I have a 2003 Honda Shadow VLX 600, that I've made a few changes to it. I use a handheld vacuum pump with a plastic hose going into a container with another plastic hose to the bleeder nipple by applying vacuum to the container it draws brake fluid out of the caliper and down from the reservoir. I keep checking the level and adding more brake fluid to the reservoir before any air gets into the system. When the fluid comes out looking clearer, then I'm done. I do like your videos. As my 5th grade teacher told us when you graduate from high school or college, you're not out of school. Life is a school and you must never stop learning. Best teacher and lesson I ever had in school and it proved useful in my life. I can always benefit by learning something new every day.
Great advice. Many people are here because they are not wealthy, and would like to take care of what they can afford, affordably. a 1993 Honda Shadow has rubber lines. It's fine if YOU choose to afford steel braided brake lines, but don't criticize other people for what's in their budget. This guy is the common man's hero, for bike repair. Snobs can go elsewhere, or chill out if you stay. Thanks.
follow the advice of someone who clamps high pressure brake lines? nothing to do with steel ones...nothing to do with snobbery, clamping a line hard enough to cause the restriction required in the video WILL DAMAGE the brake line.
Just wanted to say the technique of using a pair of pliers on the hose was a complete game changer. I have been working on cars and bikes for a long time now, but never heard this trick before. Thank you for making bleeding the brakes much easier.
I watched one of your brake caliper rebuild videos yesterday. You used a brake line clamp to squeeze that line, instead of pliers. It looks like a much safer tool for the rubber lines because it has rounded jaws. After seeing you recommend it I checked to see if Harbor Frt carried them & found a set of four clamps for $8. (I just thought I'd mention it since this video is from 2016 & you probably didn't have that tool back then.) Thanks for the great videos.
I just tried this on a Zuma 50 Im working on for a friend and it worked like a champ. This made the bleed so much easier, faster and a one man job. Thanks and now I'm a subscriber.😁
Thanks the advice man! I was a bit nervous about pinching my brake line because i'm running the OEM 93 tubes on my bike and even though I didn't see any rot or anything, just played it safe. I used my wife as a "cheat" by having her sit on the ground and do the "open/close" between pumps (the old fashioned way) and ran 6 refills through the system (after having emptied and refilled the resevoir like your directions, and each refill being about 1/2-2/3 of the liquid in the brake fluid reservoir) . So I'm estimating between 3-4 FULL reservoirs went through it for the full flush (my wife confirmed it was clear liquid for about 4 of those 6 refills anyways since it was just what was in the tubes). Brakes feel solid as a rock, and having just changed my pads yesterday, braking feels nice and solid. Never taking it to my mechanic for something like this again. Easy enough for a fairly competent person to pull off. I have a new diaphram on the way (it had to be special ordered and I forgot to order before starting) so I'll just swap the diaphram the minute it comes in the mail this coming up week. Show less REPLY
thanks, I'm no mechanic, but it's nice to do the simple things on your bike. I'm just glad I don't have a dual caliper front brake system, or disc fronts AND back, as even though it was brainlessly simple if you follow directions, was definitely tedious doing the old "pump pump hold...crack the bleeder, close the bleeder. repeat" method...even with my wife helping so I didn't have to do both lol
Man You are a Legend too say the least. I bought this Yam TTR250 $400 with leaking base gasket. So to repair I may as well do top end no big deal. Front master cyl decides it needs new kit as it stuck. No big deal. I put in new kit, tried too bleed, No way Hos'ea. The brake line sticks up 1/2 a mile higher than the master cyl, try reverse bleed , all sorts of shit. Nothing. Cody pops up on youtube and saves the day with his plier 1 way valve trick. Yippee , it worked a treat. Im a Honda man personally , I might sell this yam and get another XR. Thanks again Cody.
Dude, your method is 100% spot on. I have a vacuume fed bleeding kit and the pliar method worked soooo much better. I used the pump kid to clean out the master cylinder instead of the turkey baster.. you killed it with this tutorial. Thanks kid
thoughts, after bleeding the front break and replacing the pads the front wheel doesn't spin freely.. seems to have drag.. do you think I still have a bubble
everettesfit Slight drag is normal with brand new pads. Failure to spin is a problem and no that wouldn't be an air thing. That would be a possible dirty caliper or crud in the relief hole up top.
TheMotorcycleMD once again you were 100% on the money. the drag in my breaks ended up being crud behind one of the caliper pistons. cleaned it out used some 1500grit paper to smooth out the sticking piston and no more sticking. thanks again for the tips
i noticed that you referred to "phillips" screws. in a video which you must have made after this one you talked about J.I.S. screws /screwdrivers. i found out about J.I.S. from yet another youtube video. this seems to be one of the best-kept secrets in the mechanical field. once you use one on a japanese motorcycle you will never go back to using a phillips. i hope you will spread the word in future videos. best tool i have purchased in a LONG time. no more chewed up screw heads; seldom need an impact to loosen one anymore.
