@@winsingaable Glad I could help. It happened to me and I tried to search for a video like mine but there were none. So I made one for the safety of us all.
SO, my SCREW that holds the brake handle to the master cylinder. I had it way too TIGHT, SCREW DOESN'T NEED TO BE TIGHT, just a little loose. Another good find.
Hi thanks for this nice video. Nice advice. I want to add something happened to me. My rear tire blocked on a new brennelli TRK 502 X. I left cooled down for a while then everything works fine. From my analysis of what I have done before I figured out that I forget my foot on the rear brake while driving. I was stupid enough to do that and wise enough to figure that out. Good ride!
I learned some stuff here. I put loads of grease on the tips, just gunk it right up in there, but I won't anymore. Might be why my rear is always dragging. PS: braided steel isn't there to be tough or provide longevity (this is just a bonus), it's there to stop the rubber hose expanding when you apply pressure. They are for better braking performance. I have so many problems with brakes, despite low mileage and I just learned that where I ride economically, with minimal brake use so save my pads and petrol, it's actually what causes them to seize up, because they never get heat in them to allow them to be worked. Going to have to change my riding habits and end the false economy. I just freed up some sticking pistons with brake cleaner/a boot lace and brushing Dot4 round them, but somehow after putting it back together the wheel is binding even more than it was
@@jamesgaszak3685 I sprayed lots of silicone grease round them and used a speed clamp to keep working them in and pumping out. I also tried brake cleaner and Dot4 but they just keep binding against the rotor and are very hard to push in with both thumbs and all my strength. Starting to think something else is wrong, maybe with the master cylinder? Unfortunately I'm no expert when it comes to brakes
@@ArcanePath360you should try a different company for new gaskets cause if you have old gaskets and the air hits them for the first time in 7 to 10 years of them being in a locked air tight system they might get super hard really quick. So get new gaskets in a rebuild kit. If you have spokes make sure they are trued properly. And lastly get a whole new brake caliper. They usually are pretty cheap and then you can determine if it was the caliper or if the forks are bent or the mounting plate for the calipers got bent somehow.
@@jamesgaszak3685 Thanks. My bike is 10 years old with 30k on the clock. Not sure how long the average seals are supposed to last. I've never taken the brakes fully apart as it's beyond my comfort level, just exposed the pistons and cleaned them. I noticed a little corrosion on some pistons, but strangely those aren't the ones that are sticking. I'm going to bleed them tomorrow, perhaps air got into the system. It isn't the forks because it's the rear one giving me the most trouble. The pads had worn down to nothing, despite not even using them. Luckily I had some old pads that weren't completely worn that I could put in. I think too much of the piston was exposed to the elements while driving in crap weather.
Have you ever drilled out the return hole to make it a bit bigger? I got the master cylinder building pressure and ive cleaned it best I can but when I try to compress the piston nothing happens unless I crack the bleeder or the line coming from the mc. Would it mess anything up to drill it a bit bigger? Rear brakes locking on an sv650
@@samake1424 get a new master cylinder. I believe if you drill the return hole bigger it might damage the rubber plunger. More than likely it's bad fluid corrosion or gunk on the inside blocking it. Or your lever is not allowing it to return properly to open the hole which is why you never want to use aftermarket levers only OEM levers. Determine how old the brake lines are if they are past 8 to 10 years replace them. It's your safety on the line.
Yup those after market levers are not machined properly and can cause build up of pressure in the Master cylinder. Switch out the shorty to an OEM lever and you should be back in business.
can a dirty brake fluid cause it to lock? heres what i did clean out all brake calipers rotors pistons etc.. adjusted the pushrod. my brakes were fine! not until it gets hot brakes will lock up and i have to park it for few minutes brakes will unlock again when it gets cold. could it be contaminated fluid? note: it would only lock up when it gets hot
@@Taylor-jq6rl yes dirty fluid can lock your brakes. Once oxygen or water gets in the brake fluid that causes pressure when it boils from heat. Just like a pressure cooker the fluid pushes against the pistons causing them to lock up. You have to flush the lines but I would rather you replace the lines entirely because that will ensure there isn't any moisture getting in from dry rotted old lines. Brake lines are not expensive and it will be more safe and reliable.
