For the weekend Mechanic, they will work just fine. I do however, have good industrial quality tools from my days as a Tech. You do need to go to HF though Rey, they have so so much of everything there.
Industrial engineer here and I have many Harbour freight tools in my box at work not because I can't afford better because I can I'm a engineer it's simply because they work but I wouldn't ever buy anything electric from them
Well, I just went through a nightmare with two versions of the Pittsburgh and the Mityvac. FWIW, the Mityvac is now $50 while the Pittsburgh hasn’t changed.
First, my Pittsburgh had two type B bleeder adapters and no type C when my caliper needed type C. When I exchanged it I realized that they had two versions on the shelf so I got the other jus to make sure it was from a different batch without the same packing error. The first one had a twisted metal handle design and zip ties (instead of twist ties) on the hoses. The second one took a few pumps to generate a vacuum for the pre-assembly test… and then never again. It wasn’t that it couldn’t hold a vacuum since it literally couldn’t even make one.
After two failures I just doubled-up and spent more than twice as much on the Mityvac only to find that it had only had two bleeder adapters… and they were both the same size. Is this the same error as Harbor Freight? Who knows! The only contents listing is on the packaging, not in the manual, and it doesn’t say anything about sizes. I tried it anyway and it was a spectacular failure. You simply can’t build a vacuum to even start since the bleed adapter doesn’t fit at all. I was stranded, yet again, until someone could help me do the two person bleed the next day. Before that we tried it again and couldn’t draw a vacuum even with one person to press tightly onto the bleeder while the other pumped vigorously.
quite possibly made in same chinese factory and the same mistake was made after they switched over the assembly line.. same parts bin order or whatever happened. very interesting
@@galehess6676 The ones from Mityvac are very different and their organizer tray doesn’t even have a spot for a third one, so I think they are supposed to be the same not-quite-“universal” size. I found one person on RUclips saying that they were two different sizes in his Mityvac MV8000 unboxing video but it seems he was just making the assumption I was trying not to make. I went down a rabbit hole and spent that whole day digging on the parts site, reading Amazon reviews, looking for sizes in the parts kit, and trying to find out if they were really supposed to be the same size. I can only conclude that they are deliberately hiding this information to give themselves flexibility.
Instead of “A, B, & C” like the Pittsburgh bleed adapters have molded into them, both of the “universal” ones from Mityvac have “6mm” molded on them. Not sure why they would specify the size if they are truly supposed to be “universal” and no other sizes are available, but I digress. I assume you are expected to use one of the cone pieces that fit INSIDE the bleeder’s hole if the “universal” adapters don’t fit. It seems backwards since the figment issue is that the bleeder is too small to fit so the hole is going to be even smaller with less room for a rubber cone piece to fit inside. I’m not taking my wheels off just to try that so I guess we’ll see the next time I need to do my brakes. ;)
This was a 2000 Pontiac Montana but these same calipers are used in many other GM vehicles and I’d expect common kits to accommodate them.
@@emmettturner9452 Thanks. I am not sure if my HF nipple fits tightly enough... The two larger sizes are way big, and the one that goes on snuggly may be ok, but I have run 2 Qt through and still getting air . Brakes are working well, finally, but we will bleed them a 4th time again the old fashioned way. I am not convinced vacuum pumps are worth the time for the $50 models...
@@emmettturner9452 this harbor freight is junk, doesn't seal very well, lots of tiny air bubbles, can't tell when the lines are clear lol. Ran 3 Qt through, changed lines, master, booster, no leaks, and the vac is still showing bubbles... time to invest in quality.
I've have tried them both and the Pittsburgh container would not seal to the black cap, had to use the container and cap from the MityVac to finish the job. So my chose is MityVac, hands down.
Mighty Vac all the way. Just better quality. I don’t own one, but I’ve used it many times. It’s also great for other applications throughout cars that use air & vacuum hoses. I haven’t tried it yet, but I’m sure it’ll work on our soft close/air assist systems on our Benzes, as well...