Japanese bikes use a JIS type of screws. These are slightly different than Philips screws. Get s Vessel brand screw driver and you'll have an easier time removing screws on your Japanese bike.
Best advice when working on Honda. Looks like a Phillips, but is a JIS. I see these stripped all the time on older Hondas and it is such an easy and cheap solution to save you headaches down the road.
from my heart...thank you...your video really helped me ...i changed my motocycle brake clipper after that i couldn't move the air out from the brake system...so i do it by your way...and walaaah!!! its working. after three and a half year video still help the people's
Great video, i've learnt a lot before doing brakes and clutch on my Honda vtr 1000. Because of you i'm gonna order new diaphragms before the task. In the past i reused the old one of it's not split. I would have used dot 3 if i hadn't seen your video, so thanks for the dot 4 tip. It's good to put one drop of WD40 on the screws an hour before cracking them and i encourage everyone to buy an Impact Driver and use that as a Phillips head. It's bulk and weight give good purchase and will undo the screw without hitting it, and if it doesn't, it's ready for a light tap with a hammer. I like your 3 uses of a cloth or paper, that's always been my way. Good economics and waste reduction.
This was perfect teaching! Thank you!!! 1. I *did* have to tap my screwdriver with a hammer. Very soft metal, those screws! 2. Creating a valve with needle nose pliers was crucial and made the job faster. 3. Flushing 2-3 reservoirs' worth of brake fluid pulled out a bit of particulate. I could use more understanding of the air, though: bubbles were coming out of the bleed valve, and I thought I was supposed to see them primarily at the reservoir? Jic, I pumped fluid til I didn't see air on either end.
Thanks, good tip about the diaphragm! Depending on the age of the bike I would also strip the caliper, clean and replace the seals, it makes a world of difference to the 'feel' of the brake system and reduces the chance of seized pistons down the line.
Also what the other guy said about older Hondas. I've picked up a couple older (2003-2007) but low mileage Shadows. One is in better shape than the other and the other needs brake fluid replacement. Thanks for the vid. .
The service manual on my Silverwing doesn't say anything about replacing the rubber part with a new one. Also, Motion Pro makes a couple of inexpensive brake bleeder tools that allow a one-man brake bleed. I bought one and it works great!
Wow. Thanks. It worked great. Was having trouble and watched and thought “dang why didn’t I think of that”? Took about 15 min and brakes are nice and firm. Looking forward to watching more. 2004 VT 1100 Spirit. Ready to ride!👍🏼
I didn't make it through the entire comment section so you may have answered this already but is it going to mess things up with using dot3 instead of dot4? The MC cap on my 85' VF500 says to only use dot3 so that's what I changed it with a few months back. It could be coincidental but my front brake keeps locking up to the point of having to open the bleeder to get it to move. Thanks for taking the time to post these tutorials man. Seems like a lot of people focus on the negative or trivial shit and forget that you're taking your time to try and help others. It's an honorable thing you do and is greatly appreciated.
I had never heard the advice to replace the diaphram every opening. I keep spares for when they have damage, but that is rare; but brake fluid spills are so damaging that your advice makes sense. I use speed bleeders to purge, think of the money I could have saved.
You did a great job. Only thing I did not like is using the pliers on the brake line, the brake lines can break down on the inside when you crimp the lines with plier.
Agree, have seen old brake hoses that have been squeezed like that fail internally, and become permanently one way. Brakes go on but do not go off, or will not go on. Better off using a bleed pipe with a built in one-way valve. Otherwise. I find his meticulous approach refreshing,
Cody, I am liking the pliers tip. Looking forward to putting it in to use. Specially on the rear brake master on my 92 F2, which has been a major pain in my ass. Thanks for sharing the good stuff, I really appreciate your knowledge. As well as your time and effort spent on making and freely sharing these videos. Thank you so much.
Thanks for this video. Very well explained. Im glad i saw this before doing my brake bleed. I wouldnt have known about the one use rubber seal. Thanks a bunch
I just got an 04 sabre. 10k miles. Pretty sweet..well cared for. How often do you recommend break fluid flush? Oil changes? Front and rear break replacement? Radiator fluid flush? Fuel filter replacement?
Very helpful. Thanks. My question is this: If you suck out the old fluid in the reservoir isn't there a danger of introducing air into the system from the reservoir? Thanks.
Love you man : after I watched your Video until the end : I see that you have solved my problem : you are so smart to do this : because the same problem with me is that the fluid is comming back again and does not make the pressure ... while some people will think that your Idea is bad or stupid : I think that you are an expert because it looks like you have experienced many many Brake problems like me exactly .. thank you Sir .