See my front wheel in dragging on the front brakes I've replaced the pads before and never had this issue but I replace the tire and after I realized the front wheel isn't really spinning free when I take off the calipers it spins free
@@Pubbernickel8 sometimes new brake pads need to wear down a bit and are too tight when they are new. Think if you added any mods to the bike on the brake system.
Thank you James! This really helps with my 2015 Street Glide. Hot day, front brakes started clamping on their own... like moisture buildup, needing a flush?
@@YoursInYeshua more than likely needs a flush but if I were you I would upgrade your lines to steel braided as well. Sometimes the old lines won't flush out the crap and you refill them just to find out there was a pinhole that was letting air in causing moisture build up. You and your life is worth replacing the lines. Bad brakes are the number 1 killer in bike accidents.
@@jamesgaszak3685 Another thing is I just installed new a handlebar and had to solder-extend the wiring and reroute the hydraulic cables, as they are at their length limit with a 14" bar. They do allow the bars to go fully turn though. Could a any of that or a potential miswire cause the front brakes to auto clamp out of the blue? And, could the ABS be doing the auto front braking even though it doesn't pulsate and the ABS light doesnt come, when I know it can light up? A dealer has the bike now, but I wanted to steer them as best as possible and you know your stuff.
@@YoursInYeshua a dealer should figure it out quick. If you routed the cables good and it isn't pinching then you should be good but since I can't physically see the bike I can't know for sure. If the brakes were working fine before the bar install that might be an indication that something is not hooked up properly though. As for the abs there could be a number of problems which again I couldn't know for sure unless I was there to inspect it.
Hey, this could be really helpful for big group of people that now owns a Dominar (Bajaj version of the Duke 390). The bike is mostly great, but the rear brake gives a lot of truble. I own one of them, and I've already changed the fluid and cleaned the single piston the bike has on the rear, but it keeps heating up, even on very short rides. The weather does not help, its very hot, but i still have a few this to tey before giving up and sending it to the mechanic. I'll keep you updated. If we can figure out what the problem is, it would be a huge help for all Dominar owners here in Argentina!
I would bet the piston is over heating. I would get steel braided lines with fresh fluid and an upgraded rear brake caliper. See if brembo makes a rear caliper for your bike. Either way keep me posted.
@@jamesgaszak3685 Ok, 2am here, kinda long trip tomorrow (800km) The brake fluid level just past over the max, took out some, left it right in between min and max, also manually separated the brake pads from the disk, I'll make sure not to use the rear brake tomorrow but if it starts to drag my last resort will be to just remove the pads and fix the problem next week. Will see tomorrow 🙈
first ride home, front brake locked up, I bet it was the old fluid. Totally cleaned all brake system and. Rode 1000 miles and rear brake locked up. I have a cheap Ebay brake lever. Maybe that. Because I tore rear brake apart, everything looks great. My other bike, I have ridden 5000 with cheap Ebay Levers. So that's fine.,My problem might be I filled the resievors too much. Has air space. I also cleaned the vent lines in the metal cap. Good video, I can fix it all myself.
I would say it's the eBay lever that's the problem. If the lever isn't machined right it won't release the air valve in the master cylinder properly and it will cause a build up of air pressure and lock your brakes up.
@@luluwhite261 you have to adjust each marker line on each side of the axle. Put it up on a stand and while in neutral spin it to see if you have a cant and watch the chain as well
Not if pressure is built up in the lines from heat, moisture being in the brake fluid or your master cylinder release valve is clogged. You need to open the bleeder valve or untighten the banjo bolt to release pressure so you can move your bike cause the tires will be locked up.
Rear brake stopped working, pedal went limp while riding and over use of the rear brake. It was piping hot to the touch. I rebuilt the caliper, used a kit with new seals and pistons. but putting back on the bike, Riding for a couple of hours, and it still get s hot to the touch after my ride. I noticed my new brake pads, that the one closest to the pistons is wearing down faster than the other, and that's just 1 ride. The wheel spins but I can clearly hear the brake pads touching it. this is a 2002 triumph bonneville america. It's been riding awesome until recently. I wonder, if 2 years ago, when I replaced the tire, maybe I never put the wheel on right, but that was like 10,000 miels ago... I figure I would have noticed sooner. Also, trying to get that brake pad holder out during this rebuild was a bear, I had to pry it out. Maybe I bent it?