Yes you can use these to test many items. I have done it before. Great tools. Thanks for watching
LOL you had to go buy another one to replace the one that got thrown away!
I just bought one 2 days ago to test the EGR valve on my Toyota Pickup. The frickin' thing pumps great but will not hold a vacuum. I tested it by blocking the brass nipple on the pump itself with my finger. After pumping it up it slowly then quickly starts to lose vacuum. It's going back tomorrow for the $40 one. Maybe I just got a dud.
So I have purchased about 5 of them since first video. They do fail a lot. Even sometimes in the lines or filler cup. I have had the exact same issue happen. Also the Pittsburgh one will almost always collect fluid inside the pump and it's done after that. Fluid eats seals.
Same thing happened to me.
Had same problem found gauge wasn't screwed in all the way
So anybody ever use their Robinaire A/C vacuum pump for brake bleeding? (of course using some kind of acumulator resivour in line to catch liquid) How did that work out for you long term?
Will have to buy the whole unit again to get the small parts. Buy cheap this is what u get
You did not open the screw bleeder enough for the Pittsburgh Brake Bleeder, and because I live on a budget, I will go with the Harbor Fright Pittburgh product, now that you removed the ring in the handle. Thank you for two great videos!
Glad it helped. I've gone through a few of the pittsburgh ones. The issue I usually have is when fluid goes past the reservoir and into the handle. It will be ruined after that but just take time and it works great.
I was about to comment this as well. The difference in volume could have been attributed to the bleeder being open at different degrees. They both have similar diameter/length tubing, as well as a constant rate of vacuum. The only other variable would have been the bleeder or the nipple attachment but if it was the nipple attachment it would have lost all vacuum right away.
0:26 my man's said "two of HARBOR BRAKES" instead of Freight's haha
It looks like you and I are the only ones who caught that! I thought I was losing my mind.
You are waay to generous in your scoring of the Pittsburgh vaccum pump. I've just returned the one I bought and got the mityvac (which I have used before and was trying to save myself money instead of just getting it from the beginning).
The Pittsburgh vaccum pump is garbage.
I know this is old but I paid $15.99 today at Harbor freight for Christmas promotion regular price was $34.99 ... I have 4 cars to bleed including my Ford E250 cargo van... I luv Harbor freight
Pittsburgh one sucked, gave out on the first wheel, went and bought the MityVac, it got the job done quickly. The plastic handle on the Pittsburgh ripped right off, the MityVac used less pumps to hold the vacuum.
Have both and I like the Pitts better and half the price .
Mightyvac broke on my first use; piston seal was eaten by the brake fluid.
My pittsburgh bleeder has lasted literal years
Is the master cylinder opened or closed (top cap on or top cap off) during the wheel bleed?
Cap should be on when bleeding. If compressing the caliper you want to remove cap to allow back pressure air but when bleeding have cap on so no air enters into lines.
It doesn't make sense one would pull more fluid than the other if the vac is the same. MityVac is obviously better quality but for DIY use the cheap one looks to do the job.
Seems obvious to me, the MityVac is a better quality tool. The feel of accessories tells me there is more focus on quality from MityVac than Pittsburgh. I'm betting that focus also included build quality of the actual pump. It's just worth it to me to pay a little more and have a tool that will last longer. I suspect, the Pittsburgh isn't going to last nearly as long as the MityVac. I'll take the MityVac for the difference in price. In fact, I'll be ordering the MityVac today.
Bought one this morning, having seen them in reputable shops for decades. Pittsburgh is fantastic for those on a real budget, I just recommend oiling such equipment to really get amazing mileage out of them.
Major design flaw with the HF.A straight metal shaft attaches to the rubber plunger with just a friction fit it will easily pop out and i keep't on trying to reattach it but it just keeps pulling out.I was in the middle of a brake job and had to go back to Harbor Freight and get the Mighty Vac.Your just wasting your money on the Pittsburgh,just get the MV it works very well.