I have a Honda Shadow spirit vt1100c and I did the brakes yesterday and was getting frustrated because I kept getting air in the line. My recommendation is to not use pliers but instead to wrap a rag around the brake line to protect it then use a VERY tight pair of vise grips. My brakes are now harder than ever thanks!
Thank you for the information!!! It also helps that you are working on something that looks close to what I have. This is my first used bike and this worked just as you said. Let's see what is next for me to repair...
A new gasket every time you break the seal? I bet Honda loves hearing that! I'm glad you told me, after the 20 or 30 times I've had mine off and on, I never knew!
Any part like that diaphragm that creates a seal will distort over time. If you reinstall the original you greatly increase the likelihood of a leak. A new diaphragm is cheap insurance against the cost of a new paint job on your tank.
It's a guide for a mong who don't know what they are looking at so they don't put a shit one back in If you that fucking stupid don't touch your brakes!!! And the screws are shit to remove because they aren't Philips heads like most people use they are jis standard
@@gabrielchaparro1698 The hole where where your brake hose is bolted to the brake master cylinder. the banjo bolt has a hole in it. When you put your brake hose on air gets trapped right there and doesn't allow brakes to work.
Ooh, I'm just about to head out to the garage to try your nifty pliers trick! I'm gonna try it with a fuel hose clamp so I can leave it in place. Hopefully it will have enough leverage for the brake hose.
duuuuude killing it with these awesome vids! Picked up a beat up ninja 250 the othe dayr, ordered all the parts and will start working on her next week thanks to your vids. keep up the great work man! :D
Important to mention… When the piston is in the rest position, the brake fluid will be balanced via The compensation hole. This compensation hole is very small, clean this compensation hole with a very thin wire of copper, if it would clog… you are guaranteed a dragging caliper, this has already happened to me twice!!! with the Honda CBX 1000. Stay Safe.
it works, great hack with plier choke brother! subbed. one thing to be careful though, the break fluid squirts from the reservoir if squeezed suddenly while bleeding haha but all is good👌🏿
I dislodged the little flap that nests on top of the hole at the bottom, it can go one of two ways. Wonder what's it for? I have a brake tool kit from the old days, in it is a pair of smooth nosed pliers for clamping the hose to facilitate caliper removal without losing fluid. Similar, just thought I'd say, no good for bleeding
This is really a great video. Is it okay to do this with ABS brakes on a Honda CBF600 P38? I'm bummed the mechanic just did my brakes as I will have to wait a year to get to try it myself.
And you should not pinch any brake line, it can make micro damage to the hose. That is also the reason you should not demount the caliper and let it just hang on the hose. Always wire it up to the handles.
One more thing, when I removed the diaphragm, I noticed it can be in two positions, flat or sucked inwards into the reservoir. Does it make a difference if I put the new diaphragm in in the expanded (sucked in) position or should it be flat as shown?
Isn't it better to leave a little bit old brake fluid into the resevoir, then add new fluid and bleed it till you see new fluid coming out of the bleeding hole? Because now you fully emptied the reservoir and there is air going into the brake fluid hole (at the reservoir).
wow thank you very much sir thank you that's the best the proper way I'm gonna change my bike brake fluid right now and that's the best guide video I really appreciate it my God God bless you with all his special blessings thank you very much sir
I like the plier ideal. But I have Braided SS Brake lines on my 1985 Asppy GL1200. So how should I do my brakes.? Maybe a Brake vacuum bleed? Sincerely Roger H. Keep up the great work . Love the videos they really help
Hello sir I just bought a 83 Honda shadow 750 I’m 16 my first real bike I’ve rode a few things a mini bike 300cc mopeds but never something like this and to start it needs some work tanks off rear of the bike is off missing a few parts but I think I can get it back up and running soon
1:52 your problem starts with, not a Philips screw… do you see the tick marks.. they indicate that it’s a Japanese Industrial Standard screw. A little different. The most expensive screw driver I own is a JIS, and it’s a dream to use. It fits the screw head so tight they stick right to the end of the driver… I would recommend investing in a JIS driver….
Does this work on systems where there are two calipers connected to one master cylinder? I just need two hoses connected to both bleeder ports and draining into the waste bottle, right?
New screws available on ebay for cylinder cap, break fluid turns rusty via roasting when it reaches 170 Celcius. Rust color is not from rust. Organic matrial like poly glycol can burn at high temperatures.
hi I have a problem with the front brake on my Honda vt750DC no matter how many times I bleed the front brake the lever never seems to gain any resistance can you help?
No need to over-torque screw on the reservoirs. Btw, get a JIS screwdriver - then no fighting. Its NOT a Phillips head. Subtle tip difference but makes all the difference in the world. Also vacuum blenders are cheap ($30) and a HUGE time saver. They also work much better. I couldn't bleed my hydraulic clutch without it.