@@sigmapifsc at this point I would check your mounting holes for the brake caliper to make sure you didn't jump the threads when putting the bolts in. Then check to make sure you didn't bend it. After that I would replace the caliper if you rebuilt it and it isn't working properly. But before that check to make sure your tire is balanced and spinning true. Sometimes if it's canted it will cause a pull on the brake pad on one side or another.
I can’t laugh because that actually happened to me. On a ride home I felt my bike start to drag and pulled over. I discovered the brakes had locked. I couldn’t budge the bike an inch. While trying to figure out what to do I got something to drink from a nearby store. It was hot out. After my soft drink I checked the bike. I could now roll it. The brakes cooled enough??? Once I got it home I had the rear brakes bled and I heard a puff of air come out of the line. That’s why I searched these vids to find out who else had a similar experience.
@jamesgaszak3685 i have checked the holes in MC & this problem began in stock configured. since then I replaced mc seals, calip seals new st br lines & dot4 still having this issue
ok I might need a few responses from you. my neighbor's husband passed and she sold me a k4 gsxr 1000 for 700. bike didn’t turn over, should I start with battery? or what would be your suggested starting point?
@@culturdcustom jump the battery to get it to start. If the battery is older than 2 years it needs to be replaced. If the gas is older than 6 months than that needs to get dumped and replaced. If it isn't cranking jump the starter solenoid to see if that is bad. Then if the starter is turning over but it won't fire then test your spark plugs for spark and that they are not fouled out. That should keep you busy for a day or two.
@@jamesgaszak3685I didn’t forget about you, how are you? heres an update on me. I got battery, rectifier, and all electrics running perfect. I changed sparks, pistons looked good and now I need to change fluids and do brakes. so my question now is since the bike is older and when I got it both brake reservoirs were dirt dry and looked like acid from an exposed battery. of course I replace the reservoirs but will the brakes work if I just bleed them? also the front brake has absolutely no pressure
@@culturdcustom honestly I would get different brake calipers off eBay because to buy a rebuild kit plus new pots it will almost be the same price as buying a working used caliper. More than likely there is rusted water inside the calipers and that's a pain to disassemble to clean and blow out. I would get new brake lines, and possibly new master cylinders unless you are going to rebuild those which might be time consuming to a newbie. When you have clean working parts on a brake system it will bleed so much faster and easier. When you rebuild it's kind of a shot in the dark. It may work but why go through the headache when buying a used working part is only 15 maybe 25 bucks more.
I was just stranded on the side of the road because my brakes were locked up due to aftermarket brake levera, you saved me
@@winsingaable Glad I could help. It happened to me and I tried to search for a video like mine but there were none. So I made one for the safety of us all.
My master piston was not returning to the little port. Aftermarket levers. I can't believe I did not see that. Thank you very much Sir.
@@JimBliss-l7u glad to help!
8:27 - i normally use OEM acronym for Orig Equipment Manuf.
SO, my SCREW that holds the brake handle to the master cylinder. I had it way too TIGHT, SCREW DOESN'T NEED TO BE TIGHT, just a little loose. Another good find.
Good to know. Thanks.
Hi thanks for this nice video. Nice advice. I want to add something happened to me. My rear tire blocked on a new brennelli TRK 502 X. I left cooled down for a while then everything works fine. From my analysis of what I have done before I figured out that I forget my foot on the rear brake while driving. I was stupid enough to do that and wise enough to figure that out. Good ride!
thanks for the helpful video. not overfilling the master cylinder reservoir to allow the calipers to retract is an excellent point. cheers
Yeah it's that or aftermarket levers sometimes aren't machined right and also won't let the master cylinder air to retract.
out of all videos watch you the one I needed to fix my issue
@@atlefra yeah that's the whole reason I made the video because people needed this information. Glad it helped. Subscribe for more content.👍🏼
I learned some stuff here. I put loads of grease on the tips, just gunk it right up in there, but I won't anymore. Might be why my rear is always dragging.
PS: braided steel isn't there to be tough or provide longevity (this is just a bonus), it's there to stop the rubber hose expanding when you apply pressure. They are for better braking performance.
I have so many problems with brakes, despite low mileage and I just learned that where I ride economically, with minimal brake use so save my pads and petrol, it's actually what causes them to seize up, because they never get heat in them to allow them to be worked. Going to have to change my riding habits and end the false economy.
