How To Flush and Bleed Your Motorcycle Brakes | The Shop Manual
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- How To Flush and Bleed Your Motorcycle Brakes | The Shop Manual
Read more about brake servicing on Common Tread: rvz.la/3l6hdX0
If you've got spongy brakes, odds are that lever can be firmed up by bleeding the brake system. Plus, replacing your brake fluid is regular maintenance that oughta be done every two years. So in this episode of The Shop Manual, we’ll show you how to do it.
Read more about brake servicing on Common Tread: rvz.la/38goTSL
Excellent video and tips. Thanks a lot.
DOT 5.1 is better. Doesn't damage the paint and compatible with DOT 4. Also, people should use CNC adjustable levers for the clutch and brake. Brembo RCS19 brake lever is the best upgrade over stock.
@A A go back to your garage and Google answers about what's best lol
Dude I love your channel thank you so much
Hi guys nice video as always. Question does this method works also for Harleys? I have a 2017 xl883n iron sportster. Thank you
Wow, you actually made me feel capable of doing this...
That's the goal!
Yeah same. Now my rear breaks got no pressure, prolly full of air and no one sells that hose near me.
So that's cool. Been working on fixing my rear master pressure for 2 hours now.
@@DizzySpark my rear brake caliper only engages and is stuck
@@xXxVentrilloxXx aye same here my rear brake setup is currently stuck before watching but I think it’s cause I used dot3 not 4 idk tho
Super easy stuff but great video
A tip from a grumpy old mechanic. Don't pump the brake handle. This can cause any air bubbles in the system to brak into tiny bubbles, think foam. This can lead to your brakes feeling nice and firm until those teeny tiny bubbles get back together into one big bubble. Then you have soft brakes again. Instead of pumping, simply squeeze the break lever, open your bleeder to let fluid and air out, close your bleeder, and repeat. Once no more air is coming out, then you can pump the lever to get a final pressurization in the system. No pumping = no foaming, and this means not risking having to do it again.
Just an extra tip, when you’ve reached the step to refill your reservoir after bleeding the calipers, take a quick look at your brakepads. If they are worn, but not completely worn out, don’t fill your reservoir all the way. When you replace the pads, the pistons in the calipers will push back the brake fluid into the reservoir. The fluid needs somewhere to go.
Thanks for the reminder man. The first time I flushed I over filled and when I pushed the pistons back in I had a nasty overflow.
Did pads too. Forgot to include.
Extra tip number 2) You can instead when compressing the piston crack the bleeder and the extra fluid will go that way. Start with a little pressure on the piston, open the bleeder and close it again when piston is fully compressed. No air and no fuss.
@@rickhughes8998 should I fill it up to max when I have pistons pushed all the way back? Or when I have piston pushed all the way back with new pads?
@@Fordahord1 yes
Good and entertaining video Ari!
Little tip from me to owners of japanese ABS bikes:
I had a SV 650 with ABS 2007, done the brake maintainance accordingly , even more often than recommented. 2 years after I've got the bike experienced ABS motor failure. I've got it exchanged etc. however I was dedicated on finding out what caused the failure. Turned out ... :
When you flush you brake system the old brake fluid still remains in the ABS pump unless isn't activated, which isn't that common if you don't ride gravel or dusty roads. What happens is, what Ari explains that brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that after 10 years in you abs pump the fluid looks like glaze from a burned pan, respectively corosion is being caused inside and soon or later causes issues on the sensitive components.
When you flush your brake lines, go for a little ride, activate both abs circles ( front and rear) thus ensures that brake fluid from the abs unit has been transferred over the brake lines, which are flushed afterwards. Repeat the flushing procedure several times to make sure all the old fluid have circulated OR buy a BMW ! :D
Look at any service manual for abs models and you will see that they want you to hook it up to a diagnostic tool.
Those tools can activate the ABS pump for brake fluid service and thus flush the ABS circle.
It is hard to get your hands on such tools as a non brand specific mechanic, let alone as a private person.
That’s why, if people want to get a brake flush done by a trained mechanic, they should go directly to the Manufacturer.