Great video and advice, thanks! I've got a 94' VT1100 and want to change the bars.. currently the master cylinder has a 45° mounting angle due to the buckhorn style bars... if i swap them out and mount them on straight bars, will they function ok as long as i clean/fill/bleed with them straight? If not... any advice on which master cylinder to swap it for? Thanks
I just bought a goldwing yesterday and attempted to do the brake fluid and it went really bad. Not devastating, but had to give up after i couldn't get any fluid out. I think your video makes it much clearer what I need to do. Second, and i know this is a dumb question, but how, for the love of God, do you get the center kick stand down to keep it level? I tried throwing all my weight onto it while lifting the bike and could barely budge it. Is there a trick i'm missing?
Ah! The center stand. The motion is all downward.. make sure the front wheel is dead straight, get a solid part of your foot on the stand and stand up while pulling up with your right shoulder. No yanking backwards. Your left arm is not doing any of the pulling. It just there to keep the wheel straight. Good luck!
TheMotorcycleMD you're awesome, thanks for the reply... I'll give it another shot. I think I was pulling backwards with both arms, and then would get nervous once it was up. Then I dropped it once too, so that was awesome. Feels impossible, but I know many this seem that way till you figure it out. I think my driveway might also be slightly sloped across which added to my difficulty
TheMotorcycleMD wow.. Followed your advice and that was stupid easy. Can't believe I couldn't do it before, and that I stopped the stupid thing once. Now I can try the brake fluid again!
I hope you'll see this and help me out. I've got an 82 nighthawk 650 with brake and clutch master reservoirs with rotten leaking sight glasses. Have you done a video on rebuilding masters with replacing the sight glasses. Buying new masters are out of the question, bike shop quoted $1100.00 each for new.
i just bled the front brakes on my 05 Honda CBR600rr...this was the first time ever doing this, i bought some bleeder hand pump kit, watched a couple videos on it, then tried it out just now and its was useless... while it would suck the fluid out, it created so many of its own air bubbles i couldn't tell what the fk was going on so i ended up doing it manually, with just a hose, small jar and the 8mil wrench! i got all the fluid out and replaced, cap back on but idk if i have enough fluid in the reservoir...at first i over filled it and it spewed out everywhere when i put the seals and cover back on so then i used a small dropper and sucked some fluid out... now it's about half way on the little round window thing...is this good or should i add some more?! ps- what a damned mess AND a pain in the ass to do on a sportbike because the windscreen and everything else gets right in the way! lol 😂😊
Can't tell you how much I appreciate your tutorials and the fact that you work on older Hondas makes them that much more valuable. Cheers
AGREED! Long Live 83-84 SHADOWS!~
I have a 2003 Honda Shadow VLX 600, that I've made a few changes to it. I use a handheld vacuum pump with a plastic hose going into a container with another plastic hose to the bleeder nipple by applying vacuum to the container it draws brake fluid out of the caliper and down from the reservoir. I keep checking the level and adding more brake fluid to the reservoir before any air gets into the system. When the fluid comes out looking clearer, then I'm done. I do like your videos. As my 5th grade teacher told us when you graduate from high school or college, you're not out of school. Life is a school and you must never stop learning. Best teacher and lesson I ever had in school and it proved useful in my life. I can always benefit by learning something new every day.
Great advice. Many people are here because they are not wealthy, and would like to take care of what they can afford, affordably. a 1993 Honda Shadow has rubber lines. It's fine if YOU choose to afford steel braided brake lines, but don't criticize other people for what's in their budget. This guy is the common man's hero, for bike repair. Snobs can go elsewhere, or chill out if you stay. Thanks.
follow the advice of someone who clamps high pressure brake lines? nothing to do with steel ones...nothing to do with snobbery, clamping a line hard enough to cause the restriction required in the video WILL DAMAGE the brake line.
Just wanted to say the technique of using a pair of pliers on the hose was a complete game changer. I have been working on cars and bikes for a long time now, but never heard this trick before. Thank you for making bleeding the brakes much easier.
Have watched many bike maintenance videos, but this guy really knows his stuff. Excellent
I watched one of your brake caliper rebuild videos yesterday. You used a brake line clamp to squeeze that line, instead of pliers. It looks like a much safer tool for the rubber lines because it has rounded jaws. After seeing you recommend it I checked to see if Harbor Frt carried them & found a set of four clamps for $8.
(I just thought I'd mention it since this video is from 2016 & you probably didn't have that tool back then.)
Thanks for the great videos.
I just tried this on a Zuma 50 Im working on for a friend and it worked like a champ. This made the bleed so much easier, faster and a one man job. Thanks and now I'm a subscriber.😁
I was taught that brake fluid is hygroscopic, attracting moisture making it dark. Your process is spotless. Mucho Mahalo.