I just freed up some sticking pistons with brake cleaner/a boot lace and brushing Dot4 round them, but somehow after putting it back together the wheel is binding even more than it was
@@ArcanePath360 yeah those pistons are super tight. I use a touch of lithium grease when I rebuild them.
@@jamesgaszak3685 I sprayed lots of silicone grease round them and used a speed clamp to keep working them in and pumping out. I also tried brake cleaner and Dot4 but they just keep binding against the rotor and are very hard to push in with both thumbs and all my strength. Starting to think something else is wrong, maybe with the master cylinder? Unfortunately I'm no expert when it comes to brakes
@@ArcanePath360you should try a different company for new gaskets cause if you have old gaskets and the air hits them for the first time in 7 to 10 years of them being in a locked air tight system they might get super hard really quick. So get new gaskets in a rebuild kit. If you have spokes make sure they are trued properly. And lastly get a whole new brake caliper. They usually are pretty cheap and then you can determine if it was the caliper or if the forks are bent or the mounting plate for the calipers got bent somehow.
@@jamesgaszak3685 Thanks. My bike is 10 years old with 30k on the clock. Not sure how long the average seals are supposed to last. I've never taken the brakes fully apart as it's beyond my comfort level, just exposed the pistons and cleaned them. I noticed a little corrosion on some pistons, but strangely those aren't the ones that are sticking. I'm going to bleed them tomorrow, perhaps air got into the system. It isn't the forks because it's the rear one giving me the most trouble. The pads had worn down to nothing, despite not even using them. Luckily I had some old pads that weren't completely worn that I could put in. I think too much of the piston was exposed to the elements while driving in crap weather.
Have you ever drilled out the return hole to make it a bit bigger? I got the master cylinder building pressure and ive cleaned it best I can but when I try to compress the piston nothing happens unless I crack the bleeder or the line coming from the mc. Would it mess anything up to drill it a bit bigger? Rear brakes locking on an sv650
@@samake1424 get a new master cylinder. I believe if you drill the return hole bigger it might damage the rubber plunger. More than likely it's bad fluid corrosion or gunk on the inside blocking it. Or your lever is not allowing it to return properly to open the hole which is why you never want to use aftermarket levers only OEM levers. Determine how old the brake lines are if they are past 8 to 10 years replace them. It's your safety on the line.
OK, too full(RES) for summer riding, Fluid heated up and I took pff the Aftermarket shorty Lever. Thank you.
Yup those after market levers are not machined properly and can cause build up of pressure in the Master cylinder. Switch out the shorty to an OEM lever and you should be back in business.
can a dirty brake fluid cause it to lock? heres what i did
clean out all brake calipers rotors pistons etc.. adjusted the pushrod. my brakes were fine! not until it gets hot brakes will lock up and i have to park it for few minutes brakes will unlock again when it gets cold. could it be contaminated fluid?
note: it would only lock up when it gets hot
@@Taylor-jq6rl yes dirty fluid can lock your brakes. Once oxygen or water gets in the brake fluid that causes pressure when it boils from heat. Just like a pressure cooker the fluid pushes against the pistons causing them to lock up. You have to flush the lines but I would rather you replace the lines entirely because that will ensure there isn't any moisture getting in from dry rotted old lines. Brake lines are not expensive and it will be more safe and reliable.
See my front wheel in dragging on the front brakes I've replaced the pads before and never had this issue but I replace the tire and after I realized the front wheel isn't really spinning free when I take off the calipers it spins free
@@Pubbernickel8 your rims might be bent. Or your forks are bent
@@jamesgaszak3685 rims are fine it's possible the forks are
@@Pubbernickel8 sometimes new brake pads need to wear down a bit and are too tight when they are new. Think if you added any mods to the bike on the brake system.
Thank you James! This really helps with my 2015 Street Glide. Hot day, front brakes started clamping on their own... like moisture buildup, needing a flush?
@@YoursInYeshua more than likely needs a flush but if I were you I would upgrade your lines to steel braided as well. Sometimes the old lines won't flush out the crap and you refill them just to find out there was a pinhole that was letting air in causing moisture build up. You and your life is worth replacing the lines. Bad brakes are the number 1 killer in bike accidents.
@@jamesgaszak3685 Thank you man!!