As dumb as that sounds, but if you don’t have the tools for the job then you simply don’t have the Tools.
(Or you can off course do it the way you said by activating the ABS, but that certainly can involve some risks one needs to take for a result)
@@A_Ride_To Not all manufacturers require or even suggest cycling the ABS pump during brake service. Prior to this vid I reached out to contacts at BMW, Honda, Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Ducati, and only H-D required brake service be performed at a shop where the tech could manipulate the ABS via a diagnostic tool.
That's a good tip GSab. It's also good practice to engage the ABS so you know what it feels like in an actual emergency. BTW, did you disassemble the old ABS module?
I have an older bmw and its ABSII is no picnic
@@AriH211 ok my bad, I really thought every manufacturer requires ABS service via an OBD type of Tool.
At the same time really is a shame when they said that, because that means they don’t consider old brake fluid behind the ABS Pump a big deal
(and might not even service it that way).
I must say, I am a bit speechless.
I have bled many brake systems on bikes and this introduction to bleeding brakes is one of the best I have seen . Thanks for putting this up,there will be many watching this who have more confidence in doing the job for the first time . Well done .
Thanks for the tips. Now I'm waiting for "how to bleed a hydraulic clutch".
Pretty much the same procedure as the brakes.
I personally like to take the clutch cylinder off, to give it a good clean, since sometimes they get gunk in them.
@@damianrc5322 Really depends on the style but if is absolutely a requirement on older Kawaski's because you need to inspect the (pretty guaranteed to be leaking) pushrod for oil contamination which leads to a slightly more involved service.
On BIG hint if you do take it off, jamb a block of wood between the lever and the bar and ziptie it in place. You can ancidentally grab that lever at any point and in some slave cylinders than means the piston will pop right out. 90% of this time it means a (usually very cheap) rebuild kit will be needed.
Yes I need that
Look up ktm clutch back bleeding
Only homosexuals watch that
Executive producer: ChrisFix
Already TONS of videos on RUclips, this isn't something that hasn't been covered. So i don't understand the "finally", you just didn't look.
@@adrianmack3 dude i think you replied to the wrong comment.
@@revhappymv na na na, just let the negativity melt away here. Prevent the spread like COVID....oh wait.
@@levis3603 lol. There literally is a comment saying "finally" something right on top of your comment. I'm sure he was aiming to reply to that one. Just guiding him on the right path. The hate must go on, this is the internet after all 😋
Hey guys!
Great guide. 2 important things to add:
1. Always use fresh bottle of brake fluid. You can't store it after you have opened it.
2. Use gloves AND eye protection. When you remove the hose there is a risk to get some splashes on you. Without eye protection this might not end well. Ask me how I know.
How you know
How you know?
How do you know?
How did you know?
How do you know?
love the addition of ari and zack to the channel!
Zach and Ari are filming together again? Awesome!
me too!
Definitely helpful to see from a first person point I’ve view
Right on, good feedback.
Don’t you have to ensure you refill the reservoir to the exact same level to avoid fluid spilling out if you put fresh brake pads in? Because you have to push the pistons back sending excess fluid into the reservoir? I’m thinking if you over fill the reservoir you might not be able to push the pads in right? First time I did it I overfilled the reservoir and it started weeping from the reservoir when I went for a ride. The second time I bled them I used a level on the reservoir to ensure it was flat then used a sharp leather piercer to lightly mark the level of blue on the inside of the reservoir not deep enough to scrape metal off just enough to see it. I then refilled to exact mark at the end. Not sure if I’m being anal or not but didn’t have any issues second time round. Thx for all your vids.
Nice straightforward procedure, sprinkled with a few tips of the trade that really make the difference in your daily wrenching. The aluminum seal trick did it for me.
A perfect tutorial, just after I've already learned how to do it.
Figures LOL
It ALWAYS happens!!