Thanks the advice man! I was a bit nervous about pinching my brake line because i'm running the OEM 93 tubes on my bike and even though I didn't see any rot or anything, just played it safe. I used my wife as a "cheat" by having her sit on the ground and do the "open/close" between pumps (the old fashioned way) and ran 6 refills through the system (after having emptied and refilled the resevoir like your directions, and each refill being about 1/2-2/3 of the liquid in the brake fluid reservoir) . So I'm estimating between 3-4 FULL reservoirs went through it for the full flush (my wife confirmed it was clear liquid for about 4 of those 6 refills anyways since it was just what was in the tubes). Brakes feel solid as a rock, and having just changed my pads yesterday, braking feels nice and solid. Never taking it to my mechanic for something like this again. Easy enough for a fairly competent person to pull off. I have a new diaphram on the way (it had to be special ordered and I forgot to order before starting) so I'll just swap the diaphram the minute it comes in the mail this coming up week.
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Nice job man!!
thanks, I'm no mechanic, but it's nice to do the simple things on your bike. I'm just glad I don't have a dual caliper front brake system, or disc fronts AND back, as even though it was brainlessly simple if you follow directions, was definitely tedious doing the old "pump pump hold...crack the bleeder, close the bleeder. repeat" method...even with my wife helping so I didn't have to do both lol
Man You are a Legend too say the least. I bought this Yam TTR250 $400 with leaking base gasket. So to repair I may as well do top end no big deal. Front master cyl decides it needs new kit as it stuck. No big deal. I put in new kit, tried too bleed, No way Hos'ea. The brake line sticks up 1/2 a mile higher than the master cyl, try reverse bleed , all sorts of shit. Nothing. Cody pops up on youtube and saves the day with his plier 1 way valve trick. Yippee , it worked a treat. Im a Honda man personally , I might sell this yam and get another XR. Thanks again Cody.
Dude, your method is 100% spot on. I have a vacuume fed bleeding kit and the pliar method worked soooo much better. I used the pump kid to clean out the master cylinder instead of the turkey baster.. you killed it with this tutorial. Thanks kid
everettesfit 🤙🤙👍 it is a pretty nifty trick!
thoughts, after bleeding the front break and replacing the pads the front wheel doesn't spin freely.. seems to have drag.. do you think I still have a bubble
everettesfit Slight drag is normal with brand new pads. Failure to spin is a problem and no that wouldn't be an air thing. That would be a possible dirty caliper or crud in the relief hole up top.
TheMotorcycleMD once again you were 100% on the money. the drag in my breaks ended up being crud behind one of the caliper pistons. cleaned it out used some 1500grit paper to smooth out the sticking piston and no more sticking. thanks again for the tips
i noticed that you referred to "phillips" screws. in a video which you must have made after this one you talked about J.I.S. screws /screwdrivers. i found out about J.I.S. from yet another youtube video. this seems to be one of the best-kept secrets in the mechanical field. once you use one on a japanese motorcycle you will never go back to using a phillips. i hope you will spread the word in future videos. best tool i have purchased in a LONG time. no more chewed up screw heads; seldom need an impact to loosen one anymore.
Mate..... The best brake bleeding process I've ever seen. From Sydney, Australia
Japanese bikes use a JIS type of screws. These are slightly different than Philips screws. Get s Vessel brand screw driver and you'll have an easier time removing screws on your Japanese bike.
Best advice when working on Honda. Looks like a Phillips, but is a JIS. I see these stripped all the time on older Hondas and it is such an easy and cheap solution to save you headaches down the road.
from my heart...thank you...your video really helped me ...i changed my motocycle brake clipper after that i couldn't move the air out from the brake system...so i do it by your way...and walaaah!!! its working.
after three and a half year video still help the people's
Pliers trick was amazing, saved me tons of time pumping the cylinder for usually 15 mins or so, it took me just a few minutes
Great video, i've learnt a lot before doing brakes and clutch on my Honda vtr 1000. Because of you i'm gonna order new diaphragms before the task. In the past i reused the old one of it's not split. I would have used dot 3 if i hadn't seen your video, so thanks for the dot 4 tip.
It's good to put one drop of WD40 on the screws an hour before cracking them and i encourage everyone to buy an Impact Driver and use that as a Phillips head. It's bulk and weight give good purchase and will undo the screw without hitting it, and if it doesn't, it's ready for a light tap with a hammer. I like your 3 uses of a cloth or paper, that's always been my way. Good economics and waste reduction.
I love how parts houses sell you way more than what you need to do a job like replace the brake fluid or oil.
Professional it is and you can tell this guys professionalism and" fine detail of wording" and did this a "thousand times"!! 100-100 TY
battlehrfred 🤙🤙
"This is the break bleeder 5000. it also solves world peace at the same time" 🤣🤣 That was golden haha.
This was perfect teaching! Thank you!!!