@@jamesgaszak3685 Another thing is I just installed new a handlebar and had to solder-extend the wiring and reroute the hydraulic cables, as they are at their length limit with a 14" bar. They do allow the bars to go fully turn though. Could a any of that or a potential miswire cause the front brakes to auto clamp out of the blue? And, could the ABS be doing the auto front braking even though it doesn't pulsate and the ABS light doesnt come, when I know it can light up? A dealer has the bike now, but I wanted to steer them as best as possible and you know your stuff.
@@YoursInYeshua a dealer should figure it out quick. If you routed the cables good and it isn't pinching then you should be good but since I can't physically see the bike I can't know for sure. If the brakes were working fine before the bar install that might be an indication that something is not hooked up properly though. As for the abs there could be a number of problems which again I couldn't know for sure unless I was there to inspect it.
Excellent explanation , kudos
@@TahaABOUABID91 I'm just giving back to a great community.
Excelent summary, thank you.
@@mario_on_e-odin2.0 thanks man.
Hey, this could be really helpful for big group of people that now owns a Dominar (Bajaj version of the Duke 390). The bike is mostly great, but the rear brake gives a lot of truble. I own one of them, and I've already changed the fluid and cleaned the single piston the bike has on the rear, but it keeps heating up, even on very short rides. The weather does not help, its very hot, but i still have a few this to tey before giving up and sending it to the mechanic. I'll keep you updated. If we can figure out what the problem is, it would be a huge help for all Dominar owners here in Argentina!
I would bet the piston is over heating. I would get steel braided lines with fresh fluid and an upgraded rear brake caliper. See if brembo makes a rear caliper for your bike. Either way keep me posted.
@@jamesgaszak3685 Ok, 2am here, kinda long trip tomorrow (800km) The brake fluid level just past over the max, took out some, left it right in between min and max, also manually separated the brake pads from the disk, I'll make sure not to use the rear brake tomorrow but if it starts to drag my last resort will be to just remove the pads and fix the problem next week. Will see tomorrow 🙈
Is this advice standard for all bikes. Great advice. Thank you
Yes this advice works on all bikes.
Thanks for the tips brother!
No problem. Glad I could help👍🏼
Nice work , VERY useful video...
@@garyspracticalworkshop357 thanks man. 👍🏼
first ride home, front brake locked up, I bet it was the old fluid. Totally cleaned all brake system and. Rode 1000 miles and rear brake locked up. I have a cheap Ebay brake lever. Maybe that. Because I tore rear brake apart, everything looks great. My other bike, I have ridden 5000 with cheap Ebay Levers. So that's fine.,My problem might be I filled the resievors too much.
Has air space. I also cleaned the vent lines in the metal cap. Good video, I can fix it all myself.
I would say it's the eBay lever that's the problem. If the lever isn't machined right it won't release the air valve in the master cylinder properly and it will cause a build up of air pressure and lock your brakes up.
00r1 think my wheel is canted any other way to tell ?my chain looks straight
@@luluwhite261 you have to adjust each marker line on each side of the axle. Put it up on a stand and while in neutral spin it to see if you have a cant and watch the chain as well
Rear brake locked up from front (RES) too full because Honda ST1300 have linked brakes, Front handle controls some rear braking.
That's good information to know. Thanks
07 zx10 front brakes keep lockin up at random
do you have an after market lever? Is your fluid old. More than likely your brake lines are old and dry rotted.
I have the same bike and same issue. Just did different calipers and im going to clean my master cylinder
so do you have any solution how do i clean the pin boot? because i put too much grease on it and it got like vacuum like you said
Use brake cleaner and a q tip to clean it out real good
@@jamesgaszak3685 ah okay, thanks for the answer!
Thanks
No problem man.👍
maybe a dumb question.. if the motorcycle brakes lock up and you release the lever or foot pedal, will the brakes unlock ?
Not if pressure is built up in the lines from heat, moisture being in the brake fluid or your master cylinder release valve is clogged. You need to open the bleeder valve or untighten the banjo bolt to release pressure so you can move your bike cause the tires will be locked up.