This is a great video explaining how to bleed your motorcycle brakes. If you have an air compressor you might want to consider investing in a mityvac pneumatic operated fluid evacuator. The motorcycle shop I worked at had one and it worked so good I had to buy one myself. They will run you $100 but they are well worth it. When connected to compressed air they build a vacuum. You can use it to clean the reservoir and put fresh fluid in it to avoid sending any more old brake fluid through the brake system. They are also great for when the brake system has lots of air, like when you have changed out brake lines or calipers. It is one of the best tools I own for motorcycle work. They come with a nipple attachment that holds onto the bleeder for you, so once its connected to the bleeder you just loosen the bleeder and keep adding brake fluid at the reservoir until it has been fully bled.
Ari, I am impressed with the detail that your videos enlighten us with. Example- The JIS screwdriver. I didn't even know about them and I worked with Japanese co-workers @ Canon USA for 20 years! Also you mentioned the various metals in the fluid box, possible causing corrosion to watch out for.
Excellent Shop Manual video!
One thing I learned is the dot next to the screw to identify the style of fastener, thanks. I always take a black plastic trash bag and cover up the tank along with paper towels, cheep insurance. I'm glad RevZilla picked up this guy, great addition to the team.
Agree, I use saran wrap on any surface that the fluid might splash on.
I've nearly stripped the master cylinder screws on my CBR300R before I finally picked up a legit set of JIS screwdrivers on Amazon (and new screws from the dealer)
I did this many times on my bikes and could still learn some small tricks. But isn't it also recommended to clean and check the rubber membrane on top of the reservoir? It always collects water drops over the time.
You just made my day, your video is so detail oriented that I was able to flush the brake system myself. Great video!!
For a moment there I thought ChrisFix bought a motorcycle.
Another quick tip: add some water to the receptacle to help keep it stationary on the shop floor or lift.
You could also add some clean left over brake fluid so if it sucks anything up during the initial opening of the bleeder it wont' suck in air.
@@Doctoberfest not needed if you are applying pressure to the lever as you open the bleed nipple
@@patthewoodboy I'm not sure how apply pressure to the bleeder prevents the possibility of sucking in extra air?
@@patthewoodboy damn you are very salty bro everything okay with you? You got real hostile from a simple reply meaning for you to expand on your original comment
@@patthewoodboy oooohhhh brake "lever" that makes sense now. Instead of looking to pick a fight with someone in the youtube comments have you ever thought of meditation or something?
Like the tip on punching holes in the new brake fluid container, but Instead of cutting an X on the side of the milk bottle, what about cutting it into the lid? That way you can use another lid and it's totally sealed when done, no tape required.
Great video Ari. Lots of great tips, especially the JIS screwdriver info.
That's super. I've been bleeding my brakes not the right way for years. I've been pumping the leaver locking off the bleed nipple at the same time. It works but it's tricky. Top video. Terry
Nice video on how to bleed your brakes. I like to remove the soft black rubber diaphram cover and check for moisture build up. If I find signs of moisture, I first clean off the brake fluid side then lightly blow compressed air to blow on the non brake fluid side to remove the moisture.
Excellent vid! That X in the bottle and upward loop were genius, never thought of that, add some weight to the bottle like someone else mentioned so it doesn't go flying. Mentioned everything I thought you'd leave out except making sure you get the res gasket seated before screwing it down. They can be old and dry on older bikes and better off with a new gasket.
Ari, yet another 🔝 quality production, while being super relevant and helpful! Best channel for motorcyclist 🎥🎬🛠👍🏻
Question about the master cylinder. Should you open the bolts and level the whole brake lever/master cylinder before adding and checking brake fluid level?
One tip that I used to get stuck cap bolts open was to use hammer screwdriver. Once I had to drill the bolts out and luckily after drilling the came out easily.
Shown here is the least desirable way to bleed the brakes. Better method is reverse bleeding: 1)Get a syringe and connect to the tubing. 2)Put the tubing in the brake fluid container and fill the syringe. 3)Push out any air bubbles back into the brake fluid container, then put the cap back on the container. 4)Connect syringe and tubing at the bleeder over the wrench. 5) Crack open the bleeder and use the syringe to push the brake fluid up the brake line to the master cylinder. You can watch the fluid fill up the master cylinder. Any air in the system will rise upwards to the master cylinder and dissipate. 6) Tighten the bleeder and remove the tubing/syringe. I use a glass 30mL syringe that is easy to clean and has no rubber plunger tip. You can use a food injector syringe or a disposable syringe. Pros are: No catch can, receptacle or bottle, no pressure bleeding the brakes, air bubbles rise to the top and don't get trapped in the system, no pouring of brake fluid into the master cylinder and potential spillage on to your controls or bike. You can also flush the system this way. Inject clean fluid at the bleeder and use the syringe to remove the dirty fluid from the master cylinder.