1. I *did* have to tap my screwdriver with a hammer. Very soft metal, those screws!
2. Creating a valve with needle nose pliers was crucial and made the job faster.
3. Flushing 2-3 reservoirs' worth of brake fluid pulled out a bit of particulate.
I could use more understanding of the air, though: bubbles were coming out of the bleed valve, and I thought I was supposed to see them primarily at the reservoir? Jic, I pumped fluid til I didn't see air on either end.
Man😭😭😭 just want to say thank you that's the only Method that worked for me!!
topped it up and bleed 4 times!!
Love the new intro brother!
Someone give this guy a tv show!
I will definitely have to try this pliar method. Sure beats getting up and down a lot. This will save a lot of time.
Thanks, good tip about the diaphragm! Depending on the age of the bike I would also strip the caliper, clean and replace the seals, it makes a world of difference to the 'feel' of the brake system and reduces the chance of seized pistons down the line.
The pliers trick is amazing! Did my back brake in 2min. Waiting for parts and I'll do the front ones. Thanks for the tip!
Also what the other guy said about older Hondas. I've picked up a couple older (2003-2007) but low mileage Shadows. One is in better shape than the other and the other needs brake fluid replacement. Thanks for the vid. .
The service manual on my Silverwing doesn't say anything about replacing the rubber part with a new one. Also, Motion Pro makes a couple of inexpensive brake bleeder tools that allow a one-man brake bleed. I bought one and it works great!
this is gold man thank you so much from a 1982 cx650 honda owner!
Wow. Thanks. It worked great. Was having trouble and watched and thought “dang why didn’t I think of that”? Took about 15 min and brakes are nice and firm. Looking forward to watching more. 2004 VT 1100 Spirit. Ready to ride!👍🏼
Excellent - to hear a pro explain a better method is a blessing - thanks.
pinching brake tube really help significantly thanks
Excellent tips for changing fluids & bleeding to perfection,thank you friend
🙂🙂🙂
I didn't make it through the entire comment section so you may have answered this already but is it going to mess things up with using dot3 instead of dot4? The MC cap on my 85' VF500 says to only use dot3 so that's what I changed it with a few months back. It could be coincidental but my front brake keeps locking up to the point of having to open the bleeder to get it to move. Thanks for taking the time to post these tutorials man. Seems like a lot of people focus on the negative or trivial shit and forget that you're taking your time to try and help others. It's an honorable thing you do and is greatly appreciated.
I had never heard the advice to replace the diaphram every opening. I keep spares for when they have damage, but that is rare; but brake fluid spills are so damaging that your advice makes sense. I use speed bleeders to purge, think of the money I could have saved.
You did a great job. Only thing I did not like is using the pliers on the brake line, the brake lines can break down on the inside when you crimp the lines with plier.
Agreed, especially if they've been sitting with old fluid
Agree, have seen old brake hoses that have been squeezed like that fail internally, and become permanently one way.
Brakes go on but do not go off, or will not go on.
Better off using a bleed pipe with a built in one-way valve.
Otherwise. I find his meticulous approach refreshing,
Thorough and complete instructions, including the WHY for things! Outstanding! Wish you lived near me, I'd have you work on my GL1800!
Cody, I am liking the pliers tip. Looking forward to putting it in to use. Specially on the rear brake master on my 92 F2, which has been a major pain in my ass. Thanks for sharing the good stuff, I really appreciate your knowledge. As well as your time and effort spent on making and freely sharing these videos. Thank you so much.
Thanks for this video. Very well explained. Im glad i saw this before doing my brake bleed. I wouldnt have known about the one use rubber seal. Thanks a bunch
Love your detailed tips and explanations on motorcycle repair... you have been a big help and I look forward to more video tips. Thanks Cody, John
I just got an 04 sabre. 10k miles. Pretty sweet..well cared for. How often do you recommend break fluid flush? Oil changes? Front and rear break replacement? Radiator fluid flush? Fuel filter replacement?
Very Thorough Video , but simply explained. Great Job Man!
Very helpful. Thanks. My question is this: If you suck out the old fluid in the reservoir isn't there a danger of introducing air into the system from the reservoir? Thanks.
Love the video! simple and easy to comprehend. Do you have a video for the rear brake cylinder
Love you man : after I watched your Video until the end : I see that you have solved my problem : you are so smart to do this : because the same problem with me is that the fluid is comming back again and does not make the pressure ... while some people will think that your Idea is bad or stupid : I think that you are an expert because it looks like you have experienced many many Brake problems like me exactly .. thank you Sir .
I have a Honda Shadow spirit vt1100c and I did the brakes yesterday and was getting frustrated because I kept getting air in the line. My recommendation is to not use pliers but instead to wrap a rag around the brake line to protect it then use a VERY tight pair of vise grips. My brakes are now harder than ever thanks!
Thank you for the information!!! It also helps that you are working on something that looks close to what I have. This is my first used bike and this worked just as you said. Let's see what is next for me to repair...