I don't think you have it right, old Mityvacs were great, I had one last me twenty years. Six weeks ago I bought the plastic Mityvac, used it three times and the handle broke in half making it totally worthless, I returned it to Amazon and they sent me another one. The second one lasted 23 days, being used about 30 minutes a day for a job much lighter than bleeding brakes. The plastic handle on this one broke in the exact same place, and since I wasn't fully confident of this model I tried to be as gentle with my pumping as possible. Today I sent it back to Amazon for a full refund, not a replacement unit. I was so disappointed and when I called the manufacturer they didn't even want to talk about it, told me to just send it back to Amazon, that sucked.
So my mityvac has since broke on the handle as well but I was able to fix. It’s not the best one you can get but goal was to compare the two cheapest ones. Thanks for watching
I honestly would like to see one about the Maddox brake bleeding / vacuum line testing kit that's also found at Harbor Freight for around $60. I picked one up about a week ago saw the two in your video as well and figured I should probably go with the Maddox set the look to be much higher quality and have everything needed and then some. A review of the Maddox would be greatly appreciated considering there's not a single video out there covering it that I can find
Yes. I picked up a power bleeder for my Porsche and would love to see how the maddox one does.
@@petescarport it's still a manual hand pump variety but comes with a million different doctors as well as plates and screw on cap so you can simultaneously fill your Reservoir as well as serving as a vacuum line tester with pressure setting
Oh wow that sounds amazing. The power bleeder I bought is a top screw hand pump too but you can't add fluid without taking off top. Makes it a long process and the screw cap only fits my model and others with same size top
The Harbor freight bleeder was dead out of the package for me. Swapped it for the MityVac and success.
Bought a mighty vac a few years ago and it didn't last long. I was very disappointed. Recently purchased a Pittsburgh unit but Haven't tried it yet.
Be careful some hf parts are not available for these system bleeders. , will have to the whole
I wish you had tested the maximum vacuum pressure that each can pull.
From my test the mighty vac usually goes just above 20 and the pittsburgh below 20.
@@petescarport did you take the cap off the master.?. didnt see this or you re fill it..plus,a guy says m/v is re buildable.other not. but,for the average joe,the cheap one is worth it.
Here's the most important thing, which product has parts to rebuild the kit if something breaks? Mityvac wins because it is rebuildable!
Which is great if they have the part which in my case they didn’t, a 20 cent seal, I now need to buy a new one
Webstar22, Thanks, that is really nice to know!!!
The less priced one (Pittsburg) seemed to suck all or most of the air out first. The more expensive (Mity Vac) one can have more fluid than air. Pittsburg did the burping and Mity Vac got the solids.
The main issue with the harbor freight one is that the cap on the reservoir doesn’t seal after some use. Making it useless.
just a note, some cars need to be running to get fluid out..i have had a few cars like this and it does make a difference
Good enough for clutch ?
I tried them several times but it's tuff to build up enough pressure. I was successful on one car. Other cars didn't have good pedal pressure after so had to bleed again
The pump creates a vacuum in the reservoir. The only thing in the tubing between the pump and the reservoir is AIR. Keep the reservoir upright at all times to avoid getting brake fluid in the pump which will destroy it.
I used the Pittsburg bleeding tool and it worked on one wheel. Then the piece of junk would no longer hold vacuum. I wouldn't bother with that tool if you gave it to me. One good thing about the Pittsburg tool. It's so cheap that it isn't worth the gas and the time to take it back to the store.
I had same problem found gauge wasn't screwed I all the way
If you buy "cheap", you buy twice!
Amen!
no , that is not always the case.
It is true and ... often ... is a good rule for life ... or used to be.
As a rule: For every rule there is an exception (including this one).
---- » The exception of course is if you are only going to be using something once + then either throwing it away or packing it away with all the other "somethings which will never be used again."
But, which costs more in the real world?
----- » Ask a hoarder how it works out when you save everything which you might possibly need again in ten years ... or more.