I just did my first brake flush on my Fz6. Was much easier than I thought! This video saved me some sweet cash!
I've known this procedure for a life time,(I'm 63). Used it on cars also. Only thing different is that we put the end of the hose into a jar with a little fluid in it already. That way we didn't have to keep opening and closing the bleeder because each pump stroke would only draw fluid back and not air. We just kept pumping until no more air bubbles in the line. BTW. Harley just did an unauthorised fluid change on my bike. Cost me $160 !!!! Thanks for your excellent video.
What’s your opinion on bleeding the brakes from the bleeder screw up to the master cylinder, pushing the fluid up versus pumping the lever?
started using a capri tools vacuum brake bleeder this year, cost like $85 bucks but is the most convenient thing ever when doing brakes. if you have one bike and do brakes every 2 years like in the manual this method is great, but if you have a few bikes and do brakes often you gotta get a vacuum bleeder. great video!
Just btw if you recently dropped your bike and your lever is soft and spongy, it might be your rotors which could be bent. Basically bent rotors push the pads in when you move the wheel. so just check them in case.
Source: dropped bike while loading and spent 2 months trying to fix
Hi Ari Hinning I love your work man... Your videos are awesome and precise..
Very helpful walk through for a first time Brake Line Bleeder...:)
I like the tip on only punching holes in the foil. I can use that on alot of stuff. Thanks.
Excellent and easy to follow. You are my go to for anything bike related. I like that you explain exactly why you are doing things and the reason for it.
I started on the right side calliper but was confusing at first that you said start on the left. Does it really matter?
About ABS bikes. It's good idea to activate ABS pump after fluid change and flush it again. Just hard press rear brake while riding and it'll activate. I learned this hard way, because ABS pumps on Yamaha's CP2 engines (i.e. mt07) are not very reliable (with old fluid they get faulty and makes high pitch noise when activated), so better keep a eye on fluid change intervals.
I accidentally heard the master cylinder tank suck in air. It took FOREVER to get all the air out.
Some brilliant tips there 👍
if you pull air in from the reservoir you can close the bleeder screw on the caliper and stick a flat head screwdriver in between the rotor and pad (gently) and pry open the pads which will send fluid back up towards the reservoir pushing all the air out of that end. Then fill the reservoir and continue as normal.
POV is absolutely the move. This makes it so much easier to understand and follow. Great video! Going to do mine tomorrow
Question: I changed the brake lines for my front brakes and drained the old ones. While I drained them, I assume I emptied the master cylinder and ABS pump oil storage? To fill it back up I just do the same as Ari here, start by filling the master cylinder, then bleed the new oil through? Many thanks
Put a ziptie from the lever to the grip overnight as tight as you can make it. Remove it the next day and thank me. This works for rear brakes and hydraulic clutches as well.
I don’t understand. Why should I do this?
@@ardencassie5150I’ve heard that it helps bleed air bubbles. The increased pressure “pushes” the air through the lines easier than when there is no pressure, so it slowly pushes the air up into the reservoir. Don’t think you should use it as a complete alternative to manually bleeding, but can do it after the main bleeding to make sure there’s no little bubbles left along the lines.
That was one of the best tutorials on how to bleed motorcycle brakes. Clear, concise and brilliant tips. It was that good it has given me the confidence to have a go myself. Thank you.
one thing he didnt mention, if you have a bleeder on your master cylinder start with that. i couldnt figure out what i did wrong since i followed the directions but still had a spongy lever that pulled allt the way into the bar until i noticed i had a bleeder valve at my master cylinder. run 2 full reservoirs of fluid through it, now it will be completely clean for when you do the lines. do the lines as normal then finish off again with bleeding the master cylinder before topping off. my lever now only has a perfect 1/2inch of play, are now STIFF with no sponginess and finally dont pull in all the way to the bars!