A new gasket every time you break the seal? I bet Honda loves hearing that! I'm glad you told me, after the 20 or 30 times I've had mine off and on, I never knew!
Awesome video with simple step by step instructions. Thanks!
Stainless steel braided lines would you still clamp down on them? I like this technique
The service manual doesnt say to replace the diaphragm, why do you say they are 1 time use?
Any part like that diaphragm that creates a seal will distort over time. If you reinstall the original you greatly increase the likelihood of a leak. A new diaphragm is cheap insurance against the cost of a new paint job on your tank.
You're right; they're fine to reuse unless you can see any deterioration. Trust your service manual.
It's a guide for a mong who don't know what they are looking at so they don't put a shit one back in
If you that fucking stupid don't touch your brakes!!!
And the screws are shit to remove because they aren't Philips heads like most people use they are jis standard
@@reasonsvoice8554
😂👆
Your being short to a question from a year ago. This guy wont see your comment
Mike L others will.
Great video. Straight to the point, not much fluff, thank you.
Your video is full of great tips and to the point, I just suscribed thank you!
I'm surprised that you don't use a Mighty-Vac, vacuum bleeder? Yet, appreciate your presentation and attention to detail.
Great video man! As I don't have that kind of pliers I used grip pliers which works perfectly. Thanks for your video!!
I really like your style! Very detailed oriented. Thank you!!
If you don't have any brake pressure at all, pour a little fluid in the side hole of the master and replace your brake hose. It really works!
Can you explain? A little more detail...what hole? And when was the hose removed?
@@gabrielchaparro1698 The hole where where your brake hose is bolted to the brake master cylinder. the banjo bolt has a hole in it. When you put your brake hose on air gets trapped right there and doesn't allow brakes to work.
Such informative teaching video . Thank you
Ooh, I'm just about to head out to the garage to try your nifty pliers trick! I'm gonna try it with a fuel hose clamp so I can leave it in place. Hopefully it will have enough leverage for the brake hose.
i get rid of the phillips screws and replace them with allen screws,
no stripping, no hammering, no problems..
They are not Phillips. They are JIS. That’s why people always strip them.
duuuuude killing it with these awesome vids! Picked up a beat up ninja 250 the othe dayr, ordered all the parts and will start working on her next week thanks to your vids. keep up the great work man! :D
+David T. Awesome man! Glad they are helpful! Best of luck with the 250!
Cool video but what's your method for rear brakes since there's no cable and the disc is on the opposite side of the bike?
Great Video! Can you use the pliers if you have a steel braided Line?
Thanks for the Pliers advice!! Should make my life so much easier! :-)
So when you release the brake you press the fluid pipe or you hold the pressure on it all the time?
Thks for sharing..
Important to mention… When the piston is in the rest position, the brake fluid will be balanced via The compensation hole. This compensation hole is very small, clean this compensation hole with a very thin wire of copper, if it would clog… you are guaranteed a dragging caliper, this has already happened to me twice!!! with the Honda CBX 1000. Stay Safe.
it works, great hack with plier choke brother! subbed.
one thing to be careful though, the break fluid squirts from the reservoir if squeezed suddenly while bleeding haha but all is good👌🏿
I dislodged the little flap that nests on top of the hole at the bottom, it can go one of two ways. Wonder what's it for?
I have a brake tool kit from the old days, in it is a pair of smooth nosed pliers for clamping the hose to facilitate caliper removal without losing fluid. Similar, just thought I'd say, no good for bleeding
This is really a great video. Is it okay to do this with ABS brakes on a Honda CBF600 P38? I'm bummed the mechanic just did my brakes as I will have to wait a year to get to try it myself.
cheap rubber brake lines you can pinch you can't pinch braided or teflon
And you should not pinch any brake line, it can make micro damage to the hose. That is also the reason you should not demount the caliper and let it just hang on the hose. Always wire it up to the handles.
Good video. Just wondering why not just use the hand held vacuum pump to pull old fluid?
Good cam work, smooth.
One more thing, when I removed the diaphragm, I noticed it can be in two positions, flat or sucked inwards into the reservoir. Does it make a difference if I put the new diaphragm in in the expanded (sucked in) position or should it be flat as shown?
Isn't it better to leave a little bit old brake fluid into the resevoir, then add new fluid and bleed it till you see new fluid coming out of the bleeding hole? Because now you fully emptied the reservoir and there is air going into the brake fluid hole (at the reservoir).
wow thank you very much sir thank you that's the best the proper way I'm gonna change my bike brake fluid right now and that's the best guide video I really appreciate it my God God bless you with all his special blessings thank you very much sir
Just found you channel
Thank you. Your insight is great for me as a newby
Great tip, thanks for the great video and in depth explination!