@@jamesgaszak3685 thank you for the reply.. I didn’t know that could happen :) your videos are very informative
@@breadgarlichouse2265 thanks. I'm just here to help 👍🏼
Rear brake stopped working, pedal went limp while riding and over use of the rear brake. It was piping hot to the touch. I rebuilt the caliper, used a kit with new seals and pistons. but putting back on the bike, Riding for a couple of hours, and it still get s hot to the touch after my ride. I noticed my new brake pads, that the one closest to the pistons is wearing down faster than the other, and that's just 1 ride. The wheel spins but I can clearly hear the brake pads touching it. this is a 2002 triumph bonneville america. It's been riding awesome until recently. I wonder, if 2 years ago, when I replaced the tire, maybe I never put the wheel on right, but that was like 10,000 miels ago... I figure I would have noticed sooner. Also, trying to get that brake pad holder out during this rebuild was a bear, I had to pry it out. Maybe I bent it?
@@sigmapifsc at this point I would check your mounting holes for the brake caliper to make sure you didn't jump the threads when putting the bolts in. Then check to make sure you didn't bend it. After that I would replace the caliper if you rebuilt it and it isn't working properly. But before that check to make sure your tire is balanced and spinning true. Sometimes if it's canted it will cause a pull on the brake pad on one side or another.
@@jamesgaszak3685 Ok, I'm away this week, but as soon as I get home, I'm going to check these suggestions. Thanks James Much appreciated!
Bro you lost me at the beginning when you said breaks might locking up because there’s air in the fluid 😂😂😂 On a hot day 😂
I can’t laugh because that actually happened to me. On a ride home I felt my bike start to drag and pulled over. I discovered the brakes had locked. I couldn’t budge the bike an inch. While trying to figure out what to do I got something to drink from a nearby store. It was hot out. After my soft drink I checked the bike. I could now roll it. The brakes cooled enough??? Once I got it home I had the rear brakes bled and I heard a puff of air come out of the line. That’s why I searched these vids to find out who else had a similar experience.
Thanks man great job
Glad to give a video to help anyone in need.
Replaced caliper seals & rebuild master cylinder still getting locked up
Did you check the release holes in the master cylinder? Do you have any aftermarket parts?
@jamesgaszak3685 i have checked the holes in MC & this problem began in stock configured. since then I replaced mc seals, calip seals new st br lines & dot4 still having this issue
@jamesgaszak3685 this happens 1 minute to 5 minutes while on first ride of the day basically as soon as the brakes are used & warmed up.
@@allday3433 did you change the brake lines?
@@allday3433 which brakes are locking up front or rear?
FYI ... OEM is Original Equipment Manufacture ... not Original Engine Manufacture
ok I might need a few responses from you. my neighbor's husband passed and she sold me a k4 gsxr 1000 for 700. bike didn’t turn over, should I start with battery? or what would be your suggested starting point?
@@culturdcustom jump the battery to get it to start. If the battery is older than 2 years it needs to be replaced. If the gas is older than 6 months than that needs to get dumped and replaced. If it isn't cranking jump the starter solenoid to see if that is bad. Then if the starter is turning over but it won't fire then test your spark plugs for spark and that they are not fouled out. That should keep you busy for a day or two.
@@jamesgaszak3685 I appreciate this more than you imagine. I'll be back here in a few days for step 2 lol
@@culturdcustom sounds good
@@jamesgaszak3685I didn’t forget about you, how are you? heres an update on me. I got battery, rectifier, and all electrics running perfect. I changed sparks, pistons looked good and now I need to change fluids and do brakes. so my question now is since the bike is older and when I got it both brake reservoirs were dirt dry and looked like acid from an exposed battery. of course I replace the reservoirs but will the brakes work if I just bleed them? also the front brake has absolutely no pressure
@@culturdcustom honestly I would get different brake calipers off eBay because to buy a rebuild kit plus new pots it will almost be the same price as buying a working used caliper. More than likely there is rusted water inside the calipers and that's a pain to disassemble to clean and blow out. I would get new brake lines, and possibly new master cylinders unless you are going to rebuild those which might be time consuming to a newbie. When you have clean working parts on a brake system it will bleed so much faster and easier. When you rebuild it's kind of a shot in the dark. It may work but why go through the headache when buying a used working part is only 15 maybe 25 bucks more.
Thanks bro.
Yeah man. I hope you got some help from the video.👍🏼
Helpful
Glad to help. I don't know why there are not more videos like this one.
No1 reason is not fluid its a dirty caliper either the slide pins are dirty or the pistons or both.
Thanks man
No problem. Hope the video helped.
Another reason is the return port is clogged
@@jaredbullock3082 yup that happens as well.👍🏼
Thanks
@@kimoneymaker888 glad to help