Thanks Ari, really great tips and even better production quality.
Informative and well done, thank you!
oh man, i gotta get a little hose! my VTX1800 is a bit more involved due to all the piping and all the fluid the linked brakes use, but as always, thank you Ari!
The only thing I’d add that we do in the shop is after you’ve bled the front a lot of the bikes will get air trapped in the horizontal parts of the master cylinder so it helps to remove the cover and tap on the side of it a bit and gently make little pulls on the lever until you stop seeing bubbles coming up out of the master cylinder into the reservoir.
Hi - Thanks a million - youve made the job one heck of lot easier & for the "Biggest" tip (for me) which was that the screws on the master are JIS (i would have just got the phillips out & torn them apart) & the next important was to draw out the fluid using a syringe -Thankyou
One tip, one suggestion
Suggestion, buy a pair of large syringes from a vet for like $10. You can use them a ton in bikes, but suck the fluid from the master. Then use the syringe on the bleeder, push the fluid UP to the master. Never have a bubble doing it this way
That JIS brand that was shown is Vessel. They also make other awesome screwdrivers, a $12 ball handle with bits, including JIS, and the Impacta! A JIS screwdriver and impact driver in one. Also pretty inexpensive, but it’ll pop off any stuck JIS fastener.
+1 back bleeding with a syringe was the only way I could bleed my brakes after rebuilding my caliper. I tried the traditional way but the fluid was just going past the air trapped in the caliper no matter how many times I repeated the process. Then I found out about the syringe method and it worked first try, quick and easy
Very true for bleed procedure. Other causes of brake sponginess can include old, worn master cylinder, bad seals on caliper, old brake lines, or even warped rotors.
Nice video Ari to show the new riders what to do! When I upgraded my Ninjas front and rear brake lines to Spiegler steel braided lines, I also installed "Speed Bleeders" on the calipers. Boy bleeding brakes is even easier and faster now when I do it!
Start with the furthest caliper. That's a pro tip and few do that.
I would add one more tip, though. After job done and before covering with the rubber cap, use paper towel to dry the interior of the bleeder. That way will minimize the higroscopic effect at the closest entry point to the fluid.
Overkill, maybe? Rust also is ;)
Keep up the good work.
Love the first person POV! Super helpful, feels almost hands on.
Great video Ari! Love the Shop Manual. I use a large seringe with the hose to bleed and to open the reservoir cover I often make use of a impact tool -hammer type (because the screws always get stuck).
They get stuck because you over-tighten them. Counter-sunk screws locks themselves when tightened.
I am working on machines that have counter-sunk screws and the over-tightened ones makes sparks fly when you loosen them.
It's usually enough to hammer head with standard screw driver. Obviously screwdriver head should be a model that has through type head that's made for hammering. One of the first things older machine mechanic told me that if something is seriously stuck. Just keep hammering the head with light to moderate force. They usually give up, but it requires quite a bit of patience from mechanic. It can also work if you can tap female thread side, but that usually leaves marks and in most cases isn't possible at all. It's very good tip and used it much. Once my friend was struggling big time with big rusted nut. The thread part turned with seized nut. Taking block of metal to use as anvil and simply hammering sides of nut for a good while resulted nut to be taken out almost with bare fingers. I'm sure you knew about this, but hopefully it could be a good tip for many others :)
I’m a big fan of using pneumatic air break fluid bleeder. It eliminates having to pump out the brake fluid using the brake lever also keeps thing clean. Just suck it out and keep filling the reservoir until you see clear fluid come out. Very easy and quick. And mine cost me 40$ so cheap to.
Your video on MCG really helped me swap out my brake fluids. This one is even better. Thanks for the good content, Ari. Keep wrenching. 🔧🔧
I'm glad you like the new POV.