I like the plier ideal. But I have Braided SS Brake lines on my 1985 Asppy GL1200. So how should I do my brakes.? Maybe a Brake vacuum bleed? Sincerely Roger H. Keep up the great work . Love the videos they really help
Hello sir I just bought a 83 Honda shadow 750 I’m 16 my first real bike I’ve rode a few things a mini bike 300cc mopeds but never something like this and to start it needs some work tanks off rear of the bike is off missing a few parts but I think I can get it back up and running soon
1:52 your problem starts with, not a Philips screw… do you see the tick marks.. they indicate that it’s a Japanese Industrial Standard screw. A little different. The most expensive screw driver I own is a JIS, and it’s a dream to use. It fits the screw head so tight they stick right to the end of the driver… I would recommend investing in a JIS driver….
Awesome vid. What is that little piece of metal, where the fluid exits the reservoir? Some kinda baffle. Is it needed?
Does this work on systems where there are two calipers connected to one master cylinder? I just need two hoses connected to both bleeder ports and draining into the waste bottle, right?
New screws available on ebay for cylinder cap, break fluid turns rusty via roasting when it reaches 170 Celcius. Rust color is not from rust. Organic matrial like poly glycol can burn at high temperatures.
+Mahadev I have access to hundreds of these cap screws but thanks for the info!
+Mahadev I have access to hundreds of these cap screws but thanks for the info!
hi I have a problem with the front brake on my Honda vt750DC no matter how many times I bleed the front brake the lever never seems to gain any resistance can you help?
That pliers use is genius. I don't know why I've never thought of that before. ;
Great! Hope it works for you!
No need to over-torque screw on the reservoirs. Btw, get a JIS screwdriver - then no fighting. Its NOT a Phillips head. Subtle tip difference but makes all the difference in the world. Also vacuum blenders are cheap ($30) and a HUGE time saver. They also work much better. I couldn't bleed my hydraulic clutch without it.
Great video and advice, thanks!
I've got a 94' VT1100 and want to change the bars.. currently the master cylinder has a 45° mounting angle due to the buckhorn style bars... if i swap them out and mount them on straight bars, will they function ok as long as i clean/fill/bleed with them straight? If not... any advice on which master cylinder to swap it for? Thanks
Is it the same process with ABS system?
I just bought a goldwing yesterday and attempted to do the brake fluid and it went really bad. Not devastating, but had to give up after i couldn't get any fluid out. I think your video makes it much clearer what I need to do. Second, and i know this is a dumb question, but how, for the love of God, do you get the center kick stand down to keep it level? I tried throwing all my weight onto it while lifting the bike and could barely budge it. Is there a trick i'm missing?
Ah! The center stand. The motion is all downward.. make sure the front wheel is dead straight, get a solid part of your foot on the stand and stand up while pulling up with your right shoulder. No yanking backwards. Your left arm is not doing any of the pulling. It just there to keep the wheel straight. Good luck!
TheMotorcycleMD you're awesome, thanks for the reply... I'll give it another shot. I think I was pulling backwards with both arms, and then would get nervous once it was up. Then I dropped it once too, so that was awesome. Feels impossible, but I know many this seem that way till you figure it out. I think my driveway might also be slightly sloped across which added to my difficulty
TheMotorcycleMD wow.. Followed your advice and that was stupid easy. Can't believe I couldn't do it before, and that I stopped the stupid thing once. Now I can try the brake fluid again!
Nice work! Great video!
Thank you ‼‼ (2017 honda rebel.300)
Had to drill out the 2 screws on my resevoir. Any idea what size they are?
I hope you'll see this and help me out. I've got an 82 nighthawk 650 with brake and clutch master reservoirs with rotten leaking sight glasses. Have you done a video on rebuilding masters with replacing the sight glasses. Buying new masters are out of the question, bike shop quoted $1100.00 each for new.
You rock dude. Love your information on this subject.
Excellent video all detiles covered, to the point
My 84 Honda nighthawk says dot 3 or 4. What’s the difference between the two?
nice video, just wish you had it done on the Goldwing behind you, that's my next job, and no video about it.
i just bled the front brakes on my 05 Honda CBR600rr...this was the first time ever doing this, i bought some bleeder hand pump kit, watched a couple videos on it, then tried it out just now and its was useless... while it would suck the fluid out, it created so many of its own air bubbles i couldn't tell what the fk was going on so i ended up doing it manually, with just a hose, small jar and the 8mil wrench! i got all the fluid out and replaced, cap back on but idk if i have enough fluid in the reservoir...at first i over filled it and it spewed out everywhere when i put the seals and cover back on so then i used a small dropper and sucked some fluid out... now it's about half way on the little round window thing...is this good or should i add some more?! ps- what a damned mess AND a pain in the ass to do on a sportbike because the windscreen and everything else gets right in the way! lol 😂😊
Very helpful information. Thanks you.
Mechanic stripped one Phillips head and I stripped the other. Drilled them out by getting the screw heads off. Not too bad a job.