Joe a couple of observations. Those short hose sections go inside the reservoir on the "to pump" side. You will see an internal nipple for that purpose. What this does is keep the line coming in submerged to help air not flow backward and also it keeps you from sucking fluid into the vacuum pump. Second, the vacuum pump has a rubber check valve in that portion where the gage is. You were not developing pressure because that valve was likely fouled in some way. You can unscrew the front half of the pump by holding the gage and unscrewing the handle side. You will see a rubber umbrella valve on the gage side. (your Pittsburg one has an improved design with a metal pin in the center to help seal, your old one has an all rubber valve that will eventually wear out) . . . Pull that valve out and clean it up and make sure it moves back and forth freely. Make sure it's clean and dry and reassemble. It should work now. if a spec of dirt is in there it will not create a vacuum and this is true of even a high end kit. If it really is that Schrader valve, it is the same as one from a bicycle or car tire and can just be changed out (or return it if you don't want to go through all that . . but eventually you will need to clean/maintain them no matter what type you get. . especially if you omit the inner reservoir hose like that) . . . Next these kits pull a lot of vacuum and most of the air in the line is coming past the threads of the bleeder screw. The vacuum is still sufficient to keep air from flowing into the caliper. A lot of first time users are expecting solid liquid to come though the hose but that's not how these work. You will see air bubbles even when you have solid fluid in your system just give it more time if the pedal is soft. In light of this I would avoid cracking the bleeder valve open with no vacuum present. Develop the vacuum first then open the valve. Keep an eye on it so it does not go below 5 in mg and keep the reservoir topped off. On front brakes I find these vacuum bleeders work like magic if your brake hoses are routed in series (one hose down from the master cylinder and a jumper from one caliper to the other). If you start at the far caliper it bleeds the whole thing very quickly. Still go to the near caliper but you will see that will pretty much be done when you start. If you have issues and just cant get it, keep reading. And the last issue. If you have exhausted your fluid and time with no improvement the air can hide where this unit cant get to. Notice how your hose curves up higher than the master cylinder? This is where air can get trapped. Sometime you need to either put the bike on an incline or remove the master cylinder so it is the highest spot in the system. A couple of pumps and the master cylinder can often clear the air out itself. . .. . On a front master cylinder sometimes air can hide inside the cylinder (especially if you have clip on handlebars because the bleed orifice is now below the hose connection). Most cylinders will self bleed. If you have this type, remove the master cylinder and point the lever straight up and give it a few pumps. That angle will let the air back into the reservoir (usually just takes a couple of pumps to see a dramatic difference.) Again only do this if everything else is exhausted because air can hide in many spots. Hope this helps someone trying to save money.
That’s to bad Joe, I have the bleeder system from harbor freight that uses an air compressor, I’ve used it on brakes and sucking fluid out of a differential, it’s not amazing but it does work, thanks Joe 👍👍
hey joe, im not sure if you figured it out yet. i have one of these too and if you take the plastic circle in between the handles out it works, i guess its some sort of spacer so it isnt damaged in the box, dumb but mine actually pumps down now.
Instead of gravity bleed or vacuum bleed, have you tried feeding fluid through bleed screw while lever is compressed and cap is off master cylinder? (For rear brake make sure brake peg is compressed) in my opinion best and fastest way to get the job done!
Joe a couple of observations. Those short hose sections go inside the reservoir on the "to pump" side. You will see an internal nipple for that purpose. What this does is keep the line coming in submerged to help air not flow backward and also it keeps you from sucking fluid into the vacuum pump. Second, the vacuum pump has a rubber check valve in that portion where the gage is. You were not developing pressure because that valve was likely fouled in some way. You can unscrew the front half of the pump by holding the gage and unscrewing the handle side. You will see a rubber umbrella valve on the gage side. (your Pittsburg one has an improved design with a metal pin in the center to help seal, your old one has an all rubber valve that will eventually wear out) . . . Pull that valve out and clean it up and make sure it moves back and forth freely. Make sure it's clean and dry and reassemble. It should work now. if a spec of dirt is in there it will not create a vacuum and this is true of even a high end kit. If it really is that Schrader valve, it is the same as one from a bicycle or car tire and can just be changed out (or return it if you don't want to go through all that . . but eventually you will need to clean/maintain them no matter what type you get. . especially if you omit the inner reservoir hose like that) . . .
Next these kits pull a lot of vacuum and most of the air in the line is coming past the threads of the bleeder screw. The vacuum is still sufficient to keep air from flowing into the caliper. A lot of first time users are expecting solid liquid to come though the hose but that's not how these work. You will see air bubbles even when you have solid fluid in your system just give it more time if the pedal is soft. In light of this I would avoid cracking the bleeder valve open with no vacuum present. Develop the vacuum first then open the valve. Keep an eye on it so it does not go below 5 in mg and keep the reservoir topped off.
On front brakes I find these vacuum bleeders work like magic if your brake hoses are routed in series (one hose down from the master cylinder and a jumper from one caliper to the other). If you start at the far caliper it bleeds the whole thing very quickly. Still go to the near caliper but you will see that will pretty much be done when you start. If you have issues and just cant get it, keep reading.
And the last issue. If you have exhausted your fluid and time with no improvement the air can hide where this unit cant get to. Notice how your hose curves up higher than the master cylinder? This is where air can get trapped. Sometime you need to either put the bike on an incline or remove the master cylinder so it is the highest spot in the system. A couple of pumps and the master cylinder can often clear the air out itself. . .. . On a front master cylinder sometimes air can hide inside the cylinder (especially if you have clip on handlebars because the bleed orifice is now below the hose connection). Most cylinders will self bleed. If you have this type, remove the master cylinder and point the lever straight up and give it a few pumps. That angle will let the air back into the reservoir (usually just takes a couple of pumps to see a dramatic difference.) Again only do this if everything else is exhausted because air can hide in many spots.
Hope this helps someone trying to save money.
Great tips. thanks so much.
This answered soany questions from when I tried (and failed) using this pump. Thank you so much for writing this out!
Thanks for such detail in your videos!
That’s to bad Joe, I have the bleeder system from harbor freight that uses an air compressor, I’ve used it on brakes and sucking fluid out of a differential, it’s not amazing but it does work, thanks Joe 👍👍
If you open the bleeder with full vacuum, you get a surge which helps move air further
Thanks for the tip
hey joe, im not sure if you figured it out yet. i have one of these too and if you take the plastic circle in between the handles out it works, i guess its some sort of spacer so it isnt damaged in the box, dumb but mine actually pumps down now.
Thanks for the tip, I will check it out.
Yes, I had done that, I purchased another one and it worked just fine.
Instead of gravity bleed or vacuum bleed, have you tried feeding fluid through bleed screw while lever is compressed and cap is off master cylinder? (For rear brake make sure brake peg is compressed) in my opinion best and fastest way to get the job done!
Yes, that is the way I finished up after vacuum bleeding, thanks
I just bought one today same from hf. And is defective out of the box too
Yes quality control is very bad from the far east. Thanks for the feedback 😃
Take it back for a exchange....duh
Works great when you read the instructions lol
I purchased another one and it worked fine, The one I purchased was defective, Do not make assumptions.
mine worked amazzzzzzzzzing once I figured out how to use it ..simple...............
Thanks for the feedback
Nothing from harbor freight is worth a kcuf
Somethings, but not many items
I've had good success with everything I've gotten from harbor freight