@@AriH211 great video as always. you both rocks!
been watching your video on many different channel since 2014(?) never disappoint
Hey Ari, I usually use a small manual pump, paid 10 bucks or so. I keep vacuum and open little by little the line. I think by maintaining vacuum there's no chance to air get in. I really hated to pump the brake lever every time
I couldn't be over the moon anymore due to the fact that I have the exact same bike! Thanks Ari, don't swap it anytime soon :D
This Versys actually belongs to Spenser, our director and editor, but I've got a 2014 Versys 650 LT (white) as well! Great bike.
@@AriH211 Very cool to hear! It's my 2nd bike - a used 2016 650, and it's brilliant so far. I learned so much riding it. Thank you and Spenser for a great video!
As always, you explain everything in the best way for average dudes like me to follow! Quick question though: are drum brakes the same process? My bike has disc front, and rear shoes. Thanks!
These videos are amazing. I would've liked a little better lighting for this one though!
Great video.
Just one point that might actually kill you if you DIY this. DO NOT overfill the reservoir. If you overfill and your brake fluid has no where to go on thermal expansion, you're going to have a VERY bad time.
What about underslung rear callipers?
On bikes with this feature, the bleed nipple is not at the high point in the system. Some pundits suggest unbolting the calliper, placing a wedge or block between the pads, and turning the calliper upside down (right way up?) to bleed the brakes.
Thoughts?
Yes, I've done this, exactly as you say. Unbolt the caliper, hang the caliper (I use a daisey chain of zip ties of the rear foot pegs) so the bleed nipple is the highest point of the system, and the nipple is pointing upwards, and place a spacer (a piece of metal plate or some use a spanner) between the brake pads, to replicate the brake disc. I wrap a zip tie around the caliper to hold the spacer in. Then bleed brakes as normal 👍
Very informative vid and perfect for the amateur spannerman.I prefer the reverse method ie draining the old fluid then pushing the new fluid up through the system using a medical syringe. Cheers
Great info and a nice change of perspective. Thank you, Ari!
Glad to hear you liked it. We'll likely utilize this perspective more in the future.
Like the new perspective! Was waiting for the brake bleed video, thanks. Keep it up guys, awesome job!
Great feedback, thanks Daniel.
Awesome video right to the point. I used every single one of your tips. That was long overdue on my bike the rear brake fluid looked like used motor oil. The front, not a whole lot better. New pads and fresh oil talk about stopping power. Next project fork oil.
Hi Ari. Great video. Just one thing confuses me though-you stopped bleeding the lines after the bubbles disappeared. Aren’t you supposed to flush until you se a change from dark to light fluid indicating the old fluid is flushed and replaced with fresh brake fluid?
Yes, that's the correct procedure and something I failed to explain in detail as I was bleeding the brakes.
Haha I was just at the motorcycle store yesterday picking up fluids - oil, coolant, muckoff, etc - and was looking at the brake fluid thinking ‘I should really learn how to do that’, so great timing!
I was put off by an overly complicated and messy process on my pushy a year or two ago, but this looks way more manageable than I thought ... if only I hadn’t just had my recycling collected lol
Very good tips. I especially the JIS mentioned. As kid I always F'd my moped carburator screw heads. It remained mystery for a very long time. Just few years ago one machine mechanic mentioned me the difference as he was teching me to work with one japanese machine. Indeed there is very slight difference in the profile which makes a huge difference. I immediately ordered myself a kit of JIS screw drivers. They're essential on even a bit older japanese bikes. But on that regard, someone told me that many latest japanese bikes don't have them anymore. I can't confirm this is as I ride older bikes, but just keep out eye for that dot. It's simple as that.
Great video, love the perspective, hot tips and how you make your bloopers part of the video. Keep it up :)
I've been meaning to do that on my bike for weeks, now the only excuse I've got is not having the brake fluid right now.
MUCH better than you older tutorials! Very impressed with your knowledge on this. 👏
Excellent bro. I watched like six or seven videos before I found yours and I finally felt confident about being able to do this. I’ve done it now I’ll comment back to let you know if it worked. Lol
Good to know! I'm learning how to work on my bike so these videos help a lot!! Thank you!