After 10 years you can't find it because it's buried under mountains of "other stuff"
= sometimes buying the best
+ saving it forever unused is actually worse than "buy cheap
= buy the better-quality TWICE!
... because you can't always spend hundreds of hours ... over the decades ... hunting and moving things around and re-prioritizing the tool shed and on and on.
If it is really cheap
+ if it works exactly ONE TIME
+ and-if you will only use it ONE TIME
= then buy the cheaper stuff and throw it away
... and if/when you ever need one again = then this one time you may need to buy it again.
Frankly, if it's something I cannot imagine EVER needing again
= then buying the best and never using it again is actually the most UN-Wise thing to do.
Do you see?
Welcome to the modern-day world of CHINA-First.
... or if you want to follow the real rules, tell me what you think of The Blessing ... » cuffway.com/the_blessing.htm
Test grey one first; you will get different results.keep add more pressure to 15.
If you already graded on accessory quality, why would you give both pumps the same score on holding pressure even though the Mityvac actually wasn't holding pressure (but it had nicer accessory!!!). If the pump wasn't holding pressure but is leaking slowly, it should get a 2 at best. That slow leak is enough to make me not even consider that pump now.
The Pittsburgh got less liquid as a result of being used with more air in the line.
If you disassembled the "Mityvac" would anyone be surprised if there was a Pittsburgh break-bleeder under the fancy plastic.
Though subjective, I think the score was close enough to not warrant the 40% higher price of the MyVac.
Thanks
The line should be going straight up, not down from the bleeder screw.
Not to be That guy I really do but you. In fact neglected somehow to show the assembly of the parts. I'm assuming that you think that as viewing it, we will automatically know we're all 4 of these hoses go. Because even looking at the instruction manual it's showing making it look like I have an extra hose.
I'm assuming that that is possibly for the other side is the same thing with my o. Ring I have 2 of them. So I guess you have to use the second one on the second side..
These are things that could have been mentioned. Because this is the exact tool that we reviewing
bad testing, But it was entertaining at least I know which one to get Pittsburgh...
🚧i just got a pittsburg last week and tried on rebuilt calipers on a 85 toyota supra - while appling 5 inch of vacuum - and two days after the whole thing went foggy - 😵👎
You had me at 85 Supra
Hey👏👏 for owning the mistake, shit happens.
chris fix is that your voice?
The problem with using any of these vacuum pumps is that many times you get air leaking in from around the bleeder screw threads. If that happens, these pumps are virtually useless.
You grease around the bleeder, it will not leak, these are definitely not worthless, and have been used professionally by many for years…..just saying
Put some grease around the threads of the bleeder screw
Do you need is a little grease
If that happens anything you try won't work ....so the problem in that case is the bleeder nipple treads nothing to do with brake bleeding
The vaccum pump is pulling fluid from the bleeder so how would air get past the fluid to get in? When the vaccum drops off close the bleeder and pump it back up and crack the bleeder. Some guys are using teflon tape wrapped around 4times on the bleeder to stop air from getting in with success. I guess whatever works.
thanks
Did you also buy it at harbor ? Where did you get the better bleeder from
Both from harbor freight
7-7:21 testing Pit 4 pumps 10 lbs MV it was like 10 and was 9 lbs for the average Joe who doesnt do it often Im going Pit
They only work for a couple of times. I viewed the comments, basically junk.
This stings a bit...just bought the Pittsburg. I do plan to try to bleed the hell out of my brakes then dot3 the crap out of them.
i have both, you can just junk the harbor freight. all you have to do is connect both to vacum guage and you can see mityvac pulls twice as much.
My Pittsburgh was shot in a few months
Give the metal HF any day of the plastic Mityvac.
I don't think you gave a fair comparison it appears the pittsburgh was run first and then mighty vac you should have ran again and reversed the order.
In all honesty I have used both tons of times and the Pittsburgh is very poor quality compared to mity vac
Doing that makes zero difference