Great video. All steps nicely explained. I will use it next time I have to change my break pads
Ace video straight forward and well demonstrated by Ari. Good work rev zilla this content of fun pizza then reviews then maintenance is top notch
Good video! I know you mentioned there isn't much fluid in a bike, but I still really like the vacuum pumps.. Tons of cheap hand vacuum pump kits for $20 or so, other can actually use an air compressor. Makes brake bleeding so much faster on cars and motorcycles.
You helped this girl out. I know a lot of my bike already but I never learned to do this. It might not be expensive but I love her all and I wanted to do it myself. For sure you got my subscription
I was told on ABS models you need to do the full bleed front and rear brakes, then ride to a safe area (dirft road) to activate the front and rear ABS, then repeat the bleed for the front and rear back at home for the front and rear. Or connecting it to a computer to activate the ABS. Has anyone heard the same thing?
Yeah I heard the same, as apparently some fluid always stays inside the pump and if the pump is not activated it doesn't circulate into the system, gathers up moisture and leads to corrosion of the inner workings of your pump. But the amount of fluid in the pump is very little, so a couple safely performed gravel breakings are all you need. Some like to bleed after that one more time but that's a bit overkill in my opinion
I use small vacuum pump directly to a bottle, much easier
Explain the difference between cheap master cylinders vs more expensive master cylinders. More expensive not necessarily faster stopping but better feel of progressive braking.
Perhaps you mean the difference between axial and radial master cylinders?
Compare Nissin master to Brembo master for example. Compare stylema vs a nissin caliper. Why do companies mix components nissin master with Brembo calipers. Also different size pistons in master cylinder, why?
Fill syringes are a godsend - removing old fluids/adding fresh, extracting accidental oil overfill, precise application of grease/sealant, or a makeshift float level sight glass. I usually keep a few handy now.
I'm replacing the master cylinder on my bike. The screws are all chewed up. They look like someone took a drill to remove them. I am also replacing the clutch master mostly to make it look nice, and the 2 come as a set. I'm also doing it because the lever has a strange curl on the end.
BTW. Is the operation to bleed the clutch the same?
Yes, bleeding the clutch follows the same procedure.
Very useful information man!... It’s time to bleed my breaks.
This is the best video I found on the topic. Followed the instructions, worked like a charm. THANK YOU SO MUCH !!! 🙂
Before radial master cylinders I used to zip tie my lever to the bar & turn my bars on full lock to the left overnight. It allows any stubborn bubbles up at the lever to flow back into the reservoir. Also the rubber seal is a diaphragm that extends & it's supposed to keep the space free from drawing air (& moisture) into the reservoir should you lose any fluid. It's probably obvious but if not; if the diaphragm/seal popped out, take it away from the bike (it can get splashy) & pop the folds back in place before bleeding.
This was a really awesome and helpful video! I have been skittish to attempt this myself but your How-To is great and very much appreciated. Thank!
You can do it. It's really not that hard, and you'll save a bunch of money not paying a shop to do it. Just be careful with the bleeder bolts; they're small so don't overtighten them.
man this was exactly what i needed. def not paying a shop to do this easy work.
Very helpful tutorial, great video, Thanks a Lot!!!!
Just one thing: If you have a BMW with ABS, you will need to have it done by an authorised BMW workshop, as a computer is necessary.
What do they need the computer for?
@@Dankyjrthethird I don't really know why. But I read a shop manual on the net which mentions it and two motorcycle mechanics told me so too. It has something to do with the ABS sensor which must be recalibrated and might prevent a normal bleeding operation as we know it.
Wow, more than 1000 likes and just 1 dislike !
Looks simple enough. I was about to buy some needle pump that someone else ended up not using correctly so now at least I know I dont have to worry about doing it the simple way.
really enjoyed the video, wasn't too long nor short, very helpful tips here and there, will definitely be referring back to this when I attempt this on my bike in the future :D
Question: Why is it best to bleed the furthest point from the master cylinder first?
Gets most of the old fluid out of the lines
Worked out perfectly on my FTR except I accidentally overfilled the front reservoir as Brembo uses a soft internal rubber bladder type gasket